My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
RoastGecko said:
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming the cable connectors are good and clean, it is now generally accepted that white screen issues are caused by faulty chip connections on the d-pad daughter board. If you can replace that at a reasonable cost, it might be worth it.
Your new screen may have been white because either:
1
The d-pad board is indeed faulty
OR 2
The new screen although made for the Hermes is not an exact match. You MUST replace like with like. There were at least 3 different and NON-compatible screens made for the Hermes (by different manufacturers - Toppoly, Samsung etc). The only easy way to know if the new screen is the correct one is to compare the code numbers printed on the rear of the screens.
see here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=485961
Mike
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
RoastGecko said:
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be that you can match screen to seriel number, but so far as I know, nobody has done that detailed matchiing task. So unfortunately at the moment, the only way to tell is to dismantle and see the number.
A thought crossed my mind about the d-pad board. Have you read the long thread about fixing the whitescreen problem. One reasonably successful solution is to place a little padding on a d-pad chip to press it against it's board. (simply put the issue arises from fractured chip solder joints - caused by finger presses on the d-pad). I don't suggest this as a permanent fix, but if such padding caused the whitescreen to disappear, then at least you could be sure it is a d-pad problem.
Mike
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
RoastGecko said:
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing if you have the solder reflowed (obvious to some but not all!!) remember to peel off the sticky plastic layer on the opposite side or you'll end up with a sticky mess
Mike
Related
I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.
Ok I need help from the gods of xda
I dropped my tilt the other day. When I picked it up everything seemed fine, yet the screen was completely white. No signs of cracks or a broken lcd. So I've tried the following: Soft reset, Hard reset, took out the battery, took apart the phone and disconnected the lcd and then re connected it. Still the same problem. WHITE SCREEN!
I can still receive/make calls, when i touch the screen in places where i remember the menus to be it still responds due to the noise, also the open and close noise still sounds.
The phone was bought new on Ebay, so i don't have a warranty through them or AT&T. After much research I hear people saying the same has happened to their phones as well and that there is a ribbon or flex cable problem. Something about still giving power to the LCD but not data, thus the white screen.
Now what I dont understand is do I need a new LCD because it has that ribbon/flex cable on it???? (link)
or
Do I need this product?(link)
Both contain a "flex cable" so im confused and frustrated, someone please help! any ideas would help
whew bought an LCD with digitizer on ebay for $45 and fixed it. Very easy process
vsicarbon said:
whew bought an LCD with digitizer on ebay for $45 and fixed it. Very easy process
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi there, would it be possible to post the link to ebay item? i also need a new touch-screen.tnanks
I am curious about this as well. I have a friend who has a hermes and he mentioned to me that that his screen was starting to go white like explained here. I look at his phone and I also noticed that the bottom hardware keys were not working at all.
I am wondering if this same ribbon cable for the LCD would also be the same one for the bottom keypad and if I fix the screen the keys will become active again.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks,
I am wondering if this same ribbon cable for the LCD would also be the same one for the bottom keypad and if I fix the screen the keys will become active again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That i dont know but here is the link to the LCD screen w/ digitizer
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=350099750789&Category=162&_trksid=p3907.m29
Same product and vendor I got mine from. Shipping took 3 business days. I advice to buy the insurence
Park City said:
I am curious about this as well. I have a friend who has a hermes and he mentioned to me that that his screen was starting to go white like explained here. I look at his phone and I also noticed that the bottom hardware keys were not working at all.
I am wondering if this same ribbon cable for the LCD would also be the same one for the bottom keypad and if I fix the screen the keys will become active again.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tuck in for a long read and perhaps no single answer for all cases:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=303872
In short, yes the d/pad cable and LCD screen connections are linked which is why it is not uncommon for the white screen to show up when the d/pad is not working.
To the OP - I would just point out that if you get the white screen after a fall it may just be a loose connection at the d/pad and no need for new parts.
Dismantling instructions here:
www.mikechanon.net
But let's not start discussing the white screen here, please use the first link I gave above if you need to post.
Mike
a user i dont recall now his name,fixed is whitescreen by replacing the camera,open the device and remove the camera module, reassemble to test.
Hi, I come on here quite a lot for information as it's an amazing resource! This time however, I'm attempting to give something back!
I experienced the "black screen on slide out" on Monday. Phone completely screwed. I've also had a few droppages and had it apart once before so there's no way warranty is gonna help!
I stripped it down and soon discovered what it is that actually fails on the ribbon. The coating had worn through due to rubbing on something during the slide out / in process. it had been playing up for a while, probably due to shorting out on the metal case, but now the tracks (aluminium?) had worn right down.....
In pic 1 i've circled the worn area. The shiny section is where i'd tried taping over it to prevent shorting, before i realised the tracks were gone.
Got an almost new one off ebay for 15 quid and, realising it was going to happen again, came up with a solution that, so far, looks like it will work....
A while back I bought some "anti rattle felt" for my car's dashboard - really thin and strong self adhesive felt to prevent squeaking joins between dash sections. I cut a piece of this and stuck it to the new ribbon. Once this stuff is on it's well stuck, by the way!
See pic 2 for the modded ribbon cable.
On reassembly everything is working just fine so far! Here's hoping that it lasts longer than 6 months this time!
Just need a new casing now as mine is decidedly second hand!
Hope this turns out to be of use to someone!
cool story bro
when i took apart my xperia to replace the housing this seemed like a really weak point in the device. glad to see someone who has had the problem has been able to fix it
Why does the screen go black?
Hi,
When the coating wears off the ribbon cable it exposes the tracks in it. when you slide the keyboard out the exposed tracks short out on the metal casing and the screen loses it's input signal.
thats whats happened on mine at least and i presume quite a few others?
HTH!
Update:
That's interesting: My phone was also losing signal with the keyboard out, and occasionally while closed up as well. It would just randomly drop to "no signal" for a few seconds.
It hasn't done it since replacing the ribbon cable.....could be coincidental of course.
I'm having the same problem
It just started a week ago and I got the phone in January off of ebay. I'm new to opening up the phone so could anyone help me find the correct tools or have a link to a site with pictured instructions?
I noticed that the sliding mechanism started to go loose about 4-5 months ago but didn't expect the screen not respond in landscape mode. I have yet to see the other symptoms you all are referring to. I would like to fix this before it get worse.
In mine case it went totaly black after one week of this problem... You have all the instruction on youtube, there is where i looked. For tools you can be inovative, but the exactly right ones come with housings from ebay, it is only 15EUR, and i bet you have some cracks so it wouldn't hurt replacing. That is what i did, along with ordering new sliding mechanizm, and new ribbon cable.
I am open for ideas to prevent my ribbon cable from being cut at it weakest point again.
I'm assuming my flex ribbon went bad yesterday, since sliding the keypad out causes my screen to shut off.
Already ordered a cable off ebay and will attempt to replace it myself :O
Replaced my flex ribbon cable with one I bought on eBay. The screen doesn't turn on at all now, which leads me to believe the cable I was sent is defective. Put the old one back in and it works okay, less landscape mode. ughhh what a pain.
great tips! my input is I bought a case off of ebay that was ~60$ and everything actually fit fine for me...so I wouldn't discount every seller but you do get what you pay for, the 15$ cases are probablly the ones that will give you problems
I working in a mobilephone repair center if anyone need help drop me a priv... i able to get 2nd hand or even brand new components
Replaced the flex ribbon cable -
I got my flex ribbon cable a few weeks ago and took it to my local repair shop. They replaced it but the LCD screen/optical joystick receives no power. The touchscreen and everything else on the phone works just fine now. I thought it was a defective item so it was exchanged with a new one.
Got the repair shop to replace it again and the outcome still remains the same as the first.
Theres no light coming from the screen nor the side illumination.
I just told the repair shop to just place the original back in for the mean time.
Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power botton.
Could it be defective a batch that the seller was sending out? or the repair shop's mistake and is playing dumb so they do not have to admint fault?
Hopefully there's an easy fix to this problem.
-Also I did inspect the ribbon before and after the repair. looks new as the OEm
Can anybody help me out with this new problem after replacing the cable -
perhaps you should try a hard reset. Ive had problems in the past where the optical joystick and the illuminators did not work, and that worked for me.
On the other hand, the top illuminators are on the same piece of hardware as the flex cable that was replaced, so a faulty flex cable is possible. The bottom illuminators are on the circuit board that the optical joystick attaches to, separate but connected to the flex cable.
Ive recently replaced my flex cable and touchscreen. The experience i had with the faulty touch screen was that it appeared to receive no power, but was in fact displaying a dark backlit illumination that could only be seen in the dark. At the same time however, the screen did not display anything. I'm not sure if this is similar to your experience, but if so then your touchscreen would need to be replaced.
ive done all repairs on the xperia myself, and one thing ive discovered is if something doesnt work right after a repair, simply disassembling it and reassembling it to make sure all the connections are properly done has worked for me in the past.
"Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power button."
Now when you say the power button, do you mean that a red light appears under it?
I dont know if i can come to a conclusion or that i can help (or have helped) you come to a conclusion, but i can only assure you that the xperia acts out in strange and weird ways.
Good Luck!
Tags
Dismantle / Disassemble Sony Ericson Xperia X1
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Sony-Ericsson-XPERIA-X1/788/1
http://www.formymobile.co.uk/xperiadisassembly.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y (REAR)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGUbxFqvyc&feature=related (FRONT)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elgC8hwHfYQ&feature=related
For info.
Mike
Thanks for the links. I've tried the hardreset and restoring the original rom but the issue is still there. It's really bugging me that everything works but the LCD screen. I'm currently using MyMobiler to use my phone. The touch screen works fine and so does the soft keys. Just no power for the lights. I might just give up and wait for another phone that catches my eye and then tinker with the xperia myself. but if anyone got a solution or want me to test something then I'll give it a try.
My warranty is no longer affective so I'll use my phone as a tester to help others with any problems.
TRIONDAVE, how's your Xperia running now with the cable mod that you did? Its been 6 months since you created the thread. I hope you're still around.
My Xperia X1 works nearly fine, except for the keyboard issues, so I'm thinking of opening it up. If your Ribbon mod helped I might just do it too once I've got it opened. Mine has a MOUNTain of cracks though, and the battery compartment itself is cracked on both side enough to make the compartment CURVED. Hence the Battery cover doesn't sit well.
I'm looking around for broken Xperias which I might be able to use to change the internal cracked casing. Lets see.
DatDereX1 said:
cool story bro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thoughts exactly.
Hello guys, I am in need of real help over here!
Its just that Ive replaced my ribbon cable, the old one got screwd up.
However I got done for 10 minutes ago, tried to start up the phone.. without success :,(
The ribbon cable doesnt have anything to do with the start up, only the screen am I correct? Cause I cannot even start my phone..
Ive connected the charger, but when I remove the battery it shows a red light, meaning no battery, correct?
So what may the problem be exactly? Maybe the battery is all dead, or?
PLEASE HELP!
for the people with ribbon failures how long have you had the phone before it occurred ? im just interested on the cables lifespan.
mine is fine so far but i have noticed the slider is flimsy and rocks left and right.
While carrying a HEAVY 32" CRT TV my phone fell out of my pocket and I inadvertently stepped on it while wearing steel-toe work boots. The phone seemed to work even though the screen was cracked... I could get the comm manager up and push where I remembered the vibrate button to be and it seemed to work.
I put in a new LCD panel and all I got was a boot sound and a white screen, so I also tried a new flex cable with the same results. I also can't seem to get any kind of reaction out of it like before so I'm not really sure where to go next.
I'd really like to fix this thing but it's not worth putting an arm and a leg into it.
What do you guys think I should try? Anything I'm overlooking or something? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Noah
retroman2128 said:
While carrying a HEAVY 32" CRT TV my phone fell out of my pocket and I inadvertently stepped on it while wearing steel-toe work boots. The phone seemed to work even though the screen was cracked... I could get the comm manager up and push where I remembered the vibrate button to be and it seemed to work.
I put in a new LCD panel and all I got was a boot sound and a white screen, so I also tried a new flex cable with the same results. I also can't seem to get any kind of reaction out of it like before so I'm not really sure where to go next.
I'd really like to fix this thing but it's not worth putting an arm and a leg into it.
What do you guys think I should try? Anything I'm overlooking or something? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Noah
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to be sure the new LCD is made by the same company as the old one. This is ESSENTIAL. See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=485961
In particular my post no 4.
Mike
Thanks for that tip, but both LCD panels seem identical except for the stickers, but the model numbers on the stickers are both the same. One has a larger print than the other. The number on both is TD028STEB1, and they both have a black ribbon cable.
Hmm. I just noticed. The old LCD panel says P/N 60H00037-01M and the new one says P/N 60H00037-00M. Even though these are both the Toppoly LCD panel could this mean they are incompatible?
Thanks,
Noah
Well, I think those two are compatible (bith Toppoly). So assuming the new one is ok as a replacment it leaves a couple of possibilities I think:
1
The connectors need to be re-checked.
OR
2
in the worst case scenario there is damaged to the d/pad board. A chip on the d/pad board is crucial for the functioning of the screen. Unfortunately this chip can be prone to micro fractures in the soldering between it and the board. (Even with normal button pressing many members have had a "white screen because of this cracking). Some members have found that putting a little padding on top of the chip to push it against the d/pad board can be used as a solution. (I think though, that this should be vied as a temporary solution).
Just my thoughts.
Mike
Okay, so I had this G1 for about a month now, works fine, rooting was a blast, but I wanted to get rid of the cracked digitizer glass. So the part comes in the mail... I read and followed the take-apart tutorials to the letter, install it, put it back together, and what's this???
The screen is dark with no display, I slide out the keyboard and I get a display but no back-lighting. I wait for the thing to get to the home screen and I am not getting any touch-screen action. Any ideas? It is safe to assume the digitizer may be dead but what's the deal with the darkness?
Prior to installing the screen I had the back-light issues and I thought "maybe one of the flex cables are loose" but now I am dead in the water. Any info anyone would have about this would be helpful
Thanks
Dr.Gonz0 said:
I thought "maybe one of the flex cables are loose" but now I am dead in the water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like the right thought. Clearly, something isn't connected properly.
As i see, there are three variants (from good to bad):
1.) You`ve connected some cable badly, or, for example, you`ve didn`t put down the black blocking panel on some of connectors where it is. As for me, i`ve additionally put some scotch upon any connector i was attaching - it works.
2.) Some cable went bad due to inaccurate handling. When i was doing the same thing (replacing G1 digitizer) - it was stated in manual, tha flex cables, especialy black ones, connecting mainboard with LCD&touch block - can be easily torn. You should examine then carefully - electrical tester would be a nice idea.
3.) You`ve spoiled some chip on the board with static electricity on your fingers. It is really rare - but really bad variant.
Hehe turns out that the flex cable was already fried before working on it, thanks to a great friend I received a new flex cable and was incredibly surgical putting all those cables back in, but I did it. Back up and running @ 100% muahahaha!
So how do I cook for this device?