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Hi,
is there anyway to disable the storage card being turned off when the battery falls below the critical level (about 19%), to avoid the Storage Card 2 problems/Critical Memory Level notices, I would prefer once the power has gone the unit stays off untill recharged.
Thanks
STI555
SD Card, Wi-Fi, and few others is switch of at 10%, not 19%
But that wasn't the answer, i am searching a method to disable that on a magician
Hello,
years later and i am searching for an answer to that "Problem" too. I'm not amused about that handling, that the sd-card is disabled when the battery has only 10% capacity remaining.
Is there a reg-key, where we can change the level, when this behaviour occurs?
Anyone knows any tweaks that can adjust the battery level to disconnect SD card. It's really annoying as I installed a lot of softs on Storage Card. Thank you.
With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
How much percentage does your battery use in standby with edge and airplane mode (no connections)
Kumar's Rom V2.1 Premium
Radio: 2.11.50.20
Standby with only edge and I loose 10% in 8 hours.
Standby airplane mode I loose 8% in 8 hours.
Leave your phone on standby all night and post your results
dy2k said:
How much percentage does your battery use in standby with edge and airplane mode (no connections)
Kumar's Rom V2.1 Premium
Radio: 2.11.50.20
Standby with only edge and I loose 10% in 8 hours.
Standby airplane mode I loose 8% in 8 hours.
Leave your phone on standby all night and post your results
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll test it tonight and let you how. However, I would expect it to drain slower than that in airplane mode, especially if the screen is left off. I put my TP2 in airplane mode to do the same test back when I first got my HD2, and the battery lasted for over 17 days before dying
Yeah.
I think I shall alternate radios and post results. But I don't think I would get different results if its in airplane mode due that it won't be looking for a signal. But who knows maybe it makes a difference.
I would think it would last a very long time, maybe over a week between charges if it was in airplane mode, and in sleep mode the entire time.
In sleep mode the CPU should be in a suspended mode, maybe waking occasionally to check for things like upcoming appointments. The only thing really consuming power would be the RAM. the type of RAM could extend the battery even more. DRAM has to be constantly refreshed, so you have the RAM chips and memory controller eating up power refreshing it constantly. If its SRAM, it can run for a VERY long time on very little power. I'm not sure if the HD2 had DRAM or SRAM, likely its DRAM though
I have a 4MB PCMCIA SRAM card that can hold its contents for a few years using the small CR2025 button cell in the card. DRAM would probably drain a button cell in a few hours.
Ok...some interesting results:
I tested this last night by charging my HD2 all the way to 100% just before bed, and then letting it sit on my desk all night in airplane mode, with the screen off....
7 hours later, the batt had drained 7%
As d0ug mentioned, this is FAR faster of a drain that we should expect when running the phone with all the radios completely off like that...in fact, it's about 4x the rate of drain (percentage of total capacity vs time) that I got on my TP2 when running the same experiment.
So, my conclusion is that there's obviously something on the phone that's running down the battery besides the usual suspects, and nothing obvious I can see or think of offhand.
ahh thanks for the info. Hmmm that throws the 490 hrs in standby that is advertised of the window. But with the 1 ghz processor I am guessing 100 hrs in standby is good. Also I read that some HD2s drain slower after 50%
dy2k said:
ahh thanks for the info. Hmmm that throws the 490 hrs in standby that is advertised of the window. But with the 1 ghz processor I am guessing 100 hrs in standby is good. Also I read that some HD2s drain slower after 50%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It still seems too fast to me, for the drain when the radios is off. I'm going to repeat the experiment for the next couple of nights...I think tonight I'll take the SD card out (as well as leaving it in airplane mode) and see if that makes any difference.
What raises the red flag for me is that the rate of drain I saw last night isn't significantly less than what I see when I leave the radios on all night, and in full 3G
Sounds to me like the processor is not going completely to sleep, When i say to sleep i literally mean the processor clock being stopped. Ideally that's what it should be doing until something like an incoming call, message, appointment, etc triggers an interrupt to wake the processor
As we already know from the overclocking util that exists, the HD2 does not run 1ghz all the time. The processor speed steps depending on demand. when its on but idle the processor clock is suspected to have dropped down somewhere in the 100-200mhz range, but a bug in that software does not display the actual processor speed in the lowest range.
I wonder if the processor is constantly on at that 100-200mhz rate even while asleep? or its just some very power hungry ram being refreshed? 576mb is a lot of ram cells to be refreshing several times a second to keep the data in them valid.
d0ug said:
Sounds to me like the processor is not going completely to sleep, When i say to sleep i literally mean the processor clock being stopped. Ideally that's what it should be doing until something like an incoming call, message, appointment, etc triggers an interrupt to wake the processor
As we already know from the overclocking util that exists, the HD2 does not run 1ghz all the time. The processor speed steps depending on demand. when its on but idle the processor clock is suspected to have dropped down somewhere in the 100-200mhz range, but a bug in that software does not display the actual processor speed in the lowest range.
I wonder if the processor is constantly on at that 100-200mhz rate even while asleep? or its just some very power hungry ram being refreshed? 576mb is a lot of ram cells to be refreshing several times a second to keep the data in them valid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect the same, that the proc or memory are still drawing a surprisingly large amount of current when the phone is "idle". I don't know if it's also possible that there's something keeping power fed to the SD card at that time, tonight's test will confirm or deny that theory.
Wherever the draw is, it's obviously something unique to this phone, so I guess it could even be related to the way the hardware drivers are handling *something*..??
sirphunkee said:
I suspect the same, that the proc or memory are still drawing a surprisingly large amount of current when the phone is "idle". I don't know if it's also possible that there's something keeping power fed to the SD card at that time, tonight's test will confirm or deny that theory.
Wherever the draw is, it's obviously something unique to this phone, so I guess it could even be related to the way the hardware drivers are handling *something*..??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The results of your test will be interesting, but i highly suspect that its not the SD card. there should be very little current draw from an idle SD card. Flash memory needs no power to retain its contents, so the only power an idle SD card should be consuming is whatever is needed to power the flash controller enough to sit and wait for a read/write command.
Of course that doesn't mean that the firmware on the controller of particular SD cards isn't faulty causing a huge power draw, of even an installed app on the phone constantly reading/writing something on the SD card.
d0ug said:
Of course that doesn't mean that the firmware on the controller of particular SD cards isn't faulty causing a huge power draw, of even an installed app on the phone constantly reading/writing something on the SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bingo and bingo, that's exactly what I want to eliminate first before looking for other causes. By chance, is there a way to look at the actual current draw on the batt in real time?
sirphunkee said:
Bingo and bingo, that's exactly what I want to eliminate first before looking for other causes. By chance, is there a way to look at the actual current draw on the batt in real time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, you would need to find some way to get some jumper wires in between the battery and the HD2 so that you could put a multimeter in between the battery and HD2. then you could see the MA being drawn from the battery in realtime on the
you might be able to get creative with a piece of paper with a layer of foil on each side that doesnt touch eachother. you would insert this between the HD2 contact and battery for only one of the contacts. you could then use alligator clips to connect the multimeter by clamping the paper, but insulating the opposite side of each clip so that you dont create a short that can route around the meter
There used to be a battery monitor software i used on my old wizard that would also show the ma being consumed, updated every 10 sec or so. I dont remember what the software was called and im pretty sure it was probably hardware specific for the omap chipset in that phone
d0ug said:
sure, you would need to find some way to get some jumper wires in between the battery and the HD2 so that you could put a multimeter in between the battery and HD2. then you could see the MA being drawn from the battery in realtime on the
you might be able to get creative with a piece of paper with a layer of foil on each side that doesnt touch eachother. you would insert this between the HD2 contact and battery for only one of the contacts. you could then use alligator clips to connect the multimeter by clamping the paper, but insulating the opposite side of each clip so that you dont create a short that can route around the meter
There used to be a battery monitor software i used on my old wizard that would also show the ma being consumed, updated every 10 sec or so. I dont remember what the software was called and im pretty sure it was probably hardware specific for the omap chipset in that phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL ok yes I guess that's one way to achieve that I confess I was more just hoping that the batt's circuitry registered/reported the draw in way that could be queried through a driver, etc. I think I'd seen the same app you're referring to back when I had my wizard, but other than using it to maybe point us in the right direction it probably wouldn't be of any use otherwise on this hardware.
So, I did run the test last night w/o the SD card installed, and it actually looks like it did indeed drain slower that way...only about 2% (+/- .5) over the same 7 hour period. However, this just means I want to go back and test it a little more thoroughly that way now, and then with the card in again, just to repeat/validate these results.
However, if it does indeed bear out that the background drain is significantly less with the card removed...I guess that might mean that having the card inserted prevents the proc from idling down as much..?? Not sure of the best way to test/isolate that.
sirphunkee said:
LOL ok yes I guess that's one way to achieve that I confess I was more just hoping that the batt's circuitry registered/reported the draw in way that could be queried through a driver, etc. I think I'd seen the same app you're referring to back when I had my wizard, but other than using it to maybe point us in the right direction it probably wouldn't be of any use otherwise on this hardware.
So, I did run the test last night w/o the SD card installed, and it actually looks like it did indeed drain slower that way...only about 2% (+/- .5) over the same 7 hour period. However, this just means I want to go back and test it a little more thoroughly that way now, and then with the card in again, just to repeat/validate these results.
However, if it does indeed bear out that the background drain is significantly less with the card removed...I guess that might mean that having the card inserted prevents the proc from idling down as much..?? Not sure of the best way to test/isolate that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah now that I think of it, that utility was also an overclocking util for the wizard, so it was most like only going to work on the wizard, or at least only phones using that same omap chip.
Interesting the SD card consumes that much power, are you using the stock 16gig or another card? I wonder if different cards produce different results? Im still using my stock 16gig here, been thinking bout upgrading to a class 6, but i kinda want to get a 32gig card too, but those aren't available in class 6 yet.
d0ug said:
Yeah now that I think of it, that utility was also an overclocking util for the wizard, so it was most like only going to work on the wizard, or at least only phones using that same omap chip.
Interesting the SD card consumes that much power, are you using the stock 16gig or another card? I wonder if different cards produce different results? Im still using my stock 16gig here, been thinking bout upgrading to a class 6, but i kinda want to get a 32gig card too, but those aren't available in class 6 yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, stock 16GB card. Although, I'd never reformatted it since I bought the phone, but I did last night before I pulled it out for the test. I'm watching the drain through the day today to see if that has any effect during normal use, for now anyway. I'll be running the overnight test a few more times w and w/o the card.
Ah interesting. Last night I charged my phone to 100% and left the 3G on and it drained about 10% in 8 hours which is the same on edge. I also notice that when I used the 3g in the morning I saw the 3g icon on top connecting to the network. I am guessing it goes to standby when not being used for a time. I also switched from 3g to edge everytime I wanted to use the internet but am considering to just leave it on 3g due that I think it consumes more power changing the connection everytime I want to use 3g.
Well I guess we need a tweak to put the processor to real standby when the phone's screen has been off for a long time.
I usually charge it before I go to sleep and not leave it on the charger. When I wake up about 6.5 hours later it usually reads 97%. So it drains 3% in over 6 hours. Not too bad. I'm not in airline mode but my data is off since I'm on prepaid. Wifi and phone are on but I think wifi switches off when it goes to standby. My activesync is also set to manual so no downloading during the night.
buzz killington what radio and rom do you use?
I'm using the stock rom and radio without the update.
Rom: 2.10.531.1 (82076)
Radio: 2.08.50.08_2
I should probably add, when I had the activesync on, I'd wake up and it'd have 93%, so it seems activesync uses quite a bit of power.
buzz killington said:
I'm using the stock rom and radio without the update.
Rom: 2.10.531.1 (82076)
Radio: 2.08.50.08_2
I should probably add, when I had the activesync on, I'd wake up and it'd have 93%, so it seems activesync uses quite a bit of power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey buzz...you were using activesync over wifi, do I have that correct?
MicroSD: Genuine Sandisk 32GB card from a reputable retailer.
ROM: Stock 1.72.831.1 Hong Kong.
I loaded all my music and some games onto the card and found that using Battery Log which I found on here that my phone was going from 100% > 87% overnight with everything off which translates to 16ma idle with Battery Log. With the card on the table overnight that the phone went from 100% > 97% or the same numbers when I put in a 2GB and 16GB cards that I have lying around. I've had the phone for 6 months and these are my consistent figures. With these cards inserted, Battery Log registers approximately 4ma consumption at idle.
I then formatted the 32GB Sandisk card using windows 7 (I'd been using the phone's utility until now) and did a full format at FAT32 with default cluster allocation as a last resort and left it empty without any files whatsoever. Well, Battery Log is still reporting the same 16ma consumption at idle and I'm out of options here so I've come to the masters here at XDA for their thoughts.
I never get any errors from the card, have filled it. The only unusual behaviour is from the idle.
airwater9 said:
MicroSD: Genuine Sandisk 32GB card from a reputable retailer.
ROM: Stock 1.72.831.1 Hong Kong.
I loaded all my music and some games onto the card and found that using Battery Log which I found on here that my phone was going from 100% > 87% overnight with everything off which translates to 16ma idle with Battery Log. With the card on the table overnight that the phone went from 100% > 97% or the same numbers when I put in a 2GB and 16GB cards that I have lying around. I've had the phone for 6 months and these are my consistent figures. With these cards inserted, Battery Log registers approximately 4ma consumption at idle.
I then formatted the 32GB Sandisk card using windows 7 (I'd been using the phone's utility until now) and did a full format at FAT32 with default cluster allocation as a last resort and left it empty without any files whatsoever. Well, Battery Log is still reporting the same 16ma consumption at idle and I'm out of options here so I've come to the masters here at XDA for their thoughts.
I never get any errors from the card, have filled it. The only unusual behaviour is from the idle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
plug the phone in overnight???
nrfitchett4 said:
plug the phone in overnight???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I want to solve a technical problem for myself and other users about correct idling and memory card problems not just get by on a charger.
My phone used to give me 2 days moderate usage on a single change. With your solution I would get 2 days on standby with zero usage. Or that's 40% drain over 24 hours instead of the previous 10% drain while idling - big difference and reason I want to get to the bottom of it.
airwater9 said:
I want to solve a technical problem for myself and other users about correct idling and memory card problems not just get by on a charger.
My phone used to give me 2 days moderate usage on a single change. With your solution I would get 2 days on standby with zero usage. Or that's 40% drain over 24 hours instead of the previous 10% drain while idling - big difference and reason I want to get to the bottom of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see it as a problem, it's a known fact that the phone uses more charge when the SD card is in use.
Kalavere said:
I don't see it as a problem, it's a known fact that the phone uses more charge when the SD card is in use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you've read my post correctly. My post is regarding my new card not allowing the phone to go into idle where previous ones have and yes, it is an issue for me.
airwater9 said:
I don't think you've read my post correctly. My post is regarding my new card not allowing the phone to go into idle where previous ones have and yes, it is an issue for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your post states the phone goes into idle, with a higher mA consumption. So it is idling, it's just drawing more current, maybe it's a design flaw of that certain class/size of SanDisk card?
Battery Calibration/Improving Battery life
Requirements:
Device needs to be rooted "Obviously".
Need to have Rom Tool Box Lite or Rom Tool Box Pro.
Some Basic Knowledge on how to use the app.
Note: Turn off Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, GPS, and Auto-sync if they are not in use. Hold down the notifications bar to disable them and activate the Power Saving mode which will make the device conserve energy under low battery state.
Battery Calibration Procedure.
1. Use your phone until the phone battery drains out completely and device gets switched off
2. Switch on the Device to make sure battery really is 0%.
3. Now plug in charger (Device turned off, Dont turn on the device)& leave it for charging until it reaches 100%
4. When the battery is full, switch on the phone, unplug the charger & check if the battery drops by 1 or 2% immediately.
5. If you notice battery drops immediately plug in charger once more (while the phone is on) & let it charge completely.
6. Once charging to 100% is done, don't disconnect the charger, open your root explorer, Provice RW permissions.
7.Search for 'DATA' Folder then 'SYSTEM' Folder.
8.In the 'System' folder you will find 'batterystats.bin' delete this file.
9.Exit Root Explorer and Use your phone normally unless it completly drains the battery(Dont connect your charger)
10.Power On your device and charge your device untill it reached 100%
11.Now you should enjoy the Samsung long Battery Life!!
Note: These methods are not permanent this worked for me so sharing with you.
Greenify your Apps:
NEW: Non-root working mode is now supported in 2.0+, Greenify is a convenient utility that will consequently hibernate battery hoarding applications that wait out of sight after you're done utilizing them.
Google Playstore & Thread
Titanium Backup:
Great battery life, wonderful execution and cool customization— we have seen one or more applications for these things. Presently we should see an alternate must have and a standout amongst the most evaluated applications for established Android gadgets. On the off chance that you got root benefits on your gadget, Titanium Backup is an exceptionally suggested application for you. You may discover various reinforcement applications at the Google Play Store, however none of them does the employment so splendidly and pleasantly.
Google playstore
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Reserverd
very useful info , thanks :good:
rraaka said:
very useful info , thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome :good:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
yogi909 said:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it.
The android system, unlike other OS's actually displays the battery reading from a written data config, known as battery stats in general. While there is, in perception no disadvantage to this method of reporting the average remaining battery life, it isn't the actual battery life you are getting, but the percentage read from your daily usage and then sends the information to the OS for displaying the battery life. Due to this, you can have the percentage misreported, so it is suggested to factory reset every 6 months on stock unrooted and if rooted wipe battery stats using rom toolbox free/pro every 2 weeks to ensure correct reporting of your battery life.
Note - This won't increase battery life, but will ensure correct reporting of battery percentage, which gets messed up quite quickly on custom roms(for some unknow reason).
Undervolting can cause battery drain or better battery life depending on your configurations, if you have the CPU set to running high many of the times(like from a governor or background apps that need regular wakelocks for syncing content) it will slow down the ramping up of frequencies during deep sleep(no effect when screen on) and thus it will hold a longer wakelock for the purpose, so undervolt carefully depending on your usage - mild to mid(medium to high undervolt), mid to high(low to medium undervolt), heavy(low to no undervolt).
Different governors have different scaling methods for CPU, thus will give better or worse battery life depending on your config and usage. A governor ramping up faster and scaling down slower will give better battery life in scenario of heavy usage because the device can go to deep sleep state faster and perform background syncs in an instant; while someone with low to mid(or a bit high also) would like to have a governor that ramps up slower and scales down slowly too so as to complete the syncing of files and media scan(if running) and make the device perform smoother and go into deep-sleep and remain in the state for longer times(though going to DS mode will be a bit slower than a fast downscaling governor) and will occasionally wake up for background syncs, but those will be longer, but won't have much effect on battery life because of lower frequencies being used and syncing complete before high frequency threshold is reached.
Depending on what a user needs for his daily usage it is a good idea to keep the rest of apps(preferably facebook, musixmatch, instagram and shazam) hibernated using something like greenify(which now supports auto-hibernation without root in the beta versions). Auto sync should only be enabled for apps that need it, like E-Mail, Google+, Gmail etc.and rest should be set onto manual sync.
Samsung has a habit of throwing in a lot of features onto their device, so keeping motions enabled, which you don't even use, except for a show-off, is a bad idea because it will drain battery. Exploring the settings menu to disable unneeded things can pay-off as a positive fruit for patience.
Keeping the storage clean is also a good way. A corrupted or highly filled up storage requires more passes to be read and thus keeps the media scanner process running for longer, which puts a strain on the battery life. Also, android OS is based of the 32-bit kernel of linux(for now, 64-bit is planned to be introduced after some time), so the media scanner has to look for data linearly in the storage blocks on the internal and external SD, unlike 64-bit where the data is arranged into random blocks which are then brought together as one and the media scanner can be informed of the address of the blocks due to more threads allowed to be run for same process and also a higher memory bandwidth allocated to each process so as to make it perform faster. Due to this reason, the media scanned isn't informed of all the addresses on the time of data writing and thus has to scan linearly looking for bits of data. So keep the storage clean and minimal. Cloud is a good way if you have decent internet and won't need access to the files stored there in regular period of times.
If using a custom rom make sure that it either comes with the modem for your region or flash the modem of your region after that, so as to ensure better signal stability and thus better lasting battery life. A correct modem can give more dBm of signal at the same place as compared to a wrong one.
A good way to have stable battery life is to enable power saving mode in areas with low signal and when on low battery life only, keep it disabled otherwise or it will slow down the race-to-idle for Deep sleep mode and hence cause a bit more battery drain just before deep-sleep state.
Having location services enabled all the time isn't a good idea either, use it only when needed and keep GPS off otherwise. Samsung allows toggling of most things from notification panel so use it.
Smart stay, smart pause, smart scroll all use the front camera for detection, which requires high voltage for operation(separate from CPU, uncontrollable by software) so keep them off unless needed.
Make sure to keep your device clean. How does this affect battery life? Dust and other things when collected around pins, sockets and connectors prevent efficient passing of electricity and thus forces the device to demand more energy, around half of which is taken away by these. Even metallic dust can have adverse effect due to it making the transfer more rapid and forcing the battery to supply the power, which is most probably wasted.
Automatic brightness is good during daytime, but useless during late evening and night, because brightness level doesn't need to be changed and it keeps the light sensor activated. Disable it after 7 Pm(you can also set up tasker or some other automation tool for this).
An Odexed rom provides more battery life as compared to deodexed, but at the cost of available customization as no mods will work and will instead crash the file related to them. Choose your side wisely and patiently.
If you're going to use some app, check if it uses GCM for providing notifications(usually google search at your service), if not look for an alternative which does. GCM doesn't even use marginal amount of battery and is more efficient in providing the notifications at time and also doesn't need a persistent notification.
Check for wakelocks thoroughly and remove the misbehaving apps or hibernate them if you need them on your device. Also, be sure to update the apps for receiving any fixes and optimizations, which can sometimes also decrease the required wakelock frequency for an app and thus preserve battery life.
Don't keep too much of auto updating widgets on homescreen, these only serve to drain the battery further by auto syncing.
if rooted, use Xposed and boot-manager to disable unneeded apps at boot time and thus preserve battery and time required for full boot-up.
If on a custom kernel use DAC direct(if available) for sounds. This bypasses the output mixer and thus preserves a little bit of battery required to produce and refine the sounds, instead utilize 128x oversampling and FLL tuning for an even better quality.
Don't reboot on a regular basis unless needed, this will eat up battery life quicker.
Don't use any task killer( a long debate on uselessness of those can be found on many sites, with a simple google search), the Android system's LMK is itself more than enough.
Be sure to research carefully on what you really need and what you don't and then use it. Don't go on downloading useless things which you'll delete later on because it creates a small entry in /data/data which gets scanned by media scanner due to being present in its path and thus will make the process longer and more battery hungry.
Some custom kernels allow for controlling deep sleep type. Usually these types are already defined in the kernel tweaking app itself. A person with heavy usage should use the IDLE deep sleep more so the device is able to wake up quickly and doesn't drain much battery in case of many wakelocks. Similarly a light user will benefit with AFTR+LPA due to CPU deep sleep, but this isn't advised for medium to heavy usage(use IDLE+LPA instead) because the wakelocks require a high power to even wake up the device, which will drain more battery if you use your mobile more, because many apps will try to acquire a partial/complete wakelock.
I know this is quite long, but read through carefully and you'll surely get better battery life.
Source : Experience and Google groups
Good knowledge
Thanx
cartmanez said:
Good knowledge
Thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still spreading the batterystats.bin myth? *facepalm*
This has been totally and utterly disproven many, many times, including by core Android developer
So delete away. It doesn't calibrate or improve your battery life though.
I cannot study myself all technically like you what you mentioned in "[Experience][Share]My Usage and Testing of Custom kernels for Touchwiz Kitkat".
But above is well informative and now i get why i was getting worse battery life & longer wakelock by OC and UV with selective governer.
By testing different setting in AgniPureStock 4.2.2 today i reach 25 hr + battery life with my moderate usage.
I am sure above valued information, i will get most out of my battery.
Thank you very much KNIGHT97 for sharing.
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
botski said:
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
aukhan said:
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
botski said:
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xposed is optional. It is only for the experimental features. However, the developer has got 1 or 2 of those working without Xposed in the latest beta(you'll need to join the greenify G+ community for getting the beta, though)
Sent from my RPG with auto targeting
非常有用的信息，谢谢 ：好：
thanks for the info man.....its very helpful
aukhan said:
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man....you rock:good::good:
What about using Juice Defender (available in play store)? I used the basic one first and then ended up buying ultimate because I saw good results. Now the location (using cell tower) based WiFi enable/disable extends my battery life significantly.
The is one of the first apps I install once I feel a new flash is stable.
If you have the Samsung "Toolbox" utility, that floats a button on the screen to access your choice of five apps from anywhere - turn it off. It causes the "security storage" process to peg at 20% all the time the screen is on if "Toolbox" is enabled. When "Toolbox" is disabled, "security storage" process drops to a couple of percent when the device is idle. There's quite a saving on battery drain.
Battery calibration
I have a rooted Nook HD+ running Android 7.1 and I decided to calibrate its battery.
I ran it down to zero as recommended then attached it to the mains.
All I have had for several hours is a black screen with just the charging symbol (battery with lightning inside it). Nothing else, no progress bar, no charge %, nothing Androidy.
Is this as it should be and should I just wait for several more hours or is there something wrong?
Many thanks.