On the Nexus One YouTube channel, there are some "How it was made" videos coming out. I was watching this one: Concept & Design and at 3:23 there are 3 docks pictured. One is the desktop dock that is already for sale, the other to the left appears to be a data connection dock with a spare battery charger, and the one to the right might be the car dock.
Aux connections for the car dock? It appears to be really thin to have wires going through the frame from the connector pins, but I can't really tell.
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Hi. I broke my 3.5mm adapter, two of the connections are now broken. I soldered both wires back but I don't know if they should be soldered with a specific contact. I chose the each wire with a contact, randomly. I put the little plastic case together and, of course, it doesn't work. The sound still comes out of the speakers.
So, is it ruined? The adapter is very simple so I thought I could do it myself.
My second question is that if I buy another adapter, would I have to buy one that's stereo? I saw some descriptions on ebay and some are listed as stereo and some as mono, but they look the same.
Thanks.
My experience
octavia said:
So, is it ruined? The adapter is very simple so I thought I could do it myself.
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I did some surgery on my 3-in-1 USB Adapter and repaired it. I'd left my headset plugged into it when I put it in my bag and something must have pressed against it, pushing the socket at an angle and causing the case halves to split apart. I fully dissasembled it and when I realised the studs which the screws go into had broken clean off, it was out with the superglue with a thin bead around the edges and squashing the halves together in a rubber jawed hobby vice while it dried. It's all fixed now but as the halves are now inseperable, I cant tell you which of those thin wires goes where. The obvious choice would be to carefully inspect the blobs of solder to see which have a 'stump' of wire still embedded in them and try those but be careful because Russian roulette with the wires cannot be good for the circuitry in the phone if you get it wrong. There is a picture of the HTC extUSB pinout accessible through the Kaiser wiki and if you have a multimeter, some thin copper wire for probes and lots of patience, you should be able to work it out.
My second question is that if I buy another adapter, would I have to buy one that's stereo? I saw some descriptions on ebay and some are listed as stereo and some as mono, but they look the same.
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I've not seen a mono one but as the device I have was very cheap (under £10) and plays stereo fine, you may as well splash out on a stereo one
Bought one of these:
eBay - search for "FUZE Car Kit" - The one I bought was "C529"
Fits the Fuze like a glove... But best of all: I took the thing apart because I had no interest in FM-modulated sound and found the 3 wires that went from the quasi-USB connector to the modulator circuit board. Those three were (you guessed it) red, white, and black - the 3 wires needed for audio signal...
1. Took it apart totally removing both the switch and the modulator part
2. made a new back out of a piece of plastic
3. went to radio shack, bought a "stereo mini" (1/8) female receiver and wired it to the red/white/black wires that were going to the modulator
4. drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the side of the rest of the housing for the headphone plug
5. rewired red-to-red, black-to-black (since I removed the switch)
VOILA! What i WANTED! A cradle-style holder for the FUZE with a stereo (headphone) jack so that I can just plug in a wire to my aux-input and get my tunes through the radio without the crummy sounding modulation
Yay. Ok you guys may or may not find this useful - but just wanted you to know it was very easy and do-able.
bought exactly the same thing! the fm transmitter switches of randomly, plus I can't listen to my cd's from my car stereo.
Thinking of modding it so that I can attach a speaker.
Can you post a pic of your mod?
thanks
wanwarlock - what kind of car do you have? I ask only because you could do what I did to a "T". If you have a newer car with either a stock head-stereo that has an AUX or CD Changer input or an aftermarket stereo with one of those - then you're set! You can buy adapters on eBay that make your CD Changer/AUX input a regular RCA style input (Red/White). Then go to RadioShack and buy an adapter to go from a Stereo-Mini Female to RCA-style Male and you're done - just plug that wire into the stereo input on your cradle and you're listening to the phone... Unplug and you're listening to whatever else Let me know if you have questions
any pics...?
Yes step by step picutres please if possible i would like to do soemthing like this for my phone as well. And is there any way to get the microphone connection as well? So we can use something like this thanks
nvm: just realized the mic input thing was a usb connection. I was thinking it was the other type of connections like regular iphone headset connections.
(as requested).
The first picture is the cradle attached to a bracket I made... The Honda Pilot has a bizarre little pocket beneath the radio above the "not an ash tray" that is totally useless. I cut a piece of wood, attached a bent strip of aluminum to the wood and a piece of foam to the top of the wood (to allow for a snug fit in the pocket), drilled a few holes in the aluminum, and attached the cradle to the aluminum.
The second picture shows the cradle from the outside - the power jack and the headphone jack.
The last picture shows the wiring detail. Let me know if you have any questions -
mybikegoes200 said:
(as requested).
The first picture is the cradle attached to a bracket I made... The Honda Pilot has a bizarre little pocket beneath the radio above the "not an ash tray" that is totally useless. I cut a piece of wood, attached a bent strip of aluminum to the wood and a piece of foam to the top of the wood (to allow for a snug fit in the pocket), drilled a few holes in the aluminum, and attached the cradle to the aluminum.
The second picture shows the cradle from the outside - the power jack and the headphone jack.
The last picture shows the wiring detail. Let me know if you have any questions -
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Click to collapse
hmm interesting thanks so much for the pictures.
thanks for the pics... i imagine this wont work with the seidio case
extensive said:
thanks for the pics... i imagine this wont work with the seidio case
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Not even a little chance - the cradle fits the fuze *very* snug. So snug that I might actually sand it down a bit. With a case of any sort it definitely wouldn't fit.
This is pretty sick I must admint. However, I find myself wanting a cradle that has NO electronic connections, that way I can take the phone out of the cradle and mess with it in my hand and it still be connected to the audio cable and/or power cable.
Anyone know of a good cradle like this?
seanvree said:
This is pretty sick I must admint. However, I find myself wanting a cradle that has NO electronic connections, that way I can take the phone out of the cradle and mess with it in my hand and it still be connected to the audio cable and/or power cable.
Anyone know of a good cradle like this?
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Click to collapse
why not just get the generic holder and a car charger?
USB Head Unit
Another solution that I am going to try shortly is hooking up the Fuze via usb cable and set it to drive mode. I might need to put the music in a root folder but I will report back.
I'm trying it on a Pioneer head unit with USB functionality input.
Has anyone tried this yet?
i think it can work. not too familiar with usb headunits i.e. file structure etc. what does your manual say? theoretically should work in drive mode.
my head unit only has aux in...
I got one of the $5 docking stations mentioned in this forum a while back (Thanks guy, whoever that was!). It's fairly large for what it does and I figured it had plenty of extra room inside for some modifications, and I was right.
So, I stripped the connector and cables (as much as I could) out of the multi-adapter that was included with my Fuze and incorporated it into the dock.
I added two stereo jacks and a SPDT switch from RatShack. One jack had the L/R audio (purple and orange), one had video attached to both pins of the stereo jack (brown), and the switch had the headset sense lead (blue) and the video sense lead (grey). All of these of course had ground (silver) going to them as well. In fact, I daisy-chained them all to the same ground to save on wire.
The only thing I haven't done to it yet is connect the USB data lines (yellow and red) to the female USB connector on the back of the thing, but only because I haven't looked up which one is which yet.
Also, I snipped the wire to that inappropriately powerful blue "power" LED.
I'll post a few pics once I get them off of my phone, but it's really dead simple.
I'm too new to post links, so munge the X's with T's, but only the first two.
As you can see, it's really not much to look at. Also, I found out how to turn on the "FM Antenna headset" while Video Out is enabled: http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-284446.html
http://imgur.com/kzk1e.jpg
Very cool.. I coudl see this being very handy...
This is in my car. I have a pretty high quality headphone cable to connect the phone to my car to listen to music. Every time I plug in the cable the phone it launches google voice search, I can easily dismiss it and everything is fine but it also prevents me from using Google voice search after this.
I'm quite certain it has something to do with the phone thinking I'm plugging in a headset that also has a microphone. The thing is I've used the same setup for both the N4 and N5 with no problems.
Is there a fix for this? Or anyone else experience anything similar? I'll have to try out some new cables.
Me too. I think it is a a headset thing like you said. I would like a solution for this problem as well.
I had this issue myself. This is actually caused by a poor ground on the 3.5mm jack on the stereo system itself which is causing feedback to loop back to the phone. The phone picks up on this and thinks you just pressed a button on a headset, even if there isn't a button to press.
You have a few options:
Stream via Bluetooth if supported, and ditch the cable all together. Expect slightly less than optimal audio quality.
Break open the stereo and run a better ground to a part that isn't inside the stereo. This will void your warranty on the your car stereo.
Buy one of these, and re-wire the 3.5mm jack. This is what I ended up doing (more about this later).
If you end up doing #3, you can just plug it in and go, without any warranty voiding stuff, however it looks ugly having that box thing hang down. Here's what I did to make it look a whole lot better, but also voids warranty.
Separate the female 3.5mm jack from the stereo face plate and the radio hardware.
Disassemble the female 3.5mm headphone jack so that it's no longer flush with the plastic face plate.
Chop off the female end, and chop off the male end on the GLI (the thing I linked above in #3), and solder the two together.
Re-mount the female end of the GLI to the face plate, and tuck away the additional hardware behind the stereo
Alternatively, you can solder the male 3.5mm jack to the GLI and run that as your 3.5mm cable.
The alternative way will give less interference as there's one less connection point, but it's not optimal as the 3.5mm cable may not be long enough.
Use shielded shrink tube on all connection points, and make sure that you wrap it in some EMI Shielding Tape for the best audio throughput. The EMI stuff is optional too.
Wiltron said:
I had this issue myself. This is actually caused by a poor ground on the 3.5mm jack on the stereo system itself which is causing feedback to loop back to the phone. The phone picks up on this and thinks you just pressed a button on a headset, even if there isn't a button to press.
You have a few options:
Stream via Bluetooth if supported, and ditch the cable all together. Expect slightly less than optimal audio quality.
Break open the stereo and run a better ground to a part that isn't inside the stereo. This will void your warranty on the your car stereo.
Buy one of these, and re-wire the 3.5mm jack. This is what I ended up doing (more about this later).
If you end up doing #3, you can just plug it in and go, without any warranty voiding stuff, however it looks ugly having that box thing hang down. Here's what I did to make it look a whole lot better, but also voids warranty.
Separate the female 3.5mm jack from the stereo face plate and the radio hardware.
Disassemble the female 3.5mm headphone jack so that it's no longer flush with the plastic face plate.
Chop off the female end, and chop off the male end on the GLI (the thing I linked above in #3), and solder the two together.
Re-mount the female end of the GLI to the face plate, and tuck away the additional hardware behind the stereo
Alternatively, you can solder the male 3.5mm jack to the GLI and run that as your 3.5mm cable.
The alternative way will give less interference as there's one less connection point, but it's not optimal as the 3.5mm cable may not be long enough.
Use shielded shrink tube on all connection points, and make sure that you wrap it in some EMI Shielding Tape for the best audio throughput. The EMI stuff is optional too.
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Click to collapse
Wow! Well it looks like I'm In trouble. As my car is a Toyota Prius classic which has a cassette deck. I use a cassette adapter to a female plug adapter to a thin male plug which fits through my case. Two adapter is one too many I would guess. Thanks for your time and input on what to do to fix this issue.
Every time I connect the headphones to the Nexus 6P start Google Voice, thus interrupting several times (every minute or so) what I'm listening: music from Play music, streaming radio from Chrome, etc ...
How can I solve this problem?
Thank you.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
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Click to collapse
Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?