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I managed to knock my 8125 off the counter while charging, landing on the charging connector and snapping the USB connector off the motherboard. Does anybody know where I can find instructions on how to disassemble the 8125 so I can attempt to re-solder it to the board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a link to the Wizard Service Manual
http://www.box.net/public/4enzlr1l8c
This is what Ive been looking for....Thanks for the link.
This site is EXCELLENT.
Thank you very much for the link. I was able to take it apart with no problems and then solder the Mini-USB connector back in place on the board, with no problems. The phone works great again, charging and tethering, and transferring data. Thanks again.
hey thanks a lot for the link...and also for Reighvin for proving that its possible cuz the same EXACT thing happend to my brother....
It takes a steady hand, and I suggest a magnifying glass on a stand to help see the 5 contract points. They are tiny and very close together.
im having trouble taking out the back housing!!! the 8125 is a little different to the MDA onthe diagram...who did u do it?
About removing the batter cover, and the top cover around the the camera...
The battery cover is simple. But the camera cover requires to gently pry it up around the edges. Be especially careful around the top of the phone, as there are a couple plastic clips there.
Once the covers are off, there are 4 screws to be removed. One is under a VOID label. Once they are removed, the board just comes right out of the phone.
oo yeah igot that part, i was having trouble with the full housing in the back because i had to open the keyboard adn then take it out...i just hope soldering it back on work and does the job...becuase the usb part, 1 of the 5 small pins is chopped off...
Reighvin said:
I managed to knock my 8125 off the counter while charging, landing on the charging connector and snapping the USB connector off the motherboard. Does anybody know where I can find instructions on how to disassemble the 8125 so I can attempt to re-solder it to the board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! it's nice to know that I'm not alone in this world!... any way I had my wizard strapped arround my nec and Plugged in the car charger at the same time!!! I forgot to unplug it from the car kit before getting off and I pulled the all lot out off car! then I shake it realized that inside the wizard I had a little easter egg surprise!!! So i did what this guy did (but before reading this) and after fews hours I managed to solder the bit back! I got very good eyes!!! and that's comes very handy!!!
The problems is that it lasted fews weeks and now Is giveng me some problems again! so I provably have to take it appart and do it again... But i would prefer to stick a new USB socket in it... Does anyone knows where I can buy one of this mini USB socket?
Best regards
please check the following link
http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-284182.html
--tux
8125
just wondering because i have a cingular 8125 myself, is the keyboard a seperate piece from the motherboard, i need to know this because i have a problem with one key on there and its really pissin me off, i did check the service manual, but i want to know if its works the same way?
Malik05 said:
hey thanks a lot for the link...and also for Reighvin for proving that its possible cuz the same EXACT thing happend to my brother....
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Now I have the same problem. The connectors drop out, I can't charge or sync. Any suggestions? I don't know to solder at all.
Removing the back housing on the 8125
Hello Reighvin,
I'm trying to take my 8125 apart to remove the camera module. I have the Wizard service manual and was able to take the battery cover (of course!) and the camera cover off. I also was able to take out the 4 screws holding the back housing on. I was not able to figure out how to take the back housing off, though. The Wizard has a little different housing from the 8125. The Wizard manual shows where there are plastic clips holding the back housing in place. I'm not sure where the 8125 housing clips are.
You said in your posting above that after the screws are removed, the back houseing just lifts out. Didn't you have problems with the plastic clips that still hold it in place? What did you use to pry the back housing out after removing the screws?
Thanks much,
Cingular 8125 GSM Reception Problem
I have replaced the full housing of my cingular 8125 and after that I am phacing a problem with it's signal reception. It can find the provider I can make a phonecall but it cuts the line when it tries to get signal from another transmitter point of the same provider. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem.
Thanks in advance!!
Hi,
I am looking at replacing the full housing on my MDA Vario. (current one is very badly scratched)
Anyone done a full disassembly of this unit? Any tips or things to watch out for?
Many thanks,
Jon
Hey Guys,
Well, I'm a bit gutted really! I dropped my XDA Mini S on the floor with the charger in and the connector IN the phone has come apart from inside the phone. The little metal bit is practically hanging out. I'm wondering, if i were to take the phone apart could i re-connect the little part? (I have a soldering iron if thats as simple as its going to be?)
Just wondering if anyone had any guides on how to take the phone apart and take a look at whats wrong?
Any help would be so much appreciated!
Many Thanks,
Tom
The service manual is hosted on the ftp site.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
Hope this helps.
I suspect you probably broke the socket off, but if you have a soldering iron, you might as well try to get a new mini USB connector to work with.
You might try Pocket PC Techs:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~UTStarcom_XV6700-554~area~repairs~item~REP-USBCON01~name~UTStarcom+XV6700+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
I rang them up about an issue I had (screen on the fritz) and they seemed pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
Alternatively there's a company I found today in the UK. I can't vouch if they're good or not.
http://www.xdarepairs.co.uk/home.asp
Good luck.
Well I also have an issue with my wizzard... the mini jack connector (of the handsfree) is a bit loose.
What I am saying is that it does have a good connection with the rest of the circuit and sometimes the sound of the speaker goes off, then I have to insert the habdsfree and tickle it a little bit until it has a good contact.
? have some basic soldering experience,do you think I should give it a try?
Given my device has been apart too many times for me to admit to I thought I'd crack it open to take a pic for you guys. Not sure if this pic will help for those wanting to do some soldering:
Very large pic: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/452691530_f47801708f_o.jpg
Excuse the dust.
Ah! That picture at the bottom is exactly what I needed. The metal but at the bottom (the big sqaure) has totally sheared off....bloody thing. Thanks so much for the info on the repair guides. I may give those repair guys a call if i can't get it to work myself.
Thanks alot you guys
As for you WizeMan, it all depends on if you wish to void your warrenty or not. At the end of the day, I installed WM6 on my device so O2 would give me the finger if i tryed to claim. If I'm honest, I'm getting an upgrade next month so I'm not to bothered if I balls it up! Would be nice if I got it working though....
Lemmie know how you get on
unlock k-jam
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
lironasseo said:
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
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A little bit of a thread hijack but that means it is SIM unlocked.
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
WizeMan said:
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
AsGF2MX said:
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
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Click to collapse
Allright here is the deal.
1. I found out the break in the soldier joints when i opened it. I was really suspicious about it because when i inserted my headphone jack into the connector, i had problem with the contact; the connector was loose and it muted my phones speaker. When i disassembled the phone using the service manual i saw with my eyes that the the joins where f-ed up.
2. I dont really need the signal hack i just wanted to experiment, i have 2.25.11 cingular radio rom and its great.
Btw i suppose you should better use the sponge, because the rubber may wear off but not the sponge...
Thanks for the tip on the sponge. I am going to grab a used but allegedly "like new" body from eBay and also get one of those covers as well.
Hi there
I have broken recently the USB connector at the bottom of the device. Managed to replace it with a good one but one of the pads is broken of the board. Has anyone got a schematics of it or know where the USB connection point are? It does charge but is not recognised by ActiveSync
THanks
Here you have the Charmer Service Manual:
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Charmer_Service_Manual.pdf
thanks for that. However, there is no schematics in this manual. I have already replaced the connector but one of the pins has come of the board. Need a point on board to connect it to. It is the second pin from left looking at the connector facing you.
Thanks
Got to ask,did you get the same USB connector? as i looked and could not find the same one,in the end i replaced it with a smaller one,as for your problem,I have taken mine apart and had a good look round,on the underside there is what looks like a point you could try,it's right where the second pin is,how you would solder there is a tuff one but thats the only thing i can see.
Thanks to your reply. I have notice it and did solder but did not do anything. Can you possibly buzz the connector to the point around and just check which one of them to connect to. I have tried with MDA I but it is complitly different board.
Thanks
I will have a try for you over the next few days,kinda busy with a move going on,just to make sure i'm looking at the right pin,it's the second one along as you look from above going left to right?
failing to load the zipped pic. Only up to 2 MB - should be 8 mb max
As you are looking at the pins connected to the board it is the second one from left. For other people's use if you get all 3 ot them on pic should somebody else need it. If you cannot get the pic I will try to upload the pic tomorrow.
Thanks for your effort
the pic of broken pad
As promissed here is the pic. It's the second pad from left
Thanks
Lonegunman, are you still with us?
Still here, have done a few tests to see if i can pin point a place for you but not had much luck, problem being my one is working, what i will do at some point is remove pin 2 from mine and see if i can find a point, just for your info the pin you are missing is the data -, so as you say it will charge but not sync.
thanks..... Dont think you need to remove it. If you got the multimeter you can measure resistance from that pin to anything around it. when resistance is zero it is defo a point I can connect it to.
Thanks for your effort once again
anyone willing to help please
please...someone has an open charmer. All I need is someone to buzz the second pin to a place on the board
Sorry been busy on loads of other thing (repairing a plasma TV is no fun i can tell you)anyway if your uk based PM me you address i should have a spare one i can post over to you for you to try and work out what you need.
pm sent. thanks
Special thanks to lonegunman who kindly sent me his MDA and help to repair it. The data pin connects to SM resistor just above it.
Thanks lonegunman again
well, I think I may have accidentally signed my wizards death warrant...
I dropped it at work today, and at first, everything looked fine, still worked, so I figured it was ok.... well, I was wrong, when I got home, I plugged it into the charger, and it wouldn't charge. tried another charger, still nothing... I opened up the back case, and the mini usb connector was snapped off the board.... needless to say, I had a lovely string of expletives...
The question now, is there any way to fix this without replacing the board its connected to?
For now, I'm gonna hafta go buy a new phone... this sucks!
I saw a thread yesterday, something to do with saving a dying breed, there was a guy in there that said he had loads of the usb bits, post might have been old but worth a shot...
YUP !
Its repairable,if you have good experience with electronics and gadgets and also have knowledge and worked with fine soldering,get hold of the service manual and can repair yourself.Otherwise take it to some Mobile repair shop,they can do it,no big deal.
Did the same thing. The usb on the wizard is honestly not soldered on well at all(mine was a definite cold solder joint). You may have just broken the solder and not the leads from the usb plug that go to the board. I, unfortunately, kicked mine while it was plugged in and broke the leads all together. I had my brother take an old phone he had with a mini usb plug and swap it out in no time. Long story short you can now swing my phone by it's usb cable, although I wouldn't recommend that!
YAY! lol...
well, its temporarily fixed(till this weekend, when I'll have the time and patience to solder it....
I used some automotive goop(really thick and heavy glue, I use it to glue everything...)to re attach the mini usb. this stuff sticks to anything and dries rock solid! The phone charges, but the computer is telling me that it cant recognize it. Hell, Im just happy that all I need to do is solder the damn thing on.... I thought I killed my beloved MDA!
Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.
Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
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I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!
hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.
Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?
from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.
Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
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Click to collapse
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
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Click to collapse
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?
Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.
As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.