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Introduction:
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Hey everyone, I'm just posting this tirade about my problems with the X1's build quality here in case anyone else is suffering from the same problems I had, as well as some tips regarding disassembling and re-assembling the phone if you're brave/foolhardy enough to attempt repairs yourself, like me.
With contributions from others this thread could become a compendium of common hardware problems with the X1 and how to identify or fix them, as well as pitfalls to watch out for when repairing the device by hand.
I don't have any diagrams yet because I simply couldn't stomach opening up the shoddy device again to take photos.
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My X1:
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I bought my X1 on eBay second-hand (my first major mistake) so I was always a bit worried what would happen when the day inevitably came when I'd have hardware problems with the phone.
However, I bought it very shortly after the phone's release and the seller described it as unused. The phone appeared mostly unused when I received it, apart from a couple of tiny scratches on the casing.
The phone was functionally fine when I received it and showed no problems whatsoever for the first few months.
Like seemingly everyone my first hardware problems with the phone (I won't even get into the device's software failings) that developed over time were an unresponsive keyboard, cracks in the case and a non-functioning vibration motor.
The 'r' key on my X1 took considerably greater force to register a press than any other key on the device, while other keys intermittently ignored presses or interpreted a single press as 2-5 presses while typing.
The spacebar also intermittently became unresponsive, as did the 'up' key on the front-mounted optical joystick.
The vibration motor worked at first, but eventually gave only a single loud 'click' when the phone should vibrate.
The problems worsened over time and despite taking good care of the phone, the casing started to look badly banged-up - This is not a phone that ages gracefully.
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Replacement Parts
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In early December I ordered a replacement casing & keyboard from a supplier in Hong Kong on eBay (mistake #2), happyhouse.cn .
The parts were suspiciously cheap compared to the ones from non-ebay suppliers, so I assumed they would be imitation/unofficial parts, not from SE.
At first glance, the new casing and keyboard seemed like the real deal, but when I attempted to re-assemble the phone with the new parts I found that the phone's original screws didn't properly fit the sockets of the new casing and that the new keyboard didn't fit either the new casing OR the old one.
I ended up using a mixture of new and old parts to rebuild the phone.
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My Repairs
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Over the course of 'fixing' the phone, a few other problems came to light within the device's internals.
A couple of these problems were apparent as soon as I examined the device internally, while others became apparent when I rebult the device and tried to use it.
Keyboard:
The R key on the old keyboard had cracked at first, then eventually split completely into 3 parts during use. One part fell away while the other two remained stuck to the flexible plastic backing of the keyboard structure.
As I mentioned above, the cheap new keyboard did not fit the casing whatsoever (the scale of its design was wrong and it was in total 3-6mm longer than the original part).
I cleaned the original board (the plastic layer with the keys, not the circuit layer) in warm, soapy water and removed the broken R key by plucking it off the flexible backing.
I then plucked the 'r' key off the new keyboard and used it to replace the missing key on the old keyboard, with the aid of some 'Bostik Impact' adhesive.
I finally refitted the old keyboard (with a new R key) to the casing and prayed that it would still work.
It did, in the end, but the R key has less travel and tactile response than the unreplaced keys.
---Tip:---
The unresponsive (or over-responsive) behaviour of the keyboard can primarily be attributed to poor design, but the grit and dirt that enters every keyboard known to man similarly affects that of the X1 and worsens the problem.
Removing the plastic portion of the keyboard unit and washing it in warm, soapy water is a good way to at least regain the functionality that the keyboard had when you first got the device.
Vibration Motor:
I saw the physical evidence of the claim that the camera light LED is badly designed and prone to overheating, in turn killing the vibration motor.
In the original phone casing, the plastic housing that surrounds the LED had melted and resolidified over the course of the phone's life and there was minor scorching on nearby components.
The vibration motor for the device is situated directly beside the LED (to the left, while the rear camera lens is to the right) and seemed unable to function with the melted plastic in its way.
I cleared away the melted plastic but the motor still only 'clicked' when I later tested the vibration.
It seems that the motor gets burned out by trying to work when obstructed by the plastic, or the heat from the LED kills the motor internally.
One way or the other, it's dead.
---Tip:---
The recommendation to not use the light for extended periods of time on the X1 still stands, it's worrying to think of how much worse the damage could get if the light were left on longer.
It is an especially worrying issue when you consider that the light LED is so close to the main Li-Polymer battery of the phone.
Broken Side-mounted buttons:
The next problem I encountered in the original phone casing was that of the weak rubber straps that hold the side-mounted buttons (power, camera, volume-rocker) in place.
These rubber components are quite thin and weak, as well as prone to snapping when stressed.
The purpose of these straps is to hold the button in place (flush-mounted) and to provide the spring action and make the buttons return after pressing.
In my case, the strap holding the power button had weakened and the button stopped working properly, while the phone behaved as if the button was being constantly held in.
The phone constantly brought up the "Are you sure you wish to power off the device?" prompt in WinMo.
When I set about trying to remove the old button to replace it with a new one from my pack of replacement parts, the old rubber strap almost instantly snapped!
I replaced the old button eventually, but even now there is less travel in the button and barely any tactile response when it hits the internal switch on the PCB.
---Tip:---
When re-inserting the PCB during re-assembly, keep an eye on all of the side-mounted buttons to make sure that their inwards-pointing nub sits *above* the PCB and is able to reach the board-mounted switch that the button controls!
Incompatible Screws:
Beware that the screws from the phone's original casing do not properly fit the cheaper replacement casing.
This means that you will have difficulty in forcing the screws to fit (and possibly shear the heads off the screws, which is a pretty major problem in a delicate device like this where they will be difficult to remove).
If you force the screws to fit due to a lack of any replacement screws to use, they will likely not sit properly flush-mounted with the original casing, particularly on the front (touchscreen) half of the device; and this may prove problematic for the sliding mechanism.
Additionally, it means that the casing will not close properly, resulting in gaps between the casing and touchscreen as well as gaps along the sides of the device.
---Tip:---
If you must do your own repairs on the device, try to get the official replacement parts from Sony Ericsson.
Buying the cheaper replacements from eBay is a false economy and a major headache, take my word for it!
Malfunctioning Antenna:
When I first rebuilt the phone after repairs I discovered that I could only get very weak intermittent radio signals in places that I previously had full signal strength.
This problem occured only because of incorrect re-assembly by me, but it represents a pitfall that might catch someone else out when re-assembling their X1.
---Tip:---
When reattaching the Antenna unit (the black shroud that sits around the rear camera lens and which also contains the camera LED), be sure to firmly press on the left side of the plastic (where there are visible metal strips in the plastic) until you hear a click to signify that the shroud is properly attached.
Otherwise, the antennae embedded in the plastic will not properly contact the main PCB of the device and your reception for all radio antennae in the device (GSM, WiFi, etc) will be weakened or lost completely.
This problem was caused solely by my inexperienced maintenance of the device, but may be related to the weak-signal problems some people experience with the X1, at a guess.
Ammendment:
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I may be mistaken on this one! I had originally thought that this component held the antennae, but after further experimentation I've come to think that the antennae may be housed alongside the speaker unit in the other end of the phone. The tip still stands, just to be on the safe side!
Malfunctioning Speaker/Microphone:
During use early in the phone's life I sometimes found that the phone's main speaker stopped working for apparently no reason and that squeezing the casing 'fixed' the problem until it occured again seemingly at random.
Within the rear plastic portion of the casing that forms the battery compartment there is a small module comprising the phone's primary speaker and in-call mic underneath the plastic piece that contains the SE circular logo.
These components make only surface contact with the main PCB of the phone and are not soldered in-place.
In my case, the small copper contacts that extend outwards from the speaker unit had become flattened somehow within the device and no longer reached their counterpart contacts on the main PCB when the device was closed-up.
---Tip:---
Extending the speaker contacts outwards with a fingernail seemed to rectify this problem for me.
Be sure to tightly screw the module back in when you're done, just to make sure of the circuit-contact.
Touchscreen Ribbon-cable:
This problem was mentioned by others in a thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=561151
I very rarely encountered that problem in my typical usage of the X1, but after my repairs this issue seemed to become exacerbated (probably due to strains placed on the ribbon cable during my reassembly of the device numerous times).
Currently my touchscreen works as it should in portrait mode, but I cannot extend the keyboard, as this causes the screen to still display a signal, but not respond to any touches.
Upon sliding the keyboard back in, the touchscreen is out of the alignment by about 5-6mm every time until I re-align it under WinMo settings.
In an attempt to fix this problem I covered the exposed portion of the ribbon cable with thin insulating tape, in the hope that this would stop the traces of the cable shorting against the metal casing.
Unfortunately, this hasn't proven enough and I have not yet solved this issue.
It looks as though I need to buy a replacement ribbon cable and fix the device that way.
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---Other Tips:---
+ Make sure you have all the tools you need.
Replacement parts come with the necessary tools, but if you don't get those you're going to need a tiny phillips screwdriver, a tiny 6-point star-headed screwdriver and a thin, stiff implement such as a credit card or guitar plectrum to open the casing.
I also recommend a snipe-nose pliers and a tweezers for more delicate parts.
Adhesives & Bonding Agents can be useful in certain applications, but use them sparingly (or don't use them at all, to have any chance of making the phone look untampered for warranty purposes!).
+ Don't expect cheap replacement parts to fit perfectly!
They're cheaper for a reason, you get what you pay for, except in the case of the phone itself.
+ Be gentle with all of the components.
The Xperia X1 feels nice and sturdy when it's assembled, but the individual components can be flimsy and brittle when separated.
Everything from the plastic casing to the circuitry inside needs to be handled with care and treated gently to avoid being broken.
That's everything for now, but if I think of any more issues or tips I'll amend this post.
Please feel free to comment with other issues and any other maintenance tips you've discovered and we can build a useful list for people to refer to.
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Conclusion:
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Before opening my Xperia I didn't really know what to expect inside.
I'm very familiar with computers and I build my own systems as a hobby, but my knowledge of circuit-level electronics is limited and I have no prior experience of manually repairing devices like the Xperia.
My experiences show that some of the common hardware problems can be resolved by the end-user with some patience and the right tools or parts, but one needs to be extremely careful not to end up with more problems than one started with!
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Disclaimer:
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I won't be held responsible for any damage you do to your phone and I do NOT recommend that you actually perform any of these procedures.
It is better to let qualified technicians at SE's Warranty Service handle these issues.
I'm providing this information solely for those people who either want to do it or have no other choice to get their phone working again.
The information presented is a combination of information collated from guides that I've linked herein and my own experience but I cannot guarantee their accuracy beyond that.
Treat everything in these informational posts as opinion or observation, not fact!
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Links & Other Information:
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This post will contain any other helpful information or links pertaining to the disassembly, repair and reassembly of the X1.
This is Cellular Nationwide Network's selection of spare parts for the X1:
http://cnn.cn/shop/sonyericsson-xperia-c-28_638.html
This online store also offers the X1 replacement LCD/Digitizer unit:
http://www.formymobile.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=x1lcd
I have not bought from either of these stores nor can I verify the quality or compatibility of the items they offer!
I'm just listing them here in case people have trouble finding anywhere to get parts!
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Disassembly Summary:
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The device needs to be disassembled in the correct order as laid out on this page: http://www.formymobile.co.uk/xperiadisassembly.php
-Remove battery cover, stylus, battery, sim card & micro sdhc card and put them aside.
-Remove the plastic portion of the bottom-rear of the phone (where the SE circle is), using the proper tool, a credit card or a plectrum.
-Unscrew and remove the speaker module
-Remove the screws where the speaker module was
-Remove the covers over the screws at the other end of the phone and then the screws themselves (using the star-headed screwdriver)
-Remove the plastic battery compartment (which also takes the camera cover and stylus slot with it)
-Lift the small black tape and disconnect the plug that powers the camera LED
-Remove the screw in the top-right, then left the black lens-shroud it was holding down.
-Remove the small plug on the ribbon cable at the top-right (this connects the keyboard unit to the main PCB
-Pull the clips around the edges of the green PCB back gently to release it (but do not pull it upwards).
-Lift the PCB gently and (Very) gently remove the orange tape that covers the touchscreen ribbon cable attached underneath, then pry that ribbon cable's connector away from the connector on the green PCB.
-Lift the PCB away and put it aside
-The keyboard circuit and plastic pad can now also be lifted away if necessary.
--- This is where you can stop if your repairs/maintenance only affect the rear portion of the device. Only go further if you need to perform repairs on the front/touchscreen portion. ---
-Remove the four shallow screws underneath where the green PCB previously lay to separate the rear housing from the slider mechanism.
-Remove the four screws in the front portion of the phone, then pry the casing open with the tool/card/plectrum as before.
-The main ribbon cable is attached to a small PCB and some other ribbon cables which are concealed underneath the grey fuzzy foil on the surface in front of you.
-That foil can be removed but it is not necessary to do so unless you are replacing the LCD screen unit, receiver-speaker, front-camera or the ribbon cable assembly itself.
-The Touchscreen component is held down with small grey braided straps at the corners, peel these back to release the touchscreen from the front fascia.
Then do all of that in reverse to put the phone back together!
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Videos:
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I found these videos on youtube, I didn't record or upload them.
Video guide to Disassembling the Rear half of the device:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y
Video guide to Disassembling the Front half of the device:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGUbxFqvyc
Video guide to Reassembling the Front half of the device:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcDqyEyC_HY
Video guide to Reassembling the Rear half of the device:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0sOaIo6724
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Personal Comment:
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It goes to show that, as many of us are already aware, you must pay a premium price for this phone but it is NOT manufactured like a premium product.
If my situation were rare or I had only one of the above mentioned hardware issues with a new phone I could accept it, but things got ridiculous with the X1.
The build quality is very poor overall and Sony Ericsson should be ashamed firstly for releasing a device onto the market that functioned as little more than a flawed prototype for the X2; and secondly for charging upwards of €600 for the 'privilege' of putting up with its many problems and shortcomings.
I for one, won't be buying any more SE phones.
My next smartphone will be an Android device such as a Motorola Milestone if I ever pluck up the courage to spend that much money on a phone again.
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Disclaimer:
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I won't be held responsible for any damage you do to your phone and I do NOT recommend that you actually perform any of these procedures.
It is better to let qualified technicians at SE's Warranty Service handle these issues.
I'm providing this information solely for those people who either want to do it or have no other choice to get their phone working again.
The information presented is a combination of information collated from guides that I've linked herein and my own experience but I cannot guarantee their accuracy beyond that.
Treat everything in these informational posts as opinion or observation, not fact!
Useful post, but it really seems that the majority of your issues were caused by the imitation housing that you purchased, not by poor SE build quality. Of all the issues you mentioned, the keyboard issues are an SE/HTC quality control problem, I've experienced them as have many. The rest seem to have been caused by the imitation housing. This begs the quesiton, why didn't you just use SE's warranty service? They don't require a reciept or that you be the original owner. And trust me, they are several times better than HTCs warranty service.
sonus said:
Useful post, but it really seems that the majority of your issues were caused by the imitation housing that you purchased, not by poor SE build quality. Of all the issues you mentioned, the keyboard issues are an SE/HTC quality control problem, I've experienced them as have many. The rest seem to have been caused by the imitation housing. This begs the quesiton, why didn't you just use SE's warranty service? They don't require a reciept or that you be the original owner. And trust me, they are several times better than HTCs warranty service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd hardly call the problem of the non-fitting screws a majority! The rest of the issues were unrelated to the cheap replacement housing.
Maybe my post is confusing, but the issues with the keyboard, vibration motor, ribbon cable, side-buttons & speaker all existed long before I ever ordered the replacement casing!
Some, such as the ribbon cable and antenna were issues that cropped up or were worsened due to my inexperienced maintenance, but everything else was a fault of the build quality of the original device.
The incompatibility of the screws was the only problem specifically caused by the new housing, while its own supplied keyboard didn't fit the chassis, but that was a non-issue since I used the original keyboard anyway.
It could be said that my repairs would have gone significantly smoother if I had bought and used an official replacement housing from SE, but that would only solve the issues of the screws and replacement keyboard.
I put emphasis on the problems related to the cheap replacement casing primarily to warn people away from wasting their money on them the way I did.
I'll edit the original post for clarity.
To answer your question, I didn't use the Warranty service because frankly I assumed they would need a proof of purchase for the warranty (since most warranties do in my experience) and I had bought the device second-hand on eBay.
Secondly, sending the device in for warranty would mean going through the hassle of reflashing a stock rom and SPL to the phone.
Thirdly and most importantly, I wanted to try doing it myself for the experience and potential savings.
Obviously, I wouldn't recommend anyone to try and repair their own phone as I did, but if someone has had a phone sent back to them marked as "tampered" by the warranty service and are left with the options of paying for repairs, paying for a new phone, or buying parts and repairing it themselves.. well that option is there and this thread might help them.
Also, off-topic but I couldn't agree more with your signature. I tried a myriad of fancy ROMs and shell replacements for my X1 but never found satisfaction until I flashed a basic blank WM6.5 ROM and installed PointUI Home2!
Thanks this post helped me out, I suddenly lost my mic, took a look under the hood and found I had the same issue as you, the mic pins not touching. The pins are very weak so had to be careful but it works now!
tumpin said:
Thanks this post helped me out, I suddenly lost my mic, took a look under the hood and found I had the same issue as you, the mic pins not touching. The pins are very weak so had to be careful but it works now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to help!
Definitely the most thorough repair and tips guide for the x1. A lot of the issues you had are the same as mine. Thanks to your suggestions I got my phone in almost working condition. Now I just need to find a way to get my keyboard working again.
Sent from my xperia x1 using XDA App
Thanks Zurechial for this thorough post. I for one, have been lucky in finding a repair guy (non-SE) who is an expert with devices like the X1. I had a problem that some water/moisture/sweat had seeped in the charging port and I could not get the phone to charge. He fixed it for me.
Now the only problem I face is that the camera is not working, and wifi is disabled. Any tips to get the Wifi working? It is shown as disabled in the Comm Manager and there is no WLAN MAC Address also for it.
brilliant post, thank you very much indeed. I have just ordered a cheap housing off ebay, i know what to expect now
What worries me the most though, is how the keyboard WILL fail eventually ><
The qwerty keyboard is one of the main reasons why i got the phone.
time to snatch back our lives suckers
Apparently, it's taken less than 20 years, to destroy the Consumer Electronics Industries, ability to Repair products, sold in this country. I saw the writing on the wall, in the early 80's, with the first lines of "off shore", throw away VCR's, that were priced cheaper than they'd cost to repair. The theory, if it breaks, throw it away & buy a new one. Who cares if it winds up in a land fill somewhere.
Now, we're up to $500 Cell Phones, with the state of repair being either, unit replacement, or, cannibalization of parts. And apparently no one cares. Is it our complacency or can we really afford as a society, to buy a new phone every time one breaks? God knows we're all desperate, for our phone usage.
It's time to snatch back the repair ability we once had. This is the age of recycling, and the highest form of recycling is repair.
As consumers, start demanding access to schematics, and, access to sources of component level repair parts.
IM
You help me...
I'm almost freaking out when signal on my phone show only 2 bars...
Anyway...
it's for additional information,
use handscoon, it gives somewhat confident and when using tweezer, hold it like using pen (I learnt it when I studied as paramedic) because it will give me strength while holdin it.
AND ask the seller to send housing with screw. I bought 2 housings, from ebay and another hongkong shop. Ebay is s%ck but that other hongkong shop is more fit.
Related
Hello
I have managed to come to the conclusion that the original cause for the d-pad failures is NOT the loose connector as described before. this connector is in fact surprisingly sturdy.
the problem lies with the little black IC on the keypad membrane.
i am taking my hermes tomorrow to my friends' phone repair shop and he is going to heat the IC up for me and allow it to reseat.
i shall report back tomorrow.
------------------------
just in case your wondering, i came to this conclusion by purposefully 'un seating' that IC and lo and behold, intermittent white screen and d-pad failures. however if i applied pressure to the IC it allowed it to make contact and it worked again, let go and white again.
many thanks
It will be interesting to hear the results on this BUT -
I'm not certain I agree with your methodology here though. I am not surprised that deliberately un-seating the IC causes a white screen! In all probability removal of any number of components will cause a white screen! AND of course heat gunning it again to re-establish it's connections will make it work again!
Unfortunately this does not prove to me at least that the IC is the problem for most people. If I remove a capacitor from my TV and the picture goes, I cannot conclude that everyones picture problems are related to that capacitor. The D'pad connection though it may appear sturdy has a set of very fine connections and it only takes one to be fractionally bent or oxidised for you to get the whitescreen or indeed a poor connection of any component or connection.
However the IC was reported on in the loooong white screen thread where some folk found that placing padding on the IC surface or squeezing it would correct the white screen and thereby concluded that it was an IC connection fault.
Of course the problem is IMHO that there are several possible causes and any individual person can have one or a combination of things causing the white screen. So far we have as possible causes:
D/Pad connector (must be seated firmly and FLAT but neither over tightened nor too loose. The pins may also get slighly bent or oxidised so cleaning them or fractionaly bending them may work
The D/Pad IC may have poor contacts.
The LCD Flex cable may have cracks (but less likely in my view)
Some have reported capacitor faults (possibly poor connections or degradation with heating or current draw) on both D/Pad and M/board. These faults may be related to the whitescreen only appearing after 10 or so minutes of use and recovery after switching off for a while.
Heating up - in some cases the whitescreen only appears when the phone is warm/hot. This may be caused by expansion of the multi-layered board causing poor contacts / or possibly components not performing correctly due to heat or current draw.
Often some of these whitescreens can be made to disappear by putting pressure on certain components / connections or even in some cases by squeezing the phone casing near the D'pad area. So all in all it is likely to be poor contact somewhere, it's just that it can be in several possible locations - including but not exclusively the D-Pad IC.
Mike
first of all, can i just say what an honour it is to have you comment on one of my threads!
second of all, i am only trying this as a last resort to revive my hermes before i jump ship to the raphael/diamond. or unless i decided to buy a new keypad PCB for it in the hope it will fix it!
i shall report back as soon as ive been down to the shop
many thanks
hi there
i had the white screen initially and although intermittent was useable, then, progressively got worse. countless reseats of the cable, time and time again, including put 'foam' in the places indicated then i did indeed notice in that post about the ic
so, i decided to experiment with the IC. first two layers of paper on top, made some difference in that i had to apply less pressure to get it to work, and then i though, id heat it up slightly using a hairdryer (only thing i had to hand!) and a nozzle made out of a drinks can and just pry it up gently. and indeed the white screen was permanent although the phone otherwise was functioning.
so, i'm taking it down to my mates tomorrow or as soon as i get a chance and he's gna have a go at reseating it using his fancy hot air gun rework thingumajig
i would definetly go for the raphael! for the sole reason that it has a VGA screen! (im an ebook nut!) and it looks beautiful!lol
will keep this post updated
i have to agree with mike on this ,there are many problems that can cause the white screen problem. But i am betting that heat is the major culprit,wether it is the IC you mention ,is another discussion, unless of course your friends attempt at reseating the IC cures the problem ,once and for all. Good luck anyway. I am keen to find out if it was successful or not
Hi there
well, he had a look at it under some fancy microscope and confirmed the IC was not sitting 'true' meaning not 100% level, he also used some little jig he had which he sat the board in and it confirmed it wasnt level
so, he heated it, and allowed it to reseat and we tried it again and it appears that did not solve it. we used another flex cable from his own spv and it still didnt work, my cable ran beautifully in his spv too though.
so, im going to find a replacement keypad pcb now and go ahead and buy it and see if i can get it to work
Hi
ive been hunting for the last hour and i cant seem to locate a d-pad anywhere
if i was to use a cingular 8525 d-pad in my vario II it would still work, just button orientation would be different wouldnt it?
do you know of anywhere where i could get one?
I'm having whit screen prob on my wizard and a complet housing case change. I didn't know a keyboard can cause white screen. I was looking to buy a new flex cable. what's the ic and who do I heat?
Oh disaster. My ExtUSB port just expired.
I think I saw a piece of trace fall out, and now I am getting a 'USB device not recognized' message on all my PC's and with verious cables. It is charging still, but no logic connection.
I read somewhere the connector on HTC is bad anyway, it uses PCB traces in stead of real connector leads. And when I first bought it, I wondered why eBay sells replacements
But the replacement one seems to have real connectors, not a piece of PCB. So it is either better, or it will not fit...
Well, I am going for warranty first anyway. I still have stock ROM luckily, but I did drill a 1mm hole over the soft-reset button.
Just out of interest and in preparation: Has anyone ever replaced this component? I have in the past soldered small surface mount SMD chips, which experience taught me it can be done, but is far from fun or easy.
Also, anyone can confirm the HTC ExtUSB connector typically uses PCB traces, and/or if this replacements will fit?
Thanks
Edit: Managed to locate my watchmakers loupe, and the connector has proper leads with a small spring-bend at the end. Some of these bends seem flatter than others, so that may be the problem.
Edit2:
Well, I fixed it, but not the way one may expect. No soldering or opening the device or any other possible voiding of warranty involved.
As stated, looking up close with a proper 10x watchmakers loupe, I found that the ExtUSB socket did have proper leads, the middle ones bend slightly different than the outer ones. Touching them with a needle showed all still had a good spring action, and they seemed to be OK, only a little far back. Also, I found one cable that did work.
The middle leads in a mini-USB plug are also a little further back then the outer 2. I decided that under normal conditions they already barely touch, and usage may have bend or wore the middle leads back ever so slightly. Just enough to make them fail to reach each other.
So, with a fine grained grinding stone, I removed about 1/2 mm from the mini-USB plug on a cable. Take care to grind so you do not pull the leads away from the plastic. I guess you can also use fine sandpaper on a fixed surface, especially if you do not have a fine grained stone. After that, the connection works.
I do not consider this an advised solution, especially if you can claim warranty. But the fact I had already drilled a hole for easy access to the reset button, and the fact I would be without phone for a time, made me try and fix it myself.
my old polaris had a similar issue, and i took it to a local cell phone repair store. i was told these connectors partially break all the time. 20 dollars and 20 minutes later, my pda was fixed. consider having it fixed locally before sending it to htc and losing it for weeks
Hi XDA peeps.
I would like to share my notes and pictures of my recent repair i performed on my touch HD. If you end up suffering from the Newton_Ring problem or cracked lcd, and decide to purchase a factory assembled LCD + Digitizer, you can use the Official Service manual and this thread, to perform the repair.
The Battery and the Battery cover have been removed.
Lower mainboard cover and inner housing have been removed
the Digitizer & LCD (preassembled) replacement Part, beside the damaged Blackstone.
Removal of the GPS Coaxial cabling.
I'll skip past the wifi coax removal, but will like to note that you will find a spare coax socket on the mainboard next to the wifi one, so dont get those mixed up when reassembling it!!
both Coax cables removed. (bad quality picture)
Removal of the Ribbons Mylar
this is the removal of the Ribbon plug.
Removal of the Volume buttons and its petite PCB. Take your time, dont break the ribbons or damage the pcb trying to remove this.
Removal of the mainboard phillips screw.
Power PCB slot removal, this ones tricky.
Unplugging of the 5 megapixel main camera, a nice and easy step.
Note: Please be aware that the whole Top PCB is very fragile and does actually bend, hence the term Flex PCB, be gentle with this component.
You wont see this part of the repair listed in the official manual, infact when I had a google around, there was little to no information on howto perform this anywhere.
Let me make one thing certain, if you've just spent like an hour on the above, while following the Official service manual, squinting at the poor quality photos (or my poor quality photos ) and you're feeling a little impatient, take a decent break before attempting the above!
Because, for the above procedure, you need to tear off the 3 layers of Digitizer and LCD from the front of the phone, if you don't take your time with how you do it, you'll dent your frame (a lot).
you won't find this in the service manual, if you worked out its significantly easier do a factory pre-assembled Digi+LCD replacement, and if you don't purchase the housing along with LCD and Digitizer, then you'll need to take the front Speaker piece grill, and transplant it to the new part.
Note: that you don't need to add any extra glue to perform any of this.
Next you simply gently fold a ribbon so you can place the new part into the old frame, and you'll end up with something like this:
I also did a lot of very minor aesthetic damage to the inner area of the frame, between the frame and the touch screen.
Take your time to prevent this, also if you don't care for the old part at all and aren't replacing a LCD or Digitizer standalone, you can pretty much gain access to the layers from one corner then tear the layers away from the glue with your hands.
Next proceed to rebuild the phone following the above in reverse or keep following the service manual (or both, is probably the best way IMO)
Note: Don't forget to place the camera back into the reassembly as you're re adding the coax wires. The service manual won't instruct you to do this.
Install back your flexible and mainboard pcb. as above.
The above is with all the boards, cables and camera installed back into place.
Verify the replacement part is good before fastening in the shell casings.
Lastly the two shells are fastened back on and the battery is put back into place.
Note: When installing the main shell, be very considerate of the camera, while at the same time, ensuring that none of the coaxial or the vibrator cable falls out of their desired places.
OK, if you have the HTC Service manual PDF, and need to repair your Blackstone (and want to DIY), it can be done albeit some instructions are clearly omitted from the official service manual.
One final note, When researching on what part to use to perform the repair of my Blackstone mobile, I read a great many people have attempted to repair their Blackstones and failed miserably, so even if you're savvy with repairing small electronics, the general suggestion is to get a pre-made digitizer & LCD, it is without a doubt well worth the price difference of a Digitizer or LCD standalone.
Thank you for taking the time to check this out, I hope someone may find it useful and save them from a bit of misery.
you are fantastic! i will try to replace the screen in next days...your guide is the best!
very thanks
excume friends, but i'm from venezuela...... i buy a HTC TOUCH HD in miami, the february 2009, ,i phone present this problem, the LCD work fine, but the touch no responding, anybody know where can buy it...... i don´t know how call the replace..... digitalizer, LCD.... how???
Thanks and excuse me by me bad english........ i know, soooo bad.....
Believe me it's almost imposible to replace just digitizer.
I have similar problem few weeks ago, and I buy pre-made LCD+Digitizer and replace it without any problem. I bought my from ebay. UK reseler. 65 euro. I heard that you can find it for lower price but I was searching on ebay.de so maybe on US ebay you can find for less money.
Don't bother to replace just digitizer, just to go 40$ less. Sometimes is batter to give 40$ more but to do job without any problems. (PS It's very, very hard to detach factory attached LCD from frame without braking it!)
Good luck!
Thank you so much, look for us on ebay or on amazon.com to see them .... any questions do not hesitate to do that around here ...... thanks again
Greetings, I got this on ebay usa,
h**p://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-Touch-HD-T8282-Digitizer-Screen-Repair-Part-TL-/290471976452?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item43a17a9e04
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
... What do you think? Does this serve me?
my baclstone started acting funny with screen alignment getting messed up and than it completely stopped responding...
even the touch sensitive hardware buttons donot work no more...i have hard reset many times did task 29. i have changed different roms and went back to stock rom but screen doesnt respond at all... not even the backlight turn on to full brightness when screen is tapped?
anyone have any idea whats broken lcd or digitizer or both... or maybe something else.... and there is no official htc repair shop so i probably gotta fix it on my own
Got Touch HD from someone I know.
He has scratches on the fone screen, so he decided to DIY by replacing the screen, he did not manage to screw everything together so he gave it to me...
I have tried to follow instructions both here and another thread which points me to videos that I can watch...
The problem is that I have black screen, I can hear the sound when turned on. Just no life on screen.
The screen was super glued on so there was no reponsibility of removing and check if eveything OK.
Could it be that the screen defect?
Have google but found no info on how to attach screen to the fone !!!
There was just one ribbon cable, I believe from the screen to the main borad and it is attached to the main board....
OK
Have had some free time over the weekend, disassembled the phone and found that 1 of the fles connectors was loose. Reconnected and all was perfect...
Now I have a fully working phone
Thanks for the guide....
Don't try to replace only the digitizer...i suggest to disassembly the phone first to buy the digitizer.. to see how much is hard to detach to lcd without broke lcd! if you can detach you can buy only digitizer!
i bought the digitizer but i broked my lcd to try to change...with Lcd+touchscreen's block I ve changed in 10 minutes and it is perfect!
Glad to see this has helped others.
My main intention was to cover the steps missed by the not so comprehensive service manual, if it was more comprehensive i probably wouldn't have started this thread to show how I repaired mine. was quite a few too many important steps missing really. (re-adding the camera, etcetera)
Hi all,
I just replaced the lcd screen of my blackstone and got a new touch screen, I put all together but the touch screen seems to be dead. Is there anything I should check? you always talk of touch panel and digitizer like two different layer, does this mean that I should have 3 different pieces (LCD - digitizer?!? - plastic touch panel)? Because I only have two, the LCD and the "glass" with an outgoing flat cable. In the case I am not missing anything, should the touch panel work even if not in contact with the screen ?
If you got one pre-assembled (which we call LCD + digitizer), it would actually just be one whole piece.
If you have two pieces, then you have a LCD screen (the glass one AFAIK) and a plastic layer (the digitizer)
My replacement part came in as one, and in the OP I disassemble, and remove it and place the new on in the old ones spot.
Sounds to me like youve gotten the parts not pre-assembled by the manufacturer, unfortunately its common for non- pre assembled ones to not make contact to eachother properly when you assemble it, some people reported being able to do it, and others from what i've read found either partial or no touch capability, but it would likely be the digitizer contacts are not touching the LCD contacts (kind of a ribbon on the plastic piece)
It maybe worth just getting a pre-assembled replacement. if youve already used the current one and cannot fix it.
No it's not preassembled but you probably solved my problem. you basically say the touch panel and the LCD MUST be in touch in a specific point to close some contact (maybe the lower LCD ribbon must touch the lower part of the touch panel?)!! If you confirm that than probably that is my fault. I've seen some videos on youtube where the touch panel works even if it's away from the LCD but it was not a blackstone and probably not a resistive touch panel.
Please confirm I got it right, you probably saved my blackstone.
as far as i know, the digitizer will have some kind of ribbon, on the LCD theres contacts or a socket for that ribbon, you can see (poorly) in the pictures I took, where I show the LCD and digitizer and a layer (digitizer and face place layers) of torn apart.
I looked around my room for my old damaged screen but unfortunately I can't find it I think I may have disposed of it.
lucky, ebay type sites do have some pictures of the digitizer and its ribbon as you can see in this picture - link (I googled this and found it here
that ribbon would likely attach to the lcd panel, I'm quite sure if they aren't making proper contact the touch won't work.
But, having said that, before I made this thread, while reading about others who did a repair without a pre-assembled part, they mentioned that the digitizer part contained many tiny bubble like resistive cells in the digitizer layers, its imperative you don't damage the any of these touch cell things, because if they somehow get damaged, even if you get the digitizer ribbon to make proper contact with the LCD board/slot/contact (which ever its supposed to plug into), if those tiny cell break in the digitizer the touch wont work (could be partial, or could be overall interoperability) and if that happened, it would be a circumstance where you'd need to source another digitizer.
this is more or less an elaboration on my prior post I think.
What I can say for sure is before I fixed mine, after some searching around on these forums and on others, I found that most of those who did not get the digitizer, face plate and lcd factory pre-assembled did not fix their handset (only a minority did), they either ran into a problem with the digitizer making contact with the lcd panel, or they somehow damaged the digitizer resistive cells.
Also, since I did do mine with a pre-assembled part, I cannot say absolutely that the resistive cells will be between the faceplate layer and the second layer of the digitizer replacement part (like you see in my pictures, I ended up with 3 layers) it could be that the resistive cells are exposed on the back of the last layer and need to sit against the lcd, once again though, I'm not sure about it because I did opt for the more expensive easier choice to fix mine up.
Hope you get it all working smog
No way, tried to push lcd and digitizer together without any result. I don't believe there is something that can be broken on the back of digitizer (Resistive cells???) but I hope you are right, I am waiting for a housing I bought from HK it's complete with a new digitizer ... we'll see
Thanks a lot
Hello, great guide but I am still having a problem and I wonder if it's with what I bought; Off ebay I got the plastic and the glass attached to each other as I assumed thats all I needed because my lcd works fine. So I connected it all up and it only slightly works, where you touch the screen is actually showing up as quite a bit below (depends where - top left corner works fine but if you click the center of the screen the phone thinks you're clicking at the bottom).. I have tried calibration with no luck.. Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Afraid that theres not a lot you can do, if you havent fully reassembled it yet you could try reapplying the digitizer layer but I think that even trying that could make it worse then it is.
Like i said a few times, I wouldn't try replacing the digitizer on its own, I read up on it before repairing mine and concluded it was too much risk or trouble and just got an all in one lcd + digitizer which I used in the guide.
anyway these phones are quite old now, its hard to justify spending on an LCD and digitizer to fix one up.
you need to decide if thats worth it to you or not.
Infact, my blackstone has Newton rings again on the replacement screen, im not certain what squashed against it hard enough to cause them but it happened recently, the digitizer on mine is still working even with the newton ring damage so Im not planning on replacing the screen again.
Okay thank you very much for your help,
Are they still good phones though? I have a nokia 5800 from around the same time and i'm bored of it now but can't afford a new one so i bought this one really cheap as broken and was just going to fix it.. Or is it not really that much better?
Thanks again for your answer
they're considerably faster then nokias usually, i had the 6600, 6260, 9300i and they were all considerably slower ARM processors.
but It will all come down to what OS you run on it, if you do put a WinMo 6.5 rom on it it will be slow to the degree where its unusable. but if you use a 6.1 rom on it then it will never suffer from slow downs (unless the rom is hybrid 6.1 with 6.5 stuff like the one i use).
It also can do heaps of stuff the nokia can't, assuming your nokia is a series 60 or similar.
the Os can do tethering and heaps of other neat things, winmo also has got a fair range of apps, tho dated now, the variety is nice and gives you functionality, you could obtain a lot of this on a nokia symbian phone but winmo (based on wince) is just even better then symbian.
I think it all comes down to how much it will cost you to fix, I have a better phone so i cant justify spending over 50 dollars on fixing a slower older one, but to someone who doesnt have a better phone it may be quite viable to spend that to benefit the improvement over their current worse phone.
ideally, I would say just skip over it, its not truely that fast, you need at least a gigahertz phone to be fast. a HD2 or something, if you can get one like that quite cheap and in good condition, it would be worth more then spending a bit on the blackstone (touch HD).
just my opinion though
I would repair my blackstone again because i get use out of it each time its healthy even though I have something better its still handy to have, i love the audio output on it over my htc desire, but i wouldn't be spending the amount i spent on another repair screen like it did back when it was the best potential phone i could have had at the time.
Hi there,
I broke my touch screen and tried to replace it by myself.
To make a long story short, I failed miserably (I broke the screen under).
However, I learned a few things I didn't met in the forum.
A- Disassembly of the case.
1- The Legend is glued. So, you have first to use hoven to melt the glue before being able to do anything useful.
15min/ 60 degree in the oven. Or use an hair dryer (I used the former).
2- Don't forget to remove ALL the screws (even the one behind the IMEI notice).
3- Don't try to open the camera lid before loosening the glue or you'll damage the aluminium body.
4- You have to unplug all the différent cables, so take notes to remember where all of them goes.
5- You must disassemble all the boards. There are 2 boards. One supporting the sim / SD connector, and one supporting the screen/touchscreen.
6- When disassembling the screen board, remove it by pulling the touchscreen at the bottom, and lift it up. don't pass a tool on the sides to remove it or worse, under the touchscreen, you'r tool will touch the screen under and break it (like I did). The screen is very, very fragile
Now, I'm stuck here because I can't remove the connector of the legent which is passed under the shield on the back of the screen.
I'm not able to remove the screen so I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shiled, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
Maybe, some of you knew the trick to open this phone further.
I'd like to hear about it.
A little up to my post for the ones who did not read it till the end:
I can't remove the connector of the legend which is goind under the shield on the back of the screen.
I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shield, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
mate it sounds like you have trashed your phone.they are built NOT to be taken apart.They require special tools and process to be repaired. The only thing i would suggest is contacting your insurance company and let them know that your phone was crushed under a car or something and then crush it under the car and you can get it replaced. If you dont have insurance, take some out and make a claim in say a month or two.
Its not an honest thing to do but your phone sounds busted and its the cheapest way of replacing that handset.
Post a pic of it if you can
Unfortunately, I have no rights to post a link or some put some pics.
Something about spam and profile that should be reviewed before being able show any pics.
This device is glued. No specialized tools are able to open it without removing it.
That would mean that the phone cannot be repaired, only replaced. My phone's motherboard was replaced, so at the service stations they should have special tools.
Fixed it!
Bottom right hand corner:
Bend the shielding back just enough to allow you to slip the connector in & then use a little glue to stick it back.
Maybe I was lucky, but my phones working as good as new again
I fixed my Legend
Guys, I know it's been a while since you talked but in case someone else is looking for this info, that's what happened to me:
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
I would like to see some photos too But I'm never gonna take my phone apart - can't see the point
Foto's
Nice thread, i myself am wondering, if a better gsm antenna can be fixed inside the phone. and connect them to the 2 connections.
Do you have any pictures of the inside housing etc?
Warning: These MODs will void your warranty. You will have to open the device and leave traces behind by performing them. Only perform these Mods on your own risk, if your tablet turns into a brick after or tries to conquer the world, it is not my fault !
As many people know, the Nexus 7 ( 2013 ) has some serious issues. Some devices might show next to no problems at all while others are barely usable.
The Mods I´ve come up with help to at least make the tablet usable again since the manufacturer saved too much $$$ for these devices.
Improving the Touchscreen performance and fixing the grounding issue:
The Touchscreen controler is way too sensitive and the connector cable leading to the Touchscreen acts like a antenna. In order to suppress interferences, it requires a shielding.
I know that some people try to flash other Firmware in order to improve the response but this is not how you can get rid of the problem permanently. These extra Touchscreen Firmwares might decrease the sensitivity and make the Touchscreen usable, not more or less.
Material needed:
- Some Aluminum Foil
- Some adhesive Tape
- Some thick piece of paper ( optional )
- a multimeter device ( optional )
- conductive pads ( optional )
Basically you need to disconnect the Touchscreen connector, attach some thick piece of paper between the cable and the battery ( only optional since this method only adds some extra insulation and insures a even tighter fit of the cable ), attach some Aluminum Foil ( make sure to fold it many times since you need many layers to make it stable ), wrap it around the cable and fix it with stripes of adhesive tape.
This is how your new cable could look like. The open copper spots on the Touchscreen cable are connected to ground; by attaching the aluminum foil, it will also have a connection to ground and shield the cable against interferences. You can check the proper connection with a multimeter if you´re not sure if you have a tight connection.
I also attached a extra conductive pad on top of the connector to ensure a even tighter electrical connection.
I salvaged these conductive pads from junk devices
After having performed this Mod, I never ever had any trouble with my Touchscreen controler going ape-sh*t after a while or not reacting when the tablet was laying on my table and only being touched with one hand only ( also known to other people as the "grounding issue" where you need to touch your Tablet with both hands ).
Audio buzzing issue:
My device also had another issue where I could hear a buzzing noise while using the headphone jack without playing any sounds at all. I could only fix this ground connection issue by bypassing it with a extra trace of conductive ink.
Material needed:
- conductive silver ink
- conductive pads
- adhesive tape ( optional )
This is what I did:
You will need a multimeter to check if the connections are ok and also attach some extra conducting pads.
Safety first:
If you´re too scared about risking a short circuit, you can attach some adhesive tape :
My device is working without any flaws now and I can finally enjoy it like I wanted it to behave when I bought it in 2013..
Happy Modding,
I also wanted to mention that the grounding error when using the headphone output, without listening to music for a while, seems to have vanished too.
I used to have a buzzing noise when not playing any sounds at all, after a while. Maybe the parallel ground connection prevents some internal interruptions, messed by a faulty PCB design.
edit: removed
Very cool. I'll give this a try over the weekend; I'll have to get that silver pen first. They cost a pretty penny here in Singapore.
edit: removed this one too
Sweet. I'm doing this asap. I absolutely love my Nexus 7 but the touchscreen just drives me crazy. Terraria is my favorite game and controls are just insane. I get multiple inputs often. Character is running all over the place, turned the wrong way. I tried to play a FPS a few days ago and that was a complete joke. I've done the touchscreen firmware flashes and reseating the cable connections and both help alot but still doesn't stop the frequent spaz fits.
So you did both steps; added silver trace to the backplate and wrapped the cable in foil...?
I'm assuming the silver trace didn't work since you continued working on it. Do you recommend doing the silver trace or just the foil wrap?
A video would be interesting to just show what connects to what. Video is also easier to make out what is what.
edit: removed this one too. It seems that there is not any demand for mods like this.
Just wanted to report that I placed a 2×3 strip of twice folded tinfoil underneath the two cables running down the back inside my nexus. I made sure the left and right edges of the foil were touching the metal bracket before I put the back cover back on. My issues with a dead screen have disappeared. It had been happening more and more over the past 2 months, maybe 10-12 times a day. I was close to getting a new device. Glad I didn't!
Gorgtech said:
Edit: removed due to low demand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But why? Should sharing something be in a racing with other threads? Helping even one person should be good enough.
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
I´m glad the shielding did the trick for you
I removed the posts because the Mods require you to not only open the device ( which is easy and can be done without leaving any traces if done the proper way ) but also perform changes which will leave marks behind and void your warranty for sure. If you are a older user who owns the device for 1-2 years ( and doesn´t care about voiding the warranty ), you might want to try them.
But I guess that most people here might be afraid in the end to modify the device like I did. XDA is a platform for software enthusiasts and I´m not sure if hardware-mods really fit here.
But if there really is a demand for fix which require you to do more than just eg. playing with ADB around and flashing other Touchscreen Firmware or simply open the device and pushing a connector ( while wearing gloves so you cannot leave any finger prints on the copper foils ), I can reupload a short description
Gorgtech said:
I´m glad the shielding did the trick for you
I removed the posts because the Mods require you to not only open the device ( which is easy and can be done without leaving any traces if done the proper way ) but also perform changes which will leave marks behind and void your warranty for sure. If you are a older user who owns the device for 1-2 years ( and doesn´t care about voiding the warranty ), you might want to try them.
But I guess that most people here might be afraid in the end to modify the device like I did. XDA is a platform for software enthusiasts and I´m not sure if hardware-mods really fit here.
But if there really is a demand for fix which require you to do more than just eg. playing with ADB around and flashing other Touchscreen Firmware or simply open the device and pushing a connector ( while wearing gloves so you cannot leave any finger prints on the copper foils ), I can reupload a short description
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, a mod is a mod. Does not matter if software or hardware. A simple warning for warranty risks should be enough. It's not any more dangerous than installing Cyanogenmod or achieving S-off on HTC devices or bacing up DRM keys of our Sony, yet their inventors think giving you the warning on the OP is enough.
For the same angle, it's l logical that you advise people to use gloves, etc.. to hide any evidence of interacting with the device's inside so the warranty remains..
Besides, same rule as rooting still applies; if one is afraid or not know what to do clearly, then one should not do it.
People, like me, who lives in countries where the warranty is not honored properly because most of the tech companies has no honor at all, most likely would prefer a self-made solution rather than trusting the warranty companies -which is not the device maker company but a local one- and waiting for weeks.
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
Was gonna about to check this out again and try it, but you removed it already Hope you will post the shorter guide.
Please upload the guide again
Skickat från min HTC One_M8
Why would you delete your posts?
please re upload the fix
I'm very interested in seeing the guide
I just found this today, so I haven't had a chance to see it yet, but the context from the later posts makes it sound very interesting
Gorgtech said:
Edit: removed due to low demand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but why remove it?
where is fix?
Low demand? What kind reason is that?
can you post a picture? thanks.