Database Users

AC Charging problem with original charger & new battery

Hi!
I had a battery probelm (same one everyone else seemed to get with there 1yr old uni) where it cuts out at 60% due to the voltage from the battery dropping below the threshold really fast.
Anyway I got a new battery .. my old one was 1650ma (or something like that) I got this new one which is 1750ma (or something like that).. definitely different.
Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on .. I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?
Could it be something to do with my new battery?? I got it from PDAAddons and they've always been good in the past so I believe I can rule out it being a fake.
My new battery is a Li-on Poly.. I've got to admit I didn't look at my old one to see if that was a poly too ... was definitely a li-on though.
I can live with using my moto charger on my exec but unfortunately the ac adapter for my cradle is of a different connector type (female pin sleeve thingy like nokia) so before I search the world for a 5v 550ma version I could do with knowing if i'm barking up the wrong tree and about to waste my money..
Any electronics whizzes in the house say ho!

anyone? :''-(

Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps

kecido said:
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm gunna buy another 5v 1a charger .. I've had it reported that this cradle charger (5v 1a) doesn't work properly anyway so it may be 2 seperate problems here Thanks for you advice fella much appreciated

Charging anomaly, workaround
vbJoe said:
...Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you absotively, posilutely certain the AMBER charge light comes on fully?
I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is some anomaly about charging with a plug-in charger. You may have to turn the device on so that it can recognize the charger, then close it and let it turn itself off; or perhaps it's turn it off then on, I'm not sure, but I've encountered similar oddities with both 110v, 220v, and 12v chargers, and I've seen discussion about this anomaly on this and/or other fora. Once you get the AMBER light, you're fine (as long as it's putting out at least +5v; +5.5 is better).
I think it has something to do with its looking for a [non-existent] USB signal along with the voltage under some conditions, but not others, but that's just a wild guess. Anyway, I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with your battery, device, or charger. Hope this helps. Cheers,

Thanks for the reply, I'm 100% that the amber light turns on. Not only that the screen brightens so it definitely knows its connected. I've tried several combinations of turning it off/on etc during the charge/before but nothing seems to make this desktop charger actually put anything in the battery.

Is swapping fully charged batteries better than recharging in-phone?

I bought an extra battery and charger on my Evo and noticed that recently, my Evo battery is now performing WORSE than the cheap Chinese generic knockoff battery.
The Chinese one use to run about 1 - 1.5days but now runs over 2 days (thanks to new kernel by HTC).
However, the red battery which used to give me 2 - 2.5 days run time (on older kernel), now only runs for 12hrs.
Any ideas?

Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.

Go into a battery program, spareparts or batteryinfo widget, and see if they are charging to the same voltage. I have several htc batteries with all about the same use, I have 2 of them that are almost a 100mv lower then the others so I "top" them off by unplugging and replugging them in a few times while charging.

sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.

I have 2 batteries, the red one, and one that came with my Hero. I charge them in the cheap charger and rarely actually charge the phone.
I see no difference in battery life.

the whole quick charge tech is no good, my $4 chinese charger (no quick charge crap) works way better then charging in phone, i had an older laptop, one of the first to claim quick charge, with a battery that was wearing down about maybe 90-60min got an external charger that charges slowly and managed to recondition the already 4yr old battery to run 3hrs but went back to charging on laptop and battery slowly ran down again to about 1hr

On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape

cruecu said:
Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same id have to agree with this !

to clarify, the chargers i use are external not a phone charger, i wouldnt use a cheap charger on any of my phones

sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i never charge from the phone anymore. I just use the phone till it dies and then swap with a fresh ly charged battery. I charge both of them in the cheap charger.
I was thinking that maybe the phone battery recalibration got whacked? Just a guess.

Any battery charges better with a lower amp charge period. I charge my deep cell boat batteries at the beginning of the season on 2 amp trickle charge. I have had them for 10 years now. Way over the life expectancy. I charge my evo batteries on a 400 milli amp wall charger. Way better charge and they charge 100% everytime.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Okay, I'm convinced. I'm slow charging mine in an external charger.

treckin said:
On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to go off topic but you typed all this on your evo? Does your finger hurt?
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

short circuited my note

Hi everyone,
First of all, I apologize in advance,
1. Because I know this isn't a tech support forum.
2. Because I don't contribute and help out as much as I should.
Coming here was a last resort, I don't consider myself a noob, but I'm really stuck here.
Please note that I appreciate every single response, and I will donate if anyone can give me a fix.
With that aside, let me get started
__________________________________
Okay so about a week ago, I accidentally bent my charger when it was charging my note.
It didn't charge at all that night
That morning, I blew into the charge port on my note, suspecting that dust may have been the cause.
Somehow, that helped, as my note charged fully that day, in about 2-3 hours
Then I tried charging it the next night.
It charged incredibly slowly, reaching about 70% after 10 hours charge
The next few nights were similar, but reaching no more than 40% charge after 10 hours.
It got progressively worse, it would only charge if I applied pressure to the mini-usb,
I looked around this morning, and stumbled across another guy with the same problem
(see here http://www.galaxynoteforum.net/galaxy-note-help/charging-port-issue/ )
He advised,
"Well I have figured out the issue. If you look into the charging port slot on the phone you will notice a small thin flat piece of metal which inserts into the charger. That was slanted and angled downward which would not let "ANY" charger or docking station charge correctly also causing it to drain the battery. Contacts on this piece and the phone were to close causing a minor contact draining power. I used a precision flathead screw driver and lifted the piece slightly and now works fine"
So I tried that, and it seemed to help, as the note began charging, (extremely slowly, reaching about 30%)
Then I tried pushing that "thin flat piece of metal up even further"
However, I went too far, and I couldn't fit the charger into the charge port.
So I tried pushing it back into the centre but I may have damaged one of the pins in the charge port (inside the phone)
I seen a little spark, and the note turned off.
I tried switching it on, and managed to boot to safe mode (no idea how)
So then I tried charging it, I applied pressure and managed to get it to start charging. (thank god)
This was about 30 mins ago, it looks to be holding the charge at about 20%, but it's not increasing
-----------------------------------------------------
I suspect one of the pins in the note charge port was snapped off.. although I'm not sure.. (it appears to be the one on the right)
1.Does anyone know how many pins there are on the charge port inside the note? (is it 4 or 5?)
2.What should I do?
If I broke a pin, it should not charge at all, right? (but it seems to be charging)
3. Do I need to replace the charge port, if so, how much would it cost?
4. Would I be better off getting a charging station, and charging the battery using that
5. Should I try moving the metal strip again? (inside the charge port of the note)
oops forgot to mention, when the problem started, and the note was slow-charging, an audible buzzing/humming could be heard in the wall outlet
also, I'm using my original samsung usb charger, not a generic one, and I'm charging directly into a wall outlet.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you for taking the time to read this, I really appreciate it, and any advise that you do offer.
Cyber735

Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS

there are 5 pins on the charger slot, 4 I believe are for data transfer and the 5th being the one that draws power (charges the phone)
Have you tried transferring data from PC to Phone and see how that pans out ?
Its possible to replace the USB port, Ive seen a few threads about this on XDA, A quick search should chuck out some results.
But as mentioned above, Try to claim under warranty first, if you have it, or pay the Service centre to do it if you dont feel confident enough to do it yourself.
I think I recall someone with a similar issue and it cost him / her $60 for USB replacement (convert that in to your currency)
If you have a friend with a Note or a phone that fits the Note's battery you could always charge your battery in that phone and place it into yours until you get it fixed.
IF YOU MUST charge your Note ( you could if you intend to get a new USB slot) I would suggest to charge only via USB - as in charging from your PC / Laptop / TV / PS3 etc. As this will not draw as much current as it would coming directly from the mains supply!
Good luck on getting it fixed, And please keep us posted with the results !

http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
check this out. It gives the pin configuration. I am no expert but hope it helps!

altae said:
Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
r
Thanks for the quick reply!
First of all, I can confirm that no pins are broken or bent, everything looks normal, it also seems to be charging better, as I centred the metal strip in the charge port.
As for warranty, well I didn't purchase any extended warranty or insurance, however, the standard warranty lasts 2 years.
Unfortunately
The Repair Warranty Exclusions are as follows: (i) Subject to the inclusions of the applicable manufacturer's warranty, a mobile that has broken down or is damaged as a result of: (a) abuse or tampering, (b) electrical damage, moisture, dampness, oxidation, corrosion or food, dirt or liquid ingress (c) accident, neglect, impact, actual or attempted theft, fire, power outages or surges, or incorrect voltage, (d) transportation or packaging (e) removable batteries or damage caused by battery leakage
Basically, the only thing that I'm covered for is "handset breakdown"
My phone is in perfect condition, and no pins are broken or bent (as discovered on closer inspection)
So do you class charging issues as "handset breakdown" or not?
I may purchase a new charger, just in case the issue is with the charger, and not the phone,
What d'ya think?

Thanks again for the quick replies azzledazzle & nipuna, I didn't notice them until now,
Yeah I'm 90% there's no damage to the pins on the charge port, and it seems to be charging now, slowly at least,
I've centered the metal strip as best as I can, (inside the charge port)
I'll leave it to charge now for a while, as I'm not sure if it's fixed or not
Then I'll try another charger if it doesn't work
If all else fails, I'll try getting it repaired under warranty
(although that's more of a last resort, as it will take a few weeks to get my phone back)
does anyone know if the standard galaxy s2 charger will work on the note?
I don't have it on me now, although I could borrow it from a friend
I know its an official samsung charger, although not sure if it's the usb or the other kind.
I'll let it charge for a while, then I'll try transferring data from the laptop, to make sure the pins are fine,
thanks for all your help everyone,

1st of all: if you go poking around in the usb port with a metal screwdriver, take out the battery first. Not only will it avoid shortcutting and maybe blow a fuse inside the phone, but it will also protect you from an exploding battery when shortcutted !

S2 charger will work
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium

Custom lollipop or kitkat rom? Bluetooth issue.

My Nexus 7 2012 is running CM12.1 nightly and while the performance is acceptable, charging is too slow (battery life is another issue) and bluetooth doesn't work properly. Is lollipop still too unstable for the Nexus7 and should I go back to kitkat roms? Or is the bluetooth problem inherited from the kitkat days? Or are there fixes/patches around?

No clue what you're talking about brother. Zero Bluetooth problems here, running xenon HD LP with F2FS patched in. Charging is slow because your USB port and battery are worn out by now. Both parts are very very affordable on amazon. I just replaced my battery with one from amazon that is actually slightly larger in capacity than the original.
Pop the case and check the Bluetooth antenna is getting proper connection to the gold spring pin contacts on the board. Be cautious as they are fragile, but can be slightly bent outward for a better contact point.
If you have a soldering iron I can show you how to repair the usb connector like I did, I didn't feel like buying a new one. Its a punched and pressed piece of potmetal, you just reform the USB connector shape and drop a single drop of solder on the crimped edge so it can't deform again.
Also, use a brand new USB cable when charging, the n7 is sensitive to ****ty USB cables in my experience.

fwayfarer said:
No clue what you're talking about brother. Zero Bluetooth problems here, running xenon HD LP with F2FS patched in. Charging is slow because your USB port and battery are worn out by now. Both parts are very very affordable on amazon. I just replaced my battery with one from amazon that is actually slightly larger in capacity than the original.
.........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right, the bluetooth problem could have been the other device which was running a buggy lollipop wip rom.
The battery should be ok since it was replaced not too long ago. The battery calibration or whatever looked messed up , the battery monitor widget app showed -ve values while charging.
I popped open the cover and found the port to be in ok condition, but I pressed it a little with pliers to make the fit more snug. I unplugged/plugged the battery and now the charging seems to be working ok, still abit slow but at least its making its way to 100% instead of being stuck at 67% 68%.

The ports they used in these are trash and not properly mounted imo

Power on phone without battery

Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?

Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.

Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?

cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot