Related
I was wondering does the amount of power equal more distance on the prophet wifi? or just better speeds?
My experience tells me that it just speeds up battery drain ... nothing else
Could be wrong but never really seen any gain in setting it up on high performance!
I dont agree!
I did see a real performance boost when I chose High Performance over Battery.
Before I touched the settings my WIFI connection was being disconnected every few seconds. But after I set that higher, I noticed that the WIFI connection was not being disconnected anymore and internet came more stable/faster.
I did do a test to see the difference and going from the lowest to medium actually double the download speed and going from medium to high just gave a little bit faster but I still dont know if it improves the distance or not
i started to copy a big file from my PC's shares onto my prophet via wlan:
with lowest battery usage:
batterystatus showed 2xx mA power usage and my network adapter was uploading with ~30kb/s
with highest performance level:
batterystatus showed 5xx mA power usage and my network adapter was uploading with ~300kb/s
i could not see any difference for the distance.
for browsing the web over wlan i think the lowest level is more than enough: browsing is limited by the cpu power and a fast data connection can't replace a fast cpu / can't reduce the page-rendering times.
Hi. I recently installed Battery Status and noticed the power drainage feature on this program. I have noticed that when turn on my phone and connect to the network, the power consumption increases to around 350mA and doesn't seem to come down even with no programs (other than the usual background programs) running and CPU usage at 0 - 1%. When I plug my phone to recharge, the consumption will go down to around 75mA and remain at that level (with phone connected to network) when I unplug my phone. When I connect the phone to the computer, the power consumption will increase to 150mA and sometimes drop to around 90mA when I disconnect. What I am wondering is why the power consumption doesn't decrease when the phone is finished connecting to the network (and whether this is the source of my recent drop in battery life). It almost seems that plugging it in for a recharge resets something.
What are other users getting for average power drainage? Is there a way to manipulate the phone to achieve the lower power drainage without plugging it in? Thanks for the input.
I've noticed that my battery life is draining somewhat faster than seems reasonable...
After 7 hours away from my charger I'm at 36% remaining, and frankly haven't used the phone much today. Two 5 minute calls and a bit of playing with email.
The battery status shows that 'Android OS' is using 43% of the battery at the moment. Next after that is the screen at 19%.
Is that normal? Or have I installed something that is draining away at it? What is the best app to identify the malevolent drainer?
Many thanks in advance!
my "Android OS" is always somewhere around 2-3%. You running stock build? mebby reboot the phone and check again?
Stock build.
Have rebooted and killed most of the apps that came along with the reboot. Will watch it over the rest of the day and see if the problem repeats.
Screen usually 70% Android 2-3%.
Mine was horrible then i saw an app G backup.that I had on auto eating up 40%... changed it to manual and eliminated that and an overheating issue... Wierd.
I have been having issues with battery life also. My cell standby was using 65-85% between charges. It would go down to 20-25% battery life after 7-8 hrs with little to no use. I did a factory reset and everything was great for one day, cell standby dropped to about 4%. I added some apps, recharged overnight, and in the morning after 1 hr battery was down to 80%, cell standby back up to 75%. not sure if it's an app i installed or not. At home i have been using a different micro usb charger, not the stock one. I'm wondering if that could be the cause. I did a 2nd factory wipe this morning and now cell standy is back to 4%. I'm going to only use the OEM charger and only add apps 1 at a time to try and narrow down the cause.
do you have the 3g problem?
my guess is ... if your phone keep switching between 3g/edge or umts/hsdpa
you keep using wireless radio and thus consumes much more power
no, I've never had any 3g problems, other than only getting a max download speed of about .8Mbps.
I called HTC about the high cell standby usage and they suggested - turning screen brightness all the way down, turn off GPS, turn off bluetooth, turn off wifi, etc... If I have to have everything turned off so my battery won't die then what's the point of having an otherwise awesome phone. It's been an hour now since unplugging and cell standby is at 20%, battery life at 98%. I guess we'll see...
Battery issues are almost always due to apps (or services) running, especially ones that are constantly using a data connection.
That's why Apple don't allow the iphone to run anything in the background ;-)
If it was fine after reset and then bad after you added some apps then you know one of them is to blame......
My nexus one has been unplugged for 24 hours now and is at 66% (fairly light use in that time to be fair).
it's possible that android synching could cause usage to spike to those levels, but that shouldn't be happening very often.
I leave syncing on all the time and my phone is easily 14 or 15 hours to get to 20% with what sounds like heavier usage than what konsta is reporting.
I read some guy solved most of the battery issues by turning off GPS. I'm now following this practise after a full charge from completely dead to see how it goes. I normally have to charge once per day, I do use the phone quite a lot, not much for phone calls though, twitter, facebook, sms, tech news etc!
I think that my "Android OS" drain must have been a one-time event (hope so, anyway). After my reboot I'm now up to cell standby as my primary usage. I've spent a fair bit of time in the last few hours in patchy signal areas, so seems fair.
Will see how long it lasts tomorrow.
I agree that the GPS seems to be the biggest battery killer. Completely drained my machine in next to no time when I was playing with Copilot live.
I am actually impressed with the battery life on the n1. I can keep GPS on and use it, playing games on the train and answering emails and calls all day long with seesmic constantly running and easily get through the entire day. If I don't charge it overnight I will be about 15-20% remainig in the morning. I have stock android os on an unlocked n1.
Power drain solved....
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
gadjet said:
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you on T-Mobile?
gadjet said:
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you on T-Mobile? Do you have a fairly strong 3g. signal ? if one did have a fairly strong 3g signal would this still be advisable?
rockky said:
Are you on T-Mobile? Do you have a fairly strong 3g. signal ? if one did have a fairly strong 3g signal would this still be advisable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi rockky.
No I am on Orange, I usually only get a full strength 3G at my works and not usually at home, however since getting a Nexus 1 i now get a limited 3G at home..
after uninstalling mobile defense and city caller id my bat went back to normal.
I noticed pretty good battery improvement when I turned off GPS (only turn it on when I need it).
With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
I would like to collect cell standby data from you. Cell standby is much too high, i have 1% per hour even under optimal conditions. Some users have much more and are satisfied when they reach 1% but i think this is too much. SGS1 and SGS2 are below 0,5%.
Can you post
time on battery,
remaing capacity in %,
cell standby in %
and calculate the consumption per hour:
(100 - "remaining capacity in %") * "cell standby in %" / 100 / "time on battery"
Sample:
time on battery = 5,5h
remaing capacity in % = 84
cell standby in % = 40
(100 - 84) * 40 / 100 / 5,5 = 1,16% per hour
//EDIT//
I build a google sheet where we can enter these information and which then calculates the average stanby drain:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ambt0PkdLr7BdEJ1alptQ2M1bFlLbm11aVdtNmtIY0E
Maybe that helps to identify those configurations without drain.
Hi,
I think this is a good idea, but it would be good to post your current ROM, Radio and Kernel plus the country and provider.
All these points could influence the cell standby. I am on 3G an have medium to good reception.
ROM Omega 5.2
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Germany
Provider O2
Standbydrain
time on battery = 4h
remaing capacity in % = 75
cell standby in % = 41
(100 - 75) * 41 / 100 / 4 = 2,56% per hour
Time on battery 6:30
stanby cell= 58%
remainig capacity=67%
ROM Foxhound 0.3
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Luxembourg
Provider Tango
(100 - 67) * 58 / 100 / 6.30 = 3,03% per hour
valerio.tosti said:
Time on battery 6:30
stanby cell= 58%
remainig capacity=67%
ROM Foxhound 0.3
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Luxembourg
Provider Tango
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Click to collapse
I added those values to the spreadsheet.
ok you can add
signal strenght 2-3Bars
Network type 3G/Hspda
wifi On, also when display off
---------- Post added at 04:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:37 PM ----------
how is this possible that sellman makes 35 hours?
The next few days I will switch my Radio, to see if there is any considerable impact.
whaaat 42h???? Guys commeon you are killing me!!!!
valerio.tosti said:
whaaat 42h???? Guys commeon you are killing me!!!!
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I thought the same
How unfair life can be
Cell standby seems to be
1) A modem firmware failure for those who actually have bad cell standby battery life. This seems to be caused by not entering low power mode on non active connections or switching to fast/often between the power modes.
2) The batteryprofiles.xml populates the cell idle entry with 33mA as power drain as opposed to 3mA for the S2 which has the older version of same type of hardware modem. This is absolutely retarded as the actual drain is not really that much and being reported much higher than it is.
I personally am running on 2G which is more than enough for chat, email and notifications and switch to 3G whenever I need to manually or am on Wifi. I am still on my first charge since I have gotten the phone, and I'm at around 40 hours lifetime with 4H screen time with 33% battery left. This is with around 20 reboots while flashing and testing my kernel, and playing with the phone. Over-night (8+ hours) I lose about 3%.
no cell standby issue in CM9 by the way guys
AndreiLux said:
Cell standby seems to be
1) A modem firmware failure for those who actually have bad cell standby battery life. This seems to be caused by not entering low power mode on non active connections or switching to fast/often between the power modes.
2) The batteryprofiles.xml populates the cell idle entry with 33mA as power drain as opposed to 3mA for the S2 which has the older version of same type of hardware modem. This is absolutely retarded as the actual drain is not really that much and being reported much higher than it is.
I personally am running on 2G which is more than enough for chat, email and notifications and switch to 3G whenever I need to manually or am on Wifi. I am still on my first charge since I have gotten the phone, and I'm at around 40 hours lifetime with 4H screen time with 33% battery left. This is with around 20 reboots while flashing and testing my kernel, and playing with the phone. Over-night (8+ hours) I lose about 3%.
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Click to collapse
So what you are saying is that it is just a miscalculation? Then the voltage would still show up correct.
Any idea where to find the battery voltage?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
So what you are saying is that it is just a miscalculation? Then the voltage would still show up correct.
Any idea where to find the battery voltage?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
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Yes that's what I'm saying. The whole battery statistics page in terms of percentages is absolutely useless. Not only are the modem values completely ****ed but the CPU accounting is dead wrong, the values are the same for 1400-900MHz as the Galaxy S2 values for 1200-200, with all the steps below 900MHz being reported as the S2's 200MHz current consumption (55mA). You can absolutely not rely on any of that data for now as it is absolute hogwash.
What does the voltage have anything to do with it? You can't do anything with the voltage value alone, other than maybe estimate battery charge level. Use Battery Monitor Widget if you still want to see statistics.
The Voltage would show if the battery really discharges that fast or if it just is a miscalculation, as you are stating.
My phone is dead after 20hours, no matter how I am using it. The only thing that helps is Airplane mode, but that way a phone is kind off useless.
No wifi, no app and not even the screen are killing my battery. There has to be a culprit and I am guessing, as maby others are, that it's a bug in the radio.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
The Voltage would show if the battery really discharges that fast or if it just is a miscalculation, as you are stating.
My phone is dead after 20hours, no matter how I am using it. The only thing that helps is Airplane mode, but that way a phone is kind off useless.
No wifi, no app and not even the screen are killing my battery. There has to be a culprit and I am guessing, as maby others are, that it's a bug in the radio.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
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Battery discharge of course it correct, I'm just claiming that the battery statistics and break-down is absolute nonsense. I suspect that it is fast-dormancy, try idling it on 2G/EDGE and see if it's the same.
Ah, now I am getting you.
If it was Fast Dormancy that would explain why two identical setups in two different countries, with different providers are having such different runtimes.
In 2g mode fd is disabled, if I read you right? As I am wifi areas most of the time, 3g is not that important to me. Worth the try.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
Ah, now I am getting you.
If it was Fast Dormancy that would explain why two identical setups in two different countries, with different providers are having such different runtimes.
In 2g mode fd is disabled, if I read you right? As I am wifi areas most of the time, 3g is not that important to me. Worth the try.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
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FD doesn't exist for 2G. So yea, basically disabled.
Added my actual data and i'm surprised. No one has an acceptable power consumption for cell standy. I hope Samsung fixes the problem.
The last hours I was running on 2g only and it didn't do any good.
Experienced nearly the same amount of battery drain than before.
I will switch to another Radio, and will keep an eye on that drain.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
At night i have only 2G because in my home where the phone "sleeps" no 3G signal is available. The signal is much more worse, only 1-2 bars, but the battery consumption is even better than with 3G. In 8 hours of Standby only 2-3% battery like it was before with my SGS1. Seems to be only a 3G problem. I checked logcat, but i don't have the fast dormancy problem. I think with 1% per hour with 3G i have a very good performance but in comparison to SGS1 its worse.
Your phone has to run a whole setup, authentication and connection procedure with the antenna each time data network is cut. However when the data network is open (especially on HSPA frequencies) it drains the battery.
So FD is a 3G feature (HSPA-Versions being different extension levels) which basically tells the antenna that your phone will now disconnect the data connection but the antenna should remember him and the state of all TCP connections.
Periodically your phone will power up the data network through a very short and speedy handshake procedure which resumes the old data connection and ask the network whether any new packets have arrived. If so, it will accept and process them and keep the data connection open for new incoming/outgoing packets until it goes back to Fast Dormancy (IDLE) mode.
The network/antenna of course has to store any incoming data packets until the phone polls it so there is a measurable multi-second delay until the data is effectively received by your phone.
The exact polling frequency is defined by your phone's internal database of network operators and is e.g. for all luxembourgish network operators 5 seconds. Therere is no single 'good' value since:
- the network has to store the data. If your phone polls too slowly it might drop the data packets or even close the connection, forcing the phone to run through the full procedure again which causes huge battery drain. (This is also true if the network _SHOULD_ support FD but in reality does not)
- the incoming data packets are delayed by up to X seconds, X being the polling frequency. So you might e.g. only see incoming chat messages several seconds after them having been sent if the phone is in IDLE mode.
- too high polling frequencies put a high strain on the network (to the extend that they might refuse your mobile to reconnect for a certain timespan) and kills your battery fairly quickly.
Furthermore FD only works for incoming data packets, not outgoing ones.
If your phone sends a message, it will directly go to fully-awake 3G network until fast dormancy kicks in again after a certain idle period.
Now, basically FD is a very good solution to 3G's battery drain, however it only works if your phone does not send data and does not constanctly receive data. (Additionally of course, the FD network setup must be correctly configured with sane values... I've seen carrier-provided setups of 1 second Fast-Dormancy interval)
If you have apps which keep data connections open and constantly send/receive small amounts of data (e.g. Skype, ICQ, Msn, Facebook, ...) FD is more or less worthless for your setup and might only cause a huge battery drain.
Furthermore at least my provider (Tango, Luxembourg) sometimes shows bad cases of antenna hopping when waking up from FD which drains the battery even more.
(Antenna hopping is if the antenna tells your mobile phone to connect to an other antenna because it's overloaded or it knows that the other one has significantly more capacity available. However if not properly managed by a supervising instance, this may cause several antennas to play ping-pong with you and keep moving you to other antennas)
2G on the other hand doesn't know what FD is for a very simple reason; it uses the same frequencies for data network and voice. The latter has to be connected at all times anyway, so keeping the network connection open only causes insignificant battery drain. (As long as the device is actively sending/receiving data the battery usage will of course get higher)
So if you want your phone to be connected at all times (Chat, Push notifications, Emails, ...) you'd keep it in 2G. But due to 3G having a better KB/W ratio and being MUCH faster, you should switch when browsing the net.
There is a (paid) app for automated 3G/2G switching when the phone is idle which additionally can enable/disable Wifi when you're in range of a configured network based on it learning your exact location from signal changes of the coarse network-based location.
That app is called Juice Defender Beta (you need the 'Ultimate' donation key to unlock all the features) and so far works flawlessly on my phone.
(Additionally it can automatically dim the display below the minimum-brightness which is cool at night )
If the phone has a very high network drain in 2G too you most likely are either constantly receiving/sending data (e.g. Skype, I recommend using IM+ Pro and configuring it with Push notifications when in the background) or using an Exchange account which seems to have a battery-drain issue in Samsung stock firmwares.