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Hello everyone i just registered cause i need your help
I havea mustang 2016 tesla screen it was working well
Then yesterday i could not press any button like change mode or change wheel mode or traction off or even ac off/on
The touch is working well except those buttons
I need your help guys and if you need any information just ask me
Hmo0odh said:
Hello everyone i just registered cause i need your help
I havea mustang 2016 tesla screen it was working well
Then yesterday i could not press any button like change mode or change wheel mode or traction off or even ac off/on
The touch is working well except those buttons
I need your help guys and if you need any information just ask me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually the person who brought the 2015+ Mustang Tesla-Style units en masse.
To fix your issue, try going to Settings > Advanced Settings > and try the code 8861. Once you're in there, you'll see "Mustang Hi" and "Mustang Low." Whichever one is selected, pick the other one, then shut off your car, open the door, and re-start. If it's still not working, go back in and select the one it was on previously and reboot again. (Be sure to open and close car door after shutting car off.)
If that doesn't fix the issue, ensure the cables that connect to the bottom of the screen are connected in the back. If they're connected, then you have a bad "HVAC Board" as they call it.
There's an entire thread dedicated to it here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75984
PatrickHenninger said:
I'm actually the person who brought the 2015+ Mustang Tesla-Style units en masse.
To fix your issue, try going to Settings > Advanced Settings > and try the code 8861. Once you're in there, you'll see "Mustang Hi" and "Mustang Low." Whichever one is selected, pick the other one, then shut off your car, open the door, and re-start. If it's still not working, go back in and select the one it was on previously and reboot again. (Be sure to open and close car door after shutting car off.)
If that doesn't fix the issue, ensure the cables that connect to the bottom of the screen are connected in the back. If they're connected, then you have a bad "HVAC Board" as they call it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your quick reply
Actually I tried to change from mustang hi to low and the opposite it didn't fixed but I will try the rest of solutions and reply again
Back up camera
Hey all I just installed the Tesla mustang s550 unit. Everything works except the rear camera. I thought it was just plug and play and I’m sure I connected the right camera wires together. However when I put it in reverse it says that there’s no input. Did I miss-connect it? I plugged the camera input wire into the factory camera view wire, they are both yellow. Is it supposed to go elsewhere???
Thisistaha said:
Hey all I just installed the Tesla mustang s550 unit. Everything works except the rear camera. I thought it was just plug and play and I’m sure I connected the right camera wires together. However when I put it in reverse it says that there’s no input. Did I miss-connect it? I plugged the camera input wire into the factory camera view wire, they are both yellow. Is it supposed to go elsewhere???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the male yellow RCA cable connected to the female yellow RCA cable?
"Toggle switches not working"
I thought my toggles switches weren't working, but it was just user error. I was pushing down on the toggles switches, put you need to lift them up until you hear the click. Hope this helps someone else, just as dumb as me.
Hi All,
I just got this unit from amazon. I have the quad core 2GB RAM 16GB ROM 10.1" version which came with Android 8.1. Installation was easy and the unit seems very nice and fast enough but when ever I try to open an app like spotify or youtube or even OBD apps the screen goes black with "DO NOT operate while driving" error. I tried installing a third party launcher and it caused this error every time I tried to go to the home screen. Google maps does not cause this issue.
I currently wired the rear cable to ground just in case wiring causing the issue but that did not help. Under the settings there is no option in the video section which would allow me to turn off this error. Overall the rom on this as is looks half baked missing bunch of options. I do not even have a system update option for me to flash a different firmware.
Any suggestions that could help me get rid of this annoying issue and use this unit properly?
Thank you all.
Seems nobody cares but I finally figured out the solution. Under settings>car options>about there is another settings button. If you select that and enter "8888" it will take you to the deep settings menu where in drive options you change "Break" to "0". This will get rid of this bug permanently.
Thanks in anyways.
I care
I just had the same exact problem with the same radio
thanks so much for taking the time to update your post!
Do you have anymore information on tips and tricks for this radio?
Hi, tried this on my mekede head unit, took a few minutes to figure out which menu to follow and the part to alter but it worked great. Awesome. Cheers
Eonon ga2168k
Good job on figuring it out... I went through this with the same exact head unit...
Let me expand on this "problem" a little further please...
So most head units now are more than just a radio/CD player ..specifically ones with DVD players (or ones that can play any video really) the manufacturers can be held liable for people getting into an accident while driving because they were watching a movie or had a movie playing (Cant fix stupid) on their head unit located on the dash (as well as it being illegal in most (if not all) states in the USA).
REAR DVD players are exempt from this because... well they are in the rear... and not in the driver's line of sight.
With that being said, one wire on the harness that came with this unit (wire #23 I think) is labeled " BRAKE CONTROL" - IF (a big IF here) EONON set this up like most other head unit manufacturers that make an in dash DVD/video display, this wire needs to be connected to the brake switch so that it receives a signal saying that the brake is "on" and the vehicle is not moving...therefore "SAFE" to operate this unit (watch a movie, video, make setting changes, brew you a cup of coffee, paint your nails etc etc etc......)
Because there is NO REALLY good diagram for wiring this to the brake switch... you are left with a guess as to how it is to be done. (Should just be a positive connection from parking brake to wire.... I think... I guess...)???
This brake safety feature has been in other units for years and a LOT of people negate this circuit (I wont list the ways... it's easy to figure out) I even know of some car installers that worked for a national electronic retail store that would "bypass" this circuit in the customer's cars.
I am glad Eonon put this programming control into the back end of the unit because I, (having installed a few radios in numerous vehicles I have owned) REALLY didnt want to go through the trouble of bypassing the circuit... so shutting it off, on The unit was just as well for me. 1 less wire to worry about.
Just go into the root menu as stated above, and select "BRAKE" then adjust to 0. This removes all enable/disable requirements for that circuit.
Great unit so far... wish Eonon would spend more time writing a more informative instruction manual.. and maybe hire an American or British to actually write the darn thing so people could understand it.
Hope this helps.
I have the same unit but I can't get the panel to light up. Anyone knows how to wire to the car to get the panel to light up?
syung61 said:
I have the same unit but I can't get the panel to light up. Anyone knows how to wire to the car to get the panel to light up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Panel as in the buttons not on the touch screen? (Ie power, volume up volume down )
Wire (I believe its orange or blue in color if my memory serves me well) regardless it has a tag on it that says "ILL" or ILLUM... that's for illumination. You need to figure out what wire in your car is for illumination for the stereo... if you cant, run a wire from your headlight switch that controls the parking light. USUALLY, there is a wire for the stereo to make it light up when the headlights are turned on. You just need to find it.
Wyatte Steel said:
Panel as in the buttons not on the touch screen? (Ie power, volume up volume down )
Wire (I believe its orange or blue in color if my memory serves me well) regardless it has a tag on it that says "ILL" or ILLUM... that's for illumination. You need to figure out what wire in your car is for illumination for the stereo... if you cant, run a wire from your headlight switch that controls the parking light. USUALLY, there is a wire for the stereo to make it light up when the headlights are turned on. You just need to find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep. In the Eonon harness, it's an Orange wire with a tag on it that says "ILL". just hook it to any wire that feeds your dash lights.
Dears,
anybody tried Eonon GA2178 - 10" Android 9 Head Unit?
I'm actually on Eonon GA2168K - 10" Android 8 Head Unit, it's a good device with minor problems.
Anytime developers fix a problem they introduce an other problem and there's no community support for MTK chipsets.
Because of this I'm evaluating the new Eonon GA2178, that is quite similar but based on Rockchip chipset.
Tks!
Brake setting
On my Ga2172 the brake setting shows open close or speed, so which is it to watch video on the move?
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
invertgoat said:
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
kramttocs said:
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since my OP I actually cut and fused the yellow wire on my harness out of the unit to a permanent 12v source on my fusebox. I then cut the red accessory wire on the head unit and connected it to the yellow wire on the harness. Kind od screwy and in reverse but I guess it makes sense as my old radio didn't need a permanent 12v. It was a simple on off thing.
Fingers crossed I haven't flattened my battery...
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Bondibiz said:
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
rigattoni said:
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Bondibiz said:
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check that the Cam is connected to the CAM-IN connector at the unit?
...and did you measure the voltage delivered to the cam?
Which car are you driving? Does it have LED back lights?
Does the cam deliver a picture if you connect it directly to +12V instead of using the back light?
Without measuring, there is no need to answer from your side. This is mandatory to step forward.
i have the same issue. reverse camera show during installation but after few hours no image. only can see the lines. i connect the rca to my tv.it show reverse image .
I already wrote it in another topic. You need to use search instead of a new topic.. I don't know which car and which head unit. I had a VW Golf 6 powered by the reversing light and there was interference, stripes across the image. There are suppressors for powering from the reversing light, also on AliExpress. But the better option is mine. I found a pin on my main unit directly for powering the backup camera, which has 12v when I put it in reverse. It works perfectly, without interference or problems. I have a Can-Bus system. I'll put the pin-out of my unit here. Maybe it will help you.
And what about the black image after putting it in reverse, either there is no 12v power supply for the camera, or the input for the camera is incorrect.. use the cinch Reverse Cam input, do not plug into the cinch Cam-in this it is used for the front camera. Another option is to set the main unit for the backup camera, maybe the system is NTSC and it is set to PAL, or vice versa, depending on where you come from. Another option is to set the input of the backup camera type AHD, and the camera is normal, SD, I I tried the AHD type (better quality) and the picture was black. Inform us.
I got some issued on my android car head unit. No video input, on reserse.
Usinf canbus cable pink for electricity.
Check the video here :
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
yanivos89 said:
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
rigattoni said:
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this are the cables that i have
yanivos89 said:
this are the cables that i have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a voltmeter or test light and measure the lines Battery, ACC and Ground.
Battery should have constant power and ACC should be powered if the ignition is on.
What is about the missing connection here?
yanivos89
To add the may be missing information:
You don´t feed the unit with any power. There is a connector with yellow and red line from both connectors, but you need to connect the one from the Quadlock to the head unit cable tree with the same colors. In the second picture I think there is an open connector for that.
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
yanivos89 said:
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that this connector does not fit your car
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seat ibiza 2016
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
rigattoni said:
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those connectors are taken from yanivos89 photos - left is harness from his SEAT, right is from his android head unit.
There is no way to connect 52pin quadlock to 40 pin quadlock, even if plug physically it can be connected, the pins inside simply dont match.
yanivos89 said:
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best you can do is contact seller and ask for new harness. You need 52 quadlock connector, similiar to rest of modern VW group cars
Volkswagen (2015-2020) WG8 Sensor-Screen Bluetooth Head Unit pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com
Additionaly you need to know that in your case everything is highly dependable on CANBUS decoder - harness from your car doesn't provide ACC signal to wake radio or signal for buttons illumination. It is solved via CAN signals.
Maybe CANBUS decoder also has to be replaced if wrong harness was sent.
Ahhh... didn´t see that.
You are right. In this case he has a wrong cable tree from Ali.
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
yanivos89 said:
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you told us, that you was aware that the unit does not fit your car, right?
Wasn´t that good your decision to buy a not matching unit, right? Makes it complicated to reconfigure that stuff.
In this case: I think you will have to pay for a harness and may be also for a new CAN box. Try to buy one from the seller, or:
You also can buy a harness for VW/Skoda/Seat and crimp it to the current harness.
In this case you need to follow the connection graph on the unit and compare this with a picture of the OEM connector. Should be found on Google. May be the CAN connector works, may be not. There are a lot of CAN boxes available for your car in combination with Chinese aftermarket radios.
Good luck!
I think your car is MQB platform and the radio is for PQ platform. 52pin qadlock to 40pin. Maybe a reduction will help you
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN4W48q
the harness of the 52 pins did solve my problem, thanks everyone for the help!