Hello! could people please share tips and things to remember when buying a used universal? I mean what are the things that you should do to check or find tell tale signs of defect, hardware, the firmware the os, I have already done a search in the forums and already know some, but there might be things that I have missed, so help would be very nice, I will be meeting the seller so I get to inspect the device up close so it would be nice to armed with the info how to inspect the device from how to check the bootload etc.
Thanks for the help and I hope that this helps others too
The Universal can be bought cheap at german eBay. Look for MDA PRO. You should be able to purchase one for around or less than 100 Euro.
Preferably look for the following signs:
1) Unmodded. Many users got the Universal within a contract from the operator, but did not use it much, because it is too big for them. Such Universals are normally in good condition. When advertised that it ships with an OS different than WM5, you know that the owner has been flashing it. I personally don't like that, because that means it belonged to a power user and must be more worn out.
2) Warranty stickers. Make sure the hinges have the warranty stickers inside. If they are missing, the device has been opened. You don't want to purchase one that has been opened.
3) Screen. Screen should be without scratches and should have had always a screen protector.
4) Speaker. The external speaker which is used for calls can break, as it is fitted with some kind of pogo pins. Make sure it is working.
If you get to test the device first, do as this:
- do a call (bring your SIM card)
- check WLAN and Bluetooth (bring a headphone and try it somewhere with WLAN activity)
- bring a SD card and see if it is read
- check for bad pixels
- play a song
- take a picture
- try the keyboard and touch screen
- try all the buttons
If everything works, that is the best you can check it for.
Of course it could break the next day, but it shouldn't.
Cheers,
vma
Great guide vma!
I´ll just add:
Take special care on the swivel piece (The one that gives Uni it´s great and unbeatable form factor: PDA - Micro Lap top)
take care of another thing when i bouted my universal after i used it for about 1 week the phone was hangs soo much the reason was in the memory crd .....so you must try a memory crd and play a small video on it about 10 minutes
The most important thing everyone forgot to mention is USB port. When looking for a device, see if the port moves in any way or wiggles in its opening. See if the device synchronises with AS, charges etc.
The fact the device had been flashed or opened wouldn't play a huge part for me if everything else works well and the body is in sound condition, e.g. the hinge is not loose, the screen rotates and closes properly, all keys are present and work, keyboard backlight works with and without sensor etc.
Speakers don't just break, as post No2 claims (POGO PINS??), but it is good to check that phone is capable of making/receiving calls, you can hear the other party and the other party can hear you, can play music and earphone plug is in working condition/attached properly
Not reading SD or SIM card is a biggie, dim screen, lost touch sensitivity, scratched or damaged digitizer, worn out buttons - all obvious signs. You can open the back, remove the battery and SIM card and check for a small white blotting paper sticker covering the small mainboard pins under the SIM card, any change in color towards pink - do not buy.
@enigma1nz:
Shame on me, I did indeed forget the USB port!!! You should of course check both: charging and Active Sync connection. A broken USB connector is a mayor issue and hard to solder without proper equipment.
Regarding the speaker: I am speaking out of experience, as one faild on me. The speaker is like a small button and it has two contact plates. They are not pogo pins, but act like them. The speaker will be pressed by the case against two contact points on the PCB. What happens is that apparently some car-holders do too much pressure on the sides of the Universal casing, causing the speaker contacts to bend back and forth everytime the phone is placed or removed from the holder. After a few months the contact gets worse and worse until one of both plates brake off. Because they are so tiny, it is impossible to repair the speaker - believe me, I have tried. I ended up buying a new speaker cell at eBay.
Cheers,
vma
vma said:
@enigma1nz:
Shame on me, I did indeed forget the USB port!!! You should of course check both: charging and Active Sync connection. A broken USB connector is a mayor issue and hard to solder without proper equipment.
Regarding the speaker: I am speaking out of experience, as one faild on me. The speaker is like a small button and it has two contact plates. They are not pogo pins, but act like them. The speaker will be pressed by the case against two contact points on the PCB. What happens is that apparently some car-holders do too much pressure on the sides of the Universal casing, causing the speaker contacts to bend back and forth everytime the phone is placed or removed from the holder. After a few months the contact gets worse and worse until one of both plates brake off. Because they are so tiny, it is impossible to repair the speaker - believe me, I have tried. I ended up buying a new speaker cell at eBay.
Cheers,
vma
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And believe me, I repair devices for a living. Thanks for the run-through, although I could give you the same. It happened to you, doesn't mean it happens often or it is a fault in design. I could give you a list of design faults in quite a few models of expensive cellphones on the market today, the mentioned speakers are not one of them.
I appreciate, the help people! any more inputs? I am happy that all the previous posts were, about how to inspect the device upfront and some other useful tips what to check other inputs will be highly appreciated
Battery can be also considered. Some are sold with good batery some with dead battery. It is not so expensive, but costs something. In general if battery shows less than 50% and devidce still works (even under load) that is a good sign.
Also as for the touch screen - the best test is to open note taker and try to paint something. The painted line must exactly follow the stylus movement if it jumps somewhere, then the touch sensitive layer is bad. I bouht such UNI on eBay (was described as perfect working order), had to replace the digitizer myself.
I do prefer buying not working UNI's on Ebay with good display. Once I bought not booting one - mtty job fixed that. Other time I bouht one where the display was still off - the flex cable popped out from connector. Etc....
Thanks for all the advice people! now, please welcome me to the HTC universal family, (well actually, I have a Dopod 900 but what the heck all are the same right?) your inputs had been essential, for me to get my new baby without any hitches I hope that nothing manifests after the one week assurance the seller gave me
Special thanks to enigma1nz for all the patience and help provided to me I asked her a lot of questions in the pm's but she answered in full detail
Now I have my own device so I will be flashing away, I hope without any problems. Again my thanks to the community hopefully there are more inputs for others who are thinking of buying their 2nd hand universal via meet ups
Excellent news! Congratulations!!! And welcome to the Uni family, of course. As you can see, we are one friendly bunch, all help and support will always be available. Have fun
Damn, I was hoping to do a very good Marlon Brando Godfather impersonation with 'Welcome to the family'
LOL
You started in the right direction!
to midnightsights : welcome
orb3000 said:
LOL
You started in the right direction!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
enigma1nz said:
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL.........
enigma1nz said:
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dear, you´re nice
you´ll be Orb4000!!!
Cheers and have a nice weekend,
Related
Disclaimer: This procedure voids the warranty and you can potentially damage your device.
This guide is for informative purposes only. Perform this procedure at your own risk.
This procedure was performed on an MDA2 (aka XDA2, Qtek2020, I-Mate2, etc).
Original Problem: The speaker stopped working.
Note: There seems to be a similar problem but it requires a totally different approach to fix it and it's out of the scope of this procedure. The problem on my device was somewhat different since when the speaker didn't work, the microphone was still functional. So the problem resides on the speaker connector, not the headphone jack.
Note2: English is not my first language, so please excuse any language errors you may encounter.
Let me start by saying that I have a big passion for gadgets and technology, so I was not going to let go on the opportunity to learn and inspect the guts of my brand new MDA2. You may ask yourself, why in the world don't you send it for repairs if it's a brand new device? Well, the answer is very simple, I bought this device over the Internet and I simply lost hope of being helped by the guys at the place I bought it from, they simply never answered or returned my calls and emails. I grew desperate and tired of using the headphones ALL THE TIME, even for alarms and reminders! and as I said before, I was driven by passion and thirst of knowledge and curiosity so I decided to fix it myself (even with the risk of damaging the device in the process). Let me add that I have some basic knowledge in electronics, and by no means this is my first device I fix. I have some experience. (I have fixed some damaged digitizers on a HP Jornada 568 PocketPC and Compaq iPAQ 3630 Pocket PC, fixed a volume slider on a SE T68i Phone and a SE P800 Smartphone to name a few).
Let me tell you that the MDA2 has been by far the easiest to fix. It's very well designed in terms of components and component placement, and the quality of the materials (plastics and electronics) is exceptional. But this is not a hardware review, so I'll start the walkthrough right now...
This is my victim... i mean... MDA2...
These are the tools required to complete the operation:
Torx #6 tool
Very small Phillips screwdriver (+)
Very small flat screwdriver (-)
Credit Card or similar card
A steady hand
Then I removed the SD Card and Stylus.
Proceed to remove the screws, there are two TORX#6 and four small Phillips (+). Be sure to put them on a safe place, they are very small screws and you don't want to loose them.
There are a couple of hidden Torx#6 screws under that black antenna cover, so we need to remove it. The plastic used in this part is not as dense as the rest of the casing (yes, the casing it's made of plastic!), so we need to be very careful not to break it, so apply very little force.
Start by using the flat screwdriver and insert it in the Stylus silo and use it as a lever (as shown), you will hear a "click" when the lock snaps. You will need flexible hands and dexterity since at this point you will also need to insert the flat screwdriver on the side square hole to release this side of the cover. (see next picture).
Here you can see the two squared-shaped holes where you need to insert the flat screwdriver to release the locks. Be very careful since there are some electronic components just below the square holes and do not apply excessive force to release the locks. Remember, the plastic is very thin on this part.
Now the other side, here you need to also use the flat screwdriver as a lever to release the lock on this side. Be very careful, since you will apply some force on the volume slider.
Now with the bottom part of the black cover released, you will notice there are some more locks to release on the top (just on the edge of the SD slot. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE COVER YET!
One more time we need the flat screwdriver as a lever. Insert the flat screwdriver (as shown) but not too deep. Apply very small force in the direction of the arrow and the edge will snap off releasing the cover.
The black cover is now free.
These are the two hidden Torx#6 screws. Proceed to remove them to release the antenna.
The antenna has been removed.
So far so good, now the toughest part of the whole procedure, opening the MDA2 case. You need to be very patient, do not rush since the finish on the case is very easy to scratch and dent. Proceed with the small flat screwdriver and you need to start from the bottom of the MDA2, In my case as soon as I removed all the screws I noticed a small gap on the bottom so I started from that point, but if you don't see the gap, you can start from the headphone jack hole. Please be gentle and don't try to rush.
At this point you can use a credit card to help release the locks that are located all around the case, this way you won't scratch or dent the case. Start counter-clockwise, that is to the left of the headphone jack towards the Stylus silo. Once you manage to release all the locks on that side of the case, just lift it very slowly and the opposite side will snap off very easily. However, be very careful on that side (where the buttons and volume slider is) since in that particular place the plastic is more fragile because of the holes needed for those controls.
Once the MDA2 has been opened in half you can see the three small black Phillips screws (+) (see picture). Proceed to remove them. Please avoid any contact with the electronic components, since at this point any static charge can damage your precious gadget. And also make sure you don't drop the screws or touch the components with the screwdriver, since the MDA2 it's still very alive. See that coin-shaped thing on the opposite side of the screws? That's a LiPo Battery, and it's keeping your data from being erased. By the way, don't try to beat the 20 minute retention time of the battery, you have made a backup right? So go slowly...
Ok. So far so good... This is the speaker, well, actually that's the speaker encased in a small black boxy thing with two gold plated connectors. (see next Pic for a close up).
As you can see, the two gold plated connectors on the speaker container match the two spring connectors on the mother board.
Ok, here we need to be very, very careful. I pulled both springs as shown on the picture above to give them a little more pressure when assembled again and I also cleaned the gold plated connectors on the speaker container. Make sure you apply only the necessary force to pull the springs since they could be disoldered if too much force is applied. Use common sense.
We're almost done!
Now proceed to put everything back together. Remember to put back all the screws in their correct positions and do not apply excessive force or you will damage the thread and make things worse that they where in the first place. Proceed to close the casing by doing the opposite. Start by placing the case on the buttons and volume slider side first then the opposite side.
You may notice that the camera lens will not allow the case to go all the way, but if you do it slowly it will budge.
Proceed with the rest of the assembly in reverse order.
That's it... You can proceed to test the speaker.
My MDA2 has been working flawlessly ever since!!! :wink:
I hope this procedure was helpful.
Best regards,
Rayan
All red crosses instead of pictures...
And then the pictures came
Nice walkthrough you've made !
thanks for the very good explanation!
Illustrated by pictures is always great!
Thanks
Thanks, this is my way of saying "Thank you" to this marvelous community! 8)
P.S.- If you don't see the images, please try again later, since those images are hosted on my webserver and sometimes I need to reboot it... sorry...
Best regards,
Rayan
Just a little bump since I've noticed that many people want to open their beloved devices and I thought my walkthrough might help...
MODS: Any chance to make it a "Post it?" :wink:
Best regards,
Rayan
Excellent post, cheers, and if English is your second langauge then I'd never have known it! There are plenty of people for whom it is their first langauge who can't write as well as you!
Wow. Your documentation is better than what comes with the XDA itself! And your English is better than most people in the US. Great service to the XDA community.
Excellent work, man!
Thanks guys!
I'm glad you liked it!
If anyone has questions about the procedure, please don't hessitate to ask!
Best regards,
Rayan
Great! Somethings in life are free, for opening your XDA II there's Mastercard!!!
hahahahaha
pictures are gone? or is it just me?
did anyone kept a copy?
Sooooo sorry guys... I switched to a new hosting company and recreated my website but forgot to restore those images... I will take them back online ASAP!
waiting for the pics to comeonline again!
please do it asap!
thanks
any luck putting the pictures back online ?
Hello folks!
Sorry for the loooong delay, but as you can see, the pics are back!!!
If you have any questions about the procedure, don't hesitate to ask.
Best regards,
Rayan
Can someone help me?
I had the same problem myself, except that i've done all the stuff you said and i still have the problem... I can hear the phone ringing, but no sound comes from the device (Alarms, appontments, Media Player, etc). When i answer the calls i can't hear any sound from the people who is calling me... Can someone help me?
:shock:
Gents,
Slightly off topic, so please bear with me.
My M1000 has had a problem ever since I got it. The camera seems out of focus as soon as I try to make pictures past say 1,5 meters. Would the serrated ring around the camera lens perhaps be used to focus the device?
Thanks!
Stefan out
I tried to move the serrated lens just to play with it and see if I could get better focus and remember that it was really hard as if it was glued or something.
However, I didn't apply much force but seems like it's meant to be some sort of focus adjustmet, specially because it looks very close to the lens in my webcam when disasembled.
Should you give it a try, let us know...
is there a way to power an ipaq 3630 without the power adapter but with a different battery? like a cel battery? how is the power conector to the ipaq and battery?
Hi,
As my wizard dropped in the water it got completely soaked.
I disassembled it to let it dry, see photos attached, put it together again and presto, almost everything works!!!
Just four keys of the keyboard do not work anymore, and as it all happened a week ago now I do not think this will be fixed.
Does anyone know if they do not work because of the water or because of the impact (the Wizard smashed on the street first)?
Has anybody ever fixed a faulty keypad?
Can anybody tell me where I can get a replacement keypad?
Let me know if you need instructions how to disassemble your wizard.
many thanks!
manhattan.
I have no answer to your question, but it is nice to see the inside of the wizard one time.
A couple of other people were asking about disassembly in other posts - so the instructions would probably be handy.
Hi,
I would love some complete instructions on dissasembly as I am about to take mine apart for painting and a hardware mod.
As far as the keyboard goes, you would be surpised how long they retain water, i doubt its a hardware problem, keyboard are pretty much solid state with only a tiny membrane for contacts. However it is this membrane that is most likely to be your problem, the contacts are very close together and covered in a film that can be verry attractive to water as it has rubber over it. So in essence I am saying I bet it is still wet in there, just a few droplets of condensation would do it.
Options, take it a apart and check and leave in a very warm dry place for a day, or II place whole wizard on a warm heater (not hot) for a while and see if that gets it.
T
Hi,
I also want to know the details of disassembly the wizard.
I think you had better post the instructions o disassembly here as I'm sure there are quite a few people who wuld like to know, me included.
Just a thought by looking at the picture (brave btw!)
Would it be possible to replace the 2,5mm headphone jack by an 3,5mm one and drill out a new hole for the larger connector?
Would be neat if you weren't so dependable on those stupid converters. Not a pretty sight anyway.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
I took mine apart some time ago to fix the stylist problem and when I put it back together some of the keys wouldnt work. The back light wouldnt work either. I found the problem was the little snap that secures the flat cable form the keyboard to the main board. There is a really small clasp that clicks down on the flat cable after you insert it into the connector. Once I took it back apart and snapped it, everything was normal again.
I plan on taking mine apart to change the keyboard form the English/arabic to just English, (anyone know where I can buy the keyboard/keys?) so any instructions you have will be appreciated.
Thanks
The stylii in the picture look like BA stylii.
Do I get 10 points?
will post instructions
OK guys I will put together the instructions and upload them here. I just have absolutely no time now so I hope you can wait a day or two....
Thanks for the comments. I am aware of the little lock that secures the mini flatcable that connects the keypad to the motherboard. I assume that is not the problem as I snapped it securely back in place.
I will try the heater suggestion, I suppose you mean to put the wizard in an oven set at let's say 50 degrees celsius?
The styluses in the photo are from my Qtek 2020. As the Wizard smashed I lost its stylus.... :-(
Sorry the photos do not show the display half of the wizard disassembled... I realised too late that others would benefit from pictures...
Cheers
Manhattan
I dont think I would put it in an oven. I would think that just inside a vehicle sitting in direct sunlight for a few hours would probably do, unless you are in a really cold climate. You may also try some electrical contact cleaner then get some additional heat to it after it evaportates. There is probably something that has trapped some moisture somewhere. Just for info, I dropped my Jamin the other night about 4 feet directly onto a tile floor. It bounced a couple times, ejected the SD card, and reset. But it is working fine. However, I had a bud that dropped his 2 day old Sony Ericsson P900 into water and dried it off immediatly and let it air dry. It worked, but he had problems ever since. It would drop calls and restart all the time. So there may not be a complete fix for it.
Good luck
Hey guys, someone posted the HTC Service manual for the Wizard!
In this manual you see pictures how to disassemble the phone!
It's realy the best manual to use for opening your mobile friend....
Good Luck
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=43836
I've successfully fixed my girlfriends crappy creative keyboard once after water damage using a pencil. Depending how the keyboard is made, most of the time there will be really thin conductive tracks literally printed on the substrate. The water isn't particularly nice to these tracks and I found that in some parts there was noticale oxidation/corrosion. By very lightly scratching of the affeted paint and then going over it with a graphite pencil this did the trick.
Just an idea, personally I probably wouldn't do it to my vario but then again I'm still in the honeymoon phase with it.
Good luck
I fix phones for a living for many stores and have many phones that have water damage
what you dont do is charge it.. it will burn out the board
what you do is let it dry out, use the service manual and let it dry out in parts
then get white spirit and a toothbrush... dip it in and clean the contacts for yourk eys
once done, again let it try and then see how it goes. thats what i do, although we have a machine that sends out sonic pulses but the above method works too especially when im lazy
HTC Wizard Disassembly
hi guys. a lot of confusion over this simple matter. I don't know where the PDF file everyone's talking about is, most links didnt work, but here's some pics. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! hahahahaha!
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
Hi,
I have a O2 xda model
IPL 1.01
SPL 2.21
GSM 01.12.10
OS 1.5.4.2
there is problem in formating the phone.
Even after a hard reset the Os wont boot,
it says that "formating is failed".
there is a prolem in the flash memory of the phone.
please help me with the assembly and disassembly process so that i can fix it.
Any one?
Hey Guys,
Well, I'm a bit gutted really! I dropped my XDA Mini S on the floor with the charger in and the connector IN the phone has come apart from inside the phone. The little metal bit is practically hanging out. I'm wondering, if i were to take the phone apart could i re-connect the little part? (I have a soldering iron if thats as simple as its going to be?)
Just wondering if anyone had any guides on how to take the phone apart and take a look at whats wrong?
Any help would be so much appreciated!
Many Thanks,
Tom
The service manual is hosted on the ftp site.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
Hope this helps.
I suspect you probably broke the socket off, but if you have a soldering iron, you might as well try to get a new mini USB connector to work with.
You might try Pocket PC Techs:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~UTStarcom_XV6700-554~area~repairs~item~REP-USBCON01~name~UTStarcom+XV6700+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
I rang them up about an issue I had (screen on the fritz) and they seemed pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
Alternatively there's a company I found today in the UK. I can't vouch if they're good or not.
http://www.xdarepairs.co.uk/home.asp
Good luck.
Well I also have an issue with my wizzard... the mini jack connector (of the handsfree) is a bit loose.
What I am saying is that it does have a good connection with the rest of the circuit and sometimes the sound of the speaker goes off, then I have to insert the habdsfree and tickle it a little bit until it has a good contact.
? have some basic soldering experience,do you think I should give it a try?
Given my device has been apart too many times for me to admit to I thought I'd crack it open to take a pic for you guys. Not sure if this pic will help for those wanting to do some soldering:
Very large pic: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/452691530_f47801708f_o.jpg
Excuse the dust.
Ah! That picture at the bottom is exactly what I needed. The metal but at the bottom (the big sqaure) has totally sheared off....bloody thing. Thanks so much for the info on the repair guides. I may give those repair guys a call if i can't get it to work myself.
Thanks alot you guys
As for you WizeMan, it all depends on if you wish to void your warrenty or not. At the end of the day, I installed WM6 on my device so O2 would give me the finger if i tryed to claim. If I'm honest, I'm getting an upgrade next month so I'm not to bothered if I balls it up! Would be nice if I got it working though....
Lemmie know how you get on
unlock k-jam
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
lironasseo said:
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A little bit of a thread hijack but that means it is SIM unlocked.
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
WizeMan said:
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
AsGF2MX said:
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allright here is the deal.
1. I found out the break in the soldier joints when i opened it. I was really suspicious about it because when i inserted my headphone jack into the connector, i had problem with the contact; the connector was loose and it muted my phones speaker. When i disassembled the phone using the service manual i saw with my eyes that the the joins where f-ed up.
2. I dont really need the signal hack i just wanted to experiment, i have 2.25.11 cingular radio rom and its great.
Btw i suppose you should better use the sponge, because the rubber may wear off but not the sponge...
Thanks for the tip on the sponge. I am going to grab a used but allegedly "like new" body from eBay and also get one of those covers as well.
received my dell venue pro late may 2011
i'm currently stationed in the Philippines so I had my unlocked Dell Venue Pro 16g shipped to me by a friend.
it is now June 12 and i've had the phone for less than a month. yesterday the external speaker stopped working out of no where. it was working fine earlier.
the internal speaker works fine. i can make phone calls hear perfectly. i can also insert a headset and all the application sounds work fine such as Zune
my problem is the external speaker. regardless of what volume it is on [ 0 - 30 ] there is no sound coming out
OS VERSION : 7.0.7392.0
My problem is I am stationed in the Philippines and Dell has the worst Customer Service. the last time I had a problem using my credit card JUST to order the phone and I spent over $100 USD just on international calls.
I can't imagine what it's going to cost me to talk to another customer service rep or even safely ship this back to dell and receive a new phone.
If anyone can help me with a solution. please. please do so.
I had a similar problem before I received my replacement. Try removing the battery cover and pressing down on the back in the large area above the speakers. If it's a short (like mine was), pressing down might restore the connection to the speakers and give you sound. Load up the Zune hub and try playing a song to test it.
i also had a problem like this. i restored the conection by pressing down hard just below and on the space bar on the keyboard.
ok. this is weird but the two methods actually worked. i tried both. the sound came back.
what in the world caused this problem in the first place?
i appreciate the replies. thank you very much to the both of you.
I have this problem too, I dropped the phone in its otterbox case at a significant height. I did what you guys said and I heard a clicking sound when I pressed the the area below the space bar. Sound was restored, but I noticed when I took off the otterbox case the phone loses sound unless I press hard.
The sound disappears when there is no pressure on the back of the phone, so when the battery cover is removed this problem is most noticeable. Now I would send this in for warranty, but I am in Canada and I had the phone shipped to a relative in Seattle, I doubt Dell will let me warraty this in Canada.
To save my self the long drive and hassle with dealing with Dell I would rather find a better solution. Im guessing the area where the speaker connects is loose. Is it possible if the screws came loose in that back area? Would loosening them and tightening them work. Or is something else wrong? Is there perhaps a tear down instruction manual for this phone? Can I fix it myself? Otherwise I have to leave the phone in its case for its whole life and I'd rather not do that...
Big thanks to the two helpful posts. Clicked thanks button twice for that
Anyhow, just wanted to mention that mine came loose just from plugging in and out the USB charger. The car charger has a springy cable and might be the culprit as I tag on it.
Which version did you get? Pcs or aws. Pldt uses pcs, right? My company has an office in manila and we were thinking about sending a few dvp out there.
Sent from my Venue Pro using XDA Windows Phone 7 App
I was having the same problem and tried the solution mentioned (pressing down hard) and it also restored the sound! I think this is a sign of a poor build quality.
I too was having the same issue. I had been without sound for the last week and only today, without doing anything in particular, the sound came back. I am not sure for how long though! I was going to hard reset the phone this weekend to see if it was the Mango update that caused the problem (it only happened after the update). I guess I will wait it out and see.
My DVP has the similar problem after 10 days. Actually it is not completely soundless. But the volume is too low to hear 10cm away from my ear. It may not be hardware failure. The problem is I lost my backup point at 7392 and I am in China. Any one can help me to restore to 7392?
leonardli said:
My DVP has the similar problem after 10 days. Actually it is not completely soundless. But the volume is too low to hear 10cm away from my ear. It may not be hardware failure. The problem is I lost my backup point at 7392 and I am in China. Any one can help me to restore to 7392?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are out of luck...Backups are device specific
MJCS said:
You are out of luck...Backups are device specific
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds my DVP is dead. Getting it back to Dell may be the only solution. I am thinking of buying a second-hand palm pre while the DVP away from me.
Hi,
I'd like to thanks for the solution of pressing below the space bar. It worked for me. Strange problem... Thanks !!!
edmichel said:
Hi,I'd like to thanks for the solution of pressing below the space bar. It worked for me. Strange problem... Thanks !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a less physical solution is simply blow air into the microUSB port. keep doing it and the speaker will come back. if you have compressed air, a brief shot would do.
pressing corner helped me too, not sure for how long
Had a similar problem. If you tear down the DVP as if you are replacing the screen
Once you get the two halves separated, remove the keyboard. Below the keyboard is the "speaker" it has two small progs if memory serves if you take a small screwdriver and pry them up and reassemble all will work well .
The "pressing" solution (if it works) effectively bends the back of the cover and forces the contact.
I will try to post a teardown of the DVP with screen replacement (ALL THE WAY.. current video on Youtube stops before you have to replace the screen itself.. as it assumes you have the more complete part (with is no longer available, only the glass is now)
cdgoin said:
Had a similar problem. If you tear down the DVP as if you are replacing the screen
Once you get the two halves separated, remove the keyboard. Below the keyboard is the "speaker" it has two small progs if memory serves if you take a small screwdriver and pry them up and reassemble all will work well .
The "pressing" solution (if it works) effectively bends the back of the cover and forces the contact.
I will try to post a teardown of the DVP with screen replacement (ALL THE WAY.. current video on Youtube stops before you have to replace the screen itself.. as it assumes you have the more complete part (with is no longer available, only the glass is now)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might not want to pry up the speaker pins too hard though as they're spring loaded but has a small clip stopper that restrains the pin from over bending the wrong way. If you get it pass the clip, you have to make sure to put the pin back into the loop clip. It'll be more clear when you have it in front of you.
I usually just clean the contacts (pins and board side) with a screw driver/sandpaper and it'll be all good.
And a teardown will always be awesome cdgoin :good: Peeps might want to seal the LCD to the glass part with a little glue gun glue too to avoid dust getting into the screen. I find sealing the top ear piece part does the trick (bottom part helps too).
This is a strange solution but works!
Shoot2ill said:
I had a similar problem before I received my replacement. Try removing the battery cover and pressing down on the back in the large area above the speakers. If it's a short (like mine was), pressing down might restore the connection to the speakers and give you sound. Load up the Zune hub and try playing a song to test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This worked with my Samsung Galaxy S (Mark I) too!
Thank you. After being without sound for months and wondering if I messed up the OS or needed a hardware fix ($$$) - this worked.
Before Reading,
Don't forget to --> click thanks button if you found my post useful, you won't be killed if you click that button LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inspired from members' aging x1 and SESC full of crap... I'm gladly introduce you this full guide that isn't supposed to be exposed. But IMHO, it is supposed to be known by X1 owner.
I think every X1 headset is out of warranty now. While Sony Ericsson Service Centre is always full of crap, bringing broken X1 is absolutely not good idea.
They will asking "faithful" price sometimes the price is higher than the phone itself. Shame on Sony Ericsson.
So please read this guide before you bring your phone to SESC or any Service Centre.
NOTICE: However I'm not responsible to anything. SO take on your own risk!
1. What is in your X1?
Download these pdfs to read the components in your X1
a. Component in your motherboard (Advance user)
b. Component in your handset (Moderate user)
2. How to (dis)assembly your X1?
Download there pdfs to (dis)assembly your X1 in proffesional way
a. Videos in PDF (high bandwidth ISP or no FUP ISP)
b. Pictures in PDF (low bandwidth ISP or limited quota ISP)
3. How to diagnose and repair your broken X1?
Download there pdfs to repair on yourself
a. Problem and solution related to mainboard (Advance user), (!) read "Component in your motherboard
b. Problem and solution related to phone component (Moderate use)
Additional Fixing COMMON ISSUE GUIDE
(thanks to Hkt, triondave, mymailx and russell.eclair (aka rx.eclair)
Taken from local forums and some from XDA-Developers, it's weird some of these methods are never been shared to here...
1. Broken Flex Cable
Diagnose:
a. When slide out, the digitizer (touchscreen panel) isn't working (screen might be working).
b. When slide out, the screen goes blank
c. The mic and front camera buzzing
Repair:
a. FIRST Aid, (It's temporary and somehow fail if you are not skilled, in unkown way)
First method "Tape Patching",
- You can also apply this method preventing this problem while you like using the XPERIA X1 keyboard.
- As easy as ABC, just put insulator tape on the scratch side of flex cable -see blue rectangle with red 'X' inside.
- You may put on another side but it will give a hard slide-out.
Second method "Arc Manipulator", (it's working)
- Try this when you are failing from the first method.
- You can make a very thin plastic with a proper size -see black rectangle with red 'X' inside- and the thick of the plastic should not be thicker than half height of left compartment -see gray rectangle. (I use broken Lego, about 2-3 mm thick and 1x2 cm large)
- Glued it as close as possible to the edge of the 'arc' flex cable -see yellow line.
Explanation: So even the flex cable being retracted while the slider out, the position of 'arc' flex cable is manipulated as closed slider flex cable position. You've got to be sure that the thick of the plastic will not make the flex cable out of the housing so for assurance, try to move the slide locker upside down several times -see gree rectangle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
b. Replace with new flex cable
- search on eBay is the cheapest price. In my country, the price is usually half than local shop but need to wait several weeks.
- After buy the replacement, see the guide to assembling your phone above
How long will it last?
- It's various based on how often you slide it out
Prevention:
- refer to point a.1 (isolate the flex cable) might be useful
- slide it out smoothly (because every time you slide it out roughly, the flex cable being tracked)
- Never / once upon time to slide your X1 out.
2. Unreponsive keyboard
It's very easy to repair it...
[Tutorial] Cleaning X1 Keyboard (Disassemble)
NEVER! follow the threa that is started by hatlo0or, because it is just horrible for beginner and offensive word for some person.
3. Scratching Housing
There's no other way to make it as new, replacing the houding is quite cheap right now. I found that the price varies from 12 to 70 USD.
Which one to buy?
I bought 3 housing for me myself and 1 for my friend.
* I compare those, priced arround 12 USD is better built than priced arround 20 USD.
** the 12 USD is fitted well and the chrome is shinner than 20 USD, the 20 USD Priced is not fitted and quite tricky to assembling it.
*** However the arround 70 USD is the best because it's complete. The housing with 12 and 20 USD have no keyboard but the 70 USD is quite good with keyboard.
Now I am using the keyboard and backplate from the 70 USD priced housing. but for front case and rear case, I used from 12 USD priced housing. As soon as, bought a leather case to prevent it from scratching...
Update!4. Unresponsive Volume Key
Okay, it has been long time that I've been vacuum. After 2-3 years, my X1 has been so terribly damaged. Now, I'm gonna share something else to you all. I dunno know how much people will be helped by this thread since only 20 persons who give comment while 8000 eyes (2x 4000 ppl) read this. But who care? so far there's noone complain.
To be honest, I finally buy another brand new XPERIA X1 from local shop (old stock) with great price because my X1 is what I called "un-help-able"LOL. The problem is unresponsive volume key.
First time, I think it is caused by faulty button but I don't find it wrong after checking up. And after several days' analysis, I found that it is caused by something on motherboard (but I could not determine which one, someone know?). However, the solution is just put something (paper, clip with thickness less than half milimeter) over the USB port (there's a slight gap between the housing and USB port) so it will push down the USB Connector (and Mother board), for unknown reason, your volume key back to normal.
I'm surprised that there are still ones who use X1 since the only person I know using this X1 in my city is me... lol
I just love X1 unfortunately death Sony Ericsson just like White Star Line who make Titanic for becoming so weak.
Thanks for sharing and the credit ;-)
looking good, hope it will be kept up to date
stuck it for the time being
BR, DK
Great GUIDE,THX
Your information is very useful
Your information is very useful and I learnt much from it! Keep working...
Very usefull thread it helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
OnThomaz said:
It helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
J0hnTR said:
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
You need only:
1. Micro- scissors (No idea how to say it in English) but razor blade is okay (I always used my husband's)
Just very careful to slide between the display and the digitizer or it might break your LCD as well.
Suggest you to search on youtube maybe there's no tutorial about how to replace X1 digitizer but there's a lot tutorial how to separate 'em on other models.
Just watch and learn from those videos. After you have courage, just try it. But I won't take any responsible for you acts. Because everyone's skill is different, I have no idea on yours. One advice from me is be patient and don't execute any acts until you are really sure on what you do.
VSJ said:
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. I knew it will be hard to disassemble Xperia X1..
And then I looked into the Disassembling Guide - it will be impossible to disassemble it at home!)
Thanks, will search for some repair center!
Wow,, thanks! Great one
Thx for the great GUIDE)
+1
Broken link
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
the_analyst said:
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I don't know about that, I just copy paste the link from a local forum.
You may contact rx.eclair (kaskus) or russell.eclair (xda-developers) for questions about the link and so on
Fix Link
http://www.4shared.com/office/JVcaZCN8/component_of_the_motherboard.html
Here is the Component of The Motherboard of X1.
thanks for posting this.
It sucks having to dissasemble the phone to clean the keyboard every now and then. I wonder, is there anyway to prevent it from ever happening again?
Thanks for the extremely useful guide mate!
thanks as the aging X1 will surely need this.
Nice guide, but i still with the volume/keyboard problems...
Like some others, i have traced the proble to the motherboard, but i can't find the real cause... I think, it might be some cold solder or a faulty ground connection (this may explain why if you push the usb connector, the keys start to work again)
Great Job Bro
Great Job Bro!! Solved Problem with my X!
Thanks (;
Hi guys.
I have an old SE X1 lying around. The keyboard was not working properly, so I sent it in under warranty, but they sent it back saying I had physically damaged the screen, so my warranty was void.
When I got it back it wasn't even switching on, so I opened it up and found 2 small components broken off the mainboard. I don't know what they were but I've taken a photo of their locations, so if someone opens their phone, could they tell me what they were? It would also be brilliant if you could measure their values. I want to try soldering some replacements on...
I can't post the link to the image as an image, so I'll link it here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/98849791/DSC_1531.jpg
I'd love to get this thing working again, I miss it.
Thanks, Jodie.