Database Users

BIG PROBLEM White screen

My screen has gone completely white.... I bought the phone online from an "authorized dealer" who won't reply to me now. I live in the US and O2 does not appear to have any US contact info... Am i screwed on this expensive phone i bought 6 months ago?
Anyone had experience with this?
S

stuart.myers said:
My screen has gone completely white.... I bought the phone online from an "authorized dealer" who won't reply to me now. I live in the US and O2 does not appear to have any US contact info... Am i screwed on this expensive phone i bought 6 months ago?
Anyone had experience with this?
S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess you already tried hard reset?.
Can you get to bootloader mode?.

Tried hard resets, and getting to bootloader mode, i think this is a malfunction with the actual device, I just need to find out how to get in touch with o2 support internationally, i was wondering if someone on here may have had this problem too.
Thanks.

white screen - connector loose?
I too have this problem - but if I twist the screen away from the keyboard I get the display back. I suspect there's a connector loose inside but haven't looked inside.
Anyone on the forum any experience of getting inside and reseating connectors?

xda operation
tophamn said:
I too have this problem - but if I twist the screen away from the keyboard I get the display back. I suspect there's a connector loose inside but haven't looked inside.
Anyone on the forum any experience of getting inside and reseating connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello there,
I had to get inside my xda to replace the screen that one of my dear rug rats broke. it is quite easy to do, and you only need to get into the screen side of it to get at the conectors. spin the screen half way round and look at the bottom and you will see 6 small screws. take out the two furthest out and two in the middle nearest the screen side. if you take them all out the whole thing becomes hard to handle. the front cover should GENTLY leaver off, and the cables to it exposed. even if they look in place lift the catch holding them in place and take them out and wipe the contacts with a cloth. just be very carefull with the cable strips as they tear very easy. . any problems then PM me
TTFN
Jay

White Screen
Try www.gpsmidlands.co.uk they replaced my ribbon assembly the same day.

Xda Lcd Repair
Try http://www.pda-repairs.co.uk

Brilliant
thanks for this posting - worked perfectly once i had worked out that atually you need to remove the screws further away from the screen in the middle. but otherwise I have successfully resurected a brick into a working universal! thanks!
Sark

Help with Wizard repair diagnostic

My wizard was slammed with a trunk lid. The clear screen is fine, no cracks, the housing has a scratch where it hit the lid. The lcd screen is half ok. Now I said all that to say: I bought a screen, here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&salenotsupported
Now that I have this, it doesn't look like this is what I need.
Here is a pic of the phone turned on.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/CuteePatootee/IMG_2624.jpg
I can use it with what I can see. So it works fine, its the window that I can't see that is the problem.
Can someone look at this pic and tell me what I should have gotten?
Thanks
Cutee

hy
take a look at this ,maybe it'll help you...=>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7409Gq51RFE

Thanks, I couldn't get any audio so it was hard to follow. Did you get audio? Is there anywhere else I can look?

CuteePatootee said:
My wizard was slammed with a trunk lid. The clear screen is fine, no cracks, the housing has a scratch where it hit the lid. The lcd screen is half ok. Now I said all that to say: I bought a screen, here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&salenotsupported
Now that I have this, it doesn't look like this is what I need.
Here is a pic of the phone turned on.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/CuteePatootee/IMG_2624.jpg
I can use it with what I can see. So it works fine, its the window that I can't see that is the problem.
Can someone look at this pic and tell me what I should have gotten?
Thanks
Cutee
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding is, You got a wrong part. What you got is a digitizer, it is the one used for touch only and will not be suitable for the type of repair you need. What you need is LCD. The screen on most resistive screen devices consists of 2 parts - 1 LCD and 1 Digitizer attached to LCD by a layer of fine gel and connected by a flex cable, then the whole assembly is connected by a flex to the mainboard.
My recommendation would be to purchase the entire assembly, get a service manual and replace, however, if you had problems deciding what part you need to repair your Wizard, I say take it to the professional.

nesincodrut said:
take a look at this ,maybe it'll help you...=>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7409Gq51RFE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way someone is opening and attempting to repair their Wizard on that video is what keeps me employed. Watching someone open their device with screwdrivers and then attempting to re-connect the flex and forgetting half of the screws gives me the creeps, not even sure whether to laugh or cry. Would love to see the repair actually working, rather than someone claiming they found the way to do something without demonstrating any result.

What else can I replace? (Screen issue)

My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!

RoastGecko said:
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming the cable connectors are good and clean, it is now generally accepted that white screen issues are caused by faulty chip connections on the d-pad daughter board. If you can replace that at a reasonable cost, it might be worth it.
Your new screen may have been white because either:
1
The d-pad board is indeed faulty
OR 2
The new screen although made for the Hermes is not an exact match. You MUST replace like with like. There were at least 3 different and NON-compatible screens made for the Hermes (by different manufacturers - Toppoly, Samsung etc). The only easy way to know if the new screen is the correct one is to compare the code numbers printed on the rear of the screens.
see here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=485961
Mike

I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)

RoastGecko said:
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be that you can match screen to seriel number, but so far as I know, nobody has done that detailed matchiing task. So unfortunately at the moment, the only way to tell is to dismantle and see the number.
A thought crossed my mind about the d-pad board. Have you read the long thread about fixing the whitescreen problem. One reasonably successful solution is to place a little padding on a d-pad chip to press it against it's board. (simply put the issue arises from fractured chip solder joints - caused by finger presses on the d-pad). I don't suggest this as a permanent fix, but if such padding caused the whitescreen to disappear, then at least you could be sure it is a d-pad problem.
Mike

My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...

RoastGecko said:
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing if you have the solder reflowed (obvious to some but not all!!) remember to peel off the sticky plastic layer on the opposite side or you'll end up with a sticky mess
Mike

[Q] Epic Disassembly - How can I open it up?

I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?

IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.

scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?

IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!

http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.

los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?

start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.

Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.

There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.

arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.

Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.

didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any

How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?

Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''

UPDATE: Broken HARDWare XPERIA X1 Repair on YOURSELF : FULL GUIDE

Before Reading,
Don't forget to --> click thanks button if you found my post useful, you won't be killed if you click that button LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inspired from members' aging x1 and SESC full of crap... I'm gladly introduce you this full guide that isn't supposed to be exposed. But IMHO, it is supposed to be known by X1 owner.
I think every X1 headset is out of warranty now. While Sony Ericsson Service Centre is always full of crap, bringing broken X1 is absolutely not good idea.
They will asking "faithful" price sometimes the price is higher than the phone itself. Shame on Sony Ericsson.
So please read this guide before you bring your phone to SESC or any Service Centre.
NOTICE: However I'm not responsible to anything. SO take on your own risk!
1. What is in your X1?
Download these pdfs to read the components in your X1
a. Component in your motherboard (Advance user)
b. Component in your handset (Moderate user)
2. How to (dis)assembly your X1?
Download there pdfs to (dis)assembly your X1 in proffesional way
a. Videos in PDF (high bandwidth ISP or no FUP ISP)
b. Pictures in PDF (low bandwidth ISP or limited quota ISP)
3. How to diagnose and repair your broken X1?
Download there pdfs to repair on yourself
a. Problem and solution related to mainboard (Advance user), (!) read "Component in your motherboard
b. Problem and solution related to phone component (Moderate use)
Additional Fixing COMMON ISSUE GUIDE
(thanks to Hkt, triondave, mymailx and russell.eclair (aka rx.eclair)
Taken from local forums and some from XDA-Developers, it's weird some of these methods are never been shared to here...
1. Broken Flex Cable
Diagnose:
a. When slide out, the digitizer (touchscreen panel) isn't working (screen might be working).
b. When slide out, the screen goes blank
c. The mic and front camera buzzing
Repair:
a. FIRST Aid, (It's temporary and somehow fail if you are not skilled, in unkown way)
First method "Tape Patching",
- You can also apply this method preventing this problem while you like using the XPERIA X1 keyboard.
- As easy as ABC, just put insulator tape on the scratch side of flex cable -see blue rectangle with red 'X' inside.
- You may put on another side but it will give a hard slide-out.
Second method "Arc Manipulator", (it's working)
- Try this when you are failing from the first method.
- You can make a very thin plastic with a proper size -see black rectangle with red 'X' inside- and the thick of the plastic should not be thicker than half height of left compartment -see gray rectangle. (I use broken Lego, about 2-3 mm thick and 1x2 cm large)
- Glued it as close as possible to the edge of the 'arc' flex cable -see yellow line.
Explanation: So even the flex cable being retracted while the slider out, the position of 'arc' flex cable is manipulated as closed slider flex cable position. You've got to be sure that the thick of the plastic will not make the flex cable out of the housing so for assurance, try to move the slide locker upside down several times -see gree rectangle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
b. Replace with new flex cable
- search on eBay is the cheapest price. In my country, the price is usually half than local shop but need to wait several weeks.
- After buy the replacement, see the guide to assembling your phone above
How long will it last?
- It's various based on how often you slide it out
Prevention:
- refer to point a.1 (isolate the flex cable) might be useful
- slide it out smoothly (because every time you slide it out roughly, the flex cable being tracked)
- Never / once upon time to slide your X1 out.
2. Unreponsive keyboard
It's very easy to repair it...
[Tutorial] Cleaning X1 Keyboard (Disassemble)
NEVER! follow the threa that is started by hatlo0or, because it is just horrible for beginner and offensive word for some person.
3. Scratching Housing
There's no other way to make it as new, replacing the houding is quite cheap right now. I found that the price varies from 12 to 70 USD.
Which one to buy?
I bought 3 housing for me myself and 1 for my friend.
* I compare those, priced arround 12 USD is better built than priced arround 20 USD.
** the 12 USD is fitted well and the chrome is shinner than 20 USD, the 20 USD Priced is not fitted and quite tricky to assembling it.
*** However the arround 70 USD is the best because it's complete. The housing with 12 and 20 USD have no keyboard but the 70 USD is quite good with keyboard.
Now I am using the keyboard and backplate from the 70 USD priced housing. but for front case and rear case, I used from 12 USD priced housing. As soon as, bought a leather case to prevent it from scratching...
Update!4. Unresponsive Volume Key
Okay, it has been long time that I've been vacuum. After 2-3 years, my X1 has been so terribly damaged. Now, I'm gonna share something else to you all. I dunno know how much people will be helped by this thread since only 20 persons who give comment while 8000 eyes (2x 4000 ppl) read this. But who care? so far there's noone complain.
To be honest, I finally buy another brand new XPERIA X1 from local shop (old stock) with great price because my X1 is what I called "un-help-able"LOL. The problem is unresponsive volume key.
First time, I think it is caused by faulty button but I don't find it wrong after checking up. And after several days' analysis, I found that it is caused by something on motherboard (but I could not determine which one, someone know?). However, the solution is just put something (paper, clip with thickness less than half milimeter) over the USB port (there's a slight gap between the housing and USB port) so it will push down the USB Connector (and Mother board), for unknown reason, your volume key back to normal.
I'm surprised that there are still ones who use X1 since the only person I know using this X1 in my city is me... lol
I just love X1 unfortunately death Sony Ericsson just like White Star Line who make Titanic for becoming so weak.

Thanks for sharing and the credit ;-)

looking good, hope it will be kept up to date
stuck it for the time being
BR, DK

Great GUIDE,THX

Your information is very useful
Your information is very useful and I learnt much from it! Keep working...

Very usefull thread it helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one

OnThomaz said:
It helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.

J0hnTR said:
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
You need only:
1. Micro- scissors (No idea how to say it in English) but razor blade is okay (I always used my husband's)
Just very careful to slide between the display and the digitizer or it might break your LCD as well.
Suggest you to search on youtube maybe there's no tutorial about how to replace X1 digitizer but there's a lot tutorial how to separate 'em on other models.
Just watch and learn from those videos. After you have courage, just try it. But I won't take any responsible for you acts. Because everyone's skill is different, I have no idea on yours. One advice from me is be patient and don't execute any acts until you are really sure on what you do.

VSJ said:
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. I knew it will be hard to disassemble Xperia X1..
And then I looked into the Disassembling Guide - it will be impossible to disassemble it at home!)
Thanks, will search for some repair center!

Wow,, thanks! Great one

Thx for the great GUIDE)
+1

Broken link
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.

the_analyst said:
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I don't know about that, I just copy paste the link from a local forum.
You may contact rx.eclair (kaskus) or russell.eclair (xda-developers) for questions about the link and so on

Fix Link
http://www.4shared.com/office/JVcaZCN8/component_of_the_motherboard.html
Here is the Component of The Motherboard of X1.

thanks for posting this.
It sucks having to dissasemble the phone to clean the keyboard every now and then. I wonder, is there anyway to prevent it from ever happening again?

Thanks for the extremely useful guide mate!

thanks as the aging X1 will surely need this.

Nice guide, but i still with the volume/keyboard problems...
Like some others, i have traced the proble to the motherboard, but i can't find the real cause... I think, it might be some cold solder or a faulty ground connection (this may explain why if you push the usb connector, the keys start to work again)

Great Job Bro
Great Job Bro!! Solved Problem with my X!
Thanks (;

Hi guys.
I have an old SE X1 lying around. The keyboard was not working properly, so I sent it in under warranty, but they sent it back saying I had physically damaged the screen, so my warranty was void.
When I got it back it wasn't even switching on, so I opened it up and found 2 small components broken off the mainboard. I don't know what they were but I've taken a photo of their locations, so if someone opens their phone, could they tell me what they were? It would also be brilliant if you could measure their values. I want to try soldering some replacements on...
I can't post the link to the image as an image, so I'll link it here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/98849791/DSC_1531.jpg
I'd love to get this thing working again, I miss it.
Thanks, Jodie.