My audio socket connector part for atom xda life is broken. I broke 2 of the pins total 6 pins.
I try to search the internet to look for the sparepart
the sparepart looks like 2SJ-A427-001 Singatron Enterprise model.
However i try to return back to service center and they mentioned to replace with new motherboard and cost me grand new atom life phone
If anyone could help me, where to buy it.
Thanks.
You can fix it yourself by purchasing the audio socket. To do this you would need some experience with soldering irons. This would involve you using the soldering iron to melt the solder and preferably remove the solder from the circuit which holds the socket in place. Once the solder has been removed you can detach the broken socket and place your one in the same slot. From there just feed solder to the circuit while melting it to the board.
Alternatively, you could search around a bit more for more service centres to get the motherboard cheaper or you could purchase a brand new atom if its really that expensive.
Related
I'm trying to mount a powermat inside a Galaxy S2 phone to allow wireless charging.
Unfortunately the logic circuit of the S2 insists that the charging of the S2 is routed via the USB connector else the charging isn't detected leading to potential overcharge situations.
Therefore I'm looking for the smallest Micro USB connector available (height wise) that I can wire the powermat wires to. I'd prefer the Micro USB connector to come with a rubberised cover as I use the Case Mate Tough cases for the phone so a connector that was almost flush with that case and also rubberised would be perfect.
I'm in the UK so UK sourcing would be preferable but all suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone have any ideas?
You can look at buying some just raw connectors like
http://www.newark.com/fci/10104109-...ce-mount/dp/82R7423?in_merch=Popular Products
Or do some research and find some other ones with different mounting options. The thing is it is hard to get much smaller.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/br...etricAttributeId=&prevNValues=422+2203+202174
Can't you wire it from the inside? By soldering directly to the pins of mUSB connector on the mainboard?
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
That is an option but if you don't have the tools I wouldn't mess with it. Those boards are dense and unless you have a fine enough tip it is going to be hard to make a good connection.
pinsb said:
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
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Click to collapse
Well I can tell you from experience that they are small. ~0.25mm. Look at a how big a mm is on a ruler and cut that into 1/42 and that's what you are looking to solder to. You would need some fine wire that is shielded so it doesn't short and it requires some solid soldering skills.
I used to do this for a living. You could call up some local jewelers or repair shops and see if they have a laser welder. Ask them if they do custom work. Though it would have to be a relatively big place though, as those machines runs thousands of dollars. I worked for Jostens.
Hi pinsb,
Did you ever find anything? I am looking for the same thing for a slightly different purpose. I want to put a usb circuit inside an enclosure with the phone and don't want to have the connector sticking out the side.
I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.
A1will said:
I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.
DrFredPhD said:
Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What makes it so difficult?
Or by me asking do I show that I'm in over my head? lol
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Abdur Desai said:
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best option would be to take it to a repair shop... it might cost you $50, but hopefully they can replace it with the right USB port (the one Nvidia used is slightly different from most micro-USB ports you see on devices, so it's not a very snug fit, hence the problem.)
I have the evga tn7 that i bought from newegg. Would they still honor my warrenty on the broken charging port even though I have my bootloader unlocked?
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
share_needles said:
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has to be plugged in a certain way or it refuses to charge outright. Even when I have it in the proper way it might not charge at all but reports its charging. The strange thing is that it can still detect what type of charging method (usb or AC) im using even though it wont charge.
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
sorry for necroing this post but i'm having the same issue. i've thought the same as you of replacing the port with a micro b. i have only one question: is there any problem with replacing it with a micro b? or no problem at all
Digging up this old thread to post link to UK service for Nvidia Tegra Note 7 Micro USB Charging Port Repair Service,
Here:- http://www.mobiledeviceworkshop.co....o-usb-charging-port-repair-service-3080-p.asp
Charge of £29.00 all inclusive of return delivery (+£5.00 for next day delivery)..
EDIT: Think this is same part for Nvidia Tegra note 7 (ebay, £1.29).
New HP SLATE 7 HD Replacement Micro USB DC Charging Socket Port Connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HP-SL...cab7f36&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=131877863523
EDIT: Some spare parts, Cherry Mobile Tegra Note 7 Spare Parts & Accessories
(Indian version Tegra note 7, presumably mostly same as Advent, but seems to have built-in internet, prices in Rupees)
https://www.maxbhi.com/cherry-mobile-tegra-note-7-spare-parts-and-accessories.html
Thanks
ad1876 said:
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your correct advise.
I had a long battle getting my Xolo Tegra Note fixed in Pune.
Xolo service center people told me that because I have down graded my tablet to KitKat, now motherboard is gone. After that I went to local mobile repair shop, he told me it's very difficult fix this as the joint are very small and soldering can damage other things as well.
After visiting a few repair shop in Pimpri market, I found a guy who did it. I found the same issue of minor crack which he found using multiple magnifying glasses.
It's better to visit a good repair shop not a small one as the issue won't be visible without magnifying glasses.
Let me know if anyone wants to get it fixed in India, Pune. I will share the mobile shop address.
The microusb port on my n7 2012 isn't working anymore... Is there any way to charge it without the micro usb port?
use a dock, good luck finding one at this point.
alternatively repair or replace the usb port. a repair can be done with some rosin core solder and a soldering iron. you simply reshape the metal part of the connector and apply solder to the joint where the pieces of the metal meet. havent had an issue since i did that.
Buy another USB port/headset adapter from EBAY, they cost like $15 I've broken about 4 of them and its very easy to replace. You remove the back cover, lift out the battery and disconnect it. You don't need to solder anything if you just get a new port.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Power-C...844?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23449c1ff4
I used this one on my N7, less than $10 - worked great, and as mentioned above, you just need a small screw driver.
I will be using this thread to track my upgrade of the amplifier chip on the Intel Sofia based Joying units.
I chose the Pioneer PA2030A but apparently you can also use the TDA7850 chip.
To quote @kampfschachtel:
If your speakers are 4 ohm I would use the Pioneer as it has more power at 4 ohm, if you have 2 ohm speakers (like eg a lot of the BMW ones) then the TDA7850 is your choice. Be aware you get orginals as they are lot low quality clones on the market.
Joying radio and new Pioneer PA2030A chip
You can see in the back where the amp chip is anchored in the metal frame with two screws. The metal frame provides some cooling.
First step: take unit apart using the 2 screws - 1 on each side. At this step, say goodbye to your warranty!
1 more screws on the back and then you can take the top cover off
Behold! The internals!
Slide up the 2 USB cables from the frame and carefully disconnect the single USB cable from the board, the ribbon cable from the motherboard (which takes video and touch input to the screen) and then on the back, unscrew the GPS antenna from the frame. The other bundle of mic, radio antenna and USB cable just keep as is, as it's more work to untangle the wires.
NOTE! The ribbon cable uses a slide-lock to keep the cable in. Carefully pull the brown slider back and then remove the ribbon from the slot. Don't force it or you may damage it and will need to get a new ribbon.
Your can see the cables that were removed.
Next remove the following 4 screws and also the smaller 2 screws holding the amp chip to the frame
You can see the metal bracket that holds the amp chip falls off. Notice in the back, that the amp chip is held to the frame with some thermal paste. We'll need some more of that later when the chip is replaced.
Remove 2 more bolts that hold the motherboard - on the corners. 1 you can see where my screwdriver is resting.
Carefully pry out the board from the case.
You can see the chip we'll replace and the solders in the back that we'll have to work with.
NOTE: interesting marking on the board - PX3-MAIN. Other folks might know more on this, but did they re-use the main host board from their other stereos with minor modifications? Looks like it.
Next step - warm up the solder gun!
Time to go find my solder gun... dammit! Where did I put it? Haha!
You're going to want to pay attention to how high the chip sits on the board as the new one will have to be at a similar height to bolt back to the metal frame.
---removed---
Another side note... It looks like the SD card reader board has space for another SD card reader slot. If one wants dual SD card, maybe another soldering project down the line? The metal frame is also pre-cut for the second slot so it would be an easy project!
Making slow progress on removing the chip. A nice solder sucker would be great right now!
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Flemischguy said:
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
bogdi1988 said:
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
So I got the chip soldered. Ran a quick test and got audio, but the channels are all over the place. Gotta trace all my solders to make sure I didn't mess up anything.
Flemischguy said:
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I did use a classic one.
I might have to re-do all solders.
Well, until I figure out my solder stuff... feedback on what I was able to test as it was.
Audio was significantly more powerful! Quite a difference! I'll spend some more time on this over the next couple days.
It is a tricky mod, but worth it!
I think my chip might be faulty so I got a new one coming in next week. I'll update this post next week when I get it