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Hey Guys,
Well, I'm a bit gutted really! I dropped my XDA Mini S on the floor with the charger in and the connector IN the phone has come apart from inside the phone. The little metal bit is practically hanging out. I'm wondering, if i were to take the phone apart could i re-connect the little part? (I have a soldering iron if thats as simple as its going to be?)
Just wondering if anyone had any guides on how to take the phone apart and take a look at whats wrong?
Any help would be so much appreciated!
Many Thanks,
Tom
The service manual is hosted on the ftp site.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
Hope this helps.
I suspect you probably broke the socket off, but if you have a soldering iron, you might as well try to get a new mini USB connector to work with.
You might try Pocket PC Techs:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~UTStarcom_XV6700-554~area~repairs~item~REP-USBCON01~name~UTStarcom+XV6700+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
I rang them up about an issue I had (screen on the fritz) and they seemed pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
Alternatively there's a company I found today in the UK. I can't vouch if they're good or not.
http://www.xdarepairs.co.uk/home.asp
Good luck.
Well I also have an issue with my wizzard... the mini jack connector (of the handsfree) is a bit loose.
What I am saying is that it does have a good connection with the rest of the circuit and sometimes the sound of the speaker goes off, then I have to insert the habdsfree and tickle it a little bit until it has a good contact.
? have some basic soldering experience,do you think I should give it a try?
Given my device has been apart too many times for me to admit to I thought I'd crack it open to take a pic for you guys. Not sure if this pic will help for those wanting to do some soldering:
Very large pic: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/452691530_f47801708f_o.jpg
Excuse the dust.
Ah! That picture at the bottom is exactly what I needed. The metal but at the bottom (the big sqaure) has totally sheared off....bloody thing. Thanks so much for the info on the repair guides. I may give those repair guys a call if i can't get it to work myself.
Thanks alot you guys
As for you WizeMan, it all depends on if you wish to void your warrenty or not. At the end of the day, I installed WM6 on my device so O2 would give me the finger if i tryed to claim. If I'm honest, I'm getting an upgrade next month so I'm not to bothered if I balls it up! Would be nice if I got it working though....
Lemmie know how you get on
unlock k-jam
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
lironasseo said:
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A little bit of a thread hijack but that means it is SIM unlocked.
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
WizeMan said:
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
AsGF2MX said:
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allright here is the deal.
1. I found out the break in the soldier joints when i opened it. I was really suspicious about it because when i inserted my headphone jack into the connector, i had problem with the contact; the connector was loose and it muted my phones speaker. When i disassembled the phone using the service manual i saw with my eyes that the the joins where f-ed up.
2. I dont really need the signal hack i just wanted to experiment, i have 2.25.11 cingular radio rom and its great.
Btw i suppose you should better use the sponge, because the rubber may wear off but not the sponge...
Thanks for the tip on the sponge. I am going to grab a used but allegedly "like new" body from eBay and also get one of those covers as well.
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
RoastGecko said:
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming the cable connectors are good and clean, it is now generally accepted that white screen issues are caused by faulty chip connections on the d-pad daughter board. If you can replace that at a reasonable cost, it might be worth it.
Your new screen may have been white because either:
1
The d-pad board is indeed faulty
OR 2
The new screen although made for the Hermes is not an exact match. You MUST replace like with like. There were at least 3 different and NON-compatible screens made for the Hermes (by different manufacturers - Toppoly, Samsung etc). The only easy way to know if the new screen is the correct one is to compare the code numbers printed on the rear of the screens.
see here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=485961
Mike
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
RoastGecko said:
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be that you can match screen to seriel number, but so far as I know, nobody has done that detailed matchiing task. So unfortunately at the moment, the only way to tell is to dismantle and see the number.
A thought crossed my mind about the d-pad board. Have you read the long thread about fixing the whitescreen problem. One reasonably successful solution is to place a little padding on a d-pad chip to press it against it's board. (simply put the issue arises from fractured chip solder joints - caused by finger presses on the d-pad). I don't suggest this as a permanent fix, but if such padding caused the whitescreen to disappear, then at least you could be sure it is a d-pad problem.
Mike
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
RoastGecko said:
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing if you have the solder reflowed (obvious to some but not all!!) remember to peel off the sticky plastic layer on the opposite side or you'll end up with a sticky mess
Mike
Hi XDA peeps.
I would like to share my notes and pictures of my recent repair i performed on my touch HD. If you end up suffering from the Newton_Ring problem or cracked lcd, and decide to purchase a factory assembled LCD + Digitizer, you can use the Official Service manual and this thread, to perform the repair.
The Battery and the Battery cover have been removed.
Lower mainboard cover and inner housing have been removed
the Digitizer & LCD (preassembled) replacement Part, beside the damaged Blackstone.
Removal of the GPS Coaxial cabling.
I'll skip past the wifi coax removal, but will like to note that you will find a spare coax socket on the mainboard next to the wifi one, so dont get those mixed up when reassembling it!!
both Coax cables removed. (bad quality picture)
Removal of the Ribbons Mylar
this is the removal of the Ribbon plug.
Removal of the Volume buttons and its petite PCB. Take your time, dont break the ribbons or damage the pcb trying to remove this.
Removal of the mainboard phillips screw.
Power PCB slot removal, this ones tricky.
Unplugging of the 5 megapixel main camera, a nice and easy step.
Note: Please be aware that the whole Top PCB is very fragile and does actually bend, hence the term Flex PCB, be gentle with this component.
You wont see this part of the repair listed in the official manual, infact when I had a google around, there was little to no information on howto perform this anywhere.
Let me make one thing certain, if you've just spent like an hour on the above, while following the Official service manual, squinting at the poor quality photos (or my poor quality photos ) and you're feeling a little impatient, take a decent break before attempting the above!
Because, for the above procedure, you need to tear off the 3 layers of Digitizer and LCD from the front of the phone, if you don't take your time with how you do it, you'll dent your frame (a lot).
you won't find this in the service manual, if you worked out its significantly easier do a factory pre-assembled Digi+LCD replacement, and if you don't purchase the housing along with LCD and Digitizer, then you'll need to take the front Speaker piece grill, and transplant it to the new part.
Note: that you don't need to add any extra glue to perform any of this.
Next you simply gently fold a ribbon so you can place the new part into the old frame, and you'll end up with something like this:
I also did a lot of very minor aesthetic damage to the inner area of the frame, between the frame and the touch screen.
Take your time to prevent this, also if you don't care for the old part at all and aren't replacing a LCD or Digitizer standalone, you can pretty much gain access to the layers from one corner then tear the layers away from the glue with your hands.
Next proceed to rebuild the phone following the above in reverse or keep following the service manual (or both, is probably the best way IMO)
Note: Don't forget to place the camera back into the reassembly as you're re adding the coax wires. The service manual won't instruct you to do this.
Install back your flexible and mainboard pcb. as above.
The above is with all the boards, cables and camera installed back into place.
Verify the replacement part is good before fastening in the shell casings.
Lastly the two shells are fastened back on and the battery is put back into place.
Note: When installing the main shell, be very considerate of the camera, while at the same time, ensuring that none of the coaxial or the vibrator cable falls out of their desired places.
OK, if you have the HTC Service manual PDF, and need to repair your Blackstone (and want to DIY), it can be done albeit some instructions are clearly omitted from the official service manual.
One final note, When researching on what part to use to perform the repair of my Blackstone mobile, I read a great many people have attempted to repair their Blackstones and failed miserably, so even if you're savvy with repairing small electronics, the general suggestion is to get a pre-made digitizer & LCD, it is without a doubt well worth the price difference of a Digitizer or LCD standalone.
Thank you for taking the time to check this out, I hope someone may find it useful and save them from a bit of misery.
you are fantastic! i will try to replace the screen in next days...your guide is the best!
very thanks
excume friends, but i'm from venezuela...... i buy a HTC TOUCH HD in miami, the february 2009, ,i phone present this problem, the LCD work fine, but the touch no responding, anybody know where can buy it...... i don´t know how call the replace..... digitalizer, LCD.... how???
Thanks and excuse me by me bad english........ i know, soooo bad.....
Believe me it's almost imposible to replace just digitizer.
I have similar problem few weeks ago, and I buy pre-made LCD+Digitizer and replace it without any problem. I bought my from ebay. UK reseler. 65 euro. I heard that you can find it for lower price but I was searching on ebay.de so maybe on US ebay you can find for less money.
Don't bother to replace just digitizer, just to go 40$ less. Sometimes is batter to give 40$ more but to do job without any problems. (PS It's very, very hard to detach factory attached LCD from frame without braking it!)
Good luck!
Thank you so much, look for us on ebay or on amazon.com to see them .... any questions do not hesitate to do that around here ...... thanks again
Greetings, I got this on ebay usa,
h**p://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-Touch-HD-T8282-Digitizer-Screen-Repair-Part-TL-/290471976452?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item43a17a9e04
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
... What do you think? Does this serve me?
my baclstone started acting funny with screen alignment getting messed up and than it completely stopped responding...
even the touch sensitive hardware buttons donot work no more...i have hard reset many times did task 29. i have changed different roms and went back to stock rom but screen doesnt respond at all... not even the backlight turn on to full brightness when screen is tapped?
anyone have any idea whats broken lcd or digitizer or both... or maybe something else.... and there is no official htc repair shop so i probably gotta fix it on my own
Got Touch HD from someone I know.
He has scratches on the fone screen, so he decided to DIY by replacing the screen, he did not manage to screw everything together so he gave it to me...
I have tried to follow instructions both here and another thread which points me to videos that I can watch...
The problem is that I have black screen, I can hear the sound when turned on. Just no life on screen.
The screen was super glued on so there was no reponsibility of removing and check if eveything OK.
Could it be that the screen defect?
Have google but found no info on how to attach screen to the fone !!!
There was just one ribbon cable, I believe from the screen to the main borad and it is attached to the main board....
OK
Have had some free time over the weekend, disassembled the phone and found that 1 of the fles connectors was loose. Reconnected and all was perfect...
Now I have a fully working phone
Thanks for the guide....
Don't try to replace only the digitizer...i suggest to disassembly the phone first to buy the digitizer.. to see how much is hard to detach to lcd without broke lcd! if you can detach you can buy only digitizer!
i bought the digitizer but i broked my lcd to try to change...with Lcd+touchscreen's block I ve changed in 10 minutes and it is perfect!
Glad to see this has helped others.
My main intention was to cover the steps missed by the not so comprehensive service manual, if it was more comprehensive i probably wouldn't have started this thread to show how I repaired mine. was quite a few too many important steps missing really. (re-adding the camera, etcetera)
Hi all,
I just replaced the lcd screen of my blackstone and got a new touch screen, I put all together but the touch screen seems to be dead. Is there anything I should check? you always talk of touch panel and digitizer like two different layer, does this mean that I should have 3 different pieces (LCD - digitizer?!? - plastic touch panel)? Because I only have two, the LCD and the "glass" with an outgoing flat cable. In the case I am not missing anything, should the touch panel work even if not in contact with the screen ?
If you got one pre-assembled (which we call LCD + digitizer), it would actually just be one whole piece.
If you have two pieces, then you have a LCD screen (the glass one AFAIK) and a plastic layer (the digitizer)
My replacement part came in as one, and in the OP I disassemble, and remove it and place the new on in the old ones spot.
Sounds to me like youve gotten the parts not pre-assembled by the manufacturer, unfortunately its common for non- pre assembled ones to not make contact to eachother properly when you assemble it, some people reported being able to do it, and others from what i've read found either partial or no touch capability, but it would likely be the digitizer contacts are not touching the LCD contacts (kind of a ribbon on the plastic piece)
It maybe worth just getting a pre-assembled replacement. if youve already used the current one and cannot fix it.
No it's not preassembled but you probably solved my problem. you basically say the touch panel and the LCD MUST be in touch in a specific point to close some contact (maybe the lower LCD ribbon must touch the lower part of the touch panel?)!! If you confirm that than probably that is my fault. I've seen some videos on youtube where the touch panel works even if it's away from the LCD but it was not a blackstone and probably not a resistive touch panel.
Please confirm I got it right, you probably saved my blackstone.
as far as i know, the digitizer will have some kind of ribbon, on the LCD theres contacts or a socket for that ribbon, you can see (poorly) in the pictures I took, where I show the LCD and digitizer and a layer (digitizer and face place layers) of torn apart.
I looked around my room for my old damaged screen but unfortunately I can't find it I think I may have disposed of it.
lucky, ebay type sites do have some pictures of the digitizer and its ribbon as you can see in this picture - link (I googled this and found it here
that ribbon would likely attach to the lcd panel, I'm quite sure if they aren't making proper contact the touch won't work.
But, having said that, before I made this thread, while reading about others who did a repair without a pre-assembled part, they mentioned that the digitizer part contained many tiny bubble like resistive cells in the digitizer layers, its imperative you don't damage the any of these touch cell things, because if they somehow get damaged, even if you get the digitizer ribbon to make proper contact with the LCD board/slot/contact (which ever its supposed to plug into), if those tiny cell break in the digitizer the touch wont work (could be partial, or could be overall interoperability) and if that happened, it would be a circumstance where you'd need to source another digitizer.
this is more or less an elaboration on my prior post I think.
What I can say for sure is before I fixed mine, after some searching around on these forums and on others, I found that most of those who did not get the digitizer, face plate and lcd factory pre-assembled did not fix their handset (only a minority did), they either ran into a problem with the digitizer making contact with the lcd panel, or they somehow damaged the digitizer resistive cells.
Also, since I did do mine with a pre-assembled part, I cannot say absolutely that the resistive cells will be between the faceplate layer and the second layer of the digitizer replacement part (like you see in my pictures, I ended up with 3 layers) it could be that the resistive cells are exposed on the back of the last layer and need to sit against the lcd, once again though, I'm not sure about it because I did opt for the more expensive easier choice to fix mine up.
Hope you get it all working smog
No way, tried to push lcd and digitizer together without any result. I don't believe there is something that can be broken on the back of digitizer (Resistive cells???) but I hope you are right, I am waiting for a housing I bought from HK it's complete with a new digitizer ... we'll see
Thanks a lot
Hello, great guide but I am still having a problem and I wonder if it's with what I bought; Off ebay I got the plastic and the glass attached to each other as I assumed thats all I needed because my lcd works fine. So I connected it all up and it only slightly works, where you touch the screen is actually showing up as quite a bit below (depends where - top left corner works fine but if you click the center of the screen the phone thinks you're clicking at the bottom).. I have tried calibration with no luck.. Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Afraid that theres not a lot you can do, if you havent fully reassembled it yet you could try reapplying the digitizer layer but I think that even trying that could make it worse then it is.
Like i said a few times, I wouldn't try replacing the digitizer on its own, I read up on it before repairing mine and concluded it was too much risk or trouble and just got an all in one lcd + digitizer which I used in the guide.
anyway these phones are quite old now, its hard to justify spending on an LCD and digitizer to fix one up.
you need to decide if thats worth it to you or not.
Infact, my blackstone has Newton rings again on the replacement screen, im not certain what squashed against it hard enough to cause them but it happened recently, the digitizer on mine is still working even with the newton ring damage so Im not planning on replacing the screen again.
Okay thank you very much for your help,
Are they still good phones though? I have a nokia 5800 from around the same time and i'm bored of it now but can't afford a new one so i bought this one really cheap as broken and was just going to fix it.. Or is it not really that much better?
Thanks again for your answer
they're considerably faster then nokias usually, i had the 6600, 6260, 9300i and they were all considerably slower ARM processors.
but It will all come down to what OS you run on it, if you do put a WinMo 6.5 rom on it it will be slow to the degree where its unusable. but if you use a 6.1 rom on it then it will never suffer from slow downs (unless the rom is hybrid 6.1 with 6.5 stuff like the one i use).
It also can do heaps of stuff the nokia can't, assuming your nokia is a series 60 or similar.
the Os can do tethering and heaps of other neat things, winmo also has got a fair range of apps, tho dated now, the variety is nice and gives you functionality, you could obtain a lot of this on a nokia symbian phone but winmo (based on wince) is just even better then symbian.
I think it all comes down to how much it will cost you to fix, I have a better phone so i cant justify spending over 50 dollars on fixing a slower older one, but to someone who doesnt have a better phone it may be quite viable to spend that to benefit the improvement over their current worse phone.
ideally, I would say just skip over it, its not truely that fast, you need at least a gigahertz phone to be fast. a HD2 or something, if you can get one like that quite cheap and in good condition, it would be worth more then spending a bit on the blackstone (touch HD).
just my opinion though
I would repair my blackstone again because i get use out of it each time its healthy even though I have something better its still handy to have, i love the audio output on it over my htc desire, but i wouldn't be spending the amount i spent on another repair screen like it did back when it was the best potential phone i could have had at the time.
I've searched far and wide to find a video or tutorial for my problem, but didn't find much.
My problem; my middle button (Windows key) has stopped working - it does work at times but you gotta hit her in the right spot. It does feel like there is some physical damage to the underlying components.
My question is, how would I go about solving this problem? My HTC is out of warranty as far as I know and I've found one person selling replacement keypads in the US (I live in the UK), but is the keypad the correct component to replace or should I be looking to replace whatever is underneath?
Thanks, Az.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
I would rather pay money to HTC and make them repair it than buying it my self and doing myself anywayz,. it looks like its a physical problem, the button must be replaced.
If you want to, you can change the button, it's most likely it would be it the one's broken.
I deduce that you might not be too "experienced" with electronics as you were looking for a video on how to change this part or even how to open you PDA (even if I could totally wrong as there are many persons who like to have all the available info before proceeding).
Anyway, even if I haven't opened my HD2 (yet), I don't think it would be a problem, just be sure to be very careful when you open it, prepare yourself with all the necessary tools (little screwdrivers, I think you'll need a torxs T5 screwdriver, platic pliers, etc.), clean and illuminate your working area and proceed slowly without forcing anything.
To work with most of today electronics you'll need a very fine pointed soldering iron (or heavy skills in soldering, but it's better to have both) or two would be better, a magnifying lens lamp, pb free solder (even if you can use sn-pb solder with pb free solder); but all this stuff will be necessary only if you want to change the push button itself. I just saw how to take the HD2 appart and it seems like an "average" PDA disassembling, the only detail regards the final chassis disassembling, they ask to use a oven to soften three adhesive stripes, this could also be done with a good hot air rework station.
At the end, you'll have to decide if you want to change the push button or to change the whole front buttons board.
I hope this helps.
good luck
I have taken apart some many Tmous HD's, thank could do it with my eyes closed. But it is tricky. I think I'll make a video, and then post it.
I deduce that you might not be too "experienced" with electronics
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You pretty much hit the nail on the head - well, I am experienced, just not any good, being into building and maintenance by trade, I'm more used to smashing and brute forcing rather than using careful precision lol.
I actually forgot about this post - what would you guys say about the volume +/- buttons? They're sticky, would I need to replace those too? And what sort of estimated parts price would I be looking at for both the buttons and a screen? I want to make sure I'm not overpaying. The screen itself isn't smashed, but the the top layer. I know it sounds like I've abused my HD2 in a bad way, but it did this to itself on a night out - I don't know how lol.
I've seen the screen part going for around £20. I have no clue on the bottom buttons or the volume keys. Would I be better off getting a dead HD2 for parts? And are there different part versions as such or are they universal?
Before Reading,
Don't forget to --> click thanks button if you found my post useful, you won't be killed if you click that button LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inspired from members' aging x1 and SESC full of crap... I'm gladly introduce you this full guide that isn't supposed to be exposed. But IMHO, it is supposed to be known by X1 owner.
I think every X1 headset is out of warranty now. While Sony Ericsson Service Centre is always full of crap, bringing broken X1 is absolutely not good idea.
They will asking "faithful" price sometimes the price is higher than the phone itself. Shame on Sony Ericsson.
So please read this guide before you bring your phone to SESC or any Service Centre.
NOTICE: However I'm not responsible to anything. SO take on your own risk!
1. What is in your X1?
Download these pdfs to read the components in your X1
a. Component in your motherboard (Advance user)
b. Component in your handset (Moderate user)
2. How to (dis)assembly your X1?
Download there pdfs to (dis)assembly your X1 in proffesional way
a. Videos in PDF (high bandwidth ISP or no FUP ISP)
b. Pictures in PDF (low bandwidth ISP or limited quota ISP)
3. How to diagnose and repair your broken X1?
Download there pdfs to repair on yourself
a. Problem and solution related to mainboard (Advance user), (!) read "Component in your motherboard
b. Problem and solution related to phone component (Moderate use)
Additional Fixing COMMON ISSUE GUIDE
(thanks to Hkt, triondave, mymailx and russell.eclair (aka rx.eclair)
Taken from local forums and some from XDA-Developers, it's weird some of these methods are never been shared to here...
1. Broken Flex Cable
Diagnose:
a. When slide out, the digitizer (touchscreen panel) isn't working (screen might be working).
b. When slide out, the screen goes blank
c. The mic and front camera buzzing
Repair:
a. FIRST Aid, (It's temporary and somehow fail if you are not skilled, in unkown way)
First method "Tape Patching",
- You can also apply this method preventing this problem while you like using the XPERIA X1 keyboard.
- As easy as ABC, just put insulator tape on the scratch side of flex cable -see blue rectangle with red 'X' inside.
- You may put on another side but it will give a hard slide-out.
Second method "Arc Manipulator", (it's working)
- Try this when you are failing from the first method.
- You can make a very thin plastic with a proper size -see black rectangle with red 'X' inside- and the thick of the plastic should not be thicker than half height of left compartment -see gray rectangle. (I use broken Lego, about 2-3 mm thick and 1x2 cm large)
- Glued it as close as possible to the edge of the 'arc' flex cable -see yellow line.
Explanation: So even the flex cable being retracted while the slider out, the position of 'arc' flex cable is manipulated as closed slider flex cable position. You've got to be sure that the thick of the plastic will not make the flex cable out of the housing so for assurance, try to move the slide locker upside down several times -see gree rectangle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
b. Replace with new flex cable
- search on eBay is the cheapest price. In my country, the price is usually half than local shop but need to wait several weeks.
- After buy the replacement, see the guide to assembling your phone above
How long will it last?
- It's various based on how often you slide it out
Prevention:
- refer to point a.1 (isolate the flex cable) might be useful
- slide it out smoothly (because every time you slide it out roughly, the flex cable being tracked)
- Never / once upon time to slide your X1 out.
2. Unreponsive keyboard
It's very easy to repair it...
[Tutorial] Cleaning X1 Keyboard (Disassemble)
NEVER! follow the threa that is started by hatlo0or, because it is just horrible for beginner and offensive word for some person.
3. Scratching Housing
There's no other way to make it as new, replacing the houding is quite cheap right now. I found that the price varies from 12 to 70 USD.
Which one to buy?
I bought 3 housing for me myself and 1 for my friend.
* I compare those, priced arround 12 USD is better built than priced arround 20 USD.
** the 12 USD is fitted well and the chrome is shinner than 20 USD, the 20 USD Priced is not fitted and quite tricky to assembling it.
*** However the arround 70 USD is the best because it's complete. The housing with 12 and 20 USD have no keyboard but the 70 USD is quite good with keyboard.
Now I am using the keyboard and backplate from the 70 USD priced housing. but for front case and rear case, I used from 12 USD priced housing. As soon as, bought a leather case to prevent it from scratching...
Update!4. Unresponsive Volume Key
Okay, it has been long time that I've been vacuum. After 2-3 years, my X1 has been so terribly damaged. Now, I'm gonna share something else to you all. I dunno know how much people will be helped by this thread since only 20 persons who give comment while 8000 eyes (2x 4000 ppl) read this. But who care? so far there's noone complain.
To be honest, I finally buy another brand new XPERIA X1 from local shop (old stock) with great price because my X1 is what I called "un-help-able"LOL. The problem is unresponsive volume key.
First time, I think it is caused by faulty button but I don't find it wrong after checking up. And after several days' analysis, I found that it is caused by something on motherboard (but I could not determine which one, someone know?). However, the solution is just put something (paper, clip with thickness less than half milimeter) over the USB port (there's a slight gap between the housing and USB port) so it will push down the USB Connector (and Mother board), for unknown reason, your volume key back to normal.
I'm surprised that there are still ones who use X1 since the only person I know using this X1 in my city is me... lol
I just love X1 unfortunately death Sony Ericsson just like White Star Line who make Titanic for becoming so weak.
Thanks for sharing and the credit ;-)
looking good, hope it will be kept up to date
stuck it for the time being
BR, DK
Great GUIDE,THX
Your information is very useful
Your information is very useful and I learnt much from it! Keep working...
Very usefull thread it helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
OnThomaz said:
It helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
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Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
J0hnTR said:
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
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It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
You need only:
1. Micro- scissors (No idea how to say it in English) but razor blade is okay (I always used my husband's)
Just very careful to slide between the display and the digitizer or it might break your LCD as well.
Suggest you to search on youtube maybe there's no tutorial about how to replace X1 digitizer but there's a lot tutorial how to separate 'em on other models.
Just watch and learn from those videos. After you have courage, just try it. But I won't take any responsible for you acts. Because everyone's skill is different, I have no idea on yours. One advice from me is be patient and don't execute any acts until you are really sure on what you do.
VSJ said:
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. I knew it will be hard to disassemble Xperia X1..
And then I looked into the Disassembling Guide - it will be impossible to disassemble it at home!)
Thanks, will search for some repair center!
Wow,, thanks! Great one
Thx for the great GUIDE)
+1
Broken link
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
the_analyst said:
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I don't know about that, I just copy paste the link from a local forum.
You may contact rx.eclair (kaskus) or russell.eclair (xda-developers) for questions about the link and so on
Fix Link
http://www.4shared.com/office/JVcaZCN8/component_of_the_motherboard.html
Here is the Component of The Motherboard of X1.
thanks for posting this.
It sucks having to dissasemble the phone to clean the keyboard every now and then. I wonder, is there anyway to prevent it from ever happening again?
Thanks for the extremely useful guide mate!
thanks as the aging X1 will surely need this.
Nice guide, but i still with the volume/keyboard problems...
Like some others, i have traced the proble to the motherboard, but i can't find the real cause... I think, it might be some cold solder or a faulty ground connection (this may explain why if you push the usb connector, the keys start to work again)
Great Job Bro
Great Job Bro!! Solved Problem with my X!
Thanks (;
Hi guys.
I have an old SE X1 lying around. The keyboard was not working properly, so I sent it in under warranty, but they sent it back saying I had physically damaged the screen, so my warranty was void.
When I got it back it wasn't even switching on, so I opened it up and found 2 small components broken off the mainboard. I don't know what they were but I've taken a photo of their locations, so if someone opens their phone, could they tell me what they were? It would also be brilliant if you could measure their values. I want to try soldering some replacements on...
I can't post the link to the image as an image, so I'll link it here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/98849791/DSC_1531.jpg
I'd love to get this thing working again, I miss it.
Thanks, Jodie.