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has anyone used a power peg with an X10?
I have power peg, but when i press the charge button on the peg, the led on the X10 only lights for a few seconds before it stops. i remember reading somewhere that the X10 doesn't like 3rd party chargers, and that a few people fixed the problem by modding some of the pins on the charger. the power peg uses Igo interchangeable tips, so changing pins would be easy if that was the case.
I believe that the X10 wants the two middle pins shorted.
There are many of us in the Nexus 7 community who are looking to build our tablets in to our cars and other places where the power button will not be practically accessible. I am one of those people. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas on how to extend the power button?
The ribbon cable for the power and volume buttons can be seen here: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Nexus+7+Power+&+Volume+Button+Cable/9926/2
The header/connector on the board for the cable looks way too small to solder to and so my latest idea is finding a replacement ribbon cable that I could extend in to a tiny gauge wire and externalize from the case. From what I've been able to find so far, I think this is a ZIF FPC/FFC type ribbon cable and connector? I was thinking of something like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvyL%2b65tEJ/L29YMZjxdjhiuZuU4IfHbXs= But I truly have no idea if this cable will fit? Anybody who's great with PCBs who would like to chime in?
If it helps I found a Molex catalog that has a couple connectors that look similar:
http://www.molex.com/catalog/web_catalog/pdfs/F.pdf
Subscribed!!
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Interesting
jllbenson said:
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
irishboym4 said:
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats very nicely done. I want to do power and volume for my setup. Did the wire size you use work well or would you recommend smaller? otherwise i will need a separate volume control solution for the system. what do you have your tablet connected to for your amp and speakers?
Thanks. I used a 22 gauge wire, the smaller the better I think, as long as it's not bare. As far as amp, I'm using an aftermarket CD deck with a 3.5mm audio in. So I don't really plan on changing the volume on the tablet itself. I'll probably just keep it at 90% to avoid clipping and then adjust the gain with the CD deck. I haven't put it in my car yet though.
Steering Wheel Controls for Car PC
Has anyone tried the Joycon steering wheel control system with an android yet? It supports HID and no drivers are required for windows. It says that it cannot be programed from a linux or mac computer but just windows. Though once its programed it can be used with linux. Im thinking USB OTG plus this guy and you could control the tablet right from the steering wheel.
The solder will last fine on that job. The only thing I would be concerned about is getting false "presses" from the one lead that's soldered to the middle touching the outside ring. Perhaps just place a piece of electrical tape under it. Your other option might be to go straight from the connector the the flex plugs into. Just use a multimeter to test which pins you need to tap.
Thank you so much.
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just wanna thank the hell out of you. I have been searching and measuring that tiny little cable for about 2 hours now trying to find a connector and cable the right pitch/pins. Somehow the magical world of google brought me here. A site, despite my post numbers, I frequent very often. I'm installing the tablet in my car as well and I too needed a solution to the power button. Cant believe I didnt think to check here. You posted this just a few days ago. Crazy. Once again thank you. I should be able to pull this off no problem.
---------- Post added at 07:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------
Oh and by the way any issues with this so far? I dont imagine you have seeing as a switch on the to ends of the wire are doing exactly what the little foil button does. Just wanted to ask though before I commit to this in a couple of days.
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Being a USB fan, I'd try to see if a custom USB device could do the job.
Just recently I made a USB volume control for Windows.
It works on my Nook Touch too.
Omyn said:
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
dmexs said:
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted on the google music + external storage because i will be doing that soon aswell.
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
bitbang3r said:
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried this. I've just been using my externalized power button to wake the device from both warm and cold off states. I have a CNX-2140 power supply from my old car PC setup that has an ACPI pulse. I use this to wake the device from a warm sleep.
Thanks you XDA for being here. Just solved half of the problem my friend was having for his tablet . Mounting it in a 2006 Mustang. Now, Gotta see if he can use the POGO for charging and a USB OTG for the external camera
its help!! thanks!
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 AM ----------
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks
Hello,
Where can I find a good replacement for HD2 digitizer?
I have Windows Phone 7.8 on it (I had the same problem on Android) and sometimes when I am using it, the digitizer registers my touches wrong.
Seems to be the left side is most affected by this - Like when I press e, it presses q also, or w then q too. Also happens with s (a) and symbols. Cannot even pinch to zoom.
This has rendered my HD2 a unpractical phone. It started randomly last summer.
Should I change the digitizer in this case or is there something I can try?
Also, my input jack is messed up - when I have a headphone connected to it and the plug shakes in the slightest - The phone things I want to pause the song or play it. Also activates the voice search which is a freaking PAIN.
Can anyone please help me and tell me what I should do about these issues?
Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.
Mister B said:
Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But does this issue seem related to digitizer being faulty or just a cable a bit damaged? Sometimes the issue appears and sometimes it doesn't.
Ribbon on digitizer is all one piece & any permanent repair usually is only really achieved by replacement of digitizer.
I have had similar issues of screen presses activating other area on screen & dead zones on digitizer error & also the more common no touch issue, all required digitizer to fix .
Anyone know where to find a replacement jack in the USA??
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Thought I should be polite and post the answer...
My display issue was a small internal cable connecting the mainboard to the display daughterboard. It was physically damaged, probably upon assembly.
The antenna issue was a VR on the mainboard was not outputting any voltage. Joying pointed it out to me and I verified with a multimeter. Probably a defective part.
I returned the defective head unit (was $$$ - price of buying from China, I suppose) and they promptly sent a replacement. The replacement did everything correctly, has been installed for a week now.
There are definitely some built-in quirks with these things which probably don't need to be reiterated here. Hopefully with some software tweaks I can manage most of them. This is all expected - the hardware works, and in my head that's all I was paying for anyway.
Now, to go find a better music player, launcher, and hopefully a simple way to actually shut the head unit down rather than sleeping it... this car tends to sit for a week or two at a time and the small (~.010a) draw puts the battery at risk over such long intervals.
Just out of curiosity, how much was shipping to return it back to them?
Did they offer to cover any of that?
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Gayan said:
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
surfer63 said:
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an older post, but I am troubleshooting this same issue now. I believe this is (or at least should be) possible. Here are my findings from 3x different Joying models that I have tested.
UL135N2: Android 5.1? (This is the best/desired functionality)
* Power antenna extends when power on to the HU only if the radio app/tuner is active. (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also extends when opening radio app. Antenna stays extended when using home button instead of back button to switch to another non-audio player app. Radio app keeps running and antenna stays extended when switching to nav app.
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also retracts when closing radio app via back button or switching to another audio app (ie..BT radio, aux, etc.) after using home button while radio app is running.
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135P4V: Android 8.0 (This is OK because the volume knob power at least controls the antenna)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU whether radio app is active or inactive (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135N4G: Android 8.1 (This is worst functionality of all units so far)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU
* Power antenna will NOT retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts after several minutes when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
2000 Toyota 4Runner Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow (or Blue/Black)
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination Purple (Violet)
Dimmer N/A
Antenna Trigger Black/White
Amp Trigger N/A
Joying HU Pinout - (Note that N/A means that there is nothing available for this connection in the vehicle wiring)
Constant 12V+ (BATT) Yellow
Switched 12V+ (ACC) Red
Ground (GND) Black
Illumination (ILLUM) Orange+White
Antenna (ANT.CONT) Blue
Dimmer N/A
N/A (BACK) Orange
N/A (BRAKE) Blue+White
N/A (AMP.CONT) Orange+Black
N/A (KEY1) Brown
N/A (KEY2) Pink
N/A (CAM.IN) Yellow RCA
I am currently using a Toyota harness supplied by Joying. I plan to swap the amp.cont & ant.cont wires per some other posts to see if that might work. I found that the Metra 70-1761 harness seems to jump the amp & ant wires in the harness.
On another note, there are a couple settings (Antenna always on & Amp ON/Off) in the HU that seem to have no affect on functionality. I have reported this to Joying, but they "do not support this feature".
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
fdm225 said:
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that you'd need 12v on the ANT-CONT wire if you don't have a power antenna. Just connect the AMP-CONT to your amplifier and you should be good to go.
thesameguy said:
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bring this back
i dug into my car setting developer mode, where do you find the "antenna always on" option from?
I am afraid I have no recollection, but I might be able to poke around this weekend & let you know.
(As a side note, in case I didn't post it at the time - the problem with the antenna turned out to be the mainboard... I traced the circuit and found no output from the stereo under any conditions. It was eventually replaced.)
Hey guys,
My brother installed a Nexus 7 into his dash and soldered wires onto the power ribbon cable similar to what Bossman137 did. He attached a toggle switch to this but I'd like to replace it with an illuminated momentary switch similar to this. I'm aware the switch will need power to light the LED but I'm unsure how I'd wire this.