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I plan on buying a deskcharger but ofcourse when putting the phone on it will need removing the rubber cap on the bottom of the phone every time. That's a bit of hassle. So, how to remove the cap permanently ? Hopefully it's possible to cut one end of the rubber "string" and pull it through the hole. If not, then it would be best to open the phone I guess. Anyone know the best procedure for this ? Many thanks.
Where is rubber cap? 8)
code72 said:
Where is rubber cap? 8)
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Where's your head ? As in my original post : " the rubber cap on the bottom of the phone". Anyway I understand this HTC Magician has many different faces and asses My model has the rubber-cap. Any help would be appreciated.
Code72,
The 'rubber cap' is a dust cover for the usb and headphone jack on the Dopod 828, Krome Spy and Orange SPV M500. All the other versions of the Magician don't have it.
Daffie,
I would pull out the rubber cap as far as it can go and cut off the 'strings' as close to the body as possible. that way the ends should just disappear back up into the case.
TheBrit said:
Code72,
The 'rubber cap' is a dust cover for the usb and headphone jack on the Dopod 828, Krome Spy and Orange SPV M500. All the other versions of the Magician don't have it.
Daffie,
I would pull out the rubber cap as far as it can go and cut off the 'strings' as close to the body as possible. that way the ends should just disappear back up into the case.
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Thanks. Yeah that's what I figured. Hopefully if I cut the string on one side only it can be pulled through the hole. That would be the ultimate solution. If that doesn't work then I'll cut both sides. I'm afraid though the leftover piece of string could get a life of it's own inside the phone
:wink:
Hey, I'll swap you my plain vanilla magician for your m500, I like the rubber cap! My USB port is full of dust and crap!
why dont you disassemble the device and remove it? disassembly guid is available on the ftp server of this site
fone_fanatic said:
why dont you disassemble the device and remove it? disassembly guid is available on the ftp server of this site
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I have looked but can't find it. Could you point me in the right direction please ? Thanks.
Hi! So my Wizard (well, the T-Mobile MDA) had an issue where its USB port became completely detached, so I found the service manual and opened it up to fix it. When I got the back housing off to expose the relevant circuit board, a small metal part flew out, and I can't for the life of me figure out where it belongs. The pictures in the manual aren't high enough resolution for me to be able to tell where this tiny sliver of metal fits in. I've since done the soldering I needed to do and fixed the USB jack, and the phone seems to work fine... I've attached two pictures of the part in question, with the phone for scale on the first one.
Any ideas? If I'm not noticing any functional differences, is it reasonable to just not worry about it? Thanks!
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Fantastic. Thanks!
Thanks a million from me too....had the exact same problem yesterday!
Stylist retaining spring
Thanks for the info - I too found this after disassembling my to check and clean the buttons. Although, now it isn't working - rats! I had hoped that finding where this belonged would solve that.
rmcknight said:
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
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You are in wrong, that part, it is beer bottle opener
I used a pixi charging back case (5.99usd) and touchstone charging base (9.99usd) to create this mod. You can find them on clearance at radioshack!
Can be made for other devices: ipods, iphones, bluetooth headset, etc...
Comment plz.
-Carnivore
Maybe some photos and more descriptions?
Im curious how this looks/working.
sure interesting, and most valuable as a proof-of-concept realization, even if I'de never go out with a setup like that
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Nice
Yeah it looks nice but i don't think anybody is siriously going to use this do you??
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Anyways nice work. Good that people are trying to improve the phones usability.
keesmathot said:
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
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oh I bet he's had a lot of fun doing it That alone is more than enough of a reason
I tried doing something like this a little while back, the connectors next to the sim card can be used for charging which would make the whole thing much nicer and easier, it worked good, but the HD2 metal door blocked the signal so it would not charge, so I used it with a sillicon case on top, it was good but not the best, then I tried to hard wire it inside, opened the HD2, it got few dust specs behind the LCD from opening, I tried blowing them away and the whole screen died, well it was a sad story which eventually ended up on ebay, and I had to get a different one I WILL NOT TRY THIS AGAIN, i hope.
thats good of you to try. hope you find a compatible plastic back for it or some other solution.
ill be looking forward to your progress on this as i have a palm pre and an extra touchstone charger.
RedWave31 said:
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
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Click to collapse
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Carnivore9 said:
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
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they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
lude219 said:
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
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I actually was fooling around with a microusb charging head and found that if you ground one of the data wires, the navpanel will show up. I was a little confused at first since I've never used it before then figured out it was a hidden feature.
Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.
Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
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I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!
hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.
Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?
from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.
Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
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I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
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May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
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Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?
Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.
As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.
Just bought a new screen for a cracked hd2 and hit some problems. Firstly, its a uk hd2, so it was a solder connection, i bought the screen + digi from ebay and noticed it was a ribbon connection (not sure if that will make a difference). When undoing these plastic clips
http://imgur.com/Faiyig3
Both broke. They were so brittle, has anybody seen/heard of a way to fix this? I put it all back together and the screen does come on, but touch doesnt work.
Can anybody tell me what these cables do? Is one for touch, what about the other?
Gutted about my hd2, its been going so well all these years...is it fixable?
Not good :-/
those 2 clips: one is the flex ribbon connector & other is the LCD ribbon connector.
The ribbon from LCD also is feed for digitizer.
Not sure if the locking arms are replaceable by themselves ! will look at an old mainboard & see.
you may get some function by bending a very light V in the ribbon so point of v is ribbon contact face & thus pushes tighter in socket promoting better contact.
putting a bit of tape on back may help too! be careful though as actual socket is very fragile too ...
Mister B said:
Not good :-/
those 2 clips: one is the flex ribbon connector & other is the LCD ribbon connector.
The ribbon from LCD also is feed for digitizer.
Not sure if the locking arms are replaceable by themselves ! will look at an old mainboard & see.
you may get some function by bending a very light V in the ribbon so point of v is ribbon contact face & thus pushes tighter in socket promoting better contact.
putting a bit of tape on back may help too! be careful though as actual socket is very fragile too ...
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Tell me about it, thanks for explaining what the ribbon connectors do...I couldn't understand why the screen would turn on if the connector was broke. That's a good idea about slightly bending the cable, I will try that tomorrow afternoon. If i could swap them out, that would be awesome.
Thanks for answering, I appreciate you talking time to help a fellow hd2 fan!
Have made none working digitizer work via creating very light v shape bend in middle of contact area (bending across width of cable)
Do be gentle though ... not sure how successful it will be without clamp though :-/
fracmo2000 said:
Just bought a new screen for a cracked hd2 and hit some problems. Firstly, its a uk hd2, so it was a solder connection, i bought the screen + digi from ebay and noticed it was a ribbon connection (not sure if that will make a difference). When undoing these plastic clips
http://imgur.com/Faiyig3
Both broke. They were so brittle, has anybody seen/heard of a way to fix this? I put it all back together and the screen does come on, but touch doesnt work.
Can anybody tell me what these cables do? Is one for touch, what about the other?
Gutted about my hd2, its been going so well all these years...is it fixable?
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how did they break? i'm going to attempt this myself soon and would appreciate any advice on getting the clips open safely.