Database Users

charge exec with an ipod charger?

I have a mini usb lead with me but not the exec charger. Can I just plug this into an IPOD or Blackberry charger and will this charge it?

I think you can without problem...
However, there is a small issue:
The usb standard specifies a maximum 500mA current for the usb supply (over 5V), but to charge the Universal in a reasonable amount of time more is necessary (The supplied one is 1A)
I succesfully charged the battery using a motorola psu, and in the same way you can charge it leaving it attached to the PC usb port.
I am pretty sure there is no risk for the phone but it is possible to overload the power supply - you better check it does not run too hot. Also, put the phone in flight mode and turn it off, to minimize the amount of total power used

I think you can without problem...
However, there is a small issue:
The usb standard specifies a maximum 500mA current for the usb supply (And 5V), but to charge the Universal in a reasonable amount of time more is necessary - The supplied one is 1A - I succesfully charged the battery using a motorola psu.
I am pretty sure there is no risk for the phone but it is possible to uverload the power supply - you better check it does not run too hot. Also, put the phone in flight mode and turn it off, to minimize the amount of total power used

ciaranfo said:
I have a mini usb lead with me but not the exec charger. Can I just plug this into an IPOD or Blackberry charger and will this charge it?
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Click to collapse
Not sure which ipod charger you talking about, personally i use the original one from apple (white with the USB plug) and it wks fine. The original charger for universal also has the same current rating of 1A @ 5V so I guess it shouldn't overload it.

Yes, I charge my Universal with a BlackBerry charger from time-to-time.
Keep in mind what TheDayOfCondor said about the original charger putting out 1 amp while the BlackBerry charger is only rated for 0.5 although I haven't had any issues.

right, that's good to know. thanks.

how to enable high power usb charge

anyone knows?

possibly need to write a custom oem_misc.dll. if some one can, then we can have TV out too ...

i heard it is just a reg change

anyone knows pls?

Don't know the reg change in this case, but guess won't really work.
For instance, for enabling FM radio without headset, changing the headset state in reg won't work. I would be happy to be proven wrong though

leobox1 said:
anyone knows pls?
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Click to collapse
Hi leobox1,
Not sure that there is a way to enable this. Charge rate is determined by battery voltage and available current from the charger, not by software (other than the simple battery management chip in the battery). So if your battery is low and you have high power USB connection, it will take as much charge transfer as the battery will accept, provided the supply voltage can keep up. I don't think that the charger circuit can recognise the difference between low power USB, high power USB, or charger USB connection.

mike.waters said:
Hi leobox1,
Charge rate is determined by battery voltage and available current from the charger, not by software .... I don't think that the charger circuit can recognise the difference between low power USB, high power USB, or charger USB connection.
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Click to collapse
I don't think so. When HD is on, the current consumed at a given battery level of charge for a given (same) voltage is higher with wall charger than computer USB. Don't have the values that I measured once... But this doesn't seem to be the case when HD is switched off.
So there has to be some kind of monitoring going on by the CPU.

The charger has the two data pins connected together so the handset knows it is receiving power from the charger and not a USB port. The device will then charge with as much power as the charger will allow, up to 1000mA

The amount of USB power definately changes the speed at which this recharges. I purchased a 3amp car charger and it will charge my Touch HD in half the time it charges from the wall charger. My laptop puts out a small USB power supply and it take all day to charge my phone. My old Pocket PC had the selection for fast or slow charge, this one seems to handle it on it's own.

hmm so in short it is beyond our control?

leobox1 said:
hmm so in short it is beyond our control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In short - Yes

backdoc94 said:
I purchased a 3amp car charger and it will charge my Touch HD in half the time it charges from the wall charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3 Amps? Are you sure, I don't know if I would want to connect my Touch HD to a 3A supply. Where did you buy it from?

Picked it up from ebay. It works really well, no overheating. The phone only takes what it needs, the charge is controlled by the phone not the charger.

Oh, I know the phone will only pull the power it wants, that is not the issue. A 3 amp power supply would cost quite a bit if it was a decent regulated one, and I would not use anything but a regulated power supply.
So I was guessing you were using a 3A unregulated supply. Which is something I would be very wary of, the risk of a voltage spike is going to be higher than with a lower amperage.

the only reason that the phone charges faster using the htc charger is so that people like us spend more money on official htc accessories.
its not just htc that do this.
why do you even think they have this extusb instead of a normal usb port?
a normal usb port on a pc is rated to give out 500mA (half an amp) of current.
that doesnt mean that a normal usb socket cant accept more than that though. just think back to the old htc devices that charged much faster.
wake up guys

http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/
I think theres something interesting there

chrisque1 said:
http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/
I think theres something interesting there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what is it for?

Faster USB Charging?

I remember on my WinMo phones there was a program to speed up the charging through a USB port. Anyone know of a similar app, hack, what have you for our Heros?

all that ever got me was an overheated phone. and defective batteries

Negrito said:
I remember on my WinMo phones there was a program to speed up the charging through a USB port. Anyone know of a similar app, hack, what have you for our Heros?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you could try a wireless charger, or use the normal wall charger or get a 3rd party battery.
I use a 3rd party battery, and my phone charges from Dead, to full in under 2 hours. i think my brand battery is a radioshack one but i dont remember, and im too lazy to look lol

If the phone detects that it's hooked to a USB port, it'll charge more slowly because the typical computer port will only output 500 mA. A wall charger typically does a full amp.

codelockdown said:
you could try a wireless charger, or use the normal wall charger or get a 3rd party battery.
I use a 3rd party battery, and my phone charges from Dead, to full in under 2 hours. i think my brand battery is a radioshack one but i dont remember, and im too lazy to look lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No thank you, i dont need something else to carry around. I work next to a computer. it just sucks that if my phone is near dead in the am when i arrive to work it will have to be tethered to the computer most of the day to fully recharge.
kynetx said:
If the phone detects that it's hooked to a USB port, it'll charge more slowly because the typical computer port will only output 500 mA. A wall charger typically does a full amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, thank you. i know. that's why i am asking for a program to trick the device into believing its always the wall charger while its plugged into anything with that program running.

Negrito said:
yes, thank you. i know. that's why i am asking for a program to trick the device into believing its always the wall charger while its plugged into anything with that program running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no point in "tricking" the device to think it's the wall charger because what you want is the phone to charge up, not to beleive it's charged up when it's not. The usb port will not output more than 500mA. The phone will only charge as fast as 500mA will get you, no matter what tricks we try to pull on them.

daveli said:
There is no point in "tricking" the device to think it's the wall charger because what you want is the phone to charge up, not to beleive it's charged up when it's not. The usb port will not output more than 500mA. The phone will only charge as fast as 500mA will get you, no matter what tricks we try to pull on them.
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Click to collapse
Actually, most USB 2.0 ports can unofficially support up to 1000mA (which is indeed out of spec), with the only limitation from the device itself which when in spec will not draw more than 500mA. This is why no2chem's Fastcharge worked on WinMo phones, by increasing the maximum limit on the device.

Rootwind said:
Actually, most USB 2.0 ports can unofficially support up to 1000mA (which is indeed out of spec), with the only limitation from the device itself which when in spec will not draw more than 500mA. This is why no2chem's Fastcharge worked on WinMo phones, by increasing the maximum limit on the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification, It's good to learn something new every day

Rootwind said:
Actually, most USB 2.0 ports can unofficially support up to 1000mA (which is indeed out of spec), with the only limitation from the device itself which when in spec will not draw more than 500mA. This is why no2chem's Fastcharge worked on WinMo phones, by increasing the maximum limit on the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for this post, i couldnt remember no2chem's nick to save my life. I wonder how he feels about dev in android.

daveli said:
There is no point in "tricking" the device to think it's the wall charger because what you want is the phone to charge up, not to beleive it's charged up when it's not. The usb port will not output more than 500mA. The phone will only charge as fast as 500mA will get you, no matter what tricks we try to pull on them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know where you're coming from, but the phone will indeed pull more current when it detects it's on a wall charger. I specifically remember seeing it in the manual.

Has anybody heard anything new on this matter, I really hate not being able to charge at 1A from a computer USB anymore. 500mA is pretty much useless, especially in constant usage, it pretty much just maintains the current %.

from less than 10% to 100% in about 30 minutes when plugged into the wall...turn your phone off while charging!! itll charge so much faster!!

This was specifically about usb....

I seem to remember hearing you can tweak some usb wires (I guess remove the data pins) so the phone thinks it's on AC but I'd want to have connectivity as well as the swift charging. Otherwise I'd have to have two cords on me, though I wonder if the phone charges "AC speed" while off (since there's no mind to talk to the PC's OS)

Negrito said:
I remember on my WinMo phones there was a program to speed up the charging through a USB port. Anyone know of a similar app, hack, what have you for our Heros?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup, i remember that too, it was called fast charge.

iviyth0s said:
I seem to remember hearing you can tweak some usb wires (I guess remove the data pins) so the phone thinks it's on AC but I'd want to have connectivity as well as the swift charging. Otherwise I'd have to have two cords on me, though I wonder if the phone charges "AC speed" while off (since there's no mind to talk to the PC's OS)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this does't work, as I have a cable with no data pins (it's a cheapy charge cable only) and it's still slow on a pc to charge.

Get a USB 3.0 port.

swears11 said:
Get a USB 3.0 port.
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Click to collapse
ummm... you mean you would have to buy a whole new mobo with usb3.0 support.

I have a belkin travel power surge protector with 3 outlets and 2 usb ports on it. The phone, when plugged into it, doesn't detect that it is plugged into AC power and just charges at USB speeds. Anybody know why? Will it only charge at AC speed if it detects the HTC supplied Ac adapter?

danaff37 said:
I know this does't work, as I have a cable with no data pins (it's a cheapy charge cable only) and it's still slow on a pc to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a cheapy cable too and that might be why it's still slow. I don't use the cable anymore because my TP used to charge at like 200mAh with it.
swears11 said:
Get a USB 3.0 port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But the problem here is with the software not hardware lol, all someone has to do is change the value of "when connected to computer: Charge 1A" instead of "when connected to computer: Charge 0.5A" (simplified of course)
gunnyman said:
I have a belkin travel power surge protector with 3 outlets and 2 usb ports on it. The phone, when plugged into it, doesn't detect that it is plugged into AC poer and just charges at USB speeds. Anybody know why? Will it only charge at AC speed if it detects the HTC supplied Ac adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because it was a stupid idea to ever limit the charge speed. lol
If only I knew how to program or to edit code, I'd so fix this for all of us >_<

[Tut] Make car charger behave as "charger" instead of "computer"

As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.

http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg

Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post

Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?

pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
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Click to collapse
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+

Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.

samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.

kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.

"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.

I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable

pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it

So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!

atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone

PC USB charging a dead-battery Atrix.. Impossible?

I woke up this morning and the battery of my Atrix was completely dead. Since I was in a hurry to get to work I thought I'm going to charge using the computer in my office with the supplied USB cable.
It appears that the phone won't charge from 0% turned off! I had to borrow a Blackberry wall charger from a college and jump start the Atrix before plugging it to my computer's USB and start charging.
My iPhone 3GS would come back to life if plugged to the USB port after a complete discharge.
Is there a solution for the Atrix? Are there other android devices you know of with the same issue?
Thank you

my milestone also have this prob

The moto wall chargers run at 800+ma. This is more than the usual ~400-600ma that other chargers run at. Computer USB ports only supply 500ma MAX. The atrix doesn't seem to like anything under ~600ma and prefers 800-1000ma for some weird reason.
If you've got a well powered USB port, it will charge the phone. If it's underpowered, the phone won't even take the charge.
Yes, from a dead batt, the phone wont even wake up the charge circuit for anything under 600ma. I've experienced it as well.

Thank you. What about USB 3.0? I have that in my home PC. But it still sucks how I can't wake up the phone if the battery completely drained with all the USB around me at work or wherever when a wall-charger is not within reach.
Shouldn't the phone preserve the last drops of the battery before shutting down so it allows us time to start it up again and charge by USB 2.0?
I think it wouldn't hurt if Motorola made it shutoff at like 2% allowing us to charge the device and get it up using USB 2.0. Or maybe a dev can get around it as an optional tweak for users?!
That also made me think of something else. Would the alarm go off if the battery completely died while you were asleep? I know iphone, Nokia and probably many other smartphones does that (preserving last drops for this purpose).

all usb has the same voltage specs, 3.0 ports wont charge better than 2.0 ports on the same system, the only thing that will make a difference is the build quality of the hardware and the voltage regulation from the power management.
A powered usb hub would be your best bet if you can't get to a moto charger

diedemus said:
all usb has the same voltage specs, 3.0 ports wont charge better than 2.0 ports on the same system, the only thing that will make a difference is the build quality of the hardware and the voltage regulation from the power management.
A powered usb hub would be your best bet if you can't get to a moto charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it's better to bring up this thread instead of opening a new one since I've been investigating the same issue.
We all know that Android phones and widgets especially can drain the battery unexpectedly.
I PM'ed kennethpenn if there's a way to automate a shutdown when the battery reaches a certain level so it can charge and wake up connected to a computer USB 2.0 port (As in if it can be implemented in his ROM). Kenneth replied that he's not sure, and I've been looking for an app that can do that.
Now before we go more on that, I wish to have your opinion on how important you think it is to sacrifice the last little drops of the battery in favor of being to charge/wake up your devices when you're on the go and may not have access to wall charger?
If there's an app that can allow it then I'm welling to do the tests and find the sweet spot of when to shutdown and if it would actually charge to wake up.
Thank you

I had the same problem yesterday, I only have the USB cord with me and I thought my phone was dead for real or defective. Thanks god for XDA ... The user manual did not say anything about computer usb power not being powerfull enough.
CyberPunk7t9, there is (a few) threads dedicated to improving Atrix battery life full of usefull tricks. I did not try it yet, but SetCPU might be of a great help too.

Remeber, the Atrix requires the Motorola usb drivers to be installed to charge the phone off a port. If the phone is off, your computer is not reconigizing that it was plugged in, so the drivers do not start. *I could be wrong* Happen to me last night though

it's a hardware issue on the computer side. without the moto drivers there telling the USB port to up the current coming out, your phone won't charge on it. most computer-based USB ports do not run high current for power purposes unless enabled. it cannot be solved with an app and mandating a shutdown at 2% is most likely going to cause more problems than solve. the solution is to not run your battery down, honestly. you shouldn't be for LiPo batteries anyway.
diedemus said:
all usb has the same voltage specs, 3.0 ports wont charge better than 2.0 ports on the same system, the only thing that will make a difference is the build quality of the hardware and the voltage regulation from the power management
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not voltage that matters, it's current.

I have a gigabyte board which has 'rapid charge' technology, meaning it supplies extra amperage to the usb ports...my battery was close to dying when I saw this thread so as a test I let it completely die and then I tried charging from usb.
Result: It worked.
I still don't get as quick of a charge from USB as I do from the wall but at least there is enough amperage to charge from a completely dead state.

diedemus said:
all usb has the same voltage specs, 3.0 ports wont charge better than 2.0 ports on the same system, the only thing that will make a difference is the build quality of the hardware and the voltage regulation from the power management.
A powered usb hub would be your best bet if you can't get to a moto charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get your facts straight!..............USB 3.0 IS a powered USB port!
USB 3.0 will charge more devices, quicker
Not only will USB 3.0 cables facilitate faster transfer speeds, but they’ll carry more power, too. The USB-IF recognizes the growing number of portable devices that charge via USB (cellphones, MP3 players, digital cameras), and have bumped the power output from about 100miliamps to 900 milliamps. That means not only will you be able to power more than 4 devices from a single hub, but the increase current will let you charge up heftier hardware as well.
Maximum PC
<edit> Also, my Atrix charges fine off the 3.0 ports on my HP laptop.

dcarpenter85 said:
I have a gigabyte board which has 'rapid charge' technology, meaning it supplies extra amperage to the usb ports...my battery was close to dying when I saw this thread so as a test I let it completely die and then I tried charging from usb.
Result: It worked.
I still don't get as quick of a charge from USB as I do from the wall but at least there is enough amperage to charge from a completely dead state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a gigabyte UD7 in my PC. I wanted to use the rapid charge feature for a while. Still planned. Also the On/Off Charge feature to charge the iphone/ipod while the computer is turned off. I will probably assign some time to test those tomorrow.

CaelanT said:
Get your facts straight!..............USB 3.0 IS a powered USB port!
USB 3.0 will charge more devices, quicker
Not only will USB 3.0 cables facilitate faster transfer speeds, but they’ll carry more power, too. The USB-IF recognizes the growing number of portable devices that charge via USB (cellphones, MP3 players, digital cameras), and have bumped the power output from about 100miliamps to 900 milliamps. That means not only will you be able to power more than 4 devices from a single hub, but the increase current will let you charge up heftier hardware as well.
Maximum PC
<edit> Also, my Atrix charges fine off the 3.0 ports on my HP laptop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have USB 3.0 in my PC too. But as someone stated here, USB 3.0 does not provide more voltage than USB 2.0. Just more consistency I think.
But what matters, Can any of those solutions charge and start a completely dead Atrix?
Thank you for participating guys.

USB ports can only source 100mA unless the host and client agree to a higher current. If as mentioned the Atrix needs more then this to wake-up the phone with a dead battery then it can never request the higher current. This is also why the Moto drivers need to be installed to get the higher current.

CyberPunk7t9 said:
I have USB 3.0 in my PC too. But as someone stated here, USB 3.0 does not provide more voltage than USB 2.0. Just more consistency I think.
But what matters, Can any of those solutions charge and start a completely dead Atrix?
Thank you for participating guys.
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you need a port or power source that will supply enough current to the phone. period. if your computer's ports don't do it, it won't work. go find a higher amp USB port.

Maybe try the usb 2 to 1 cable? So you plug it into 2 usb ports and than into the atrix

CaelanT said:
Not only will USB 3.0 cables facilitate faster transfer speeds, but they’ll carry more power, too. The USB-IF recognizes the growing number of portable devices that charge via USB (cellphones, MP3 players, digital cameras), and have bumped the power output from about 100miliamps to 900 milliamps.
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Actually USB 2.0 can supply 500 mA, but as someone said to get more than 100 mA, the host and device have to 'negotiate' which I think means driver support of some kind.
I have noticed in Device Manager says that my SGS plugged into my laptop as a mass storage device is only taking 100 mA, but it doesn't charge much slower than it does from a wall charger (which is actually pretty slow, almost 3 hrs for a full charge). Still if I do the math to charge 1500 mAh at 3.7V with 5v in 3 hours would take about 370 mA (assuming 100% efficiency, so the actual current draw must be higher).
If anyone knows a more accurate way of determining the current a USB port is supplying, since Device Manager seems to be wrong, that would be interesting information.
What's interesting here is that at 0% the device isn't even on and can't power up to negotiate a higher current draw. If it can't turn on with 100 mA from the charging port it's stuck, which I suspect is the problem here with the Atrix.

USB 3.0 has the potential to charge at 900mah but yes it’s still 5vdc, the phone will not pull more than 500mah unless it detects the data lines are bridged. This is a safety feature so it doesn't blow your usb2.0 ports as the phone wasn’t built with usb 3.0 spec in mind. If you have a 3.0 usb port you can make a fast charge cable with the data lines cut and bridged, make sure you cut them and they aren't still connected to the host side or you might kill your port.

callen81 said:
USB 3.0 has the potential to charge at 900mah but yes it’s still 5vdc, the phone will not pull more than 500mah unless it detects the data lines are bridged. This is a safety feature so it doesn't blow your usb2.0 ports as the phone wasn’t built with usb 3.0 spec in mind. If you have a 3.0 usb port you can make a fast charge cable with the data lines cut and bridged, make sure you cut them and they aren't still connected to the host side or you might kill your port.
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mA, not mAh

dLo GSR said:
mA, not mAh
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I'm so used to talking about batteries I guess I left the "h"ours in, haha.