Related
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
I'm looking for the same answer, i've installed the neet receiver, but unfortunate for me, the head unit does not connect. I don't think it can be used as transmitter.
I've found this, but I don't know if it works...
http://www.matrix-digi.com/en/products/158/index.html
You all may be overthinking this. Turns out plenty of modern android devices can use standard USB audio hardware. You just need an OTG cable, and the kind of USB audio output device that doesn't need a specialized driver under Windows or Linux. I've hooked up many different USB audio dongles you my Galaxy S3 and S4. The S4 wouldn't charge while hooked through the particular OTG cable, but the S3 does. As a matter of fact, I've been using it as the media player in my car for years.
Admittedly, I've only used the optical out on some of my devices occasionally, but I imagine it would still work for most.
Update: Not all supposed "OTG" cables work. This is the one I bought in Jan 2014 that works for both audio and charging on my S3 with CyanogenMod 11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPYORM/
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
So i had to return the Head Unit. I tried a different one by "Skandinav", with this one there was no sound at all from the USB DAC
retlaps said:
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
You need to connect to DAC with digital volume control like Helix DSP Pro
Greetings from Singapore
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you can connect to the DAC, thereby outputting digital audio from applications and transport flash drive.
this can be done not only with android devices, but also with conventional tape recorder, some installations you can look at my YouTube channel
unfortunately links for new users are forbidden, you can search by my nickname - "jonjonni toslink Евгений Фещенко"
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, don't fall into this hole. (warning to new users)
I have the Prima dac/amp, and the sound is amazing, and it can be connected to an Android phone via OTG to Toslink adapter, or via Bluetooth adapter with Toslink out, but it has one very nasty issue: when the amp is starting, and there is no Toslink signal, it won't register the connection. So if you later connect your phone, you have to cycle through the input sources Digital->Aux->Master->Digital to again register your connection.
So unless you connect your phone or turn on your BT receiver _before_ you start the car up, you will need to fiddle with cycling the source (while also driving the car). (That is if you also have the optional control unit with a display.)
Why they designed the device this way is just beyond me.
I hope its all right to join an old discussion.
I have a similar problem, I want to connect an android head unit in my car to an external digital amplifier. The amplifier itself have SPDIF input (mosconi GALDEN Pico 12 channels https://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-812-dsp/) but I can't find an android head unit running Android 10 with SPDIF output for my car. I've found converting card USB->SPIDF (for example: https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-C...1&keywords=usb+to+spdif&qid=1617899902&sr=8-3) but I still missing some points:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Thanks in advance, Haim
haim_gds said:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
haim_gds said:
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
haim_gds said:
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
MarkerB said:
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have to ask - what
marchnz said:
Have to ask - what
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit forces 24b 48khz audio, coaxial can output 192khz tracks and optical upto 96khz . Higher resolution audio output.
Neutron or UAPP will allow higher resolution, but you'll probably lose Navi directions as those programs bypass the android audio layer and mixer.
Basically you need a high resolution non- Android media player, with a navi input and mixer, that also has an spdif output.
The Alpine UTX-A09 looks like it can do that, assuming it isn't Android based /doesn't force 16/48 output from all sources when the mixer is enabled (in non "Alpine Direct" mode). Looks like the Alpine pxe-x09 has a mixer, so it should also be able to mix in navigation instructions.
Some of the Helix DSPs may mix or prioritize different inputs - the documentation isn't clear.
If you use spdif connection vs optical you run the risk of creating a ground loop unless the source is floating ie running on its battery power.
You can blow out all your high frequency drivers in a second if the ground loop creates feedback oscillations.
A common ground point may or may not prevent it. Using toslink to couple eliminates this potential issue.
For car hookups best practice to use heavy gauge wire for positive* feed, preferably coming directly from the battery for high wattage amps, source auxiliary equipment from the same end point. Do not daisy chain.
Same is true with home hifi, avoid using spdif cables to couple amps, preamps, receivers, cable boxes, etc. Amps, recievers are designed to be floating and not connected to ground. Do mix earth grounded and floating equipment unless connected by toslink only ie a tower PC with a 3 prong plug and a reciever (2 prong plug, floating).
*if you use a chassis grounding point, use only one and do not daisy chain!
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Bumping an old, but good, thread. I have exactly the same amp (well, the 5.9), and an Android unit with a TOSlink port - but it seems to be turned off as I can’t see any light coming from the TOSlink cable. Any idea how to turn it on?
I have a FiiO as a backup but prefer not to do SPDIF because I need another device for the Audison to take SPDIF input …
MarkerB said:
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
blackhawk said:
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you accidentally replied to the wrong post. My topic was about the quality of the DTS 96kHz/24 bit encode, which is completely independent of which of the two physical SPDIF interfaces is used.
Hi, I installed a MTCD Android head unit with Android 5.1.1 in my car two weeks ago. (I could'nt start this thread in the MTCD section because I'm new here)
My car audio setup goes as follow: Android Head Unit >>> USB Cable >>> PCM2704 USB to SPDIF adapter >>> SPDIF coax cable >>> MiniDSP 6x8 >>> 3 Amps >>> Speakers + sub.
So far I've been able to get SPDIF sound output with Neutron (Direct USB mode), Onkyo HF Player, USB Audio Player Pro, HibyMusic Player.
Sound is amazing btw.
If I understand correctly, all these apps are working with the USB DAC because they use their own app's USB Driver.
Important to know: All song in 44khz are playing fine, songs in 48khz makes every app freeze. I got a way around this by setting Neutron to resample every song in 44khz, so all songs are working now.
Now, if I play a song in Google Play Music, Spotify, Kodi, etc no sound comes out ... same thing for my HU video app, phone calls etc.
Is there a way around this ? What modifications can be made so every sound outputs to the USB Audio ? IE. kernel update, system files modifications etc ??
Thanks for any input.
Nobody use a USB DAC with his head unit ?
I have found this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66707293&postcount=47
But I dont think it applies to Android 5.1, sound management is different.
i dont use any DAC on this head unit. But I do have a Dragonfly USB DAC on my computer. the Dragonfly Red says it works with Android. Not sure if that is just marketing, or if it doesn't something specific.
CadillacMike said:
i dont use any DAC on this head unit. But I do have a Dragonfly USB DAC on my computer. the Dragonfly Red says it works with Android. Not sure if that is just marketing, or if it doesn't something specific.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you try it please ?
DanB0y said:
Can you try it please ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont know how I would even go about hooking it up? i could plug it into the USB port, but then what? use headphones?
all my speakers go through the wiring harness
CadillacMike said:
i dont know how I would even go about hooking it up? i could plug it into the USB port, but then what? use headphones?
all my speakers go through the wiring harness
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you would need to be using pre-outs, using a 3.5mm to rca cable into an external amp.
---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------
interesting that you've tried this. This forces you to completely by-pass the HUs sound processing.
I have the same DSP, but I'm using direct pre-outs. I like this idea though bc it gets around the low pre-out voltage, and allows you to ignore the poorly implemented sound processing in the HU.
Unfortunately, you probably need to modify the filesystem to get this to work, as your link shows. Why do you feel the need to use a DAC in addition to the DSP?
Hisma said:
you would need to be using pre-outs, using a 3.5mm to rca cable into an external amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my sub is tapped into my speaker wires, so I dont use the RCA preouts. So I probably can't try this.
However, I think my audio is pretty great with the Joying
CadillacMike said:
i dont know how I would even go about hooking it up? i could plug it into the USB port, but then what? use headphones?
all my speakers go through the wiring harness
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes simply use headphones
We just need to know if audio is outputing from the DAC.
I would appreciate, thanks !
Hisma said:
Unfortunately, you probably need to modify the filesystem to get this to work, as your link shows. Why do you feel the need to use a DAC in addition to the DSP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The DAC is a really clean source signal VS the head unit, I have a 2000$+ sound system in my car and sound quality is very important to me.
Also, DAC is digital signal VS analog RCA outputs on the head unit.
DanB0y said:
The DAC is a really clean source signal VS the head unit, I have a 2000$+ sound system in my car and sound quality is very important to me.
Also, DAC is digital signal VS analog RCA outputs on the head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I feel like right now my HU is the "weak point" of my system. I am about the same as you, roughly $2000 in equipment (probably a little more).
focal KRX3 3-way active system w/ a cheap kicker sub + 3 amps. I have the C-DSP along w/ a line driver to manage the low pre-out voltage. Would love to take the line driver out of the signal chain if I could. All these components are taking up a lot of valuable space.
I hope you figure this out. I don't have a MTCD, I have a non-joying 4.4 HU. Would love to use the SPDIF inputs on the C-DSP as opposed to the ****ty pre-outs from the HU.
Hisma said:
I agree. I feel like right now my HU is the "weak point" of my system. I am about the same as you, roughly $2000 in equipment (probably a little more).
focal KRX3 3-way active system w/ a cheap kicker sub + 3 amps. I have the C-DSP along w/ a line driver to manage the low pre-out voltage. Would love to take the line driver out of the signal chain if I could. All these components are taking up a lot of valuable space.
I hope you figure this out. I don't have a MTCD, I have a non-joying 4.4 HU. Would love to use the SPDIF inputs on the C-DSP as opposed to the ****ty pre-outs from the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice ! I have 3 way peerless (tweets + 3.5 mids + 7in woofer) 1 pioneer amp 4ch for tweets + mids and 1 pioneer amp 2ch for the woofers, another JBL amp in the trunk with a 15in Alpine Type-R. I have the C-DSP 6X8 MiniDSp as well
SPDIF to C-DSP SPDIF Input would give you 4V at the MiniDSP RCA outputs
DanB0y said:
SPDIF to C-DSP SPDIF Input would give you 4V at the MiniDSP RCA outputs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well you have convinced me to give this a shot. The USB DAC + 25 ft coax cable only set me back $35 on amazon. So even if this doesn't work I won't be mad.
The potential for 4V of CLEAN pre-out voltage is too enticing to pass up. The line driver works, but like I said it's another box that needs power/space/etc. The USB DAC also allows me to take the HU sound processor fully out of my signal chain.
I am unfortunately using android 4.4, so dont think I can help you much, but I will let you know if this works nonetheless.
Hisma said:
well you have convinced me to give this a shot. The USB DAC + 25 ft coax cable only set me back $35 on amazon. So even if this doesn't work I won't be mad.
The potential for 4V of CLEAN pre-out voltage is too enticing to pass up. The line driver works, but like I said it's another box that needs power/space/etc. The USB DAC also allows me to take the HU sound processor fully out of my signal chain.
I am unfortunately using android 4.4, so dont think I can help you much, but I will let you know if this works nonetheless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it dont work natively, I'm 99% sure it will work with the Neutron music player. Install it and then go to hardware settings and enable Direct USB Driver. :good:
DanB0y said:
If it dont work natively, I'm 99% sure it will work with the Neutron music player. Install it and then go to hardware settings and enable Direct USB Driver. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well I tested this today and I am very pleased with the results. I really do notice a difference in SQ. It sounds "cleaner" and fuller.
Only major thing I notice is the overall volume seems really high over SPDIF. Only place I can adjust the volume now is with the DSP, but even then, I find I need to turn the gain down on the SPDIF inputs to get an acceptable volume. This is even with gain all the way down on my amps. This leads to a bit of clipping on the highs.
Did you make any adjustments in neutron player or the DSP to get an acceptable volume? Or do you get by with just adjusting the DSP master volume?
Now I just need to see if I can get all my sound to route through. I like to listen to streaming music too but I don't think I can go back to using analog pre-outs.
Hisma said:
well I tested this today and I am very pleased with the results. I really do notice a difference in SQ. It sounds "cleaner" and fuller.
Only major thing I notice is the overall volume seems really high over SPDIF. Only place I can adjust the volume now is with the DSP, but even then, I find I need to turn the gain down on the SPDIF inputs to get an acceptable volume. This is even with gain all the way down on my amps. This leads to a bit of clipping on the highs.
Did you make any adjustments in neutron player or the DSP to get an acceptable volume? Or do you get by with just adjusting the DSP master volume?
Now I just need to see if I can get all my sound to route through. I like to listen to streaming music too but I don't think I can go back to using analog pre-outs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great ! Now you're in the same boat as me lol
(Except for the clipping, I have no problem with that)
What is the model of your amps ? I have my gain to around 1/3 in the amps (They're up to 6.5V input sensitivity) and spdif input gain is at 0.
For your sound routing, you can sum the rca inputs and the spdif input together in the DSP And then you use your input levels to match the loudness. That way, you'll be able to listen excellent SQ music from Neutron and still hear BT phone calls, Youtube, navigation etc trough the analog inputs.
DanB0y said:
Great ! Now you're in the same boat as me lol
(Except for the clipping, I have no problem with that)
What is the model of your amps ? I have my gain to around 1/3 in the amps (They're up to 6.5V input sensitivity) and spdif input gain is at 0.
For your sound routing, you can sum the rca inputs and the spdif input together in the DSP And then you use your input levels to match the loudness. That way, you'll be able to listen excellent SQ music from Neutron and still hear BT phone calls, Youtube, navigation etc trough the analog inputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! This is exactly what I have done. I spoke too soon also. The clipping was more a tuning issue than anything (changed cross-over on tweeters & lowered their output a bit). I was able to set the gain on SPDIF back to 0.
Man it sounds really good now. I haven't any real tuning yet outside of setting gains and cross-overs. I think once I tune the system it'll take it over the top.
I have a mosconi as100.4 on the tweeters and mids, and a alpine mrv-m500 on the sub. (i have one other amp I am replacing to power mid woofer, should arrive tomorrow). It's a total overkill system, but I find great deals on used gear on diymobileaudio classifieds so I keep upgrading lol.
So now I will use neutron for majority of listening, and by mixing channels together on the analogs I already had connected, I get acceptable SQ for phone calls and streaming music. I have no desire to mod my system files the way it was shown in that thread you linked. Looks too risky. I am okay with this new arrangement since 90+% of my listening is my personal music collection.
Really appreciate you making this thread. I always knew my system was capable of sounding better and this did the trick. I will let you know if I figure anything else out that could be useful.
Hisma said:
Yes! This is exactly what I have done. I spoke too soon also. The clipping was more a tuning issue than anything (changed cross-over on tweeters & lowered their output a bit). I was able to set the gain on SPDIF back to 0.
Man it sounds really good now. I haven't any real tuning yet outside of setting gains and cross-overs. I think once I tune the system it'll take it over the top.
I have a mosconi as100.4 on the tweeters and mids, and a alpine mrv-m500 on the sub. (i have one other amp I am replacing to power mid woofer, should arrive tomorrow). It's a total overkill system, but I find great deals on used gear on diymobileaudio classifieds so I keep upgrading lol.
So now I will use neutron for majority of listening, and by mixing channels together on the analogs I already had connected, I get acceptable SQ for phone calls and streaming music. I have no desire to mod my system files the way it was shown in that thread you linked. Looks too risky. I am okay with this new arrangement since 90+% of my listening is my personal music collection.
Really appreciate you making this thread. I always knew my system was capable of sounding better and this did the trick. I will let you know if I figure anything else out that could be useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I know what overkill sounds like haha
For frontstage 3way I got a 4ch Pioneer Premier PRS-X340 running 2x NE25-VTS04 Peerless tweets and 2x NE95W-04 3in Peerless mids, another Pioneer old scholl amp pushing 2x175w for 7in Wavecor woofers. In the trunk is a JBL GTO14001, 1500Wrms @2ohm pushing a 15In Alpine Type-R sub in 3.5cuft tuned @21hz
All my amps are very good condition used gear found on classifieds too, you can dig some real treasors for very little money sometimes !
I've been looking all around the web since last week for how to route every sounds of the HU to a USB DAC, translating and reading about 500 pages worth of XDA/Russian Android forums, spent last nights editing config files all around my HU System folder, I tried the how-to link I posted in OP for MTCB units, nothing to do.. I really think the Kernel must be enabled for USB Audio for it to work, my DAC shows up in USB devices info but not in the audio output devices.
Well, I'm still happy because my FLAC music collection plays incredibly well i dont car that much for FM Radio SQ, I only wish I'd be able to listen to Spotify or Kodi on the DAC.
Im r eally glad if I could be any help to you and will keep this thread updated if I find something !
navigation guidance voice goes through usb audio ?
DanB0y said:
Yeah I know what overkill sounds like haha
For frontstage 3way I got a 4ch Pioneer Premier PRS-X340 running 2x NE25-VTS04 Peerless tweets and 2x NE95W-04 3in Peerless mids, another Pioneer old scholl amp pushing 2x175w for 7in Wavecor woofers. In the trunk is a JBL GTO14001, 1500Wrms @2ohm pushing a 15In Alpine Type-R sub in 3.5cuft tuned @21hz
All my amps are very good condition used gear found on classifieds too, you can dig some real treasors for very little money sometimes !
I've been looking all around the web since last week for how to route every sounds of the HU to a USB DAC, translating and reading about 500 pages worth of XDA/Russian Android forums, spent last nights editing config files all around my HU System folder, I tried the how-to link I posted in OP for MTCB units, nothing to do.. I really think the Kernel must be enabled for USB Audio for it to work, my DAC shows up in USB devices info but not in the audio output devices.
Well, I'm still happy because my FLAC music collection plays incredibly well i dont car that much for FM Radio SQ, I only wish I'd be able to listen to Spotify or Kodi on the DAC.
Im r eally glad if I could be any help to you and will keep this thread updated if I find something !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any update on this thread ?
I made some sort of experiance, on Joying HU , the 2GB Rockchip Sofia version (10.1" screen) :
Using info from https: // source.android.com/devices/audio/usb.html - i looked into the "audio_policy.conf" file on the Joying, and for sure , there was no reference to any USB audio interface.
I am no android expert .. but i edited this file , with the info gathered from the link above , and after a reboot - the HU did indeed send the audio to the USB port.
Audio from all the apps i tred , was routed to the USB interface (Radio , DAB player,Kodi etc..)
The bad thing (?) - there was no volume control , all audio is at max level.
An external volume control could possibly remedy this.. i will look into it
Frank
Hi all-
I'm using this usb type C to usb connector inside my audi for playing music off of the Nexus 6p through the car's Android Auto:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010VFFSL4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I specifically got this one since it meets USB-C spec as many cables out there that boast high transfer rates can ruin your equipment. I'm using the latest WETA ROM and have tried a myriad of combinations by turning off/on Viper mod, configuring its settings, also tuning the eq in my car, etc.
What's weird is that music over bluetooth sounds like much better quality than wired with this USB type C connection. I got an awesome aftermarket sub and amp installed in the car but it seems to bring out the deeper issue. It's when music (mainly rock) has all instrumentals blending that the sound becomes distorted and overloaded. Because our phones already have poor max volume output, I'm having to max out the volume in the car. Also with android auto, you can't use the volume rockers on the phone it seems...seems to override the sound volume.
Anyone have any idea? In this car I can't seem to play music with aux cable (maybe an iPhone would work) and USB stick doesn't mount songs. Don't know if it's the cable I bought, the ROM (has the A.R.I.S.E. mod built in), or the DAC in the AUDI?
Thanks
Hi Guys
I have been searching and researching for hours but can't get this to work the way that I want, although I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work.
I recently purchased one of my dream cars, and promptly changed the headunit to a more modern unit, to allow me to have spotify, google maps, etc etc. I purchased the Eonon GA8150A for this purpose, and it sounds OK.
I was always planning to upgrade the sound, namely using a Helix DSP and amplifier, upgrading the speakers, etc etc.
Since the helix has an optical input, I figured I could maximise quality by running a digital signal to the unit - to this end I purchased a Behringer UCA202, as its a class compliant USB DAC which has optical out.
I connected via USB, and went into developer settings, and changed the "Select USB Configuration" to Audio. I plugged in some headphones for testing, and....nothing.
After some research, I downloaded the Onkyo player, and this worked! I was getting audio via my USB dac, through the headphones. But spotify, bluetooth, radio, nothing else worked.
Was wondering if what I am trying to achieve is possible?
The only other alternative it to sell the uni, and purchase an AVIN Avant 3 unit - this comes with high quality 4V pre outs but its a lot more expensive and i really dont want to do this. I could use the RCA outs on the Eonon to feed the processor, but as mentioned, these leads to many stages of A/D D/A conversion that will markedly reduce quality.
Thanks
Saad
Ok updates - it now works - the inbuilt audio player via USB, spotify, both work, however the radio doesn't send audio via the DAC, and nor does it send audio to the dac from my phone via bluetooth.
Not sure why this works now, maybe I had to turn off the car a while so the unit could properly reset?
The head unit volume control however doesn't work to adjust the volume of the audio coming from the dac.
Any way to get radio and bluetooth working via the dac?
Cheers
Hi guys, I am looking to put an android head unit into my BMW X1 (e84) and would like some thoughts/advice on the audio side of things.
TLDR; The unit requires the use of the aux port, which is low powered and too quiet - what are my alternatives?
Best I can tell all the android units for the e84 are essentially an extra side unit, as the original OEM HU stays in the car, take the following for example: AVIN BAVE84-1025 (I can't post the link as I don't have enough posts).
My only problem is the audio from the android needs to be looped through the cars aux port, which just seems wrong, as the aux port is low powered I'll never be able to get loud good quality audio through to the car speakers?
As it is at the moment, when I plug my android phone into my aux port, I turn the cars volume to maximum (including the extra aux volume) and it's still incredibly quiet. Is this because it's low powered aux, or is it my phone causing the quietness? (My phone is also turned up to max volume)
I'm worried that if I purchase one of these android units and utilise the aux port for the audio, I'll have the same volume/quality problem that I have when using my phone.
I used to have a 1 series (e87), where the android unit just hooked straight into the cars audio system, no need for utilising aux.
I have read that some people have left the aux unplugged in an F48 and the audio still worked (I'll see if I can find the thread for that) but obviously that's a newer model, so I'm not sure what's different.
I've also read a little about using a USB DAC, but I don't fully understand the process. Am I right in thinking the android device would need to be told to output audio to the USB, and the USB would then be hooked into the cars RCA audio?
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
Aadieu said:
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still running the OEM head unit at the moment (professional head unit) but it doesn't have music over Bluetooth.
I'll try another device to see if it'll go louder, but as far as I'm aware the aux port is generally quiet anyway because its low powered.
I have a small amp that I thought could probably help but I wouldnt want to put too much power through the aux port in case it blows.
I thought if I could get the android unit to use a USB DAC, I could then hook into the cars standard audio rather than a low powered aux. I'm just not sure whether it's possible to have these android units output to a USB instead. Does anyone have any experience with this?