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Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
the problem:
phone sporadically powers off,
sporadically reboots when connected via usb to computer
bad battery data is show in notification bar.
usb port works for charging but does not recognize computer when connected.
additional evidence:
water damage
using custom rom (signature).
the story:
the phone has sustained water damage.
it did not go swimming, but water that was slowly spilling from a cup leaked near the area of the phone and the bottom lid did get wet.
being the idiot that i am i just wiped the bottom and continued using the phone.
it would no longer charge the battery, so i assumed the battery was dead, replaced it with the one from my signature and continued using the phone.
after a few days the usb port started exibiting the above behaviour,
and a month later (2 weeks ago) the current problem started.
long story short:
I don't mind buying a new battery, but since my phone is not common where i live, i would have to pay extra for shipping etc
I need to be sure this is the battery (or batteries, both work but are problematic) or be sure this is something else in which case i buy a new phone or get the current one repaired.
ideas ?
At risk of double posting, just wanted to let you know I'm having very similar problems, but with no known hardware damage.
Mimicry 1.4.0. See your original posting for more specifics.
I would suggest doing a couple of things. First, I would clean the contacts to your battery. I actually used metal polish to fix a problem with the G2 when I closed the qwerty keyboard it would shutoff. Lots of oxidation was on the battery contacts, and I cleaned the metal connectors to the battery on the phone itself as well. Sure enough the problem doesn't occur anymore.
As for the USB port, could be the same issue. Corroded or oxidized contacts, probably from a drink you spilled. Damn near impossible to clean that connector, I would suggest getting yourself contact cleaner/lubricant. They sell it at RadioShack, and it works miracles. I use it on damn near any electrical connector. If you really want to go the extra mile, put some dielectric grease in there as well. Will help to keep the connector from corroding in the future.
I had this issue when I dropped phone in a toilet (ewww) . Anyways I opened the phone and cleaned the mobo with 99% alcohol. I used a toothbrush to do this. Phone stopped rebooting and powering off. The reason to use alcohol is because it evaporates quickly and nonconsuctive.make sure is 99 percent tho because of less water content.
Sent from my Xoom using xda app-developers app
I've the same problem (no water accident)... sometimes my desire z turn off... it happen with mimicry 1.4.0 (and prec version) and now sometimes with Ice Cream Sensewich 1.0
I'm having the same problems, Mimicry 1.40, with no water damage(that I know of). They've been getting worse the past few days. I'm not sure how to read the logfiles that might help diagnose the problem... any ideas?
Water damage isn't the only way to oxidize a connector. Dirt will do it just fine. I'm using Mimicry and haven't had this issue.
Hi everyone,
First of all, I apologize in advance,
1. Because I know this isn't a tech support forum.
2. Because I don't contribute and help out as much as I should.
Coming here was a last resort, I don't consider myself a noob, but I'm really stuck here.
Please note that I appreciate every single response, and I will donate if anyone can give me a fix.
With that aside, let me get started
__________________________________
Okay so about a week ago, I accidentally bent my charger when it was charging my note.
It didn't charge at all that night
That morning, I blew into the charge port on my note, suspecting that dust may have been the cause.
Somehow, that helped, as my note charged fully that day, in about 2-3 hours
Then I tried charging it the next night.
It charged incredibly slowly, reaching about 70% after 10 hours charge
The next few nights were similar, but reaching no more than 40% charge after 10 hours.
It got progressively worse, it would only charge if I applied pressure to the mini-usb,
I looked around this morning, and stumbled across another guy with the same problem
(see here http://www.galaxynoteforum.net/galaxy-note-help/charging-port-issue/ )
He advised,
"Well I have figured out the issue. If you look into the charging port slot on the phone you will notice a small thin flat piece of metal which inserts into the charger. That was slanted and angled downward which would not let "ANY" charger or docking station charge correctly also causing it to drain the battery. Contacts on this piece and the phone were to close causing a minor contact draining power. I used a precision flathead screw driver and lifted the piece slightly and now works fine"
So I tried that, and it seemed to help, as the note began charging, (extremely slowly, reaching about 30%)
Then I tried pushing that "thin flat piece of metal up even further"
However, I went too far, and I couldn't fit the charger into the charge port.
So I tried pushing it back into the centre but I may have damaged one of the pins in the charge port (inside the phone)
I seen a little spark, and the note turned off.
I tried switching it on, and managed to boot to safe mode (no idea how)
So then I tried charging it, I applied pressure and managed to get it to start charging. (thank god)
This was about 30 mins ago, it looks to be holding the charge at about 20%, but it's not increasing
-----------------------------------------------------
I suspect one of the pins in the note charge port was snapped off.. although I'm not sure.. (it appears to be the one on the right)
1.Does anyone know how many pins there are on the charge port inside the note? (is it 4 or 5?)
2.What should I do?
If I broke a pin, it should not charge at all, right? (but it seems to be charging)
3. Do I need to replace the charge port, if so, how much would it cost?
4. Would I be better off getting a charging station, and charging the battery using that
5. Should I try moving the metal strip again? (inside the charge port of the note)
oops forgot to mention, when the problem started, and the note was slow-charging, an audible buzzing/humming could be heard in the wall outlet
also, I'm using my original samsung usb charger, not a generic one, and I'm charging directly into a wall outlet.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you for taking the time to read this, I really appreciate it, and any advise that you do offer.
Cyber735
Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS
there are 5 pins on the charger slot, 4 I believe are for data transfer and the 5th being the one that draws power (charges the phone)
Have you tried transferring data from PC to Phone and see how that pans out ?
Its possible to replace the USB port, Ive seen a few threads about this on XDA, A quick search should chuck out some results.
But as mentioned above, Try to claim under warranty first, if you have it, or pay the Service centre to do it if you dont feel confident enough to do it yourself.
I think I recall someone with a similar issue and it cost him / her $60 for USB replacement (convert that in to your currency)
If you have a friend with a Note or a phone that fits the Note's battery you could always charge your battery in that phone and place it into yours until you get it fixed.
IF YOU MUST charge your Note ( you could if you intend to get a new USB slot) I would suggest to charge only via USB - as in charging from your PC / Laptop / TV / PS3 etc. As this will not draw as much current as it would coming directly from the mains supply!
Good luck on getting it fixed, And please keep us posted with the results !
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
check this out. It gives the pin configuration. I am no expert but hope it helps!
altae said:
Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
r
Thanks for the quick reply!
First of all, I can confirm that no pins are broken or bent, everything looks normal, it also seems to be charging better, as I centred the metal strip in the charge port.
As for warranty, well I didn't purchase any extended warranty or insurance, however, the standard warranty lasts 2 years.
Unfortunately
The Repair Warranty Exclusions are as follows: (i) Subject to the inclusions of the applicable manufacturer's warranty, a mobile that has broken down or is damaged as a result of: (a) abuse or tampering, (b) electrical damage, moisture, dampness, oxidation, corrosion or food, dirt or liquid ingress (c) accident, neglect, impact, actual or attempted theft, fire, power outages or surges, or incorrect voltage, (d) transportation or packaging (e) removable batteries or damage caused by battery leakage
Basically, the only thing that I'm covered for is "handset breakdown"
My phone is in perfect condition, and no pins are broken or bent (as discovered on closer inspection)
So do you class charging issues as "handset breakdown" or not?
I may purchase a new charger, just in case the issue is with the charger, and not the phone,
What d'ya think?
Thanks again for the quick replies azzledazzle & nipuna, I didn't notice them until now,
Yeah I'm 90% there's no damage to the pins on the charge port, and it seems to be charging now, slowly at least,
I've centered the metal strip as best as I can, (inside the charge port)
I'll leave it to charge now for a while, as I'm not sure if it's fixed or not
Then I'll try another charger if it doesn't work
If all else fails, I'll try getting it repaired under warranty
(although that's more of a last resort, as it will take a few weeks to get my phone back)
does anyone know if the standard galaxy s2 charger will work on the note?
I don't have it on me now, although I could borrow it from a friend
I know its an official samsung charger, although not sure if it's the usb or the other kind.
I'll let it charge for a while, then I'll try transferring data from the laptop, to make sure the pins are fine,
thanks for all your help everyone,
1st of all: if you go poking around in the usb port with a metal screwdriver, take out the battery first. Not only will it avoid shortcutting and maybe blow a fuse inside the phone, but it will also protect you from an exploding battery when shortcutted !
S2 charger will work
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium
Bad week this is. First my old Galaxy S3's USB port fails when I give it to my dad (no data, otherwise charges), now my brother's 2 year old Nexus 4 dies.
I did all the troubleshooting and found the fixes involving the battery contacts and removal, the emergency reset procedures using the hardware keys, and the battery itself. No fix.
Battery is good, tests 3.75V, and won't charge anymore after leaving on different chargers. Disassembled whole phone and cleaned and checked all parts
Phone has been overheating for a while now as I was told, my brother is very lazy and never did anything about it, he told me his back screen even cracked from intense heat(Hard to Believe)
Now that it's dead, I noticed that the battery was cold, but the phone was well hot when on charger. After testing I found the Power Management chip to be heating up way to much and only 1.8V
going to battery at charge pins. Part is by Qualcomm, PM8921 and is used on other phones like my Galaxy S3. Seems this is the defective component causing all this. Look at left chip in picture.
Problem is desoldering and soldering is a job Santa's little helpers or a bot. This is damn near impossible to do by a human, especially by me. Found chips on ebay and alibaba which range from
$2 ea. bulk to about $8 individually. Wonder what now... anyone else think it may be something else? Throw away? Find professional to solder in?
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
mikkowus said:
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Planterz said:
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
mikkowus said:
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Planterz said:
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I did end up ordering a new battery because of just that thought. It will be coming Friday though so I might not want to wait. I'll probably end up opening it up twice.. I also happened to open the phone about a 3 weeks after I bought it as somehow the screen cracked. I also have a heatgun. The phone is pretty old. I got it on release.