This is in my car. I have a pretty high quality headphone cable to connect the phone to my car to listen to music. Every time I plug in the cable the phone it launches google voice search, I can easily dismiss it and everything is fine but it also prevents me from using Google voice search after this.
I'm quite certain it has something to do with the phone thinking I'm plugging in a headset that also has a microphone. The thing is I've used the same setup for both the N4 and N5 with no problems.
Is there a fix for this? Or anyone else experience anything similar? I'll have to try out some new cables.
Me too. I think it is a a headset thing like you said. I would like a solution for this problem as well.
I had this issue myself. This is actually caused by a poor ground on the 3.5mm jack on the stereo system itself which is causing feedback to loop back to the phone. The phone picks up on this and thinks you just pressed a button on a headset, even if there isn't a button to press.
You have a few options:
Stream via Bluetooth if supported, and ditch the cable all together. Expect slightly less than optimal audio quality.
Break open the stereo and run a better ground to a part that isn't inside the stereo. This will void your warranty on the your car stereo.
Buy one of these, and re-wire the 3.5mm jack. This is what I ended up doing (more about this later).
If you end up doing #3, you can just plug it in and go, without any warranty voiding stuff, however it looks ugly having that box thing hang down. Here's what I did to make it look a whole lot better, but also voids warranty.
Separate the female 3.5mm jack from the stereo face plate and the radio hardware.
Disassemble the female 3.5mm headphone jack so that it's no longer flush with the plastic face plate.
Chop off the female end, and chop off the male end on the GLI (the thing I linked above in #3), and solder the two together.
Re-mount the female end of the GLI to the face plate, and tuck away the additional hardware behind the stereo
Alternatively, you can solder the male 3.5mm jack to the GLI and run that as your 3.5mm cable.
The alternative way will give less interference as there's one less connection point, but it's not optimal as the 3.5mm cable may not be long enough.
Use shielded shrink tube on all connection points, and make sure that you wrap it in some EMI Shielding Tape for the best audio throughput. The EMI stuff is optional too.
Wiltron said:
I had this issue myself. This is actually caused by a poor ground on the 3.5mm jack on the stereo system itself which is causing feedback to loop back to the phone. The phone picks up on this and thinks you just pressed a button on a headset, even if there isn't a button to press.
You have a few options:
Stream via Bluetooth if supported, and ditch the cable all together. Expect slightly less than optimal audio quality.
Break open the stereo and run a better ground to a part that isn't inside the stereo. This will void your warranty on the your car stereo.
Buy one of these, and re-wire the 3.5mm jack. This is what I ended up doing (more about this later).
If you end up doing #3, you can just plug it in and go, without any warranty voiding stuff, however it looks ugly having that box thing hang down. Here's what I did to make it look a whole lot better, but also voids warranty.
Separate the female 3.5mm jack from the stereo face plate and the radio hardware.
Disassemble the female 3.5mm headphone jack so that it's no longer flush with the plastic face plate.
Chop off the female end, and chop off the male end on the GLI (the thing I linked above in #3), and solder the two together.
Re-mount the female end of the GLI to the face plate, and tuck away the additional hardware behind the stereo
Alternatively, you can solder the male 3.5mm jack to the GLI and run that as your 3.5mm cable.
The alternative way will give less interference as there's one less connection point, but it's not optimal as the 3.5mm cable may not be long enough.
Use shielded shrink tube on all connection points, and make sure that you wrap it in some EMI Shielding Tape for the best audio throughput. The EMI stuff is optional too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow! Well it looks like I'm In trouble. As my car is a Toyota Prius classic which has a cassette deck. I use a cassette adapter to a female plug adapter to a thin male plug which fits through my case. Two adapter is one too many I would guess. Thanks for your time and input on what to do to fix this issue.
Every time I connect the headphones to the Nexus 6P start Google Voice, thus interrupting several times (every minute or so) what I'm listening: music from Play music, streaming radio from Chrome, etc ...
How can I solve this problem?
Thank you.
Related
Bought one of these:
eBay - search for "FUZE Car Kit" - The one I bought was "C529"
Fits the Fuze like a glove... But best of all: I took the thing apart because I had no interest in FM-modulated sound and found the 3 wires that went from the quasi-USB connector to the modulator circuit board. Those three were (you guessed it) red, white, and black - the 3 wires needed for audio signal...
1. Took it apart totally removing both the switch and the modulator part
2. made a new back out of a piece of plastic
3. went to radio shack, bought a "stereo mini" (1/8) female receiver and wired it to the red/white/black wires that were going to the modulator
4. drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the side of the rest of the housing for the headphone plug
5. rewired red-to-red, black-to-black (since I removed the switch)
VOILA! What i WANTED! A cradle-style holder for the FUZE with a stereo (headphone) jack so that I can just plug in a wire to my aux-input and get my tunes through the radio without the crummy sounding modulation
Yay. Ok you guys may or may not find this useful - but just wanted you to know it was very easy and do-able.
bought exactly the same thing! the fm transmitter switches of randomly, plus I can't listen to my cd's from my car stereo.
Thinking of modding it so that I can attach a speaker.
Can you post a pic of your mod?
thanks
wanwarlock - what kind of car do you have? I ask only because you could do what I did to a "T". If you have a newer car with either a stock head-stereo that has an AUX or CD Changer input or an aftermarket stereo with one of those - then you're set! You can buy adapters on eBay that make your CD Changer/AUX input a regular RCA style input (Red/White). Then go to RadioShack and buy an adapter to go from a Stereo-Mini Female to RCA-style Male and you're done - just plug that wire into the stereo input on your cradle and you're listening to the phone... Unplug and you're listening to whatever else Let me know if you have questions
any pics...?
Yes step by step picutres please if possible i would like to do soemthing like this for my phone as well. And is there any way to get the microphone connection as well? So we can use something like this thanks
nvm: just realized the mic input thing was a usb connection. I was thinking it was the other type of connections like regular iphone headset connections.
(as requested).
The first picture is the cradle attached to a bracket I made... The Honda Pilot has a bizarre little pocket beneath the radio above the "not an ash tray" that is totally useless. I cut a piece of wood, attached a bent strip of aluminum to the wood and a piece of foam to the top of the wood (to allow for a snug fit in the pocket), drilled a few holes in the aluminum, and attached the cradle to the aluminum.
The second picture shows the cradle from the outside - the power jack and the headphone jack.
The last picture shows the wiring detail. Let me know if you have any questions -
mybikegoes200 said:
(as requested).
The first picture is the cradle attached to a bracket I made... The Honda Pilot has a bizarre little pocket beneath the radio above the "not an ash tray" that is totally useless. I cut a piece of wood, attached a bent strip of aluminum to the wood and a piece of foam to the top of the wood (to allow for a snug fit in the pocket), drilled a few holes in the aluminum, and attached the cradle to the aluminum.
The second picture shows the cradle from the outside - the power jack and the headphone jack.
The last picture shows the wiring detail. Let me know if you have any questions -
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm interesting thanks so much for the pictures.
thanks for the pics... i imagine this wont work with the seidio case
extensive said:
thanks for the pics... i imagine this wont work with the seidio case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not even a little chance - the cradle fits the fuze *very* snug. So snug that I might actually sand it down a bit. With a case of any sort it definitely wouldn't fit.
This is pretty sick I must admint. However, I find myself wanting a cradle that has NO electronic connections, that way I can take the phone out of the cradle and mess with it in my hand and it still be connected to the audio cable and/or power cable.
Anyone know of a good cradle like this?
seanvree said:
This is pretty sick I must admint. However, I find myself wanting a cradle that has NO electronic connections, that way I can take the phone out of the cradle and mess with it in my hand and it still be connected to the audio cable and/or power cable.
Anyone know of a good cradle like this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not just get the generic holder and a car charger?
USB Head Unit
Another solution that I am going to try shortly is hooking up the Fuze via usb cable and set it to drive mode. I might need to put the music in a root folder but I will report back.
I'm trying it on a Pioneer head unit with USB functionality input.
Has anyone tried this yet?
i think it can work. not too familiar with usb headunits i.e. file structure etc. what does your manual say? theoretically should work in drive mode.
my head unit only has aux in...
I use my phone as an audio player quite a bit, but I've recently noticed and issue and I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or perhaps even overcome them. When I have my Vibrant plugged in to a power source and I plug in my headphones everything sounds fine, but if I'm plugged in to power and connect a line out cable (e.g. a male to male cable for connecting to a car stereo) I get a really nasty hiss as well as other audio artifacts. I have tried numerous combinations of different power and audio cables, headphones, and audio sinks (car stereo, home stereo, computer audio in, etc.), but the result is always consistent.
Power + AUX cable = bad audio
Power + Headphones = Good audio
AUX Cable - Power = Good Audio
Has anyone else seen/solved this with their phones?
I assume you are talking about car charger and aux out and the noise that increases as your speed increases. If that's what you are talking about I get it to. Something needs to be grounded. Exactly what I don't know. I would ask a car audio person. If I'm not mistaken all radio components ie. radio amp are grounded that's why you don't hear it. Let me make this clear nothing is broken. More like this configuration was not planned for. I'm thinking the cig lighter is not grounded by car maker. Hope this helped.
In the car audio world I seem to recall some issues with Pioneer units when an owner somehow accidentally made a bad connection. It seems that a tiny fusible link in the unit would blow, and a ground loop noise would get introduced into the system. The fix was to ground the RCA cable inputs to the stereo chassis.
Not a viable solution in this case. I also recognize this may have little direct bearing on the problem, but wonder if somehow a poor power/audio connector in the unit is/has caused the same sort of problem to rear it's ugly head.
Step 1 I think - Do you have another Aux cable to test that as a poor ground on it may have developed from just bending and twisting in normal use.
Go to radio shack and pick up a ground loop isolator. That will get rid of the feedback noise.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
I also have the same sound in my car. I remember way back when I thought I was a cool kid and rocked the big subwoofers in my trunk I had the same noise. Then I learned that you couldn't have the power cable running up to the battery and rca cables going to the head unit next to each other. You had to have them separated meaning one would have to go along driver side n the other along passenger side. I tried that and presto no more noise. Its the interference of electricity generated from the alternator. Hence, Faster the engine/ alternator goes, higher the noise pitch equalling more interferance due to the higher voltage/current running thru the power cable. Sorry for all that useless info lol!! Quick fix is don't have the power cable plugged in at the same time. The sound goes away, for me at least. Hope it works for you. Other than that I wouldn't really know how to fix it with a cell phone unless that isolator thingy that the other guy said to buy would work.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
You should tweet @supercurio
if anyone would know, he would
This has nothing to do with software. This is basically electrical interference in audio channel because the audio is not grounded and power plug from cigarette lighter USB is grounded. Get the isolator, they are usually less than $20, just make sure all the inputs/outputs are what's compatible with your setup.
Mine plugs into AUX port on the car, then i have a 3.5mm Y splitter, one end for phone/mp3 player the other for Sat radio.
Thanks for the tips guys; I think I'll pick up an isolator and give that a try. Unfortunately, the local Radio Shack only stocks isolators for RCA jacks, not 3.5mm, so I'll have to wait at least a few more days until it gets here.
The isolator finally showed up, and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for the advice.
Sweet, now get a flux capacitor and find a straight stretch of road. At 88 mph you'll be going at 88mph with a flux capacitor!
Note: TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I won't be responsible for your damage or lost of the phone because you just short-circuited your phone or what so ever, I didn't point a gun on your head and demand you to do it I'd just explored this method randomly and pure randomness, nothing else, and a brave heart maybe btw, i can't imagine how to make the phone short-circuit with just bridged the gnd and mic plate of the headset.
Since our phone are stuck in OMTP connectors forever and where newer phones/tablets/phablets are now having CTIA connectors and producing more and more CTIA standard headset everywhere. It is hard to find a OMTP standard headset nowadays (except if you want to buy Nokia phones, i mean asha series, not lumia, asha series usually implement OMTP standard connectors and headset while Lumia-s having CTIA, but who would want to buy a phone just for a working OMTP headsets, seriously... ). When you connected a wrong standard headset to your phone, you will know whats went wrong, like the sound lose the bass and vocal, mic doesn't work, handfree button doesn't work and so on...
And if good quality earphone (additional condition that's you are an audiopile, sounds quality means everything to you) out there just cost too much for you but you have a good quality CTIA headsets (eg: Samsung, Sony OEM headsets) plus you don't want to do the soldering work to change CTIA to OMTP by exchange mic and gnd cable.
Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce to you a way to convert your CTIA headset to a working earphone with only 1 piece of 1cm wire (when i say earphone, of course it mean the mic will not be able to function. Why? good question, continue reading)
HOW to DIY:
1. try to grab any wire in your house, or just cut out a cable from any of the malfunctioned wire keyboard or mouse, then cut out 1cm of copper wire from the cable, you may make extra 1cm or 2 to do the hanging work.
2. use a pliers to "apply pressure" on 1 side of the tip to make it thin just like a paper, make sure the thin wire length must not exceed about 0.5cm, the sole idea of this DIY is make a bridge to connect gnd and mic wire to cheat the phone that you just connected a earphone, and this is why the mic function will be gone.
3. then bend the thin wire tip to 90 degree, or any degree to suit you on how to hang that wire on the phone's headset connector. Again, make sure your thin wire length must not exceed 0.5cm!!!
4. insert the thin wire tip into the headset connector, not middle of course, i mean "stick to the wall"
5. the remaining wire is up to you on how to hang the wire but the thin wire must be "stick to the wall" of the headset connector. Use paper tape or glue or whatever you can get to stick the wire with your phone, don't let loose. Use your imagination.
6. then try connect your CTIA headset to your phone and play some music, check for sound quality, Is it the same sound quality that you get with other newer phone. If you found it hard to insert the headset jack, "apply more pressure" on the thin wire tip, make it thinner then test again.
7. if it works, congrats, you just made it there!!!
** if you are unsure how it does, check the picture or leave your comment(not pm), share what is not being clear in this post, allow me to refine the details of the procedure, XDA forum is all about sharing ideas....
this same procedure could convert OMTP headset to normal earphone in CTIA standards connectors too (theoretically). OR should I name it universal CTIA/OMTP to earphone converter trick?
ps: if you have a better vocabulary to replace "apply pressure" please suggest me or you found this will cause catastrophic damage on our phone, please do notice me about it!
info: i made this work on my Xperia Neo and China made tablet (RK29xx tabs) which also using OMTP connectors and i'm using Lenovo and Samsung OEM headset to test on both of them.
what is CTIA/OMTP? what are the difference between them? read: Phone_connector
This works for my Xperia NEO! Thenks Man :good:
I found a substitute for the 'headphone antenna' in the Moto G 2nd, but suspect that this will work for any phone as well. I live in a city with about 20 FM stations and do not want to suck data, nor wear those fragile buds. I always use bluetooth. What I did was just plug in a headphone plug from an old set of stereo headphones, (cord removed) and voila!
I found I scanned just as many stations with a corded headset as I received with just a plug. Depending on your area, YMMV.
Take an old stereo plug and just remove all the wiring, then file it down so it is not obtrusive. Mine protrudes 1/8"
WantToJAVA said:
I found a substitute for the 'headphone antenna' in the Moto G 2nd, but suspect that this will work for any phone as well. I live in a city with about 20 FM stations and do not want to suck data, nor wear those fragile buds. I always use bluetooth. What I did was just plug in a headphone plug from an old set of stereo headphones, (cord removed) and voila!
I found I scanned just as many stations with a corded headset as I received with just a plug. Depending on your area, YMMV.
Take an old stereo plug and just remove all the wiring, then file it down so it is not obtrusive. Mine protrudes 1/8"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming there are no shorts inside the jack, how does the phone know it's plugged in?
rouyal said:
Assuming there are no shorts inside the jack, how does the phone know it's plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was doing this a couple of years ago on an old Huawei phone. I think that it just looks for something contacting the contacts inside the phone. I had a plug cut down like this and another with a foot of cord still on it that I coiled up and tied that got a little better reception than just the plug.
rouyal said:
Assuming there are no shorts inside the jack, how does the phone know it's plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt if a short matters, but filing it down you can see two concentric rings not conntected to anything. If you are then worried, you can put a teeny dab of black caulking compound on the two rings and let it dry. The antenna is capacitively and inductively coupling to the circuitry/wiring inside the phone. If you take an alligator clip to an external metal antenna and ground it, it will still work. Generally speaking they put a series capacitor of a few pFarads in series with the driven element, so again, no shorts matter.
WantToJAVA said:
I doubt if a short matters, but filing it down you can see two concentric rings not conntected to anything. If you are then worried, you can put a teeny dab of black caulking compound on the two rings and let it dry. The antenna is capacitively and inductively coupling to the circuitry/wiring inside the phone. If you take an alligator clip to an external metal antenna and ground it, it will still work. Generally speaking they put a series capacitor of a few pFarads in series with the driven element, so again, no shorts matter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not worried about shorts, because I know that the headphone jack (the part that plugs in) should be an open circuit. I am wondering since the jack is supposed to have no resistance between the connection points (open) I don't see how the phone can even tell that one is plugged in. I'm guessing maybe the phone hole has two points of contact inside that contact, say, the common on the jack, to know somethings been inserted
rouyal said:
I'm not worried about shorts, because I know that the headphone jack (the part that plugs in) should be an open circuit. I am wondering since the jack is supposed to have no resistance between the connection points (open) I don't see how the phone can even tell that one is plugged in. I'm guessing maybe the phone hole has two points of contact inside that contact, say, the common on the jack, to know somethings been inserted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like that, the connection from ring or tip going open flips a nand gate somewhere, enabling the fm radio... Main thing is that it works for those on limited data plans, or those like myself who have ripped scores of earphone cords!
Hello people,
I've finally had enough with the headphone problems many have reported, the distorted sound and triggering voice commands. I've previously swapped the jack with a new one(had to buy a whole mid frame) and now it's started doing it again, about a month later(the original one lasted just as long).
The issue is that this phone is huge and when using it in my pocket with the headphones on, it moves that jack with every step. This wouldn't be a problem if the jack was soldered on or at least wired to the board, but instead it's just placed on top.
So I've decided I want to solder it on. I'm a bit scared as I've never soldered to a pcb board... And I might desolder other items. I'm going to hone my skills first on some other broken devices, but at this point I'm pretty sure I'll do it in the end.
Has anyone else here done this? Want to watch me possibly destroy this otherwise great phone? Heh.
Ty
Dude you're nuts. Just go get some Bluetooth headphones, it's 2016!! I literally haven't used my headphone jack more than 3-4 times in the 4 months I've owned this phone.
Also, I'm pretty sure the headphone jack isn't soldered in specifically so that if the jack moves around a little it won't cause damage to the board. This is common on most/all phones. Soldering it down would be a TERRIBLE idea. You will likely damage your phone.
Why didn't you just send it in for warranty repair?
Sean89us said:
Dude you're nuts. Just go get some Bluetooth headphones, it's 2016!! I literally haven't used my headphone jack more than 3-4 times in the 4 months I've owned this phone.
Also, I'm pretty sure the headphone jack isn't soldered in specifically so that if the jack moves around a little it won't cause damage to the board. This is common on most/all phones. Soldering it down would be a TERRIBLE idea. You will likely damage your phone.
Why didn't you just send it in for warranty repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I couldn't send it in because I unlocked it, which voided the manufacturer warranty. If I remember correctly on my old galaxy s4 it was plugged in with a cable, which was a much better solution. The reason my sound interrupts is because when it moves, it moves the pins on the board causing slight interruptions.
However the pins in the jack are long enough and soft enough that they would bend first instead of breaking the board.
And about Bluetooth headphones? I've bought 3 different sets, they either have huge controllers hanging and pulling on one side, or they are too big, or they're poor quality, I've spent more than I want to admit on different sets (see attachment).
So today I'm going to try and solder the jack, and throw this phone away if I break it and buy a small one, that doesn't put that much pressure on the jack in my pocket.
Stay tuned. I should take pictures.
No go
Well, it didn't work. I knew it would be hard to solder the little legs that where under the actual jack. Getting them all melted and touching before they cool down, without melting the plastic or the rubber around the jack was not possible in the end.
Only 2 of the 5 pads actually stuck together, and there was only a buzz coming from the headphones. I decided to open it again and remove the solder just in case something was shorted, I didn't want the sound chip to get toasted. My biggest mistake was leaving the glue on the jack, which stuck to the mid-frame. When I pulled that apart, the jack, with the two pads came with it.
I'm putting the pictures up if anyone wants to have a look at the mess, you can see in the first and second picture why my sound is interrupting: the pad is damaged from continuous friction.
The phone still works so I've lost nothing other than my time.
BTW, at the moment I'm using wired headphones to a Bluetooth adapter. Until they make smaller/lighter wireless headphones I'm stuck with this.
They got Bluetooth without the wire hanging thing that bugs ya (bugs me too) don't have a name or link right now but a quick Google search should pull them up
Ken C said:
They got Bluetooth without the wire hanging thing that bugs ya (bugs me too) don't have a name or link right now but a quick Google search should pull them up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I saw Jordan Keyes review these ones. They are too much like having screws screwed in your ears. If they can get them smaller, and still have 2-3 hours battery, I'll be interested.
I am not sure how the LG Tone type of Bluetooth ear buds are any more intrusive than regular earbuds with a cord hanging down the side of your body! They definitely last a long time for me.
bv90andy said:
Yea, I saw Jordan Keyes review these ones. They are too much like having screws screwed in your ears. If they can get them smaller, and still have 2-3 hours battery, I'll be interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about these
Use this instead, it's a taotronics tt-br05 Bluetooth wireless receiver, you can plug your wired headphones in it and use Bluetooth instead of the 3.5mm plug.
Has play/pause and volume/track change buttons. Also has a mic for calls.
Search in Amazon.
Ken C said:
How about these View attachment 3865297
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They only have 1 hour battery before you have to plug them in the little tube to charge again. The battery technology isn't there yet.
kadopt said:
Use this instead, it's a taotronics tt-br05 Bluetooth wireless receiver, you can plug your wired headphones in it and use Bluetooth instead of the 3.5mm plug.
Has play/pause and volume/track change buttons. Also has a mic for calls.
Search in Amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have actually been using this
Good option, but it wasn't great sound quality.
Anyway, I've bought a second hand Xperia z5 compact and use that now. The moto x style has become a in house tablet.