Related
It happend while I was taking my cloths off for taking a bath
I dropped it inside our WC and my 2GB SD Card was gone far away inside that damn WC and never found it
I tried to pull out the battery but I couldn't pull that damn battery out for 5 min.
Anfter 5 hours drying with a hair dryer I put the battery and other stuff back and there was NO life After pushing the softreset hole some 10-20 times and putting it to charge there was a little life back some blue lines at the screen.
Now after 5 more hours it starts, but after some resets (some times there is only blue lines) and when it starts it freezez very much...
Should I send it for repairing?
Does the worranty covers it? (I bought it from Internet)
Would reflashing help?
Please advice...
tbh, I would have left it to dry normally in a warm place for 24 hrs before even considering to power it up, as (not 100% certain) I think the hairdryer creates static, which could damage the electronics inside, plus, you can't guarantee that it will have dried it out completely, which means, when you started it up, it could have still been damp in the middle and damaged something.
does it look like it has been water damaged? if not, then your best bet would be to not mention that fact, and just say it has suddenly started being funny, not booting up and freezing alot.
I doubt a reflash will fix it, but it is something for nothing, so worth a shot, however long it is.
*edit* if the company won't replace it, you could try your house insurance...
Thanks alot for the reply wytey,
I think there is something damaged, becouse when I soft reset it after freezing there comes a couple of times a light blue screen with blue and white lines...after soft reseting 3-4 times again it loads normaly again but freezez after 5-10 mins again
I was soo happy with my Jasjar >:'(
Your device has been damaged by water.
This is not covered by warranty.
It might not be covered by any insurrance you might have through your service provider.
You may be able to get it covered under home insurrance.
There isn't a case for a wet PDA. But I've read a recent article of getting back a Linksys router that has been soaked wet by rain water. See the real life experience here
http://www.grynx.com/index.php/projects/salvage-your-device-after-liquid-spill/1/
Probably you can do the same?
I dropped my Wizard in the bath, took out the battery and let it dry for about a day or so. Evrything works just fine.. So you should have dry it for over a day or more to be shure no water is left in it
Very timely.
http://www.lifehacker.com/software/hardware/save-your-electronics-from-spilled-liquid-150085.php
V
Thanks for replies guys,
Usefull article, but I think it's too late now, I couldn't take out the battery for 5 mins, then how to open the device and clean the components/circute
Can they prove it if I don't mention water?
Home insurrance would be a big lie, but who cares they get money from me every month (what to say to them? stolen? bropped in water?)
Thanks again for your times guys
I may be wrong , but I beleive there is an "indicator" in most modern equipment that shows up if there has been any water damage
anyone who knows how to repair phones and look at pcb boards etc. will KNOW right away that it has been water damaged. Impossible to hide (unless you yourself are also a technician).
I know because I own a phone repair shop and have been doing repairs for a lot of years.
One of the IC may be damaged, so when your device starts to get warm (as you said 5-10 mins) it cannot hold the power.
Just think yourself lucky that it's only an IC and not a CPU.
E-mail me on [email protected] if you need more help and advice
hb328_dtdd said:
anyone who knows how to repair phones and look at pcb boards etc. will KNOW right away that it has been water damaged. Impossible to hide (unless you yourself are also a technician).
I know because I own a phone repair shop and have been doing repairs for a lot of years.
One of the IC may be damaged, so when your device starts to get warm (as you said 5-10 mins) it cannot hold the power.
Just think yourself lucky that it's only an IC and not a CPU.
E-mail me on [email protected] if you need more help and advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THanks alot for the info hb328_dtdd
If it's an IC, is it hard to repair it? how much would it cost me?
thanks
I (or whoever you decide to check the device) will have to open the unit up and clean out the residue of water and then do thorough tests first, it may not be an IC problem, even if it is an IC problem it may not actually be broken and will work again after cleaning and sonic waves passed through it.
Depending on which IC is broken and how hard it is to replace it, and also if it has caused any other side effects to the other chips, the repair in theory should not cost too much at all as it does not seem serious (from what I read from your post anyway).
E-mail me with more description of the problem and I will try and give you some tips to get it running, if that fails then you can decide whether to send it away or take it to local engineer to repair.
Hope this helps
the Gadget (Ch 5 UK )show did a piece on stuff getting wet. I htink they all came back to life one way or another but the were left to dry slowly I think for a day or 2. so you could hold out for live in the thing yet?
I hate the fact that Dopod 900 is very slippery, don't you think? I'm looking for a rubber casing like the one for O2 and Ipod.
Dopod 900 enclosure is too slippery, I'm so worry I may drop it too.
I am selling some Pocket PCs and this happened to two of my customers. But the device was an Ipaq 37XX and 38XX.
Both devices I put on a warm place and left there for 4 days. Then after this I powered them up. The Ipaq 37XX had only a bad LCD light, which was flickering sometimes and was not bright. the 38XX worked good again.
Anywasys, you need to check your device and have it cleaned. The biggest problem is the fact that there is so little space between smd mounted chips and the PCB that the water stays in between never drying and makes the metal rust. I had this experience with a cell phone already.
So you can try following:
(1) pay for cleaning and repair
or
(2) try to get it guarantee exchanged, which is also possible as for a pocket pc the technicians normally do not check for water damage. But if you have bad luck, somebody will notice this and you get nothing replaced.
I managed the same thing a while ago with my Xda2, and the symptoms were pretty much the same when it first happened (random lines and 'blotches' across the screen, freezing)..
Without haste, I removed the battery, sd card and mopped up any moisture from inside the battery compartment.. placed it in a warm place in an attempt to evaporate the moisture from the device. I left it for 24 hours before powering the device back up.
It DID work afterwards and I was a bit suprised and relieved at its resilience to liquid.
The important thing is to make sure the board and pins of the chips are not shorted by liquid, if you cannot get to the board, evaporation in a warm place is probably your best bet...Just watch out how you apply heat for the sake of the screen (and possibly the keys on the exec).
I dropped my XDA II into a canal and managed to save it. The problem is the water can't evaporate easily. I took the battery off and put it on a radiator. It took 7 days to finally dry out! It worked ok though.
You probably still have water in yours, so I would recommend putting it on a radiator or somewhere hot and just leaving it. You haven't got anything to lose
After almost 2 days inside the radiator it still has the same freezing/dying problem I thinks something is damaged inside ((( And now I can't find any electronic service in Denmark who can repare it
just because it's dry doesn't mean it fix itself, people often mistake this. Sometimes people get their phones to WORK after it's DRY but little do they know what is really happening inside the phone each time they power it back on and the residue is still there inside the phone lurking in the spaces between the pcb and the chips.
no matter what anyone says, I always tell people the same thing:
YOU MUST GET IT PROFESSIONALLY FIXED
My suggestion and this has never failed me yet.
1. After being dropped in liquid, DO NOT SWITCH ON - This is where most of the real damage will occur. If it is/was switched on remove battery as quickly as possible.
2. Strip down and remove any thing you can do easily, covers, sd card, stylus, sim, battery.
3. Waste a whole aerosol of switch cleaner, squirt it anywhere and everywhere you possibly can, literally fill it up with the stuff so it is pouring out of every hole. Do NOT use WD40, it must be electrical switch cleaner that will leave no residue at all!
4. Allow as much as possible of the switch cleaner to drip out and then allow it to dry, do not force dry with a hair dryer and even a radiator is too harsh. I find airing cupboard where the hot water tank is is the best place.
5. Leave at least 48 hours before putting everything back together and switching on, if it does not work straight away, strip it down again and leave another 24 hours, keep repeating for 7 days.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=27515&criteria=switch cleaner&doy=29m1
Good luck!
I was removing iGuidance v3 and in the middle of it, the phone turned off. Thought I just hit the power button to turn off screen and press power again. Nothing. Thinking it just crashed, I held down power button, nothing; removed battery and replaced it and hit power, nothing. Put it on the charger and it doesnt have any lights showing its charging.
The phone is less than 6 months old, could it be the battery? What should I do? any help here appreciated.
Have you tried a reset press and hold both the side OK button and the power button and then press the reset button by putting the stylus into the hole in the bottom of the device.? This takes sometimes more try's.
Now do a soft reset (again put your stylus in the hole on the bottom of the device, dont press any other buttons).
Mostly this should do the trick!
Ok, replaced battery today and still no power nor charge. So how do I reset? Hold power and ok button down and then replace stylus in hole? Do you mean the ok button on the side or on the front?
You may want to do a HARD reset, not a soft one.
Tried hard and soft resets by putting stylus in pin hole. No luck, think its toast. Also tried the battery in/battery out trick while on charge.
Ive heard of phones crashing or being bricked after a bad rom install or taking off usb too soon, but removing a program and it dying is different. Never had any issues with this phone. Is there a way to test it w/ a multimeter to see if mobo is bad?
What about replacing the little round battery thats on the mainboard? Would that do anything?
Isn't it still covered under warranty? If so, just have them fix or replace it bro.
No warranty. Replaced the screen myself a long time ago.
I just got an email from HTC telling me basically how to preform a hard reset. Well it didnt work. My phone is a paper weight now. Ive never had to do a hard reset before. Used Memaid to do the soft reset all the time. Ill keep trying and fix it eventually by either replacing the mainboard or digging deeper for a fix. Thanks for help everyone
Just got an email from HTC help:
"Dear Customer,
Thank you for contacting HTC America.
For repair inquiry, please contact our repair center at 1-888-354-2375. They will provide you with all the info rmation that is needed for the process of repairing. They will provide you with a RMA number. After that you can send in your phone for further diagnosing. After analyzing, they will determine if it’s in warranty or out of warranty. If it is in warranty, they will repair and return the unit. If it is out of warranty, they will contact you to secure a payment. If you have any questions or concern after you send in your phone, you can call the repair number again to check on the status.
For troubleshooting, please call 1-866-449-8358. If you would like to purchase any accessories, please contact our accessories department at 1-888-716-3594.
I hope we have answered your question in detail. Feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions.
Best regards,
Michelle Pham
HTC America CSR"
I called the number for troubleshooting first and was told that this isnt a fix that anyone can do on their own. It must be sent in for further analysis. What was interesting about the conversation is when I asked if he had ever heard of this problem before. He said he gets that problem all the time with these models. Ive never of this happening. Never found any other posts about it either. I bet its a problem with the phone holding a charge on the mainboard, like a faulty capacitor most likely its gonna have to be j-tagged at the repair center.
Hi
I don't think this is a very common problem as they say. Yes, there are many reports of the failing to charge issue and stuck on the red LED light, but only a tiny number of absolutely dead devices.
Curiously, the service manual refers to an on-board fuse. But later states that when this is blown that those without board level repair authority should "replace the m/board". Clearly then, this is either not a fuse in the ordinary sense of the word or refers to any component that may be "blown" and would require detailed tests to track the problem.
Just for info: the m/board is not a basic simple one in terms of soldering / component removal and replacement. Speaking personally, I would not attempt anything more than very basic work on this board - perhaps just on some of the "cruder" connections here and there. Boards in these types of phone make the more typical boards in other electrical equipment look like ironmongery.
Mike
Ive examined the mainboard and looked it over very carefully for any burnt resistors or capacitors. Nothing out of the ordinary. The components would be a huge project to replace, their soooo small, only the mini USB charger port could actually be done by hand.
What would the fuse look like? Is it soldered to the board? I see a small round battery near the PTT button. Is this something that can be replaced? Probably messes up the BIOS when removed like a computer motherboard.
I shouldnt have been so quick to sell off my Wizard before this happened.
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
marcelnl said:
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But these are multi-layered boards, it will be very hard to trace a connection on it.
Ok, so I lost my motherboard. Probably something killed it during the whole uninstall process. Made peace w/ that. Maybe bury it in the backyard or something. LOL
I bought it to replace my aging 8125, but wonder if I did it for the wrong reason. I thought the new processor would be way faster, but it really wasnt that fast. 8525 has a nicer housing, camera and 3G (which i never used), A2DP that doesnt skip. Never even used the pre-installed programs like Mobi-TV, Telenav, etc.
Anyways, anyone think a 8125 motherboard will fit in a 8525 housing?
Hello
I have managed to come to the conclusion that the original cause for the d-pad failures is NOT the loose connector as described before. this connector is in fact surprisingly sturdy.
the problem lies with the little black IC on the keypad membrane.
i am taking my hermes tomorrow to my friends' phone repair shop and he is going to heat the IC up for me and allow it to reseat.
i shall report back tomorrow.
------------------------
just in case your wondering, i came to this conclusion by purposefully 'un seating' that IC and lo and behold, intermittent white screen and d-pad failures. however if i applied pressure to the IC it allowed it to make contact and it worked again, let go and white again.
many thanks
It will be interesting to hear the results on this BUT -
I'm not certain I agree with your methodology here though. I am not surprised that deliberately un-seating the IC causes a white screen! In all probability removal of any number of components will cause a white screen! AND of course heat gunning it again to re-establish it's connections will make it work again!
Unfortunately this does not prove to me at least that the IC is the problem for most people. If I remove a capacitor from my TV and the picture goes, I cannot conclude that everyones picture problems are related to that capacitor. The D'pad connection though it may appear sturdy has a set of very fine connections and it only takes one to be fractionally bent or oxidised for you to get the whitescreen or indeed a poor connection of any component or connection.
However the IC was reported on in the loooong white screen thread where some folk found that placing padding on the IC surface or squeezing it would correct the white screen and thereby concluded that it was an IC connection fault.
Of course the problem is IMHO that there are several possible causes and any individual person can have one or a combination of things causing the white screen. So far we have as possible causes:
D/Pad connector (must be seated firmly and FLAT but neither over tightened nor too loose. The pins may also get slighly bent or oxidised so cleaning them or fractionaly bending them may work
The D/Pad IC may have poor contacts.
The LCD Flex cable may have cracks (but less likely in my view)
Some have reported capacitor faults (possibly poor connections or degradation with heating or current draw) on both D/Pad and M/board. These faults may be related to the whitescreen only appearing after 10 or so minutes of use and recovery after switching off for a while.
Heating up - in some cases the whitescreen only appears when the phone is warm/hot. This may be caused by expansion of the multi-layered board causing poor contacts / or possibly components not performing correctly due to heat or current draw.
Often some of these whitescreens can be made to disappear by putting pressure on certain components / connections or even in some cases by squeezing the phone casing near the D'pad area. So all in all it is likely to be poor contact somewhere, it's just that it can be in several possible locations - including but not exclusively the D-Pad IC.
Mike
first of all, can i just say what an honour it is to have you comment on one of my threads!
second of all, i am only trying this as a last resort to revive my hermes before i jump ship to the raphael/diamond. or unless i decided to buy a new keypad PCB for it in the hope it will fix it!
i shall report back as soon as ive been down to the shop
many thanks
hi there
i had the white screen initially and although intermittent was useable, then, progressively got worse. countless reseats of the cable, time and time again, including put 'foam' in the places indicated then i did indeed notice in that post about the ic
so, i decided to experiment with the IC. first two layers of paper on top, made some difference in that i had to apply less pressure to get it to work, and then i though, id heat it up slightly using a hairdryer (only thing i had to hand!) and a nozzle made out of a drinks can and just pry it up gently. and indeed the white screen was permanent although the phone otherwise was functioning.
so, i'm taking it down to my mates tomorrow or as soon as i get a chance and he's gna have a go at reseating it using his fancy hot air gun rework thingumajig
i would definetly go for the raphael! for the sole reason that it has a VGA screen! (im an ebook nut!) and it looks beautiful!lol
will keep this post updated
i have to agree with mike on this ,there are many problems that can cause the white screen problem. But i am betting that heat is the major culprit,wether it is the IC you mention ,is another discussion, unless of course your friends attempt at reseating the IC cures the problem ,once and for all. Good luck anyway. I am keen to find out if it was successful or not
Hi there
well, he had a look at it under some fancy microscope and confirmed the IC was not sitting 'true' meaning not 100% level, he also used some little jig he had which he sat the board in and it confirmed it wasnt level
so, he heated it, and allowed it to reseat and we tried it again and it appears that did not solve it. we used another flex cable from his own spv and it still didnt work, my cable ran beautifully in his spv too though.
so, im going to find a replacement keypad pcb now and go ahead and buy it and see if i can get it to work
Hi
ive been hunting for the last hour and i cant seem to locate a d-pad anywhere
if i was to use a cingular 8525 d-pad in my vario II it would still work, just button orientation would be different wouldnt it?
do you know of anywhere where i could get one?
I'm having whit screen prob on my wizard and a complet housing case change. I didn't know a keyboard can cause white screen. I was looking to buy a new flex cable. what's the ic and who do I heat?
I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.
guys - severe problem here
had my 8525 for 2 years or so and have had it insured thank goodness - two trips to the shop have been done already, one for the RED LED problem that i thought ruined my device.
now out of the blue yesterday the phone started shutting off on its own. seemingly randomly, at no specific times, it will just turn off, as if i held the power button down for 5 secs and hit ok.
it will only come back on if i hit the soft reset button or hold the power button and then it reboots. it is making life very frustrating as i'm missing calls and messages often because i have to constantly watch for the green LED to be on to know that the phone is still working
i have three accumulated three batteries over the years so i know thats not the problem, it occurs with all three.
anyone suggest anything before i send it back in? not excited to pay another deductible as i've already doubled the price i paid for the phone in insurance fees!!
My advice would be to do a complete backup, and then hard-reset. Assuming that the issue disappears after the HR, then restore from your backup. Hopefully, you will not restore the issue as well. If you do, then HR again, and DON'T restore from the backup ... install everything fresh.
HTH,
-pvs
There have been a few reports that the battery contacts can become less firm against the battery - causing random switch offs. This was easily solved by having a thin strip of card between the battery and the casing on the side opposite the contacts. Thus pushing the battery a little more firmly against the contacts. (Also make sure the contacts are clean)
Something easy to try at least.
Remember to search - here's one example:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=315591
Mike
thought of that halfway through the day today when i was fidgeting with it and realized there was a little bit of play in the battery compartment. actually put a thin piece of paper on the opposite side of the contacts and the phone has stayed on for an hour so far!!! sure hope that was the fix - would make me pretty happy - keeping my fingers crossed!
i had done a hard reset last night hoping for a fix but to no avail. thanks for the suggestion though.
the weird part is no jarring or dropping took place so i am surprised this issue arose out of the blue??
thanks for the help - and i did search but will look more thoroughly in the future
Hope it works long term - I wonder if thin paper is enough, we'll see.
Sorry about the search comment
Cheers
Mike
the weird part is no jarring or dropping took place so i am surprised this issue arose out of the blue??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, those spring contacts can get a bit tired and maybe a little oxidised and they loose the spring in their step - a bit like me really. I'm stuffing in the cream cakes however not slips of paper but I still randomly switch off from time to time, in fact more and more often!
haha - yea i suppose same goes for me!
however it stopped working =\ worked for about an hour and a half then i bent down to pick something up with phone in pocket and it died. seems like slightest movement would make a difference, but then later on it died at my desk again =\ thought i had found the culprit too
on the gold prongs, on the phone part, there is a tiny bit of evidence of melting on the black plasting holding the prongs. on either side of the black plastic where it meets the green board of the phones interior, there is a silver weld. on one side, it looks like the black plastic melted a bit and the silver weld is barely visible. the plastic is rough and not the same edge as the other side. that's the only noticeable difference
thought i had found a quick fix, but i suppose the last option is the old $50 deductible for the third time =\
Mmmm.. not good. However it seems it is a contact problem and there have been reports of that complete battery contact assembly coming off. Some have been successfully re-soldered, but in one case the contact was broken inside the mult-layered board.
I'm slightly puzzled about the melting - almost as if someone has previously been re-soldering it. (seems a little improbable that a poor contact at that ampage could cause enough heat to melt it - but I could be wrong)
Mike
mine was doing this and nothing fixed it apart from a reflash, its been working fine since i reflashed two days ago
hope this helps