Does anyone know what the power output of the RF signal is from the 8525 when it is plugged in (i.e. under external power)? I'm about to get mine this week or next, and am contemplating adding an external antenna and - possibly - an active amplifier to my car. Since the max output on an amp is 3W (2W at 1900MHz), it would seem a waste if the phone can put out 1.5-2W under normal conditions. If normal max output is in the low 100s of mW, I might drop the extra $200 on the amp. Otherwise it just a mag antenna with a 5-6 dBi. I checked google and both the tytn and 8525 manuals and came up empty.
Note: if the data is in dBm vs W, that's fine. I'll convert.
TIA
Related
I have just purchased i.Tech BlueCON35 and Clip S35, totally at USD100.
I plugged the BlueCON into the headset socket of my i-mate JAM through a 2.5mm adapter and paired up with Clip S35. The stereo music is good - far more than just acceptable.
The BlueCON is of dimension 58 x 42 x 9 mm and weighs 14.5 grams. It uses 1 x AAA battery for up to 9 hours for a range of up to 10 meters. It is of bluetooth v1.2 supporting A2DP. It can be plugged into the jack output of any audio device to convert it to support bluetooth stereo.
I also have it, but I don't like to connect my Magician with BlueCON35 using the adapter. What I want to do now is find the way to put BlueCON35 into the Magician's case.
I'm trying to find the small size of mobile phone battery, then modify it and replace to the standard battery so I will get the empty space in the case. After that, I will remove the case of BlueCON35 and put it (the circuit board of BlueCON35) in the empty space in the Magician's case.
But I don't think that it'll be possible because the space is really too small.
Clip S35...
Where did you find the S35 you mentioned? Looking for sellers and can't seem to find a seller (aside from eBay) with any available.
Thanks in advance,
Mick...
Mick, try to visit to http://www.itechdynamic.com, there's the company's website of these products.
Yesterday I tried my S35 with Nokia 6600 using BluePlayer (software to play MP3 from Nokia to S35 wirelessly) the overall of the testing is good. Better for people who using Nokia phone with Symbien OS. I'm in Thailand and Clip S35 cost is about 3,400 baht (40 baht = 1USD) and Nokia 6600 doesn't need BlueCON, only Clip S35 is enough.
is it possible to get bluetooth relayed from my main computer all around my house so that i have wireless internet for my xda2?
something like a relayer of some description.
oh and is it possible to do this cheaply.. if not il go for wifi lol.
Yes
Yes, I use this all the time. I'd recommend getting a Bluetooth 100m adaptor. Connect via BT Activesync.
I would recommend wifi rather than bluetooth for networking in the house. It is much faster and far more stable and doesnt need line of sight.
i have a 100m connector for my pc. but my pda can only do 10m... so can i relay something in my room just to get the extra 10m or something? if so how?
bluetooth isn't line of sight either.
if you have the 100m repeater, it shouldn't matter how far the pda can see, the 100m repeater should get the signal into your room or wherever. only one of the devices needs to be strong, not both.
im not sure why its not working
the xda series bluetooth is only 10m
so as far as i know having a 100m bluetooth dongle dont help
because both ends have to be cetified for 100m for it to have a
range of 100m
maybe some repeater would work
of cause it would prob be more expensive then going wifi
also i find bluetooth slow
cruisin-thru said:
I would recommend wifi rather than bluetooth for networking in the house. It is much faster and far more stable and doesnt need line of sight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bluetooth doesn't need line of sight either. Performance varies, but is actually better than WiFi in some circumstances. It does not matter that your device can only handle 10m, a 100m dongle will still transmit faster to a further distance, in my experience.
Well from experience and having spent quite a bit of money on setting up bluetooth networks in my home...it sucks bigtime. I now have wireless and have never had a problem.
Rudegear, yes you are correct, although it doesnt sound logical it makes no difference whether you have a 100 mtr adaptor on your desktop, if your phone does only 10 meters it will struggle. I had a 100 meter usb dongle but lost signal in the next bedromm.
The reason I mentioned line of sight is because the signal seems to be drastically reduced when it has travelled through a wall, whereas if it is in the same room it will be ok. WiFi is designed for fast data connection over distance while bluetooth is a low power application that has relatively low data speeds.
i think if i put a usb 100 m in a room upstairs aswell then itl work... i have a crappy comp tht i cud use but is it worth doing... i mean its another £20.. i probably will.. thx fr the help.
WIFI v Bluetooth
We have both running, and my wife and i both using simultaneously the XDAII, we measured manually the speed between, and WIFI was marginally better.
We were both in the room next door. However, we do get better distance from the WIFI rather than the bluetooth.
Both were centralised to the house, and both at the same height (about 1.6m high), and all can reach around the house. Few houses get over 20mx20m, so if you centralise either or, you can get around it easy enough with adequate coverage.
WIFI is generally better as most routers and WIFI units can handle multiple simultaneous access, where as bluetooth struggles.
would bluetooth not loose connection speed as the range inc much more then wifi would ?
the watt they send are much much lower
Hi Aidwe,
I just installed a Bluetooth Access Point DBT-900AP from D-Link (euro 50).
Bluetooth-to-LAN Access Point
Connect it somewhere to your internet router/modem/switch via Ethernet.
The box will get an IP-adress and via Bluetooth PAN-profile, you will have internet access throughout the house (circle of +- 10 mtr. around the access point).
My only problem: the Magician (T-Mobile MDA Compact) doesn't support the bluetooth protocol standard, but out of the box XDA's with the Bluetooth Manager will work.
www.dlink.de
http://www.ameinfo.com/44944.html
Greetings Ben...
P.S. no info about the DBT-900 on www.dlink.com !
not sure about the bluetooth stack on universal but himalaya default ms bluetooth stack dont support PAN
Any PPC with 100 meters bluetooth?(or CF card)
Any PPC with 100 meters bluetooth?(or CF card)
It was a few days ago that I’ve published some test results of the HTC Wizard (a.k.a. i-mate K-Jam, T-Mobile MDA Vario, Qtek 9100, MDA Vario, XDA mini S, SPV M3000, VPA Compact II, Dopod 838), Bluetooth and infrared power consumption-wise. Now, the HTC Universal follows suit.
Bluetooth
First and foremost, the case of the Universal seems to be very similar to that of the Wizard: that is, it’s almost impossible to measure the additional power consumption of the Bluetooth module. The difference between the switched on and the switched off case was 1% (at most!) a day (if at all).
This, incidentally, corresponds to my measurements of the BT unit with the PDA switched on. According to my measurements, the BT unit burns between 1 and 2 mA’s in those cases. This, as the device has a 1620 mAh battery, corresponds to between 800 and 1600 hours battery life alone - that is, not taking into account the need to power the dynamic RAM, which is pretty much the same as with the HTC Wizard, which is around 1.25 mWh corresponding to about 2% battery level drop/day (don’t forget that the Wizard has a smaller, 1250 mAh battery; this is why it had a bigger, 2.5% battery charge level drop figure).
Infrared
The same stands for the infrared unit: when switched on, the device consumes about 1% more a day (as opposed to about 1.5% on the Wizard; again, the latter is because of the smaller battery used in the Wizard) – that is, the power consumption of the unit is around 0.8 mWh (just like with the Wizard).
Again, with Pocket PC Phone Edition devices, the Bluetooth and the infrared unit is always on, as opposed to "plain" Pocket PC devices, and actively listen to incoming requests. This is why a desktop Windows device (for example, a notebook equipped with an infrared port and running Windows XP) notices Pocket PC Phone Edition devices at once as an infrared modem (see this screenshot) - or, for that matter, any WM5+ non-Phone Edition Pocket PC devices when not suspended (again, the wireless units of non-Phone Edition Pocket PC devices are only activated when they are on, as opposed to Phone Edition devices).
This is certainly very good news and shows the two devices may use exactly the same Bluetooth / infrared modules & hardware drivers & for example code to listen to incoming infrared requests.
How much power does the GSM radio consume?
Incidentally, I’ve also run a lot of tests to correctly measure the power consumption of the phone module itself with a removed SIM card (to avoid for example incoming calls’ having an adverse effect on battery life; the device was all the time connected to the phone network to be able to start emergency calls any time). It’s about 9%/day at a given location.
Don’t forget that this value is pretty meaningless when used as an absolute measurement: on other locations (for example, far closer/farer from a cell center (with far better/worse radio field strength) the figures would have been entirely different. It’s, however, offers great relative measurement possibilities: I’ll measure the power consumption of my other Phone Edition devices to see whether their phone radio unit is better/worse, power consumption-wise. I’ll publish some Wizard-related results soon.
Verdict
All in all, it’s only when you almost never use your Universal as a PDA (that is, switch on the screen and run something) that there will be ANY difference in the battery life between the enabled and disabled wireless state.
If you switch on the PDA a lot, play games on it and/or receive/initiate many phone calls a day, the additional power consumption of the Bluetooth / infrared unit will be totally negligible. (Let’s point out again and again that the PDA unit in the Universal is really-really power-hungry. While the Wizard – or, for that matter, power-sparing devices like the Pocket Loox 720 or the HP iPAQ hx4700 – only need to be recharged every second or third day with moderate PDA use, the Universal needs to be recharged far more frequently if you often use it as a PDA.)
i disagree on it being power hungry as a pda
mine can go 2-3 days just fine if it receives moderate pda usage
so i would love to hear the exact mA measurements on this
Very interesting, thanks for that!
Could you also test power consumption of Wi-Fi in both "Best Performance" and "Best Battery" mode? That would be very interesting, as I'm guessing Wi-Fi uses a lot more power than IR or BlueTooth does!
cmonex said:
i disagree on it being power hungry as a pda
mine can go 2-3 days just fine if it receives moderate pda usage
so i would love to hear the exact mA measurements on this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.pocketpcmag.com/blogs/index.php?blog=3&p=1219&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1
Can anyone recommend an external (higher gain) aerial for HSDPA.
Works at work and in the High Street, but poor signal at home.
I see Expansys do a selection - has anyone tried any of these ?
Hy Guys!
Problem:
I m working in a factory, where there all many places with low signal strength.
Also sometimes i m getting low signal strength at my home, or outside.
Other phones with my simcard don't have that problem, already tested with a Samsung S2 and a Nokia E90.
Phone was in serviece because often i was get zero signal strength and many missed calls at "normal" places.
My zero signal strength was fixed by the serviece.
Solution(?):
After a little search i was found out, there are two plus Antenna connector at my Note 4 (N910C).
Connection points on phone:
s33.postimg.org/55z9sxzr3/Note_4.jpg
Wire:
s33.postimg.org/tl7htzynz/wire.jpg
Antenna:
s33.postimg.org/rs4l5odhb/s_l500.jpg
Asking:
Can we use that to connect something that get me a little extra signal strength?
I was thinking some Stamp / Foil antenna ( cheap at ebay ) but with the twist, of steel direct connecions with antenna connector wire ( also cheap 1-2 USD ).