Really need help here,
My hermes suddenly decided that visuals are no longer needed.
That means the screens stays off all the time (yes even in bootloader mode).
It works, receive calls and flashes roms but in no situation can I see anything on the screen (pitch black screen).
I've got no warranty so I took it apart and checked each cable and connector - no issues were seen. I tried changing SPL-s, RUU, Roms all worked but left my tytn with that black screen.
Did anyone see this happen or has any advice?
This sucks big time :-(
No one? Oh man, I guess it's dead then :-(
Last bump before giving up and throwing it away - please?
send it to me if your gonna throw it away : - 0
I've given up on mine as well. It has white screen though. Where do I dump this thing?
If it is out of warrenty, I would take it apart as is sounds like the hardware, check the connections to the LCD. Does the backlight still work, or if you put it in strong sunlight, can you see the LCD working?
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
what are you guys willing to sell your pdas for? Mine fell in a puddle and i need one for parts. The white screen might be fixable the first couple of times but then it dies off for good, the black screen i've never heard of.
So if you want to sell for a reasonably cheap price let me know, i can buy a new keypad online for $50. So around there would be nice!
i.a.wright said:
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tested this on mine and actually got some results.
mines the opposite though, it will NOT work with any pressure. I left all the screws loose for that board under the buttons, and left the LCD assemble screws out on that end and it works, But if I press the keys it whites out again and won't come back until I repeat the dis-assemble/re-assemble
I had a similar problem but this was after someone dropped mine on the floor. The screen would just be white screen, while everything worked. If I pressed the bottom right of the phone it would sometimes come on and stay on for a little while but would eventually always go to white screen.
I did manage to use the phone but had use a program called Net Control which allowed me to control the phone over WIFI with the phone screen shown on the PC. Got the phone replaced in the end by the people who dropped it.
i got the flex cable and my phone still has the white screen problem....wtf///
Like the topics states my 8125 will fade the screen every time I slide my keyboard open. It does it about halfway through the slide. Also practically non of the buttons on the front work anymore. I was told the ribbon cable may be loose, so I took it apart. I got all the way until the back of the screen seperates from the screen. I was pulling that apart and it didnt want to come so I just stoped in fear of breaking something. It was almost as if glue was holding a board on. Anyways I looked around as best I could and did not see anything. When I turned it back on it started right up but still fades out when slide open. Its been doing this for some time now and I just got back into the the cell phone thing rather then purchasing a new one. NBD ROM but the problem existed way before changing anything on the phone. Any help would be great. TIA
ttt anyone??
You will have to use a clipper preferably a plastic one to seperate the black back panel of the LCD housing,insert the clipper from the side and then run it along the entire panel till the six(i think) clamps unlock,then gently pry the back panel off taking care not to cut the flexi strip,that should do.It is most unlikely that it is a software issue,85% its a strip problem and 15% maybe because of the LCD.
Any chance you mean the ribbon cable when u say strip?
I have had the cable off and visualy looks ok.
any chance there is a replacement cable that I can purchace somewhere?
I cracked my aria screen pretty much right after I got it, Managed to get my hands on a new digitizer and replaced it. I found a quick walkthrough on Android forums. It helped but had a few points that could have been more succinct.
Posting here in case anyone needs.
Took me about an 1hr 30min the first time trying to figure it out on my own.
My additional comments are indicated by **.
I put some addendums to @Jcawesome's steps...
( http://androidforums.com/1211507-post42.html )
1. Remove backcover
2. Remove Battery, sim chip, and memory card
3. Unscrew the top two screws (meaning the end farthest from the memory card.)
4. Using a flat plastic wedge, (I used the one that came from my ebay order, it looks like the blue tool in this pic )
5. Carefully pull off the parts at the top being very cautious not to break anything. (Do not pull the circuit board out, only lift the end closest to the edge of the phone)
** there are two pieces to pull off....with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you) a larger yellow piece with an attached back speaker comes out towards you. a second piece pulls up (north as if on a map)... but becareful because there is a bunch of tape and tackiness all throughout this thing (literally I felt it was held together by tape). I actually pulled off the grill on front as well.
** the circuit board is kept attached near the top right. the element that is the power button snaps off. (there are two little dots just to the right of the speaker with what looks like blackish tape that connects to the circuit board... you can pop this off.
With that off, I could lift the circuit board about 30 degrees or so... I wasn't comfortable pulling it back any farther than that.
I did step 5 AFTER I got the screen off.
6. Using the flat plastic wedge again, push the wedge tool between the phone and the broken screen. (It will feel like you are breaking it but it is fine, it is held on by a sticky paste that will slowly give way)
** careful on this part... especially difficult depending on how your screen is cracked. but it is just a bunch of sticky tape that is keeping it attached.... I had to peel away the goo and connection near the top sensitive areas as my ear piece speaker came off with the goo.
7. Disconnect the connecter from the old digitizer to the new one and remove the old digitizer.
**I used a small little tweezer and sneaked it in underneath the circuit board to pull the digitizer connection out.... a little difficult to push back in, but just took some patience.
8. Being careful not to put fingerprints on any exposed surface of either the phone lcd or the replace screen, place the new digitizer in the exact spot of the old one.
** have some lint free microfiber cloth handy and perhaps some screen cleaner.... I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the lcd screen before laying the replacement digitizer back on.
I actually did step 9 before step 8.
9. Connect the connecter from the new digitizer to the board, be careful not to pull the circuit board out and do not scratch the board.
10. You may want to use some glue to hold the new screen on, hopefully this will not happen again. My phone still had enough of the sticky paste left to hold the new screen fine.
** I agree... the first time you replace it will be fine.... afterwards tho, I can see it running out of tackiness.....
11. Put the phone back together in reverse order.
12. Turn it one and everything should be working again.
** in a nut shell
1) take out two screws
2) detach two yellow shell pieces
3) unhook a latch that is the power button
4) pry off the screen
5) lift the circuit board approx 30 degrees.
6) detach digitizer connection from underneath using tweezer
7) replace digitizer connection, return circuit board flat
8)position digitizer and press down to adhere
9)replace two plastic yellow shell pieces
10) screw it back together
done.
let me know if you have any questions.=)
enjoy your "brand" new aria.
dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...
Sorry eortizr, If I made it seem easier than it was. I spent quite a while cleaning the lcd screen when I replaced the digitizer... I don't think it's possible to change the digitizer without getting fingerprints on it though. But with some diligence and working in a clean area, I was able to keep all dust and finger prints out of the final product.
My wife dropped hers. Cracked up pretty good but still functional. Think I might just go ahead and pay the $100 and have someone who does it for a living do it.
I can totally see me trying DIY concentrating real hard dripping sweat all over it and ruining the MB. LOL
Replaced the screen today. Half way in I thought I definitely bit off more than I could chew. I got it done though. A couple of things I learned:
The digitizer unplugs away from you or toward the screen with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you). I kept thinking i had to unplug it by pulling it north, toward the top of the phone.
I dropped and threw away both the front speaker and the very small rubber piece that covers the proximity sensor so... when I turned the phone on everything looked good, until I answered my phone. The screen went blank and I couldn't hear anything. I found the speaker and the proximity sensor cover and replaced them.
I would do it again, its worth saving $50 or so.
Thanks for the tutorial dreamflux.
I found the whole kit including the adhesive here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180643624141
This is the seller in case the sale ends and the link breaks: http://myworld.ebay.com/chinaphoneaccessories/?_trksid=p4340.l2559
I found a replacement digitizer from tmart dot com for $55, free shipping. Just search Aria on their site, you'll find it. Sorry, I can't seem to post links yet.
What was peculiar, was that it has only the HTC logo in the center, and no ATT logo. Looks nice and clean. They included plastic separator tools and torx drivers, though nothing in this phone uses torx. The site is a little shady, and while their headquartered in Hong Kong, it shipped from Brooklyn NY about 5 days after purchase, priority mail. The swap wasn't bad, but my only complaint is that the lights from the softkeys seem to shine up onto the screen, but you get used to it. It's probably because I didn't transfer the stickers over on the bottom of the digitizer.
Thanks for the directions ... I just replaced my digitizer. I had 2 major problems: 1) my power button doesn't work any longer (I'm going to take it apart and try to put it back together and see if that fixes it), and 2) you HAVE to use BLACK sticky stuff to seat the bottom of the digitizer - I used the clear stuff that came with the digitizer, and now I have tons of light bleeding into the LCD from the button backlights. I'm not sure what to do about the bleed ... I guess I'll have to tear it down again and put black stuff in ... damn.
That's the deal with that excess backlighting! I thought it was just a matter of the screen being misaligned. Terrible that I have to replace that black foam, it got shredded while I was dismantling the thing to replace the digitizer.
eortizr said:
dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its always suggested to work in a dust-free space but we all know that's virtually impossible.
I had a bit of fun with dust & fingerprints when replacing my LCD after getting my Aria, After a time or two of taking apart and being unsuccessful, I left it as is with one visible flake.
If you take a hot shower the steam in the air sticks to dust particles leaving no dust
Sent from my Liberty using XDA App
aria
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it
dust906 said:
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*Just to make sure I'm putting the electrical tape on correctly*
put the double sided tape on and then put the electrical tap (sticky side facing up) on top of the ds tape then apply the screen to the lcd
Thanks for the explanation dreamflux.. This, along with some youtube videos helped me out to change the digitizer, but patience is THE key...
Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.
Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.
brivette007 said:
Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you have any problems with the digitizer responsivenes or something like that? I'm need one and curious about the quality of the cheap digitizers in ebay.
so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??
jdmsohc22 said:
so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what I meant was the digitizer turns on, but it is just a dark lit screen, no visual anything going on.. If i call it from another phone it will ring, but when i swipe right to left to answer and press around where the answer button is it doesn't respond either, just rings and rings... anyways just wanted to elaborate a little more..
---------- Post added at 02:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 AM ----------
msailer said:
Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same thing is happening with me as well..
^^^^ Soooooo.....I got the same thing on my wife phone, the BLACK SCREEN. I did my homework and read and watched videos on how to replace the digitizer. I was in a steamy room with all my tools from work with pre-cut electrical and .005" double sticky tape. im a mechanical assembler. I did everything to the tee and was very carefull. i think i got a bunk one from china. I bought mine for $19 from china. It had at&t logo and everything. you get what you pay for? So I've got to pay now $50 for a replacement phone through ins. Not bad because before i made the claim i thought the replacement was $150. Anyways just a heads up. Now i got a phone of spare parts Whats cool is that i get to root her phone all over again. So if anyone here has had the black screen. let me know what happened next with your situation. Did you fix it? replaced it with another one? thanks
Hello People,
I've got a little problem with my hd2 ^^
Since several weeks, the plastic from the LED's was pushed inside the device and so the vibration alarm wasn't really silent anymore (since the vibrator is behind the led plastic and it touched it inside).
So now I decided to open the device an push the plastic back in it's place.
Opening the device was really hard because of the massive glue they used^^
But after some minutes I got the electronics out of the body. I cleaned it a little bit up, fixed the plastic an put the device back together.
Starting it, confirmed that the vibration now works silent again, but my screen stays black...
I really don't know what happend there , but I never touched the screen or openend the device more than I had to.
So maybe anyone has an idea?
THanks a lot.
First thing is that i dont understand where you finded "massive glue" if you just opened your phone to place back leds cover/zoom plastic. They dont use glue, only adeshive stick tape. But this is just interesting for me.
Second thing is: are you used some minimalistic bead when you placed back leds cover/zoom plastic? If you didnt, then it can drop again to inside.
If your screen is black then maybe you just acidently touched connector and ribbon cable, where lcd connects to motherboard. You must open your device again and recheck. This connector attached with ribbon cable at lcd must be sealed with yellow tape.
Hello,
sorry a meant adeshive stick tape ^^ I was just hacked off when I wrote this
yes, I put something on the led plastic.
I checked all the connectors and also watched a video where the disassemble the entire phone in order to see where I could have damaged or removed something. But as far as I can see, there is nothing loose or missing. I didn't remove the mainboard; I just took the device out of it's outside cover.
Hmm, i dont have idea whats wrong then.
I opened mine phone not once. Also replaced more 5 HD2 digitizers and lcds. All time dont had this probelm.
Are you sure you dont had static electric on your hands?
yes, I was protected against static electric.
maybe I'm gonna disassemble it totally and see if something else is loose.
Turning it on works, because the vibrator triggers once.
And I just realized that the power led does not work when I'm plugging the device in...strange
That is if you're not scared to take out sixteen screws and figure out to take the back plastic fame off. I havent found a definitive guide for fixing gps and reading quite a few posts of pinch this area or twist/torque your phone and not working I decided to take the phone apart. I did find video guides for screen replacement that I used to figure out this adventure. Heat gun is not needed, but recommended. I highly recommend the plastic spudgers you can get from places like ifixit, but all I had was plastic butter knife and my computer repair kit, of which you will definitely need a #00 Philips screwdrivers.
Ok. The first picture is what you want. How I got to that point was I took out all 16 screws. If you have a heat gun, heat the edges of screen from front first. But if that is too much trouble or scared you'll burn your screen then you're going to have wing it like I did. Start separating the plastic inside the battery cavity. Be careful not to break the little strip of plastic around the micro SD card like I did. But try and make sure you have gap between the phone and insides of the battery cavity. If you have heated your screen adhesive up this will be less tricky. Push out on the micro SD card slot and upper right area of battery cavity. There are plastic locking tabs around the back plastic frame that lock into mid metal frame. Don't be scared to push but also take caution of your screen as our amoled's are very fragile. Keep pushing. Separate the inside parts again if you have to. You're trying to open enough one side will pop out enough you can get a spudger or in my case a plastic butter knife under one side screen and separate the adhesive and give you better chance of pushing out the phone away from the plastic back. Take care when pushing your knife or spudger underneath screen. Only go in about .25"/.5cm max. Don't want to scratch or mess up screen or connectors. In my picture it kind of looks hinged but is because there is adhesive on the other side keeping it like that. But keep pushing til it happens. Once it does separate the rest is easy.
In the second picture you'll notice 3 parts of plastic that look like they can be separated from the back plastic frame. Don't pay attention to that part. Pay attention to the contacts underneath those 3 places where it is like your antenna contacts are on the pcbs underneath. Some other references said the contacts above the vibrator motor were the gps contacts. Well I bent those up and snapped phone back together and tried gps. Didn't work. Btw, you should probably use something plastic or non conductive to bend the contacts up. My plastic butter knife was too thick so I used a very very small flat blade and was particularly careful. I bent every contact related to those 3 pieces of plastic I pointed out on the back plastic. I snapped back together and tested again. Satellites galore. Locked 6 satswithin 15 seconds and locked to another couple next 15 seconds down to 30 feet, inside my apartment. Turned gps off and went outside turned back on and was locking almost 15 satellites in less than 15 seconds to less than 10 feet accuracy. A few more seconds and I picked up more satellites.
Anyways, you can finish there or do some maintenance inside your phone. On all the places those metal contacts contacted on inside of the back plastic frame I used a qtip with cotton torn off and a drop of arctic clean #2 to clean the black spots I saw on contacts on inside of plastic frame popped off. I also cleaned all the contacts. Pushed down on any connector I saw. Used another qtip to clean around the USB cavity on the back plastic frame. Used another qtip with cotton torn off to clean inside USB port. I pushed on the top PCB where underneath are your display related connectors. One thing I forgot was to clean camera since it was exposed but luckily no dust or fingerprints got in it so my camera is fine. While you have it open figure out anything else to routine. Look at the USB PCB closely and take pictures if your USB port I'd flaking out on you for future reference. When done snap back together.
As an aside, when I got to the point I was ready to fully put back together, I notice my power button was mushy when I tried powering on to test before i put all screws in. Took it apart again and kind of slipped. Scared me, and I had reason to because when I put frames back together and made sure power and volume buttons weren't mushy. My screen didn't come on but it vibrated like it was on. Took apart again and pushed on the top PCB and heard a resounding click. Snapped back together turned and screen was good. Whew. Then I put EVERYTHING back together. 16 screws back in. Double checked all the tightnesses by hand and try not to strip any. I'm sure that will be a bad headache if you strip a screw.
After that, *#0*# and do every test to make sure all hardware is good. Goto developer options and Test your pointer location and touches. Test your repaired gps.
Sorry I didn't have better pictures. The moto x is decent camera but didn't take all the pictures I needed because I winged it with common sense and some of the pictures didn't come out well that would helped a little. If you follow all the directions, are careful and pay attention to detail that I might've not pointed out your gps and cellular reception should all have improved if you wiped the contacts clean and bent up a hair. Should've got rid of oxidation, dirt And improved contact so reception should improve a couple dB and your SNR on gps should be quite good.
Second picture didn't show... so here it is... remember this picture is for you to figure out all the contacts underneath the 3 plastic covers on the back plastic frame itself.
Did this thread go unused even though I see people still having GPS issues? GPS is still awesome on my notes after busting it open.