Database Users

Is the aria camera interpolated?

It seems to have artifacts that you only get on an interpolated camera... Or maybe I am just imagining it?
Does anyone know if the camera is a true native 5MP device? Anyone got details on the actual sensor used?

combustiblemonkey said:
It seems to have artifacts that you only get on an interpolated camera... Or maybe I am just imagining it?
Does anyone know if the camera is a true native 5MP device? Anyone got details on the actual sensor used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably compression artifacts.. Unfortunately I know of no way to look at a jpg and see what the compression was, but you can guess by how large the image is, assuming it's a fairly complex image..
For a reasonably complex image, 5MP should be around 2M if the compression was low, a fairly high level of compression would possibly be more around 1M. Again, there's no way to really definitively tell.

Any way to save as raw?
Sent from my HTC Liberty using XDA App

What does interpolated mean
Sent from my HTC Aria

from what I heard atleast, the htc camera app in general heavily compresses the images which may be causing the artifacts you are seeing. It was suggested to me to try out some 3rd party camera apps that don't compress the image or atleast not as much.
Vignette was suggested to me, but I've yet to try it out. I've read it has some problems with 5mp cameras. I'm still searching around to see what would be my best option.

sunny342 said:
What does interpolated mean
Sent from my HTC Aria
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.google.com/search?q=interpolated

Thanks for the recommendation on Vignette. The photo quality is SO much better than with the stock camera app.
I noticed that the photos I take come out quite grainy and noisy. Perhaps someone can guide me on the proper settings to use? Or is noise simply unavoidable due to the Aria's low end (??) camera hardware?

hi2u2 said:
Thanks for the recommendation on Vignette. The photo quality is SO much better than with the stock camera app.
I noticed that the photos I take come out quite grainy and noisy. Perhaps someone can guide me on the proper settings to use? Or is noise simply unavoidable due to the Aria's low end (??) camera hardware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cameraphone, it's going to be grainy and noisy unless it has very good lighting. Even then it'll be soft and featureless because it's a cheap sensor with a cheap plastic lens.
It's not a real camera.

camera image quality

I was curious about the camera image quality of the shift. My pictures always turn out very noisy and washed out. I have read around and found the same complaints but no answers on improvement. My 1.5mp first gen Sony camera takes a better picture. I have the exact same issues on the stock HTC, other sense roms and CM7 nightly. The quality of the image changes very little. I am looking to get a decently clear picture. I do not expect perfection from a cell phone but when I see the 100% full size picture it's really bad even in on a perfect sunny day. I see the improve image patch that I have not downloaded yet. Is there a camera app that will take a better image ? Is the kernel code for the camera a possibly culprit ?
I know there are a lot of programs like camera 360 but that's not exactly want I am looking for.
It's a little disappointing to have a 5mp camera that is not very good. I could deal with a little washed out color but all the pixelation is what I don't like at the full 5mp resolution when on my computer. Thanks for any responses and help in advance
Richard

Improved image patch?
Sent from my PG06100 using XDA App

Ya, saw it as a suggested thread when I started to type my subject. I have not tried it. I believe it was for the shift
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i was wrong for motorola phone boo !

Are you sure you set the image quality to 5 mp first? I own a really nice 16 mp canon camera, and the shift with 5 mp takes far better pictures, even in bad lighting.
Then again, I rarely take photos, I take videos then remove the frames I want as photos, ensures I always get the picture I want.

yes, it is set at 5mp. I have tried lower ISO and all the tricks but it isn't still blurry and lots of pixelation.
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riche1 said:
I was curious about the camera image quality of the shift. My pictures always turn out very noisy and washed out. I have read around and found the same complaints but no answers on improvement. My 1.5mp first gen Sony camera takes a better picture. I have the exact same issues on the stock HTC, other sense roms and CM7 nightly. The quality of the image changes very little. I am looking to get a decently clear picture. I do not expect perfection from a cell phone but when I see the 100% full size picture it's really bad even in on a perfect sunny day. I see the improve image patch that I have not downloaded yet. Is there a camera app that will take a better image ? Is the kernel code for the camera a possibly culprit ?
I know there are a lot of programs like camera 360 but that's not exactly want I am looking for.
It's a little disappointing to have a 5mp camera that is not very good. I could deal with a little washed out color but all the pixelation is what I don't like at the full 5mp resolution when on my computer. Thanks for any responses and help in advance
Richard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well THIS article helped me .

Just a login screen
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My shift takes pretty good images...in the right conditions.
Low light conditions almost always produce ruinous pictures. The picture displays huge amounts of noise in these cases. Flash is generally not helpful.
Choosing the ISO manually shows improvement, and I personally prefer the Touch focus mode. When shooting outdoors in daylight, I usually get very nice pictures, particularly if I shoot in 5MP and then downsize them.

riche1 said:
Just a login screen
Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try the link below instead . Same link only posted different.
http://www.tested.com/news/how-to-take-better-photos-on-your-android-phone/430/

Same thing. Can cut n paste the article? I think I might seen this on androidfourms.com
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I'll try and get it on here for you later
TEAM MiK
Mik Roms Since 3/13/11

Thanks
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Here's the article, sorry it took so long
Tested NewsRSS Email Us a Story
How To Take Better Photos on Your Android Phone
The cameras keep getting higher in resolution, but there's more to getting good shots than the hardware.
By Ryan Whitwam
| June 14, 2010
.It's become common for even mid-range Android phones to come with some impressive cameras. A five megapixel sensor is usually present in most smartphones, and that means you can get some pretty reasonable point-and-shoot type images. A phone's camera may not be replacing your dedicated camera anytime soon, but you have to work with what you have. If all you have with you is a phone, you might as well maximize the image quality. Android has made some strides in the image capture department in the 2.1 and upcoming 2.2 updates.
Read on as we tell you how to get the most out of your Android phone's camera. The app that comes with the phone is the one most people will inevitably use, but we'll also tell you which third-party apps can add useful functionality.
Zooming[/B
]Zooming is something we've all become accustomed to on real cameras. A standalone camera most likely has optical zoom. This enlarges an image by using movable lens elements to vary the focal length. With optical zoom, quality is not lost. With the digital zoom used in phones, you are basically cropping out pixels at the edge and blowing up what's left. The result is a poorer quality image. We recommend not zooming in if at all possible, since you can always crop an image after the fact using desktop software. The only time you should use your camera's zoom is when you have to send that photo off on the phone without any post-cropping.
Stock Android phones running on 2.1 and earlier have access to zoom controls in the form of plus/minus buttons on the screen, but it only moves in steps. In 2.2 Google is adding a zoom slider to the on-screen controls. Camera Pro and Camera Zoom FX can add that functionality now for a few bucks. Sense UI phones have long had access to digital zoom in the camera app. The ease of use depends on the underlying Android software version. On Android 2.1 builds of Sense, users are presented with a large friendly scroll wheel to adjust the zoom.
The zoom option is there if you need it, but we suggest only using it when you have to. Even then, zoom only as much as you have to. Each step you zoom means fewer pixels in the final image. The small images sensors on these phones tend to have more noise than standard cameras, and the more you zoom, the more noticeable that will be.
Flash
Next, you need to keep track of your flash settings. Cell phones use LED flashes, which are nice as they don't use very much power. However, they tend to light a subject more harshly than a more natural-looking Xenon flash on a real camera might (this happens even at a distance).
It's always a good idea to turn the flash off when you don't need it. The stock Android camera app has a tendency to overuse the flash when it is set on auto. If you take a picture in medium light and the flash goes off unexpectedly, try it again with the flash off. We often find the resulting image to be preferable to the one with the flash.
Focusing
What's the good of taking a photo if it isn't going to be in focus? Android phones made early use of autofocus cameras and that means better images. Phones with hardware camera buttons sometimes employ a two-step mechanism like a real camera. That means you can depress the button halfway to focus, then recompose and press it the rest of the way to capture the image. This is helpful in that it can allow you to change up the framing without capturing an image if the focus doesn't look right.
On a phone like the Nexus One without a hardware shutter button, you can get similar functionality. When you press the on-screen shutter button, you can hold your finger there to inspect the focus. If you don't like it, just slide your finger off without removing it from the screen. This will let you try again without taking the image. Similarly, if using a trackball/trackpad as the shutter, depress to focus, and if you wish to abandon the image you can tap the screen.
Sense UI phones have a different trick up their sleeve when it comes to focusing. These phones have tap to focus, a feature we originally saw in the iPhone 3GS. You can tap anywhere in the frame to have the camera autofocus for that spot. This is functionality we have not yet been able to replicate on stock Android phones through apps.
Image size
The next thing to be aware of is what type of image quality you need. The default setting on most phones is maximum quality. That's fine if you intend to take important images to keep. But if you're just taking a snapshot to email to a friend, or send in an MMS, you don't need the highest resolution image.
A full resolution image from an 8MP camera like that in the Incredible or EVO 4G could be well over 1MB. If you're on a non-unlimited data plan, sending a large image via MMS may not be a viable option at all. All the stock apps, as well as third-party camera apps will allow you to change the resolution of the image being captured.
This is also a good idea if you need to take several photos in quick succession. Android can be a little slow to write images to the SD card and prepare for the next shot. By reducing the overall image size, you can get more shots in. This functionality is available from the onscreen controls of all the stock apps. Some third party apps hide this functionality in the settings menu.
Fine tuning
These camera phones are getting closer and closer to being the real thing, as evidenced by the plethora of image effects they can use. Stock Android 2.2 (and Sense UI) and higher phones can take advantage of different exposure settings. The exposure is just the amount of light allowed to hit the image sensor. This can be used to compensate for conditions that are too light or dark, bringing out detail. If you need a flash, but it makes the image a little too bright (common with LED flashes), you can try again with a lower exposure. Change the exposure around while composing a shot. The Android camera will change the preview to approximate chosen exposure. Stock Android 2.1 is unable to alter these values, so you'll have to wait for the 2.2 update.
You can also get better color representation by changing the white balance. The auto setting is usually fine, but we've found Android phones can get confused, especially in low light. This often leaves us with warm, almost orange pictures. If your phone is taking images that look to warm or cold, try setting the white balance to the type of light you're shooting under. You have options like incandescent, daylight, fluorescent, and cloudy.
Sense UI phones (even on 2.1) have all these tweaks and more. HTC has added a number of options to their Android interface that doesn't exist for stock phones. There is an option to change metering mode to spot, center, or average. This controls how the phone samples to determine how to expose the shot. This can be helpful if your subject is lighted differently from the rest of the shot. We find this useful for times when we're taking a backlit shot.
Sense UI also builds in ISO settings. ISO is basically how sensitive the image sensor is to light. A higher ISO will allow you to capture motion better, but the image will be grainier. The sensors on phones tend to handle motion pretty poorly, so this is a nice addition on HTC's part. We haven't found any apps that allow stock Android to do any of this either. Camera 360 is a new app with some fun filters, and it offers an ISO option, but we found it did not work on stock Android 2.1 or 2.2. It seems HTC rolled their own code for this.
With a little thought, you can capture completely respectable images with your Android phone. We feel that the most important first step is setting up the shot correctly. You have to evaluate if you need the flash on or not, and if you can avoid zooming. Make sure to examine the preview after your handset focuses before you take the image. In our experience, the stock apps that come with your phone will do nearly everything you need.
Most of the third party apps don't add much functionality beyond some effect filters. The only exception may be timer and timer and burst mode, which you can get from an app like Camera Zoom FX. Sense phones, of course, have this built in. Do you have any camera tips for Android? Any apps you've found that bring something meaningful to the experience?

Thanks this helps
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Here to help
TEAM MiK
Mik Roms Since 3/13/11

I don't get it, every single picture I take is blurry and very noisy no matter what. You can not tell until you see the full resolution size 2592x1936. I don't need to save all pictures this size but I do a lot of cycling events that I would like to take good pictures at. My hope was to be able to have some nice larger photos to print . It would save me from buying a DC. I have noticed that older pictures before my rom flash are the same way.
The camera on my 3yr old crappy ATT samsung took clear pictures.Some were a little noisy because of lighting but not near as bad as this .
I am starting to wonder if my sensor is defective or my lens is scratched . I would attach a picture but the restrictions here would not allow it. Thanks for the help again. I guess I am SOL

What Rom are you on?

I have another camera related question. I have the CM7 nightly, my camera always freezed when I am waiting for a next shoot for too long, I have to take out the battery to reboot. Can anyone give some advices.

I am using cm7 nightlies. I have tried all roms with the sane results . As for the other question, did u format data,system, cache and dalvik cache( spelling) ?
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Samsung Galaxy Camera vs Canon PowerShot SX260 HS

Ok guys, I have a "blind test" for you. Which one of this 2 photos, u like best.
Both camera settings were: P-mode, ISO100, Spot light metering, SuperFine quality, 0.0x optical zoom, no flash (in-door lighting), AWB.
Since I use P-mode, the Aperture and Shutter speed were automatically set by each camera.
PS: I will add more photos to this blind test, the left side will always be photos from *censored* and the right side will always be photos from *censored*
After the poll closed, I will tell you the "identity" of the left photos and the right photos.

If you want everyone to vote, you need to add an "I can't see any material difference" option to the poll .

Claghorn said:
If you want everyone to vote, you need to add an "I can't see any material difference" option to the poll .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL.. forget about that "option"... but i can't edit the poll... is there a way to edit the voting poll?

In my opinion, the one on the right is a bit grainier, and both of them are a little soft on focus. Would really prefer to see both cameras at the same distances (ideally one with no zoom and one with) shooting at a standard target. DPreview has a good example for the PowerShot, but neither they nor their "Connect" site has a Galaxy Camera review.

after zooming in it seems the one on the left is a bit sharper.
and you left the exif data in, so it's still possible to tell which is which if you download the pictures.
I voted before checking which was made with which camera.

EwanG said:
In my opinion, the one on the right is a bit grainier, and both of them are a little soft on focus. Would really prefer to see both cameras at the same distances (ideally one with no zoom and one with) shooting at a standard target. DPreview has a good example for the PowerShot, but neither they nor their "Connect" site has a Galaxy Camera review.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About the zoom feature, SGC anti-shake is really bad. I shot an object with maximum optical zoom (21x) using a tripod, and still couldn't get a clear shot. The problem is, when we hit the shutter button, our finger pressure on the shutter button will make the camera move albeit really little (almost unnoticeable). The anti-shake should compensate for this, but it doesn't.
With the Canon camera and a tripod, I can get a clear shot easily using max optical zoom 20x which means the anti-shake does the job well.
My personal solution for this is, I use 2 seconds timer. After I hit the shutter button, I immediately lift my hands of the camera (it is on the tripod) so the camera has enough time to get back into "steady position" and I can get a clear shot.
thedicemaster said:
after zooming in it seems the one on the left is a bit sharper.
and you left the exif data in, so it's still possible to tell which is which if you download the pictures.
I voted before checking which was made with which camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, yeah, I know about the EXIF, just doesn't bother to delete it. Figures if the participants really wants to know the answer immediately, they could just download the pic and read it themselves :laugh:

Using voice control also prevents the button press from shaking the camera, but it does seem silly to talk to your camera (and it only worked well for me in very quiet conditions when I was playing with it).

Claghorn said:
Using voice control also prevents the button press from shaking the camera, but it does seem silly to talk to your camera (and it only worked well for me in very quiet conditions when I was playing with it).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As most of the photos I take a in quiet locations (in the middle of the woods) this seems like it would benefit the technologically equipped nature enthusiast. My curiosity lays with the camera/phone durability in the elements and the quality of the shots while on the go. Versatility of those qualities would sell this product to me.
Other qualities I seek are how the camera responds to IR lighting at night and how it handles the common accidental drop.
I think this guy is the start of a beautiful line of products we should hope to see in the future. It would definitely halt my project of creating a USB 76mm zoom attachment for the daily smart phone. (that's as much detail as you'll get until I finish! If I finish...)

80000037 said:
About the zoom feature, SGC anti-shake is really bad. I shot an object with maximum optical zoom (21x) using a tripod, and still couldn't get a clear shot. The problem is, when we hit the shutter button, our finger pressure on the shutter button will make the camera move albeit really little (almost unnoticeable). The anti-shake should compensate for this, but it doesn't.
With the Canon camera and a tripod, I can get a clear shot easily using max optical zoom 20x which means the anti-shake does the job well.
My personal solution for this is, I use 2 seconds timer. After I hit the shutter button, I immediately lift my hands of the camera (it is on the tripod) so the camera has enough time to get back into "steady position" and I can get a clear shot.
LOL, yeah, I know about the EXIF, just doesn't bother to delete it. Figures if the participants really wants to know the answer immediately, they could just download the pic and read it themselves :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium

uberNoobZA said:
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't comment on this camera in particular as I don't have it "yet" but I am a photographer and I can confirm that using stabilization whilst on a tripod can have the adverse affect on the image and is generally better for the image quality if you turn it off, if you are using a tripod. There can be exceptions to this however, if you're using a telephoto lens (or in the case of this camera, using the zoom guilt extended) and there is slight movement in the camera from wind for example.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

uberNoobZA said:
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RavenY2K3 said:
I can't comment on this camera in particular as I don't have it "yet" but I am a photographer and I can confirm that using stabilization whilst on a tripod can have the adverse affect on the image and is generally better for the image quality if you turn it off, if you are using a tripod. There can be exceptions to this however, if you're using a telephoto lens (or in the case of this camera, using the zoom guilt extended) and there is slight movement in the camera from wind for example.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you saying that if I want to shot with 21x optical zoom + tripod, I should just turn off the anti-shake?

80000037 said:
So are you saying that if I want to shot with 21x optical zoom + tripod, I should just turn off the anti-shake?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the guidance for most OIS systems is that if the camera is on a tripod you should turn off anti-shake as the device will then keep trying to compensate for something that isn't there. You end up burning battery, and the lens will often make micro moves to compensate for what "should" be there.
The one exception would be if the tripod itself isn't stable (wind, etc), but then you would question what the point to using the tripod is in that case.

Left pic is sharper.

I think the left is more vibrant.

Rather than ISO100, how about 800 or higher? Almost any camera, even the cheapest, can do OK at ISO100 in good light.

Entropy512 said:
Rather than ISO100, how about 800 or higher? Almost any camera, even the cheapest, can do OK at ISO100 in good light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do ISO 100 on purpose.
SGC noise is bad starting from ISO800 and up, while the Canon still has good quality pic on ISO800 and up.
If I compare the pic on ISO800 plus, everyone will easily know which one the canon and which one the SGC
please note that my purpose showing this comparation is not to show that SGC pic quality can beat or on par with Canon SX260, I just want to show that for normal photography, SGC is sufficient enough.

first of all i'm not a professional photographer and based from my point of view, left picture is more vibrant than the right picture.

Making the most out of the camera

Hey guys, would just like to start a discussion on tips/tweaks that are possible on the edge's camera. I'm by no means a professional photographer but would like to learn how to take a good photo from a smartphone. Maybe someone who is pro and in the know can help.
Tbh, its not like edge's cam is bad but I envy the iphone 6's camera performance especially in too bright (they just come off darker) and low light (not bright enough) scenarios. This is most apparent when I try to take a spherical/panoramic shot with google camera, the sky wont just have the same 'brightness' when the spherical photo is stitched completely.
It seems Ip6 users can just take good photos effortlessly. In dark scenarios, ip6 users have that feature where you can just click on the area thats too dark and it magically becomes brighter without spoiling the overall photo quality.
Spec wise the edge's cam should be superior so imo the edge cam can perform close to if not as good as the ip6's with the right settings/tweaks. So hoping someone can share their knowledge regarding this. Thank you.

I love the camera so far. I also use Procamera and A Better Camera. I downloaded the add ons and am playimg with them all. I really like the placement of the controls on the Edge. It takes a bit to get used to in landscape mode, however. I would like a "low light" or "night" setting. Maybe I just haven't found it yet!
Update 2/9/15: found out the camera automatically switches to night mode in low light. Pretty cool!

I've been using Camera Zoom FX for when I need the most amount of manual adjustments to my camera.
Most the time the stock camera app can handle most situations but sometimes manual is needed and Camera Zoom has always done the job for me.
But this is an app that requires some photography knowledge and not sure if this is what you are looking for since you are looking for something that is easy to use like the I6 camera.

I've been playing more and more with the camera. I am really liking it. I was getting frustrated with the "shot and more" mode until I realized some only work in the landscape mode. Panning really gives a great effect,! This api is very intuitive. I hear the Lollipop version is even better. Can't wait.

Are there any recommended setting for the Camera ?
Thanks

I've been playing around with it and usually leave it at a lower size (between 2-3m). I find you have to hold it really still. Action shot mode always comes out more blurry. I tend to like the shot and more mode so I can choose the best picture. Auto does great for closeups and distant, plus I like how it automatically changes to night mode in darker settings.
If you are having difficulty, try a higher ISO, like 800. I had to do that on my HTC Inspire.

May i know which canera audio file to delete when click in android 6?
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best alternative camera app?

I loved X-cam on my lg g3. Is there a better camera app for quick Quito mode pictures than the stock g6 one with all it's exciting and sharpening. Pictures look great infill you zoom in at all. I love it for manual mode and timelapse. But not on IG so the square camera is stupid IMO. Just looking for good alt. To the stock one. Camera 360 was decent but even with paid version the UI is awful

I too am looking at 3rd party cameras. But the ones i have are no better and don't do HDR well or panorama well and some are very slow to take a picture. I can't find a camera app to do panoramas well in HD. they're low resolution or stitched all messed up. I gave up on ever doing panoramas with this phone. Every panoramic picture i take is messed up. so much for those reviews on the test units saying it takes flawless panoramas. Also the apps i tried doesn't let me use the wide angle lens either. bummer.

railfan-eric said:
I too am looking at 3rd party cameras. But the ones i have are no better and don't do HDR well or panorama well and some are very slow to take a picture. I can't find a camera app to do panoramas well in HD. they're low resolution or stitched all messed up. I gave up on ever doing panoramas with this phone. Every panoramic picture i take is messed up. so much for those reviews on the test units saying it takes flawless panoramas. Also the apps i tried doesn't let me use the wide angle lens either. bummer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used panorama flawlessly. But IMO with the new wide angle there's almost zero need for panorama unless up close.

lg3FTW said:
I've used panorama flawlessly. But IMO with the new wide angle there's almost zero need for panorama unless up close.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the trees don't get double images in panoramas? Both this phone and the original has this problem.
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

railfan-eric said:
So the trees don't get double images in panoramas? Both this phone and the original has this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never had a issue. I tend to not use the wide lens for panorama though. 2nd pic the road dips a bit that's all. 1st pic is only a 3 part panorama not super huge