Database Users

loosing connection when getting hot

Hi all,
my Ameo has the following problem:
When leaving the device in the car without AirCo running (eg customer visit) it gets warmer than usually....
When I'm back and trying to phone with the Ameo it is loosing the connection. This takes some time until AirCo was cooling down the car (and the Ameo). Afterwards its is running normally.
Who knows about that ?
Dieter

imho thats a normal reaction and this could also happen to any other electric device when getting too hot.
why don't you take it with you ?

hi mojo,
but there is a little difference between warm and too hot ;-)
I'd say warm with approx. 35-40° - too hot means in my eyes 50° and more...
Dieter

60C is the maximum Dopod says the battery can handle. But it doesn't mean you will get optimal operation from the device. It will overheat and fail.
(This happens to all electronic equipment and it is up the each individual to protect it properly.)
With the temperature reaching 60C the battery will discharge at approximately double speed, and also shorten the lifespan of the device by about 50%.
They strongly suggest that you never operate the device in higher temperatures than 45C for any prolonged time.
Do not leave the device exposed to direct sunlight inside a car, on a table at home etc. It will overheat and potentially fail.

You wouldn't leave your children or your pet in the car when it's that hot. So why do you leave the PocketPC in there? Even the thought of doing this gives me headaches.

Mine actually fails to take a charge when it is just sitting in the cradle doing TomTom stuff whilst I drive with aircon on but I am in Spain and the sunlight though the screen does make it very hot. I am having to reposition it or try to duct some aircon to it. It is slightly more sensitive to heat than my previous ones, but it also does MUCH MUCH more so like me, in future, try to protect it

[Q] Battery Drain

I´ve just come back from a two month expedition on Borneo. But when i got back to civilization and turned on my trusty N1 I quickly realized that my battery performance has dropped significantly. Before I usually had one day of heavy use (including Wifi, 3G, tethering and GPS usage), but now I only have about 7 hours standby with everything except GSM turned off. Which renders the phone useless for my (normal) use. The phone actually consumes so much power that the battery level drops while charging. The only way to charge it up is to turn the phone completely off.
I flashed the RoDrIgUeZsTyLe™ MIUIMOD -ROM before I left for my trip, so I thought maybe that was the problem (some bug i the kernel or something), so i flashed back to CM6 with no success. I have also tried a new battery.
Anyone knows what can be the cause?
All help is deeply appreciated --- I miss my good old N1!
I accidentally placed this in the wrong section - can anybody move it to Q&A?

Try the battery app in my sig to pull your battery values, then post in that thread and one of us can help you see what's happening with your battery.

maybe the charger is the problem?
Just throwing it out there... I've seen it happen for Laptop users...

Try the battery app in my sig to pull your battery values, then post in that thread and one of us can help you see what's happening with your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage (mV): 4035.84
Current (mA): -464.98
Temp (C): 30.2
Percent: 90
Batt age: 94
Full40(mAh): 1452
Min Chg Curr(mA):80
Min Chg Volt(mV): 4099
Empty Curr (mA):200.0
Empty Volt (mV): 3.426
Capacity(mAh):1273
Aged Capa(mAh): 1393
BTW...I have also tried several different chargers without any success.

Hi,
I had similar problems with my rooted N1 with stock Froyo.
The problem for me was a radio image older than regular. Baseband version should be something _4.06 or higher.
You can check this information in Settings ->About Phone
Sent from my Nexus One

Fulvio Minichini said:
Hi,
I had similar problems with my rooted N1 with stock Froyo.
The problem for me was a radio image older than regular. Baseband version should be something _4.06 or higher.
You can check this information in Settings ->About Phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got 32.41.00.32U_5.08.00.04 so it doesn't seem to be old, but I'll try to update the radio anyway with a custom stock rom from modaco. Will let you guys know if it helps
Update: I'm now back at *****_4.06****. No change

My first thought is: what level of power did you leave your battery with before you went away?
Lithium batteries are permanently damaged if the voltage drops below a certain level. Leakage will mean that any battery left for a while will lose charge.
Therefore, if you leave a battery with close to zero power left for a long time, leakage can mean the charge level drops below the critical minimum level and the cells become damaged.
As such, it is recommended to never store lithium batteries with below 40% charge, and to store them in a cool environment, since leakage is faster at higher temperatures.

Yeah, that was my first thought too, since I forgot to turn it off before I left (the phone was stored in a room with AC at least). However, I have now gotten a new battery and it doesn't help...
I have tried to check if there are any programs that are running in the background that draw unnecessary power, but i cant find any ---at least not with system panel. The cpu-load also seem to be normal.

Anyone got some ideas?

Thats really wierd... The only thing you can do is reflash the radio and flash it to stock. Then use the new battery and charge it overnight - so it overcharges slightly. Let it totally drain till the phone turns off, and repeat a coupla of times. Ignore the levels reported by the phone.
See if it starts to behave normally after that. If not you either have another dud battery or there's something wrong with the charging circuit in your phone.
If you have a friend with an N1, you could try charging your respective batteries in your phones, then swap batteries. See how much time each phone lasts

Thanks for the tip.
I'll try that before I buy a new cellphone.

Still having charging issues with 4.2.2

I'm really frustrated because i really used to love the n7 so much I was an early adopter and bought another one after I dropped my first and then went on to buy my girlfriend one. But after being plagued with this issue and stuck on 4.1 its just not the same anymore since I cant flash custom roms all day :/
I've been having a charging issue with android 4.2.1 since it came out (both stock and all the roms I tried) but I noticed that whenever I reverted to 4.1.2 the issue went away completely. So I've been waiting for 4.2.2 to come out for a while now to see if it fixed the issue and after flashing the update tonight it seems to have the same problem.
I've tried searching for months now and haven't found any answers.
So this is the issue with both 4.2.1 and 4.2.2:
The battery charges at an insanely slow pace to the point that it ruins the tablet completely. I'll plug it in over night for 8+ hours and it will not gain more then 40% battery life in that time.
Its to the point that when I was just using it right now on the charger with brightness turned all the way down and nothing on other then sync and WiFi that light web browsing for 10 mins caused it to discharge a percent after being plugged in for 19 minutes.
Notes:
Its a c70 16gb
I tried 3 different stock N7 chargers with stock cables as well as trying them with other cables.
I'm not plugged into any kind of extension cords and I've tried multiple wall sockets at different locations.
My girlfriends nexus 7 32g charges fine on 4.2.1 and I have not updated her to 4.2.2 to test yet.
I haven't checked the battery connection because like I said whenever I revert to stock 4.1.2 or any 4.1.2 rom it charges in 4 hours flat or 6 hours with heavy usage while charging.
So anyone have any ideas? If not I guess I have to rma.

Do both, yours and your girlfriend's devices take that long to charge?

sl4y3r88 said:
Do both, yours and your girlfriend's devices take that long to charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope her nexus 7 charges fine. ( a little slower on 4.2 then 4.1 but nothing like mine)

Her nexus does have issues with turning on sometimes on 4.2.1 like a lot of other users but its nothing holding the power button for 10 seconds doesn't fix.

It also just noticed it seems to discharge at an extremely fast pace. (still on 4.2.2)
It just dropped from 55% to 51% in the time I've typed these responses with brightness all the way down.

So anyone want to try and help me figure this out before I send it in friday? I called it in to Google play device support to try and report the software bug and they said its the first they heard of it and they would pass it on but I felt like the rep didnt want to help as I bought it from a third party. I'm willing to do any tests suggested and hop between software versions to try and figure out this bug.

Why do you think it is a "software bug" when millions of people running the "same software" don't experience the same behavior?
I realize that software can exhibit data-dependent behaviors, and thus exhibit low occurrence rates... but there is no "software" involved in charging the battery.
Do you think a booted Linux kernel is needed to charge a battery? How would the battery get charged when the device is turned off in that case? C'mon!
Send it back and tell them the battery (or charge contoller CIRCUIT) is defective.
If it's out of warranty, PAY them to replace it.

bftb0 said:
Why do you think it is a "software bug" when millions of people running the "same software" don't experience the same behavior?
I realize that software can exhibit data-dependent behaviors, and thus exhibit low occurrence rates... but there is no "software" involved in charging the battery.
Do you think a booted Linux kernel is needed to charge a battery? How would the battery get charged when the device is turned off in that case? C'mon!
Send it back and tell them the battery (or charge contoller CIRCUIT) is defective.
If it's out of warranty, PAY them to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then how do you explain that if right now I flash back to 4.1.2 it will work fine? If you want I'll provide screenshots.
I just flashed back to 4.1.2 this morning and it worked perfectly. Just now I flashed codefires 4.2.2 build and the problems back.
Please explain how that is hardware related.

I may of jumped the gun assuming it was a charging issue. It seems like it might be a battery drain issue. Here's a couple screenshots from a fresh install of codefirex 4.2.2 build.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app

All I was trying to say is that when the OS is booted, at most all it does is monitor battery voltage and current - it doesn't get actively involved in control of charging circuitry.
At most this historical data can be used to *predict* when the battery will run out of juice, and this number is what is shown to the user as a % charge number. Hopefully that allows the prediction to be sort of correct as the battery ages and it's characteristics change.
This "calibration data" is only used for prediction - it does absolutely nothing to alter the rate at which current is drawn from the battery by the motherboard, nor for attempting to alter the behavior of a battery charge controller.
Li-Ion and Li-Polymer batteries are indeed complicated enough that they should not be charged by extremely simple circuits if a long operating lifetime is desired. For this purpose though, monolithic battery charge controllers chips are used - they do not need any assistance of a micro-controller or advanced CPU running a modern OS. That's why they are able to charge batteries rapidly and appropriately when the motherboard is in a "powered down" state.
Relative to a big multi-core CPU chip, which might have hundreds of millions of transistors, battery charge controllers are extremely small circuits - they are sold by the billions and cost in the ballpark of one to several pennies. They don't need the support of a CPU or even a microcontroller to operate correctly.
Good luck with your tab; I hope you enjoy it.

bftb0 said:
All I was trying to say is that when the OS is booted, at most all it does is monitor battery voltage and current - it doesn't get actively involved in control of charging circuitry.
At most this historical data can be used to *predict* when the battery will run out of juice, and this number is what is shown to the user as a % charge number. Hopefully that allows the prediction to be sort of correct as the battery ages and it's characteristics change.
This "calibration data" is only used for prediction - it does absolutely nothing to alter the rate at which current is drawn from the battery by the motherboard, nor for attempting to alter the behavior of a battery charge controller.
Li-Ion and Li-Polymer batteries are indeed complicated enough that they should not be charged by extremely simple circuits if a long operating lifetime is desired. For this purpose though, monolithic battery charge controllers chips are used - they do not need any assistance of a micro-controller or advanced CPU running a modern OS. That's why they are able to charge batteries rapidly and appropriately when the motherboard is in a "powered down" state.
Relative to a big multi-core CPU chip, which might have hundreds of millions of transistors, battery charge controllers are extremely small circuits - they are sold by the billions and cost in the ballpark of one to several pennies. They don't need the support of a CPU or even a microcontroller to operate correctly.
Good luck with your tab; I hope you enjoy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for taking the time to write out this detailed explanation. I read it over a couple times and that all makes a lot of sense and now I have a little better understanding of how things work charging wise.
But I still can't wrap my head around how the problem DISAPPEARS COMPLETELY on any 4.1 based build...
I'm not trying to contradict you in anyway it seems like you are way more knowledgeable then me on the subject.
It just doesn't make any sense and I was hoping you could make more of it for me.
Maybe it isn't the charging but a battery drain issue something on 4.2 based builds is draining more current then the charger can dish out.
But while i was doing research I read that chargers up the current they dish out if the device is in use. Is that correct?
I've looked into the media server bug but as I just did a fresh install of stock 4.2.1 and haven't changed or added anything to the file structure that wasn't included in the factory image, I also went through and turned off the keyboard press sound and all other sounds like explained in some of the threads I have read. I also read that the problem is supposed to be fixed in 4.2.2. I also haven't installed any apps from the market.
I guess all I'm looking for is the answer to this question:
Could there really be a hardware related problem of any sort (not just charging and battery problems but anything) that causes problems with 4.2 based builds specifically but doesn't cause problems with 4.1?
If the answer is yes then I don't have to feel bad about sending it in but if its software based issues I'll be upset that I wasn't able to fix it and gave up.

Have you let the battery drain all the way or do you just plug it in at a certain point? if not let it get to the point were it will turn itself off. if the battery with the cross in it stays for more than it would take for 1% to drain then it just might be your battery stats file. even if its not let it drain and then charge it while its off. you can check the battery by pushing the power button quick. i know i have had this problem with other devices that were fixed by doing this. and my N7 did it last night were i updated and plugged it in, it was at 60% and when i woke up it was at 46%.

projectzro said:
Have you let the battery drain all the way or do you just plug it in at a certain point? if not let it get to the point were it will turn itself off. if the battery with the cross in it stays for more than it would take for 1% to drain then it just might be your battery stats file. even if its not let it drain and then charge it while its off. you can check the battery by pushing the power button quick. i know i have had this problem with other devices that were fixed by doing this. and my N7 did it last night were i updated and plugged it in, it was at 60% and when i woke up it was at 46%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give this a try right now then post results, the battery is already pretty low so It shouldn't take very long. Thanks for the response.

projectzro said:
Have you let the battery drain all the way or do you just plug it in at a certain point? if not let it get to the point were it will turn itself off. if the battery with the cross in it stays for more than it would take for 1% to drain then it just might be your battery stats file. even if its not let it drain and then charge it while its off. you can check the battery by pushing the power button quick. i know i have had this problem with other devices that were fixed by doing this. and my N7 did it last night were i updated and plugged it in, it was at 60% and when i woke up it was at 46%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I let it run dry and am getting some weird behavior...
The dead battery symbol did not pop at all. It actually booted played the low battery sound half way through the nexus logo loaded into the OS and immediately was greeted by the battery to low logo powering down message and then it returned off. It did this cycle all the way through three times in a row before holding the power button did nothing. I let it sit for a minute before trying again and I got another boot out of it all the way to the OS again. But I've yet to be greeted by the battery with the cross symbol. Holding the power button will do the cycle described above or do nothing at all.

krisserapin said:
But while i was doing research I read that chargers up the current they dish out if the device is in use. Is that correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the 120v->5v converter certainly can be providing more current @5v because the device is active, but that's only because the motherboard is drawing current in parallel with the battery charging circuit. It doesn't mean the battery charge rate is higher.
krisserapin said:
Could there really be a hardware related problem of any sort (not just charging and battery problems but anything) that causes problems with 4.2 based builds specifically but doesn't cause problems with 4.1?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose so.
I would do a few things to determine whether that is a reasonable hypotheses, though.
1) See how fast the battery charges with the tablet turned off. Should be close to 40%/hour for a new battery. You know there is no "software" running with the tablet turned off, so if you don't see some reasonable number here (say > 20%/hr) then a bad battery or charge controller circuit in the tab are the most likely culprits. Also, if the temperature rise of the tablet while doing this seems higher than the gf's unit, that would implicate the battery, not the charging circuit.
2) There's software, and then there's software. (Preinstalled vs. User installed) Run the battery down a ways, and then observe the battery charging rate with the device on but screen off (sleeping), but on a stock 4.2 install with ZERO user apps installed. Then, install/restore all your favorite apps, reboot, maybe use a couple of your fave apps, and repeat the same charge rate trial (screen off/sleeping). Are there large differences between the two cases? If so, that would implicate one of your apps in causing either lots of additional compute operations or preventing entry into the LP0 state (perhaps because of wakelocks?)
The thing is, the N7 battery is rated at 4325 mAh; that is sort of the same thing as 4.325 amps of current for 1 hour. (Voltage range of roughly 4v to 3.5v).
So, if a "good battery" can be charged in 2.5hrs, that is sort of like stuffing 1.73 amps into the battery for that time (1.73 x 2.5 = 4.325 A-h or 4325 mA-h). That's pretty near to the max capacity of the AC charger (2A)
Now, some users have reported discharging their tabs in 4 hours under heavy continuous use; that would be about 1.08 amps for 4 hours.
Since the wall charger is rated to produce 2A, this suggests that very heavy usage simultaneous with charging would indeed cause battery charging to slow down significantly - let's suppose it drops from 1.73a to 0.65a. Now it takes the battery 6.6hrs to charge ... but that is still just over 15%/hr ... with the tab in active use.
But that's not what you were noticing - you were seeing much worse charge rates than this when the tablet was supposed to be more or less idle!
Finally I should point out that I previously mentioned that the % charge number is a prediction, not a measurement! If for some reason this number were screwed up, then the "charge rate" observations could be completely screwed up. (Think of this as being analogous to trying to partially fill a gas tank in a car or estimate fuel mileage with a broken gas gauge) The only way to be sure that you are not falling victim to something like this is to record battery voltages - the 100% level should be up around 4v, and the 10% values down around 3.5v.
You can observe this value at /sys/devices/platform/tegra-i2c.4/i2c-4/4-0055/power_supply/battery/voltage_now
(note value is reported in uV)
Whew - long post. It doesn't directly answer your question about "why was 4.1 so different?" - but gives you an idea about why I was skeptical when you saw charging rates as low as you did.
I dunno, maybe the % charge prediction value numbers are screwy on your tab for some strange reason in 4.2, perhaps because of a minor hardware difference. I can't rule it out - I once saw a bug expression in a hardware/software combination that required three independent conditions (from three separate vendors!) to have precise configurations before the bug would show itself.
I hope this post gives you some ideas to try; it certainly doesn't give a solution.
Good luck - if you feel like spending more time investigating, go for it; just don't let the clock run out on the warranty period if you have one left.

bftb0 said:
Well, the 120v->5v converter certainly can be providing more current @5v because the device is active, but that's only because the motherboard is drawing current in parallel with the battery charging circuit. It doesn't mean the battery charge rate is higher.
I suppose so.
I would do a few things to determine whether that is a reasonable hypotheses, though.
1) See how fast the battery charges with the tablet turned off. Should be close to 40%/hour for a new battery. You know there is no "software" running with the tablet turned off, so if you don't see some reasonable number here (say > 20%/hr) then a bad battery or charge controller circuit in the tab are the most likely culprits. Also, if the temperature rise of the tablet while doing this seems higher than the gf's unit, that would implicate the battery, not the charging circuit.
2) There's software, and then there's software. (Preinstalled vs. User installed) Run the battery down a ways, and then observe the battery charging rate with the device on but screen off (sleeping), but on a stock 4.2 install with ZERO user apps installed. Then, install/restore all your favorite apps, reboot, maybe use a couple of your fave apps, and repeat the same charge rate trial (screen off/sleeping). Are there large differences between the two cases? If so, that would implicate one of your apps in causing either lots of additional compute operations or preventing entry into the LP0 state (perhaps because of wakelocks?)
The thing is, the N7 battery is rated at 4325 mAh; that is sort of the same thing as 4.325 amps of current for 1 hour. (Voltage range of roughly 4v to 3.5v).
So, if a "good battery" can be charged in 2.5hrs, that is sort of like stuffing 1.73 amps into the battery for that time (1.73 x 2.5 = 4.325 A-h or 4325 mA-h). That's pretty near to the max capacity of the AC charger (2A)
Now, some users have reported discharging their tabs in 4 hours under heavy continuous use; that would be about 1.08 amps for 4 hours.
Since the wall charger is rated to produce 2A, this suggests that very heavy usage simultaneous with charging would indeed cause battery charging to slow down significantly - let's suppose it drops from 1.73a to 0.65a. Now it takes the battery 6.6hrs to charge ... but that is still just over 15%/hr ... with the tab in active use.
But that's not what you were noticing - you were seeing much worse charge rates than this when the tablet was supposed to be more or less idle!
Finally I should point out that I previously mentioned that the % charge number is a prediction, not a measurement! If for some reason this number were screwed up, then the "charge rate" observations could be completely screwed up. (Think of this as being analogous to trying to partially fill a gas tank in a car or estimate fuel mileage with a broken gas gauge) The only way to be sure that you are not falling victim to something like this is to record battery voltages - the 100% level should be up around 4v, and the 10% values down around 3.5v.
You can observe this value at /sys/devices/platform/tegra-i2c.4/i2c-4/4-0055/power_supply/battery/voltage_now
(note value is reported in uV)
Whew - long post. It doesn't directly answer your question about "why was 4.1 so different?" - but gives you an idea about why I was skeptical when you saw charging rates as low as you did.
I dunno, maybe the % charge prediction value numbers are screwy on your tab for some strange reason in 4.2, perhaps because of a minor hardware difference. I can't rule it out - I once saw a bug expression in a hardware/software combination that required three independent conditions (from three separate vendors!) to have precise configurations before the bug would show itself.
I hope this post gives you some ideas to try; it certainly doesn't give a solution.
Good luck - if you feel like spending more time investigating, go for it; just don't let the clock run out on the warranty period if you have one left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow thank you so much for the help. I'll play around with this tonight and see what happens. If I can't figure it out by the morning I think I'll be able to RMA it without feeling like I just rolled over and let my n7 get the best of me.

So after charging it on stock 4.2.1 with the power completely off it only charged 3% in a little over a hour and voltages read 3.6. I'm gonna leave it on the charger over night turned on starting from 3% with only two extra battery monitoring apps installed and report back in the morning with screenshots of the results. After that ill probably revert to 4.1.2 drain the battery fully, charge it off for an hour report the values then let it charge fully with the battery apps on for reference take a few more screenshots then lock the bootloader install the ota and ship it off to good old ASUS since it sounds like its hardware from whats been explained.

FWIW, I drained my N7 last night (LOL, typing novels into XDA threads) - when I finished I was at 6% charge - that was 3.66v. In the morning @ 100%, the battery voltage was 4.1-something.
Sounds to me like you've definitely got a hardware problem.
Good luck with the RMA.

Canyou help me?
Since I flashed 4.2.2 my 240V-USB charger only cahrges thes battery about 5% in one hour.
Before (with 4.2.1) It was definitely faster. It charged more tha 5% per hour (maybe 20-25%).
I double checked the plug in the socket. checked the correct fit of the USB cable on the docking station.
Everything fits tight. No wiggle.
It must be software related, since it started after flashing the OTA zip from 4.2.1 to 4.2.2

Polarfuchs said:
Canyou help me?
Since I flashed 4.2.2 my 240V-USB charger only cahrges thes battery about 5% in one hour.
Before (with 4.2.1) It was definitely faster. It charged more tha 5% per hour (maybe 20-25%).
I double checked the plug in the socket. checked the correct fit of the USB cable on the docking station.
Everything fits tight. No wiggle.
It must be software related, since it started after flashing the OTA zip from 4.2.1 to 4.2.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From a partially charged state, say below 50%, turn the device off, (NOT sleeping, but powered OFF) and put it on the charger for one hour.
It should charge at around 30-40%/hr.
As I pointed out above, how is it possible that software would be affecting the charging with the device turned OFF?
I believe you are seeing exactly what you report; my best guess is that a hardware problem occurred just about coincidentally with your upgrade. Just coincidence - not causation.
You also should inspect the battery voltage (see above for path in /sys) in case something crazy is happening with the %charge *prediction* (it is not a measurement) - because the total charging range is from about 3.65v-4.15v, a normal charge rate should be roughly 150 to 200 mV/hr
good luck

Xtrons Android head unit reboots on acc/ignition

Hey people,
I have a rather complicated question on which I like some kind of clarification or even a solution.
Some information about my car:
Chevrolet Aveo5 2010 model T250
The manual says it needs a 430CCA battery
I had a Xtrons te706pl px5 head unit installed in my car last summer. It worked great and always got out of the standby mode when starting the car.
Then when it got to the of September/start of october. It started cold booting for some reason.
I didn't think anything of it and thought it was a software related issue. So I bought a small subwoofer
(Kenwood ksc sw11). I then went back to the shop where I got it installed and they updated the unit to the latest Android 9 update at the time (this was mid November). And tested the car battery. Which showed to only have 330 CCA left. They told me that my battery was probably the reason it rebooted all the time. Since that sounded reasonably to me since the manual says I need 430CCA I bought a new battery last week. A 400A (EN) Bosch S3 003.
This actually changed did kind of fix the problem but I'm not sure.
If I drive and then leave my car for a short time and come back the radio will get out of standby fine.
(Which didn't happen with the old battery. That one would restart the radio if I only left my car for like 5-10 minutes)
However when I leave if for like an entire day or over night the radio still reboots.
Sleep setting is set to Auto btw.
I also tested this while disconnecting the subwoofer over night and it still rebooted. So it's not like the subwoofer is the difference.
I have multiple theories and I want to know which one is correct.
1.
The radio is software is broken which causes my radio to not stay in standby for longer than X amount of time even tho the sleep setting is set to Auto.
2.
The cars alternator is broken causing it to not deliver the constant 12v the radio needs.
3. (Which I think is the most plausible)
The car battery doesn't deliver enough Amps on ignition to turn of the engine as well as the radio. Basically cutting of the radio's energy causing it to dip below 10v and causing it to lose power.
The reason that in the summer the radio did turn on with a worse battery might be because the hot temps cause the car to need less Power to start which in turn means the radio isn't cut off of power. (This could explain why the old battery was able to start the radio out of standby modus with in between 330 and 430CCA.
If theory 3 is true then I would need a bigger battery so that even in the colder winter (-3 to 10 degrees Celsius) my radio still boots out of standby. In that case how much CCA and Ah do I need. Since I have a problem because of the ****ty nature of my car where the plus pole needs to be on the left when the poles are facing yourself. I haven't come across a car battery thats the same size as the Bosch S3 003 that I have now but have more than 400CCA)
Wider ones don't fit the plateau which holds the battery. And my connectors for the battery can't reach taller than the 190mm batteries.
If it's not theory 3 but either 1 or 2 then please give me some tips/advice about further actions I could take. Maybe a secondary battery or something I don't know.
Could anyone help me with this problem?
If you need more information I'm more then happy to give it.

There are some voltage stabilizers available on Aliexpress, you may benefit from one of those.

embalu said:
There are some voltage stabilizers available on Aliexpress, you may benefit from one of those.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly does a voltage stabilizer do? And are they difficult to install?

Standby battery drain

I recently installed an Android head unit type YT9216CJ and figured it sucks around 500mA of current constantly. So it only took 3 days for my car battery to run flat. It seems high standby battery drain is quite common amongst Android head units. Don´r really get why as my Android phone and tablet only use around 20mA or less in standby. I assume the Android head units don´t shut down the power amp and other units while in stand-by.
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks

Either headunit has been incorrectly installed (such as swapping b+ and ACC) or the unit is defective.

TruePlaya1977 said:
I recently installed an Android head unit type YT9216CJ and figured it sucks around 500mA of current constantly. So it only took 3 days for my car battery to run flat. It seems high standby battery drain is quite common amongst Android head units. Don´r really get why as my Android phone and tablet only use around 20mA or less in standby. I assume the Android head units don´t shut down the power amp and other units while in stand-by.
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, if you are able to measure the current, you also should be able to measure the power on clamp 15 and clamp 30 of your unit.
If you have a look at your installation guide, you should see the battery plus and the ACC.
Your measurement shows clearly that you need to swap the yellow and the red wire on your connection.
In deep sleep, the unit should not take more than around 12-15mA. A really good one just takes 7mA. It clearly shows, that your unit get rid of the battery plus and keeps Android awake. This is the clear picture I see.
500mA is the Android board without any other stuff. If the PA would not get of, the current would be more than 2A instead of 500mA.
So check the connection in the installation guide and measure the pins with and without ACC.

rigattoni said:
Well, if you are able to measure the current, you also should be able to measure the power on clamp 15 and clamp 30 of your unit.
If you have a look at your installation guide, you should see the battery plus and the ACC.
Your measurement shows clearly that you need to swap the yellow and the red wire on your connection.
In deep sleep, the unit should not take more than around 12-15mA. A really good one just takes 7mA. It clearly shows, that your unit get rid of the battery plus and keeps Android awake. This is the clear picture I see.
500mA is the Android board without any other stuff. If the PA would not get of, the current would be more than 2A instead of 500mA.
So check the connection in the installation guide and measure the pins with and without ACC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using the vendor provided harness for my Ford Focus MK2. ACC an BAT+ are correctly wired. I can simulate ACC and BAT+ with my bench supply and I get the same picture. display and music turns off after ACC loss but power draw ist constantly around 500mA. I rather think that either sleep mode is implemented sloppy or some system components are not put to standby at all.
A quick google reveals that a lot of people experience the same problem with their Chinese Android head unts. So I assume this must be a construction flaw. Hence my question are there head units that go into standby correctly? Maybe some name brands?

TruePlaya1977 said:
I am using the vendor provided harness for my Ford Focus MK2. ACC an BAT+ are correctly wired. I can simulate ACC and BAT+ with my bench supply and I get the same picture. display and music turns off after ACC loss but power draw ist constantly around 500mA. I rather think that either sleep mode is implemented sloppy or some system components are not put to standby at all.
A quick google reveals that a lot of people experience the same problem with their Chinese Android head unts. So I assume this must be a construction flaw. Hence my question are there head units that go into standby correctly? Maybe some name brands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So even on bench testing, without connected external Amp and other stuff, shows up with 500mA in standby?
It takes about 1min to reach deep sleep, but I guess you waited that long for sleep mode.
500mA should be the exact consumption the Android system would take without screen, just in operating mode. Screen, music and all this stuff is NOT controlled by Android, it´s controlled by the system-board.
I just think that the screen backlight is switched off, so you just think it´s off. Check that.
Check the CAN settings.
I just know installations which are not done correctly, so Clamp 15 and 30 wrong, or CAN settings incorrect. I never heard of any unit which had a hardware issue which leads to this high current.
There are a lot of different supplier who sell better units.
Joying as example and the derivatives. --> https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/fyt-android-head-units.12445/

rigattoni said:
So even on bench testing, without connected external Amp and other stuff, shows up with 500mA in standby?
It takes about 1min to reach deep sleep, but I guess you waited that long for sleep mode.
500mA should be the exact consumption the Android system would take without screen, just in operating mode. Screen, music and all this stuff is NOT controlled by Android, it´s controlled by the system-board.
I just think that the screen backlight is switched off, so you just think it´s off. Check that.
Check the CAN settings.
I just know installations which are not done correctly, so Clamp 15 and 30 wrong, or CAN settings incorrect. I never heard of any unit which had a hardware issue which leads to this high current.
There are a lot of different supplier who sell better units.
Joying as example and the derivatives. --> https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/fyt-android-head-units.12445/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes exactly, just the unit on its own with GPS-antenna connected. I´ve waited for half an hour and still around 500mA draw. No CAN bus adapter on my unit. It´s a real pity as I do like the unit generally. But no use if battery gets depleted within 3 days.
I am wondering if anybody else took standby drain measuements on their units. And what the findings are.

TruePlaya1977 said:
Yes exactly, just the unit on its own with GPS-antenna connected. I´ve waited for half an hour and still around 500mA draw. No CAN bus adapter on my unit. It´s a real pity as I do like the unit generally. But no use if battery gets depleted within 3 days.
I am wondering if anybody else took standby drain measuements on their units. And what the findings are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can say for myself, as I measure all new head units before they get installed in the car.
...and even one is always connected to my power supply which shows the numbers in mA.
That badest one was a PX5 from 2018/19, don´t remember exactly, but this one took about 26mA in sleep mode.
The PX6 which I am using now eat up 4mA in deep sleep. That I am not using a Joying is just model-related, as they don´t provide the screen-movement like I wanted to have.
Checked that with my oscilloscope.

TruePlaya1977 said:
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you see this?

dedalos91 said:
have you see this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have. My unit did not come with a CAN bus adapter as my steering controls are old fashion resistive type.

rigattoni said:
I can say for myself, as I measure all new head units before they get installed in the car.
...and even one is always connected to my power supply which shows the numbers in mA.
That badest one was a PX5 from 2018/19, don´t remember exactly, but this one took about 26mA in sleep mode.
The PX6 which I am using now eat up 4mA in deep sleep. That I am not using a Joying is just model-related, as they don´t provide the screen-movement like I wanted to have.
Checked that with my oscilloscope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK thanks for the info. Good th know there are units out there with decent standby drain. My unit was quite cheap so I am guessig reason for its low price is that it comes with some issues. Will investigate further on my bench. For now the old stereo went back into the car

what MCU version is in the system? I have a 3-year-old 9218DH and an old MCU 3.1, and the sleeper works fine. Even though the car was parked for a whole week, the unit was put to sleep. After turning the key, it started up in about 1-2 seconds and remembered everything when I stopped the car. It should be updated to MCU 4.0, but there is no time. The truth is that I have canbus connected. Sleep controls the mcu

I´ve found a solution that lets me choose if I want the head unit to go to sleep mode (standby draw around 15mA) or shut down (standby draw around 1mA).
Here is a short description on how to change sleep mode settings in Android Head Unit:
1. Go to Factory Settings in Car settings
2. Enter Password "8888"
3. Select "Engineering Test Debugging"
4. Enter Password "26959910"
5. Select which mode suits best
5.1 User Mode = Only screen goes off after ACC loss, standby power draw is around 500mA
5.2 Direct sleep mode = phone goes to sleep after ACC loss, standby power draw is around 15mA
5.3 Sleep then restart mode = phone goes to sleep after ACC loss (dont know difference to Direct sleep mode), standby power draw is around 15mA
5.4 Direct shutdown mode = Powers down head unit after ACC loss (will do cold boot after ACC on), standby power draw is around 1mA
6. Press OK and leave factory settings
This did it for me.