Hi, great site!
I have been trying to audio enable a powered cradle.
I followed instructions on the connectors page about the 10K resistor on pin 19 to ground, but it doesn't work.
The pcb as shown in the picture, which is the underneath of the pcb is labeled pin 1 - 21 which conflicts with the pinout on the connectors page. Are the pinout for the 2020i and the xda II (2020) the same?
This is the connector the correct way up show inserted in to the 2020i.
I came to the conclusion by resistance testing pin 1 that the topside was 1-21 until i found that the first pin on the bottom side seams to be invisible linked to the first pin on the topside, if you follow my drift.
The charging side of things seems to work OK. ie the charge light comes on and the screen gets brighter which is how i have it set - full brightness on power!
thankssssss
What i could really do with is confirmation of which side of the pcb is odd pins and which side is even pins with pin 1 being left most on the bottom of the pda. This will confirm either way the work i have done.
Thankz
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
And given that XDA 2 accessories work on the 2i, I'd imagine they are the same layout.
Thanks Pug that is the page that i have been referencing for the work i have done! :wink:
Does anyone know what pin 15 UDC- is for?
On the cradle I bought it is connected to pin 17 GND for some reason.
Ideas as to why?
had a mess around with this setup and cannot get the audio to work throught the bottom connector, goona go down the bluetooth gateway alley, will suffice for what i want and has other uses as well!
I was trying to replace a cracked screen on my 8125 and broke a ribbon cable which connected the circuit boards right below the screen.
I've attached a pic of the part I need(I also circled where it broke).
If anyone has this spare part or knows where I might get it, please let me know.
Thanks...
call these guys for a quote
http://onsitecellularrepair.com
I might have one but the upper part is broken which means you can't use the earpiece (if you use a bluetooth or headset, it will be fine). PM me if interested
Hi,
The keyboard stopped working on my device so I opened it up to find the tiny flat keyboard cable not properley seated on the mainboard. I tried putting it back but 1)its SOOOO tine and fidley, and 2) the tiny plastic saddle / clip bit that holds the cable down broke in half.
I suspect it may have been cracked already somehow and that why it came loose.
Anyway, anyone know where I can get one of these little clips? Any tips for putting them back together?
Thanks!
Anthony
Last week I replaced my flex ribbon cable because I tore the ribbon cable to the power button while replacing the digitizer.
After installing the new flex cable my blutooth signal has been terrible. When listening to music via S9-HD's when I go to put the phone back in my pocket the audio cuts out just in the motion from texting to placing the phone in my pocket. Also when walking its impossible to listen to any music because it cuts out so much.
What might my problem be? Is the blutooth antenna on the flex cable or did I mess something up when I took apart my phone?
anyone?
bump
We aren't ignoring you dude. I promise. Have you disassembled the phone again and tried wiggling things around?
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
wonderbread24 said:
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those types of cables are made of SUPER fine wire. A pinch can easily sever them inside the shielding.
How do i know for sure that the kinked cable is the bluetooth cable? So I can order the right one to eliminate that factor.
Does it look like that?
http://www.cellulardr.com/t-mobile-...y-touch-4g-blue-tooth-coax-cable-tmobile.html
There are two that look like that.
One on the left side and one on the right when looking at the phone with the back open and the screen facing down.
Sent from my Glacier using XDA
Well, there is a white and a black cable. The one in the product photo is black. Provided that is not a generic stock photo it should be the black one.
There are many of us in the Nexus 7 community who are looking to build our tablets in to our cars and other places where the power button will not be practically accessible. I am one of those people. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas on how to extend the power button?
The ribbon cable for the power and volume buttons can be seen here: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Nexus+7+Power+&+Volume+Button+Cable/9926/2
The header/connector on the board for the cable looks way too small to solder to and so my latest idea is finding a replacement ribbon cable that I could extend in to a tiny gauge wire and externalize from the case. From what I've been able to find so far, I think this is a ZIF FPC/FFC type ribbon cable and connector? I was thinking of something like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvyL%2b65tEJ/L29YMZjxdjhiuZuU4IfHbXs= But I truly have no idea if this cable will fit? Anybody who's great with PCBs who would like to chime in?
If it helps I found a Molex catalog that has a couple connectors that look similar:
http://www.molex.com/catalog/web_catalog/pdfs/F.pdf
Subscribed!!
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Interesting
jllbenson said:
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
irishboym4 said:
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats very nicely done. I want to do power and volume for my setup. Did the wire size you use work well or would you recommend smaller? otherwise i will need a separate volume control solution for the system. what do you have your tablet connected to for your amp and speakers?
Thanks. I used a 22 gauge wire, the smaller the better I think, as long as it's not bare. As far as amp, I'm using an aftermarket CD deck with a 3.5mm audio in. So I don't really plan on changing the volume on the tablet itself. I'll probably just keep it at 90% to avoid clipping and then adjust the gain with the CD deck. I haven't put it in my car yet though.
Steering Wheel Controls for Car PC
Has anyone tried the Joycon steering wheel control system with an android yet? It supports HID and no drivers are required for windows. It says that it cannot be programed from a linux or mac computer but just windows. Though once its programed it can be used with linux. Im thinking USB OTG plus this guy and you could control the tablet right from the steering wheel.
The solder will last fine on that job. The only thing I would be concerned about is getting false "presses" from the one lead that's soldered to the middle touching the outside ring. Perhaps just place a piece of electrical tape under it. Your other option might be to go straight from the connector the the flex plugs into. Just use a multimeter to test which pins you need to tap.
Thank you so much.
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just wanna thank the hell out of you. I have been searching and measuring that tiny little cable for about 2 hours now trying to find a connector and cable the right pitch/pins. Somehow the magical world of google brought me here. A site, despite my post numbers, I frequent very often. I'm installing the tablet in my car as well and I too needed a solution to the power button. Cant believe I didnt think to check here. You posted this just a few days ago. Crazy. Once again thank you. I should be able to pull this off no problem.
---------- Post added at 07:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------
Oh and by the way any issues with this so far? I dont imagine you have seeing as a switch on the to ends of the wire are doing exactly what the little foil button does. Just wanted to ask though before I commit to this in a couple of days.
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Being a USB fan, I'd try to see if a custom USB device could do the job.
Just recently I made a USB volume control for Windows.
It works on my Nook Touch too.
Omyn said:
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
dmexs said:
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted on the google music + external storage because i will be doing that soon aswell.
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
bitbang3r said:
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried this. I've just been using my externalized power button to wake the device from both warm and cold off states. I have a CNX-2140 power supply from my old car PC setup that has an ACPI pulse. I use this to wake the device from a warm sleep.
Thanks you XDA for being here. Just solved half of the problem my friend was having for his tablet . Mounting it in a 2006 Mustang. Now, Gotta see if he can use the POGO for charging and a USB OTG for the external camera
its help!! thanks!
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 AM ----------
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks