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I used a pixi charging back case (5.99usd) and touchstone charging base (9.99usd) to create this mod. You can find them on clearance at radioshack!
Can be made for other devices: ipods, iphones, bluetooth headset, etc...
Comment plz.
-Carnivore
Maybe some photos and more descriptions?
Im curious how this looks/working.
sure interesting, and most valuable as a proof-of-concept realization, even if I'de never go out with a setup like that
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Nice
Yeah it looks nice but i don't think anybody is siriously going to use this do you??
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Anyways nice work. Good that people are trying to improve the phones usability.
keesmathot said:
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
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oh I bet he's had a lot of fun doing it That alone is more than enough of a reason
I tried doing something like this a little while back, the connectors next to the sim card can be used for charging which would make the whole thing much nicer and easier, it worked good, but the HD2 metal door blocked the signal so it would not charge, so I used it with a sillicon case on top, it was good but not the best, then I tried to hard wire it inside, opened the HD2, it got few dust specs behind the LCD from opening, I tried blowing them away and the whole screen died, well it was a sad story which eventually ended up on ebay, and I had to get a different one I WILL NOT TRY THIS AGAIN, i hope.
thats good of you to try. hope you find a compatible plastic back for it or some other solution.
ill be looking forward to your progress on this as i have a palm pre and an extra touchstone charger.
RedWave31 said:
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
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Click to collapse
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Carnivore9 said:
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
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they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
lude219 said:
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
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I actually was fooling around with a microusb charging head and found that if you ground one of the data wires, the navpanel will show up. I was a little confused at first since I've never used it before then figured out it was a hidden feature.
So my EVO has slowly developed a loose USB port over time. It got to the point I could only charge and not use USB mass storage.
So I fixed it. It turns out that pocket lint slowly got compacted over time from being in my pocket and pushing the USB jack into the port. I got in there with a pick (from my lock pick set, another hobby) and a razor blade (To get on the other side of the port) and sure enough, the USB port is now working just like it used to.
So, there wasn't a hardware failure of any kind.... just pocket lint.
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem with the usb port, you wouldn't happen to have taken pictures of the process would you? I'm pretty bad with fixing things myself. Do you think you could explain this to me with a little more detail?? Thanks
Sent from my dope fly fresh EVO
I can try to explain it, but I don't have any pictures of the process.
There wasn't anything wrong with the connectors on the phone, it was just that so much crude got compacted in the backside of the port that the jack couldn't be pushed in all the way to make a connection.
I got a small piece of metal (a lock pick) that is maybe 1/8" or 1/16" of an inch thick and started to dig at the backside of the port. This is the side closest to the battery. I grabbed the pieces I could with the pick, and used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the more stubborn pieces after I loosened them with the pick.
The other side (the side not housing the connections and closest to the screen) is very tight to the USB housing. I slipped a razor in that space and managed to get out the remaining crude, which was very little compared to the opposite side.
Took maybe 5 minutes of poking around, and went from the jack falling out if I even slightly moved the phone to getting a nice click when I insert the jack.
I don't know how prone to damage those connectors on the phone are, but I wasn't exactly gentle at one point with the razor and it survived. I was going to get the phone replaced anyways so it was a low risk venture for me.
Alright, I finally got my hands on an Atrix (used). Super excited great price. I get it home and realize the audio jack doesnt work!! Well after messing around with it I find it works intermittently. If its working and I tap the phone it stops working. So I figured I probably had a bad solder or broken connection. It was actually corrosion.
To verify that your problem is in fact hardware related go to settings>sound>media audio effects. You will see 'Wired Stereo Devices' and 'Phone Speaker'. If you plug headphones into the audio jack on your atrix you should the word 'connected' immediately pop up under 'Wired Stereo Devices'. If you do not and the the word 'connected' stays under 'Phone Speaker' then you probably have this problem.
You will need to opened up your phone by removing the 8 (i think) T5 screws from the back of your phone (remove the back cover, battery, sim and sd card first!)
Then carefully separate the back plastic piece from the face of the phone. Start at the bottom where there is a little latch you need to free with a small straight blade screw driver or electronics tool. Carefully work them apart and your phone should look like the pics below.
THe headphone jack stays with the backplate and the connections to the board stay with the screen part of the phone.
I first used a q-tip with a small amount of alcohol to clean the connectors on both parts. Then I used some fine sand paper. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK OFF OR OVER bend the leads on the input side. Once those are clean you can add a small amount of dielectric grease to the connection surfaces to prevent corrosion from happening again. You may also want to bend out the connection leads slightly so they get a better connection. The circuit board side on my phone had warped away from the leads. Put it back together and you should be in business. I just repaired mine and it seems to work great.
Very ballsy!
Good work!
Interesting, I wonder what the previous owner got on it to corrode it D:
tight686 said:
Very ballsy!
Good work!
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Its a very simple dis-assembly. If you don't yank the plastic apart, not much will go wrong.
seargent007 said:
Interesting, I wonder what the previous owner got on it to corrode it D:
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I'd rather not speculate.
You've been thanked for the first time. Good stuff, thanks for the information.
Semseddin said:
You've been thanked for the first time. Good stuff, thanks for the information.
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No problem. I would like to report that my Atrix provided me with great output from the headphone jack all day today! Its working awesome.
I had the same issue and thank you for your post. BTW I got my phone brand new.
Contributing my own experience, since this thread popped up when I was searching for help. My Atrix 4g headphone jack stopped working completely 2 days ago. I tried 3 different sets of headphones (all confirmed to be working on other devices) to no avail. I even uninstalled some recently updated apps like TuneIn Radio Pro to no avail.
So, after reading this thread and confirming the phone is not recognizing the jack being plugged, I concluded that it is a physical obstruction. With a flashlight I carefully (one eye shut) peeked around the headphone jack hole itself. I could see there was some lint in there at the very bottom. Next I took a hairpin, using pliers, created a tiny "L" at the end of it...ya you know where this is going.... Went fishing at the bottom of the hole and ever so gently removed a STRIP OF LINT!! It was about 1/4 inch long, but guess what? After removal and trying headphones EUREKA, success! The headphones are working as expected.
Just offering this as another root cause for headphone jack not working. Be aware of lint! And don't mess up your phone by fishing too hard in there
Thanks
Thank you for the pictures and heads up.
jaymondus said:
Just offering this as another root cause for headphone jack not working. Be aware of lint! And don't mess up your phone by fishing too hard in there
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Thanks!! That was exactly my problem. Headphones are working again..
I think I'll be investing in a "headphone proctector" such as the one here: http://www.radtech.us/Products/Portectorz.aspx#
Again, thanks for the heads up.
That was my problem too! Just stopped working today and I was just going out for my run.. quick search found this thread.
Used a paper clip and got a HUGE piece of lint out! Reps!
My Bluetooth headset sounds fine, but when I have something plugged into my Atrix's headphone jack it clicks and pops. It does recognize that something is plugged into the headphone jack though. I looked and there isn't lint or anything in the jack. Is there a chance I could have some mild corrosion?
Thanks jaymondus & slowjett. I thought my phone had a hardware issue and had to be taken for service. Thankfully, the lint was the problem in my case too. I easily removed it using a long pin. After this, I also carefully used a vaccum cleaner to remove any left over tiny lint traces inside the heaphone port.
Thank you
jaymondus said:
Contributing my own experience, since this thread popped up when I was searching for help. My Atrix 4g headphone jack stopped working completely 2 days ago. I tried 3 different sets of headphones (all confirmed to be working on other devices) to no avail. I even uninstalled some recently updated apps like TuneIn Radio Pro to no avail.
So, after reading this thread and confirming the phone is not recognizing the jack being plugged, I concluded that it is a physical obstruction. With a flashlight I carefully (one eye shut) peeked around the headphone jack hole itself. I could see there was some lint in there at the very bottom. Next I took a hairpin, using pliers, created a tiny "L" at the end of it...ya you know where this is going.... Went fishing at the bottom of the hole and ever so gently removed a STRIP OF LINT!! It was about 1/4 inch long, but guess what? After removal and trying headphones EUREKA, success! The headphones are working as expected.
Just offering this as another root cause for headphone jack not working. Be aware of lint! And don't mess up your phone by fishing too hard in there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did this, and found an obscene amount of lint. Thanks, so much!
yup, did this fix and it worked perfectly. thanks for the heads up. also, bending the clips a bit helps as well.
Thanks for the help, unfortunately I wasn't able to get the headphone jack working on my atrix. I think my problem is slightly different though, I dropped the phone with headphones in and it landed right on the top such that it pushed the headphones even further down into the jack. Ever since then it only detects the headphones if I push on them and hold them down, as soon as I let go it goes back to playing through speakers.
I guess I'll just have to live with not being able to use headphones until I get a new phone
This is exactly why the headphone jack is not actually soldered to the MBO. First, it is much more likely to spare the MBO any damage, and second, makes for very easy replacement, to the point where you can just order the new part and do it at home.
The headphone jack itself is a separate part that is held in place with some adhesive tape. If you disassemble as in the op and pull it out you can easily replace it. I swapped mine out in about 5 minutes the other day.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
beatphreek said:
The headphone jack itself is a separate part that is held in place with some adhesive tape. If you disassemble as in the op and pull it out you can easily replace it. I swapped mine out in about 5 minutes the other day.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
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Click to collapse
Good to know, I guess I'll find somewhere to order a new jack from then.
Who would wonder that so much time after this topic would still be useful. Yes, I *still* keep and use my Atrix, it is my favourite phone from all time, even though I have had two newer models after it.
These days I decided that the Atrix would be a nice MP3 Player to use in the gym, but when I plugged the wired earphones in the jack guess what? It was fortunate that I was at home and not in the gym when I realized that the sound was *not* coming from the earphones.
So, googling for a solution I found this topic. After reading the first post I unassembled, cleaned and reassembled it twice. After each try it worked for a bit but became faulty really soon again. Then I decided to read on, and read the posts about the lint inside the phone jack. That was all my problem since the beginning, which I solved with an unfolded paper clip.
Now my Atrix is a MP3 player, a desk clock together with the dock, and a gaming handheld for emulators when attached to my icontrolpad. Thanks for everyone that posted here.
Germano
Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.
Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
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I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!
hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.
Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?
from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.
Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
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I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
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May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
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Click to collapse
Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?
Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.
As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.
At first my Fire wouldn't charge unless it was placed in a particular way, then it stopped altogether. I pronounced it dead, and left it stowed away for a few months, but then decided to try and fix it. I think this guide may be useful for anyone who wants to fix a kindle with dead charging. Note that you may damage your kindle in the process so if you are still under warranty, use it.
1. Take off the back cover. You may need to use a guitar pick or something similar.
2. Take off the two battery leads. One has a locking mechanism which needs to be lifted before the ribbon cable can be taken out.
3. Take out all screws connected motherboard to rest of device. There are connections underneath the board so be careful when lifting it.
4. When I lifted it, I found the USB connector had broken off the entire board (if it was even attached in the first place) and this was obviously causing the problems, as the USB connector could now only connect to the motherboard if pressure was applied so that it was being held on somehow by it. To fix this, I could have tried to solder the tiny USB connections onto the board, but instead I used a different way which is working perfectly for many weeks now.
5. Get a rubber band and tie a not in it numerous times until the knot is about 3-4mm thick. Cut off remaining rubber band and superglue the knot onto the bottom side of the USB connector (the side that faces the display when assembled). Then insert the USB connector into it's little holder under the board, with the rubber band firm beneath it and replace the motherboard. Redo all the screws, reconnect any connectors you've disconnected (you may have had to disconnect some to remove/move the motherboard - always undo battery cables before you work on the innards of any device).
6. If you've done this correctly, the round rubber band knot should press the USB connector continuously on to the board. Test using your stock charger before you put it back together because the back cover is pretty hard to get off.
7. Replace the back cover and enjoy!
Notes: My rubber band knot was actually a little too large, which meant that to connect the USB plug I had to press the kindle together to insert the cable, but charging is reliable and working so far, so I'm happy about that.
How about using E-Tape instead of a rubber band?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app
The reason I used rubber band was because it pushed the connector against the severed contacts on the board. I doubt that simply sticking it on with any sort of tape would work as effectively.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app
Do you know how to solder? I fixed mine that way.
Sent from my kindle fire
Anthony96922 said:
Do you know how to solder? I fixed mine that way.
Sent from my kindle fire
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Click to collapse
Yes, but I am away from home at the moment so I didn't have access to one.
Thanks for posting this at this time! I am currently doing an engineering fair and bought a soldering iron for it. I will try the rubber band way and then try solder if it doesn't work. Thanks again!
Vlasp said:
Thanks for posting this at this time! I am currently doing an engineering fair and bought a soldering iron for it. I will try the rubber band way and then try solder if it doesn't work. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem! Glad to be a help
Can you take a picture?
So, I have this kfire that didn't charge very well and the usb connection with the PC needed a lot of fiddling around, when I got an n7 charger it charged perfectly, maybe the kfire charger is defective.
Ill try to get a picture later.
Sometimes the charger is the problem so make sure you check that first before you open up your fire.
Sent from my nuclear powered toaster.
jji7skyline said:
Ill try to get a picture later.
Sometimes the charger is the problem so make sure you check that first before you open up your fire.
Sent from my nuclear powered toaster.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attempting this now. Do you have any pictures?
Bump for noobs and others.
Can you post a picture of the rubber band and that other think together I don't get what your saying are you saying tie the rubber band it is that measurement you told is to be and but it under that other thing so it pushes against the motherboard and forces it to be there can you please explain that part a little more explaining please thanks