N7 + Carplay dongle needs constant ignition start/stop uninterrupted source of power - Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I have almost conquered my carputer solution. Everything works pretty great as long as the car is running:
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But there is one critical issue occurring during stop and start of the engine. My "wireless carplay dongle" from Carlinkit is very finicky about having a constant source of power and when I get a split second power drop during ignition stop or start, the dongle loses power over the OTG cable. Once this happens, I have to restart the tablet to get the OTG device to be recognized again.
This dongle is connected to the micro USB port of the N7 via an OTG+Charger splitter cable. I need to somehow feed a constant source of power to the dongle via the car. Otherwise, it resets and has to be manually resynced for the tablet to recognize it.
I've tried to use my little Jackery 3200mAh battery pack to serve as backup power to the tablet while the ignition is off, and this does keep the tablet and the dongle powered, but whenever I start the car, their is a split second power interuption and the dongle shuts off and has to then be manually re-synced to the tablet.
I need to figure out if its possible to avoid this power interruption, either with a more sophisticated USB battery pack/charger with more advanced circuitry that doesn't drop power when the ignition is toggled or alternately, a non interuptible power tap from the fusebox or from the battery terminal itself.
Thoughts? Any help much appreciated. I'm almost there!

As a workaround, is there a one-touch or one gesture means of restarting the tablet? Granted, its not too difficult to restart the tablet by pressing the power button and then clicking the "OK" link on the screen to confirm reboot/restart. However, when you are driving, that's way too precise and complicated to do. If there was a gesture or pattern I could swipe on the tablet, or perhaps even a triple click to instantly restart the tablet, that would make this whole power cycle issue much easier to deal with until I can find a solution (assuming one exists)

Related

My 8525 keeps shutting down by its self

When I turn it on, it stays for a while and shuts down
same thing happens over and over
Does anyone have an idea about this problem?
We need more detail.
How long is a "while"
Does it always do this or is it random behaviour?
Is the battery fully charged?
Have you tried soft / hard resets?
Does the device go completely off or is it just the screen that goes off? (i;e; when you switch the device back on, do you need a long press on the power button or just a quick press?)
Mike
it shuts down completely(i need a long press to turn it back on)
sometimes it stays for 5 minutes sometimes 20 minutes
and the battery is fully charged
brain boy said:
it shuts down completely(i need a long press to turn it back on)
sometimes it stays for 5 minutes sometimes 20 minutes
and the battery is fully charged
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, it sounds like you have the poor battery contacts problem. To be sure, you can do a hard reset to rule out any software issues. If you have no backup program installed then you will lose anything you have installed to the phone however.
So you could go straight to a simple fix for this problem. That is a strip of card to push the battery more firmly against the gold connectors. First make sure the connectors are all clean:
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In some rarer cases the connector block with all the gold contacts has actually become partially detached from the board - perhaps a hairline crack in the soldered contacts. Hopefully yours does not have this problem though.
Mike
my m3100 has just been doing this, i phoned orange and they said i needed a new batery which i cba with. so i hard reseted to no effect, last step reflashed, been working fine for two days now. so my suggestion is reflash your rom

Car charger Modding

I noticed a few complaints on this forum and others about Goggle Navigation being too much of a drain on the handset even with it plugged into a car charger.
My suspicion is that this is down to badly made car chargers, and on a previous occasion using the Testing menu, I noticed that my own charger was being reported by the phone as USB.
So I set about trying to rectify this, using my awesome rolleyes knowledge of how the phone recognises what it's being charged with and an 'I don't care if I kill the charger, it was free' attitude.
I took it apart and tested continuity between the 2 middle (data) pins on the USB plug, there was none, and the problem was identified. I simply flipped the board over and soldered these 2 pins together and reassembled the charger.
Took it out to the car, plugged it in and lo and behold, the Testing menu now reports that it is plugged into an AC source! As my phone is fully charged and I don't have any trips planned right now I don't know how much real world difference there is, but it's looking promising, at least the phone now knows it can draw 1000mA instead of 500mA, and for 5 minutes 'work' it was worth doing.
I didn't bother with a how-to as I figured chances of someone having the same charger as me were slim, but pics aren't a problem:
Here is my universal USB charger with the cover removed:
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and the reverse side with the 2 pins soldered together:
Probably doesn't tell you a huge amount unfortunately, but to be honest that's because it really is a simple procedure with not much to tell.
where did you get your universal charger? I'm wanting to chop one up and hide the nexus dock on the side of my GTI instead of blocking my 6" double din monitor..
Almost like you can do your radar detector..
-Chalrie
It was an Xmas present, part of a universal kit. It's made by Mountech if it helps though.
thanks I'll look it up, hopefully most universal ones are designed the same usb wise then I could dremel my dash and have a easy access usb port for nav.
Fail!
Despite the mod, it's still not enough to charge/sustain the N1 with Google Navigation running (screen on full brightness). Guess it's just not man enough to produce the required 1A.
I have a USB port installed in my car as per the headunit
at full brightness and while using google navigation AND streaming Slacker via bluetooth... I do not have a -% charge
in fact, the N1 stays fully charged at all times... (however if I have less than 100%, it does take a long time for the % to go up... might take 5 minutes for 1% increase)
sooo I'm not sure what the problem is with the car chargers (as I don't use one)
I have a USB headunit and never thought to try and charge from it! D'oh!

Charging anomaly / Ghost recovery mode?

Summary: Charged phone from a power bank, now it won't charge anymore.
My mother charged the phone from some power bank from a friend, as she describes it "it charged very fast and it was very hot". Then it also drained pretty quickly. Now when connecting the original cable and charger from a power outlet it won't charge, nothing shows up (even after 1 hour).
- the power button doesn't do anything, recovery mode won't work either, not even launching in safe mode
- the cable and charger work perfectly (they tested with the other p10 lite phone they got in the house)
- after connecting the cable, not even the led light won't turn on
Here is the strange part.
RANDOMLY ! It will boot up itself into recovery suggesting to update it, after they hit update, they connect successfully to the house Wifi, it will say something like "package information failed to gather". Other options are wipe/factory reset, reboot, shutdown.
Now, I guess I'll try a wipe/factory reset next time it goes into recovery by itself, it happens randomly, can't be done manually since the power button doesn't do anything.
I told them to connect it to the laptop, to which the phone is showing the Huawei logo for a while, then it disappears. But after many tries, we got it to somehow connect with "fast boot" and I managed to take this screenshot.
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I then installed Hisuite and tried to connect to their recovery thing, but this device isn't supported for that.
Some final thoughts, I am still confused as to what the actual issue is, or if there is more than 1 issue.
- the port might be fried from the power bank, but then it still works sometimes, just it doesn't actually charge
- the power button doesn't do anything, maybe because the phone is on 0 battery
- the phone data is corrupted somehow and it won't load the OS, because after connecting to the PC instead of finish loading the OS (after the huawei logo) the logo disappears and nothing happens.
I'm hella confused about this situation. I also told them to use a toothbrush to clean the usb port, still no results.
Any suggestions?

[Question/Help] Power on unit when engine is off

Hello
I have a Peugeot 508 with start button ignition.
I have bought an android radio:
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9
Kernel: 4.4.167
MCU version: MTCE_MX_V3.41_1
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Android 9
The radio works great, but I have a problem/question. It only works when the engine is running. Right after I stop the engine, screen goes "Shutting down.." is a few seconds and done. The original radio was working even when engine off until the "Economy mode" got activated in 15minutes.
Any idea what needs to be done/set up? Do I need to change anything in the canbus factory settings menu? I already tried to press the power on/off radio button when engine off and didnt work.
Thanks guys!
You should find a way not to break the voltage on the ACC wire as soon as the engine stops.
As a very last chance you might add a manual switch to connect the battery B+ wire to the ACC wire, but it's pretty uncomfortable to have to manually control the head unit power on/off...
You may need to swap the red and yellow cable around. Sometimes cars use a different combo for their acc and 12v feed.
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
Thanks, the unit came with plug and play cables, should I remake the canbus power cable? I mean, measure the volts while inginition off and reconnect somehow?
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Measure the red wire and the yellow wire connected to canbus when ignition is completely off. Generally the yellow wire is the 12v feed and red is ACC. So should only show voltage when ignition is switched to ACC. If red is live all the time and yellow is dead with ignition off then you need to switch them around. That should cure your problem.
Be sure that you have a switched live at the head unit end before connecting to head unit.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

UIS8141E based head unit, L818_168-Ver_K5 motherboard problem.

Hello,
First of all, thank you for taking your time and reading my post.
Recently I purchased the android head unit for my car. During the installation process, I quickly connected the cables to test the unit before mounting it. The unit turned on and booted without a problem, but the screen was upside down, so in order to mount it, I had to rotate the screen. I disconnected the screen cable and the digitizer cable, rotated the screen and reconnected the cables. After testing the unit again, there was no display! The backlight was randomly flashing and I was even able to hear the radio. So the unit was turned on, I had a problem with display. I made a mistake: I didn't take a photos of screen connectors, so I think I incorrectly connected these cables. After several attempt, I pressed the RST button for a while. I thought I was a software problem and pressing the RST button would RESTART the device. But after pressing the RST button, the unit is dead. It doesn't turn on, anymore., the screen is black, no backlight. When connecting power cable, the LED lamp near the CPU is turned off. I tried to connect it to the PC using a USB cable. When I connected it, nothing happened, no new device was detected on PC. I checked the fuse and it is OK. I also recognized some testing points on the motherboard and these points appear to have correct voltage, 3,3v and 5v.
However, the LED_VCC is 0 and LED+ has 0 voltage.
I haven't flashed any custom firmware. Is there any chance to recover the device? Maybe I need to follow some instructions after pressing the RST button?
I've attached some photos of the device.
The CPU is: UIS8141E,
4GB RAM, 32 GB ROM.
It should have android 12, however I didn't have a chance to properly identify the OS.
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