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Not sure whether this should be asked in accessories or not, but has anybody found a solution to the inadequate height of the rubber bump-stops on the O2 Exec? Their height isn't quite high enough to prevent the keys touching the screen's part of the clamshell so you end up with the keys getting rubbed smooth, and marks on the case where they touch.
At the moment, I've got a couple of bits of sticky rubber foot on preventing the touch, but they are moving around on the adhesive since there's so little of it.
What we could really do with is somebody with manufacturing facilities to create replacement bump-stops that are taller than the original ones, unless anybody else has a solution?
Cheers,
Steve.
Nobody got a solution to this?
Cheers,
Steve.
Haven't noticed the problem until you mentioned it but that's because I've been keeping my unit in a leather case -- which actually prevents it from closing comppletely (I'm using the piel frama case with the new clear plastic cover)
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
You can rotate the screen by opening the flip cover of the case (ie: PielFrama; XAX case sold by expansys; and many others) Not too sure about your Brodit holder w/ a case though.
Surely there must be a good solution to this? I'd pay good money(well, some) for a set of bump stops that were tall enough to stop the keyboard touching. A bit of a design flaw, I guess...
Cheers,
Steve
what I do is, I sandwich a small cleaning cloth in between....this way, I have the cloth at all times to wipe the display when needed....and also protects the screen and the surroundings from touching the keypad! I use the cloth that came along with my screen protector....
have a great new year!
San
Hi
Has anyone got any ideas about where I can get replacement rubber bump stops (normal or extended height) for my Exec? One of mine has fallen off and got lost. I have tried contacting O2, but short of sending the device back for repair, which I don't want to do, they cannot help.
Thanks for any info.
Mark
I have same problem with my QTEK 9000. I have shiny dots obeside my Universal's screen which corresponds to where the keys are located on the keayboard. I believe this is a manufacturing defect, right?
Anybody was able to return their device because of these spots? I've had my device for 1 month and they're starting to irritate me.
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Tron_Of_Borg said:
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I would rather find somebody who can manufacture taller rubber stops to replace the existing ones...
Cheers,
Steve.
Rubber Keyboard Bump Stops - possible solution
I've had a bit of a play with my Exec - my friend has lost one of his rubber bump-stops, so I prized one of mine out with a jewellers screw driver to find that they are just pushed in, and so it would be relatively easy to lose them, I think.
Using the same thin screwdriver, I applied super-glue to the recess into which the rubber stop sits, and then pushed the stop back in, but not all the way. Now I have a pair of stops that sit about 1-2mm proud of where they were originally, and they are glued in to prevent loss.
I'll try and remember to post back in a week or two to let you know how I get on with them.
Cheers,
Steve.
I sure hope that there isn't a seam down there where the rubber feet were! I'd hate to hear of a PCB glued to the underside of the keyboard cover.
You can see that there are internal components below the recess, but that's why I applied the superglue with the screwdriver around the inner edge of the recess, as opposed to just squirting it into the hole.
As long as you don't flood the hole with glue, none of it will drop through to the components beneath.
Cheers,
Steve.
hello to everybody!
i got my xda trion 2 weeks ago. after one week, it was impossible to bring the stylus into the xda. so i got a new one.
after again one week, the stylus wont come out of the trion.
someone else prob's with the stylus?
greetings
karl
+ 1, probleme like a wizard too
same ting happened with my TyTN today...
+1 with one week old tytn
Same here...
First I couldn't get it out / then I couldn't get it in / then it would simply slide in-and-out freely to the point that only gravity was holding it in place (sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is what happened).
Had to have mine replaced. I've heard this issue has been around since the Wizard...
I really hope I don't have the same problem on TyTn #2!!!
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
andmjones said:
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here TyTN 1 week old.
same here,
think I'll swap mine over for a new one.....
raptorian said:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here in 5 days
happend with me after 2 weeks. I've been struggling for a week, and now it's workng again! Don't know how long it will last. I hope it won't brake down, I bought Hermes thrue internetshop. Always sick to return things.
I carry something like this, and only use the tytn stylus in emergencies. I'm hoping this will reduce wear.
Same here - less than 2 weeks.
:shock:
Same here 5 days, luckley I had a replacment on order for BT problems recived that today lets see how this one goes.
me 2
my TYTN's stylus wouldn't stay in the hole.
i sent my tytn to be replaced (due to BT problems and screen alignment)
and i hope i t won't happen again.
when i put the tytn in the box to be sent so the stylus stopped falling :? )
that is odd
My stylus is a little difficult to remove at times, so I had a look down inside the stylus hole and it appears that there are three of those little pink rubber squares protruding from the side and a dark rubber 'socket' at the end to grip the tip when it's fully inserted. The pink squares are obviously there to provide a little more grip along the length of the stylus, but my guess is that even without them the 'socket' at the end would hold the stylus in place. I imagine that over time the pink rubber will either soften up or disintegrate entirely with the friction.
Solution stylus problem
I had the same problem with my stylus, my solution is take a Poster Buddy Brand name Pritt it is so called here in Holland you can place posters and photo's with it on wals, doors etc. looks like white rubber glue, think I see it in the UK with the name Sticky here you can buy it with photostores and bookstores etc. Take a small piece of it turn it between your vingers to a small ball and put it in the stylus hole after that push it to the end with your stylus.
After I do this I have no further problem with the stylus it works great.
Same issue here... the 2nd day I had it a small transparent square rubber went out of the stylus hole. Now i can put it in and out without problems...
Loose/Jammed Stylus
I'm afraid sending device back for replacement/repair for the stylus problem and loose locking keyboard may only be a temporary fix. Having had my device dismantled I can see exactly what the problesms are with both stylus and keyboard.
For the stylus there is a small block of clear plastic designed to create a friction lock to stop it falling out. There is luckily another small plastic spring lock at the far end so if the stylus is fully in it should click in and not drop out even without the plastic block. The problem is that the plastic block is not held firmly in its slot and as it gets loose creates far too much friction against the stylus which can then drag it right out.
The loose keyboards are due to the metal runners (that you see on back of keyboard partially springing apart (breaking tiny micro welds) at the ends where they lock (or not!) open and closed. These runners if they have sprung open like this will never lock firmly again unless you perform a bit of DIY.
I have performed small operations to fix both these problems and my Keyboard now locks very firmly both open and closed. The stylus issue is dealt with internally with a felt runner at a specific location. BEWARE of course performing these operations will invalidate your warranty. I can be much more specific for anyone who wishes to contact me directly particularly with the keyboard issue which requires quite a chore in dismantling the device - though I can now perform this in half an hour start to finish (Not something I'm proud of with a new device, but I had to workout just how to do the fixes!! )
Actually otherwise I think TYTN is great - superb in fact which is why I did not send it back for repair - couldn't bear to be without it!.
PS Finger around the screen method works every time for me forget all that align screen caper.
Mike
@mikechannon: Do you have high quality pictures of disassembled device where we can see the chipset references? we need to gather information on the hardware used inside the Hermes...
Hi All,
I have updated to the latest AKU3 ROMs and also a few months ago I replaced the housing...However, I've noticed that the screen does not automatically rotate when the screen is swivelled??
Now is this because I did something during re-assembly of the housing OR is there something in the ROM's that disables the hardware somehow??
Cheers
ODY
Unlikely to be the rom, since it's part of the system HTC provided.
If it's been disassembled it's more likely that.
V
vijay555 said:
Unlikely to be the rom, since it's part of the system HTC provided.
If it's been disassembled it's more likely that.
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey VJ, sorry to bother but do you know what jumper/cable/connector/switch to jump/disconnect/tape inside the Universal to keep it from switching?
I'm sure I saw someone mention that the screen rotation is done by a magnet and switch? It's possible that maybe a small magnet fell out during disassembly? But I have looked throught the Universal repair manual and I can't find any reference to such a magnet??
I'd be nice to know exactly where it is so one would be able to take it out, if it were easy. I don't know if I wanna disasemble mine yet...
EDIT found it!! If you use a very, very light metal chain, as I did, with a keyring @ end, you can hover it around the Universal and see the tension of the chain when it's near the magnet. the keyring sticks too!
it's on the lid, behind the video-call video camera. I'm going to check the lid part of the manual.
Well taking the screen section apart is easy! You don't have to disassemble the whole unit. Looks like my magnet fell out then! Trouble is I want to sell mine so I'll just have to declare the auto screen rotate doesn't work (I've made sure that there is the rotate screen icon on the task bar though!!)
Cheers
Ody
odyseus said:
Well taking the screen section apart is easy! You don't have to disassemble the whole unit. Looks like my magnet fell out then! Trouble is I want to sell mine so I'll just have to declare the auto screen rotate doesn't work (I've made sure that there is the rotate screen icon on the task bar though!!)
Cheers
Ody
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works!! I tested it with the very small and highly magnetic point in the bezel of my tablet PC (to hold the pen) and it did change orientation.
thing is that it seems to be stuck beside the sound-holes (when the unit is closed).
I wonder how could I disassemble the lid only? are none of those screws @ the bottom connected to the back part of the lid? if so, that would be awesome!
Hi, on the xda's ftp, you'll find the maintenance manual for Universal...may help you to disassemble yours
thanx for the link!
however, it seems rather risky to try to pry the bezel open while still on the unit. Anyways I'm doing it right know. I'll get back to you.
I did pry it out and took the magnet off... painless(*) procedure and flea-sized magnet! don't loose!
I took a couple of pictures detailing the magnet position and the lid disassembled while still on the unit.
if you want to do this procedure do not loose the tiny screws and...
(*) be careful with the outer speaker (the one that lets you hear a call while the screen is facing the keyboard when closed), it isn't hard wired, it's just two small and fine contacts that might get distorted when putting the lid cover back... I had to take mine out again to correct this problem.
also, be careful with the screw driver and digitizer, as you'll be working in very akward positions to avoid disassembling the whole unit, and take off the battery of course.
Thanks for the photos - looks like my magnet feel out so I bought some 1/8 inch square magnets from ebay. It took a couple to find the sweet spot where the screen rotated but at least it works fibe now!
Cheers
Ody
odyseus said:
Thanks for the photos - looks like my magnet feel out so I bought some 1/8 inch square magnets from ebay. It took a couple to find the sweet spot where the screen rotated but at least it works fibe now!
Cheers
Ody
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no problem. I'm also going to put the magnet back, now the unit doesn't now when it's closed, and therefore the outer speaker does not work. the screen also does not turn off when closed, only when the system timer tells it too... oh well.
you can turn the screen off by pressing the power button briefly.
no ext speaker though! maybe there's a way in software to disable just the rotation; i think the guys trying to get linux comfortable on the universal have some experience with it, maybe they can help.
Hey all,
My Tilt is on the way from AT&T, and I'm looking at cases. The cases that seem to interest me all use magnetic studs. Some have said the magnetic studs can keep the Tilt turned on.
The 2 I like the most are the following:
PDair Book Type
ebay "Premium" Kaiser Case
Anyone had any experience with these or other similar cases with magnetic studs in a similar spot causing problems?
Thanks!
Dont want to hijack your thread but since your on the topic of that case anyone try "PDair Book Type"? Is it still possible to press the keys with the plastic over it?... It doesn't look like it, i seems like you would be pressing more than one button at a time with that plastic over the keyboard.
jinnosuke said:
Dont want to hijack your thread but since your on the topic of that case anyone try "PDair Book Type"? Is it still possible to press the keys with the plastic over it?... It doesn't look like it, i seems like you would be pressing more than one button at a time with that plastic over the keyboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you'll be able to press the keys, but it wont be as good as without the case. As you said, you'll prolly press several buttons at onces and wont get the same feel when typing.
I've used a Prestige case with magnetic closure for a year or more with my AT&T 8525. Never noticed a problem. I'm now using the case with my Tilt, but that's only been a few days. Haven't noticed anything yet, however.
I'm using the PDAir flip case -- the magnetic stud doesn't affect anything. The plastic keyboard cover isn't too bad -- I haven't noticed any problems with multiple keypresses, but it does affect the feel of the keyboard.
I'm looking forward to the Piel Frama case, which should be coming out in the next few weeks. They had a really good case for my old Wizard that used a narrow leather strap & snap to hold the device in the case; you'd unsnap the strap to access the keyboard.
Depends on the magnet strength and location, there have been a few reports of the magnet turning on the phone. The kaiser keyboard uses a magnetic sensor to turn on the phone when the keyboard opens. I'm using a hip holster with mag and not seeing any issue.
I'd say should anyone have the issue, start a thread with brand/model listed for others to avoid.
I have the Seidio case I originally bought for my 8525.
http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=394
The two magnets would always "trick" the screen into thinking the keyboard was open and switch it to landscape mode. I always had to wait a few seconds for the screen to switch back when I took it out of the case.
This does NOT happen with the Tilt. The screen stays in portrait mode. I have always liked the quality of the case and the magnets in the flap make it easy to open and shut. So now it is my perfect solution.
no issues here
YodaJM said:
Hey all,
My Tilt is on the way from AT&T, and I'm looking at cases. The cases that seem to interest me all use magnetic studs. Some have said the magnetic studs can keep the Tilt turned on.
The 2 I like the most are the following:
PDair Book Type
ebay "Premium" Kaiser Case
Anyone had any experience with these or other similar cases with magnetic studs in a similar spot causing problems?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been using a case with two magnetic studs on the flip closure for months now and have had zero issues. Bought mine at Fred Meyers and recomend anyone in need of a good black leather horizontal pouch case to check it out. was 15 dollars and is of the same quality and fit as 40 dollar cases you may see online.
cheers
I've been using a Motorola Case designed for the Q9 with my Tilt and it's worked out quite well. It also has a single magnetic stud closure and I have noticed no issues at all.
I bought the PDair Book Type case same week the Tilt first came out here in the U.S. I have had no problems at all. Non of that shutting off by itself thingy people complain about.
Magnetic cases
Some cases cause screen to wake up, some don't. To eliminate the problem just turn off Slide Wake option in registry. When slide wake is enabled opening the keyboard (or getting too close to a magnet) will wake the screen. Turn this option off and you can use magnetic clasps at will.
Hey anyone already opened up their HD2? I need to open mine since my back button got stuck while my baby girl tried to press too hard on it. Now the back button feels like it's not presing at all compared to the other buttons.
i also have a spare housing that I am thinking of putting in.
Anyone can point me to the right direction?
Thanks
i've had the back off mine.
first search youtube for leo disassembly and you'll find an htc disassembly video: "leo Ds" (and another "leo As" for reassembly). they are somewhat daunting, but do not despair!
mine came back from a htc warranty service with a fingerprint on the inside of the lens glass and i couldn't be bothered sending it back again for cleaning so i did it myself. cracking the case isn't all that easy, or wasn't for me.
after you remove the 4 screws (get the void sticker and moisture indicator out with a pin), you still have to unclip the back from the chassis. WHY do electronics manufacturers design them like that??! in the video the tech uses a plastic hooked tool which i do not possess so i had to rely on my fingernails -- which i nearly pulled out! i tried for a good 15 minutes before it finally separated (with me sweating all the way that i was going to damage the LCD with the force i was having to apply). but it all finished happily in the end.
good luck with yours!
Not sure if it's worth it.
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
.
Assuming u broke the keypad (just like me, but mine is right in the middle) at about the 6th minute of the disassembly video, they'll show u where u'd be replacing the keypad.
Removing the 'lcm and follow the indicator' isnt as simple as it look. you'd find the glue to be really tough. Putting it in an oven, sure, it'd be hot to the touch, and let it cool down a bit it'd be hard again. Hairdryer? Still too hot. Gloves?u'll lose touch sesitivity. So what i did was use a small blade/box cutter and cut which ever visible glue... and assembling, i had to replace all the double sided tape with some cheap ones...weak ones. Could be a good thing.. or a bad thing. Good, cos i know i dont have to wrestle with some really tough glue..in case i ruined my lcd again.... bad.. cos its..not that secure, i rmember that i nearly ripped it open unintentionally!
Neway replacing my digitizer+lcd took about 3 hours...had a couple of breaks, and spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr
Anyway, Best of luck.. .now to find a replacement keypad that cost less than 5usd..hehe
dsx2b said:
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr5usd..hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a good tip here is to work with the phone in a large tupperware box so that if something drops out it can't go anywhere.
note to the OP: i've read several posts where people damaged the ribbon cable connecting the bottom buttons to the mainboard so be careful. it looks very delicate.
Having just opened mine up several times recently I can offer a couple of tips.
1. Unscrew the four screws - they are T5 torx size.
2. Use thin stiff plastic pieces (I found the plastic case that nails are sold in to be the right stiffness and thickness). Cut some up and push them between the case and the phone works so that they hold each of the locking tabs out in turn. I used five or six bits to do this. Three on the vol control side, two at the top and one on the top area of the other side.
3. Then pushing out at the top where the battery would sit while prying with finger nails outward on the long vol control side you can work each of the locking tabs out so the plastic bits hold them unlocked. Do this along that side, across the top and down the other side working each one a little bit as you go and repeat.
4. This should allow the top edge to come out allowing you to lift is out and "up" so that the button end slides out.
This worked very well for me..several times.
The display is held to the electronics portion by double sided tape and yes it is very strong. But you can soften the adhesion significantly using a heat gun. But you must be careful to heat the whole area to avoid thermal differences cracking the screen. The heat will loosen the tapes grip allowing you to pry the screen away from the electronics side.
Note that the screen is made up of the LCD covered by the glued on digitizer and they are connected with a single ribbon cable on the lower right hand side (I think from memory). This means the screen has to lift off with a hinge action. Lifting along the opposite long edge to the ribbon cable, rather than lift from the top or bottom.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I tried to open mine and followeed the video, be careful as the video makes it look much easier than what it really is, I ended up ruining my device, just take your time and do it slowly.
Thanks guys! Gonna try it over the weekend. Worst case is that I break my case or put some cosmetic damage. I have a spare case though hehe.
The problem about the key is the back button feels stuck.... the other buttons are snappy and have a tactile sort of feel, where as the back button doesn't have the same feel. looks like it was pressed to hard and never popped back up...
just annoying when i've been very careful with the phone.
ok looks like i wouldn't have to open my phone.... i tried to but then there's a warranty void sticker, so I just called tmobile and explained about the back key being stuck.... and they're sending me a replacement.
i'm gonna lose my invisible shield full body though... but better than risking breaking my phone....