Trying to revive a Nook Glowlight 3

Trying to revive a Nook Glowlight 3 - Nook Touch General

Hello,
A long time ago I was using a Nook Glowlight 3. I had rooted it, installed relaunchX and a bunch of readers. Later I switched to Boox Air (for size) and did not use the Nook for a long time.
Recently my son showed interest in reading books from a tablet, and I thought Nook would be suitable for him. However, since it was rooted, it was a bit complicated for him to navigate, so I decided to return it to its original state. Here is what I did to end up where I am now. I will be happy to elaborate on any of these, but I do not want to make my initial post too long, so people will be less likely to skip it.
1. I did a factory reset (by pressing home button during reboot), but this somehow erased the Nook launcher (or maybe I had erased it before, I am almost it was working before). After this reset, upon a boot, I would get past basic setup (timezones and wi-fi) and then get a blank screen.
2. Then using 5taps L-R trick, I turned on USB debugging again and rooted it again.
3. I installed relaunchX and Renate's launcher, but I could not tie them to the home button. I did not know how (I still do not know). I could launch them with adb shell and monkey command though.
4. I tried to get into recovery mode or fastbook through adb (by using things like "adb reboot recovery"), but did not succeed.
5. I downloaded and put the update.zip for this Nook and put it on / as well as /sdcard/ directories. Put Nook to sleep and waited a long time, but no success there either.
6. I was getting frustrated at this point and finally did something really stupid: I unzipped update to a directory under sdcard, remounted various partitions rw and tried to copy all the files coming from update.zip via a cp command. After a short while this command ran, I received an error message, something like "/bin/sh permission denied" (I guess it was referring to execute permissions not being present, and got kicked out of adb shell.
7. Now, the machine is going into factory reset upon boot and after the factory reset it reboots and goes into factory reset again. I tried interrupting the reboot multiple times, pressed various button combinations during reboot, but there are only two outcomes: power off or going into factory reset.
Is there anything I can do? If you can think of a software solution, I'd love to hear it.
I am not good with hardware, and I don't have any equipment (in particular I do not have a UART) but I am faculty member in a physics department in a university, so I can probably access any reasonable electronics equipment. I am willing to do some hardware tinkering, or perhaps to call on a favor or two from some of my experimental colleagues.
I am willing to try pretty much anything since my son is asking if I repaired the Nook almost everyday, and I would like to be able to honestly say I tried everything.
Thanks in advance for any help you may provide.
cheers,
ato

Manually installing an update.zip is not difficult, but that's not how to do it.
If it's really in a loop that you can't break and there's no ADB then you'll have to get more drastic.
One way is to use a UART and interrupt u-boot while it's booting and going to fastboot. From there you can flash a recovery and go to it, do a manual update, maybe fix something that's broken.
Another way is to defeat the flash memory on boot so that it goes to the ROM bootloader. From there you can use my imxlink.exe to load a modified bootloader that will go directly to fastboot,
Either of those two ways requires you opening the case. The Glow3 is not as bad as the Glow2, it doesn't use tape.

Thank you for your response. I can definitely open the case. I found some instructions here:
Barnes And Noble Nook Glowlight 3 Disassembly
This is a disassembly Guide For the nook...
www.ifixit.com
that looks doable.
It sounds like your second suggestion does not require additional equipment (except to open the case). Did you describe elsewhere on this forum how to defeat the flash memory on boot? I have read so many of your postings here in the last few weeks (and I am very grateful for those). I am guessing this might be something you already described before.

I can also order a UART. Will a CP2102 unit w/ 3.3 and 5V be adequate? I just think having a serial connection is so cool that I need to try it.

Yeah, any USB UART will do.
OTOH, I'm a bit more of a fan of the FTDI than the CP2102. I did have problems with a driver years ago but haven't touched them since.
If you fall in love with UARTs and want to use them on something modern, you might need 1.8V
I think that these are pretty cool in having selectable logic level.
https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C5-Converter-Support/dp/B07WX2DSVB/
OTOH, anything will work for now.

I live in Turkey and that FTDI does not seem to be available here. I will keep your recommendation in mind though, thank you!
I ordered a CP2102. They had links to a driver on the order page, hopefully I will not have big problems. It should arrive in a few days.

I will try and open my glow3. Do I need to do anything special about the power? It is almost fully charged, so it would take a long time to drain the battery, but I can certainly try.

OK. I took a leap of faith and opened it up (I have a small window when my kids are sleeping), hopefully did not blow up anything.
Here is a photo in case it might help with someone looking to replace their nook glowlight 3 battery:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
If I need to tinker with J11, J12 or J13, I can tell that they are way beyond my soldering capabilities. Do I need to get some connectors?
Would more detailed pictures help?
cheers,
atakan

No, you don't need to solder unless you want to make it permanent.
Usually just sticking wires in holes and adding a bit of sideways pressure is enough to make good contact.
If you have those 0.025" gold pins (like on cable ends) they are a close fit to the hole and work great.
Do you have any resistors on hand? Maybe 100 ohms or so?
We can try to get you going before the UART arrives.

I do not have any resistors on hand, but I can pick some up in about an hour. I will do so.
Unfortunately I do not have any gold pins either, but i think I can find some 0.5mm cables, which are probably actually 0.025''.

I found some resistors including 100 ohms (but also 47, 1000 etc). I also found some cables that measure 3/128 inches, quite close to 0.025. I got my avometer and optician's screwdriver set
How should I proceed?
While waiting your reply, I will install the WinUSB driver from zadig, I am guessing I will need that.

Download from my sig imxlink.exe and nnglow3.img (Neo Noogie).
Get the attached ub3fb.img
Code:
C:\>imxlink.exe ub3fb.img nnglow3.img
Now connect from TP23 to your 100 ohm resistor to a ground on the board.
While doing that LONG press the power button.
As soon as Windows "bongs" or imxlink.exe reacts disconnect the resistor and sit back.
You might have to try it a few times. Windows might be slow the first time that it sees 15a2/0063 on USB.

Wow! Something happened. iMX Link is working and now saying waiting for Fastboot or ADB.
Before that, the red led for Bootloader was on briefly.
The screen is showing the nook image that it shows while starting to boot.

Mmm, do you have the drivers for fastboot already loaded?
Are you sure that it isn't in fastboot?
When you pull the USB cable and reinsert it does it go "bong"?
Check in devmgmt.msc with "Show all devices". Look for 18d1/d00d
Make sure that it has a driver.
It really should go Red - Yellow - Green.
If not, try doing it again.

I do not know what the drivers for fastboot are. How I check for them?
When I pull the cable it goes "bong", but not when I reinsert it, not upon further pulls.
I'll try again.

Well, if you never saw yellow, you don't have drivers or something.
Did you ever have fastboot working on your desktop?
It's the same "Google drivers" as for ADB.
If you see something with an exclamation mark in Device Manager (devmgmt.msc) that's it.
I know this stuff works because on my Glow3 I intentionally erased u-boot so that I could always reboot using imxlink.exe and get a direct choice of boot image.

No, I always used ADB on Linux before, and not on Windows, which it what I am using now.
It is trying to install i.mx6sl driver from windows update and failing.
I will look for this "Google drivers" for ADB

I installed the Google drivers. It now went to red, then yellow but not green.
It is now saying
Waiting for disconnect...
Waiting for ADB...

Quote the text please, I don't know what's going on.
What's the screen doing?
You probably need to install the drivers for ADB.
If your Linux system has ADB you should be able to plug it in now.

I am sorry, I am really a noob w/ Windows, I cannot even take a screenshot (I tried PrtSc button).
Here is the output:
C:\Users\ato\Downloads\renate>imxlink.exe ub3fb.img nnglow3.img
Waiting for bootloader or Fastboot or ADB...
Found iMX6SL
Load addr 87800400, DCD offset 002c, DCD size 0220
67 DCD ops processed
Write, addr 87800400, size 00039270
********************************************************************************
********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************
Jumping to 87800400
Device disconnected correctly
Waiting for Fastboot or ADB...
product i.mx6sl NTX Smart Device
version 0.5
Sending boot image, 6043648 bytes... ok
Waiting for disconnect...
Waiting for ADB...
I installed Google ADB drivers.
When I try to run ADB from Windows, for "adb devices -l" I get an empty list.
Should reboot into linux and try?

Related

[Q] Nexus 4, USB Debugging with a cracked screen

Right I have UK Nexus 4, running 4.2.2, Developer Mode is enabled, but USB Debugging is not, it is not rooted.
How can I enable USB Debugging mode, without wiping everything on the phone as I need to use a program called MoboRobo before I wipe the phone (I need to backup messages, bookmarks and contacts)
I can't see anything on the screen at all, so if you are able to help and tell me I need to boot into Recovery mode, then pick an option I need to know how many times to press up or down, this is purely as I can't see a single thing on the screen at all.
I've been trying to follow this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2177440
But I've no idea if that's correct for what I need to do (purely enable USB Debugging mode without wiping what's already on the phone)
Sorry if this has been covered, I've tried to search but the only thing that came close was a Nexus 7 where the user could still see the whole screen.

Ok first, let me ask a few questions.
1. Is your bootloader unlocked?
2. Do you have a custom recovery installed? If so, which one?
3. Will you have access to a working Nexus 4 in the near future? A replacement, a friend's, a family member's, a repaired version of your current phone, etc?

Johmama said:
Ok first, let me ask a few questions.
1. Is your bootloader unlocked?
2. Do you have a custom recovery installed? If so, which one?
3. Will you have access to a working Nexus 4 in the near future? A replacement, a friend's, a family member's, a repaired version of your current phone, etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1] No
2] No
3] No

JuicedToday said:
1] No
2] No
3] No
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, that's a tough one then. Do you have adb set up on your computer? If not, follow the instructions posted here.
Setting up ADB for our device:
Download the AndroidSDK onto your computer.
Note: Google changes their mind every other week as to if this will be distributed as a .zip or an .exe. If you get an .zip file, simply extract the contents to your C:\ drive. For an .exe install it like you would any other program, but set the path directly to the C:\ drive when the installer asks.
Or...you can use this page to download the "ADB for Dummies AIO App."
This will automatically install ADB for you to your C:\ directory. It's very very simple this way.
If your platform-tools folder doesn't have a fastboot.exe, place this fastboot.exe file in your C:\android-sdk-windows\platform-tools (or possibly simply called tools, if you set up ADB ages ago) folder.
Now you have ADB installed! Congratulations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I would boot into bootloader (Turn off device, then press volume down and power at the same time until it vibrates). Now, press volume down twice, then power button. It should vibrate. That'll boot your phone into recovery. Now set up the drivers:
Get the drivers:
Uninstall any previously attempted drivers if they don't work and move to the next.
Option One:
Navigate to the "Device Manager" (Control Panel > Device Manager) in Windows and Select the android device. Open the properties and select the "Install Driver" option. Pick the driver with "Install from disk." Ignore any warnings about the driver not being signed properly.
PDAnet's drivers may work if the above options don't. Simply install PDAnet (after uninstalling any previous attempted driver installations) to get the drivers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To verify your computer is seeing your phone and that you're in recovery, open a cmd window in the location of your platform-tools folder under the Android SDK location (fastest way is to shift+right-click a blank area in the folder in Windows Explorer, Open command window here). then type "adb devices", and it should pop up with a device number followed by "recovery". If you've gotten this far, there is still hope.
Now what you're going to do is use the "adb pull" command to pull the files from your phone onto your computer. I'll try to see if I can figure out the locations of the files you need. One question: What browser are you using (not yet sure if it makes a difference, but in case I find out it does)
By the way, after typing all of that I realized that if you're signed into your Google account, your contacts should be synced with your account in the cloud, you should be able to pull them down on a new phone if you sign back into your account on that new phone. Same with your bookmarks if you're using Chrome or the default AOSP browser. In any case, it won't sync SMS so I'll still try to find out where they're located.

Johmama said:
Hmm, that's a tough one then. Do you have adb set up on your computer? If not, follow the instructions posted here.
Now I would boot into bootloader (Turn off device, then press volume down and power at the same time until it vibrates). Now, press volume down twice, then power button. It should vibrate. That'll boot your phone into recovery. Now set up the drivers:
To verify your computer is seeing your phone and that you're in recovery, open a cmd window in the location of your platform-tools folder under the Android SDK location (fastest way is to shift+right-click a blank area in the folder in Windows Explorer, Open command window here). then type "adb devices", and it should pop up with a device number followed by "recovery". If you've gotten this far, there is still hope.
Now what you're going to do is use the "adb pull" command to pull the files from your phone onto your computer. I'll try to see if I can figure out the locations of the files you need. One question: What browser are you using (not yet sure if it makes a difference, but in case I find out it does)
By the way, after typing all of that I realized that if you're signed into your Google account, your contacts should be synced with your account in the cloud, you should be able to pull them down on a new phone if you sign back into your account on that new phone. Same with your bookmarks if you're using Chrome or the default AOSP browser. In any case, it won't sync SMS so I'll still try to find out where they're located.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Appreciate your efforts. I did as you instructed, and once I'd got to the "adb devices" I get nothing showing. As the picture shows.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I use firefox and chrome, and googlemail, but I've set them to not sync for personal reasons. All my contacts were saved directly to the phone. Messages I'm not too fussed about, but it would be nice to be able to view them, possibly back them up.
I've apparently unlocked the bootloader via the Nexus 4 Toolkit. I've no idea if that's worked or not though as I can't see the screen and I don't know how to test.

JuicedToday said:
Appreciate your efforts. I did as you instructed, and once I'd got to the "adb devices" I get nothing showing. As the picture shows.
I use firefox and chrome, and googlemail, but I've set them to not sync for personal reasons. All my contacts were saved directly to the phone. Messages I'm not too fussed about, but it would be nice to be able to view them, possibly back them up.
I've apparently unlocked the bootloader via the Nexus 4 Toolkit. I've no idea if that's worked or not though as I can't see the screen and I don't know how to test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, let's try eliminating possible reasons for your phone not showing up. Try re-entering recovery mode with the steps I provided above, in case it didn't work. I know this will sound stupid, but it's worked for me in the past: try switching which port on your computer that your USB cable is plugged in to. Try a different cable altogether if you have a spare. Oh, make sure you're using a USB 2.0 cable/plug. Sometimes MTP doesn't play nicely and you need to do weird things to get it working.
I've gathered a few database file locations that you might be interested in. I *think* they are correct anyway. I pulled them onto my computer but I can't try to view them right now, it'd have to be this weekend when I could get around to it, as I'm moving and I'd need to get settled first (Internet up and whatnot). I can still help you troubleshoot adb though.
SMS:
/data/data/com.android.providers.telephony/databases/mmssms.db
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Contacts
/data/data/com.android.providers.contacts/databases/contacts2.db
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Browser (I'm not exactly sure which browser)
/data/data/com.android.browser/databases/browser.db
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once adb is up and running, you'd use these commands to pull the .db file onto your computer:
Code:
adb pull /data/data/com.android.providers.telephony/databases/mmssms.db
Code:
adb pull /data/data/com.android.providers.contacts/databases/contacts2.db
Code:
adb pull /data/data/com.android.browser/databases/browser.db
Those would pull the .db files onto your computer inside of the platform-tools folder. Again, I'm not sure about this, and can't confirm till later in the weekend, but I think to view those on your computer you can download SQLite from here. More importantly, I assume you can just put those .db files into the proper folders on your new phone to restore them. You'd have to figure out the correct folder location depending on your new device, as the manufacturer or carrier sometimes switches them.

Still getting nothing showing under adb devices even after trying several USB ports with a couple of various data cables.
Think it's a lost cause! Guess I'll just have to plump for the screen when I can afford it. Or swap the screen over on my insurance replacement enable USB Debugging then swap the screen back.
Other option would be to sell my replacement, buy the screen and still have a few quid left over.. Choices choices!
Thanks for taking the time and effort though, appreciate it.

Just thought I'd give this one last try. The data at this point isn't of any concern. I need to wipe everything that is on the phone, if that means the OS as well, then that's fine.
Is there a way I can remove my apps, data, messages etc via USB cable without USB Debugging being enabled?
Thank you for your time.:good:

cracked scereen, tried command, debugging alreadfy enabled. says devivce offline. is that because i have no SIM in it>?

Johmama said:
Ok first, let me ask a few questions.
1. Is your bootloader unlocked?
2. Do you have a custom recovery installed? If so, which one?
3. Will you have access to a working Nexus 4 in the near future? A replacement, a friend's, a family member's, a repaired version of your current phone, etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same issue. Rooted with TWRP, which does NOT allow you to toggle through the recovery menu with the volume buttons.
After hours googling, I STILL have not found a way to wipe everything from my phone. I tried using the Android Device Manager to erase everything, but that didn't work.
Please, any help on what to do is so much appreciated. Thanks.

ji_mestone said:
I have this same issue. Rooted with TWRP, which does NOT allow you to toggle through the recovery menu with the volume buttons.
After hours googling, I STILL have not found a way to wipe everything from my phone. I tried using the Android Device Manager to erase everything, but that didn't work.
Please, any help on what to do is so much appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like you're hijacking this thread, but just because I'm currently fighting a similar situation...
you can download the recovery image for CWM at http://download2.clockworkmod.com/recoveries/recovery-clockwork-6.0.4.3-mako.img
and then reboot to bootloader, run "fastboot flash recovery cwm.img" (using the file you just downloaded, i usually just drag and drop onto cmd line)
That will get you the recovery installed that will be useful because you don't have to touch the screen.
After that, It's as simple as selecting wipe all. if you can't see the screen, then you'll have to do these steps (after installing CWM):
hold Vol- and Power until it turns off, then keep holding Vol- and push power again.
down, down, power - boots into recovery
down, down, power - gets you to wipe/factory reset page
down x 7, power - confirms wiping all data

HOWTO: rooted 5.0.3.1 to rooted 5.0.4, the fast method

unzip the following files onto micro-sd card:
http://download.zeroepoch.com/aftv2/5.0.4/boot.img.gz
http://download.zeroepoch.com/aftv2/5.0.4/lk.img.gz
http://download.zeroepoch.com/aftv2/5.0.4/preloader.img.gz
http://download.zeroepoch.com/aftv2/5.0.4/recovery.img.gz
http://download.zeroepoch.com/aftv2/5.0.4/system.root.img.gz
double check file hashes after transfer to micro-sd because micro-sd cards suck
open up an adb shell and run the following commands:
su
rm -rf /data/dalvik-cache/*
echo 0 > /sys/block/mmcblk0boot0/force_ro
dd if=/storage/sdcard1/preloader.img of=/dev/block/mmcblk0boot0
echo 1 > /sys/block/mmcblk0boot0/force_ro
dd if=/storage/sdcard1/lk.img of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/lk
dd if=/storage/sdcard1/recovery.img of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/recovery bs=1m
dd if=/storage/sdcard1/boot.img of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/boot bs=1m
dd if=/storage/sdcard1/system.root.img of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/system bs=1m
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wait 10 minutes or so after last dd command to help ensure cached data is written, or better yet:
zeroepoch said:
<snip> backup the sync program to /data/local/tmp or run the busybox sync applet. I'd say if you don't understand what that means it's probably not for you. There is always the 2 week method to recover so the device is not a complete brick just very annoying to recover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
after you're all done with your 10 minute or so wait, or have run your backed up sync pull the power and restart your device.
this is only for brave people or experts right now.
1 reported brick so far, so I guess don't do this unless you're insane like me

Is this working via LAN ADB? Or better use USB ADB?
Can anybody confirm this process? Since my aftv is unrooted again, I have to root it first before I can try this.

i did it via ethernet. actually, part of the reason i attempted this method is because i left my usb a to a cable at a friend's house.
since you're not rooted though, i fail to see how this will be of any use to you....

Sounds like a funny wilde ride
What is the echo 0 and 1 for?

make the preloader writable, then set it back to read-only

My aftv is just in the rooting process

So this is using adb shell. Is this based on a Linux OS or Windows? I have rooted many android devices, but not the Amazon fire.

use whatever OS you like. use whatever adb connection you like. make the files available to your ftv2 however you like, but in that case make sure to modify the dd arguments appropriately. you can even use magic if you like. this is OS agnostic. if you can put files on a micro-sd card and open an adb shell to your rooted ftv2, you can do this.

rester555 said:
So this is using adb shell. Is this based on a Linux OS or Windows? I have rooted many android devices, but not the Amazon fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did it on Windows 10 through cmd prompt. But, I currently have an issue to where after I unplugged the power, plugged it back in, it's not turning on.

did you let the last dd command finish? that's the big one and it takes a bit for it to write. i did it from win 10 as well, last command should look something like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Nope, the instructions didn't say "sync", "reboot" or "1s".
So now what? It's plugged in usb-usb on my laptop, I keep hearing it connect and disconnect every like 15 seconds.

"of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/system bs=1m" is the tail end of the last dd command, you can see the output that it should give you.
did you see that output?
if you're bricked you're probably looking at 2 weeks of writing a new system partition 512 bytes at a time. that's the only method i can think of right now :/
you would basically do the zeroepoch thing, but instead of patches you'd write the whole thing.

xenoglyph said:
"of=/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/system bs=1m" is the tail end of the last dd command, you can see the output that it should give you.
did you see that output?
if you're bricked you're probably looking at 2 weeks of writing a new system partition 512 bytes at a time. that's the only method i can think of right now :/
you would basically do the zeroepoch thing, but instead of patches you'd write the whole thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I followed it. I entered that command, once it transferred, I unplugged the power and plugged it back in.
So, basically my 3 day old AFTV is bricked and might as well buy a new one?

edit: just read your description of the boot process
it might theoretically be a fairly quick fix if boot partition just needs repairing, for example. if you're interested i'll try putting together a diagnostic tool based on the existing python code being used for rooting right now. if you're willing to test and report back results let me know and i'll start working on it.

dinggus said:
Yeah, I followed it. I entered that command, once it transferred, I unplugged the power and plugged it back in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you hash check the files after you copied them to the SD-card?

xenoglyph said:
did you let the last dd command finish? that's the big one and it takes a bit for it to write. i did it from win 10 as well, last command should look something like this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I added a sync after the dd to stock in my guide now so it has time to flush. Probably same applies here. BTW this exact procedure would be my best guess at how to do it using dd. I didn't even think about clearing dalvik but totally makes sense.

so is this method safe?? Atm I´m not sure if it´s worth it.
Don´t want to brick my device.

Xedos9er said:
so is this method safe?? Atm I´m not sure if it´s worth it.
Don´t want to brick my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The theory behind it all makes sense and @xenoglyph has been able to do it himself successfully so there is some proof that it works. My best guess going from root to stock is that after dd finishes you need maybe 30sec to a minute if you run sync after for it to flush. Although that's between similar images. The sync command no longer works because it's been moved to a new location where with root to stock it's in the same location. You could try running sync first before starting the dd to maybe cache it but that's kind of risky as well. Better would be to copy the sync program to /data/local/tmp so you can run it after the dd is complete. That is likely my best guess why it's broken, it hasn't flushed yet. If that's true maybe using the full flash method would work better starting from the back going forward since the first part might be written already. Though I don't think I'll have time myself to add this option.
If you're willing to live fast and furious then in theory these commands should work and it changes all the necessary partitions. If you do, make sure you wait a few minutes after the system dd command finishes for it to flush to the device. Maybe even 10 minutes to be safe. A bit more explicit would be to backup the sync program to /data/local/tmp or run the busybox sync applet. I'd say if you don't understand what that means it's probably not for you. There is always the 2 week method to recover so the device is not a complete brick just very annoying to recover.

xenoglyph said:
edit: just read your description of the boot process
it might theoretically be a fairly quick fix if boot partition just needs repairing, for example. if you're interested i'll try putting together a diagnostic tool based on the existing python code being used for rooting right now. if you're willing to test and report back results let me know and i'll start working on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At this point I'll try anything to get the device working again. I can't even connect via adb she'll as it doesn't see the device anymore.
krawhitham said:
Did you hash check the files after you copied them to the SD-card?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
zeroepoch said:
The theory behind it all makes sense and @xenoglyph has been able to do it himself successfully so there is some proof that it works. My best guess going from root to stock is that after dd finishes you need maybe 30sec to a minute if you run sync after for it to flush. Although that's between similar images. The sync command no longer works because it's been moved to a new location where with root to stock it's in the same location. You could try running sync first before starting the dd to maybe cache it but that's kind of risky as well. Better would be to copy the sync program to /data/local/tmp so you can run it after the dd is complete. That is likely my best guess why it's broken, it hasn't flushed yet. If that's true maybe using the full flash method would work better starting from the back going forward since the first part might be written already. Though I don't think I'll have time myself to add this option.
If you're willing to live fast and furious then in theory these commands should work and it changes all the necessary partitions. If you do, make sure you wait a few minutes after the system dd command finishes for it to flush to the device. Maybe even 10 minutes to be safe. A bit more explicit would be to backup the sync program to /data/local/tmp or run the busybox sync applet. I'd say if you don't understand what that means it's probably not for you. There is always the 2 week method to recover so the device is not a complete brick just very annoying to recover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the 2 week method?

Help! i am not a linux expert!
Do i have to copy and paste all the commands in the Quote at once? (copy and paste of all block) or i have to copy and paste and run line after line (from the Quote) in my command terminal window?

Klyde KD-1280 tesla Headunit

This is the motherboard and coreboard from Klyde KD-1280 Tesla headunit in case someone wants to know.
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Anyone has any information on how to root this unit, please let me know.

Does anyone know what are these connectors for?

Hello,
can you also take a photo without a heat sink?

The heat sink was glued down, so I did not want to take the risk to remove it.
Toto1365 said:
Hello,
can you also take a photo without a heat sink?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Took mine apart
Toto1365 said:
Hello,
can you also take a photo without a heat sink?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The heat sink lifted off easily. Its an RK3399 as suspected.
imgshare.io/image/img-20191224-130838.0lp04
The unit is not being detected when plugged in to a laptop with rk3399 drivers installed. No SDcard slot. No USB on the board.
I have a TWRP.img for rk3399, how would I go about flashing it?
The unit does accept a USB flash drive with a px6_update.zip file.
Anyone knows a way to convert .img to a .zip? Tried making one, fails on zip verification. Not sure how to sign the zip properly. Thanks!

Recovery info
Also I've been able to get into recovery using ADB Shellkit app from the play store.
imgshare.io/image/0lvZS
imgshare.io/image/0lWzj
Trying to flash TWRP for rk3399, so far no luck
Because there is no SDcard slot, cannot apply update from SD.
Cannot apply from ADB either as the unit is not being detected from all 3 usb ports for some reason.
Going to try a different laptop and cable now.

Thanks. Right now I'm trying to find out what those connectors are for on the coreboard. Wonder if they enable other features for the head unit.

Connectors
After some research and in comparison to other rk3399 boards I would guess they would be either camera, sdcard, or usb OTG - ribbon expansion board connections. The bigger (longer) one is possibly a video bus.
I will bluntly ask KLYDE if they can sell me the expansion boards. I've had some luck dealing with them in the past... I am very curious too, but in the end I am just interested in rooting it and possibly designing a custom ROM afterwards.

Dr0idFanatic said:
After some research and in comparison to other rk3399 boards I would guess they would be either camera, sdcard, or usb OTG - ribbon expansion board connections. The bigger (longer) one is possibly a video bus.
I will bluntly ask KLYDE if they can sell me the expansion boards. I've had some luck dealing with them in the past... I am very curious too, but in the end I am just interested in rooting it and possibly designing a custom ROM afterwards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep I'm guessing the same thing. They have option to add HDMI out for less than $10, so I think one of those connection will enable that.
Also, I got the PX6.zip update from Klyde, and it worked. If you want it to take a look at how they sign the zip file, let me know. I will upload, so you can download it.

JohnnyMHo said:
Does anyone know what are these connectors for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can help: the connector on your right picture is used for the HDMI connection:
And if somebody needs an additional USB connection: there are -2- USB connections located on the mainboard. I noticed it while comparing your picture with mine. So I found that the USB connection (on your board) is different like on my board. After a small research I learned that the USB port has -4- connections to offer. So I soldered an old USB cable to that connector and now I have an "internal" ssd connected. I'm worried about the total power consumption when I use all 4 connections so I would like to ask: perhaps it's better to "install" a self powered (12V) USB port on that connection???
What do you think?

Confirmed working
I've soldered on the extra USB and connected to my phone, then ran Android Auto through that port. Works. Very good idea to use the port for an "internal SSD".
I also was hoping ADB would connect through it, but no go.
---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 PM ----------
Also had lots of time to mess around with the unit.
-ADB through USB is broken, not seeing device.
-Fastboot works but flashing is locked. "Fastboot OEM unlock" returns OKAY, but tried flashing twrp_rk3399.img file and says locked.
-Got the rockchip firmware update windows app to work, however the partition tables are different.
-Finally got root access via ADB over WIFI !!!
-Also backed up recovery partition using dd, then tried writing twrp_rk3399.img with dd only to get a boot loop on booting into recovery. Restored original recovery with dd without an issue. I am guessing either I'm doing something wrong, or more likely TWRP_rk3309_3.0.2 does not work for this unit, as it came from a tv box with the same chip...
-Now that I know I can backup all the partitions, I will try loading supersu.

Sounds promising...
That would be cool if you are able to get a working root on the device! Looking forward for any (positive) development...

Success rooting the thing
Syncronisator said:
That would be cool if you are able to get a working root on the device! Looking forward for any (positive) development...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-After a few more hours of mocking around I've rooted it. (Credit goes to someone else as I followed a guide for a different unit with some slight variation).
-I will write up a step by step guide when I have some spare time again.
-Shortly after I bootlooped it by updating the SU binary, I know how to fix it luckily. Root works though, just an annoying "update su binary" every time you open the superuser app.
One step forward, two steps back. Progress never the less.

Super SU...
is perhaps a door opener.
Unfortunately the last version is 2.82 and no more development.
Wouldn't it better to use Magisk Manager instead? ( I'm no programming guy so this is a simple qestion from a noob)
The two additional connectors I would say (after researching in specs and data sheets of other RK3399) are MIPI connectors/interfaces???

Syncronisator said:
is perhaps a door opener.
Unfortunately the last version is 2.82 and no more development.
Wouldn't it better to use Magisk Manager instead? ( I'm no programming guy so this is a simple qestion from a noob)
The two additional connectors I would say (after researching in specs and data sheets of other RK3399) are MIPI connectors/interfaces???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried magisk. Does not work, gives "unknown boot partition" error while installing. What worked is supersu 2.82B. The rooting method I will post in the next few days. Just dont update the supersu binary after, it will bootloop. It will nag every time you open the the supersu app, but otherwise will work.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
So when I messed up and updated the super su binary it bootlooped on me. Then I had a problem updating it with px6_format.zip, the update process did not want to start. I was pretty desparate at that point and did some research on how to get my unit working again. Then I messed up further by erasing the loader entirely. At that point just had a blank screen.
So I figured out how to reflash the loader, and get the px6_format.zip loading again.
In the process of recovering my unit I figured out a few hardware things as well:
1. I've soldered two wires to key down points on the board, when held on boot takes you to the unit recovery.
2. I've removed the OTG resistor in hopes of getting ADB to work via a USB cable, but that did not change anything. ADB & Fastboot still does not work. No need to remove the resistor.
3. The original recovery that came with the unit is useless as nothing worked in it. However after installing the latest px6_format.zip it finally has a useful "Apply update from USB card" function

Started a new thread with rooting instructions:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...to-root-klyde-kd-1280-tesla-headunit-t4035039
Good luck, have fun and DO NOT update the SuperSU binarý afterwards.

Dr0idFanatic said:
Started a new thread with rooting instructions:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...to-root-klyde-kd-1280-tesla-headunit-t4035039
Good luck, have fun and DO NOT update the SuperSU binarý afterwards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try my best but this have to wait 2 weeks when I will be at home... I will report instantly

That is exactly what I think. The problem is you have to get that expansion HDMI board. I cannot find it any where.
Trying to talk to Klyde support to see if I can buy it from them. Still waiting for them to reply.
Syncronisator said:
I can help: the connector on your right picture is used for the HDMI connection:
And if somebody needs an additional USB connection: there are -2- USB connections located on the mainboard. I noticed it while comparing your picture with mine. So I found that the USB connection (on your board) is different like on my board. After a small research I learned that the USB port has -4- connections to offer. So I soldered an old USB cable to that connector and now I have an "internal" ssd connected. I'm worried about the total power consumption when I use all 4 connections so I would like to ask: perhaps it's better to "install" a self powered (12V) USB port on that connection???
What do you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hello. I appeal to the owners of the device. Help me figure out the standby mode in the radio. Found only a short dream in the settings. But there is no full-fledged standby mode. Maybe I didn’t just see. In the previous MTCE PX5 device, the sleep settings were 10min, 30min, 2 hours and Auto. If someone figured out write how to configure?
---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------
If anyone needs it, here is an update for the system. Received recently from the seller.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gXU13McO7XdTEMxOncy5pyW-5-OI1bF0/view?usp=sharing
To update, copy the file to the USB flash drive, the default format is Fat32. Insert the flash drive into any of the USB inputs and reboot the device. The update will start automatically. After the update is completed, you will be prompted to remove the USB; After removing the USB flash drive, the update is completed.

There is no option for that with the current ROM for the device. Hope we can see some custom ROM soon for this device, since someone already found the way to root it.
sun.valeo said:
Hello. I appeal to the owners of the device. Help me figure out the standby mode in the radio. Found only a short dream in the settings. But there is no full-fledged standby mode. Maybe I didn’t just see. In the previous MTCE PX5 device, the sleep settings were 10min, 30min, 2 hours and Auto. If someone figured out write how to configure?
---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------
If anyone needs it, here is an update for the system. Received recently from the seller.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gXU13McO7XdTEMxOncy5pyW-5-OI1bF0/view?usp=sharing
To update, copy the file to the USB flash drive, the default format is Fat32. Insert the flash drive into any of the USB inputs and reboot the device. The update will start automatically. After the update is completed, you will be prompted to remove the USB; After removing the USB flash drive, the update is completed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

ATOTO S8 - System Contents

I spent the better part of 4 hours today setting up the connection between my new ATOTO S8 Pro and my laptop. After getting USB debugging working, and a functional adb shell, I pulled off everything that I could copy with the limited permissions I had.
To be clear, I have NOT rooted the headunit. I'm a little leery about doing it, as I don't want to break anything, and as of right now, there is no way to restore the headunit back to factory like you would with, say, a Pixel phone.
BUT, for those of you who are curious here is my compressed system dump (or rather, adb pull) of everything I could get my hands on while in a factory state.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13llpDmcNc5pyKbOIePn1hdDYxXd5iPeP/view?usp=sharing
INTERESTING TIDBITS:
* There is a "fastboot mode". Accessed by the usual "adb reboot fastboot" (still seeing what I can do with it)
* After around 6m 30s, fastboot mode will automatically reboot the unit back into the OS. Fastboot activity MAY reset the idle timer, not sure yet.
* There is NO "recovery mode". "adb reboot recovery" simply reboots the unit. May or may not be a recovery like most phones. Still digging.
* Seems the bootloader is unlockable. I have not done it though. You can activate the "bootloader unlock" option in developer options.
* To access Developer Options, you do the usual button mashing on "About", but to access the actual menu, you need a play store program that will take you directly to it.
* The ONLY USB connection that USB debugging works on is USB1 --> Phone Link. For it to work, you need to change the "computer connection" to whatever the SECOND option is (I'm not translating it)
* File down the very end, outer part of the wire harness clip, and it will go in all the way and latch like it's supposed it. Just needs to clear the casing by 1/16" or less. EASY FIX!
If I find any more interesting things while I have this, I'll update the information here. If YOU decide to root yours, let me know how it goes. I don't have another $340 to spare to buy another one. I'm poor. lol

Subscribed. Thanks for reporting that adb can be done via the second usb connection menu option. I had given up not long ago but changed that last night and it did the trick.

kramttocs said:
Subscribed. Thanks for reporting that adb can be done via the second usb connection menu option. I had given up not long ago but changed that last night and it did the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was like the second thing I tried.
Doing some more probing in a few minutes. Going to see if there is a recovery mode that can be accessed.
So it looks like, if I'm reading things right, there is no root for Oreo using a "One-Click" method. I would have to have access to TWRP, CWM recovery, or something to flash SuperSU. Unless I'm forgetting a method....

When it comes to rooting, I am a consumer so excuse my ignorance. In the file dump does it have the boot.img? If so, is this anything helpful: https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software-hacking/root-recovery-root-device-magisk-t3779454 ?

Silly/stupid question. I just connected my S8 Ultra up to my car this weekend. Do you use a double-ended USB-A to USB-A cable to connect to use ADB? Or is there another connection that I missed?

JMeister234 said:
Silly/stupid question. I just connected my S8 Ultra up to my car this weekend. Do you use a double-ended USB-A to USB-A cable to connect to use ADB? Or is there another connection that I missed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a usb A to usb C as my laptop had the C port. I tried a usb A male to male adapter and that didn't work but it may have been the adapter. A true A to A male cable may work. Just make sure you change the usb setting in the menu of Developer tools.

If you don't know this already, you can access OEM settings on the ATOTO unit this way:
Settings>System, click this option four times continually>input 3368, you will enter into the OEM Settings
It did work for me. I eliminated the split screen view on the back up camera through this hidden menu.
BTW, I was able to get to developer's options without a separate app and interestingly my unit came with developer's options already turned on.
It is also not a guarantee that you can unlock the bootloader just because the option appears in developer's mode. These units use a very customized version of Android & it seems some things are still in the settings, but only cosmetically, they don't actually do anything.

We you or anyone able to root this device?
buffaloquinn said:
If you don't know this already, you can access OEM settings on the ATOTO unit this way:
Settings>System, click this option four times continually>input 3368, you will enter into the OEM Settings
It did work for me. I eliminated the split screen view on the back up camera through this hidden menu.
BTW, I was able to get to developer's options without a separate app and interestingly my unit came with developer's options already turned on.
It is also not a guarantee that you can unlock the bootloader just because the option appears in developer's mode. These units use a very customized version of Android & it seems some things are still in the settings, but only cosmetically, they don't actually do anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

afoarun said:
We you or anyone able to root this device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know, no one has rooted this device. Having bricked a much cheaper unit attempting root, I'm reluctant to be the first one to try on this one.

buffaloquinn said:
As far as I know, no one has rooted this device. Having bricked a much cheaper unit attempting root, I'm reluctant to be the first one to try on this one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This might help.
System-Update-only-Applicable-to-S8-Ultra-Model-CA.zip
Shared with Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Someone else has a firmware for S8 pro. So if you run I to problems you can at least reset back to an unbricked state, maybe. Haven't tried it yet. But I hope to use Magisck so I can get Kali Hunter to be installed.

JMeister234 said:
This might help.
System-Update-only-Applicable-to-S8-Ultra-Model-CA.zip
Shared with Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Someone else has a firmware for S8 pro. So if you run I to problems you can at least reset back to an unbricked state, maybe. Haven't tried it yet. But I hope to use Magisck so I can get Kali Hunter to be installed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an S8 Premium with the floating 10 inch screen. I'd have to be damn sure the firmware was an exact match before I'd attempt it.

buffaloquinn said:
I have an S8 Premium with the floating 10 inch screen. I'd have to be damn sure the firmware was an exact match before I'd attempt it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This guy has the Atoto S8 Pro zip file.
PasadenaTX
forum.xda-developers.com
I can't get adb to work yet so that's all that's stopping me
Atoto just gave it to me when I told them my touchscreen didn't work and I only had a Bluetooth mouse at home...

kramttocs said:
Subscribed. Thanks for reporting that adb can be done via the second usb connection menu option. I had given up not long ago but changed that last night and it did the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually don't see the USB debugging options in the developer options. I did the 3368 thing but nothing in that menu looks anything close to USB debugging, ie same as my phone.
Without that, I don't know how to adb shell into the unit.

JMeister234 said:
I actually don't see the USB debugging options in the developer options. I did the 3368 thing but nothing in that menu looks anything close to USB debugging, ie same as my phone.
Without that, I don't know how to adb shell into the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to check later but I believe it was from the top right 3 dot menu.

kramttocs said:
I'll have to check later but I believe it was from the top right 3 dot menu.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I can confirm that I flashed/updated the S8 Ultra using the Dropbox zip file above and after it reset Android, it did nothing but reset my google credentials. My apps were still there.
But it also didn't brick my S8 Ultra .
It has the similar files as the Joying zip file which has the same chipset.
After the flash, my phone asked to authorize the adb debugging, while connected to the head unit. I'll see if I can get the head unit to turn on adb debugging so I can root it.

JMeister234 said:
Without pics it didn't happen...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Another?
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JMeister234 said:
1. I can confirm that I flashed/updated the S8 Ultra using the Dropbox zip file above and after it reset Android, it did nothing but reset my google credentials. My apps were still there.
But it also didn't brick my S8 Ultra .
It has the similar files as the Joying zip file which has the same chipset.
After the flash, my phone asked to authorize the adb debugging, while connected to the head unit. I'll see if I can get the head unit to turn on adb debugging so I can root it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any new developments?

buffaloquinn said:
Any new developments?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I brought my Ouya back from the dead with LineageOS, converted a Chromebook to GalliumOS for pen testing, or it can connect to Ouyas using adb, or analyze a Lenovo Smartclock to try and add APK's to it before giving up (as others on XDA have also done).
But for this? I can't get ADB to see the head unit. Because there is no ADB Debugging in any of the menus (yes its has Dev Options enabled). No idea how others have done it. If I reboot into Recovery it might show up in "adb devices" command but if the device is simply on, there's nothing returned.

JMeister234 said:
Well I brought my Ouya back from the dead with LineageOS, converted a Chromebook to GalliumOS for pen testing, or it can connect to Ouyas using adb, or analyze a Lenovo Smartclock to try and add APK's to it before giving up (as others on XDA have also done).
But for this? I can't get ADB to see the head unit. Because there is no ADB Debugging in any of the menus (yes its has Dev Options enabled). No idea how others have done it. If I reboot into Recovery it might show up in "adb devices" command but if the device is simply on, there's nothing returned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use one of the Play Store apps to get into Developer options and it does show an ADB debugging option and most of the other choices available in a typical Developer's menu. The one I use is the first one that comes up in the search on play store, I think the author is Singlebyte.

Brand new UIS8762 qled 6gb 128gb 8core never started, and no support from Witson

Hi,
I've been googling and searching here and on Youtube for three weeks and I can't find any help.
My brand new head unit doesn't start, and has never started. The touch buttons don't work so after hours and days seaching the web I found out that I could at least get it to the boot logo by pushing a pin into the reset hole for 10 seconds, another short push and then a third push for 5 seconds, but that's about it.
Sometimes when I do that I get to a "no command" screen and then nothing.
When I contacted Witson who sold it to me, they sent me a file to install, but the problem is that the update stops (around 80-90%) and reboots before it's finished. After 3 restarts/reboots of the update it just goes black again. After sending several photos and videos to Witson of what's going on I asked for a refund and then they just stopped answering me. Nice, huh. (And I've followed their instructions to push the reset button when the boot logo appears - let it reboot - push the reset button when the boot logo appears - let it reboot - push the reset button when the boot logo appears.
So now I'm stuck here with a head unit that's never been used. Could there be a chance that they sent me the wrong update perhaps? I'm not used to head units but I've tried many things to solve it. I can't get into recovery mode, god knows I've tried for days with maaaany different tricks picked up on the web. I've even opened it up and tried to reset by short circuiting the special poles people say you should do. Nothing helps. I've tried to figure out what other brand sells these to find another file to install, and so far I've tried at least 10 different files, both USB contacts and three different USB FAT32 sticks, but no difference. Boot loop is the only thing this head unit is capable of.
If anyony could kindly assist me it would be extremely appreciated.
I'll try to post some pictures for you. I don't even know the proper name of this thing.
It's supposed to be a Witson DHG (W2-DHX1001) with Android 12, , but it seems to have many names. As I said, it's never started up properly and I've never played with a device like this before.
Many thanks!
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This looks like a UIS 7862 FYT unit. DO the files they sent include a lsec6315update and a 6315_1.zip?
Normally, when the update fails you will get a message in red about the failure and the unit will reboot after 5 minutes or so, yours just reboots?
Anyway, if you got the unit from Aliexpress the safest thing would be to open a dispute with them.

Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
Thanks, I'm not by the computer right now but they sent me a 2,1gb zip-file with a zipped 6315 file name in it. (Does that make sense? ) Not sure if both those files was in that package, but one of them was.
I can't recall the exact name right now. But they just wrote that I should unzip the big file as is onto a USB stick and do as described earlier.
There was no red alert text when I used the file. Only reboot after reboot at around midnight 80% install. (One of the other files I downloaded later from the web showed that red failure text)
I did open a dispute and was reimbursed $160 of the $400 I spent in total. So here I am $240 down and a piece of glass.
Would be fantastic if someone has a file that fits this head unit or someone knows if there's a possibility that the main board or something else is broken.
Cheers

You definitely have a FYT unit.
There is plenty of info on this unit in this thread.

m00n61 said:
You definitely have a FYT unit.
There is plenty of info on this unit in this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check it out. Much appreciated.

m00n61 said:
You definitely have a FYT unit.
There is plenty of info on this unit in this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, yes I recognize that thread. Been reading a lot in it but I couldn't make anything out of it in relation to my unit. I guess I have to give it another go and see if I can make anything out of it now when I know it's a FYT unit, thanks.

Short version:
Get a FAT32-formatted USB stick, good quality. Bad USBs may cause setup to abort.
Copy the firmware files (minimum: config.txt, 6315_1.zip, lsec6315update and updatecfg.txt) to the stick.
updatecfg.txt should contain
test
twipe_all
config.txt should look like
#test
#ro.fyt.launcher = com.android.launcher04
sys.fyt.bluetooth_type=1
persist.fyt.zh_frontview_enable=false
sys.fyt.ec_version=6
ro.fyt.splitscreen=0
persist.syu.camera360 = 1
# 0不带360 1带360
persist.lsec.pip_rect_clear=true
ro.sf.swrotation=90
persist.lsec.enable_a2dp=true
ro.lsec.btname=Bluetooth 2
persist.lsec.iphone_usb=true
carmark#0
persist.sys.navi.carmarkset=0
launcher name may be different, depends on firmware version.
Make sure 6315_1.zip and lsec6315 update are both dated either before or after July 2, 2022. You cannot mix on from before with another one from after.
You can get a suitable firmware from here. Look for the 7862/9" 10" line ( or 7862-9"-10"-360: if you have 360 view)
Insert the USB and start the unit. You may have to reset up to 5 times until it boots from the USB stick.
If you get an error message, post it here.
If you don't and it still aborts at 80% chances are you have a HW failure

Amazing, thank you for the detailed explanation. Well needed for a noob in this area.
I'll try it out when I get back on the computer later tonight. I guess the night sleep is canceled.
Thanks again, very impressive.
I'll get back to you as soon as I have any results.

I think that this file update he got is not for his device, it does not recognize hardware and stops in a middle of process of install.
Install other updates suitable for your model and year and see if error repeats again.

Anton TNT said:
I think that this file update he got is not for his device, it does not recognize hardware and stops in a middle of process of install.
Install other updates suitable for your model and year and see if error repeats again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Anton,
Thanks. It's what I suspected too. But it seems all the different files I've tried has behaved the same way so far. I'm trying this file that was recommended by @m00n61 here above. So far to reboots and same thing. Stops and reboots at the exact same spot. Switching USB and USB stick in a few minutes for continued trying.

m00n61 said:
Short version:
Get a FAT32-formatted USB stick, good quality. Bad USBs may cause setup to abort.
Copy the firmware files (minimum: config.txt, 6315_1.zip, lsec6315update and updatecfg.txt) to the stick.
updatecfg.txt should contain
test
twipe_all
config.txt should look like
#test
#ro.fyt.launcher = com.android.launcher04
sys.fyt.bluetooth_type=1
persist.fyt.zh_frontview_enable=false
sys.fyt.ec_version=6
ro.fyt.splitscreen=0
persist.syu.camera360 = 1
# 0不带360 1带360
persist.lsec.pip_rect_clear=true
ro.sf.swrotation=90
persist.lsec.enable_a2dp=true
ro.lsec.btname=Bluetooth 2
persist.lsec.iphone_usb=true
carmark#0
persist.sys.navi.carmarkset=0
launcher name may be different, depends on firmware version.
Make sure 6315_1.zip and lsec6315 update are both dated either before or after July 2, 2022. You cannot mix on from before with another one from after.
You can get a suitable firmware from here. Look for the 7862/9" 10" line ( or 7862-9"-10"-360: if you have 360 view)
Insert the USB and start the unit. You may have to reset up to 5 times until it boots from the USB stick.
If you get an error message, post it here.
If you don't and it still aborts at 80% chances are you have a HW failure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, unfortunately it looks like it's the same thing with the recommended files (7862/9). It reboots at the same point at the install and no error messages. I'm trying out the other USB input now and will then try yet another USB stick.
Thanks again.

So I tried to install both the whole file and only the necessary files @m00n61 mentioned earlier. And I tried this on both of the USB inputs and with three different USB sticks. All with the same outcome. the install stops exactly where I showed in the picture in the first post, and then reboots, restarts the install and it goes on like this three times until it just goes black.
Is there any other way that may help? I've read about connecting the head unit to a computer with a USBa-USBa cable and some sort of sofware.
Thanks for your input!

Peter studio tech said:
Is there any other way that may help? I've read about connecting the head unit to a computer with a USBa-USBa cable and some sort of sofware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, including flashing of ROM but it must be done with guidance and by a pro...
But it is last resort, let's try something else first.
Format SD card (if device has slot for it) in FAT 32 not exFAT with default allocation settings - not USB drive but SD card !
- if device has no SD card slot use any SD card reader if you have any and insert it then into USB slot with update files on it
- before unit boot try tapping with one finger on the middle of screen till see message DETECTED
- let the update begin
- if same error appears - press RESET button rapidly each time units starts for 5 times
- as soon as unit starts again tap the screen with all five fingers till recovery mode begins (message erasing will apear and begin to erase system files)
- when boots again into Android download a application named FILE MANAGER from Google Playstore
- go to app
- on the left side of app there is a menu - choose ROOT folder it looks like this "/.."
- there are system files that are hidden from users
- if unit is rooted you can go inside each of this folder
- if not rooted, delete the CACHE folder
- restart unit and try update again with SD card or USB drive
Fingers crossed !

Anton TNT said:
Yes, including flashing of ROM but it must be done with guidance and by a pro...
But it is last resort, let's try something else first.
Format SD card (if device has slot for it) in FAT 32 not exFAT with default allocation settings - not USB drive but SD card !
- if device has no SD card slot use any SD card reader if you have any and insert it then into USB slot with update files on it
- before unit boot try tapping with one finger on the middle of screen till see message DETECTED
- let the update begin
- if same error appears - press RESET button rapidly each time units starts for 5 times
- as soon as unit starts again tap the screen with all five fingers till recovery mode begins (message erasing will apear and begin to erase system files)
- when boots again into Android download a application named FILE MANAGER from Google Playstore
- go to app
- on the left side of app there is a menu - choose ROOT folder it looks like this "/.."
- there are system files that are hidden from users
- if unit is rooted you can go inside each of this folder
- if not rooted, delete the CACHE folder
- restart unit and try update again with SD card or USB drive
Fingers crossed !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thank you so much! I'll try it out tonight! (it's morning here)
The unit has no card slot so I'll give it a go with a card reader.
I've read about the five finger tap (which didn't work on this one) but never the one finger tap. Looking forward to try out your suggestions!
Thanks!

Peter studio tech said:
Thank you so much! I'll try it out tonight! (it's morning here)
The unit has no card slot so I'll give it a go with a card reader.
I've read about the five finger tap (which didn't work on this one) but never the one finger tap. Looking forward to try out your suggestions!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Five tap is not working on every device, every device has different way.
You must find your way to get into recovery mode and get system to clear cache and junk files
Also, maybe you have residual update files left on main folders like factorysettings.bin log files mem.ini etc. delete those too !
BTW you can go into recovery mode if you can access Android and go from infotainment menu or from factory settings (accessed with PIN code)

Yes thank you, I've yet to figure out how to get into recovery mode. And I've never been able to start the device, so recovery mode seems like prio one so far, if I can't get any of the files to work via SD card etc.
Thanks!

Database Users

welcome