Related
I just found this picture
dev.odroid.com/wiki/odroid-t/pds/FrontPage/s_blockdiagram.jpg
So does it mean only 384MB DDR is available in system?
May be this is the reason why 305M ram shows in JP3 firmware.
That could make sense.
I wonder what the difference between them is?...Could one be dedicated to the GPU or in charge of background stuff?
Did anyone notice MFC 1080p 30 fps there?
That system block diagram isn't a Samsung official one, and frankly, i think it's wrong.
If the main memory in the Galaxy S was LPDDR1, we'd see lower GPU performance, MUCH lower. Memory bandwidth is everything when it comes to GPU on mobile devices like this.
Pika007 said:
That system block diagram isn't a Samsung official one, and frankly, i think it's wrong.
If the main memory in the Galaxy S was LPDDR1, we'd see lower GPU performance, MUCH lower. Memory bandwidth is everything when it comes to GPU on mobile devices like this.
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Click to collapse
GPU RAM must be OneDRAM，OneDRAM is much faster than normal DRAM.
You can google "OneDRAM".
So I guess we might not really have 512MB of ram (as advertised)... isn't it? I mean, if these MBs are reserved to GPU use only. There will come a day when they will be needed for other use than graphics :|.
They are not reserved for GPU use only.
OneDRAM is like an intersection for routing information with as-little-as-possible blockades in the middle.
Splitting the memory to "conventional" ram and onedram is going against the very principal of onedram. I am having a hard time to believe they actually did that.
^Sbk79^ said:
So I guess we might not really have 512MB of ram (as advertised)... isn't it? I mean, if these MBs are reserved to GPU use only. There will come a day when they will be needed for other use than graphics :|.
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Click to collapse
There is no official statement about RAM size.
I noticed the diagram says "TFT LCDC". That seems wrong, does it not?
coocood said:
There is no official statement about RAM size.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. You'll find a lot of press about the Galaxy S having 512mb RAM, but where does Samsung itself advertise this? I cannot find anything about it anywhere on Samsungs website. Maybe we should ask them?
GSMarena pressed on the issue when the phone was released, and samsung replied that there are indeed 512MB.
Lol....So do we actually know if it has 512MB of RAM or not? As some others have stated it might help explain why the Sammy has lag issues and the Desire does not..
BTW, I dont own either at present and am just going by what I have read in these forums.
That diagram also doesn't list wireless N, does that mean our phones don't have wireless n???
Pika007 said:
GSMarena pressed on the issue when the phone was released, and samsung replied that there are indeed 512MB.
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Click to collapse
well..... using my onboard math processor I compuete that 384+128 = 512..
So samsung wouldnt have been lying if they had said there was 512.. even if 128 might be dedicated to the gpu or something else. 512+128 would have been nicer though.
I wonder if this diagram is accurate.
The picture is of ODROID-T which is a tablet style device for developers.
Its hardwares are quite similar to SGS but I don't think this block diagram should be showing exactly the same informations as SGS's.
Have a look at this site;
http://dev.odroid.com/wiki/odroid-t/
Well, the S5PC110 doesn't have the memory built in beforehand. It's changeable, the controller supports OneDRAM, LPDDR1 and LPDDR2. You can stick whatever you want in there.
Remember that only what's in the blue square is the actual SOC.
Kilack said:
well..... using my onboard math processor I compuete that 384+128 = 512..
So samsung wouldnt have been lying if they had said there was 512.. even if 128 might be dedicated to the gpu or something else. 512+128 would have been nicer though.
I wonder if this diagram is accurate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does this differ from the HTC Desire setup? I know it has 576 MB RAM, but not sure how its split up...
Well, I checked before posting. Google for an official press release from Samsung Australia. Xda is not letting me post external links due to my low number of posts. However, I love my S. I'm just saying that this mem thing is starting to smell a little bit of i7500, from a customer relations' POV. Let's just hope we actually have a different design and that, as rumors say, new kernels will unlock all available ram.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
I also found a tear down analysis of Korean version galaxy s.
The author said it has "4Gb NAND+3Gb DDR+1Gb OneNand",which is incorrect.
Some comment below said it is OneDram actually.
If not for the OneDram,How can samsung declare 90M triangles/sec instead of powerVR's figure of 28M triangles/sec.
OneDram is more expensive than DDR.
I guess samsung does't say anything about RAM because it's a different structure,and hard to explain.
gosh i have been lurking on these forums to buy this phone
but with this memory issue it seems like the OMNIA II all over again
there the phone was advertisied with 512mb but only so little was left to the user!!
samsung samsng oh samsung!
So, the Transformer uses 1 stick of DDR2 RAM which is 1GB. I'm assuming it only has one slot for RAM anyways. But I know there are 4GB DDR2 sticks available. So why couldn't we manually do it? Sure, the thing seems more sealed shut than a laptop/netbook... So anyone know what speed the RAM is?
Sure, 1GB of RAM is more than enough for Honeycomb, but I'm thinking ahead; when Windows 8 is available, when we can run Ubuntu natively, and of course do other crazy, thought-provoking things.
You can never have enough RAM!
Wow that sounds like a really good idea.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Memory is soldered to the board. Memory requirements for Android and Linux are far less than those required by Microsoft OS.
I am almost 100% certain that you cannot upgrade the RAM in the Transformer. With most modern mobile devices the ram module is directly soldered to the motherboard and not intended to be replaced.
Tf does not use a memory stick,but a module soldered to the board. In addition, the processor / OS may not support larger RAM space.
Rumbleweed said:
Tf does not use a memory stick,but a module soldered to the board. In addition, the processor / OS may not support larger RAM space.
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Oh shoot that is right as well. Tegra 2 can only support up to 1 gig of RAM.
Hello! Is it possible to replace and upgrade your phone's RAM and solder aftermarket RAM in it?
Thanks!
ps. Sorry for bad English
I do not think you can, these phones aren't really made for upgrades.
I have heard mention of this before ... but the compact design of the phone and the ability to find (upgraded) ram that would work with the chipset (soldered or otherwise) seems nearly impossible to find to me.
However, if someone was successful in this I would certainly be interested in hearing how.
I think it is too hard or You cant ('x ' )
Seeing as how the RAM modules built into the phone mother board are BGAs (ball grid arrays) it is nearly impossible to replace them without highly specialized equiptment like a FineTech BGA rework machine and the proper heat profiles for the given parts. That said you are more than welcome to try some methods that are not proven but seem very funny to me. I believe there is a youtube video of a man desoldering a BGA using an oven.
Needless to say of you dont like the amount of RAM your device has you may just have to wait until you can get another device.
In especial cases you can UNLOCK the RAM, but it didn't happen as a lot of devs tried and a really small quantity(of devs not phones) reached this point and the only phone that I know is unlockable is the ZTE Blade.
As an embedded system with some [normally] tightly controlled schematics and firmware, this would be unlikely for you to acomplish, since you're asking the question to begin with.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
hyztname said:
In especial cases you can UNLOCK the RAM, but it didn't happen as a lot of devs tried and a really small quantity(of devs not phones) reached this point and the only phone that I know is unlockable is the ZTE Blade.
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Click to collapse
Not at all related to this, blade had 512mb of RAM in it, but it wasn't accessible- solved by a kernel change
Sent from my fingerz 2 ur eyez
.
all smartphone devices have x amount of ram. say if you have 1gb ram in your phone you might only be able to use 868mb of it . it is becous your phone uses 128 mb for your gpu. it is plausible to make some of your gpu ram available as regular ram and that is done with an kernel mod. for my phone(lg optimus) 2x it is called a ram hack. it always comes with some faults depending on how much you take from the gpu. i have a 32mb shared ram hack so i cant reboot just have to turn the phone on and off
hey all
I guess it would be possible, however it might not so easy, I upgraded the ram of a wrt router some time ago: http://neophob.com/2006/01/wrt54g-ram-upgrade/
There's no chance of upgrading a mobile phone RAM .
I think the same,no way to upgrade ram on mobile phone
This is possible, but as others have said the complexity and difficulty to desolder a BGA ram chip and then put a new one on perfectly without messing anything up is incredibly high. And in addition, you have to find a ram chip that is compatible with your device (pin count and configuration, physical size, voltage, timings) and of a higher density, another difficult feat. So while it is technically possible, the practical answer is no it is not possible for anyone to do in the real world.
Hmm dont think you can.
EniGmA1987 said:
This is possible, but as others have said the complexity and difficulty to desolder a BGA ram chip and then put a new one on perfectly without messing anything up is incredibly high. And in addition, you have to find a ram chip that is compatible with your device (pin count and configuration, physical size, voltage, timings) and of a higher density, another difficult feat. So while it is technically possible, the practical answer is no it is not possible for anyone to do in the real world.
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Click to collapse
ive seen it done, it can be done. its just really hard and nerve racking
Man bga chips are pain in a$$, unless u have sophisticated workstation.
A single short circuit/ loose contact can blow up ur entire CPU/motherboard.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
Hate to say it but no, in many of the SoC (System on a Chip) devices, the RAM is a soldered component of the main board. They are using RAM Modules rather then SODIMM Chips. It would be nice though
Parts
Anyone have any ideas of where you could even start to look for ram that would work? I have a HTC Evo 4G. I wonder if its possible to find parts from a HTC Evo 3D and modify.
seems so
just from the CoE course, revers engng and tweaking hardware is a good start
it's possible, but if you think you'll save money that way, you're wrong.
lol
When I saw the topic of a beginner's guide to building a PC, I jumped for it because I remember building my first PC. It actually wasn't nearly as long ago as you'd think. I also remember how clueless I was. Obviously, I know about everything that goes inside of a computer, but once I was faced with the task of putting all of that together, I was like a deer in headlights.
PrerequisitesLet's start off with a list of everything that you're going to need:
CPU
Thermal paste
Motherboard
CPU cooler
Case
Power supply
RAM
Storage
GPU (optional unless you have an Intel F-series processor)
An operating system
And then, of course, don't forget about the necessary peripherals:
Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speakers
Webcam
External peripherals are beyond the scope of this post, but take note of what you need, keeping in mind that the PC you're building doesn't have the built-in parts of an all-in-one PC, like a microphone, speakers, and a webcam.
How to get started or: Pick a CPUFirst of all, and I cannot stress this enough, PCPartPicker is your friend. The site lets you plug in a list of parts that you're planning on using and it will tell you if there are any compatibility issues. It's super useful. In fact, even if you know that your parts should be good to go, run them through PCPartPicker anyway just to make sure.
The other key thing you need to do when getting started is to pick a CPU. This is an important first step because you're pretty much building out the PC around this choice. There aren't any motherboards that support both Intel and AMD CPUs.
Choosing between AMD and Intel (see, I didn't put the same company first twice in a row so you guys can't yell at me) is the first step. Once you do that, you can decide what kind of performance that you need. I wrote a guide to Intel CPUs and what the product names mean. With AMD, you have Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, and Ryzen 9, and performance goes according to how high that number is. The same goes with Intel and the Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, and Core i9.
Intel has a bunch of different suffixes. If there isn't one, it's a standard 65W desktop processor, so something like a Core i5-11600 is pretty mainstream. Add a K and it's now a 125W processor that's unlocked for overclocking. And as mentioned above, an F means that it does not have integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.
Pick a motherboard, or a case, or bothNext, you have to pick a motherboard and a case. I'm including both in this section because it's a matter of priorities. Do you want a case that fits your motherboard or a motherboard that fits your case? If you already know what case you want to use, start there and find motherboards that work. If not, start with a motherboard that has what you want.
First, let's cut your motherboard choices in half. If you're using AMD Ryzen, you need an AM4 socket. In you're using Intel 10th- or 11th-gen, you need an LGA 1200 socket. Note that with Intel, 12th-gen will use a new socket, so this is not upgradeable.
Next, you have to pick the size of your motherboard, and this is where compatibility with the case comes in. There's eATX, ATX, mATX, and mini-ITX, all in size order. This very much comes down to how big of a PC you want to build. Looking for something that's super-small and can hide behind your monitor? That's where mini-ITX comes in. Want something big and beefy that's going to have some serious power and thermals? Go for eATX.
When picking a case, it will tell you what size board it can fit. Obviously, the CPU, motherboard, and case choices go hand in hand.
Now that you've narrowed down your motherboard choices to the socket and the size, you're in good shape. It's time to start looking at ports, PCIe slots, and more. Make sure that you've got the ports to plug in what you need and the latest USB standard. Make sure you've got enough memory slots. A big one is the graphics card you want to use. Make sure there's room for it not only on the board, but in the case.
Pick a CPU cooler and thermal pasteNow, it's time to figure out how you're going to keep that CPU cool. Here's the bottom line. The more your CPU heats up, the worse the performance gets. The cooler you can keep it, the more it can sustain peak performance.
The first thing that you have to choose between is air cooling and liquid cooling, and there are pros and cons to each. Air coolers can be easier to install and more cost-effective, but if you want a good one, they take up a lot of space. Liquid cooling can be better if you plan on doing a lot of overclocking.
Personally, I'm a big fan of air coolers from Noctua. I use a Noctua NH-U12A, which is not only designed to be one of the best air coolers around, but it's quiet too.
So, after you decide if you want liquid or air cooling, you then have to looking at how cool it keeps the CPU and also how much noise it makes. That noise is important.
Then there's the thermal paste, which sits between the CPU and the CPU cooler. The more evenly it's applied, the better the cooling. Many CPU coolers, like the one I mentioned above from Noctua, come with thermal paste. You can always shop around though. A tube of thermal paste costs under $10, so using the best one there is should be an easy way to keep your CPU cool.
Pick a power supply and a GPUAs you can see, a lot of these parts go hand in hand. In fact, once you've put this all together, you'll find that they all go hand in hand. But we can't talk about the power supply without picking a GPU.
Picking a GPU is optional. Like I said, you might want a simple productivity machine with a Core i5 and integrated graphics. You also might want a gaming rig with an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090. And then there's everything in-between.
With that in mind, you need to pick a power supply. This is an area that you'd definitely be well-off to use PCPartPicker for. It will tell you the wattage of all of the parts you've picked so far, and then tell you if there are any compatibility issues with you pick a power supply. I'd suggest picking one with plenty of wattage to spare so you can upgrade down the line.
Another thing is that you should definitely get a modular PSU (power supply unit). That means that the power cables aren't attached to the PSU itself. You can add cables as you need to, and since you're a builder now, you're probably going to need to at some point.
The other thing that's important is efficiency. You'll see an 80 PLUS rating that can be Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, or Titanium. This is important, because it's based on how much power is lost due to heat.
RAM, storage, and OSIf you've made it this far, you're in good shape. This is the easy part.
With RAM, you want more, and you want faster. It's that simple. You can also look up how fast of memory your CPU supports and go for that. The same goes for storage. An M.2 SSD is the way to go if you can, but there are also SATA SSDs. You can get an HDD if you're on a really tight budget, but I don't recommend it.
As far as the OS goes, it's between Windows and Linux. Windows costs money; Linux doesn't. I'm not really here to tell you which one you should go for.
Putting it all togetherAlright, you've got all of your parts and you're ready to build your dream PC! It's the second-most exciting feeling behind the first boot.
Most of this is going to be about plugging things in where they fit, but sadly, it's not that simple. You need to start working through the manuals that came with your motherboard and your case. Those are going to tell you exactly what to plug in where, and most of it is fairly straightforward. There are few things that will actually break if you do them wrong.
The one thing that will break if you do it wrong is installing the CPU in the motherboard. It's important not to apply any unnecessary pressure when doing this because you could bend the pins on the chip or the board (depending on who made the CPU). Damage one of those and you've got some very expensive paperweights very quickly. To be clear, there's nothing to be afraid of here and it's very easy to do. Practice some healthy caution and you'll be fine.
Installing the motherboard in the case is something you'll need to follow instructions to do, which is fine, as it's easy enough. Once it's screwed into place, there will be several cables in the case that have to plug into the board. These will be for fans built into the case, for additional USB ports, and so on.
The other thing you'll have to install in the case is the PSU. Read the instructions and make sure the fan in the PSU is facing the right way. This is not something that you want to do incorrectly. There are a few cables to plug into the case and the board. Once the GPU is installed, you'll have to plug that in too.
Next, you'll probably be installing the CPU cooler. Make sure to apply thermal paste before you do. A pea-sized dot right in the middle of the CPU will do it. Do your best to bring the cooler directly down on the CPU, rather than doing it from an angle. This will spread it evenly across the chip.
Obviously, the graphics card, the storage, and RAM can fit into their respective slot. Note that for most boards, if you have four RAM slots and you only have two RAM sticks, you're better off separating them by one slot for dual-channel memory.
Once that's all done, you should be ready to plug it in and boot it up. You might not want to close the case on first-run, so you can make sure all of the fans are spinning. You can plug your USB drive with the OS into a USB port and boot into it to install the operating system.
Something went wrong!Well, you've made it this far and now something doesn't work. Isn't that always the way it goes?
The most common problem is probably that you pressed the power button and nothing happened. After all, if the thing that went wrong is that you broke something, you should just buy a new one.
If it's not booting, now it's time to start checking cables. Make sure that everything is plugged in securely, particularly the CPU cooler. Make sure that the PSU cables are plugged in at both ends. If there were any steps you weren't sure about, such as if you plugged something in in the right spot, revisit it.
If you just can't figure it out, come back here and ask for help.
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
svetius said:
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TBH CPU is always important. But RAM should definitely be a priority.
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
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Click to collapse
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Insanenity said:
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
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What's XMP?
svetius said:
What's XMP?
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XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) is a technology that allows you to change memory settings by selecting a different profile, which takes advantage of higher than standard memory speeds. Simply stated, XMP is the "easy button" of RAM overclocking, as manual RAM overclocking can be an unnecessary headache!
svetius said:
What's XMP?
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RAM over 2400Mhz is overclocked. X.M.P is just a system to overclock your ram. It's standard now. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything over 3600Mhz as it gets too pricey for the performance. Go no lower than 2666, try for 3200 (this tends to be the cheaper one anyways). I believe you will need to enable X.M.P in your uefi when you install it otherwise you'll just be running 2400. Like Insanenity said, it's just a 1 click setup so there's no fuss.
If you're not focused on gaming; while 16GB is fine, if you find a 32GB kit in your budget than definitely get it. Get a fair CPU with over 6 cores. (so ryzen).
LTT just did a video on something that might interest you.
This could be a good option for your productivity build as it's bang for buck. But if you have the budget for R7 5000's than just go for that.
Tldr: Chrome is a ram and cpu whore, use firefox...
I'm kidding, invest in CPU and RAM more than others if chrome is your concern.
p.s. Feel free to ask questions
strongst said:
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
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Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Stransky said:
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
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Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
strongst said:
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
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I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
HipKat said:
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
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Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
strongst said:
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
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I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
HipKat said:
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
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In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
strongst said:
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
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I'll go look again when I get a break, but I'm pretty sure you're correct about it being the founders edition
Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Noe367 said:
Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not a bad system in any way! The question is, in which application should your PC be better? A game? Video rendering?
And What is your resulution of your monitor(s) where your GTX1060 has to deal with?
strongst said:
That's not a bad system in any way! The question is, in which application should your PC be better? A game? Video rendering?
And What is your resulution of your monitor(s) where your GTX1060 has to deal with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Noe367 said:
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the 1060 can't handle >1080p gaming at 144hz good, that's the main part you should update. You can check my Ryzen build here where I'm using similar resolutions for the monitors.
The 3060ti might be a good choice. I don't talk about the current prices at all, you know...
You can update to an i9-9900k which is ~30% faster than yours. But your processor isn't that bad, it might be more the lot of multiple tasks where you should think about more cores (10/16) in general
If you have more available bandwidth and ports consider adding more drives for the OS.
Depending on the Intel firmware there may be some interesting Raid options.
Explore your page file/drive options as well.
Just make sure to clone the OS drive for easy restore, clone before installing antivirus apps.
Keep the data off the OS drive, just apps.
Never clone data drives; copy only! Cloning media files can cause you to lose needed null marks.
strongst said:
Yeah, the 1060 can't handle >1080p gaming at 144hz good, that's the main part you should update. You can check my Ryzen build here where I'm using similar resolutions for the monitors.
The 3060ti might be a good choice. I don't talk about the current prices at all, you know...
You can update to an i9-9900k which is ~30% faster than yours. But your processor isn't that bad, it might be more the lot of multiple tasks where you should think about more cores (10/16) in general
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot ! Very useful
blackhawk said:
If you have more available bandwidth and ports consider adding more drives for the OS.
Depending on the Intel firmware there may be some interesting Raid options.
Explore your page file/drive options as well.
Just make sure to clone the OS drive for easy restore, clone before installing antivirus apps.
Keep the data off the OS drive, just apps.
Never clone data drives; copy only! Cloning media files can cause you to lose needed null marks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might buy a .m2 drive
Noe367 said:
I might buy a .m2 drive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I not up to date at all on the new mobos and drives... I run dinosaurs
ID your bottlenecks.
Research it thoroughly, even then it will be by trial and error.
Playing with the page file (maybe adding another fast dedicated drive) may yield good results with minimal expense/effort.
blackhawk said:
I not up to date at all on the new mobos and drives... I run dinosaurs
ID your bottlenecks.
Research it thoroughly, even then it will be by trial and error.
Playing with the page file (maybe adding another fast dedicated drive) may yield good results with minimal expense/effort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, thanks !!
Noe367 said:
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for a mobo with all solid state caps and preferably no electrolytics which invariably fail with age.
Gigabyte has been making all solid state mobos for over a dozen years.
blackhawk said:
Go for a mobo with all solid state caps and preferably no electrolytics which invariably fail with age.
Gigabyte has been making all solid state mobos for over a dozen years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, thank you, very helpful
Noe367 said:
Again, thank you
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Click to collapse
You're welcome.
Don't skip on the power supply*. Get the best you can find. A failed supply can be a real pain to troubleshoot.
Make sure it's minimum rated output supports your devices on that rail. Probably not an issue but be aware of it.
Most importantly make sure you have lots of head room on all the supply rails especially the lower voltage ones. Leave room for expansion.
Overrate by at least 20% of expected maximum surge demand for all rails.
Look closely at build quality. Does it look well built using epoxy PCBs and heavy wires?
A clean, neat layout?
Quality fans and excellent ventilation that conform to your case layout/venting needs?
Enough direct outputs to minimize preferably eliminate daisy chaining?
Long enough for the mobo and graphics card?
Note the exit point for cables, do they integrate well with your case design/layout?
Fun times
*a good case is a joy to work with and helps to protect your investment.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
Don't skip on the power supply*. Get the best you can find. A failed supply can be a real pain to troubleshoot.
Make sure it's minimum rated output supports your devices on that rail. Probably not an issue but be aware of it.
Most importantly make sure you have lots of head room on all the supply rails especially the lower voltage ones. Leave room for expansion.
Overrate by at least 20% of expected maximum surge demand for all rails.
Look closely at build quality. Does it look well built using epoxy PCBs and heavy wires?
A clean, neat layout?
Quality fans and excellent ventilation that conform to your case layout/venting needs?
Enough direct outputs to minimize preferably eliminate daisy chaining?
Long enough for the mobo and graphics card?
Note the exit point for cables, do they integrate well with your case design/layout?
Fun times
*a good case is a joy to work with and helps to protect your investment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome !
This beast or similar. The power supply goes on the bottom.
Amazon.com: Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed : Everything Else
Buy Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
First of all, I don't want to offend anybody that has commented their suggestions already, but in my opinion most of the replies are pretty lackluster to say the least.
Now, I saw you mentioned that you mostly play games on your PC. I'd say your CPU is still perfectly fine for most modem games, the GPU is another story though. While the standard 1060 is still a decent card, your version only has 3 GB of VRAM. This is becoming more and more of a problem in modern titles and you should consider upgrading, I'd say at least to a 6 GB 1060. Of course, the current market is awful and you shouldn't spend too much money on that old of a GPU, but if you can find one at a decent price, it might be worth a buy.
Other than that, your system is pretty well specced out in my opinion, you might want to sort out that RAM situation and get a matching kit of DDR4 at a decent clock speed, your description seems a bit all over the place in that regard. 16 GB of RAM is still perfectly fine, I wouldn't recommend a capacity upgrade, but matching sticks with matching speeds can do wonders.
Furthermore, I'd consider a bigger SSD, but your current storage configuration should provide enough space and as long as the OS is located on the SSD performance shouldn't be too bad either.
Finally, whatever you do, getting a 9900k, like somebody suggested, is a bad idea in my opinion. If you don't want to do any serious overclocking or have to do **very** CPU-intensive tasks, your 8400 should still hold up well. If you go for a 9900k you might as well build a new system because you're probably gonna need a new motherboard, CPU Cooler and definitely a GPU upgrade so the 9900k doesn't have to live in bottleneck hell. Incase you absolutely want to upgrade the CPU, I'd say go for an i7 of the 8th generation, as you'll be able to expect better performance than from your i5 thanks to multithreading while not having to upgrade any others parts mentioned above.
So, to conclude: You should upgrade your GPU. Go for something like the 6 GB 1060 or better. Search around on the internet for GPUs that work well with your processor. Maybe get some matching RAM. If you still have money to spend, a bigger SSD might make everything a bit snappier. I wouldn't consider upgrading the CPU.
And, a last final note: Make sure you don't exceed your PSU's wattage, definitely check before buying any upgrades.
littlegamer757 said:
First of all, I don't want to offend anybody that has commented their suggestions already, but in my opinion most of the replies are pretty lackluster to say the least.
Now, I saw you mentioned that you mostly play games on your PC. I'd say your CPU is still perfectly fine for most modem games, the GPU is another story though. While the standard 1060 is still a decent card, your version only has 3 GB of VRAM. This is becoming more and more of a problem in modern titles and you should consider upgrading, I'd say at least to a 6 GB 1060. Of course, the current market is awful and you shouldn't spend too much money on that old of a GPU, but if you can find one at a decent price, it might be worth a buy.
Other than that, your system is pretty well specced out in my opinion, you might want to sort out that RAM situation and get a matching kit of DDR4 at a decent clock speed, your description seems a bit all over the place in that regard. 16 GB of RAM is still perfectly fine, I wouldn't recommend a capacity upgrade, but matching sticks with matching speeds can do wonders.
Furthermore, I'd consider a bigger SSD, but your current storage configuration should provide enough space and as long as the OS is located on the SSD performance shouldn't be too bad either.
Finally, whatever you do, getting a 9900k, like somebody suggested, is a bad idea in my opinion. If you don't want to do any serious overclocking or have to do **very** CPU-intensive tasks, your 8400 should still hold up well. If you go for a 9900k you might as well build a new system because you're probably gonna need a new motherboard, CPU Cooler and definitely a GPU upgrade so the 9900k doesn't have to live in bottleneck hell. Incase you absolutely want to upgrade the CPU, I'd say go for an i7 of the 8th generation, as you'll be able to expect better performance than from your i5 thanks to multithreading while not having to upgrade any others parts mentioned above.
So, to conclude: You should upgrade your GPU. Go for something like the 6 GB 1060 or better. Search around on the internet for GPUs that work well with your processor. Maybe get some matching RAM. If you still have money to spend, a bigger SSD might make everything a bit snappier. I wouldn't consider upgrading the CPU.
And, a last final note: Make sure you don't exceed your PSU's wattage, definitely check before buying any upgrades.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, now I have the choice and many opinions to make my own choice
blackhawk said:
This beast or similar. The power supply goes on the bottom.
Amazon.com: Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed : Everything Else
Buy Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an In Win, this is fine for me, for the moment. Will also see that !
Noe367 said:
I have an In Win, this is fine for me, for the moment. Will also see that !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a real clean layout. Power harnesses run behind a steel inner panel for better shielding, out of sight and out of the way.
Plenty of cooling with the ability to expand cooling if needed. It's solid and heavy.
Antec cases come with a parts manifest as well.
blackhawk said:
It's a real clean layout. Power harnesses run behind a steel inner panel for better shielding, out of sight and out of the way.
Plenty of cooling with the ability to expand cooling if needed. It's solid and heavy.
Antec cases come with a parts manifest as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh cool, will look into that when needed !
Noe367 said:
Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gaming wise, GPU should be a priority
multi-tasking wise, buy the newest intel gen 10 or 11 also you can opt for AMD
Core i5 11th gen is a wise option
ryzen 5 3600 still good too
you'll need cpu and motherboard too