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Any high-current (1.5A or more say) *folding-plug* USA power supplies?

I use my old Motorola mini-USB supplies and love 'em but would like something with more juice than the ~800mA they put out. Any suggestions? I can occasionally find a folding-plug power supply but then the max current is never specified
TIA,
Richard

Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.

3waygeek said:
Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.
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Yeah, that one is interesting - a little bulkier than I'd prefer. I have to do some testing, but I recently discovered my ~800mA Moto charger won't charge my APC USB battery when it's completely discharged. I've not noticed any issues with my Hermes or Kaiser, but I don't let them get to 0% and I usually can wait overnight when they're really low.
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
Richard

rsolomon said:
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
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I saw this Griffin Powerblock Universal at my local Staples, and the box said 5V @ 1A:
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerblockuniversal
That's a lot more the desired form-factor, but still shy of what I wanted.
I may snag one anyway just to see.
Richard

rsolomon said:
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
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Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.

3waygeek said:
Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.
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I'm not convinced of that. Yes, the spec is max 500mA and I've sometimes seen some machines pop up and complain about overcurrent on a port, but many other times not. I'm also not 100% convinced that all my laptop's USB ports are directly off the chipset - so there may effectively be a powered hub involved here. I guess I'll have to carve up a USB cable and put a current meter in there to answer the question one way or another - don't hold your breath on that one
Richard

A couple of things:
As far as USB port power goes, I've read up about this (forget why), but the USB spec DOES say that each USB port needs to supply at least 500mA... But in practice motherboard manufacturers tie the power lines of multiple ports together, so if a motherboard has 4 ports, the power bus will be connected to all of them, and it will supply at least 500mA x4, or 2000mA (2 Amps) total. There is generally no individual regulation of this however, so if you only have one device plugged in, it has the full 2 amps to draw from. Often other devices like mice or keyboards use so little power that there is plenty left for other peripherals to use well over 500mA even when all the ports are in use. This is actually a problem, as many product manufacturers get "lazy" and design products that actually NEED more than 500mA, especially things like bus powered hard drives, because those work on most systems (but frustratingly, not all).
As far as power supplies, i got curious, and here's what i found:
The exact power supply that comes with the tilt is about $8US from mouser in the US:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Produc...irtualkey55210000virtualkey552-PSA-A05A-050-R
it's mouser part number: 552-PSA-A05A-050-R
Sadly it doesn't fold and it also only provides 1A, so, here's some more stuff:
This part is similar but just has a USB port on it, so if you already have the data cable with you, the AC adapter won't take up much more space:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T1003-ND
Now i'm really not having any luck finding exactly what you need, but if you're a bit handy you can wire a mini USB port onto another 5v power supply with more current output. I can't tell you which wires go where but if you have a multimeter and a soldering gun you should be able to figure it out:
here's a USB mini cable with wires coming off one end if you don't want to cut up a cable you already have: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=WM17104-ND
And any good regulated or switching 5v power supply should be good. Here's one with 2A output, and it's described as "flip out", so i imagine the connector, um, flips out, but it's not a stock part so you'd have to call them, and i don't know if it's regulated or switching (either is good, i think), so you should ask: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T321-P5P-ND
an in stock, non-flip out one is here:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T450-P5P-ND
If you custom wire one, test it on a less important device, just to make sure that it really will be okay, and don't sue me if it breaks something. Plus, i don't know how the kaiser feels about charging at more than 1A, since the stock power supply only provides that much current.
Also, another kind of plug is the "multi-plug" power supply, with removable plugs to allow for plugs from different countries to clip on, so rather than flipping out the plug, you could just unclip it, if you don't mind having 2 pieces. Here's one of those at 1.2A and $13US: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T946-P5P-ND
or 3.2A at $18US:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T377-P5P-ND
But you might want to call HTC and talk to an engineer (they're hard to get a hold of, but i've been able to do it at other companies if you keep asking) and make sure that higher charging currents are okay.
And i really only checked mouser and digikey for these things, so it's possible that other suppliers might have something different, though they are two of the largest suppliers of this kind of thing in the US, so i'd be surprised.
You could even call CUI direct and speak to someone there, they're nice people and they might be able to make you a custom one for not too much (i doubt they'd do that for one unit, but if they already make something close they might!).
If you can't get what you need easily, try harder! Hehe.
-Taylor

More Power!

Bought one of these guys to hardwire a charger in my car:
http://www.mountguys.com/product_p/mfx5v-b-micro.htm
On the charger is specifies 5V 1500mA output. Is that ok? I know it's more than stock, but I thought circuitry can step it down if needed.
Also, I'm thinking I want to hardwire to the always hot lead that goes to the radio memory function. Any chance of current problems? Don't think it will drain my battery if I leave it charging while shopping (or at the bar)
Thanks.

I'm curious why you chose to hardwire it, when the device can only pull 700mA, and these little wonders work perfectly.

Nice! Got one of these also... twice the ports and 5X the price:
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Powerjolt-Dual-Universal-Micro/dp/B0042B9U8Q/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Yours and mine above specify 1A... this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Samsu...96/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1318442293&sr=8-15
2.1 A.
I just wanted a cleaner look in a little sports car... the hardwire is going to come out the panel and go straight to a dock. But now I'm worried that 1500 mA could be troublesome?

It won't be troublesome, just useless.
I have a setup for my iPod that utilizes one of what I linked. I've got a USB+RCA-to-dock cable running into my center console, then into a port in there, to some empty space in front of it (under the trim, totally invisible) where my audio guys spliced a new line into the RCA jacks that came from the factory, and split off another power line. The charger's in there, cable connects to the ports... It's nice and clean.

this should be fine. the amperage rating on a charger just tells what it is capable of if requested. it is up to the phone itself to provide the requested amount of current. that is to say if this charger can provide 1500mA, but our phones can only use 750mA, your good. it is provided all the current it needs. now on the other hand, if you were charging some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of) this charger would provide all it could, the device would just charge slower.
the voltage is fine. most chargers are rated at 5v, and should be spot on as long as it is a decent brand from a trusted source. a knock off may be out of spec to what it is rated. that is where you could run in to trouble with frying a phone.
anyway, besides all that, this seems risky. not hardwiring a charger to your car, but leaving it there while you are shopping or in the bar. ever heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? id hate to come out of a bar to a broken window and no phone...
i never leave my phone unattended outside of my home.

austin420 said:
some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of)
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iPad, TouchPad, Galaxy Tab 10.1...

Guess I'm a noob.. very detailed answer in FAQ.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=802711&highlight=voltage+amps+charger
Now to find out if those pins are shorted...

[Q] Modifiy Nexus 10 For Qi Wireless Charging?

In short, could we slap a Qi-compliant coil in our Nexus 10, wire it to the battery, and win?
The coil itself is pretty thin from what I've seen, and there is a bit of room in-between the battery and back plastic (the people with creaky and buckling cases should know about this).
I don't know if there's an actual control board that is needed, but perhaps the coil could be hooked either directly to the battery, or even through USB (that way you can be notified of charging). If a control board is needed, then this might be a bit harder than expected, unless the board itself is pretty thin too.
It looks like someone's managed to do something similar to a Nexus 7 already and had good results (even enters docking mode): http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2070851
Edit: Instead of routing the coil to the USB or battery directly, we could even hook it to the Pogo pin area, like the person did for the N7 coil mod above.
I'm willing to give this a try, but may have to wait a few weeks till I can get the funds for a coil and for it to ship to me.

espionage724 said:
In short, could we slap a Qi-compliant coil in our Nexus 10, wire it to the battery, and win?
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According to a-post-at-techchrunch-i-cant-link-to-cause-im-a-noob, the Nexus 10 has Qi already... is it wrong? I haven't opened my Nexus 10 to check

I have openned up my Nexus 10 and dont remember anything for wireless charging being there.
I saw someone mod the Galaxy nexus to enable this sort of thing and from what I remember you should be right Espionage, just as simply as you think. And yes there is room to do it.

xiq said:
According to a-post-at-techchrunch-i-cant-link-to-cause-im-a-noob, the Nexus 10 has Qi already... is it wrong? I haven't opened my Nexus 10 to check
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I can find no reference to the device on the offical Qi website. This makes me highly skeptical that Qi is already present on the N10, perhaps they confused it with the N4?
Search for yourself if you'd like: http://www.wirelesspowerconsortium.com/products

As slow as the Nexus 10 already charges with it's stock USB cable... do you really WANT to charge it with Qi? :laugh:
You might have to charge it for a week from 0% to get to 100%

Any further developments?
Hey Guys!
Is there any further developments on this possibility? :fingers-crossed:

Why not just use a pogo cable.... you would have to plug in a charging pad anyway.

Nexus 10 Wireless Charging Solution
I know it's been some time but I'm kind of surprized nobody posted a solution yet. I just had a Nexus 10 open and noticed not for the 1st time the pogo pins at the bottom that Google never even put to use. I can't even find an aftermarket docking station for it. We aren't talking about Apple here. Anyways the closest I've seen is a magnetic pogo pin charging adapter cable probably sold mostly to people who broke their USB ports. It seems nobody picked up on sewermike's comment. They DO have pogo pins and with a wireless coil (2-4 chained together) you could wire them to the + and - of the pogo pin cable easily. Also if you have access to old Nexus 2nd gen back covers you can get them there or on eBay cheap. It might be slow like TheAltruistic says but if you have a wireless device charging coffee table which I'm seeing more and more you can just set it on that. If I have time I'll do video or at least post my results.

ive got the pogo cable, if you can buy it do so - its well worth it, i think i paid £15 and i totally stand by it.
as for wireless charging, you can get wireless charging receiver cards that plug into the micro usb port, with this you can either plug it in and bend the cable around the tablet and hide it inside the case or plug it in and have it hang outside, you just rest the card on the charger.
please remember that is isnt a perfect solution as the card will get hot and overheat and stop charging or you'll spend all day charging the tablet.
i use to wirelessly charge the nexus 10 but id rather stick the pogo in

[Q] Better Safe than Sorry

I got a good deal on a refurbished Tegra Note 7 so I quickly snagged it as I wanted a tablet for media consumption, some browsing + gaming! Now I've read all the reviews and came across the infamous ultra flimsy micro-usb port. I'm hoping that the tablet was refurbished because of a faulty port and they put in an awesome one! Anyway, do you guys have any suggestions for me so that I don't break the port like using a particular charger, any specific way to charge it(Wireless Charging without any soldering or other method that requires skills with tools?) or anything, really. Also, in case it does break, I'm guessing inevitably it will, has anyone found a convenient way except sending it to the respective manufacturers?

I just recently got a used one off eBay. The cord that came with it was a very tight fit and I could see how that would eventually break the port. Fortunately my samsung cord slips on the port very easily. And since it's white I marked the top of the cord with black magic marker so I never put it in wrong. So far it's working out great.

There's not much else to do but be extremely careful or go buy a Micro USB Type A cable. The whole problem with the port is that they used the wrong one.
http://www.yogaretnam.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/micro_usb_type_a_b.jpg
I never even knew there were two types of Micro USB connectors until I got this thing. I never bothered to get the right cable (and Nvidia didn't bother including the right one... did they even know there were two types?), and thanks to a minor fall while plugged in, I have to plug my cable in slightly crooked to get it to charge right. If I plug it straight in, it will show it's charging but actually drain the battery even if the stupid thing is off!

Remove battery - Hard wired

Has anyone removed the battery from the Tab A and hard wired in a power supply? Looking to install mine in the car, but OTG + charge does not work, which pretty much means it's a non starter.
While I am tempted to try the Lavalink adapter, reviews of it are not exactly stellar. The battery looks like it has 2 red, 2 black and 2 yellow wires. I am not sure yet what the yellow wires are for, but would assume red and black are positive and negative. If I go this route, I plan to buy a 2nd battery to use the little pigtail on order to be able to put the tablet back to stock if needed.
Anyone done this to their tablet?
Thanks.
Edit: Took the tablet apart, nope. The DIY I read about taking the back off showed 6 wires coming from the battery (2 x Red, Yellow and Black) which would have been easy enough to splice into. But, the tablet, in reality, has a ribbon cable coming from the battery, not really likely to attach anything to that pigtail without breaking something. So, looks like Lavalink or bust.