I walked into a desk with my Exec in my pocket and got a bit of a dent...assistance required please!
If you close the Exec, the grey panel in the middle which has the embossed O2 logo (and the speaker grill) has a slight dent in it.
I reckon if I could get at this 'from the other side', I could easily sort it out. How accessible is the backside of this panel and how do I get at it?
(Can I get parking proximity detectors fitted?!)
Related
hello to everybody!
i got my xda trion 2 weeks ago. after one week, it was impossible to bring the stylus into the xda. so i got a new one.
after again one week, the stylus wont come out of the trion.
someone else prob's with the stylus?
greetings
karl
+ 1, probleme like a wizard too
same ting happened with my TyTN today...
+1 with one week old tytn
Same here...
First I couldn't get it out / then I couldn't get it in / then it would simply slide in-and-out freely to the point that only gravity was holding it in place (sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is what happened).
Had to have mine replaced. I've heard this issue has been around since the Wizard...
I really hope I don't have the same problem on TyTn #2!!!
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
andmjones said:
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here TyTN 1 week old.
same here,
think I'll swap mine over for a new one.....
raptorian said:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here in 5 days
happend with me after 2 weeks. I've been struggling for a week, and now it's workng again! Don't know how long it will last. I hope it won't brake down, I bought Hermes thrue internetshop. Always sick to return things.
I carry something like this, and only use the tytn stylus in emergencies. I'm hoping this will reduce wear.
Same here - less than 2 weeks.
:shock:
Same here 5 days, luckley I had a replacment on order for BT problems recived that today lets see how this one goes.
me 2
my TYTN's stylus wouldn't stay in the hole.
i sent my tytn to be replaced (due to BT problems and screen alignment)
and i hope i t won't happen again.
when i put the tytn in the box to be sent so the stylus stopped falling :? )
that is odd
My stylus is a little difficult to remove at times, so I had a look down inside the stylus hole and it appears that there are three of those little pink rubber squares protruding from the side and a dark rubber 'socket' at the end to grip the tip when it's fully inserted. The pink squares are obviously there to provide a little more grip along the length of the stylus, but my guess is that even without them the 'socket' at the end would hold the stylus in place. I imagine that over time the pink rubber will either soften up or disintegrate entirely with the friction.
Solution stylus problem
I had the same problem with my stylus, my solution is take a Poster Buddy Brand name Pritt it is so called here in Holland you can place posters and photo's with it on wals, doors etc. looks like white rubber glue, think I see it in the UK with the name Sticky here you can buy it with photostores and bookstores etc. Take a small piece of it turn it between your vingers to a small ball and put it in the stylus hole after that push it to the end with your stylus.
After I do this I have no further problem with the stylus it works great.
Same issue here... the 2nd day I had it a small transparent square rubber went out of the stylus hole. Now i can put it in and out without problems...
Loose/Jammed Stylus
I'm afraid sending device back for replacement/repair for the stylus problem and loose locking keyboard may only be a temporary fix. Having had my device dismantled I can see exactly what the problesms are with both stylus and keyboard.
For the stylus there is a small block of clear plastic designed to create a friction lock to stop it falling out. There is luckily another small plastic spring lock at the far end so if the stylus is fully in it should click in and not drop out even without the plastic block. The problem is that the plastic block is not held firmly in its slot and as it gets loose creates far too much friction against the stylus which can then drag it right out.
The loose keyboards are due to the metal runners (that you see on back of keyboard partially springing apart (breaking tiny micro welds) at the ends where they lock (or not!) open and closed. These runners if they have sprung open like this will never lock firmly again unless you perform a bit of DIY.
I have performed small operations to fix both these problems and my Keyboard now locks very firmly both open and closed. The stylus issue is dealt with internally with a felt runner at a specific location. BEWARE of course performing these operations will invalidate your warranty. I can be much more specific for anyone who wishes to contact me directly particularly with the keyboard issue which requires quite a chore in dismantling the device - though I can now perform this in half an hour start to finish (Not something I'm proud of with a new device, but I had to workout just how to do the fixes!! )
Actually otherwise I think TYTN is great - superb in fact which is why I did not send it back for repair - couldn't bear to be without it!.
PS Finger around the screen method works every time for me forget all that align screen caper.
Mike
@mikechannon: Do you have high quality pictures of disassembled device where we can see the chipset references? we need to gather information on the hardware used inside the Hermes...
Really need help here,
My hermes suddenly decided that visuals are no longer needed.
That means the screens stays off all the time (yes even in bootloader mode).
It works, receive calls and flashes roms but in no situation can I see anything on the screen (pitch black screen).
I've got no warranty so I took it apart and checked each cable and connector - no issues were seen. I tried changing SPL-s, RUU, Roms all worked but left my tytn with that black screen.
Did anyone see this happen or has any advice?
This sucks big time :-(
No one? Oh man, I guess it's dead then :-(
Last bump before giving up and throwing it away - please?
send it to me if your gonna throw it away : - 0
I've given up on mine as well. It has white screen though. Where do I dump this thing?
If it is out of warrenty, I would take it apart as is sounds like the hardware, check the connections to the LCD. Does the backlight still work, or if you put it in strong sunlight, can you see the LCD working?
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
what are you guys willing to sell your pdas for? Mine fell in a puddle and i need one for parts. The white screen might be fixable the first couple of times but then it dies off for good, the black screen i've never heard of.
So if you want to sell for a reasonably cheap price let me know, i can buy a new keypad online for $50. So around there would be nice!
i.a.wright said:
My Hermes had a white screen also. I found that if I squeeze the bottom right hand corner whilst resetting it would sometimes work. It seems there is a chip on the switch board that needs the right ammount of pressure on it. I think it was a design flaw as the herm200 and 300 are different. If applying pressure works and you are confident enough take the hermes apart and put a couple of small pieces of plastic or paper between the front buttons and the small square chip on the switch board. This worked for me.
The service guide is available if you google. Let me know if you need more info.
As for the black screen that sounds more serious sorry not seen that one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tested this on mine and actually got some results.
mines the opposite though, it will NOT work with any pressure. I left all the screws loose for that board under the buttons, and left the LCD assemble screws out on that end and it works, But if I press the keys it whites out again and won't come back until I repeat the dis-assemble/re-assemble
I had a similar problem but this was after someone dropped mine on the floor. The screen would just be white screen, while everything worked. If I pressed the bottom right of the phone it would sometimes come on and stay on for a little while but would eventually always go to white screen.
I did manage to use the phone but had use a program called Net Control which allowed me to control the phone over WIFI with the phone screen shown on the PC. Got the phone replaced in the end by the people who dropped it.
i got the flex cable and my phone still has the white screen problem....wtf///
Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!
The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.
Hi,
I've recently changed the LCD panel on my Nexus 4, as well as the headphone jack (which includes the proximity sensor) - the screen was broken, and the headphone jack had very noisy output.
After putting it back together, I noticed that the proximity sensor wasn't working - during calls, it would constantly blank out the screen, and there was no way to unblank it (i.e. it seems to permanently think there's something there).
I took it apart again and noticed that the rubber gasket that fits behind the sensor is missing - it must have come off during the repair and gotten lost.
I tried putting some Blu-Tack behind it as a temporary fix, but no change. Now, I'm not so sure the new proximity sensor is working either.
Anyhow, my first question is, where can I buy a replacement rubber gasket? I've done a search online, and I can't seem to find it for sale anywhere?
Is it available as part of another spare part for the Nexus 4?
Cheers,
Victor
I had to replace the screen on my n4 too and fixing the proximity sensor was a pain in the ass. I had the rubber gasket but it was only working when the front panel was not attached as soon as i attached the front panel it stops working i.e. when in call the screen goes off but it doesn't come back on. So what the guy did was to scratch off the two holes on the top left from the inside of the panel. its looks a bit nasty but its working fine now. you might wana try to scratch off a bit neatly. like in a round shape.
I dont know if the gasket is the cause, but I know a case where this exact problem happens : its when u don't push the sensor well enough to fit in its place, cuz it should be near enough, or it'd blank the screen during calls. Try using a flat screw driver, and push the orange part where the sensors are well enough, that should do the work ( don't push haaard or I'll Damage it). I hope that'd help, cuz finding this gasket is hard. And this applies also for the guy who commented, cuz this is the case for him
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app
According to this post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/help/proximity-sensor-rubber-part-t2571396
the LG part number is MBL65457701
I managed to find an eBay seller selling it (original_parts_mobile_99):
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Goma-Sen...gle-Nexus-4-rubber-New-ORIGINAL-/181369205976
I used a small piece of credit card, drilled two holes with t3 screwdriver. Worked like a charm!!!!
Hi, I have problem with my N4 screen.
For some time I watching the display began to peel off the glass at the corners (right, and little bit in left).
The following photos showing the problem:
http://zapodaj.net/6d0be99783bcc.jpg.html
http://zapodaj.net/0793ae98b7edb.jpg.html
I am the first owner (purchased in March 2013 on Google Play UK) and I never open case. So this is not a problem of some poor repair of display, or purchased refurbished version.
Is there any possibility to repair without replacing the entire screen?
I think of two ways to repair:
- Heat the display (ie. hairdryer), try press the inner side of whole screen module to re-gluing layers between glass and the display
- Try to inject glue in the corners (maybe a syringe needle) and squeeze layers.
Anyone have idea how to fix it?