I got a vodafone branded wizard (VPAcII). The built in cam soft introduces rather strong and (most imporant) badly calculated sharpening to the pics. It causes artifacts which in fact deteriorates the pic's quality.
With my magician i usually turned down sharpening at all. There was a setting to do this in the cam's software (together with contrast, brightness etc). Such a setting is missing in my wizard's cam soft.
Do all wizards of all brands and ROM versions lack this option to set a value for sharpening?
If there is a cam soft which has this option: Could it be made public and posted, thus i could try to use it on my device?
If there is no cam soft for the wizard with such an option: Could sharpening be influences by a registry setting?
Thanks for any help!
Related
Has anyone managed to find a patch for the Wizard camera yet? The lighting on this camera sucks so bad. If the camera let more light in around dark places it would probably be an ok camera as the quality in light places looks pretty good.
Anybody got any news for me on this yet? Is pointless having the cam if it cant b fixed
I can tell you that in the camera > menu > adjust you can tweak all the settings (gamma, brightness, contrast) to your own preferences
does that help?
digital cameras (CCDs) are all poor and grainy in low light - it's pretty standard.
This camera is excellent compared to my old Treo 600!
Anyone knows if is possible to get pictures portrait orientated (at least when grabin' in add-to-contacts mode)? Because rotating each one is ***.
Here's the Camera-patch in T-mobile Ext-Rom.Don't know whether if it's useful for you...I didn't notice any difference.... :?
I currently have camera app Version 3.00 (Build 21246)
I see that the files this patch replaces are:
HTCcamera.dll
- my size: 17408
- patch size: 6560
OV9650.dll
- my size: 46080
- patch size: 38304
But I have no idea how to get the version of the camera app after this patch ( Edit: before installing it, that is ). The DLLs don't have any regular dll versioning information, and couldn't spot anything with a hex viewer.
I'll try and catch some shots with my current version and the patched version, of the same scene with varying levels of light, and see what the difference turns out being. Need to figure out how to get my Wizard stable on something first to get shots of said same scene
Replaced the camera - could spot no interface changes, About screen still shows the same version. The files are definitely replaced on the device, though - file sizes match the patch file's.
Results: nada. I *might* say that it may remove a bit of the yellow/green overcast in a brither picture. However, there was so much difference even inbetween 3 consecutive shots (Ambience set to Incandescent, so it's not an auto-whitebalance issue) that I can't really tell whether that was a fluke (as all the darker images have the same yellow/green overcast) or not.
Overall, the camera is pretty poor. There's a lot of noise, the shutter duration is fairly long (And even longer with Ambience set to 'night', which does boost values a good bit - to the point of showing hot pixels), and even in full bright light indoors, it's just too 'muddy'. It's fine for shooting the occasional picture, and decent for outdoor pictures (in sunlight) - but it's not about to replace any dedicated camera you may have. Compared to e.g. a S/E w800i, you'd think they ripped the camera component off of a 1995 $20 webcam.
Attached is a pretty small picture of the results - the full size picture, and original data, are available until I get tired of keeping them around, if anybody's really interested.
Top row is pre-patch, bottom row is post-patch. Left = full bright, Middle = Dark as the dimmer light would get, Right = Light off, Ambience set to Night.
Edit: All images in the attached picture are averages of 3 consecutive shots, to try and eliminate any inter-shot discrepancies. As a result, the noise levels are lower than in an individual shot, but the pictures a bit blurrier (couldn't keep the device 100% steady on the make-shift tripod). The images are indicatory for lighting response levels only.
Hi
Anyone else having a problem with picture distortion - worse in low light. This is on my jamin(latest official WWE) but my wife's Qtek s200 does not do this. It appears that horizontal lines occur on the screen and picture. No difference in cool camera, overclock or not.
Thanks
Sensor noise at low light levels is to be expected.
I don't think so--it happens outside too and not with the S200 (same shots)
Hi, I recently got a polaris and I'm loving (most of) it.
One thing I realy hate, is the way the fps goes way down with video's in low light conditions. I searched trough the registry myself and found some values to increase the fps of video's a bit, but the moment the light conditions change, it get's crappy again.
Is there some way to fix the light condition so it doesn't adjust while making a video?
I love going to parties and I'd like to make some video's. There is enough light there to make a video, but because of the strobing of the lights, the camera thinks there isn't any light and goes to crapy fps mode trying to...I don't even know why it does it, longer shutter timing maybe or something. So I want to find a way to fix the fps, light mode and shutter timing. If that is possible.
Or I would be hapy with any other info you guys can give me on this matter to improve the camera.
In case someone would like to change some camera settings:
HKLM\software\HTC\camera
In the recparam, you can set the framerate at witch the video records. It can handle a bit more then the default setting. The default is 15, I got mine set at 25 witch works fine. The display isn't able to keep up while recording, but the recording itself looks fine on the pc while playing back.
If anybody can help out more with tweaking the camera more, I'd love it!
I'm especialy looking for the light metering settings that change the fps when the light changes.
Clicky!
Welcome ^_^
cellshadow mean welcome to Camera & Graphic issues Polaris club
to get some information about it you can read this loooooong thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359991
any way, I will teach you a trick to get full performance from Camera and you can shot video if you have enough light
start camera, hide the lens by your hand, press the power button, wait for 5 or 8 sec, press the power button again, remove your hand from up the lens
now you can shot video in 25 frame/sec
if you get any new tweak or trick for camera please post here
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
XD
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
SuperJMN said:
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
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benleonheaert said:
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
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waiting for some one to analysis this trick to solve the camera issue
may be shutter speed, or white balance
Well I know a little bit about imaging and stuff.
Camera's have different ways to alter the amount of light in a recoring. They can change ISO values (higher value means more responsive to light) wich would not affect the shutter time.
The sensor in a camera (video or photo) needs a certain amount of light before it can register the image projected on it. The better the sensor, the higher quality and options. If you got a lesser quality, like in most cell phone camera's, you don't have to many options for changing the sensivity of the sensor. Meaning, if you want more light projected on your sensor in low light conditions, you need a higher shutter time. This is for both video and photo, the way the finer mechanics work differ, but a video is nothing more then a series of photo's put together. Now when the camera, or in our case, our lovely polaris, notices there isn't much light, it sets the shutter speed (for photo's) longer (that's why photo's in low light get blurry) and the fps (for video) lower (giving the sensor more time to register the light for each frame).
How the trick from secoseco works, I do not know, but it works like a charm. It has to be some sort of bug for it to work this way.
Now I know about the wm6.1 that is supposed to increase video preformance, I have not installed it yet. But the thing I want to fix is the way the camera measures the light and addapts to it. There are so many settings, there just has to be one that controls the way camera settings change in different light sircumstances. Because in good light, and with the trick of secoseco, the fps is just fine and the video is good quality. But the moment the light value gets lower, the fps drops waaay down and the video gets crapy. Wich isn't always needed, like at a party when there is enough strobing light to get a good video, but when the fps is still way down.
I want to either lock the fps, shutter time or disable the light measuring or any other thing that can cause the current proformance of video's in low light conditions.
I'll try looking for myself when I'm not working, but I'm new to this phone, so if people come across anything that can help, it would be great. Registry locations of stuff related to the camera, files that control the camera, anything.
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
hambola said:
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
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what is the benefit to point the camera to the light source during picturing ?
There is no benefit in intentionally pointing it at a light source. But if it so happens as you're trying to take a picture or video of something and you do happen to get too much light it will lag again.
Problem
I have problems with Send/Receive email client on me Polaris,not working. Internet connections is ok, help me pls. Sorry for me english.
Thanks secoseco
For real. Thanks secoseco. This trick really works
Wow this trick works like a charm! Many thanks goes to you secoseco!
I think it has something to do with whitebalance because changing it in low light conditions will give me some more fps... but it is still not enough for taking videos!
Too bad that the picture quality sometimes gets worse after using the trick.
Thanks a Million it workssssssssssssssssss..
I've just bought a Touch 3G and as far as I can tell the Auto setting for the Backlight doesn't seem to do anything. As my last phone (P3300) didn't have this, what should I be expecting to happen? I've tried putting a finger over what I think is the sensor (right hand "LED", beside speaker) and nothing changes.
Thanks, W.
Did you set Auto adjust backlight in system menu?
Imho it is a really subtle effect. You can see it a bit when holding the light sensor (right to the speaker) to a bright light source. The display then gets a little bit brighter.
If you would like to increase the effect or customize the stepping, try g-light ( http://www.ageye.de/index.php?s=glight/about ), it lets you set specific values for each reported value from the sensor, and set the polling interval
Jade auto adjust is poor
I had the diamond prior to purchasing the jade. The diamond auto light adjust was very noticeable compared to the jade. In fact I didn't think the Jade even had a light sensor until one of the other users pointed it out.
After a little research I found this thread. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=450318
I used it on my Jade and it works great. One of my problems with the diamond was the fact that the light would not automatically dim enough in low light conditions.
Thanks for the link. Now using G-Light which works pretty well. Not perfect as its sometimes a bit erratic but certainly makes better use of the light-sensor than HTC!
Hi All. I got a g6 last month, sent it back and got another one because it had a dust specle inside the lense glass.
Now in the new one I noticed something weird with manual mode in the camera thought you guys could help.
In low light I took 2 photos once in auto mode and once in manual mode.
Both with same iso, whitbalance auto, same shutter speeds. The image in manual mode comes out noisy and the one from auto is not much noisy. This happened all the times in tried with different subjects.
Is this how your phone works too? Or should i return this as well? Pls see attached images. I will really appreciate your comments. Thanks in advance.
sorry. bumping if anyone has any comments?
In manual mode: did you enable "noise reduction" in settings?
Manual mode itself is very noisy on my phone too. Noise reduction is always a software thing, that's why Pixel phones take such great pictures (because Google is good in software). Maybe try a port of the Google camera and compare the results for yourself.
hudl said:
In manual mode: did you enable "noise reduction" in settings?
Manual mode itself is very noisy on my phone too. Noise reduction is always a software thing, that's why Pixel phones take such great pictures (because Google is good in software). Maybe try a port of the Google camera and compare the results for yourself.
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Yes i eventually figured the noise reduction. But couldn't belive the noise when it's off.
Thanks for confirming its same in your phone too.
That is completely normal.
Lol, yeah. Totally normal. Manual mode outputs garbage, but it can be made absolutely glorious with software processing tools.
First image is simple raw -> jpg conversion with no processing.
Second image is raw -> jpg with simple photoshop raw filter processing