Database Users

Universal Flat Cable Help

Hi all!
Does anybody know where can I buy the flat cable for the Universal (and cheap if possible )
I managed to make it working for now by taking off the isolation part of the flat behind the screen and this way I changed the loose length of the cable going trough the hole to the motherboard. So it doesnt rotate on the same place as before... It was tricky and needed some hot silicone to fix the broken part of the cable inside the cabel guide in order not to move the "broken" part.... But I will need to change the cable SOON.
Help!

I know it's been a while but:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=300124185023&rd=1&rd=1

Is my MDA done for??? Can it be saved?

HEy I have an MDA but about a month ago my usb port broke and is loose inside the phone.
I want to know if this phone can be saved in any way
I have a LOT of contacts and other important info left on the phone and I need them badly.
the battery is dead and I need to know if to call it quits on this phone or not
maybe I could charge the battery through another MDA but i still need all those contacts to be transfered and its way too much to individually get.
please shed some light on what I should do

Maybe get a new battery and connect through bluetooth?

Repairing a HTC Wizard USB Connector
HEy I have an MDA but about a month ago my usb port broke and is loose inside the phone.
I want to know if this phone can be saved in any way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it can be saved!
The same thing happened to me and I fixed it. What you need to do is get
a soldering iron
some extremely thin silver solder (I used .015 dia. Radioshack 64-035e)
some desoldering braid (Radioshack 64-2090)
a continuity tester (the more needle-like the probes, the better!)
a tiny flat head screwdriver (1mm I think).
All this is available at RadioShack or can be found for less online.
Take the phone apart. This is tricky. Read the HTC repair guides available off of this site.
ftp://xda:[email protected]/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
I can do it with a tiny flathead screwdriver instead of the torx that is recommended.
At this point, go on youtube.com and watch some videos on how to do surface mount soldering at home with a normal soldering iron. I found this to be helpful and confidence inspiring.
One thing I did was use the file on my Leatherman tool to sharpen the soldering iron tip to a sharp point. This helped get to the tiny nook that you will be soldering.
Find the loose usb connector in the phone. Its probably in fine condition. The reason why it broke is that HTC did not use enough solder to hold it to the board. Its not likely your fault. In the old days we called this a 'design flaw' and an organization called the 'BBB' would instigate what is called a 'product recall' for what we casually referred to as a 'lemon'.
Now, solder the four corners of the USB connector to the board. It probably won't be hard to put it in its original place. Don't leave a cold solder joint... make sure the dolops of solder are nice and shiny.
Then carefully proceed to solder the pinouts on the connector to the traces on the board. This is easier than it looks because the thin solder will flow right onto the traces under the connector.
If you accidently short two traces with solder, then use the desoldering braid to suck it up. Be extremely careful not to lift hard on the braid and pull up the traces. This did not happen to me, but I was careful.
The thing to know is that the USB connector has 5 pinouts but the USB standard only uses 4 of them. Google Mini USB connector pinouts and study which pins go to which wires: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
When you think you have succeeded at soldering, use the continuity tester on your multimeter to check your work.
Check for short circuits between the traces.
Plug a mini-usb cable into the phone and carefully check continuity from the far end of the USB cable, to the trace on the motherboard of the phone. All four wires on the USB cable should match to the corresponding traces on the board. This is pretty logical when you are actually staring at it. But just in case, what I am saying here is, take one conductor of the continuity tester and place it on one pinout of the usb connector on the phone. Take the other conductor of the continuity tester and put it on the corresponding wire insider your 4 pin USB-A cable connector. If you hear the multimeter beep, you succeeded.
These diagrams show which pinout goes to which wire: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
If everything checks out. Reassemble the phone, and see if it charges with the wall charger. If it does, then see if you can get it to sync with ActiveSync. If the phone doesn't show up in the device registry (or the MacOS X System Profiler), you definitely have not soldered it properly. Be sure the phone is on of course.
PS. Finally, was it all worth it? Well, it was great to get my data back, now its time to go get an iPhone! I mean really, all of this hacking is not worth your time. The iPhone is a far superior cell phone in every aspect. Who wants to screw around with installing half-baked ROM files and buggy M$ platforms? I digress.
PPS. I was able to do all this with MacOS X running VMWare Fusion, Win XP SP2 running Active Sync. So you don't even need a PC!

you tell us to make sure the phone is off way at the end i found this, but is this considered service mont? http://youtube.com/watch?v=KdWCffSdpuE

There 2 things I could add to the instructions above,
1 when I solder surface mount or tight connections I use lots of solder resin (like a acidic primer that cleans the surface as heat is applied, can be cleaned with isopropylene[alcohol]). This really makes the solder flow good to the contacts then use solder wick to suck up any extra solder that may present a problem.
2 You can sign up for mail2web.com and sync your pda with there exchange server, works wonders, I can flash my phones and all of them always have the same full contact list with all the emails, calender etc......
hope this helps

resin and alchohol do the same thing?

Touchscreen: Flexcable damaged due to typical endbutton problem

Hey,
i got the typical problem that my screen wasnt responding after use of endbutton. Sometimes it was working.
I now disassembled the device and saw that the flatcable had a small scratch and i guess the first one or two cables are brocken already and only get contact sometimes by luck.
So does anybody know if there is a way to repair this ?
A new touchscreen isnt to expensive 20-30€ but why throw away a working one if a cable is repairable easily?
Next time i will glue the cable to the display so that there is no flexing when pressing the endbutton. The problem is that there is a little space between that is pushed away each use of the endbutton and someday the problem occours.

Hi,
I had to replace my touch screen to solve the same issue
Is there any thing we can do to prevent the same damage to the new screen ?
Thanks

Well i tried a few times to fix the issue.
But its hard to solder the flex cable without totally burning it.
If i solder it its very likely to break fast again.
Im going to buy a new digitizer too..
To your question:
Yeah i saw that there space between the flex cable and display. The cable is bent a bit towards the buttons. When you push the button the cable is bent back in the free space.
I will glue the flex cable directly to the display and put a layer of protective tape over it. so it wont bent (What causes our error) and wont scratch(if this could happen too).
The problem is the poor quality of the flex cable. Its very hard and therefore breaks easily what causes the wires to break to sooner or later.
If i can ill try to take a few photos but its hard as my digicam cant focus so closely..

[Q] Not charging unless I put upward pressure on USB cable

Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.

Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...

i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)

samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!

hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.

Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?

from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.

Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:

Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck

Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!

Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...

Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?

Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.

As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.

G2 unresponsive screen after replacing charging flex cable

Hello
I can't charge my LG G2 D802, so I ordered a charging flex cablefrom ebay.
After replaced, the phone charges well, but the screen is almost unresponsive.
And it's very interesting, because if I replace to the old one, everything is the same, almost unresponsive screen, not like before disassembly...
Any idea what to do?
Connectors and everything looks fine, but I can't believe touch screen stop working after disassembly.
Please help if You could...
Thank You!

You disassembled the phone? If you didn't put all the components back in place as it comes from factory and taped, then there could be grounding issues. There is a set of transistors next to the lcd connector and above the charging port, make sure it's touching the golden pad on bottom and is taped.
Or else it's a bad cable, bad grounding somehow, moisture issues etc etc.

I think You're right.
The set of transistors may not connecting well.
Can I use processor pasta to glue it back?
Or just some simple tape from above?
-----------------------------------------------------------
So I cleaned it with alcohol and the original glue getting stronger, so I put it back to the right place and put some tape on it.
But still the same.
Do I have to put tape on the cables above the battery?
How could I find where is the bad grounding?

BBOutlaw said:
I think You're right.
The set of transistors may not connecting well.
Can I use processor pasta to glue it back?
Or just some simple tape from above?
-----------------------------------------------------------
So I cleaned it with alcohol and the original glue getting stronger, so I put it back to the right place and put some tape on it.
But still the same.
Do I have to put tape on the cables above the battery?
How could I find where is the bad grounding?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No i don't recommend to put thermal paste therez if it conductive it can short nearby components and can also get messy, it is only for using on chips. I suggest you use double sided tape, but do it strategically so that it leaves a small portion open for the golden pad to make contact. And after that you put nonconductive tape on top of that. Make sure the metal part of the white cable nearby is not touching this area, or you can also put tape between them. I suggest to put tape on the lcd connector as well.
Whenever this problem arises, and if you have trouble to fix it, an easy way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery after a few seconds, should work ok.
You can also purchase a new one like this, look for your device model - https://m.ebay.com/itm/183023879505

crophs said:
No i don't recommend to put thermal paste therez if it conductive it can short nearby components and can also get messy, it is only for using on chips. I suggest you use double sided tape, but do it strategically so that it leaves a small portion open for the golden pad to make contact. And after that you put nonconductive tape on top of that. Make sure the metal part of the white cable nearby is not touching this area, or you can also put tape between them. I suggest to put tape on the lcd connector as well.
Whenever this problem arises, and if you have trouble to fix it, an easy way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery after a few seconds, should work ok.
You can also purchase a new one like this, look for your device model - https://m.ebay.com/itm/183023879505
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like the set of transistors well connected now and I put tapes on it and on the screen connector as well.
And I reconnected the battery too, but nothing happened.
It's the same as before.
And if I replace the charging port flex cable to the old one, it's the same too, but before disassembly it works, but the problem was I cannot charge the phone.
Any other idea what should I do to fix it?
I cannot choose D802 on the link You gave me...
Anyway I think this one and the old one is fine if it's about the touch screen, have to be something another...

BBOutlaw said:
Seems like the set of transistors well connected now and I put tapes on it and on the screen connector as well.
And I reconnected the battery too, but nothing happened.
It's the same as before.
And if I replace the charging port flex cable to the old one, it's the same too, but before disassembly it works, but the problem was I cannot charge the phone.
Any other idea what should I do to fix it?
I cannot choose D802 on the link You gave me...
Anyway I think this one and the old one is fine if it's about the touch screen, have to be something another...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to read carefully what i wrote, hope someone else finds time to help you.

crophs said:
You need to read carefully what i wrote, hope someone else finds time to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I did as You told me... :/
I hope so and Thank You for trying to help me!