Related
I search a software that helps me to understand over a long time, the way my battery is drained or charged.
I already use acbPowerMeter but it is more for real time analysis.
I would like this software records every X minutes
- the level of draining or charging like Power Meter, the level of the battery in % or like in sktools (ac, %, voltage, current, temperature) :
On AC Line: Yes
Main battery: 71%, 3929 mV, 3 mA, 36 C
- the applications used and the percentage of cpu used like again in sktools
- if wifi, or bluetooth or gprs data is on and the number of data transmitted in the period
- calls and duration of calls
I am ready to develop it but I need advice because it is the first time I will do it on a ppc and I have not developed since a long time so eliminate languages like C++ or C#. More simple one will be appreciated.
I will need also some advice to know how to get these informations.
I promise that in exchange of these advices I will release it free.
http://www.chi-tai.info/cs_BatteryStatus_XDA_Neo_WM5_iM_cs.htm?
Interesting. Not so far of my need.
But I need one log file, and recording of all the infos every X min.
me too this would be very helpful
Instead of the old and outdated acbPowerMeter , use acbTaskMan, which fulfills most of your needs. It's far better, can even log for 24 hours and and to a file. Read my related articles in the Wiki for more info.
Hi all,
...since I could not find a program to achieve this, I had to write one myself. Well, it is not a program, but just a MortScript to do the job of data collection while the battery is discharged.
As MortScript runs on all WM platforms from WM2k3 onwards and on both: Smartphone (standard) and PocketPC (professional), you can use this concept for all devices that MortScript runs on.
You have to take care yourself that the battery is full before you start and that the discharge is constant over time. Both is easy however
The job to discharge your battery while measured is done by the display lit to the maximum brightness and all other big current drains should be off to get comparable data. The script runs in the background and whenever the Battery% goes down is writes to a file remembering the timestamp for this.
For my devices the time to drain the batteries from full to zero was 1-16 hours, depending on how much the fully lit display draws off the battery and capacity and health of the battery.
Evaluation is done off-line with a spreadsheet program.
Usage:
install MortScript
unzip the attached file to your PC
put the battery-rundown.mscr file to the folder \My Documents\Battery or \Storage\My Documents\Battery for WM2K3 on your device
put the battery-rundown.lnk (*-wm2k3.* for WM2k3) file on your device to the \windows\startup folder. This makes sure that the script starts as soon as your device starts. It will not do any harm there and can even stay there for a longer time if you want to learn about your battery charge cycles. You can also copy it to any other place you like in the startmenu for easy access.
make sure all radio access is off (GSM/UMTS, BT, WLAN)
adjust the display and backlight on battery to stay on forever as well as backlight brightness for battery use to maximum
switch off the device
charge it until the battery is full (green light). Optionally leave it like this for another 1-3 hours to get the trickle charge squeeze the last electrons to the battery. Impact of this should not be more than 10% capacity - skip it if you are impatient.
switch on, the script starts automatically and measurement has created a file where the mortscript resides. It will continue to write to this file until the battery goes to 0% and device switches off.
disconnect from the charger (but you did this already, or?)
You can check from time to time the content of the log-file to see the progress if you like.
leave the device alone until is is off - this will take several hours, best is to do this over night. Put it at a place where the battery warning is not disturbing you at night.
after the device is off due to the empty battery, reconnect the charger and switch on after a few seconds of recovery
now you can look at the log-file and examine or post-process it in a spreadsheet program - the timestamp should tell you which file it was.
The resulting file "bd_<date-time-started>.csv can be loaded to a spreadsheet and evaluated, so you can compare your own batteries to see which is the best.
Even better, for the same device type the standardized method of measurement, where the current drain by the fully lit display should be reasonably identical for all devices, makes it possible to share battery quality data for 3rd party suppliers. A reasonable point of comparison for one device type is the time it takes until the battery is drained down to 10% - despite the discharge is not at all linear (usually).
I did all this and supply you all my data as an example to depict what you can do yourself now.
I hope you find the script useful.
For device specific discussions, please open a thread in the relevant device forum - pointing to this thread for the method - and not here. This thread is only to discuss the scripts or the method of measurement.
Note:
Please also read post 2 (device specific links) and post 3 (general hints on batteries) of this thread. I will update them from time to time when new info is available.
20100225 added:
If you want to find out how much drain happens to your battery in the test-setup, you can ask the battery driver, e.g. by using HomeScreen++ or BattClock. Mind that this data is not immediately reliable, especially when you change conditions (e.g. dim the light) the change is often reflected only minutes later. The true value can only be found by measuring the drain with an Ampere-meter. This is harder than you may think as the impedance of the meter must be very low to get the device started up properly.
20100313 added:
More programs to read the power drain:
free: acbpowermeter
cost: acbtaskman (can also export data) same provider as above.
Update to the script and few more data inserted to the spreadsheet:
The script now logs several items from the registry, including the Data for CurrentDrain and BatteryTemperature that BattClock writes if it is configured to show them in display.
Started to measure standby drain on all my spare devices - mileage varies. This is also not a real life measurement as the devices have everything shut off (light, radio etc..) and the only process that keeps them busy is the script waking up each 5 minutes. If you like you can change the value for MaxSleepTime in the script to much higher values to decrease the impact of drain to the measurement. I am not sure how this will behave on WM Professional with its complicated power model (standby mode) but on smartphone it runs very well. First data are available in the spreadsheet. It would be best of course to be notified by the system if the battery percentage changes instead of polling for it, but MortScript does not supply a method to achieve this.
20101123 added:
The script reads from data that the BattClock program writes to the registry if you configure it to do so. Further changes are:
Also BatteryVoltage is read from BattClock Data
Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the last data to file in such case.
added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
The full change history is included in the script:
Code:
# Date ID comments
# 20101123 tobbbie changed script to match to a TAB alignment of 8 characters
# 20101123 tobbbie altered the logic for LogForcePercent and set default to 0 to not log anything by default.
# 20101010 tobbbie Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is
# below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may
# take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the
# device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the
# last data to file in such case.
# added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
# 20100425 tobbbie added Registry Read for BattClock BatteryVoltage, rearranged sequence of items
# 20100313 tobbbie added evaluation of \HKLM\System\State\Battery "main" to logging
# 20100313 tobbbie added identification of device via HKLM\Ident and IMEI in headerline
# 20100312 tobbbie made dword registry data to be logged as "0" if no data retrieved
# 20100302 tobbbie added registry read for data created by BattClock
# 20100205 tobbbie added self-adjusting sleeptime (InitSleepTime to MaxSleepTime in ms)
# 20100201 tobbbie initial version
# 20100128 tobbbie draft versions, proof of concept
Device Specific threads are available for:
Vox (tobbbie)
Tornado (tobbbie)
Hurricane (tobbbie)
Typhoon/Amadeus (tobbbie)
LG KS20 (tobbbie)
Rhodium/Touch Pro 2 (mccune)
...I will add more here if someone else starts other device specific threads, please PM me for this.
A lot of background information can be found at the "Battery University": http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm
A specially interesting part is the one about charging: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-12.htm
I have seen a strange charge curves on my Hurricane device - it goes to 68% and jumps to 100% suddenly. This device has a very bad discharge curve (% accuracy) anyway - so the charge fits to that as well. I am using the T-Mobile Germany SDA 2 standard firmware of the device - and since it is in my "museum" I will not put more effort in getting it tracked down.
At least I can confirm that the discharge for the same battery in the same device is nearly identical (I did this for the worst performing battery). I will upload some new result Excel soon.
To be on the safe side that your battery is properly charged, leave the battery charging for at least 4 hours. This should make sure that "step 2" of the charge (where the charge current goes down until charge cut-off) is sufficiently executed. In how much the "green LED" signal is linked to charge-cut-off is device dependent - it may even be different if you charge via the bootloader (device is completely "off") or with the battery driver controling the job.
This is really an amazing tool. Thanks
Ooops, this thread was lifted to the front-page news (I checked there to see the new design), so I hope to see some new device threads starting up and some more comparable data on "my" devices.
The echo was quite low (as of now: null) on these threads, so I suspect that people are happy with their batteries and have no need to know (or report) the truth.
Will post this in the Rhodium section as well. Great idea!
Don't give up on projects like these. It looks like XDA has a lot of members compared to a few years back, but the group of tech geeks (this is actually meant positive) remain about the same.
Thanks. Works on HD with Topix rom.
Please get back to this thread or PM me if you have reports of the test running on other devices. I'd prefer if you can deliver data along with your reports - of course.
Mind that the script can easily be enhanced to collect more information, e.g voltage or battery drain if these can be accessed via MortScript. A good place to observe is the HKLM\System\State\Battery\ where different drivers are updating useful information. Unfortunately not for mine, so I have not included it here.
I've posted this in the Rhodium section as promised.
You can find it right HERE. I did copy your post to keep things more general.
concerning the images you've posted they seem to lack some quality and are a bit hard to read.
EDIT: It seems that the graphics in the attachment from the first post are just fine.
Currently I'm charging my TouchPro2 to perform the test!
thanks, mccune!
I have added your post to the list in post 2 of this thread. I really hope that all the speculation on usage time and performance which is derived by comparing "average use" over time will fade away using this simple method.
If you like to adapt the script by adding related registry values from your device, feel free to do so. Many newer battery drivers are supplying data to the HKLM\System\State\Battery hierarchy of the registry.
If doing this, please do it conditionally on existence of the value so that the script can stay generic and still run on devices where the driver does not supply the data.
I would like to follow two real physical values when the battery runs down: battery voltage and current drain from the battery. This could put the comparison of batteries even out of the "device specific" cage - still assuming that the supplied values are sufficiently accurate though. However, since charging LiIon batteries is much depending on accurate voltage, this assumption should be valid.
Regarding the pictures: The board limits the picture size to 640x480 and resizes accordingly. As you found out the ZIP has the original pictures inside.
@tobbie
I've finished the testing but I did not get the values quite correct in the Excel sheet it seems.
Can you have a look at it? You can just send me the pics and I'll post them in the Rhodium section for you.
I performed two tests.
First: just charging the battery till the LED turns green (100%) and followed the instructions from the first post to perform the test.
Second: After the first test I've removed the battery for about 30 seconds and inserted the battery but left the device turned off. After it was fully charged I removed the battery again for 30 seconds. I put back the battery and performed the test again. I've read that this is the way to calibrate your battery after flashing.
The data looks fine - you can take the sheets directly to generate an individual graph in Excel. Just mark the first 2 columns, select the "Graph" button and then the "Points(XY)" graph type.
You also have to take care that the right % values are taking the time data. It sometimes happens that the % rundown is not getting all values, so certain % values are simply never seen (like 99,98 or 24 in your data).
If you want to use one of my sheets as a sample, then you need to create a % scale first for your device (it seems it can take all % values - while for the Tornado the < 20% are stepping in larger increments).
Then the copy/paste has to use the "transpose" option of the "paste information" menu to convert the column to line data.
I have done a quick graph on your data, see attach. You can further beautify this. I am surprised to see that the device has 10 hours of rundown time with the large display. Are you sure you have set the light to the maximum value on battery?
What were the current drain readings you got from the driver?
Thanks for this I can really work with this. I realized that I could just replace your data with mine but you've already done it.
Concerning the brightness. I did set it to maximum. The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
mccune said:
The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good that you can spend some time on it. I doubt that the ROM is making a difference as the OEM drivers and settings (battery, display) are usually not changed when cooking.
You have seen in the charts that the "calibration" is actually not doing anything worth noting down. Put in a different battery (other vendor) and you will see a difference. Nice to see that the percentage rundown is nearly linear on the device
mccune said:
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both programs ask the same driver so they should deliver the same values.
Can you actually TELL what the value of your drain was on the Rhodium?
My "method" is to connect an Ampere-meter (an old analog one to get a clue on the average current) - a little tricky though but it works once you have managed to get the "adapter" assembled.
My current drain on the Rhodium is:
- full lit display: 134 mA
- dim display: 35 mA
- Backlight can't be turned off so can't tell what the current drain for the third measurement is.
Modified the post in the Rhodium section.
Also added this line to the post:
"(If you want to use software try HomeScreen++ or BattClock to get the readings about the current drain.)"
Updated the Rhodium section. This should be the data you were after, right?
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?
If you use my sheets as a template you find fields for any of the interesting data that can be listed - also battery manufacturer and serial to tell apart different batteries.
I will add the two programs to the first post so that people do not have to read the full thread. Thanks for the information.
tobbbie said:
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the regular Rhodium battery. Age is about 6 or 7 months now.
Today I've finished the test with a WM6.5 ROM. As you've predicted it's pretty much the same so I decided not to add it.
What might be useful to know is that you only get 10% increments when using the default battery driver from HTC. On my 6.1 ROM I was using a 1% driver so the data is measured much more frequent.
Data for PURE
Hi,
I have recorded data for my PURE.
It seems to suck battery very fast. Doesn't normally last a workday.
I am running TESS LEO IV ROM.
Would love to compare with someone with a similar device but did not see a thread for the PURE/D2/Topaz
Thanks.
Last week I found a thread which had an overview of the most phone functions, which their battery consumption in mAh.
I don't know if it was a recent or older thread, but I can't find it anymore
Does anyone have a clue?
"Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh"
C/P from some thread here, i'm lazy to find it now
SWINXNL said:
Last week I found a thread which had an overview of the most phone functions, which their battery consumption in mAh.
I don't know if it was a recent or older thread, but I can't find it anymore
Does anyone have a clue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=632684
Try that one.
Is there a program for that? Like for example Android has built in app that shows what % of battery was used by display, apps, radio, ...
Is there similar program for winmo?
rp-x1 said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=632684
Try that one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! .
Hello! I flashed CM10 on my green lens defy quite some time ago (2 months) and I had no problems at first. Then after flashing a new nightly (can't remember which one exactly, probably the 0904 one) I noticed that my battery is draining much faster than usual. Then two battery drops appeared - from 69% to 50% and 35% to 19%. My Defy shut down automatically once and I connected the charger to it ... the phone booted itself to the screen where it shows that it charges the battery and it showed 49%. Then I booted my Defy as usual and the battery icon showed only 4%. Hope I was clear and you guys can understand me! Is there a fix to that? Thanks in advance!
P.S. Forgot to mention I'm using Quarx's ROMs, if that's of any help.
Sent from my MB525 using xda app-developers app
u have to use battery fix search in forum ,u can find it
Thanks, I tried using red lens battery fix with no success. I tried wipe data and flashing the latest Quarx CM10 nightly and again - no success. I tried to use CM7 Kernel instead of Epsy's Kernel - NO success.
I have the same problem..help someone!!!
"Recently many users of the Motorola Defy phone have encountered sudden drops in battery charge after installing a new ROM. Such as, drops from 67% to 49%, from 34% to 19%, from 7% to 4%, etc.
I also have encountered such problem when installed CM7.2 after being used stock Froyo ROM for more than an year. I had searched forums for possible fix, but no method has helped.
Finally, I have made some tests with my phone and found interesting points about Defy battery that explain battery percentage drops.
Our Defy have very simple battery controller (it is referred as cpcap by Motorola). The controller does not calculate and provide battery percentage. It provides only a battery voltage and a current. The battd daemon do the battery percentage estimation. It seems some overcomplicated estimation algorithm is used to do that (I've seen the Coulomb counter technique is mentioned in the battd sources).
There are several battery percentage checkpoints at 5%, 20%, 50%, 80%, 100%. It seems the battd daemon have a voltage-percentage mapping table for these checkpoints. When a battery voltage reaches a checkpoint value then the percentage is immediately set to a corresponding value. All other intermediate percentage values are estimated by the battd daemon. The estimation is based on a battery capacity (requested from the battery itself) and the active current. A stock battery reports 1500 capacity. A 1700mAh Chinese battery, I also have, reports only 1200 capacity battd stores the last calculated battery percentage and voltage in the /data/battd/cc_data file. Data from the /data/battd/cc_data file is read on start-up and the percentage from this file is used as base and reported to the system. When battery is drained, the percentage is decremented. When you delete the cc_data and reboot, battd uses the current voltage and looks for the nearest checkpoint voltage value and sets the percentage accordingly.
How have I found the checkpoint values above?
Assume we have a brand new original Defy battery and it shows 25% of charge.
If you delete the cc_data file and then reboot the phone, battd will recreate the file and request the battery controller(?) for the current battery status. The controller will return 50% and battd show 49% to you (not 49% not 50%, due to rounding to the lowest integer). But the real charge is 25%! Now let the battery discharge. It will show to you 48%, 47%, 46%, etc. Great! But at 40-44% you get the instant drop to 19%, since the battery controller had reported real 20% charge at that point and battd has been forced to sync its estimated charge value to the real charge value.
When a battery is wearing its actual capacity is decreased. For example, it may be 1300 mAh after an year of usage. But battery still reports it have 1500 capacity and battd uses this capacity for its calculations. battd should decrement percentage a bit faster for this worn battery, but it still use the same decrement speed as for a new 1500 battery. When battery voltage reaches a check point value, battd updates percentage to corresponding checkpoint value and you register a drop.
battd has some battery information and correction data in the /pds/public/battd folder. This data helps battd to estimate battery charge more correctly. This folder contain 3 files:
Code:
batt_offset_data
batt_phasing_data
batt_tuning_data
Without this correction data you may encounter slight drops even on a new stock battery,
For Defy there at least 2 versions of battd. (Defy+ uses a different battd) Let's name them as old and new ones. To find out which version you have, check the size of the /data/battd/cc_data file.
cc_data = 16 bytes - old battd,
cc_data = 24 bytes - new battd.
Early stock Froyo ROMs have the old battd, newer stock ROMs have the new battd. CM7.2 is bundled with the new battd.
Is the battd version makes any difference in the battery readings? YES. The difference is in a user account which is used to run a battd daemon.
The old battd uses the mot_accy user account, The new battd uses the system account. The corresponding owner and group should be set for the /pds/public/battd folder and files inside it. Otherwise battd will not be able to read battery data from the /pds/public/battd folder and defaults will be used, which cause inaccurate estimations.
If you have used stock old Froyo ROM or old custom ROM, you had the old battd. The /pds/public/battd folder has permissions for the mot_accy user account only.
You install the CM7.2 ROM with the new battd and it can not read battery data from the /pds/public/battd folder, since battd is run under the system user account. You have inaccurate battery estimation and percentage drops even on a brand new battery.
That's why installing the old battd (and its companion lib libbattd.so) on CM7.2 resolves battery drops issue for some users.
If you are using CM7.2 or any newer CM you can just change the owner and group for the /pds/public/battd folder and files inside it. Set both owner and group to system and the new battd will be able to read battery data files.
If you still have battery drops then your battery is worn to some degree and battd can not estimate its charge properly between checkpoints.
Is it possible to correct this? Probably yes.
I was able to adjust checkpoint voltage values and eliminate drops on checkpoints. BUT the discharging speed is still the same and I have good discharge without drops from 100% to 10% and phone is turned off on 10% since a battery reaches critical voltage of 3.050V.
To adjust checkpoints it is needed to change the /pds/public/battd/batt_offset_data file. I have changed the last 3 bytes to 0xA0. It offsets voltage value for checkpoints on 50%, 20% and 5%.
The batt_phasing_data file have not helped at all in my tests. It contains correction values for displayed voltage, temperature, current.
The batt_tuning_data file is total mystery atm.
So the goal is to find a way to force battd to decrement percents faster for worn batteries. The simplest way is to patch the battd with hardcoded capacity value (e.g. 1300) instead of reading this value from the battery.
The other (better) option is to create a custom battery driver and use a very simple mapping from current voltage to percentage. Such method is used to display battery status in touch boot menu. Also Quarx started a custom battery driver some time ago in his git repository.
Important:
The battery calibration is a myth! The /data/system/batterystats.bin file is not related to battery charge/life/status (exactly as Google devs stated earlier).
In case of our Defy, charge the battery to 100% and keep charging for few hours after that. Then disconnect it battd will display correct 99%. That's all you need when changing ROMs or batteries! Do not waste your time on "battery calibration"!
Conclusion:
Find out which version of battd you are using.
Check owner and permissions for the /pds/public/battd folder and files inside it. Correct owner/permissions if needed.
Charge your battery to 100% and keep charging for few hours more.
If you still have battery percentage drops after that, your battery is worn to some degree. The sum of dropped percents indicates how bad is your battery (-10%, -15% etc, compared to a new battery). There is no way to magically increase real life for this battery. Drops just a display issue due to crappy cheap battery controller in our Defy and weak battd estimation logic. That's why stock ROMs have 10% steps for battery charge - to hide such issues."
Here from this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1778492&highlight=battery
Many battery-life-tips mentioned here DON'T need any modifications to your Z.
Please don't post discouraging things like...
-"Why all the fuzz? Buy a external battery"
-"Why BLunlock/undervolting/-clocking/rooting and voiding warranty?"
...we all know that.
There are many factors influencing screen-on-time. Please read the must-read-section before you judge my thread.
THIS THREAD IS ABOUT OPTIMIZING BATTERY LIFE OF THE SONY XPERIA Z WITHOUT SACRIFICING TOO MANY FEATURES OR MUCH OF USER EXPERIENCE/PERFORMANCE. THIS IS A UNFINISHED ONGOING PROCESS.
Don't forget: If you like what you read, please press the thanks-button.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
I. INTRODUCTION
I.1 Prologue / Must read
I.2 My average usage pattern
I.3 Change-Log
I.4 To-do
II. BATTERY SAVING TIPS
II.1 General-section (tips everyone can apply)
II.1.1 Tips I use
II.1.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
II.2 Root-section (additional: tips for rooted devices)
II.2.1 Tips I use
II.2.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
II.3 Bootloader-section (add.: tips for bootloader-unlocked devices)
II.3.1 Tips I use
II.3.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
III. MISC
III.1 Thanks to
III.2 Translations
III.3 Results
I. INTRODUCTION
I.1 Prologue / Must read !
Hi everyone,
First I should introduce myself a little: I'm from germany, 24 years old and currently studying technology of information systems. Since xda helped me alot, I also want to share with you all I know about optimizing battery life.
A XZ with all-standard-settings (without my tips) currently only gets approx. 4,5-5 h with my average usage pattern. And max. 3,5 hours with heavier usage (while travelling e.g.). With heavy games even less.
After implementing my tips I often get 7h+ of REAL USAGE battery life (=screen-on-time = SOT =s-o-t) with my Xperia Z. Sometimes I even get more SOT: see e.g. my screenshots of 7:09 h SOT with remaining 6% and 20 hours since last charging. But I also sometimes only get 5 hours (with heavier usage, while travelling e.g.).
I'm not bragging, please do not misunderstand me. If we crippled all smartphone-features, turned everything off and only read books with the XZ, we could even get 9-10 hours SOT...but thats not what I want to achieve!
There are many factors influencing screen-on-time: Your individual usage, your individual apps, your apps' (obligatory) wakelocks, your cell/data/wifi receiption during the day, provider-support of fastdormancy, your XZ's undervolt capability, ...
Also everyone has his own taste:
Some like 1.5 GHz+4cores+100% brightness all day+5 homescreens+... And some don't.
I only write down ALL tips I know/find. I do not use every single one of them, because some would lower my comfort. But I write them down for you, because I respect everyones individual usage. So please don't blame me for everything or talk bad about my thread in other threads.
You can decide which tips you like to use, which you don't.
Greetings
Seb
I.2 My average usage pattern
- browsing a lot with dolphin browser (sonar etc. disabled with elixir; 'Google Chrome' consumes too much battery, causes many wakelocks and has no flash-support)
- reading hundrets of tech-news with gReader (almost all news include pictures and some videos; hardware acceleration on)
- listening to music with walkman (20 min/day)
- watching some youtube (at least 3-4 videos; each 2 to 15 min long)
- reading for about half an hour (with kindle app or adobe reader)
- usung tapatalk for xda a lot
- whatsapp a lot
- reading many mails with KAITEN MAIL (many include pdf) and let synchronize 2 of 4 email accounts every 3 h and the remaining 2 every 6 h
- sms: 1/day
- calls: 20min/day
- photos: 2/day
- using wunderlist
- checking ebay: 1x/day
- VNC to enter business-pc remotly 2x/day (5-10 min)
- a lot 9gag
- Widgets on 2 homescreens:
4x Kaiten Mail-Widgets (counters for unread emails)
1x Walkman-Widg.
I.3 Changes to this post
31.12.13
- corrected formatting
27.12.13
- Updated and added many new tips to bootloader section (e.g gpu-undervolting!)
- Updated and added many tips to root section
- Updated general section slightly
- Updated prologue slightly
- Updated usage pattern slightly
- NEWS1: Switched to XzKernel by alnikki25k because it currently offers more features, runs smoother and gets updated more frequently
- NEWS2: Lifted my max. cpu-freq from 1.24 to 1.35ghz, which won't effect battery life too much anylonger ( -15 min SOT)
Earlier changes: deleted because of limited space
I.4 To-do
- add measurement-section
- give some milliampere-values
- Shorten all sections/texts/tips
- Find the holy grail of battery life saving
II. BATTERY SAVING TIPS
II.1 General-section
II.1.1 TIPS I USE:
- Update to Android 4.2.2 (currently use stock-sony-firmware .67), but will switch to 4.3 as soon as we get a working custom kernel for it
- if contract has no LTE/4G, so set the network mode to wcdma/gsm (the LTE/4G-chip sucks a lot of battery (better disable it, if you don't need more than the 21 Mbit/s 3G/hsdpa+ provides)
- If you can choose: use Wifi over 3G over LTE (in general). But if 3G connection is fast and wifi very slow, use 3G! Avoid LTE/4G if you do not need more than 21 Mbit/s.
Use "ONLY 2G" only if 3G receiption is extremly poor and as slow as 2G, but 2G receiption is great.
- stamina on (only whatsapp whitelisted). Reset stamina mode if it doesn't work properly (clear cache). Stamina is (mostly) better than turning phone off several times per day, because boot consumes too much battery (especially if many apps load at boot).
- battery settings > battery save mode: on (from 100%; excluding wifi+auto sync)
- wifi set to not search for networks/no notification,
- wifi set to stay always on (turning off during standby will help battery, but every custom kernel has an issue with the wifi drivers, so set wifi to "always on" which circumvents this issue),
- Brightness set automatically to 25% during the day and 0% in the evening with my TASKER-profile (below). more info in root-section.
- NFC off (only on when needed)
- Bluetooth off (only on when needed)
- GPS off (only on when needed)
- charging at 6-10% remaining battery (below could harm your battery and decrease battery life over time...but this is a highly controvertial topic, so I charge at 10% to be on the safe(r) side)
- Reduce wakelocks:
- Install 'Wakelock Detector' to find partial wakelocks and alarms which wake the XZ during standby. Many unnecessary wakelocks can easily be reduced (like fastdormancy). But some may need root access. Here is a very helpful link for wakelocks: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=38629490#post38629490
- In settings > apps > all apps > select an app: Deactivate the notifications of all apps you don't want to be notified by. Can reduce wakelocks!
- Turn OFF 'developer settings' when not using it (stops their services, wakelocks)
This section will grow in time!
- Google Now off: long-press on home-button > google search > settings > turn google now off
- Let your Wifi-Router always work with 100% signal-power, wifi g+n. This way you will get better wifi-receiption with your Z (might squeeze some minutes/your phone won't connect to data unnecessarily)
- Don't overprotect your phone with metal cases over metal cases Receiption of Cell, 2G/3G/LTE, Wifi, Bluetooth etc. will decrease and your battery life too (a lot)
- Turn Restore & Backup off: settings > restore & backup
- Google Settings App > Location > Turn OFF: Location history + location protocol /summary(? don't know the english name of that button)
- Google Settings App > Search > Turn OFF: Webprotocol + search-results shall not include apps/... (deactivate anything you don't need)
- Deinstall or deactivate FACEBOOK, if you don't use it. If you really need it, change the notification settings + update settings + push-settings according to your REAL needs. This app is a hugh battery consumer and it causes far too many wakelocks which will prevent the phone from entering sleep modes (even when the phone is not being used).
- Settings > Sound(?) > Turn OFF: vibration when touching screen + sound for every screen press + sound for unlocking + xloud + sound for call-buttons
- Settings > Accounts > Google > Turn OFF: google-personalized-advertising + every synchronization you don't need (I don't sync apps and google books because I use Titanium Backup)
- Often forgotten but basic tip: Search for unnecessary settings or battery saving features in the settings of your favourite apps. E.g. many apps allow to deactivate unnecessary settings or ugly special effects/animations which drain battery. OR many apps let you deactivate (maybe in your case: ) unnecessary push notifications...
- Settings > Display > Sleep > After 1 Minute (mostly sufficient)
- Update your apps regularly, because new versions often improve performance, battery drain, wakelock-issues etc. Still: make backups!
[/HIDE]
II.1.2 TIPS I DON'T USE (but you can):
- Display brightness always at 0%
- Wifi set to "save battery when connected" (may cause problems with some custom kernels, so I currently don't use it!)
- Data/cell/wifi/bluetooth always off (e.g. if you only play games/read books)
- Calibrate your battery (this can bring back 5-10% of your battery life, depending on its condition). This tip was discussed a lot. I didn't calibrate my Zs battery yet. Everyone says something different and the manufacturers like sony give instructions for (first) battery cycles... So I leave it up to you to decide if its a myth or not
- Set all animations in dev-settings to 0 x (settings > about phone > press 10 times on the built-number > go back and now you got the dev-settings below)
- Sleep screen after 15 sec
- Turn background sync and auto-sync and google account sync OFF
-Reduce every wakelock possible by spending hours for finding their causes, deinstalling/deactivating all thats necessary to reduce it...etc...
II.2 Root-section
II.2.1 TIPS I USE
- Installed TITANIUM BACKUP PRO and deleted all bloatware/google apps/..
All I didn't need or like or which drained too much battery.
Here is a list of all deleted apps:
com.android.providers.partnerbookmarks.res.overlay
com.sonyericsson.android.socialphonebook.res.overlay
com.sonyericsson.trackid.res.overlay
com.sonymobile.connectivitycenter
Sapphire 10.0.A.0.16 (com.sonyericsson.bluetheme)
Silk 10.0.A.0.16 (com.sonyericsson.blacktheme)
VerifyCertificatesDummyApp
Xperia Twitter Setup
com.sonymobile.datadisclaimer
Anonymous Usage Stats
com.sonymobile.cameraautoupload
Backup-Restore
com.sonyericsson.lockscreen.uxpnxt
Black Hole
Bubbles 1.0
com.android.backupconfirm
com.android.providers.partnerbookmarks
com.android.sharedstoragebackup
com.google.android.voicesearch
com.sonyericsson.unplugchargerreminder
Converter 6.1.1 (com.sonyericsson.androidapp.converter)
Device Usage 1.0.A.0.11 (com.sonymobile.phoneusage)
E-Mail 4.0.1 (com.android.email)
com.sonyericsson.retaildemo
Emerald
com.sonyericsson.music.wikipediaplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.youtubeplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.youtubekaraokeplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.googlelyricsplugin
Exchange Services
Face Unlock 4.1.2-509230 (com.android.facelock)
foursquare 2012.03.09 (com.joelapenna.foursquared)
Infinite view 10.1.A.0.0 (com.sonyericsson.infiniteview)
com.sonyericsson.androidapp.memorycardinstaller
Market Feedback Agent
Mono 6.1.A.0.1 (com.sonyericsson.android.pobox.skn.mono)
com.sonyericsson.metadatacleanup
OMA Client Provisioning
Oma Download Client
OmaV1AgentDownloadServices
Picasa Uploader
Pico TTS
POBox Touch
Quartz
Remote Control Service
com.sonyericsson.vendor.backuprestore
SkinSelector
Smart Connect
com.android.voicedialer
Tags
TalkBack
TrackID
Update Center
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.application
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.platform
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.shared
com.sonyericsson.advancedwidget.weather
Wfd Service
Woody
Xperia AppShare
Xperia Calendar Sync
Xperia FB Setup
Xperia Friends’ Music
Xperia Link
Xperia Music Likes
com.sonyericsson.facebook.proxylogin
com.sonymobile.twitter.account
Xperia Share
Xperia Social Engine
com.sonyericsson.socialengine.plugins.facebook
com.sonyericsson.socialengine.plugins.picasa
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.playmemories
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.facebook_sharefrwk
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.twitter_sharefrwk
com.sonyericsson.androidapp.everchwallpaper
Google Chrome
+ all branding-/carrier-specific apps
- Installed ELIXIR2 and deactivated all kinds of entries I don't need. Examples of activities/receivers/services you can disable:
BE CAREFUL:
If you deactivate vital activities/services/receivers of an app the apps won't work properly anylonger or the app will crash. But thats no problem! Just check the apps and and activate activities/services/receivers e.g. one-by-one to find the cause of the crash and leave it activated.
Deactivate e.g. every ACTIVITY that says (differs from app to app):
-facebook.login
-.analytics.
-.tracking.
- google.ads.AdActivity
- .googleplus.
- .gtalk.
-.ads.
-.voicesearch.
And all kinds of RECEIVERS that will boot apps at boot (if not necessary):
-.onboothandler.
-.bootreceiver.
-.devicestartup.
And SERVICES:
-again: .analytics.
-.gtalk.
-googleplus.
- Install GREENIFY+donation-version (needs Xposed Framework!). Then activate all experimental options like boost mode, gcm push, greenify system apps...
and after that greenify some system apps like google maps etc. (according to your needs)
- Installed Xposed Framework and following modules:
1. "Greenify" (donation-version necessary) and activate all options
2. "BootManager". Deactivate all apps you don't want to load when starting up
3. "ReceiverStop" (if you didn't like Elixir2): Deactivate all unnecessary receivers
4. "App Settings": reduce permissions if necessary
5. "Per App Hacking": prevent services and wakelocks, but becareful...
It can cause apps to not work anymore!
6. "YouTube AdAway": especially helpful fot those watching alot. Why drain battery for ads?!
- Installed TASKER and SECURE SETTINGS (and its helper; see settings).
I currently automated following things (you can also download my tasker-backup below):
Tasker is consuming little power in the background, but is a powerfull tool.
My Tasker-Profile isn't very sophisticated. Working on it, but don't want to use other peoples profiles. You can deactivate/change any feature easily in tasker, if you don't want to use it:
- 18:00 until 08:00 o'clock (6PM till 8AM): Brightness set to 1% (in the evenings 1% is enough mostly and reduces consumption by a high margin) + Turn Rotation off
- Rotation only ON with certain apps and automatically turn off
- Hibernate with Greenify every 3 hours (sometimes the built in autohibernation of greenify won't work, so tasker triggers
- GPS ON when GOOGLE MAPS, NAVIGATION start and turn OFF automatically when closed
- Turn OFF Data when connected to Wifi since 5 Minutes
- Install BuiltProp Editor and add these lines to the end of the built.prop:
(Thanks to …… for this tip):
#signal tweak
ro.ril.enable.3g.prefix=0
ro.ril.enable.dtm=0
ro.ril.hep=0
ro.ril.hsxpa=5
ro.ril.enable.a53=1
ro.ril.gprsclass=12
ro.ril.hsupa.category=9
ro.ril.hsdpa.category=36
____
This will increase receiption by lifting 2G/3G-settings. It increases battery consumption, but over the day the better receiption makes up for that (at least for me).
II.2.2 TIPS I DON'T USE
- ELIXIR2 is hardcore...you could even deactivate EVERY button/activity/service (those which you asume you won't ever need) of all your apps...could save some processing time and therefore battery life
-Installing ES EXPLORER and deleting in the apps-folder:
fast dormancy.apk and .odex ( both ONLY if your provider doesn't support fastdormancy)
-Reducing Wifi-consumption by editing the ini-files in etc/firmware/wlan/prima/
-Reducing 2G/3G/LTE-consumption by editing their ini-files
-With Overlays (App) we can make buttons/switches hovering over apps. In some cases it could save battery (especially in combination with tasker and zoom).
-I tested wether the LTE-Switch for the upper menu will switch back the network mode to "GSM" (=2G) if I activate and then deactivate LTE... Worked! The LTE-switch turns on 2G+3G+LTE but my contract doesnt have LTE so maybe the LTE-chip won't consume anything after a first connection attempt... Then the LTE-switch would effectivly be a 2G/3G-switch for me Update: Switching back and forth is uncomfortable and automation isn't possible without deep rom-modifications... a dead end currently
II.3 Bootloader-section
II.3.1 TIPS I USE:
- Flash @alnikki25k 's custom stock kernel XzKernel
- In TRICKSTER MOD + FAUXCLOCK (!!) do following:
0. Set CPUs to 384 mhz - 1,35 ghz
1. Governor to intellidemand (settings: see below)
2. Set scheduler to 'sio'
3. Underclock the GPU to 325mhz and set gpu-scheduler to "ondemand"
4. Multicore power saving = 0
5. Dynamic FSYNC = on
6. Ecomode = on
7. Mp-decision = off
8. Intelli-plug = on
9. ZRam = off
9.1 Delete VFS cache after boot: on
9.2 Auto FS Writeback: on
9.3 swappiness: 0%
9.4 vfs cachepressure: 150%
9.5 dirty ratio: 20%
9.6 dirty background ratio: 5%
9.7 TCP congestion control: westwood
10. Read_ahead (emmc + sdcard): 2048 mb
10.1 Entropy (emmc + sdcard): off
11. Frequency Lock = on
12. In faux clock: activate c0, c1, c2 and c3 states
13. IMPORTANT TIP FOR SMOOTHNESS: Deactivate gpu's vsync (activate it if you are a egoshooter-gamer)
14. In faux clock: Set a profile for every app which does (or does not) need much performance. Here is an examples:
'Whatsapp' doesn't need high cpu-freq and 400 mhz gpu-freq to run smoothly. We can set a profile for it with these settings:
Min freq: 384 mhz
Max freq: 1188 mhz
gpu freq: 200 mhz
ecomode: on
FOR GAMES you could e.g. slightly overclock frequencies, turn ecomode off and use 450 mhz gpu-freq
14. CPU: Undervolt to these VOLTAGES (ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING !!) :
Please ONLY undervolt when you already know all about it...and undervolt slowly (in -25 or -50 mV steps e.g.)
until you reach a stable new voltage for each frequency. Always test several times with benchmarks and all your apps and for 1h at least
MY (VERY LOW) VOLTAGES MIGHT NOT WORK FOR YOUR XZ !
MAKE BACKUPS BEFORE YOU TRY ! IF YOU DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A PC: KEEP A ROM AND A KERNEL ON YOUR SD-CARD. ALSO MAKE BACKUPS WITH CWM
I assume everyone trying this will know about
the dangers of playing with voltages.
*
[Mhz : sony's standard mV : mV working properly for my Z ]
192 : ---- : 712
384 : 850 : 712
432 : 875 : 712
486 : 875 : 725
540 : 900 : 725
594 : 900 : 725
648 : 925 : 750
702 : 925 : 750
756 : 975 : 750
810 : 975 : 800
864 : 1000 : 800
918 : 1000 : 825
972 : 1025 : 850
1026 : 1025 : 875
1080 : 1075 : 900
1134 : 1075 : 912,5
1188 : 1100 : 912,5
1242 : 1100 : 935
1296 : 1125 : 962,5
1350 : 1125 : 975
1404 : 1137 : 977,5
1458 : 1137 : 987,5
1512 : 1150 : 1025
-Governor-Settings (BE CAREFUL):
As the intellidemand governor got a big update (but almost no descriptions for the new features/settings), here you get my latest settings:
Governor = intellidemand
____
freq_step = 15
enable_boost_cpu = 1
input_event_min_freq = 384000,384000,384000,384000 // #
down_differential = 8 // #
ignore_nice_load = 0
io_is_busy = 1
optimal_freq= 1350000 // #
powersave_bias = 0
sampling_down_factor = 9 // #
sampling_early_factor = 9 // #
sampling_interim_factor = 9 // #
sampling_rate = 50000 // #
smart_each_off = 0
smart_high_slow_up_dur = 5
smart_high_slow_up_freq = 1350000
smart_slow_up_dur = 5
smart_slow_up_freq = 1350000
smart_slow_up_load = 90 // *
smart_up = 0
step_up_early_hispeed = 1242000 // #
step_up_interim_hispeed = 1242000 // #
sync_freq = 810000 // #
two_phase_freq= 384000,0,0,0
ui_sampling_rate = 50000
ui_timeout = 100
up_threshold = 86 // *
up_threshold_any_cpu_load = 90 // *
up_threshold_multi_core = 93 // *
_____
If its laggy for your taste:
1. make sure its no thermal issue or related to the rom itself;
2. Turn these ( // *) down. And these ( // # ) up. But search for their meanings first!
-GPU: undervolting (ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!):
Easiest way I know (until fauxclock/trickster support this feature):
Install "universal init.d", choose any available init.d-script (custom kernels often flash some along the way), add following in it and save:
echo "930000 1000000 1100000" > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/gpu_mv_table
The numbers (e.g. 930000) are in uVolt for See alnikki25k 's XzKernel-Thread for more info! I highly recommend reading that first!
Becareful: after flashing a new kernel(-version) this added code will likely vanish.
If you know how: just make your own init.d-script, wait for fauxclock/trickster
or just readd it manually again
II.3.2 TIPS I DON'T USE (but you can):
- Thanks @Destroyedbeauty: Instead of using apps like fauxclock/trickster mod you could also just write your own init.d-scripts which would cost nothing and lead to slightly less battery drain (+5 min). I don't use this tip YET, because these apps really don't consume that much. Still a very clever tip!
III. MISC
III.1 Thanks to
People I need to thank for various reasons (in no special order):
@DooMLoRD
@alnikki25k
@gm007
@[NUT]
@Dsteppa
III.2 Translations
I'm very thankful for everyone helping me translate this thread!
(Don't forget: translations can't be always up to date and won't be monitored by me)
-French-Forum (thanks to @monsieur_debile):
http://forum.frandroid.com/topic/16...-plus-de-7-heures-dautonomie-en-écran-allumé/
III.3 Results
-Antutu Benchmark 4: Instead of approximativly 20500 points (standard Z) I currently get approx. 15000. I currently give a damn about benchmarks Will try to improve in the future as promissed
RESULTS WITH REAL USAGE (For those who think I only leave the screen on):
- with my average usage pattern (see beginning of post) in "one sit" I got 7h S-O-T with 10% left battery charge and 9 hours since last charge: See screenshots.
- With my average usage pattern (see beginning of post) on a NORMAL day going to office etc. I got 7:09 h screen-on-time with 6% charge left and 20h since last charge: see screenshots.
- (almost) ONLY reading books, xda, news with gReader, surfing and with a bad phone receiption all day(!) I got 8h screen-on-time with 3% charge left and 12,5 h since last charge.
- Playing Deadtrigger for 0,5h I lost 14% battery life (graphics set to high), so with a full charge I approximativly could get 3,5 h (consider: Deadtrigger isn't optimized very well for non-nvidia-tegra3-hardware so it uses the Z inefficiently and I played with 'high' graphic settings)
If you like what you read: press the thanks-button and rate my thread with 5 stars
One question: Was this done indoors. Like in your room or office, just sitting playing with the device?
And that was a short "stint", I mean 7 hours of screen and 8 hours since the last charge. If you counted idle times, in like a 15 hour stint, screen time would be greatly reduced, plus, if you commute the phone is constantly looking for antennas, thus reducing screen time further.
7 hours is great. But this seems to be on "ideal conditions".
As for my methods of saving battery? 2G all the time. Undervolt. No Underclock. Greenify. Stamina Whatsapp only.
The important question is, what have you been doing ? Did you play games? YouTube? Or did you just let the screen active?
Gesendet von meinem C6603 mit Tapatalk 4 Beta
sea2605 said:
Since xda and its forum helped me alot in many ways, I also want to share something with you, that might solve many users biggest complaint: battery life.
I optimized my battery life so I regularly get 7 hours of battery life (sometimes even more, see screenshot with 10% remaining battery at 7:00h screen on time)... and all that with very normal usage (but no games) and without any sacrifices for me.
Tried many (...!!) methods to optimize but sticked only with those truly making a difference after testing.
________________________________
!!
I'm going to update this thread regularly until I wrote down all details and until I stop optimizing battery life
Lets work together: Tell me your battery life tricks!
Maybe in some weeks/months we can get to 8-9 h of battery life without too large sacrifices
!!
________________________________
HOW I did it (roughly summed up for the moment):
0. Updated to 4.2.2 (no 4.1.2 didn't give me more battery life).
1. Bootloader unlocked (essential, but will void warranty).
2. Rooted
3. Flashed doomkernel v9 via fastboot
4. Installed kernel tuner and underclocked the cpus to 1,24 ghz, changed governor to ondemand,
Undervolted like this (phone is still veeeery fast! No perfomance issues!):
Coming soon
5. Installed titanium backup pro and deleted all sony bloatware/google apps/other apps... All I didn't need or like or which drained too much battery. Here is a list of all deleted apps etc.:
Coming soon
6. Installed elixir2 and deactivated google-ad- and/or google-analytics-entries in all of my apps. Also all features I didn't need in my apps (e.g. I dont want to share everything in.every app with facebook so I deactivated those entries).
I deactivated all voicesearch-entries as I don't like it yet...(Even apples siri isn't great yet in my opinion...maybe in 2-3 years . I also deactivated google now-entries (not google-search!) since it drains a lot and I don't need it.
7.
X. Rather standard things:
- My contract has no LTE so I set the network mode to wcdma/gsm,
-stamina mode on (only whatsapp whitelisted),
- battery save mode on (from 100%; excluding wifi and auto sync),
- wifi-location-based on,
- wifi set to not search for networks,
- wifi set to stay on during standby only when connected (turning off during standby might help some of you, at least those who don't look at/need their phone and need it to be instantly connected),
- Wifi set to save battery
- To be continued
________________________________
I see more potential (but some with sacrifices):
1. With Tasker (thats an app) you could get a little (or quite much) extra battery life (depending on what you are willing to sacrifice...)
2. Future doomkernels could allow for more finetuning of the cpu and gpu (e.g. gpu-underclocking hat sticks; maybe we have some luck and we could undervolt the gpu )
3. elixir2 is hardcore...you could even deactivate EVERY button/activity/service (those which you asume you won't ever need) of all your apps...could save some processing time and therefore battery life
4. Governor wheatley and optimizing it's governor settings would give more juice but it slows all too much down in my opinion...but can lead to +0,5 h!
5. Even further killing some wakelocks with betterbattery
6. Reducing tx of the Wifi-antenna (but reducing tx only helps while downloading, I guess...)
or other antennas...
7. Installing es explorer and deleting fast dormancy app and odex ( both only if your provider doesn't support fast dormancy) in the apps-folder
8. Underclocking min. Frequency to 192 mhz (might help +5-10 minutes but slows phone down a little)
9. Maybe a little further undervolting (+5-10 min, but stability might be a problem...)
10. To be continued
THIS IS NOT READY YET...please wait patiently for more details etc!
Lets work together: Tell me your battery life tricks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I easily get 8+ hours of screen-on time....my tricks for that are as follows,,
1)Root(obvious )
2) download greenify (a must-have by oasis feng)and greenify almost all apps(including games) expect some messaging apps(apps shown with gcm logo in greenify) ,,,and if you want to get that lil extra minutes then go for the donation version of greenify, it lets you greenify some system apps to....also don't kill apps with appkillers(real battery hog)
3) Switching Stamina mode On(especially after the 4.2.2 update)...and carefully selecting only "most needed" apps to be excluded (if you don't want to break notifications)
4)download startup manager..and disable all unwanted apps at startup
5)remove all unwanted bloatware and battery saving apps(they usually do nothing to save your battery,instead they run in background and eatup your battery)
6) no under-clocking, no over-clocking
7) maintain a healthy battery charge history ( don't charge unless battery is less then 20%.,,then charge without interrupting to 100%(don't keep it charging for to long if it reaches 100%,,this will over-charge the battery)
8 ) If you're on 4.2.2 ,,surely you're facing the battery bug,which is really dangerous for the battery (because it bring the battery % down to zero ,without giving you a chance to reach your charger)....So to fix this you'll need to recalibrate your battery by downloading easy battery calibration from playstore (I've calibrated my battery and fixed the bug )...the app will guide you how to calibrate the battery(easy)
9 ) Don't use the "trickle charging" method recommended by some battery saver apps...I've used that method and it shows no improvement in battery life instead it'll drain the battery in a very strange manner ("modern"Li-on batteries should not be trickle charged Google it if you need more info on this subject)
Use this tricks and you'll definitely notice improved juice
More tweaks and tricks for a better battery going to be updated soon(as soon as I'll test and confirm them)...
If you feel that I've helped you in any way,,please hit the thanks button
Sent from my Xperia ZL (C6502) using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Point nr 6 is not true. Best for batery is when working between 50-85%. Battery will not overcharge because phone turn off charging, when battery reaches 100%. You can charge phone even when reaches 90% or 60%. Dont have to wait till 20% (sooner pluged - better for battery).
Sorry for bad english. Regards...
Media Server
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
adielee said:
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you grant root access to startup manager it disables all the apps you've selected not to start at the startup...try it for yourself
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Rumman Shaikh said:
I easily get 8+ hours of screen-on time....my tricks for that are as follows,,
1)Root(obvious )
2) download greenify (a must-have by oasis feng)and greenify almost all apps(including games) expect some messaging apps(apps shown with gcm logo in greenify) also don't kill apps with appkillers..
3)download startup manager..and disable all unwanted apps at startup
4)remove all unwanted bloatware and battery saving apps(they usually do nothing to save your battery,instead they run in background and eatup your battery)
5) no under-clocking, no over-clocking
6) maintain a healthy battery charge history ( don't charge unless battery is less then 20%.,,then charge without interrupting to 100%(don't keep it charging for to long if it reaches 100%,,this will over-charge the battery)
Use this tricks and you'll definitely notice improved juice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure you get 8 hours screen on time with only that and a normal usage (see my average usage)? If yes: I'm an idiot... why did I even bother with all the other crap
adielee said:
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nomedia is a great idea ! Will try it ! :good:
ckyy said:
The important question is, what have you been doing ? Did you play games? YouTube? Or did you just let the screen active?
Gesendet von meinem C6603 mit Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Updated my first post! See "average usage pattern" on that single day.
DrKrFfXx said:
One question: Was this done indoors. Like in your room or office, just sitting playing with the device?
And that was a short "stint", I mean 7 hours of screen and 8 hours since the last charge. If you counted idle times, in like a 15 hour stint, screen time would be greatly reduced, plus, if you commute the phone is constantly looking for antennas, thus reducing screen time further.
7 hours is great. But this seems to be on "ideal conditions".
As for my methods of saving battery? 2G all the time. Undervolt. No Underclock. Greenify. Stamina Whatsapp only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In some way you could say I tested in ideal conditions as I tested only in "one sit", right (weekend, got bored; but see my
usage pattern...great battery life considering that). But nevertheless:
Roughly we can say, all these methods aggregated will give everyone at least 40-60% more battery life (in relation to their
previous battery life). Thats no exaggeration...UnderVOLTing alone will lead to approx. 15-25% more battery life
...thank @DooMLoRD and his kernel for that!
So someone who only got 4h with his very own usage pattern will now get 6h.
Someone who only played games will get 3 h instead of 2 h...
Someone with a similar usage pattern to mine will get 7 h instead of 4,5 h (my starting point when I bought it)
etc. pp.
EDIT:
even on a normal workday (not "one sit") I get 7+h screen on time and 20 hours since last charge and 6% remaining battery. See my post of 2. August !
I didn't find an option to stop searching for Wifi networks, but I installed an app from google play to automatically turn off wifi when not connected, disbled NFC because I never used it, installed Juice Defender to disable 3G when I don't need it, used greenify on most of my apps, lowered brightness a bit and underclocked and I see some substantial improvement right away.
thanks for sharing your undervolt settings, might try later.
sea2605 said:
Sure you get 8 hours screen on time with only that and a normal usage (see my average usage)? If yes: I'm an idiot... why did I even bother with all the other crap
nomedia is a great idea ! Will try it ! :good:
Updated my first post! See "average usage pattern" on that single day.
In some way you could say I tested in ideal conditions as I tested only in "one sit", right (weekend, got bored; but see my
usage pattern...great battery life considering that). But nevertheless:
Roughly we can say, all these methods aggregated will give everyone at least 40-60% more battery life (in relation to their
previous battery life). Thats no exaggeration...UnderVOLTing alone will lead to approx. 15-25% more battery life
...thank @DooMLoRD and his kernel for that!
So someone who only got 4h with his very own usage pattern will now get 6h.
Someone who only played games will get 3 h instead of 2 h...
Someone with a similar usage pattern to mine will get 7 h instead of 4,5 h (my starting point when I bought it)
etc. pp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,,I'm really getting great screen times(one thing in my favour is that we don't have LTE here in India,& I use a 2g network(since I've a great lan ) so I've disabled wcdma network type & selected only gsm) I even play some graphic intensive games for "sometime" in my normal usage ...see the attached screenshot for details of my usage... Also I would like to add that the switching on the stamina mode is a must(mainly after the 4.2 update) But I'm still trying to squeeze even some extra juice...will update with some more extra tweaks,, after I try them out
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Ill rather use the charger then unlock the bootloader and spend numerous more hours just to get a couple of extra hours screen time as if its a competition lol.
Seriously I can get 6 hours+ screentime with stock 4.22 rom, no root, no bootloader unlocking.
Wifi on, auto sync on, brightness at lowest, stamina on. All I do is read a book from amazon kindle app, lol.
Well, of course no one has to chase maximum battery life... I'm chasing for it out of curiousity... Its only a challenge
But along the way I learn something new about android, smartphone-architecture, linux, ... Might someday be useful (I'm about to study technology of information systems)
Thats all forums/xda/communities exist for: Learning something new and sharing your knowledge
My undervolt goes from
192mhz @ 662mV to 1512mhz @ 975mV on Doom's Kernel.
On FXP Kernel I could go lower. 650mV to 950mV. Although even at those voltages, battery life on CM or AOSP is like 30% lower.
rotkiv3451 said:
I didn't find an option to stop searching for Wifi networks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bump for op. How did you do that?
Turning of that it stops searching for wifi networks.
Now that I arrived home I can write my whole voltage list:
192 mhz @ 662 mV
384 mhz @ 675 mV
432 mhz @ 700 mV
486 mhz @ 700 mV
540 mhz @ 712 mV
594 mhz @ 712 mV
648 mhz @ 737 mV
702 mhz @ 737 mV
756 mhz @ 737 mV
810 mhz @ 787 mV
864 mhz @ 787 mV
918 mhz @ 837 mV
972 mhz @ 837 mV
1026 mhz @ 887 mV
1080 mhz @ 887 mV
1134 mhz @ 912 mV
1188 mhz @ 912 mV
1242 mhz @ 937 mV
1296 mhz @ 937 mV
1350 mhz @ 962 mV
1404 mhz @ 962 mV
1458 mhz @ 975 mV
1512 mhz @ 975 mV
Tested throughout 3-4 weeks. Rock solid stability.
There is a way to know beforehand if your chip can go as low voltages as this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39373866&postcount=124
First entry is deactivating the intervall-searching for wifis, as far as I can tell
sea2605 said:
First entry is deactivating the intervall-searching for wifis, as far as I can tell
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. As far as I can understand, that option just activates or deactivates the notification for open wifi networks, not the wifi scanning.
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app
mikii100297 said:
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not a big fan of not charging the phone every day. If I leave home with less than 100% chances are I don't feel confortable.