The various connections under the battery cover - HD2 General

Just wondering what some of these are for, if anything.
Take it as looking at it with the camera on your left, and the microSD slot on the bottom.
So I know the bottom left white spot is a moisture sensor, and the bottom right red is a reset button.
What do the three connections next to the sim card do, or the "void" hole just above it?
Another thing I've noticed, is that there are two (very small) metal connections in line with the edge of battery/sim card. One on either side of the device, which match up with two metal patches on the battery cover.
What is this for? I know on the Nokia N86 there is something very similar which is used for the FM transmitter.

srw985 said:
Just wondering what some of these are for, if anything.
Take it as looking at it with the camera on your left, and the microSD slot on the bottom.
So I know the bottom left white spot is a moisture sensor, and the bottom right red is a reset button.
What do the three connections next to the sim card do, or the "void" hole just above it?
Another thing I've noticed, is that there are two (very small) metal connections in line with the edge of battery/sim card. One on either side of the device, which match up with two metal patches on the battery cover.
What is this for? I know on the Nokia N86 there is something very similar which is used for the FM transmitter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its the power connections etc for when you use the car kit, which requires a replacement back cover.

ardsar said:
Its the power connections etc for when you use the car kit, which requires a replacement back cover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which are?
The ones by the sim card or the two pins connecting to the current battery cover?

srw985 said:
Which are?
The ones by the sim card or the two pins connecting to the current battery cover?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ones by the sim card.

skr_xd said:
The ones by the sim card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah ok.
Anyone know what the other connections are for?

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the two pins for the car kit make it pretty straightforward for someone to release an inductive charger like the Palm-Pre touchstone thing?

"void" hole
Hello!
How about the "void" hole - I assume it's not for soft-reset.
I just pushed with a pen in it - do I have problems with warranty now?
Thanks for your reply!

Funny, I just saw that 'void' hole today myself and was wondering what it was for.
Guess it somehow changes if you pry the phone open yourself? For a second I thought I had voided my warranty somehow when I saw the little button.

void hole = SCREW.
It's there so you don't remove the screw underneath to disassemble the phone (which will VOID the warranty). Once the VOID sticker on the screw is torn, you can pretty much kiss whatever warranty you have good bye. Then again, if you like to tinker and dissect your phone, chances are you dont give a crap about warranty.

"void" hole
hello lude219
Thanks for your reply concerning void hole.
This I asked at another thread:
> In an act of desperation I've put with a pen into the 'void' hole at the back - > nothing changed - thought it would be the soft reset button. Did I break
> warranty now?
reply from TML1504
>> ...and, sorry, it was not very smart to damage the "void" seal.
>> it's there to indicate if the device has been in contact with water!
>> eventually your warranty is lost, but no one except htc can tell
>> you that...
Hmm, I didn't remove the whole void thing, I just picked with a pen in it. (no screw came out, I even couldn't see one using a microscope)
I'd contact HTC asap to better check on this issue. They could have avoided this matter if they would produce a better manual describing where you can find the reset button & where you souldn't touch!!

hari.st said:
I'd contact HTC asap to better check on this issue. They could have avoided this matter if they would produce a better manual describing where you can find the reset button & where you souldn't touch!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The manual does tell you where the reset button is located, plus it wouldn't say 'void' on it.

hari.st said:
hello lude219
Thanks for your reply concerning void hole.
This I asked at another thread:
> In an act of desperation I've put with a pen into the 'void' hole at the back - > nothing changed - thought it would be the soft reset button. Did I break
> warranty now?
reply from TML1504
>> ...and, sorry, it was not very smart to damage the "void" seal.
>> it's there to indicate if the device has been in contact with water!
>> eventually your warranty is lost, but no one except htc can tell
>> you that...
Hmm, I didn't remove the whole void thing, I just picked with a pen in it. (no screw came out, I even couldn't see one using a microscope)
I'd contact HTC asap to better check on this issue. They could have avoided this matter if they would produce a better manual describing where you can find the reset button & where you shouldn't touch!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL dont stress out, man. If you didn't puncture the sticker in any shape or form, it should be fine. Just know that there's a screw underneath that VOID sticker.

Related

Camera: macro function working?

Hello, does the macro function (the switch near the lens) really work? I tried several pictures and can't see any difference between normal and macro.
I notice that I can't put the switch fully to the top (to normal mode) but easily full to the bottom (to macro). Maybe it's dispositioned and therefor it doesn't reach the macro function internally?
Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V
vijay555 said:
Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)
Camera Macro
pietrucci said:
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike
mikechannon said:
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).
Easy Repair
pietrucci said:
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Pietrucci
Congratulations
pietrucci said:
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Piettrucci
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knew you could do it, congratulations. The back is fiddly, it helps if you have the tool that looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a slightly bend tip - meant for providing a little leverage to pull the case out enough to release the click in clips. A blunt knife could also be used if you want to go down market. Steer clear of a sledgehammer though!
Mike

Keyboard is getting too loose!

Hi,
just another question by a lam3 user
After some day using my tytn, i noticed that the keyboard is very loose, just after locking it under the lcd.
to explain better: video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj56htWOHEk
as you see, the keyboard is very loose just after locking it.
My device id is 640, so it is affected by some keyboard sliding problems(is a v1605)...but my question is: There is something i can do to fix this?
i tried to tighten the screws i signed here
but without significative improvement.
this is a minor issue,i think, but if i can fix it my tytn will go better in my huge hands
however, no problem if the fixing procedure involves to remove the warranty sticker up the screw, the tytn is on italy and i do not think that vodafone uk will change it
many many thanks
gtazok
The screws you've tightened are just for the housing. To make the keyboard tighter, you need to take the device apart
These 2 links explain everything you need:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live....BlogPart&_c02_owner=1&partqs=cat=Hermes+Fixes
http://www.howardforums.com/showpost.php?p=9119842&postcount=1
Good luck!
underneath your main board is 4 screws tighten those and you should be set. If not you may need to by a new housing. I hope the tighten helps though.
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
I couldn't really tell from your video if it is the standard loose keyboard problem you've got, but my keyboard was loose in the way that when closed it could 'fall' open pretty easily.
I used the guides above, and while it does invalidate your warranty (unless you're able to remove the warranty sticker without breaking it), it is very easy to do and put back together.
my problem is, as shown on video:
when i try to press the power button, i apply some force to my forefinger to tighten the grabbing around the phone.
when i apply this force, the upper part of the phone(the part where is the buttons of mail and iexplore) slide off the housing, and go for about 2 mm (as shown in the video).
i will like to tightnen this, to do that the phone will never slide the keyb without apply *Decent* pressure.
the keyboard,however, stay solid when fully opened, and *decent* pressure is needed to restore it from the full opening to housing closed.
was i *almost* clear? i'm very sorry but i understand that my english is a mess and really confusing, but if someone could guide me, i can do photo, pictures and so on.
thanks
gtazok
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
StarMonkee said:
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great, that was exactly was i searched so!
but..a couple of taps...i have noticed that the indents are "stamped", there is the possibility i will break it with too much force?
and, for opening the tytn, where i can find all the needed in one pack? i live in italy, but i have no idea of what screwdriver and things must(and where)buy.
maybe there is some omnicomprensive pack that could be shipped to italy without problem.
many thanks, i appreciate much
Gtazok
The metal is quite soft in the sliders so it is possible to hit it too hard, but I don't think you're likely to do that if you start softly and keep testing the slider tightness until it's right.
The only 'special' screws are the ones holding the case in, but they can be opened pretty easily with a small flat screwdriver. From what I can remember, the screws inside the phone are just small normal screws.
gtazok said:
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay If you do tighten those screws it will help that. I've seen them to be soo bad that if you tilt the device it slides open. Soo basically if you still under warranty send it to your provider other wise follow this guide.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Uploads/Hermes/Hermes_Manual_Hyins/Hermes_Service_Manual.pdf
This will guide you through the entire process of taking apart your Hermes. Good luck if you have any questions.
[email protected]
HI!!
just managed to re-close my hermes (first time i closed it without inserting the last cable LOL...i forgot it, but before powering off he comed to my mind..omg what i have risked not plugging last cable before closing??)
however, i did manage do disassembly only with a standard little screwdriver, not without problems
i just arrived to disassemble the keyb, and get rid on the rails.
I must admit that i NEVER have seen so much dust in a phone(i think mine was re-assembled from another).
i have extracted the rails, the 2, and tried to gentle tapping the indents.No way to go, i tapped *gently*(sometimes a little hard) but i really noticed no improvement
so,i thinked:
"if i change the rails, i will have a perfectly mirrored situation, with the keyboard closed it will be ok, with keyb opened it will be a little loose"
(remember, the keyb was loose when try to open it, not when to close)
So i changed the rails, switching them...
and now it's really better, the phone rarely go off his housing, closed, and go down a little more easily(but is acceptable, because i never do any "forcing" when it's open..)
maybe, with time, the opening will become a problem, with the keyb sliding to close when it's open.
However, maybe this not occour.So for now i'm happy
last thing. I noticed that on the page where the man tried to adjust the rails, he suggested
1)to tap the indents( tried, work very very little)
2)to insert pieces of ribbon
i not tried the second suggestion, because i have not understand WHERE to insert those pieces.Maybe he was suggesting to insert them at the end of the rails? where the carts block? if it is, why? i tried to pull up the small piece of "sheet"(i don't know if it's the correct term, sorry for my bad english ) on the border of the cart where it don't block, but whitout results..so inserting ribbon what improvement would have done?
thanks for the patience to read all my messed up english and many thanks
gtaz
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
anyone know?
ok no way?
gtazok said:
anyone know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
galaxys said:
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
gtazok said:
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you just need to increase those indents a bit more than you did. It is more successful to tap the indents using a small flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer. (Go easy of course and keep testing as you tap. You want a very firm click into place. You should hear the click and it should be really quite hard to move the slider over the indents using your finger tips)
The tapping technique is probably better than just pressing a screwdriver blade onto the indent. Pressing rather than tapping is likely to simply bend the entire metal strip and curve it slightly. This might improve the grip for a while but as the curve gradually straightens out again the slider will just become loose again. Using the tapping method I did mine well over a year ago and I have never had to redo it and it takes a very firm push an audibl clicks to open the device.
(Buying new sliders will not solve your problem. The vast majority, it seems to me were made withy too shallow indents. It may be worth buying new ones if the micro welds have sprung apart however)
Mike
hi
i dismantled my hermes one more time. This time i put out an hammer(a big hammer,indeed)so i "gently" hammered with a flat screwdriver the indents.
result? the keyb is now "really locked" when i open it..but the opening problem remain.
when i try to open it when it is closed, with my finger, i notice that the slipping of the upper left part(seeing the phone from the front) is EVER too loose, i reopened 2 times and tapped "not so gently" the incriminated indent, but i noticed no result. i also tried to exchange the sliders (the lower with the higher) but no improvement was done.
i think that is a defective implementation, because the "centre of pressure" is located in the upper part of the phone, so the phone is like to open more easily when it is closed. Did anyone noticed that?
however, the overall is increased, i think, about 30-40% more tighten as before, and that is no bad.
shame it has no solved my problem, but life it so bad that i can will be live happy with a little loose tytn
thanks
Gtazok
I agree that my the upper left keyboard slider has always been looser than the bottom...
good, that confirm my idea.
let us know if any other noticed the same thing.
thanks
gtazok

Front keyboard no work

I have problems,my front keyboard no work,only work one moment.
sorry for my english.
thanks
Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.
WillySonicteam said:
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isdifficult if you are not used to technical stuff. Also, you have to remember that there is NO guarantee that the things suggested in the thread I gave a link for will work. Padding the chip on the d/pad works for some but not everybody. If your problems are bad though, it MAY be worth dismantling - it's your decision.
Mike
My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks
WillySonicteam said:
My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what service costs are where you are, but service at a repair shop would be expensive because they would like replace the the D/pad board (assuming that they can get a new board)
Providing you do not break anything when you dismantle, then if you get stuck you could always take it to a repair shop to re-assemble it. (Don't lose those tiny screws and note where each one goes) Give yourself plenty time and be gentle with the ribbon cable with the sticky tape on it (you'll see it in the manual).
Remember to line up the camera's macro lever with the back casing when you replace the back cover.
To be honest the most fiddly part for me is just getting the casing off it's lttle plastic clips after you take the four screws out. Taking the internal parts apart is delicate, but not difficult.
Mike
Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.
WillySonicteam said:
Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some problem,the **** connector.

How to disassemble the HTC HD2?

I need a guide how to take off the screen from the backcover. There are 4 screws, but when you remove them, the screen doesn't move, also when using a vacuum pump.
Is there a special trick to get the display removed?
I know, a guy @ www.xda-china.com has managed to disassemble the HD2, but as i don't understand chinese i can't register there and ask him.
Benz-Driver said:
I know, a guy @ www.xda-china.com has managed to disassemble the HD2, but as i don't understand chinese i can't register there and ask him.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea about your question, but did you ever try the google translation tools on this web site? It should be possible to translate it to English at least. Mabye that brings you forward ...
Request!
When taking your HD2 apart, could you PLEASE do the following:
Take high resolution pictures of the chips inside (pref. ALL chips)
A lot of us here really want to know what the memory chips say and what the broadcom chip says!
This would help a lot in the possible (if possible) development of a FM transmitter driver/app for the HD2 and it would once and for all answer the question if we have 448MB or 576MB of RAM and 512MB or 1GB of ROM.
Thanks a lot!
AGREE!
Yeah, i totally agree with ralphfx.
In this thread, i also requested some high quality pictures of the chips located inside the HD2 - the Boradcom chip especially.
This would be highly appreciated.
yeah,we are all interested about ram rom and comm chipset....we really appreciate if you take photos about this argument....
1. have a nice insurance
2. use excessive force
3. take pictures
4. call the insurance company, tell them someone bumped in to you on the bus and the phone fell and people walked on it
5. Win Win situation, we get pics, you get new phone
may I ask why you want to open it?
br3nt said:
may I ask why you want to open it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
because the right upper corner of the display is lower than the other three corners and i would like to fix this. But i won't do that unless i have a really good guide, in order not to destroy the HD2.
i can recognize the same thing on my phone (at least it seems to be so). but:
(1) it is maybe 0.1mm difference at the top right corner _at most_ (just feelable when you move your fingers over the corners slightly and compare)
(2) there is no difference in the other corners, especially not in the lower left one. which makes me assume that it is not the screen that is tilt, but the frame that is bend. (did you check that with a master tool? maybe difficult due to the keys at the bottom...)
anyway, the difference is (at least over here) so small i didnt even realize it until i read your thread and took a _very_ close look at mine. of course, how bad it really is is highly subjective and as we all want pictures from the chips inside as well: plz go ahead! (and someone give him that howto finally!)
I had to remove the camera from my HD and here is how I have done it:
(This information is provided as is without warranty to accuracy. I take no responsibility for your action. Removing the back cover will void the warranty!)
Image 1:
Remove the 4 Screws. As you see on the Image, two of the screws have a stickers on them. I tried but I couldn't remove them in one piece. From this point on, you no longer have warranty on your phone!)
Image 2:
To remove the back, you need a plastic tool like the one on the Image.
Do not use metal or other hard tools. (They will damage the very soft and fragile frame and your phone will look ugly.)
Image 3 - Top:
These are the hooks that keep the top in place. You have to insert the plastic tool between the display and the frame and very carefully disengage the hooks on both sides.
Image 3 - Bottom:
The bottom side of the cover. On this side there are no hooks only a long retaining edge. At the reassembly this edge clips in first and then the top hooks snap in.
That's all. I haven't disassembled the phone any further as I only needed to get to the camera.
For all of you, who are not allowed to carry a phone with camera at work: this is your device! As there is no second forward facing camera, only the main camera must be removed. It is held by a cage (see last image). This can be carefully pried up and turned to the side. Then the camera can be removed and the cage closed again. Be very careful! The release for the cage is above some capacitors and you have not much space to work. Use a sharp and tiny screwdriver.
The camera driver is intelligent enough not to cause any side effects. When the camera software is started, nothing happens. No error message, no freezing, nothing.
I closed the camera hole with a piece of black plastic (from the back of a CD cover) and so it still looks fine.
The HD2 is the best business phone and it is a real joy to use in a daily basis...
Cheers,
Thinman
you've solved your problem?
Thinman24, please repeat procedure and open up on top right corner so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function. See here for more info :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=622377&page=26
Great job!
where is the external speaker?
thinman24 said:
For all of you, who are not allowed to carry a phone with camera at work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Spike15 said:
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Security...
Thinman24, please repeat procedure and open up on top right corner so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function. See here for more info :
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry, I can't do that. I took the images in December right after my phone arrived and as you know: never change a runnig system...
The Frame around the Display is VERY soft and disassembling the phone repeatedly will certainly introduce some dents and bumps.
I had two minor ones (due to the fact, that there were no guides and I was looking for the hooks on the side) but I could smooth them out, so hey are barely visible.
I will check my images at home in the evening. Maybe I have one where the chip is visible but don't hold your breath as it wasn't my main concern back then.
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm working in a Design Center of a car company... camera == loss of job, immediately. They take this very seriously here.
where is the external speaker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's to the right of the Camera Opening on Image 3. It's attached to the back cover and is connected by springloaded contacts (can be seen on the last image).
There are no wires between the back cover and the Display/MainModule. Everything is connected by touch contacts. Makes the removal very simple.
Cheers,
Thinman
...so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked my photos, but the chips are covered so the images are not much use...
Cheers,
Thinman
It's alright - thanks for your time though ^^
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=624331 <--- internal pictures of the HD2
thinman24 said:
I'm working in a Design Center of a car company... camera == loss of job, immediately. They take this very seriously here.
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Are you not allowed to bring your eyes to work either?
Lol...
Spike15 said:
Are you not allowed to bring your eyes to work either?
Lol...
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Click to collapse
actually you made me lol
pretty common sense/logic that he is not allowed to use the camera inside the building in his line of work
another example is when I went to the VW/Audi factory in germany with my class a couple of years ago we had to turn in our phones at the entrance due to security reasons... also in places where there's government secrets/building - if you get caught in action you can get jail (something like that, was a while ago....)
Really extensive disassemble photo-guide in russian.
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/

[Q] Epic Disassembly - How can I open it up?

I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
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Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
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Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
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lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
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Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
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Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
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Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
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Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''

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