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Stumbled upon this a bit ago, a company called Mobile Tech is offering an "unbricking" service on all versions of the Galaxy Tab. At the time of this writing they charge $50. I have not used this service, am not in any affiliated with this company and cannot vouch for their work, so beware. Just thought someone out there might use this when other options aren't available.
They have a nifty video up on youtube showing how they do it:
it will be a good help for those who brick their tab because they ain't follow the steps .. thanks for sharing this out
I can actually vouch third party for this service. Have had two friends use it and the device was returned within a few days. If I'm not mistaken, the guy lives in the southern US, but can arrange international he says.
Sent from my "better than an iPad" tab... Running Overcome GINGERBREAD!!!
This is cool, but I would recommend trying to go through Samsung first if you are still under warranty. I screwed up my primary bootloader and contacted them. They took care of shipping costs, fixed it up, and sent it back in about a week and a half. If Samsung hadn't fixed it I would defiantly have payed the $50 here though.
WOW, that seems like a lot of work for $50.
Thanks for the info, should I ever screw something up its nice to know there are people out there who can clean up my mess!
spacemoose1 said:
a company called Mobile Tech is offering an "unbricking" service on all versions of the Galaxy Tab.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi spacemoose1
Thanks for link and as always, thanks for honeycomb port. I would like to ascertain the definition of BRICK? with your help, if I may.
(disclaimer: pls forgive my wrong terms or exagerated explanation, but most importantly, pls correct me if I'm wrong)
BRICKed = software total lost, must use JTAG to force revive it, Samsung has it, or buy from web supplier around 300 USD ??? 500 USD ???
JTAG is a device to push software into all newly borned IC. I.E. when factory make IC, it's empty software inside, hence has a special device to push voltage into all sections of the IC, then force the code in.
Another term is ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???, (I don't know) anyway is not BRICKed, hence a reflash can recover it.
Samsung uses proprietary method a lot, not follow conventional, make usb driver very complex. USB driver install EXE around 15MB to 28MB depends on version, ALL work the same.
but, when the device = sgt7 in different state/condition, the driver must RE-ESTABLISH again, or else cannot work.
I.E.
state 1 = "OPERATIONAL"device in android operation, normal use, surf web, phone call etc
state 2 = "SLEEP" device powered off, show battery big icon charging when powered by charger
state 3 = RECOVERY mode
state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode - this is one of the way to FORCE flash to recover, as long as bootloader and something still intact
state 5 = PHONE-!-PC mode
stage 6 = "COMA" device powered off, NO show of battery big icon, even when charger supplied. Don't panic, let it charge fully 4 hours from 2 amperes supply, 10 hours from PC 500mA. It will start again !!!. Battery big icon will appear around 30% battery charged, I know because that's what I saw. I didn't check when it's in 10% or 20%. The 1st time I check was already 30% up from no-boot or no respone.
User need to plug device into PC during each of the state above at least once, in order for various flashing functions to work.
i.e. when it's a newly arrived device, usually install the usb driver 1st, with device state in android OS running properly, then plug in to USB and see "new device detected" installing, pls wait. Finished.
But when flashing via Odin using state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, user may experience no connection, no COM3 or something. Because device must be unplugged in USB, power-up in state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, plug in USB, "new device detected" installing = RE-ESTABLISH, done. UNPLUG USB, replug in usb, then COM3 appears FLASH will be succesfull.
same goes for other state.
p.s. many users reported BRICKed but then recovered WITHOUT JTAG is misleading beginners, hence should rename the term to ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???. although some previously use "SEMI-brick", which is acceptable.
stage 3 = ClockWorkMod flashing (super convenient, especially on the move without PC)
stage 4 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
stage 5 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
???CRASH??? or ???HANG??? or "SEMI-brick" is usually SUCCESFULLY recovered via restock+PIT
(final disclaimer, incase above is correct and help and is copied, pls correct whatever mistakes found, feel free.)
*** Thanks for all those who taught me my mistakes *** devs and fellow forumers
ManticoreX said:
This is cool, but I would recommend trying to go through Samsung first if you are still under warranty. I screwed up my primary bootloader and contacted them. They took care of shipping costs, fixed it up, and sent it back in about a week and a half. If Samsung hadn't fixed it I would defiantly have payed the $50 here though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, warranty repair is always a better choice. But sometimes you've already voided the warranty, lol.
I guess, if u change factory installed rom/kernel warranty gonna be history
thanx for the post ... it might gonna be the last resort...
cx5 said:
Hi spacemoose1
Thanks for link and as always, thanks for honeycomb port. I would like to ascertain the definition of BRICK? with your help, if I may.
(disclaimer: pls forgive my wrong terms or exagerated explanation, but most importantly, pls correct me if I'm wrong)
BRICKed = software total lost, must use JTAG to force revive it, Samsung has it, or buy from web supplier around 300 USD ??? 500 USD ???
JTAG is a device to push software into all newly borned IC. I.E. when factory make IC, it's empty software inside, hence has a special device to push voltage into all sections of the IC, then force the code in.
Another term is ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???, (I don't know) anyway is not BRICKed, hence a reflash can recover it.
Samsung uses proprietary method a lot, not follow conventional, make usb driver very complex. USB driver install EXE around 15MB to 28MB depends on version, ALL work the same.
but, when the device = sgt7 in different state/condition, the driver must RE-ESTABLISH again, or else cannot work.
I.E.
state 1 = "OPERATIONAL"device in android operation, normal use, surf web, phone call etc
state 2 = "SLEEP" device powered off, show battery big icon charging when powered by charger
state 3 = RECOVERY mode
state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode - this is one of the way to FORCE flash to recover, as long as bootloader and something still intact
state 5 = PHONE-!-PC mode
stage 6 = "COMA" device powered off, NO show of battery big icon, even when charger supplied. Don't panic, let it charge fully 4 hours from 2 amperes supply, 10 hours from PC 500mA. It will start again !!!. Battery big icon will appear around 30% battery charged, I know because that's what I saw. I didn't check when it's in 10% or 20%. The 1st time I check was already 30% up from no-boot or no respone.
User need to plug device into PC during each of the state above at least once, in order for various flashing functions to work.
i.e. when it's a newly arrived device, usually install the usb driver 1st, with device state in android OS running properly, then plug in to USB and see "new device detected" installing, pls wait. Finished.
But when flashing via Odin using state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, user may experience no connection, no COM3 or something. Because device must be unplugged in USB, power-up in state 4 = DOWNLOAD mode, plug in USB, "new device detected" installing = RE-ESTABLISH, done. UNPLUG USB, replug in usb, then COM3 appears FLASH will be succesfull.
same goes for other state.
p.s. many users reported BRICKed but then recovered WITHOUT JTAG is misleading beginners, hence should rename the term to ???CRASH??? or ???HANG???. although some previously use "SEMI-brick", which is acceptable.
stage 3 = ClockWorkMod flashing (super convenient, especially on the move without PC)
stage 4 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
stage 5 = Odin / Heimdall both works (still convenient and easy )
???CRASH??? or ???HANG??? or "SEMI-brick" is usually SUCCESFULLY recovered via restock+PIT
(final disclaimer, incase above is correct and help and is copied, pls correct whatever mistakes found, feel free.)
*** Thanks for all those who taught me my mistakes *** devs and fellow forumers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pretty much agree, but I might refine:
BRICK= Unit does not power up, visibly charge, reach a boot-screen of any kind including a service or "download" screen. A device in this state requires service from the manufacturer or an individual equipped with the proper tools. There is no other way to recover a device in this state.
SOFT-BRICK= Unit powers up, reaches a "download" or service screen, visibly charges but does not boot into an OS. Crashing, hanging etc. all apply here. It is easy to recover a device from this state so long as one has access to a firmware that was designed for the device and the ability to flash said firmware.
SEMI-BRICK= See soft-brick above
JTAG= Provides access to system hardware by applying the correct voltage to the correct pins in order to push software via an external program.
In regards to the usb drivers, there are only actually 4 states
1. Active userspace
2. Serial gadget mode
3. Recovery
4. USB storage mode
And there is a separate driver for each of these (except recovery) in the Samsung driver package that should install automatically when the device is plugged in during normal use on a stock rom, or with the installation package available on the web.
The rest of it you've got pretty much correct.
Money seems right, but the amount of work that guy has to go thru is amazing, so much to tare it apart, and reassemble. Then again when it is put back toether, he checks it, what if it did not take the fix... all over again.
Hardbricked Tab Save by Mobile Tech
I hardbricked my galaxy tab bought in Cambodia. My little brother open the tab trying to take the battery off and put it back on, thus void the warranty, found him on the Samsung vibrant forum, sent the tab to him got it back good as new. This person is professional, honest and good communication with his customers, you'll be happy with his work, if he can't fix it you get your money back (minus shipping and diagnosis)...Glad he is arround to help...
spacemoose1 said:
I pretty much agree, but I might refine:
BRICK= Unit does not power up, visibly charge, reach a boot-screen of any kind including a service or "download" screen. A device in this state requires service from the manufacturer or an individual equipped with the proper tools. There is no other way to recover a device in this state.
SOFT-BRICK= Unit powers up, reaches a "download" or service screen, visibly charges but does not boot into an OS. Crashing, hanging etc. all apply here. It is easy to recover a device from this state so long as one has access to a firmware that was designed for the device and the ability to flash said firmware.
SEMI-BRICK= See soft-brick above
JTAG= Provides access to system hardware by applying the correct voltage to the correct pins in order to push software via an external program.
In regards to the usb drivers, there are only actually 4 states
1. Active userspace
2. Serial gadget mode
3. Recovery
4. USB storage mode
And there is a separate driver for each of these (except recovery) in the Samsung driver package that should install automatically when the device is plugged in during normal use on a stock rom, or with the installation package available on the web.
The rest of it you've got pretty much correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should post this in Q/A thread on its own as its very helpful and maybe it will stop the 1% of people saying help my phone is bricked comments ... the other 99% don't read anyway otherwise they would discover their phone isn't bricked and if they read properly it would not have gotten to the state in the first place .. and no I never posted something like that myself >:¬}
but well done on this..
alexgogan said:
You should post this in Q/A thread on its own as its very helpful and maybe it will stop the 1% of people saying help my phone is bricked comments ... the other 99% don't read anyway otherwise they would discover their phone isn't bricked and if they read properly it would not have gotten to the state in the first place .. and no I never posted something like that myself >:¬}
but well done on this..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
Nice find. For that amount of effort disassembling, and reviving, $50 is a very realistic price. I'll keep these guys in mind if I run into issues with my tab.
$50 for that much work is an absolute bargain! I wish I didn't live in a country where you get charged $200/hr for someone to pick their nose.
It's actually not that much more difficult than popping an OS install CD into a hosed computer and pressing 3 keys to let it run through the installation after flashing a corrupt motherboard BIOS. Yes, it takes familiarity with the software and hardware, but it's by no means a feat that requires a special skillset.
Granted, few people have JTAG stuff handy, so $50 is definitely worth it if you've hosed your device, but don't make it sound like he's sweating and coding the bootloader by hand, strenuously manipulating micro tools to disassemble the tablet and flipping DIP switches to restore the bootloader. You spend 5 minutes taking apart the tablet, you attach the JTAG cable, run the supplied software on your computer, and sit there recording the screen with your video recorder while the progressbar moves from 0 to 100.
Again, it's worth $50 simply because not everyone and their mother has JTAG hardware sitting around, but by no means is it hard. It's the same reason I can get away with charging $100 to clean viruses off of a computer. People either don't have the tools or don't know how to use them. That being said, I don't know a damn thing about using JTAG to restore a corrupt bootloader, nor do I have the right hardware, so I'd pay $50 if I were ever in the situation.
Edit: And yes, $100 for a virus clean is a lot, but people generally change their mind when I explain to them why they got viruses, as well as installing proper antivirus software and then instructing them on how to avoid infection in the future. I rarely get repeat business from the same customer but I get A LOT of referrals ;p They're happy paying that much when the person educates them instead of cleaning, not installing/explaining, then having to bring the computer in again two weeks later for another wallet-gouge, which most other computer 'repair people' gladly do over and over.
Everything in this world is rinse and repeat... The money comes from time spent learning to use the hardware properly, micro soldering skills (which isn't easy, no matter who you are), confidence enough to offer it as a service, not to mention the couple hundred bucks for the jtag software and hardware.
Now, the fact that if you have your device in a bricked state you likely voided the warranty, it's a 600 dollar brick if your samsung tech recognized it... 50 bucks is a steal to not deal with samsung anyway.
Try to be less pompous next time oh savoir of the hundred bone virus... Your poop stinks too, promise.
Sent from my "better than an iPad" tab running Overcome Hermes.
LycaonX said:
It's actually not that much more difficult than popping an OS install CD into a hosed computer and pressing 3 keys to let it run through the installation after flashing a corrupt motherboard BIOS. Yes, it takes familiarity with the software and hardware, but it's by no means a feat that requires a special skillset.
Granted, few people have JTAG stuff handy, so $50 is definitely worth it if you've hosed your device, but don't make it sound like he's sweating and coding the bootloader by hand, strenuously manipulating micro tools to disassemble the tablet and flipping DIP switches to restore the bootloader. You spend 5 minutes taking apart the tablet, you attach the JTAG cable, run the supplied software on your computer, and sit there recording the screen with your video recorder while the progressbar moves from 0 to 100.
Again, it's worth $50 simply because not everyone and their mother has JTAG hardware sitting around, but by no means is it hard. It's the same reason I can get away with charging $100 to clean viruses off of a computer. People either don't have the tools or don't know how to use them. That being said, I don't know a damn thing about using JTAG to restore a corrupt bootloader, nor do I have the right hardware, so I'd pay $50 if I were ever in the situation.
Edit: And yes, $100 for a virus clean is a lot, but people generally change their mind when I explain to them why they got viruses, as well as installing proper antivirus software and then instructing them on how to avoid infection in the future. I rarely get repeat business from the same customer but I get A LOT of referrals ;p They're happy paying that much when the person educates them instead of cleaning, not installing/explaining, then having to bring the computer in again two weeks later for another wallet-gouge, which most other computer 'repair people' gladly do over and over.
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Click to collapse
I've got to call you out on this one. Mis-connecting or shorting any wires will lead to a damaged PCB and an un-resurrectable TAB. I'm also a Systems Admin for a living so I understand where you are coming from. You must realize that I solder at levels of .1mm in spacing on the Captivate, Vibrant and Nexus S. Electrical engineers and technicians have first hand talked with me about the difficulty of doing this and is NOT something that anyone can do. You'd think twice when you burn up a phone or two valued at $500 a pop trying to JTAG them. There is more skill involved than you would think. Not to mention the liability when dis-assembling the device. JTAG software is decent but it's not fully automated. There are TCK frequencies, RTCK frequencies different PBL partition sizes, full dcc loader read/writes and the requirement of EXACT voltage from an external power supply that are needed in MANY cases. Plus, there is little to no support when fixing a device. This means that if you can't figure it out, nobody else is going to for you. I'm not trying to brag but yet point out that this isn't like plugging in your phone for an ODIN flash. I've taken hundreds of hours of time and 1000's of dollars to create what I feel is the most trusted JTAG authority online ANYWHERE. I greatly appreciate having the opportunity to help the community and enthusiasts in this community. If this was as easy as you are claiming, you could get JTAG hardware and a manual at Best Buy. I have to say you put it best when you said you don't know anything about JTAG... Ok end of rant I was just a bit bothered by your post.
Ok with that being said, thanks for the personal testimonies and compliments. I will be here whenever anyone needs JTAG assistance in the future or around the forums to help answer Q&A when it doesn't require JTAG. Here is a Nexus S promo to realize how tiny some of these things are
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecp8jKmm48k
i would love to learn more on how to do stuff like this if i had moneyz. the .1mm ext.
not just for android but to make my own ish.
thanks for the awsome videos.
Thanks for the link, hope I won't need it ;-)
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
I have this problem with my new GT-N7000:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1178964
In short, my phone is not flashable anymore, cannot even flash a bootloader. Everything is or at least seems to be written to the phone but after a reboot all is gone and everything is in its original state. Can't even delete fotos or other random files on my phone.
RMA request is filed but if they refuse I need some ground to argue with them to get it accepted.
sounds a lot like a memory controller failure. Had the same problem on my Desire S after mistakenly pulling battery out and reinserting it immediately, it fried the controller of the eMMC and afterwards it was damn near impossible to flash anything over it. It would work, but all would be gone upon the next reboot (even apps installed via the market or user settings), it was as if the device was frozen in time...
As it is related to a hardware fault (crappy memory chips), I'd ask for replacement anyway. If you're located in Europe or the USA there are laws that force manufacturers to honor warranty in case of a a design or hardware flaw, look it up on google to have some leverage on them.
You're probably affected by the "eMMC Brick Bug" that has been plaguing a large number of popular Android phones the last year. There are some fixes and partial solutions, but I recommend to send it back a get a new one, so that "they" understand they have a large problem! (Search on XDA!)
There's also a brick bug checking app in the market...
This one looks abit different. Brick bug is known from eMMC hanging when accessing any of the damaged blocks. Though this could be the second, different result of brick bug, slighty less serious.
Running (was) a stock rooted N7 v1 on 4.3. Bought a data recovery tool off of the play store to try and recover some photos I had deleted. At some point it rebooted into safe mode, my battery was running low and I shut it off to let it charge. Now it's dead in the water. Stuck in APX mode. I am asking if there is anyway to breathe life back into this tablet.
The tablet does nothing on the screen, period, no matter what you do. When plugged in to a computer it sometimes registers as an unknown device, sometimes APX. None of these get you anywhere. Toolkits on these forums won't recognize the device, installing the android development kit and drivers does nothing, executing commands from the command line is worthless because the device won't register. I do not have any "blobs" and have no clue at this point even what they are or what they could have done for me had I made them.
I've searched this forum and found bits and pieces here and there and wanted to start a thread dealing solely with devices stuck like this and what has or hasn't worked and get others input if warranty service was done and the state your tablet was in when you sent it in (locked/unlocked, rooted etc).
Anyone stuck here will have probably tried the same things as I have but here is is a minor rundown...
1) Every button combo press known to man for short, medium, and extended periods of time.
2) Charging with the Original charger/cable for 1 hour, then button presses then charging for 12 hours.
3) Same as above but with different aftermarket chargers at different amperages.
4) Uninstalling and deleting drivers. Trying different drivers. Getting the Android drivers etc.
5) Trying every toolkit on the forums to no avail because the device won't register.
6) Checking to make sure the battery cables are seated correctly.
7) Screaming and yelling at your new paperweight.
My hope here is that I've missed some important thread about recovery and someone can point me in the right direction. Failing that, if I should get a new mobo or try and send it in for warranty service in the state it's in.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Sent from my Rooted Frameworked SCH-I545 using xda app-developers app
I don't know what you tried before to revive your tablet and what the tool did to get you into this state, but generally APX mode can be left by pushing the power button *only* for about 10-20 sec, as long as there us enough power within your battery and the hardware / software is working / consistent.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
I don't think I've ever seen anyone in here describe a situation where they observed the tablet in bootloader mode without seeing *something* on the screen.
And as you found out through your reading, using "nvflash" on the N7 is only useful at this time for folks that made prior disaster recovery preparations. So, APX mode is of no use to you (at this date 12/2013).
So, until you see something happen on that screen, drivers on a PC are of no value to you anyway.
It is really unfortunate that the N7 doesn't have a physical charging indicator - that makes it difficult to distinguish between a tablet which is truly borked vs. one that refuses to boot simply because the battery isn't charged.
Holding down a specific button combo (iirc Pwr+VolUp) during an attempt to get "something, anything" to happen will put the tab into APX mode, so it isn't particularly diagnostic that you have observed APX mode once or twice.
Really about the only way to know if the battery in a non-responsive N7 is charged or not is to put it in another tablet or measure the open-circuit voltage. (About 4.15v fully charged & about 3.5v discharged)
The reason that I mention this is that there have been a few reports from users in similar straits as you that report something like "I don't know what happened, but I tried it a few days later and all of a sudden the tablet booted up". Almost every one of those reports involved mentions of low battery conditions, just as your narrative does.
I don't know what file recovery program you used, but I suspect that is a red herring . It might have to have root privileges in order to read raw partitions, and might even want the tablet in safe mode to minimize write activity by *other apps* while it does it's forensics, but it certainly isn't going to recover files by writing in raw mode on a mounted, live filesystem - it would do all it's writing through normal kernel syscalls. That's the long way of saying that a low battery is more likely to be the original source of your troubles.
So what to do now? I think the first order of business is to figure out if your battery is charged or failing to take a charge. If it really is well charged, then a warranty return is probably in your future.
If you can't find a second N7 or a voltmeter, then you could try just leaving it on the charger for a couple of days... but that really is just a "grope about in the dark, wing & prayer" kind of strategy.
good luck
Button sequences & USB Identifiers (VID/PID pairs):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2133986
You are in the same situation I was in - nothing shows up on screen. I got APX drivers to finally install (had to search all over the internet to find them) and that STILL didn't help. I was never able to get it to come back. Nothing ever showed up on the screen.
No combination of button presses helped. I finally gave up and, since my N7 was still under warranty, I RMA'd it back to ASUS. It took about 3 weeks, but I got it back with a new motherboard installed on it.
It was borked and your's sounds the same way as mine. Just either register your N7 on the ASUS website and RMA it that way, or call it in over the phone and RMA it that way. Hopefully, you still have the box your N7 came in because you'll need the serial number.
Others have stated you can get it by opening the back, but that will void your warranty. I do believe you MUST have the serial number, so find the box and get it from there.
Also, you'll definitely lose everything that was there, especially if they replace the motherboard. So hopefully, you backed it up. I backed mine up just before it got borked, so I was lucky.
Good luck!
I am wary of trying to do the battery swap. I went and bought a new version after it crashed but I would be voiding both warranties to try the battery swap.
I do have the serial number if I want to try and get service.
I have done some reading about "deep discharge" battery issues and I suspect this may be a part if it but I have tried leaving it plugged in for days and nada.
I don't know if there is a way to "shock" or jump start the charging process and I am going to put the multimeter on it tomorrow and see what I get.
Thanks for everyone's input. I will keep you up to date.
Sent from my Rooted Frameworked Verizon Galaxy S4 on MJ7 using the XDA App.
I wanted to start a thread to solve some minor headaches regarding NuVision tablets. Specifically the TM800W560L, but may include others.
The manufacture is TMAX, and the brand is NuVision. Some of you have these. I picked up the 560 at the Microsoft store, a couple of days before Christmas, 2016. I ghosted the factory image as backup, and wiped clean to start from scratch, using Windows 10 Pro.
Let's say my hack started at the Microsoft Store, social engineering a sale of $25 for the unit. Yes you can get these for free, if you were buying a Windows Surface, but why would you want this if you have a Surface? It's such a terrible device to support for the sod who got one...
This unit is the most similar to the HP Stream 7, MSRP $79. I have a couple of these as well. I a bit miffed that, although the CPU is 64-bit, we can only use 32-bit Windows. This produces some problems as only 64-bit drivers are readily supported via Windows Update. I have made use of some of these drivers for the 560 to solve some problems.
Lets get down to the issues at hand:
1. The Camera drivers.
OV2680 ( OVTi2680 Ven_OVTi&Dev_2680 )
OV5648 ( INT5648 Ven_INT&Dev_5648 )
Problem: For every Windows Feature Upgrade, the drivers are wiped out and replaced with some non-functional version. Frankly, I don't think I have been able to get the cameras to work at all. At least, not by using the Windows 10 Camera App. I pulled a litany of drivers from various sources and I can get them to at least seem okay, as far as the device manager is concerned, but not much beyond that.
2. Intel Chip Set drivers.
Problem: Much like the camera drivers, for every Windows Feature Upgrade, the chipset drivers are updated as well, but then the supplied drivers are non-functional. This results in the lost of touch and gravity sensors, among other functions. This requires the use of a USB OTG adaptor, (Yes you can have USB and power at the same time!) and reinstallation of the original chipset drivers.
All in all I get the sense this is abandoned technology, and I feel that no-one particularly cares. In addition, I am a little bored with this thing, and I would like to see if I can make it better.
If anyone has questions or advice, I am open minded, but it should be sincere.
Thanks,
I picked the TM800W610L. I will see if the camera drivers and chipset drivers from this model will work for the 560. However NuVision has reduced their driver set to bare bones. In some respects this is admirable, but in my case, it leaves little hope that there's any 32bit support.
For the uninitiated, the 560, although has a 64bit CPU, the BIOS only boots 32bit Windows. This is the same situation on the same CPU, for the HP Stream 7, which I am also leveraging for support.
I have been able to dig around a little bit, regarding the BIOS firmware, for both models. Geekbench is a nice repository of data, for a shallow dive.
This is what I have, for known BIOS revisions:
I have the installer for version H, supporting the 610.
I can backup version R, installed on my 560.
If anyone is interested in an "update" from an older version, it would be interesting to get a backup of what you currently have in exchange for an update.
TMAX TM800W610L
JK-BI-8-HLK80CR100-C34A-101-F-LCD3 08/01/2016
JK-BI-8-HLK80CR100-C34A-101-H-LCD2 03/02/2017
TMAX TM800W560L
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-G
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-H
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-L
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-O
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-P
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-Q
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-R 08/25/2016
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-T
I just picked one of these up myself (the TM800W560L) and am working on getting it upgraded to Pro (and put on the Insider preview program, because I like my devices consistent) at the moment. I was a little sad to see that these machines have 32-bit UEFI effectively making the 64-bit enhancements useless and limiting software support to 32-bit only (that immediately threw out my plans for using WSL/Ubuntu on the thing since Windows Subsystem for Linux is a 64-bit only feature), but after a couple hours with this tablet, I'm really enjoying it. It took about 4 hours to install the latest batch of updates, but unlike your own experiences, all my drivers still worked after the upgrade from 1511 to 1709 (Build 16299).
I did see some very negative reviews for the product on Amazon, mostly about customer support, so I knew what I was getting into when I ordered it.
EDIT: My gripes about the device were apparently for a defective device. Got a new one after the note below caused a brick and have had a much better time with it.
Important! For my first real contribution to this thread, I wanted to give a warning, don't mess with the BIOS options if you can help it on these devices. I simply changed the "Boot to State when Power is resumed" from G0 to S5 and the tablet no longer powers on. It's charging, but nothing is happening from the buttons. So I guess it's to the exchange with this one.. Learned for the next one though :/ [Update: Turns out that it caused an actual brick, lesson learned, don't mess with the Power Management firmware settings! There's no good way back from a brick caused by UEFI firmware settings, you apparently have to reflash the BIOS using an SPI programmer to fix those. These manufacturers really should be designing their firmware better (and not using 64-bit firmware on a 64-bit processor, shame on them for that travesty!)]
Edit 2: I ran into an actual issue that I can reproduce pretty frequently. With the native Windows auto-rotation on, going from Landscape to Portrait (or vice-versa) leaves the touchscreen in this weird state where it's still looking for touch input from the previous orientation. Not sure if this is a Windows 10 version 1709 build 17043+ bug, but it appears to be, as the issue does not happen if I turn rotation lock on and manually change orientation. It's an interesting issue to say the least. [It appears after browsing the feedback hub that this is indeed a Windows 10 Insider bug, if you are affected by this, turn off auto-rotation and then manually rotate the screen using Settings, the touch input works as expected then.]
Hi, thanks for the great info! I'm trying to start a little robot makerspace and wanted to mount these little cheap tablets on mobile robots. The only issue appears to be not being able to use USB devices while supplying external power to the device. It sounded like you mentioned this is somehow possible, could you elaborate on that?
Thanks!
Jesse
ShadowEO said:
Edit 2: I ran into an actual issue that I can reproduce pretty frequently. With the native Windows auto-rotation on, going from Landscape to Portrait (or vice-versa) leaves the touchscreen in this weird state where it's still looking for touch input from the previous orientation. Not sure if this is a Windows 10 version 1709 build 17043+ bug, but it appears to be, as the issue does not happen if I turn rotation lock on and manually change orientation. It's an interesting issue to say the least. [It appears after browsing the feedback hub that this is indeed a Windows 10 Insider bug, if you are affected by this, turn off auto-rotation and then manually rotate the screen using Settings, the touch input works as expected then.]
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Click to collapse
I can confirm the strange rotation behavior, on the 610L. I got out of it by hooking up an OTG cable, keyboard and mouse.
Boot up and log in, rotate to landscape and reboot, not messing with the touch screen. After the reboot, the touch screen worked in landscape, and seems to be in sync again.
I installed 17083, that was a chore, and all seems well. However I am getting app crashes, which I think is an OS issue. (currency ran sfc /scannow - no probs. And dism /online /cleanup-image /startcomponentcleanup /resetbase) Next is to run chkdsk and reboot... I have no real hope this will take care of things until the next fast build, which could be in a week or two at the moment.
To get the recent build installed, I had to run a custom script, to clean up all the known temp and softwaredistribution/downloads folder. Additionally I removed the upgrade assistant and one drive. Then ran the Windows Update trouble shooter, and ran (compact /compactos:alwasy) and set NTFS compression on the C drive, ignoring all errors. I was able to get 16GB free, and finally able to install the latest Fast Insider's Build.
Some of these things are not recommended, however extreme conditions require extreme measures... 32GB MMC Crive is a bit restricted.
jjurban55 said:
Hi, thanks for the great info! I'm trying to start a little robot makerspace and wanted to mount these little cheap tablets on mobile robots. The only issue appears to be not being able to use USB devices while supplying external power to the device. It sounded like you mentioned this is somehow possible, could you elaborate on that?
Thanks!
Jesse
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Click to collapse
I am having mixed results here. I plainly am not getting good results with an OTG/HUB combo with three power settings. I am not getting power and USB/date to the micro USB port, as the same time. It's either/or.
610L - Nope, one or the other. I originally thought it was possible, but it's not.
560L - Nope, just confirmed, same result as the 610L - will charge in power+data mode, while completely off.
I have confirmed as well, 17063 build, on both the 610L and the 560L, has this strange screen rotation, mouse, touch screen orientation lock thing. That is, the screens rotate, but the touch alignment does not. The mouse pointer only moves in the same space as if it was prorate mode. Touch is fully prorate mode, while the screen rotates to landscape. Then got the BSOD (green screen)... Rebooting while in landscape mode, (requires a mouse), does fix the issue. Touch alignment comes back with screen rotation. (works on both models)
I see a future problem which I think we will have to address on our own. No help from TMax/NuVision I suspect.
When the microcode is finalized by Intel, we will have to come up with a solution to update the code, to protect against Meltdown and Spectre.
I have doen this before, prior to Compaq merger, on the HP VLi8 and VL400. But I don't know if it's possible to inject new microcode on the TMax firmware/bios update.
As you can see above, I have listed a number of firmware for our tablets, I am hoping we can work with some recent purchasers and see if there's an arrangement, where we could come to trade.
The USB OTG ACA support is weird. There are times it does work and times it does not. I have two USB OTG hubs that support supplying the tablet power while USB OTG is in use. With one hub, this works fine; with the other though, it will either not charge, or it will claim to be charging, but I assume not receiving enough power on the tablet side to charge the tablet enough while it's in use. It does however work, I have used it multiple times already with my 560L.
As for storage space, yes, I recommend running
Code:
compact /compactos:always
after each update. You can also get away with storing your user profile on the MicroSD card (and applications, thus rendering the internal storage an OS only drive)
As for my previous complaint about screen rotation, this disappeared after the upgrade to 17083. It was confirmed to be a problem with the Desktop Window Manager service by Microsoft and even had a fix posted to the Feedback Hub entry for the issue.
@CraveTech It may indeed be possible to modify our firmware, but the risk of doing so may outweigh the benefits. Windows already has user-mode mitigation of Spectre and Meltdown that isn't dependent on the microcode to be installed. We also have to worry about the possibility of bricking the devices without recovery (at least in my case, as I don't have access to an SPI programmer, nor do I feel comfortable cracking this thing open) seeing as a single option change in the BIOS effectively bricked the device.
anyone try to unrar the current image from nuvision for model w610L
test the archive and i get errors.
same with drivers.
tried newest unrar and also older version.
wtf??
ShadowEO said:
The USB OTG ACA support is weird. There are times it does work and times it does not. I have two USB OTG hubs that support supplying the tablet power while USB OTG is in use. With one hub, this works fine; with the other though, it will either not charge, or it will claim to be charging, but I assume not receiving enough power on the tablet side to charge the tablet enough while it's in use. It does however work, I have used it multiple times already with my 560L.
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What is the model of the one that works for you?
I just got a TM800W610L the other day and have been looking for one that works with this tablet.
Thanks
netstat_EVO said:
What is the model of the one that works for you?
I just got a TM800W610L the other day and have been looking for one that works with this tablet.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the exact hub I had the best experience on so far (I am still buying and trying hubs) was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It charged when it said it was charging and had no qualms with the other devices. There's a Cerrxian branded 4-port rectangular hub which doesn't seem to work well at all for my devices. Even when the Cerrxian says the system is charging and the system shows it, it still dies. I assume that it just isn't supplying enough power to the VBUS :/
ShadowEO said:
the exact hub I had the best experience on so far (I am still buying and trying hubs) was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It charged when it said it was charging and had no qualms with the other devices. There's a Cerrxian branded 4-port rectangular hub which doesn't seem to work well at all for my devices. Even when the Cerrxian says the system is charging and the system shows it, it still dies. I assume that it just isn't supplying enough power to the VBUS :/
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Click to collapse
Interesting. I had seen that one on Amazon and quickly glossed over it since it had a switch for OTG/Charge, so I assumed it couldn't do both simultaneously. At $7 I'd say it's a cheap enough experiment though. Thanks for the info.
netstat_EVO said:
Interesting. I had seen that one on Amazon and quickly glossed over it since it had a switch for OTG/Charge, so I assumed it couldn't do both simultaneously. At $7 I'd say it's a cheap enough experiment though. Thanks for the info.
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Ya I was surprised too, but it worked with my Nexus 7 and LG G2 with their ACA enabled kernels. I had to fidget with the switch a little before charging started, but I was able to confirm in Ubuntu Touch on the Nexus 7 that it still saw the USB devices via lsusb. I seem to have lost that exact hub within the past week or so, but I had used it last month to charge the tablet while reinstalling Windows from my flash drive with a keyboard and mouse attached. I can't testify that it actually charged the device since I hadn't been able to see percentages (being in Windows setup and all), but the charging indicator was on, the screen was as bright as Windows normally makes it when charging, and it didn't die while the device was at ~15% battery before starting the installation. The Cerrxian hub couldn't do that and the tablet died while attempting installation, So I assume it was charging the tablet, or at least provided enough power to keep the device's battery stable.
I also just bought another 3-port hub from Acasis, another Chinese company making these cheap devices, but so far, I have yet to get that hub to charge the device either. So it seems that this is a very specific type of configuration inside the adapter, but the device does support OTG+Charge.
That said, Windows itself (at least the desktop versions) does not actually support this feature according to Microsoft's USB driver documentation. That it works at all seems to be a bug in the USB driver, or perhaps the adapters are doing something strange to trick the device into pulling down it's own VBUS and using the external one, possibly independently from the OS (Firmware USB drivers maybe?).
Does anyone have screenshot of the BIOS main menu and the save and exit screen? I'm trying reset to the bios. I was messing MIPI and eDP. I thought eDP was meant for external display port.
lol I fixed it. I gamble on different version of this tablet. I press F3 and Left arrow key for yes and enter. Then I press F4 and Left arrow key for yes to save and restart.
snkchaos said:
Does anyone have screenshot of the BIOS main menu and the save and exit screen? I'm trying reset to the bios. I was messing MIPI and eDP. I thought eDP was meant for external display port.
lol I fixed it. I gamble on different version of this tablet. I press F3 and Left arrow key for yes and enter. Then I press F4 and Left arrow key for yes to save and restart.
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Click to collapse
Glad to see that you fixed it. I would recommend against modifying the firmware settings if you can avoid it, especially any power management settings as changing one of those can completely brick the tablet leaving you unable to even enter the firmware.
EDIT 2/27: I came across my other OTG hubs and have some bad news, it appears that the OTG+Charge works on the 560L, but doesn't on the 610L. Perhaps NuVision changed USB chipset revisions between models?
Just picked up the 610L last week for $66 as a small option to use a program I need mobile. Updated to 1709 after a struggle (why Microsoft, why?).
Ran great for a week and now it’s starting to freeze and BSOD with mainly “Clock Watchdog Timeout”.
Not really getting any indication of why, I know I can run a log dump, but I often can’t get it to stay on log enough. It will even hang and crash when trying to wipe/revert.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Been a long time since I was active around here
update:
Was able to locate the stock ISO files and made a bootable usb. It’s currently restoring back to OEM status.
The installer is another language, but it’s working.
I think I won’t be install updates until I finish this project I have to do.
Another update:
Getting an intel framework and thermal error in the logs, which I notice while the device gets hot while charging and operating. If I let things be without charging it stays cooler.
I’ve only had had one BSOD and it was for System Service Exception but the logs don’t show much.
I let things update overnight with it plugged in and the screen off and it was still operating this morning.
Not sure if this is a driver issue or not. Seems that way.
Been trying to restore this but get an hour into the nuvision software and it times out. Anyone have an idea how to get this back to stock?
Following on from another thread I posted about problems after updating to Android 8.0.
I have now discovered that I cannot actually connect my device to any PC / laptop.
When I do, it either doesn't register as being connected, on either the laptop nor the S8 (doesn't charge) or I get a pop up telling me its slow charging and I do not see it within Windows.
This means I cannot transfer files from device to device nor run any adb commands, which, oddly, id like too.
Has anyone else seen this?
Ive tried many things, including:
reboot S8
clear caches on S8
tried different USB cables
tried different usb ports
tried a different windows machine
changed settings in S8 developer options (set to MTP transfer)
update windows drivers
uninstall and re-install Samsung drivers on windows machine
Nothing seems to work anymore.
Occasionally if I plug it into my Windows machine, Windows gives me some sort of error message about the device not working correctly and so cannot be used?
Any help would be much much appreciated, as my device is no bordering on being completely useless.
And the Samsung customer / tech support is literally THE worst I have ever experienced.
Thanks
Have you tried Minimal ABD & Fastboot:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
Norup58 said:
Have you tried Minimal ABD & Fastboot:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.
But it doesn't help me really. As I can not get windows to even see my device, not does my S8 acknowledge that it's plugged into my laptop.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
and today I woke up to a moisture detected notification...so cannot cable charge at all now.
My S8 has never even been close to liquid of any kind, always kept in a fitbag sleeve case, inside my pocket.
F**k this phone and F**k Samsung and their crappy Android update.
A crazy expensive device that is now rendered pretty much useless due to their last update
to summarize, following the Oreo update:
- cannot cable charge at all now
- previously could only slow charge via cable, fast charge would not work
- cannot connect S8 to any other PC / laptop to transfer files
- battery life is absolute garbage - need to charge 2 times a day at least
- WiFi is laggy, slow and drops connection
- Some of my Cast devices (Google Home and Chromecast) are not seen by the S8 - have to disconnect and reconnect to Wifi several times
- pretty sure the phone is randomly rebooting (every so often I'm asked for my PIN rather than biometrics)
Last update 10.05.18 - G950FXXU1CRD7
Im sooooo glad I have 1.5 years left on my contract with this phone....
Valiceemo said:
and today I woke up to a moisture detected notification...so cannot cable charge at all now.
My S8 has never even been close to liquid of any kind, always kept in a fitbag sleeve case, inside my pocket.
F**k this phone and F**k Samsung and their crappy Android update.
A crazy expensive device that is now rendered pretty much useless due to their last update
to summarize, following the Oreo update:
- cannot cable charge at all now
- previously could only slow charge via cable, fast charge would not work
- cannot connect S8 to any other PC / laptop to transfer files
- battery life is absolute garbage - need to charge 2 times a day at least
- WiFi is laggy, slow and drops connection
- Some of my Cast devices (Google Home and Chromecast) are not seen by the S8 - have to disconnect and reconnect to Wifi several times
- pretty sure the phone is randomly rebooting (every so often I'm asked for my PIN rather than biometrics)
Last update 10.05.18 - G950FXXU1CRD7
Im sooooo glad I have 1.5 years left on my contract with this phone....
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Click to collapse
I have the same issue, it does not connect to my pc nor does the usb seetings notification show up in my phone...were you able to fix it?
javiersrrz said:
I have the same issue, it does not connect to my pc nor does the usb seetings notification show up in my phone...were you able to fix it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope!
Took it into my providers (EE in the UK) store, and they were about as useful as a chocolate fireguard..."have you tried turning it of and on again innit"....
after lengthy discussions, in which I explained more than they did, it has been sent for repair.
Could take up to 14 days, depending on the fault.
From what I can gather by Google fu, the moisture alert is a common fault, and ive come to the conclusion that Samsung f**ked up the Oreo update / roll out, but are burying their heads and forcing the carrier providers to take the brunt of the complaints from the end user.
Bad form Samsung, BAD FORM
I think this S8 will be my last Samsung device. Ever.
Im have the same problem today i realized i cannot connect to pc through usb and i cant not fast charge only slow charge when i connect it to usb port it starts charging but cant transfer files or flash another firmware to try to solve the problem?
so did they find the problem?
Valiceemo said:
nope!
Took it into my providers (EE in the UK) store, and they were about as useful as a chocolate fireguard..."have you tried turning it of and on again innit"....
after lengthy discussions, in which I explained more than they did, it has been sent for repair.
Could take up to 14 days, depending on the fault.
From what I can gather by Google fu, the moisture alert is a common fault, and ive come to the conclusion that Samsung f**ked up the Oreo update / roll out, but are burying their heads and forcing the carrier providers to take the brunt of the complaints from the end user.
Bad form Samsung, BAD FORM
I think this S8 will be my last Samsung device. Ever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
post8 said:
so did they find the problem?
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Click to collapse
They fixed it. But no info as to exactly what the problem was, just that "an internal component was replaced"
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
How about the USB Debugging of your S8, after upgrade to Andorid 8.0, the USB Debugging may be disabled.