Help: Junsun V1 Pro + Audi A3 8P - Android Head-Units

Hi!
I got an Audi A3 8P from 2010 and installed this HU. Everything is working, Android auto / radio / GPS / canbus / OBD, the "only" problem is the audio quality is horrendous. I was expecting it to be worst than the concert radio but it is really bad to the point I'm thinking about returning the head unit. I want to try to improve it before returning it because I was in a friend's car with the same head unit and the sound quality was miles away. I'm pretty sure the problem is hardware/connections. I read somewhere that some Audis have rear speakers amplified and front speakers not amplified. I'm not sure if my car has this configuration but that can be related to the problem.
What is happening is that the sound feels like someone is pushing the gain to the extreme. High/mid frequencies are very uncomfortable and the low frequencies are almost non-existent. I feel like the 3 speakers from the front are being pushed hard and the 2 front door speakers are very low. I saw a video (in Russian with awful translation so could not get much out of it) where the guy was saying that the TDA 7851 amplifier chip usually has too much power for factory speakers (he was not talking about Audi in particular). I spoke to Junsun and they told me they would look into it and try to find the solution but in the meanwhile, I asked for more specs. If I cannot find a solution I will return the hu.
I leave here some technical specs to see if anyone in this forum is able to help me. If I find a solution where I have to replace some speakers or get an amplifier I don't mind. I was thinking if it is possible to get a non-amplified output from the head unit and connect it to an amplifier that distributes for the other speakers.
Audi A3 8P
5 speakers in front and 2 speakers in the back
year: 2010
Head Unit: Junsun V1 pro (I will not post a link because I'm not sure it is allowed)
8-core / 4GB / 64GB
Radio chip: ST7708
Amplifier chip from the head unit: TDA 7851
DSP / RDS: Yes
Android 10
outputs: 4*45w
I found the first picture online but the interior is the same. I also leave here the wiring diagram, according to Junsun I just have to connect the main bay and then 2 RCA's for the rear speakers and 2 RCA's for the auxiliary input.
Thanks a lot for your time

I have the exact same symptoms in my audi tt mk2. As i had no experience with the oem radio i just assumed it was the car that had bad sound and bought an under seat subwoofer.

Dema323 said:
I have the exact same symptoms in my audi tt mk2. As i had no experience with the oem radio i just assumed it was the car that had bad sound and bought an under seat subwoofer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for leaving your input.
Did the subwoofer solve the problem? I want to test with another speakers to see how the sound comes out of the junsun head unit. Also I will try to take the car to a friend who is able to measure what is coming out of the unit channels. I will report back.

The subwoofer addes base, which made the sound good. But would not call it excellent, just good enough that it doesn't bother me.

Maybe try the DSP and play with the subwoofer low pass frequency adjustment, it may be filtering out the low frequency to send to a non-existing subwoofer.

Related

Android Headunit for Hyundai I30 GDH (2015) - car integration

Iam having a look at some of the units for my 2015 Hyundai i30 cw. Namely two variants both with this features:
- 1024 resolution screen
- adapted to hyundai design
- quad core processor
Example for variant A
aliexpress.com/item/2din-Car-Radio-GPS-Navigation-Ipod-MP3-Bluetooth-USB-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Map-WIFi-on-Android-4/1889240271.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_0_79_78_77_82_80_62,searchweb201560_1
Example for variant B
aliexpress.com/item/1024-600-Quad-Core-2-din-7-Android-4-4-Car-Stereo-Radio-dvd-gps-for/32517997140.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_0_79_78_77_82_80_62,searchweb201560_1
Question
- Is there a way to use the car build in microphone with one of this units. If so how?
- Do you have one of those units? What is your feedback?
pr10dr said:
Iam having a look at some of the units for my 2015 Hyundai i30 cw. Namely two variants both with this features:
- 1024 resolution screen
- adapted to hyundai design
- quad core processor
Example for variant A
aliexpress.com/item/2din-Car-Radio-GPS-Navigation-Ipod-MP3-Bluetooth-USB-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Map-WIFi-on-Android-4/1889240271.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_0_79_78_77_82_80_62,searchweb201560_1
Example for variant B
aliexpress.com/item/1024-600-Quad-Core-2-din-7-Android-4-4-Car-Stereo-Radio-dvd-gps-for/32517997140.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_0_79_78_77_82_80_62,searchweb201560_1
Question
- Is there a way to use the car build in microphone with one of this units. If so how?
- Do you have one of those units? What is your feedback?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can answer for I40 and the only way to get a descent Bluetooth is to modify the HU according
to the specific thread in this forum. Both HU's carry the same problem.
Be careful when you order to get the correct screen ie. 1024. They sometimes specify it as optional.
Also verify if you have a factory amplifier. If you have, you need another loom and an analog/SPDIF box.
They are cheap compared to the big guy's, so don't expect miracles. They still work.
I've four units for different cars similar to yours.
Can you point out the thread with the HU modification that improves Bluetooth?
The original Hyundai amplifier only takes spdif as an input? Intresting i dont see other i30 owners which use an android HU mention that.
You are right on the optional 1024 (usually extra 25$).
Iam most intrested not in the bluetooth mobile -> head unit connection but more in getting the audio from the original mic (just above the drivers head) connected to the HU. I feel this way i have less of the aftermarked look (additional mic) and also better audio since the original mic is pretty much in the perfect spot.
I guess i can solder whatever connection the original mic has to my headunit. But there might electrical issues or the mic cable be part of some strange car bus system which will it make hard to figure outand connect.
I don't have a hyundai, but I've put aftermarket units in 2 different cars w/ mics and both had the same problem - they are active mics that have noise cancelling & can't be used w/ these HUs. BUT, you can still easily disconnect the microphone from where it is located and put the aftermarket external mic in its place. My car is a 2014 mazda 6, and my OEM mic was in my overhead where my dome lights are. The panel was held in by 2 screws where the sunglasses drop down. I drop those 2 screws, disconnect the mic from its connector, and pull the mic out (it had some weak adhesive around it, very easy to take out). I then ran my external mic up my a-pillar and mounted it exactly where my factory mic was located. Sound quality is very good, everyone can still hear me okay. and everything looks stock.
Just buy a unit w/o BT issues (avoid MTCB units unless they have fixed this... others seem okay).
Are the units in my original post MTCB units?
What is the reason the active noise canceling microphones can not be used?
pr10dr said:
Are the units in my original post MTCB units?
What is the reason the active noise canceling microphones can not be used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't check your links so you'll have to check for yourself. An active mic will need to be powered, so you'll need to know the correct voltage and supply it somehow. I doubt it's 12V that you can use directly from the unit but you never know. Read it with a meter.
I guess theoretically you could make it work in that case.
Sent from my HTC One M8 using Tapatalk

Px5 MTCD Rockchip PX5 A53 | Android 6.0 | 2GB RAM [MX - Witson] Amp&Speaker Upgrade

Px5 MTCD Rockchip PX5 A53 | Android 6.0 | 2GB RAM [MX - Witson] Amp&Speaker Upgrade
I'm not happy with my car's original speakers and my head unit's sound quality (especially with bass ) and i'm thinking of buying
-Alpine MRX-F65 110WX4 Rms (4ohm) Amp
-Focal Ps 165 Fx Component Mid for all 4 doors.
Does this setup will solve my sound problem? (Bypassing head unit's amp) Or whatever i do i'm stuck with bad sound quality?
Can you give me a brief description about connecting external amp to head unit and speakers?
The most important question is : Is it worth?
I'm also interested as I plan on connecting a 5 channel amp (almost the same as you but with JBL speakers, so front components, rear co-axials and then a sub all from one amp) to a PX5 head unit. I have the speakers just not the head unit!
To connect the head unit to the amp you'll want to use the pre-out RCAs, so if you look on the back of your head unit or find the wiring diagram, it should have 4 RCA connectors, one for Front right, front left, rear right and rear left. Connect these to one channel each on the alpine amp on the inputs. You'll need to take the Ant+ feed or amplifier wire (usually called Ant+) and connect this to the remote input on the power side of the amp. Obviously then the amp needs power and ground - you can get kits for this (google "amp wiring kit" - note the minimum power requirements, likely 4 gauge/21mm^2 wire for that sort of amplifier) which apart from wiring the speakers, gives you everything you need to plug in the amp.
There is a way to use the standard speaker wiring to use as a 'high level' input - but this involves cutting the wires you have so I'd suggest leaving the existing car wiring harness intact and using the RCAs and remote wire as above.
I'd be interested on sound quality, my understanding is it should be better than relying on the in built amp of the head unit (not very good) driving the speakers. Let us know how you get on!

Teyes CCL/SPro

I'm looking to replace my damaged C800 ownice unit and was looking at the Teyes units. Does anybody have any feedback on them?
Teyes CC2L
Recently purchased a CCL2.
Had a hell of a time installing with the Bose amp in my Audi TT. Had to splice in a Hilo from an Enfig harness.
Other than the install being a pita the unit is fantastic.
The only issue is faint interference sound. However it is barely noticeable and only when the stereo is muted.
UI and design is fantastic.
Looks oem in the dash.
I previously had a pioneer 8800bhs in the glovebox with an iPad mini in the dash... this thing is better overall.
Just wish it didn’t have that Interference sound. It’s so low you can’t record it, but you always know it’s there.
I love it if only I could get google assistant to make calls.
Help me please. I buy cc2. I haveMy question. 1 Radio frame. On the back. 3 free cable. What is it for? What is its function? Where to connect?

Dasaita Max 10

I hope I'm posting this in correct section. Has anyone got information on the newest Dasaita Max10-cp? I'm specifically curious about 1280x720 and Android 10
On AliExpress is says it's both 1024x600 and 1280x720 on same advertising page so it's very confusing.
Dasaita communication via messenger is very short answers and they don't seem to answer my questions maybe because there is a major language barrier.
It's supposed to have Android 10.0 among other things. If someone can provide some more info that would be great.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
livethemountainlife said:
I hope I'm posting this in correct section. Has anyone got information on the newest Dasaita Max10-cp? I'm specifically curious about 1280x720 and Android 10
On AliExpress is says it's both 1024x600 and 1280x720 on same advertising page so it's very confusing.
Dasaita communication via messenger is very short answers and they don't seem to answer my questions maybe because there is a major language barrier.
It's supposed to have Android 10.0 among other things. If someone can provide some more info that would be great.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1280*720
changed 1 MID output to SUB output
Dual SUB Output
Integrated (builtin) carplay+Android Auto
ANDROID 10
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Apparently it's 1024*600 but 1280*720 is coming middle 9r the end of July. This is what I was told by Amazon Dasaita rep.
Hi,
I also bought this PX6 Max10 1280x720.
I found some issues after a few days of use:
1. When no music is playing I can ear a backgroud noise. The seller (Aliexpress MTKNAVI Store) is sending me a new RCA cable, still waiting for it...
2. I have a Toyota Rav4 2017 and with this Max10 all the lock doors settings doen't work such as:
- Lock all doors over 20kms/h
- Unlock when shifting P
- Driver lock button doesn't lock all doors
After speaking with Dasaita over FB Messenger they told that there is a new Canbus version and the seller MTKNAVI is sending me the new one.
So far, all the issues has been addressed by Dasaita and the Seller.
Try to reach Dasaita over Facebook Messenger.
pedromfaria said:
Hi,
I also bought this PX6 Max10 1280x720.
I found some issues after a few days of use:
1. When no music is playing I can ear a backgroud noise. The seller (Aliexpress MTKNAVI Store) is sending me a new RCA cable, still waiting for it...
2. I have a Toyota Rav4 2017 and with this Max10 all the lock doors settings doen't work such as:
- Lock all doors over 20kms/h
- Unlock when shifting P
- Driver lock button doesn't lock all doors
After speaking with Dasaita over FB Messenger they told that there is a new Canbus version and the seller MTKNAVI is sending me the new one.
So far, all the issues has been addressed by Dasaita and the Seller.
Try to reach Dasaita over Facebook Messenger
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Known issue due to design defect.
marchnz said:
Known issue due to design defect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi marchnz,
Which one is a known issue, the background noise or the door lock?
pedromfaria said:
Hi marchnz,
Which one is a known issue, the background noise or the door lock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He means the background noise.
They released a rca plugs to avoid that noise...normally coming from the stock amplifier....
Customer must specify the version of the car in order to check if the rca is required.
Enviado desde mi SM-G975F mediante Tapatalk
livethemountainlife said:
I hope I'm posting this in correct section. Has anyone got information on the newest Dasaita Max10-cp? I'm specifically curious about 1280x720 and Android 10
On AliExpress is says it's both 1024x600 and 1280x720 on same advertising page so it's very confusing.
Dasaita communication via messenger is very short answers and they don't seem to answer my questions maybe because there is a major language barrier.
It's supposed to have Android 10.0 among other things. If someone can provide some more info that would be great.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have just installed one Dasaita Max 10, Android 10, 1280x720.
Get mine in a few days. Will post thoughts here.
Just got mine. RAV4 2014 AWD cruiser with amplifier. I have the same problem with the hissing and background noise does anyone have a picture of the RCA cables that are supposed to fix the issue - it's not these?
woggles said:
Just got mine. RAV4 2014 AWD cruiser with amplifier. I have the same problem with the hissing and background noise does anyone have a picture of the RCA cables that are supposed to fix the issue - it's not these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no idea what these rca cables are that people are talking about, but I doubt they remove hiss. I suspect these people are talking about ground loop noise which CAN be cancelled out with a special rca cable set.... but the hiss is coming directly from the unit itself.
I just ordered a dasaita max 10 and it's still in the mail but my old dasaita px5 is plagued with the same hiss issue which I was never able to get rid of. My guess is that my new max 10 will be the same. Fortunately I drive a jeep with a soft top and big mud tires.... which all pretty much drowns out the hiss
Are you connecting to your amp with the speaker level outs or the rca outs?
Bob_Sanders said:
I have no idea what these rca cables are that people are talking about, but I doubt they remove hiss. I suspect these people are talking about ground loop noise which CAN be cancelled out with a special rca cable set.... but the hiss is coming directly from the unit itself.
I just ordered a dasaita max 10 and it's still in the mail but my old dasaita px5 is plagued with the same hiss issue which I was never able to get rid of. My guess is that my new max 10 will be the same. Fortunately I drive a jeep with a soft top and big mud tires.... which all pretty much drowns out the hiss
Are you connecting to your amp with the speaker level outs or the rca outs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think I'm connecting to the amp at all (JBL Greenedge)! I didn't end up using any of the cables numbered 3 to 11 in the attached pic and 14 - 17 are for the reverse camera and factory aux connector. There is no input for it in the bundle of cable harnesses that I can find...am I missing something here?
Thanks for the help, I've asked the seller on Ali about the harnesses - I'll share his replies here.
I Installed mine yesterday and have some issues I bought this one.
C$ 642.79 35%OFF | Dasaita Car Multimedia 10.2" HD Touch Screen Android 10.0 for Toyota Highlander Radio 2015 2016 2017 2018
H5214-MAX10-CP-HD
Hopefully I am just missing something on my setup.
I have a 2018 Toyota Highlander LTD w JBL sound system
I bought the adapter that basically converts the speaker outputs to RCA for the factory amp. I also am using a 4chan Kicker amp so needed to use 4 male to 2 female y splitters to use both. No hiss
My issues are as follows hopefully there is a quick fix.
1. Bluetooth paired with Max10 but just basic info won't send contact info to HU.
2. Offline Nav does not see data without My Samsung Note 9 connected to the MaX10. Using supplied GPS antenna with strong signal.
3. NO Am radio at all ant is plugged in.
Any help would be appreciated. CHEERS
ToyotaJay said:
I Installed mine yesterday and have some issues I bought this one.
C$ 642.79 35%OFF | Dasaita Car Multimedia 10.2" HD Touch Screen Android 10.0 for Toyota Highlander Radio 2015 2016 2017 2018
H5214-MAX10-CP-HD
Hopefully I am just missing something on my setup.
I have a 2018 Toyota Highlander LTD w JBL sound system
I bought the adapter that basically converts the speaker outputs to RCA for the factory amp. I also am using a 4chan Kicker amp so needed to use 4 male to 2 female y splitters to use both. No hiss
My issues are as follows hopefully there is a quick fix.
1. Bluetooth paired with Max10 but just basic info won't send contact info to HU.
2. Offline Nav does not see data without My Samsung Note 9 connected to the MaX10. Using supplied GPS antenna with strong signal.
3. NO Am radio at all ant is plugged in.
Any help would be appreciated. CHEERS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Once paired to your Note 9 go to bluetooth settings on your phone and choose the connection to the headunit. You can see a gear . Push it and check the profiles for the connection. Ensure "contact access" is enabled.
In case it doesn't work. Remove the paired connection from both headunit and phone and pair again. I remember the same issue and corrected after deleting and pairing again.
2. Gps offline. Which offline gps did you installed? If you mean igo gps...perhaps maps were not included...note that installed igo is just a pirated copy if the software...so no support
Isuggest you to get a good offline navigator (like "tomtom or "sygic"....or the free "here maps")
3. Check on factory settings that you have setuo the radio correctly to your region (europe, America1, america2, asia...) password for factory settings = 126
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Thanks for the help I can go the the gear icon I see phone connection for Calls and Audio but I am pretty sure it should say something more ? The reason I am asking is when on the Dasaita I hit the phone icon I can dial a number but not see any contact info?
ToyotaJay said:
Thanks for the help I can go the the gear icon I see phone connection for Calls and Audio but I am pretty sure it should say something more ? The reason I am asking is when on the Dasaita I hit the phone icon I can dial a number but not see any contact info?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem - I'll try re pair and see if it fixes things.
"I bought the adapter that basically converts the speaker outputs to RCA for the factory amp. I also am using a 4chan Kicker amp so needed to use 4 male to 2 female y splitters to use both. No hiss"
Do you have pictures or a link to these?
ToyotaJay said:
I Installed mine yesterday and have some issues I bought this one.
C$ 642.79 35%OFF | Dasaita Car Multimedia 10.2" HD Touch Screen Android 10.0 for Toyota Highlander Radio 2015 2016 2017 2018
H5214-MAX10-CP-HD
Hopefully I am just missing something on my setup.
I have a 2018 Toyota Highlander LTD w JBL sound system
I bought the adapter that basically converts the speaker outputs to RCA for the factory amp. I also am using a 4chan Kicker amp so needed to use 4 male to 2 female y splitters to use both. No hiss
My issues are as follows hopefully there is a quick fix.
1. Bluetooth paired with Max10 but just basic info won't send contact info to HU.
2. Offline Nav does not see data without My Samsung Note 9 connected to the MaX10. Using supplied GPS antenna with strong signal.
3. NO Am radio at all ant is plugged in.
Any help would be appreciated. CHEERS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have IGO nav on my Dasaita px5 and it is most definitely an off line system which does not require a connection. As @ikerg suggested maybe you didn't download the updated maps for your area? If you're talking about google or waze or some nav system like that... they are not really off line systems.
As noted on my above post, I haven't got my max 10 yet (still in the mail. It might come within the next 5 years or so given the speed and accuracy of China Post!) but I did notice with my px5 the request for permission to download bluetooth information (contacts, recents... etc) always came in like 10 or 15 minutes after initial pairing. Never did figure out why the delay, but give it a little while.
Interesting about the lack of hiss. I'm using the rca's directly off the back of my px5 (which I always assumed to be cleaner than the speaker outputs) to my amps and I DO get hiss. Even when volume is ZERO you can faintly hear it. Maybe I will try the speaker outputs
Sorry to be clear I am using the 2v rca outputs as well the y splitters are used for the adapter to the JBL factory amp and to my Kicker amp connected to the outputs from the HU . I guess Dasaita made this adaptor to send a better signal to the factory Amp to get rid of that noise Is my guesstimate Others have said it fixed their issues on the JBL system
And your right probably need to connect through hotspot again and go to maps and download the offline data just like my phone not used to a andriod HU as a stereo replacement.
Anyone know how to get the Max10 to auto pair with my hotspot I leave it on the phone side but have to keep hitting the wifi connection every time .The system setting is set to auto connect i believe.
OK FIXED the Max 10 Bluetooth issue after pairing go to phone icon on Dasaita hit the Sync button two arrows doing the spin third button down on the right menu . Then the request for sharing contact info showed up on the phone request and voila!
ToyotaJay said:
Sorry to be clear I am using the 2v rca outputs as well the y splitters are used for the adapter to the JBL factory amp and to my Kicker amp connected to the outputs from the HU . I guess Dasaita made this adaptor to send a better signal to the factory Amp to get rid of that noise Is my guesstimate Others have said it fixed their issues on the JBL system
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah ok, so it arrived with your order? I guess I'll need to try and get them to ship the adapter out to me...
Does anyone have a pic of the adapter? I want to see if I could make it myself instead of waiting another month for it to arrive from China
Mine arrived in 5 days with DHL should not take that long. Honestly better to use the head unit power than the JBL but I was feeling lazy LOL

Poor Bass on Android head unit

Hi all
First, I'm not English, I'm from France and I apologize for my poor English.
I recently purchased a Head unit for my Opel Antara car.
I think it's a Chinese one, I bought it on a french website.
Everything work but I have a problem with the sound, I will try to explain it.
There is no dsp in it and there is an eq but only the music app.
On the radio I have only treble, but on the music app, I hear some little bass. When I go the the eq and max the bass, I hear it but very bad quality.
I don't know how to make the bass work.
Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to...
Wiring is good.
I post you a photo , maybe it can help you.
Thanks for your help.
Oh and the link where I bought it.
https://www.cdiscount.com/auto/gps-car-audio-electronique/autoradio-android-pour-opel-gps-7-pouces-ecran-ta/f-133164801-oss0787937334681.html
Does it have crossover settings?
lowridincrew said:
Does it have crossover settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I just have in the setting to get more sound left or right, called fader I think
Virbolix said:
Nope, I just have in the setting to get more sound left or right, called fader I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats the main issue, you can't adjust the crossover on any of the speakers. I'm not quite sure if you could flash any operating system to it to give it a better eq and crossover but check your options based on your build
Notice the OP said:
"Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to.."
So it is not a fault of the current head unit, there will be something that has been overlooked, maybe power switching for a bass amplifier or wiring for low frequency speakers. We'd need information about the rest of the system in the car to make any useful suggestions.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Notice the OP said:
"Before, an Android head unit was installed too but there was no bass to.."
So it is not a fault of the current head unit, there will be something that has been overlooked, maybe power switching for a bass amplifier or wiring for low frequency speakers. We'd need information about the rest of the system in the car to make any useful suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What informations do you need?
My car model is an Opel Antara Cosmo Pack from 2007.
On the doors I have 1 big speaker (bass come from it) and one little where I hear treble.
I have one center on the dashboard too.
I don't know if there is an amplifier in the car already.
I link you the wires behind the head unit.
If needed I can take other photos
Thanks for your help.
Oh and the rear speakers don't work too
I'm not sure I can help more, but from what you've told me I'd be almost certain there will be an amplifier somewhere in the car and it is not getting either power or signals or both. hopefully someone here may know the model of car and share some knowledge of the systems that will be installed and thus how to make the necessary connections. Have you approached the Opel dealers to see if they have any documentation that could help? There may also be some tie-up with the car's CANBUS system.
On my FYT unit with an DSP, enabling "LOUD" (loudness management?) Made a tremendous difference, do you have such option hidden somewhere?
Kwen said:
On my FYT unit with an DSP, enabling "LOUD" (loudness management?) Made a tremendous difference, do you have such option hidden somewhere?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Only in the Music App, but when I activate it's very terrible bass ‍
If your rear-speaker are not working, and you have a center speaker in the dash, there is a OEM amplifier in there, or has been fired by the OEM radio and the only connection which is missing is the power connection to the OEM amplifier.
You need to talk with some guy of a car-hifi shop. That is nothing we can support, if you even don´t know what is built in there.
By the way... the OEM speakers are just crap. Don´t expect any good sound with their paper membranes. First try to find the amplifier, the connections to it and may be you need a different CAN-Box.
That needs all to be verified by someone who is able to.
rigattoni said:
If your rear-speaker are not working, and you have a center speaker in the dash, there is a OEM amplifier in there, or has been fired by the OEM radio and the only connection which is missing is the power connection to the OEM amplifier.
You need to talk with some guy of a car-hifi shop. That is nothing we can support, if you even don´t know what is built in there.
By the way... the OEM speakers are just crap. Don´t expect any good sound with their paper membranes. First try to find the amplifier, the connections to it and may be you need a different CAN-Box.
That needs all to be verified by someone who is able to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh ok,thank you, I will do this.
I just did some Googling, and from that it does not sound like there's any amplifier in those cars so my first impression is probably incorrect, they mention 7 speakers but only 4*20 watt outputs on the factory unit so I think that will be front woofers *2, front tweeters *2 (probably just fed via capacitors from the woofers), rear full range speakers *2 and the centre front speaker will be just for vehicle warnings and sounds (like the direction flasher clicks, for example).
I'm tending now to incorrect connection of the speakers to the HU. OP did you just copy what was done with the other Android unit which you said also had the problem and was likely wrong, or did you go through and check each speaker's wiring individually and ensure correct connection? You should check each speaker except the tweeters by using a 1.5 volt cell and a pair of wires to identify correctly the wires from each one and which is the positive terminal of each so that you get correct phasing.
Who installed the previous Android unit? Were they familiar with audio installations?
If you were here I'd offer to look for you, but I think we're in very different countries.
Further thoughts, we may be making an incorrect assumption that the speakers are in good condition. They may have been damaged by someone or something previously.
Using the 1.5 volt cell as I mentioned, you should get a good rich sounding thump each time you make or break the connection. If you get only a thin scratchy sound or no sound at all then the speakers are damaged, or vaguely possible the wiring to them is damaged in some way, perhaps a short to ground.
Don't worry, you can't harm speakers with 1.5 volts, that is far less power than a 20 watt output gives them.

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