Related
First, let me say that I'm definitely a newbie to the 8525, but have spent some time looking over the wiki and searching for answers to my problem, only to come up empty...
I bought an AT&T 8525, with the original WM 5 installed, from eBay. The device has a 14 day warranty and physically appears to be in excellent condition. However, it has two very serious issues that I can't seem to find a simple solution for. Any thoughts, help, etc on the items below would be greatly appreciated!
1. After using the device and turning it off, after it sits for a while it will not power back on. Pressing the power button or none of the other buttons make a difference. The battery is reading fully charged and it still happens when it is plugged into a charger. The only way to make it respond is to perform a soft reset on it. The cycle then just starts over, having reset it about 10 times in a few hours of playing with it.
2. When it reboots, the following appears on the AT&T splash along the bottom:
M 05
S 04
B 06
D 2.15
"No GSM" then appears (I've read about this issue in the wiki just a bit) This occurs with my valid SIM card from another cell phone inserted. When looking at the device info in Settings, the Radio Version label is blank. Upon switching to the hardware tab, the IMEI is also blank.
It just now froze while on, after only performing a soft reset and leaving it with no running items in the background.
Any tips for repairing this, etc appreciated. I really like the form factor of the phone and want to use it, but unfortunately I'm afraid that I'm going to need to send the device back to the seller!
Thanks for taking the time to read this and for any responses.
Sounds like your radio is dead:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=349461
Send it back!
What you have is a PDA. NOT a functioning Phone.... With no IMEI your phone function is gone totally. You need to read about any problems the phone has, the seller has to list it legally or will have to refund especially if paid through paypal.
If you do buy a Hermes through ebay, make sure there is no problem with radio or screen\keys. These can be hard to fix and may be a sign of other problems. Also keep a copy of all Emails sent and recieved to\from the seller so you have proof of whats was said. Can only help if the seller decides to be a pain about refunding cash.
Cheers...
I have a bricked 8525 and have those two exact symtoms. If mtty doesn't get it fixed, throw it back to the seller.
Mate, I wouldn't even bother playing with it. If something is different and can be tracked back to you then I can guarantee YOU'LL be blamed for the condition. Send it back for a refund and look for a working Hermes, don't screw around with it or you'll be out of pocket with a virtual paperweight...
Stumbled upon this a bit ago, a company called Mobile Tech is offering an "unbricking" service on all versions of the Galaxy Tab. At the time of this writing they charge $50. I have not used this service, am not in any affiliated with this company and cannot vouch for their work, so beware. Just thought someone out there might use this when other options aren't available.
They have a nifty video up on youtube showing how they do it:
it will be a good help for those who brick their tab because they ain't follow the steps .. thanks for sharing this out
I can actually vouch third party for this service. Have had two friends use it and the device was returned within a few days. If I'm not mistaken, the guy lives in the southern US, but can arrange international he says.
Sent from my "better than an iPad" tab... Running Overcome GINGERBREAD!!!
This is cool, but I would recommend trying to go through Samsung first if you are still under warranty. I screwed up my primary bootloader and contacted them. They took care of shipping costs, fixed it up, and sent it back in about a week and a half. If Samsung hadn't fixed it I would defiantly have payed the $50 here though.
WOW, that seems like a lot of work for $50.
Thanks for the info, should I ever screw something up its nice to know there are people out there who can clean up my mess!
spacemoose1 said:
a company called Mobile Tech is offering an "unbricking" service on all versions of the Galaxy Tab.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi spacemoose1
Thanks for link and as always, thanks for honeycomb port. I would like to ascertain the definition of BRICK? with your help, if I may.
(disclaimer: pls forgive my wrong terms or exagerated explanation, but most importantly, pls correct me if I'm wrong)
BRICKed = software total lost, must use JTAG to force revive it, Samsung has it, or buy from web supplier around 300 USD ??? 500 USD ???
JTAG is a device to push software into all newly borned IC. I.E. when factory make IC, it's empty software inside, hence has a special device to push voltage into all sections of the IC, then force the code in.
Another term is ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???, (I don't know) anyway is not BRICKed, hence a reflash can recover it.
Samsung uses proprietary method a lot, not follow conventional, make usb driver very complex. USB driver install EXE around 15MB to 28MB depends on version, ALL work the same.
but, when the device = sgt7 in different state/condition, the driver must RE-ESTABLISH again, or else cannot work.
I.E.
state 1 = "OPERATIONAL"device in android operation, normal use, surf web, phone call etc
state 2 = "SLEEP" device powered off, show battery big icon charging when powered by charger
state 3 = RECOVERY mode
state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode - this is one of the way to FORCE flash to recover, as long as bootloader and something still intact
state 5 = PHONE-!-PC mode
stage 6 = "COMA" device powered off, NO show of battery big icon, even when charger supplied. Don't panic, let it charge fully 4 hours from 2 amperes supply, 10 hours from PC 500mA. It will start again !!!. Battery big icon will appear around 30% battery charged, I know because that's what I saw. I didn't check when it's in 10% or 20%. The 1st time I check was already 30% up from no-boot or no respone.
User need to plug device into PC during each of the state above at least once, in order for various flashing functions to work.
i.e. when it's a newly arrived device, usually install the usb driver 1st, with device state in android OS running properly, then plug in to USB and see "new device detected" installing, pls wait. Finished.
But when flashing via Odin using state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, user may experience no connection, no COM3 or something. Because device must be unplugged in USB, power-up in state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, plug in USB, "new device detected" installing = RE-ESTABLISH, done. UNPLUG USB, replug in usb, then COM3 appears FLASH will be succesfull.
same goes for other state.
p.s. many users reported BRICKed but then recovered WITHOUT JTAG is misleading beginners, hence should rename the term to ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???. although some previously use "SEMI-brick", which is acceptable.
stage 3 = ClockWorkMod flashing (super convenient, especially on the move without PC)
stage 4 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
stage 5 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
???CRASH??? or ???HANG??? or "SEMI-brick" is usually SUCCESFULLY recovered via restock+PIT
(final disclaimer, incase above is correct and help and is copied, pls correct whatever mistakes found, feel free.)
*** Thanks for all those who taught me my mistakes *** devs and fellow forumers
ManticoreX said:
This is cool, but I would recommend trying to go through Samsung first if you are still under warranty. I screwed up my primary bootloader and contacted them. They took care of shipping costs, fixed it up, and sent it back in about a week and a half. If Samsung hadn't fixed it I would defiantly have payed the $50 here though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, warranty repair is always a better choice. But sometimes you've already voided the warranty, lol.
I guess, if u change factory installed rom/kernel warranty gonna be history
thanx for the post ... it might gonna be the last resort...
cx5 said:
Hi spacemoose1
Thanks for link and as always, thanks for honeycomb port. I would like to ascertain the definition of BRICK? with your help, if I may.
(disclaimer: pls forgive my wrong terms or exagerated explanation, but most importantly, pls correct me if I'm wrong)
BRICKed = software total lost, must use JTAG to force revive it, Samsung has it, or buy from web supplier around 300 USD ??? 500 USD ???
JTAG is a device to push software into all newly borned IC. I.E. when factory make IC, it's empty software inside, hence has a special device to push voltage into all sections of the IC, then force the code in.
Another term is ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???, (I don't know) anyway is not BRICKed, hence a reflash can recover it.
Samsung uses proprietary method a lot, not follow conventional, make usb driver very complex. USB driver install EXE around 15MB to 28MB depends on version, ALL work the same.
but, when the device = sgt7 in different state/condition, the driver must RE-ESTABLISH again, or else cannot work.
I.E.
state 1 = "OPERATIONAL"device in android operation, normal use, surf web, phone call etc
state 2 = "SLEEP" device powered off, show battery big icon charging when powered by charger
state 3 = RECOVERY mode
state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode - this is one of the way to FORCE flash to recover, as long as bootloader and something still intact
state 5 = PHONE-!-PC mode
stage 6 = "COMA" device powered off, NO show of battery big icon, even when charger supplied. Don't panic, let it charge fully 4 hours from 2 amperes supply, 10 hours from PC 500mA. It will start again !!!. Battery big icon will appear around 30% battery charged, I know because that's what I saw. I didn't check when it's in 10% or 20%. The 1st time I check was already 30% up from no-boot or no respone.
User need to plug device into PC during each of the state above at least once, in order for various flashing functions to work.
i.e. when it's a newly arrived device, usually install the usb driver 1st, with device state in android OS running properly, then plug in to USB and see "new device detected" installing, pls wait. Finished.
But when flashing via Odin using state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, user may experience no connection, no COM3 or something. Because device must be unplugged in USB, power-up in state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, plug in USB, "new device detected" installing = RE-ESTABLISH, done. UNPLUG USB, replug in usb, then COM3 appears FLASH will be succesfull.
same goes for other state.
p.s. many users reported BRICKed but then recovered WITHOUT JTAG is misleading beginners, hence should rename the term to ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???. although some previously use "SEMI-brick", which is acceptable.
stage 3 = ClockWorkMod flashing (super convenient, especially on the move without PC)
stage 4 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
stage 5 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
???CRASH??? or ???HANG??? or "SEMI-brick" is usually SUCCESFULLY recovered via restock+PIT
(final disclaimer, incase above is correct and help and is copied, pls correct whatever mistakes found, feel free.)
*** Thanks for all those who taught me my mistakes *** devs and fellow forumers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pretty much agree, but I might refine:
BRICK= Unit does not power up, visibly charge, reach a boot-screen of any kind including a service or "download" screen. A device in this state requires service from the manufacturer or an individual equipped with the proper tools. There is no other way to recover a device in this state.
SOFT-BRICK= Unit powers up, reaches a "download" or service screen, visibly charges but does not boot into an OS. Crashing, hanging etc. all apply here. It is easy to recover a device from this state so long as one has access to a firmware that was designed for the device and the ability to flash said firmware.
SEMI-BRICK= See soft-brick above
JTAG= Provides access to system hardware by applying the correct voltage to the correct pins in order to push software via an external program.
In regards to the usb drivers, there are only actually 4 states
1. Active userspace
2. Serial gadget mode
3. Recovery
4. USB storage mode
And there is a separate driver for each of these (except recovery) in the Samsung driver package that should install automatically when the device is plugged in during normal use on a stock rom, or with the installation package available on the web.
The rest of it you've got pretty much correct.
Money seems right, but the amount of work that guy has to go thru is amazing, so much to tare it apart, and reassemble. Then again when it is put back toether, he checks it, what if it did not take the fix... all over again.
Hardbricked Tab Save by Mobile Tech
I hardbricked my galaxy tab bought in Cambodia. My little brother open the tab trying to take the battery off and put it back on, thus void the warranty, found him on the Samsung vibrant forum, sent the tab to him got it back good as new. This person is professional, honest and good communication with his customers, you'll be happy with his work, if he can't fix it you get your money back (minus shipping and diagnosis)...Glad he is arround to help...
spacemoose1 said:
I pretty much agree, but I might refine:
BRICK= Unit does not power up, visibly charge, reach a boot-screen of any kind including a service or "download" screen. A device in this state requires service from the manufacturer or an individual equipped with the proper tools. There is no other way to recover a device in this state.
SOFT-BRICK= Unit powers up, reaches a "download" or service screen, visibly charges but does not boot into an OS. Crashing, hanging etc. all apply here. It is easy to recover a device from this state so long as one has access to a firmware that was designed for the device and the ability to flash said firmware.
SEMI-BRICK= See soft-brick above
JTAG= Provides access to system hardware by applying the correct voltage to the correct pins in order to push software via an external program.
In regards to the usb drivers, there are only actually 4 states
1. Active userspace
2. Serial gadget mode
3. Recovery
4. USB storage mode
And there is a separate driver for each of these (except recovery) in the Samsung driver package that should install automatically when the device is plugged in during normal use on a stock rom, or with the installation package available on the web.
The rest of it you've got pretty much correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should post this in Q/A thread on its own as its very helpful and maybe it will stop the 1% of people saying help my phone is bricked comments ... the other 99% don't read anyway otherwise they would discover their phone isn't bricked and if they read properly it would not have gotten to the state in the first place .. and no I never posted something like that myself >:¬}
but well done on this..
alexgogan said:
You should post this in Q/A thread on its own as its very helpful and maybe it will stop the 1% of people saying help my phone is bricked comments ... the other 99% don't read anyway otherwise they would discover their phone isn't bricked and if they read properly it would not have gotten to the state in the first place .. and no I never posted something like that myself >:¬}
but well done on this..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
Nice find. For that amount of effort disassembling, and reviving, $50 is a very realistic price. I'll keep these guys in mind if I run into issues with my tab.
$50 for that much work is an absolute bargain! I wish I didn't live in a country where you get charged $200/hr for someone to pick their nose.
It's actually not that much more difficult than popping an OS install CD into a hosed computer and pressing 3 keys to let it run through the installation after flashing a corrupt motherboard BIOS. Yes, it takes familiarity with the software and hardware, but it's by no means a feat that requires a special skillset.
Granted, few people have JTAG stuff handy, so $50 is definitely worth it if you've hosed your device, but don't make it sound like he's sweating and coding the bootloader by hand, strenuously manipulating micro tools to disassemble the tablet and flipping DIP switches to restore the bootloader. You spend 5 minutes taking apart the tablet, you attach the JTAG cable, run the supplied software on your computer, and sit there recording the screen with your video recorder while the progressbar moves from 0 to 100.
Again, it's worth $50 simply because not everyone and their mother has JTAG hardware sitting around, but by no means is it hard. It's the same reason I can get away with charging $100 to clean viruses off of a computer. People either don't have the tools or don't know how to use them. That being said, I don't know a damn thing about using JTAG to restore a corrupt bootloader, nor do I have the right hardware, so I'd pay $50 if I were ever in the situation.
Edit: And yes, $100 for a virus clean is a lot, but people generally change their mind when I explain to them why they got viruses, as well as installing proper antivirus software and then instructing them on how to avoid infection in the future. I rarely get repeat business from the same customer but I get A LOT of referrals ;p They're happy paying that much when the person educates them instead of cleaning, not installing/explaining, then having to bring the computer in again two weeks later for another wallet-gouge, which most other computer 'repair people' gladly do over and over.
Everything in this world is rinse and repeat... The money comes from time spent learning to use the hardware properly, micro soldering skills (which isn't easy, no matter who you are), confidence enough to offer it as a service, not to mention the couple hundred bucks for the jtag software and hardware.
Now, the fact that if you have your device in a bricked state you likely voided the warranty, it's a 600 dollar brick if your samsung tech recognized it... 50 bucks is a steal to not deal with samsung anyway.
Try to be less pompous next time oh savoir of the hundred bone virus... Your poop stinks too, promise.
Sent from my "better than an iPad" tab running Overcome Hermes.
LycaonX said:
It's actually not that much more difficult than popping an OS install CD into a hosed computer and pressing 3 keys to let it run through the installation after flashing a corrupt motherboard BIOS. Yes, it takes familiarity with the software and hardware, but it's by no means a feat that requires a special skillset.
Granted, few people have JTAG stuff handy, so $50 is definitely worth it if you've hosed your device, but don't make it sound like he's sweating and coding the bootloader by hand, strenuously manipulating micro tools to disassemble the tablet and flipping DIP switches to restore the bootloader. You spend 5 minutes taking apart the tablet, you attach the JTAG cable, run the supplied software on your computer, and sit there recording the screen with your video recorder while the progressbar moves from 0 to 100.
Again, it's worth $50 simply because not everyone and their mother has JTAG hardware sitting around, but by no means is it hard. It's the same reason I can get away with charging $100 to clean viruses off of a computer. People either don't have the tools or don't know how to use them. That being said, I don't know a damn thing about using JTAG to restore a corrupt bootloader, nor do I have the right hardware, so I'd pay $50 if I were ever in the situation.
Edit: And yes, $100 for a virus clean is a lot, but people generally change their mind when I explain to them why they got viruses, as well as installing proper antivirus software and then instructing them on how to avoid infection in the future. I rarely get repeat business from the same customer but I get A LOT of referrals ;p They're happy paying that much when the person educates them instead of cleaning, not installing/explaining, then having to bring the computer in again two weeks later for another wallet-gouge, which most other computer 'repair people' gladly do over and over.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got to call you out on this one. Mis-connecting or shorting any wires will lead to a damaged PCB and an un-resurrectable TAB. I'm also a Systems Admin for a living so I understand where you are coming from. You must realize that I solder at levels of .1mm in spacing on the Captivate, Vibrant and Nexus S. Electrical engineers and technicians have first hand talked with me about the difficulty of doing this and is NOT something that anyone can do. You'd think twice when you burn up a phone or two valued at $500 a pop trying to JTAG them. There is more skill involved than you would think. Not to mention the liability when dis-assembling the device. JTAG software is decent but it's not fully automated. There are TCK frequencies, RTCK frequencies different PBL partition sizes, full dcc loader read/writes and the requirement of EXACT voltage from an external power supply that are needed in MANY cases. Plus, there is little to no support when fixing a device. This means that if you can't figure it out, nobody else is going to for you. I'm not trying to brag but yet point out that this isn't like plugging in your phone for an ODIN flash. I've taken hundreds of hours of time and 1000's of dollars to create what I feel is the most trusted JTAG authority online ANYWHERE. I greatly appreciate having the opportunity to help the community and enthusiasts in this community. If this was as easy as you are claiming, you could get JTAG hardware and a manual at Best Buy. I have to say you put it best when you said you don't know anything about JTAG... Ok end of rant I was just a bit bothered by your post.
Ok with that being said, thanks for the personal testimonies and compliments. I will be here whenever anyone needs JTAG assistance in the future or around the forums to help answer Q&A when it doesn't require JTAG. Here is a Nexus S promo to realize how tiny some of these things are
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecp8jKmm48k
i would love to learn more on how to do stuff like this if i had moneyz. the .1mm ext.
not just for android but to make my own ish.
thanks for the awsome videos.
Thanks for the link, hope I won't need it ;-)
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
First than nothing, sorry for my bad english.
My N4 got bricked, the problem seems to be the battery because when plug in to the AC charger the LED blinks red and nothing else happens, other members have the same problem.
There is few post about it
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2050811
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2011328
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2048066
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2077331
So after try everything my nexus 4 seems to be dead, I decide to RMA but I don't know some details, and maybe you can help me
First, what I think I have to do:
I live out of USA, so I shipped my N4 to my cousin, he was who bought the N4, when he get my N4 then he will do the steps that Google tell him.
My doubt is:
1 - My bootloader is unlocked when my N4 start with the issue, perhaps Google can not turn on the device and be aware of it because the phone is fried, so if they can not detect that the bootloader is unlocked my RMA is free? (Assuming you have the bootloader unlocked means forfeiting RMA)
2- If they detect that my bootloader is unlocked, they will ignore this? Google will send me a replacement device? Although i going to be charged again (Assuming that Google is left with the charge of money they make to your account which remain in hold)
3- The replacement device is now yours? Or is just four use while Google check the original device?
4- How long take the whole process ?
So, this is all my questions by the moment, thank you and sorry for bad english, I used a little bit of Google Traductor.
D3m0x said:
First than nothing, sorry for my bad english.
My N4 got bricked, the problem seems to be the battery because when plug in to the AC charger the LED blinks red and nothing else happens, other members have the same problem.
There is few post about it
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2050811
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2011328
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2048066
- http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2077331
So after try everything my nexus 4 seems to be dead, I decide to RMA but I don't know some details, and maybe you can help me
First, what I think I have to do:
I live out of USA, so I shipped my N4 to my cousin, he was who bought the N4, when he get my N4 then he will do the steps that Google tell him.
My doubt is:
1 - My bootloader is unlocked when my N4 start with the issue, perhaps Google can not turn on the device and be aware of it because the phone is fried, so if they can not detect that the bootloader is unlocked my RMA is free? (Assuming you have the bootloader unlocked means forfeiting RMA)
2- If they detect that my bootloader is unlocked, they will ignore this? Google will send me a replacement device? Although i going to be charged again (Assuming that Google is left with the charge of money they make to your account which remain in hold)
3- The replacement device is now yours? Or is just four use while Google check the original device?
4- How long take the whole process ?
So, this is all my questions by the moment, thank you and sorry for bad english, I used a little bit of Google Traductor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.you have to call google for an rma
2.in my case, the send me a new one, including an envelope and the freightpapers for the old one
3. they authorize 349 euro on your credit card, but they just authorize it,they dont take it
4.if you receive the new device, you have to send the old device back to them within 21 days, otherwise they will take the 349 euros from your credit card
5. pray that they cant turn it on and you are good to go and you dont have to pay for it
6. in betwen 14 days you can keep the new device, dont know how they handle it over 14 days sorry
hope i could clearify some things lol
I live in Germany, had similar problems and doing the rma rightnow, too.
The replacement nexus 4 that you will get is yours. Until they checked your first nexus 4, they block the money for your replacement.
If your warranty isn't valid or the defect isn't covered by the warranty they will charge you for the replacement device.
Let's hope they cannot turn our devices on to check for an open bootloader
pa.pn2 said:
1.you have to call google for an rma
2.in my case, the send me a new one, including an envelope and the freightpapers for the old one
3. they authorize 349 euro on your credit card, but they just authorize it,they dont take it
4.if you receive the new device, you have to send the old device back to them within 21 days, otherwise they will take the 349 euros from your credit card
5. pray that they cant turn it on and you are good to go and you dont have to pay for it
6. in betwen 14 days you can keep the new device, dont know how they handle it over 14 days sorry
hope i could clearify some things lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Qin-Root said:
I live in Germany, had similar problems and doing the rma rightnow, too.
The replacement nexus 4 that you will get is yours. Until they checked your first nexus 4, they block the money for your replacement.
If your warranty isn't valid or the defect isn't covered by the warranty they will charge you for the replacement device.
Let's hope they cannot turn our devices on to check for an open bootloader
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you guys! Really helped
Lesson learned: After root, ALWAYS block your bootloader
D3m0x said:
Thank you guys! Really helped
Lesson learned: After root, ALWAYS block your bootloader
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont take a chance ! If you didn't send your device yet...
plug it into PC while holding ( VOL - )! JUST VOLUME DOWN ! no POWER KEY !
and when in fastboot mode, do :
Code:
fastboot oem lock
Dont take any chances ! ... They are super genuis ! I guess they can do anything to check the LOCK status !
miku3191 said:
Dont take a chance ! If you didn't send your device yet...
plug it into PC while holding ( VOL - )! JUST VOLUME DOWN ! no POWER KEY !
and when in fastboot mode, do :
Code:
fastboot oem lock
Dont take any chances ! ... They are super genuis ! I guess they can do anything to check the LOCK status !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well bro, my phone its on the way to USA, but when my cousin get it, I'll tell that and lets see what happends...
I had no issues on 1836. I was on it all late last night. It was until I opened that benchmark app that went haywire.
Mentioned this in the other thread as well, but any idea what bin your CPU is?
Hey guys im in the same boat currently doing RMA. I have no red LED phone wont charge or turn on so hoping that Google cant either and Warranty holds.
No idea what bin I am im afraid. I have a hunch its fast or faster as I couldn't run matr1x v4.0 kernel and other people who also couldnt were fast bin (think it was due to the voltage tables).
RED LED fixed
hey guys, i've read a lot of threads about this red led issue and having the only solution was to RMA it.
just remebered the time when i had a RED LED after replacing my framework.apk that i have found in one the forums, after replacing the framework.apk, my phone cant respond to anything (screen touches and even power and volume button was not working) and after a minute my phone turned off. and i cant get it to turn on so i was panicking a bit knowing that i cant RMA my phone cause i only had my phone from my mother in UK and i'm in philippines so i plug my phone on the wall then the LED flashes RED ......
to make the long story short i tried everything to revive my phone and wugfresh's toolkit saved it, after a couple things the toolkit manages to flash the stock rom on my phone i was relieved.
that was just my experience, hope it help you guys
dannaoj said:
hey guys, i've read a lot of threads about this red led issue and having the only solution was to RMA it.
just remebered the time when i had a RED LED after replacing my framework.apk that i have found in one the forums, after replacing the framework.apk, my phone cant respond to anything (screen touches and even power and volume button was not working) and after a minute my phone turned off. and i cant get it to turn on so i was panicking a bit knowing that i cant RMA my phone cause i only had my phone from my mother in UK and i'm in philippines so i plug my phone on the wall then the LED flashes RED ......
to make the long story short i tried everything to revive my phone and wugfresh's toolkit saved it, after a couple things the toolkit manages to flash the stock rom on my phone i was relieved.
that was just my experience, hope it help you guys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly what did you do in Wugfresh's toolkit to save it?
reaper000 said:
Exactly what did you do in Wugfresh's toolkit to save it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i used the "flash stock +unroot"
shaded the soft-bricked/boot loop
Sent my device in for RMA over a week ago. Bootloader was unlocked and custom rom loaded. Same red light problem everyone else is having. Also ordered my replacement device which is still on back order.Charges have now cleared my credit card so no worries just in case anyone is worried they will not honor the warranty because you have unlocked and rooted the phone .Called google to find out where my replacement device is yesterday and they said that even the rma devices are on back order for 1 to 2 more weeks which really sucks!
So basically everyone here crashed their car ,it was their own fault, car not had an insurance and you expect to get a new one pretending it was manufacturing fault ?
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
You make too many assumptions, friend.
1. Not everyone browsing this topic has crashed their phone. I popped in while searching for Wug and toolkit, for instance.
2. It's their own fault: you know what "everyone here" did? Their phone use, their setup?
2a. It may not be manufacturing issue as much as a design flaw. Microsoft's Xbox "circle of death" comes to mind; this could be LG's version of that.
The Nexus line is known as the dev's phones, and devs push limits; that's inherent to development. Even experienced devs like Faux have had red LEDs.
The inability to yank the battery as a hard reset has always troubled me in this kind of environment. I hope Google's next phone corrects this
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
MattSkeet said:
So basically everyone here crashed their car ,it was their own fault, car not had an insurance and you expect to get a new one pretending it was manufacturing fault ?
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Click to collapse
Mine Nexus got the red led just now, never rooted, everything stock
[Update: after sometime connected to the computer the battery charging icon appeared and it booted]
Update on my RMA process. I noticed today that I have a new pending $299 authorization on my card and I am trying to find out why. The original $299 authorization that was placed on my card when I first started the RMA has now cleared because I had already sent the defective device back for repair and a few days later the pending charge went away. Now I am wondering why in the hell they placed a new $299 charge again even though my replacement device has not even shipped! Google has really dropped the ball on this whole nexus 4 situation!
If you take it apart and actually take the battery out, as a proper hardware reset, will that work? Anyone tried this?
Meleagru said:
If you take it apart and actually take the battery out, as a proper hardware reset, will that work? Anyone tried this?
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Click to collapse
Well, here's a thread that I started that addresses that question directly:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2103451
Here's an update; it seems one brave soul did pull the Nexus 4 battery. Check out this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2111947
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Hello HD2 users. i need some help from your possible experience (this might be a bit long to read, sorry)
I got a disassembled HD2 from a friend, which didn't have lcd/digitizer. I took it to a shop in my country which is an expert with htc phones (called htc solutions ). they said they will test the mainboard. if it works, they would put a digitizer and an lcd.
after a week i called back and they said the mainboard wasn't working so i took it back (still disassembled, no lcd/digitizer).
i got bored while studying for exams, so i tried assembling some stuff and testing it. apparently i connected the bottom buttons, the volume buttons, in-call mic and vibrator. i can tell that because i put a battery on the pins, plugged a usb in and it vibrated!
so i tried again... worked again.
then i hold down volume buttons, connected to usb and it was recognized. i even flashed ruu while holding battery with my hands.
then it rebooted, after some time while still connected to usb, orange led went on. after some time too, green one did (it's my other hd2 battery which was charged completely). device was recognized by pc again. i ran windows mobile device center, it showed hd2, asked to register etc...
i decided to try a custom rom, and flash worked and same thing happened.
now, in order to get activesync/wmdc to connect, the phone must completely boot right?
i asked them on their fb page, they said that it didn't work with them, and the expert said it stucked on htc screen.
and since it booted with me and connected to wmdc, then it booted right?
i couldn't test sound because i must put the back cover right? and i'm not expert, even connected the stuff inside the phone without watching tutorials/asking.
they said they can add the digitizer and lcd on my responsibility, (90$) so should i go for it?
also, does android boot if not all hardware is present? i tried to execute clrcad and haret in both roms (ruu and crossbowHD2 wm6.1), but never got adb to connect. i wanted to test clk and fastboot for android, but didn't have time
Yes Windows would need be booted but perhaps the stuck HTC screen was far enough for WMDC to recognise the device.
If it did indeed reflashed fully things sound promising.
Have you tried installing MyMobiler on your PC as allows you to view HD2 screen image on notebook, needs push file to device but can't remember if any interaction is needed on HD2 but worth a try.
Can you see your device in Windows explorer & view content of phone storage ?
Personally I would be inclined to buy a pre assembled lcd/digi combo (around 30USD)or lcd & digi separately if want save a little more & test it myself & rebuild it after reading some tutorials as will save yourself some dosh ($) if things are not 100% & should be able to resell parts to recoup outlay.
Thanks for your reply.
today before going to exams i downloaded and installed my mobiler and booted it. after connecting usb, (still on wm6,1 due to that ruu has install restriction policies for security, and wants me to confirm installation and launch of exe's afaik) my mobiler started installing on the phone automatically. and it showed the screen!
i saw that there was no sim card (cuz there was not) and pressed cancel in winmo, i got to home screen. so it works right? there's no way that pc could control the hd2 and get to homescreen if the screen is stuck on htc logo.
edit: i forgot, yes, i could browse nand or sdcard if connected from windows explorer. it seems very normal
oh, and i'm not gonna try to flash HSPL it's already flashed cz custom rom worked, and not safe at all since i have to keep holding battery with my hands for it to stay on )
Sounds good so far. Due to fact your HTC specialists don't appear to be too special I would recommend commencing with repair yourself.
Rebuilding the device with a pre built lcd/digi assembly is very easy & almost foolproof if you use this forum & research tutorials & do the job right & with a lot of care.
You will save a serious amount of cash & have the knowledge & feeling of achievement of doing the repair work yourself.
well, i can't find any digitizer or lcd replacemet in my country and can't order them, the reason i went to htc specialists.
but i'm not that sure i will come to them. if android boots fine, i might use ubuntu or make something with it
link below ship to Lebanon if you could get around ordering or have someone do it on your behalf.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330834252960
Mister B said:
link below ship to Lebanon if you could get around ordering or have someone do it on your behalf.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330834252960
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Click to collapse
well, i may know someone who could order from ebay so i might do this after all. i think i'm missing the volume buttons, but the htc solutions store would give it to me at no cost. i love these guys but they're a complete rip-off.
i will see some tutorials on xda and the internet. if i find i'm capable of assembling it, i will do it
Thanks a lot for your help and your support, ( out of thanks ) :good::highfive:
make sure you order the right one, because there are 2 types of connection:
1st plug and play, 2nd with soldering. This is a piece of cake, I repaired mine recently with use of screwdriver and knife. Youtube has good tutorials "htc hd2 disassembly"
yaro666 said:
make sure you order the right one, because there are 2 types of connection:
1st plug and play, 2nd with soldering. This is a piece of cake, I repaired mine recently with use of screwdriver and knife. Youtube has good tutorials "htc hd2 disassembly"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not an issue when replace lcd/digi as a combo as they are already paired & it always best go for the plug/socket connector type. LCD to mainboard ribbon is same on them all.
not an issue actually because i got the button board's cable cut accidently (i feel so ashamed) and 90% i'm gonna leave it for spare parts for the working leo i have
Button board is only 3 to 4USD at the most & could probably be ordered same time as screen assembly. Only really worth doing if need 2 working handsets or want sell it or something otherwise keeping as spares is worthwhile but expect first thing you will need is a working digitizer lol
Ok so I'm a little annoyed here with how shotty the repair center at Motorola is. I sent my girlfriends phone in about a week ago, due to the speaker going bad. We got it about 5 months ago, so it should be well within the warranty repair window so we sent it off for an RMA fix. Well we got it back today and they denied repairs on the device due to "water damage" even though the sticker shows no water damage to the phone, and they already opened the thing up and messed around inside. The main issue now is that the phone will not turn on at all. I've left in on the charger for a few hours, tried plugging it into my PC to see if it can be recognized, and nothing. I can also see that the phone was opened up, because the backing is peeling up The first time I plugged it in, it showed the "installing new device drivers" window, but after it did that for about 5 minutes there was nothing. I also installed the official Motorola drivers and if I plug it in, my PC detects a device but it just says "USB device not recognized" and that's it.
Am I SOL in this situation? I feel like if I were to send it back or contact Moto, they won't do a thing since they claimed it's "water damaged" but the thing is, when I sent it in the phone was working fine. It was able to turn on, charge and function apart from the blown speaker. Any advice? Or should I just never go Moto again...
I've attached the water damage marker as well, caution as the image is huge.
SIM card marker
http://i.imgur.com/3S0ZENJ.jpg
Internal marker
http://i.imgur.com/rHnDhT3.jpg
Quick update. When I plug the phone in now, I can see it in device manager as "Qualcomm HS-USB QDLoader 9008" so it seems they just decided to send me back a bricked phone as an extra "f**k you" for being a customer.
You need to contact them and give them hell regardless.
I would just do another warranty exchange tell them the phone won't turn on after receiving it back from them
bigv5150 said:
I would just do another warranty exchange tell them the phone won't turn on after receiving it back from them
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mjones73 said:
You need to contact them and give them hell regardless.
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Click to collapse
It's been a few days and no updates, it seems that they just stick to their own and listen to that their "service team" says without question. Of course the support line seems to be outsourced, so my questions are literally just the same replies over and over about company policies and procedures.
Never again will I buy a Motorola phone if this is how their support and repair center is.
Try to escalate the problem to the higher level. Try to post on Moto g+ or facebook page as well to get more attention. Customer service, especially outsourced, usually is completely useless. And people over there don't really have knowledge and/or power to help you.