Front keyboard no work - 8525, TyTN, MDA Vario II, JasJam General

I have problems,my front keyboard no work,only work one moment.
sorry for my english.
thanks

Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.

WillySonicteam said:
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isdifficult if you are not used to technical stuff. Also, you have to remember that there is NO guarantee that the things suggested in the thread I gave a link for will work. Padding the chip on the d/pad works for some but not everybody. If your problems are bad though, it MAY be worth dismantling - it's your decision.
Mike

My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks

WillySonicteam said:
My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what service costs are where you are, but service at a repair shop would be expensive because they would like replace the the D/pad board (assuming that they can get a new board)
Providing you do not break anything when you dismantle, then if you get stuck you could always take it to a repair shop to re-assemble it. (Don't lose those tiny screws and note where each one goes) Give yourself plenty time and be gentle with the ribbon cable with the sticky tape on it (you'll see it in the manual).
Remember to line up the camera's macro lever with the back casing when you replace the back cover.
To be honest the most fiddly part for me is just getting the casing off it's lttle plastic clips after you take the four screws out. Taking the internal parts apart is delicate, but not difficult.
Mike

Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.

WillySonicteam said:
Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some problem,the **** connector.

Related

Camera: macro function working?

Hello, does the macro function (the switch near the lens) really work? I tried several pictures and can't see any difference between normal and macro.
I notice that I can't put the switch fully to the top (to normal mode) but easily full to the bottom (to macro). Maybe it's dispositioned and therefor it doesn't reach the macro function internally?
Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V
vijay555 said:
Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)
Camera Macro
pietrucci said:
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike
mikechannon said:
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).
Easy Repair
pietrucci said:
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Pietrucci
Congratulations
pietrucci said:
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Piettrucci
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knew you could do it, congratulations. The back is fiddly, it helps if you have the tool that looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a slightly bend tip - meant for providing a little leverage to pull the case out enough to release the click in clips. A blunt knife could also be used if you want to go down market. Steer clear of a sledgehammer though!
Mike

BIG PROBLEM White screen

My screen has gone completely white.... I bought the phone online from an "authorized dealer" who won't reply to me now. I live in the US and O2 does not appear to have any US contact info... Am i screwed on this expensive phone i bought 6 months ago?
Anyone had experience with this?
S
stuart.myers said:
My screen has gone completely white.... I bought the phone online from an "authorized dealer" who won't reply to me now. I live in the US and O2 does not appear to have any US contact info... Am i screwed on this expensive phone i bought 6 months ago?
Anyone had experience with this?
S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess you already tried hard reset?.
Can you get to bootloader mode?.
Tried hard resets, and getting to bootloader mode, i think this is a malfunction with the actual device, I just need to find out how to get in touch with o2 support internationally, i was wondering if someone on here may have had this problem too.
Thanks.
white screen - connector loose?
I too have this problem - but if I twist the screen away from the keyboard I get the display back. I suspect there's a connector loose inside but haven't looked inside.
Anyone on the forum any experience of getting inside and reseating connectors?
xda operation
tophamn said:
I too have this problem - but if I twist the screen away from the keyboard I get the display back. I suspect there's a connector loose inside but haven't looked inside.
Anyone on the forum any experience of getting inside and reseating connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello there,
I had to get inside my xda to replace the screen that one of my dear rug rats broke. it is quite easy to do, and you only need to get into the screen side of it to get at the conectors. spin the screen half way round and look at the bottom and you will see 6 small screws. take out the two furthest out and two in the middle nearest the screen side. if you take them all out the whole thing becomes hard to handle. the front cover should GENTLY leaver off, and the cables to it exposed. even if they look in place lift the catch holding them in place and take them out and wipe the contacts with a cloth. just be very carefull with the cable strips as they tear very easy. . any problems then PM me
TTFN
Jay
White Screen
Try www.gpsmidlands.co.uk they replaced my ribbon assembly the same day.
Xda Lcd Repair
Try http://www.pda-repairs.co.uk
Brilliant
thanks for this posting - worked perfectly once i had worked out that atually you need to remove the screws further away from the screen in the middle. but otherwise I have successfully resurected a brick into a working universal! thanks!
Sark

Um, what is this part?

Hi! So my Wizard (well, the T-Mobile MDA) had an issue where its USB port became completely detached, so I found the service manual and opened it up to fix it. When I got the back housing off to expose the relevant circuit board, a small metal part flew out, and I can't for the life of me figure out where it belongs. The pictures in the manual aren't high enough resolution for me to be able to tell where this tiny sliver of metal fits in. I've since done the soldering I needed to do and fixed the USB jack, and the phone seems to work fine... I've attached two pictures of the part in question, with the phone for scale on the first one.
Any ideas? If I'm not noticing any functional differences, is it reasonable to just not worry about it? Thanks!
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Fantastic. Thanks!
Thanks a million from me too....had the exact same problem yesterday!
Stylist retaining spring
Thanks for the info - I too found this after disassembling my to check and clean the buttons. Although, now it isn't working - rats! I had hoped that finding where this belonged would solve that.
rmcknight said:
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are in wrong, that part, it is beer bottle opener

Help with Wizard repair diagnostic

My wizard was slammed with a trunk lid. The clear screen is fine, no cracks, the housing has a scratch where it hit the lid. The lcd screen is half ok. Now I said all that to say: I bought a screen, here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&salenotsupported
Now that I have this, it doesn't look like this is what I need.
Here is a pic of the phone turned on.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/CuteePatootee/IMG_2624.jpg
I can use it with what I can see. So it works fine, its the window that I can't see that is the problem.
Can someone look at this pic and tell me what I should have gotten?
Thanks
Cutee
hy
take a look at this ,maybe it'll help you...=>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7409Gq51RFE
Thanks, I couldn't get any audio so it was hard to follow. Did you get audio? Is there anywhere else I can look?
CuteePatootee said:
My wizard was slammed with a trunk lid. The clear screen is fine, no cracks, the housing has a scratch where it hit the lid. The lcd screen is half ok. Now I said all that to say: I bought a screen, here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&salenotsupported
Now that I have this, it doesn't look like this is what I need.
Here is a pic of the phone turned on.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/CuteePatootee/IMG_2624.jpg
I can use it with what I can see. So it works fine, its the window that I can't see that is the problem.
Can someone look at this pic and tell me what I should have gotten?
Thanks
Cutee
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding is, You got a wrong part. What you got is a digitizer, it is the one used for touch only and will not be suitable for the type of repair you need. What you need is LCD. The screen on most resistive screen devices consists of 2 parts - 1 LCD and 1 Digitizer attached to LCD by a layer of fine gel and connected by a flex cable, then the whole assembly is connected by a flex to the mainboard.
My recommendation would be to purchase the entire assembly, get a service manual and replace, however, if you had problems deciding what part you need to repair your Wizard, I say take it to the professional.
nesincodrut said:
take a look at this ,maybe it'll help you...=>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7409Gq51RFE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way someone is opening and attempting to repair their Wizard on that video is what keeps me employed. Watching someone open their device with screwdrivers and then attempting to re-connect the flex and forgetting half of the screws gives me the creeps, not even sure whether to laugh or cry. Would love to see the repair actually working, rather than someone claiming they found the way to do something without demonstrating any result.

[Q] Epic Disassembly - How can I open it up?

I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''

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