Related
Hello
I have managed to come to the conclusion that the original cause for the d-pad failures is NOT the loose connector as described before. this connector is in fact surprisingly sturdy.
the problem lies with the little black IC on the keypad membrane.
i am taking my hermes tomorrow to my friends' phone repair shop and he is going to heat the IC up for me and allow it to reseat.
i shall report back tomorrow.
------------------------
just in case your wondering, i came to this conclusion by purposefully 'un seating' that IC and lo and behold, intermittent white screen and d-pad failures. however if i applied pressure to the IC it allowed it to make contact and it worked again, let go and white again.
many thanks
It will be interesting to hear the results on this BUT -
I'm not certain I agree with your methodology here though. I am not surprised that deliberately un-seating the IC causes a white screen! In all probability removal of any number of components will cause a white screen! AND of course heat gunning it again to re-establish it's connections will make it work again!
Unfortunately this does not prove to me at least that the IC is the problem for most people. If I remove a capacitor from my TV and the picture goes, I cannot conclude that everyones picture problems are related to that capacitor. The D'pad connection though it may appear sturdy has a set of very fine connections and it only takes one to be fractionally bent or oxidised for you to get the whitescreen or indeed a poor connection of any component or connection.
However the IC was reported on in the loooong white screen thread where some folk found that placing padding on the IC surface or squeezing it would correct the white screen and thereby concluded that it was an IC connection fault.
Of course the problem is IMHO that there are several possible causes and any individual person can have one or a combination of things causing the white screen. So far we have as possible causes:
D/Pad connector (must be seated firmly and FLAT but neither over tightened nor too loose. The pins may also get slighly bent or oxidised so cleaning them or fractionaly bending them may work
The D/Pad IC may have poor contacts.
The LCD Flex cable may have cracks (but less likely in my view)
Some have reported capacitor faults (possibly poor connections or degradation with heating or current draw) on both D/Pad and M/board. These faults may be related to the whitescreen only appearing after 10 or so minutes of use and recovery after switching off for a while.
Heating up - in some cases the whitescreen only appears when the phone is warm/hot. This may be caused by expansion of the multi-layered board causing poor contacts / or possibly components not performing correctly due to heat or current draw.
Often some of these whitescreens can be made to disappear by putting pressure on certain components / connections or even in some cases by squeezing the phone casing near the D'pad area. So all in all it is likely to be poor contact somewhere, it's just that it can be in several possible locations - including but not exclusively the D-Pad IC.
Mike
first of all, can i just say what an honour it is to have you comment on one of my threads!
second of all, i am only trying this as a last resort to revive my hermes before i jump ship to the raphael/diamond. or unless i decided to buy a new keypad PCB for it in the hope it will fix it!
i shall report back as soon as ive been down to the shop
many thanks
hi there
i had the white screen initially and although intermittent was useable, then, progressively got worse. countless reseats of the cable, time and time again, including put 'foam' in the places indicated then i did indeed notice in that post about the ic
so, i decided to experiment with the IC. first two layers of paper on top, made some difference in that i had to apply less pressure to get it to work, and then i though, id heat it up slightly using a hairdryer (only thing i had to hand!) and a nozzle made out of a drinks can and just pry it up gently. and indeed the white screen was permanent although the phone otherwise was functioning.
so, i'm taking it down to my mates tomorrow or as soon as i get a chance and he's gna have a go at reseating it using his fancy hot air gun rework thingumajig
i would definetly go for the raphael! for the sole reason that it has a VGA screen! (im an ebook nut!) and it looks beautiful!lol
will keep this post updated
i have to agree with mike on this ,there are many problems that can cause the white screen problem. But i am betting that heat is the major culprit,wether it is the IC you mention ,is another discussion, unless of course your friends attempt at reseating the IC cures the problem ,once and for all. Good luck anyway. I am keen to find out if it was successful or not
Hi there
well, he had a look at it under some fancy microscope and confirmed the IC was not sitting 'true' meaning not 100% level, he also used some little jig he had which he sat the board in and it confirmed it wasnt level
so, he heated it, and allowed it to reseat and we tried it again and it appears that did not solve it. we used another flex cable from his own spv and it still didnt work, my cable ran beautifully in his spv too though.
so, im going to find a replacement keypad pcb now and go ahead and buy it and see if i can get it to work
Hi
ive been hunting for the last hour and i cant seem to locate a d-pad anywhere
if i was to use a cingular 8525 d-pad in my vario II it would still work, just button orientation would be different wouldnt it?
do you know of anywhere where i could get one?
I'm having whit screen prob on my wizard and a complet housing case change. I didn't know a keyboard can cause white screen. I was looking to buy a new flex cable. what's the ic and who do I heat?
Few days ago, my camera started giving me problems. I get green ish and pink ish distorted image all over. And when I snap, the picture taken is all green (or grey when seen in resco picture viewer).
Actually I hardly use the camera. Although the camera in my opinion is quite ok but not that great and furthermore, I prefer not to waste my battery power by taking camera shots with my Dopod u1000. i usually use my sony errisson k850i instead for taking pictures.
Therefore I can live with not having a camera on my Dopod u1000. But if anyone can enlighten me about why my camera can suddenly become like this I will find peace of mind.
Could it be the cmos sensor problem and if it is then how to fix it? Is it something I cannot do by myself but must go back to HTC service center?
Is it camera drivers problem? I know that the device must have some drivers in built such as the USB and microdrives drivers and that these drivers doesn't come with the rom upgrades.
I did disassemble the unit for other reasons but I suspect the problem was not because of the disassembling the unit. In fact if I remember well, there was something not quite right with the last camera shot I took even before I disassembled the unit. I clicked and the screen went dark for quite a while before the picture appeared.
Thanks
I found an interesting website about cleaning the camera sensor. Unfortunately, there is a negative side to all the methods recommended. That makes it look like it has to be left to professionals. But the problem is camera professionals will not know how to dismantle our Dopod u1000 pocket pc even though they know about digital cameras. they might damage other parts of the pocket pc. So, it has to be either done personally or it has to be done by HTC service department.
http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/index.html
I'm experiencing the same problem and quite sure that is a software problem. I swith the jpg compression from Super Fine to Fine and apparently the problem is gone. When I tried to get back to Sufer fine the problem restart. I would recommend that you reinstall the SW for image if nothing else help. if some one come out with another approach I would like to hear.
cphilip, how did you settle the strap, using the speaker grilled door? it's strong enough? it's something that I miss in my Advantage.
Yes. The anthena casing is made of aluminium. Very strong. Not plastic. At least the casing of my Dopod u1000 is strong and I would believe the Athena is the same. My friend accidentally dropped his unit on to hard floor but the internal parts are perfectly protected by the strong casing. the plastic cover around the camera and the bottom battery cover are the weak parts and can be broken if not careful.
I would love to get the software drivers for the camera. When we buy laptop or desktop, we are usually provided with a set of drivers for the components connected to the main board. Unfortunately, for Pocket pc, we are not given a set of drivers (softwares) so that we can reinstall if anything gets corrupted. I doubt if the some of these drivers comes together with the ROM upgrades for the Athena. The ROm upgrades for Athena are mostly made up of the Windows Mobile operating system that is designed to work with the Athena correct me if I am wrong on this.
Even though I love Michy's WM6.1 ROM, I have already reflashed my unit with the Dopod windows mobile 6 stock rom and the camera is still the same.
BTW, I used a simple string to go through the grill and when I manage to pull the string out from the other side, I tie the string to my strap. then I carefull pull the string to guide the strap through the grills.
Thanks, I though about the same but was affraid the strap will eventually broken the case speaker grill. will do it now.
on the camera problem check on this fórum for the HTC camera and camera album software download and try them. it may bring your camera to live again.
Although the grill of the athena cover is strong But I wouldn't advise on swinging the device with your strap because the string of your strap might wear down and snap if you do it often enough. For me, I like to have the strap around my wrist when reading an ebook in public places because i feel some extra security just in case i accidentally let go of my Athena.
did you get any progress on making your camera working?
rcf2
thanks for your concern and suggestions. unfortunately, i downloaded and tried the softwares but still not resolved. At the moment I am just using my U1000 without the camera and all is fine. if i need to take pictures i will just use my k850i.
But will definitely appreciate any new ideas that might help to restore the camera. Until than the other features of the Athena x7500 is provinding almost all my mobile computing needs. Thanks
cphilip said:
rcf2
thanks for your concern and suggestions. unfortunately, i downloaded and tried the softwares but still not resolved. At the moment I am just using my U1000 without the camera and all is fine. if i need to take pictures i will just use my k850i.
But will definitely appreciate any new ideas that might help to restore the camera. Until than the other features of the Athena x7500 is provinding almost all my mobile computing needs. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to use any other camera application
such as cool camera
Hi, I come on here quite a lot for information as it's an amazing resource! This time however, I'm attempting to give something back!
I experienced the "black screen on slide out" on Monday. Phone completely screwed. I've also had a few droppages and had it apart once before so there's no way warranty is gonna help!
I stripped it down and soon discovered what it is that actually fails on the ribbon. The coating had worn through due to rubbing on something during the slide out / in process. it had been playing up for a while, probably due to shorting out on the metal case, but now the tracks (aluminium?) had worn right down.....
In pic 1 i've circled the worn area. The shiny section is where i'd tried taping over it to prevent shorting, before i realised the tracks were gone.
Got an almost new one off ebay for 15 quid and, realising it was going to happen again, came up with a solution that, so far, looks like it will work....
A while back I bought some "anti rattle felt" for my car's dashboard - really thin and strong self adhesive felt to prevent squeaking joins between dash sections. I cut a piece of this and stuck it to the new ribbon. Once this stuff is on it's well stuck, by the way!
See pic 2 for the modded ribbon cable.
On reassembly everything is working just fine so far! Here's hoping that it lasts longer than 6 months this time!
Just need a new casing now as mine is decidedly second hand!
Hope this turns out to be of use to someone!
cool story bro
when i took apart my xperia to replace the housing this seemed like a really weak point in the device. glad to see someone who has had the problem has been able to fix it
Why does the screen go black?
Hi,
When the coating wears off the ribbon cable it exposes the tracks in it. when you slide the keyboard out the exposed tracks short out on the metal casing and the screen loses it's input signal.
thats whats happened on mine at least and i presume quite a few others?
HTH!
Update:
That's interesting: My phone was also losing signal with the keyboard out, and occasionally while closed up as well. It would just randomly drop to "no signal" for a few seconds.
It hasn't done it since replacing the ribbon cable.....could be coincidental of course.
I'm having the same problem
It just started a week ago and I got the phone in January off of ebay. I'm new to opening up the phone so could anyone help me find the correct tools or have a link to a site with pictured instructions?
I noticed that the sliding mechanism started to go loose about 4-5 months ago but didn't expect the screen not respond in landscape mode. I have yet to see the other symptoms you all are referring to. I would like to fix this before it get worse.
In mine case it went totaly black after one week of this problem... You have all the instruction on youtube, there is where i looked. For tools you can be inovative, but the exactly right ones come with housings from ebay, it is only 15EUR, and i bet you have some cracks so it wouldn't hurt replacing. That is what i did, along with ordering new sliding mechanizm, and new ribbon cable.
I am open for ideas to prevent my ribbon cable from being cut at it weakest point again.
I'm assuming my flex ribbon went bad yesterday, since sliding the keypad out causes my screen to shut off.
Already ordered a cable off ebay and will attempt to replace it myself :O
Replaced my flex ribbon cable with one I bought on eBay. The screen doesn't turn on at all now, which leads me to believe the cable I was sent is defective. Put the old one back in and it works okay, less landscape mode. ughhh what a pain.
great tips! my input is I bought a case off of ebay that was ~60$ and everything actually fit fine for me...so I wouldn't discount every seller but you do get what you pay for, the 15$ cases are probablly the ones that will give you problems
I working in a mobilephone repair center if anyone need help drop me a priv... i able to get 2nd hand or even brand new components
Replaced the flex ribbon cable -
I got my flex ribbon cable a few weeks ago and took it to my local repair shop. They replaced it but the LCD screen/optical joystick receives no power. The touchscreen and everything else on the phone works just fine now. I thought it was a defective item so it was exchanged with a new one.
Got the repair shop to replace it again and the outcome still remains the same as the first.
Theres no light coming from the screen nor the side illumination.
I just told the repair shop to just place the original back in for the mean time.
Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power botton.
Could it be defective a batch that the seller was sending out? or the repair shop's mistake and is playing dumb so they do not have to admint fault?
Hopefully there's an easy fix to this problem.
-Also I did inspect the ribbon before and after the repair. looks new as the OEm
Can anybody help me out with this new problem after replacing the cable -
perhaps you should try a hard reset. Ive had problems in the past where the optical joystick and the illuminators did not work, and that worked for me.
On the other hand, the top illuminators are on the same piece of hardware as the flex cable that was replaced, so a faulty flex cable is possible. The bottom illuminators are on the circuit board that the optical joystick attaches to, separate but connected to the flex cable.
Ive recently replaced my flex cable and touchscreen. The experience i had with the faulty touch screen was that it appeared to receive no power, but was in fact displaying a dark backlit illumination that could only be seen in the dark. At the same time however, the screen did not display anything. I'm not sure if this is similar to your experience, but if so then your touchscreen would need to be replaced.
ive done all repairs on the xperia myself, and one thing ive discovered is if something doesnt work right after a repair, simply disassembling it and reassembling it to make sure all the connections are properly done has worked for me in the past.
"Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power button."
Now when you say the power button, do you mean that a red light appears under it?
I dont know if i can come to a conclusion or that i can help (or have helped) you come to a conclusion, but i can only assure you that the xperia acts out in strange and weird ways.
Good Luck!
Tags
Dismantle / Disassemble Sony Ericson Xperia X1
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Sony-Ericsson-XPERIA-X1/788/1
http://www.formymobile.co.uk/xperiadisassembly.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y (REAR)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGUbxFqvyc&feature=related (FRONT)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elgC8hwHfYQ&feature=related
For info.
Mike
Thanks for the links. I've tried the hardreset and restoring the original rom but the issue is still there. It's really bugging me that everything works but the LCD screen. I'm currently using MyMobiler to use my phone. The touch screen works fine and so does the soft keys. Just no power for the lights. I might just give up and wait for another phone that catches my eye and then tinker with the xperia myself. but if anyone got a solution or want me to test something then I'll give it a try.
My warranty is no longer affective so I'll use my phone as a tester to help others with any problems.
TRIONDAVE, how's your Xperia running now with the cable mod that you did? Its been 6 months since you created the thread. I hope you're still around.
My Xperia X1 works nearly fine, except for the keyboard issues, so I'm thinking of opening it up. If your Ribbon mod helped I might just do it too once I've got it opened. Mine has a MOUNTain of cracks though, and the battery compartment itself is cracked on both side enough to make the compartment CURVED. Hence the Battery cover doesn't sit well.
I'm looking around for broken Xperias which I might be able to use to change the internal cracked casing. Lets see.
DatDereX1 said:
cool story bro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thoughts exactly.
Hello guys, I am in need of real help over here!
Its just that Ive replaced my ribbon cable, the old one got screwd up.
However I got done for 10 minutes ago, tried to start up the phone.. without success :,(
The ribbon cable doesnt have anything to do with the start up, only the screen am I correct? Cause I cannot even start my phone..
Ive connected the charger, but when I remove the battery it shows a red light, meaning no battery, correct?
So what may the problem be exactly? Maybe the battery is all dead, or?
PLEASE HELP!
for the people with ribbon failures how long have you had the phone before it occurred ? im just interested on the cables lifespan.
mine is fine so far but i have noticed the slider is flimsy and rocks left and right.
Ok, jsut got this thing off of ebay, power it all up I notice someone has been inside. eh no real biggie.. I unlock it and test the major functions.. all works. Bring up the camera and holy crap its like looking through the eyes of a lawn gnome tripping off shrooms and acid.. take a look (attached)
I rewiped.. installed Fx Camera to see if it was a setting, and also wiped the memory card (which came with the phone.. cool!) I then turn around and see that the camera lens is cracked on the battery cover, however the lens inside looks pretty good. So, I'm thinking this is a hardware problem, but Im not afraid to try to fix it if its just a few dollars. Am I screwed?
whoah, thats a trip!
If you deem it to be hardware, I have a spare camera from a parted G1. PM if you want details
I may take you up on that, however I am searching google right now to see if you can even replace the CCD
The camera module is on a ribbon cable that attaches to the motherboard, easily removed. So long as the component damaged is not on the mainboard itself you should be fine.
That's what I like to see!
You have a PM
If you plan on taking it apart yourself you need to be extremely careful, i took mine apart to replace the case when i bought it and after putting it back together everything seemed fine but after a while the touchscreen kept dying the camera never worked and my signal dropped all the time, i tried taking it apart and putting it back together several times to no avail. The phone became unuseable and i shelved it for my D600... bad times. It was only until i was going to send my G1 to a phone recycle website that i opened it up one last time, after doing nothing different and putting it back together its for some reason worked ever since. Just a word of warning hope whatever you do works out ok - Adam
Thanks for the warning! Someone already has been in the camera before.. I am going to assume that it was to take a peak at the camera lens so I am not afraid of voiding the warranty. It's no new adventure for me, I have been inside multiple phones and other small electronics, but thank you again. It never hurts to be redundant when opening any electronic device.
PM returned
When disassembling, I like to modify the HTC manual a bit. I remove the back plastic, and the coaxial cables (be VERY CAREFUL when reassembling, they always get pinched!). Then, remove the connectors as instructed EXCEPT the camera. Now, lift the camera portion, as well as the IMEI sticker as a whole module. They are just taped down. When lifted up fully, now you can spin the mainboard out of it's hooks and remove the entire assembly. This was the difficult connection to the camera stays intact. Makes reassembling much easier too, as it will self align.
If you haven't read/downloaded the G1 service manual, you need to!
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Dream SM (A04).pdf
Whoa! My first phone that has a manual!
FTA:
"This document contains highly confidential information, so any or all of this document should not be revealed to any third party."
HAHAHAHA!
h1p1n3 said:
Ok, jsut got this thing off of ebay, power it all up I notice someone has been inside. eh no real biggie.. I unlock it and test the major functions.. all works. Bring up the camera and holy crap its like looking through the eyes of a lawn gnome tripping off shrooms and acid.. take a look (attached)
I rewiped.. installed Fx Camera to see if it was a setting, and also wiped the memory card (which came with the phone.. cool!) I then turn around and see that the camera lens is cracked on the battery cover, however the lens inside looks pretty good. So, I'm thinking this is a hardware problem, but Im not afraid to try to fix it if its just a few dollars. Am I screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My phone just started doing the same thing. I flashed the ADP image to see if it was a bug with the ROM I was using, only to find that it was still all crazy looking. Contemplating if I should try the repair or warranty exchange my phone again, ugghh
mine's doing the same suddenly, according to this: http://www.fixya.com/support/t2307654-htc_g1_camera_takes_pictures_messed_up
it's called solarization but how does one turn it off without a hard reset?
I downloaded the Snap Photo app which allows turning solarization on or off but it makes no difference
Any know how to fix this?
starting to look less and less like hardware
Anyone know how to switch this back to normal?
Hate to say it, but I do not see anything that would point this to software. First, if it was a setting or something software related, it would be resolved by the factory reset.. Heck, flashing the rom like JackSlim did would have reset any bad stacks or drivers.
I did find that post by fixya initially and quickly dismissed when I noticed that 1. Fixya blows... 2. there was no resolution 3. this is the same behavior that digital cameras get when the ccd or cmos goes bad..
PLEASE correct me if Im wrong, I would rather be
h1p1n3 said:
Hate to say it, but I do not see anything that would point this to software. First, if it was a setting or something software related, it would be resolved by the factory reset.. Heck, flashing the rom like JackSlim did would have reset any bad stacks or drivers.
I did find that post by fixya initially and quickly dismissed when I noticed that 1. Fixya blows... 2. there was no resolution 3. this is the same behavior that digital cameras get when the ccd or cmos goes bad..
PLEASE correct me if Im wrong, I would rather be
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After reading the post of Fixya I went into Camera Magic and played with some of the setting and couldn't change it back to normal
Unrooted my G1 today, back to stock Donut DRC83, still the same issues, so I'm pretty sure it's not software related. Since I've had the same issue on the latest Cyanogen build, the Android Dev Phone build & the stock Donut build.
Called T-Mobile to get a warranty replacement, so I'm $9.99 and a couple days away from having another phone.
That's my fix anyways
I hope anyone not covered under a warranty is able to find a solution, my guess is you would have to replace the camera itself as Speed mentioned in one of the earlier posts, so look for a parted out phone or a aftermarket parts store and good luck with opening up the phone
As soon as money goes into my paypal account and I replace it I will post my results. Heck, if anyone is interested I will do a step by step for future reference. With pictures taken from a working camera, of course.
The only reason I am thinking software is that it seems like it is occurring to a few people all of a sudden where a week ago none of us had heard of this. I had a accelerometer problem with a G1 and I took it back to the RC29 rom and everything trying to fix it, it never would work. Sent it to HTC and they reflashed it...worked fine. They said there were no hardware issues. That makes me think there must be a bit of software that isnt getting replaced (like bios on a pc?). Perhaps what is going on is hardware..just hard to say right now.
The camera itself may have some firmware that is corrupted. Also possible that there's a fried transistor somewhere along the line. Could even be something really simple, like a bad ribbon cable or connection.
Cheers for Manual link
will greatly help when I swap over from black case to white case
( sticky keys and a mate wanted white one sooo $30 AUD for an complete white kit and hoping for sucsessfull fixed KB glitch )
note that you will still have black buttons for volume and camera, as well as memory card cover. That is what kept me from changing colors on mine- I went with a black replacement case so I didnt have the wrong colored buttons
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm
Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!
From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered
Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.
E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!
Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.
^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)
Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.
^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
No one has any insights ???
johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
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Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR
Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
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check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL
Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
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I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?
Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
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Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.
This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!