Hi all,
I bought the Joying JY-FO128N4PX5S and since installed the odometer light on my dash stays lit all the time. I removed the radio for about 2 weeks while it was returned for being faulty and the odometer turned off as normal. When the replacement radio was installed the odometer light issue has returned.
Right so after some playing around the Canbus was always hot so this is the cause, i removed the canbus and the light goes out.
Anyone know how to fix as its draining the battery when the car is left for a few days.
Hi,
I have the JY-FO127N4PX5S mounted on a Focus RS MK2 (pretty similar to your installation) and I also had a battery drain due to a wrong cable connection (my unit was delivered without the mounting instructions).
When the head unit is used with the canbus box, you need to unplug the ACC wire.
I suspect this is your case.
Arrakis75 said:
Hi,
I have the JY-FO127N4PX5S mounted on a Focus RS MK2 (pretty similar to your installation) and I also had a battery drain due to a wrong cable connection (my unit was delivered without the mounting instructions).
When the head unit is used with the canbus box, you need to unplug the ACC wire.
I suspect this is your case.
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Click to collapse
Hi mate, Yep ACC wire is disconnected.
So with Canbus connected and ACC disconnected the dash light stays lit
With ACC only connected same
With ACC and Canbus connected the dash light goes out for 5-10 mins then comes back on.
Joying have just washed their hands of me as they have no clue.
Related
Hello all. Thank you for your time in hearing me out.
i had a guy at work wire up my radio to my 2009 ford focus and now my battery keeps dying. I shall let you know of everything that we did so we can find a fix.
to start my illumination lights do not light up on the head unit.
i had to wire a red and yellow wire together kinda funky to get this thing to start up for the first time.
what other info do you need to help diag?
It been a while since ive wired a radio in a car but the red and yellow wires are usually permanent live (constant battery connection) and ignition live (only live when ignition is on) if the battery is dying you need to look into wireing these differently, so the radio isnt constantly connected to the battery and draining it.
P. S car batterys are diffrent from a standard battery, if it has gone flat more than 3 times it ideally needs replacing.
I agree. If the wiring setup is good, then the battery is toast.
Hi, I have a brand new Xtrons unit that won't stay on for more than a few seconds. It wont get past the first boot screen.
Do I have a dead unit, or do these symptoms suggest any other issues?
I've tested it in the car and on a bench with a PSU. The Xtrons model I have doesn't need a canbus input.
The only wires I have connected are 12v, 12v switched and neutral.
On the bench I am using a PC PSU, using a wire to short the mobo connector as required to get the PSU to turn on without using a motherboard.
I have checked with a multimeter and 12v is supplied at start up.
When the unit dies after a few seconds, the fan on the PSU turns off. If I unplug the mobo wire I am using to get the PSU to work without a mobo, and then put it back in, the PSU turns back on, the head unit turns on for two seconds, and then the cycle is repeated with the head unit shutting off and the PSU fan going off.
Thanks for reading this and for any suggestions
Hi,
I have the following problem, my pumpkin radio seems to drain power even when turned of.
When I remove the key from the ignition the radio shuts down like normal and after around 30 seconds it shuts down completely (or so I hope since it set this way) and it need to do a full boot up again in the next start.
But my battery still got drained to the degree that the car won't turn on. First time I just brought a new battery since I thought the battery was bad (around 6 years old). But now it happened again. What could be the issue?
yuukiw said:
Hi,
I have the following problem, my pumpkin radio seems to drain power even when turned of.
When I remove the key from the ignition the radio shuts down like normal and after around 30 seconds it shuts down completely (or so I hope since it set this way) and it need to do a full boot up again in the next start.
But my battery still got drained to the degree that the car won't turn on. First time I just brought a new battery since I thought the battery was bad (around 6 years old). But now it happened again. What could be the issue?
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Click to collapse
How have you ascertained the head unit to be the cause and what is the measured current consumption of the head unit when the key is off?
marchnz said:
How have you ascertained the head unit to be the cause and what is the measured current consumption of the head unit when the key is off?
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Not yet ascertained that it is the hu just the most likely cause so far since it only really started after installing the hu and no obvious over causes (checked light in the trunk and gloves box.
Will take measurements tomorrow once I get my hands on a amp.
The light machine seems to work since the built in volt meter of the hu (if its somewhat accurat) shows 14.2 to 14.4v
Which car do you use and which construction year?
rigattoni said:
Which car do you use and which construction year?
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Subaru impreza 1.5r gg 2006.
Are you sure that the ACC cable and the Ignition cable are correct connected?
The unit will not shut down if both cable are reversed.
You should check which cable has still +12V if the ignition key is in position 0.
rigattoni said:
Are you sure that the ACC cable and the Ignition cable are correct connected?
The unit will not shut down if both cable are reversed.
You should check which cable has still +12V if the ignition key is in position 0.
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Click to collapse
Will check tomorrow but the device shows shutdown once the key is removed.
Hi all,
So I got a secondhand Topnavi for the Mini Cooper (at least I think it's a Topnavi, there's no real markings on it). It looks exactly like this one, although running on Android 7 with a quadcore, so it's an older model.
https://www.amazon.ca/TOPNAVI-Android-7-1-Cooper-Clubman/dp/B07GNGDTNS?th=1
I'm having a problem where the unit won't power on in ACC mode, and it won't stay in sleep mode (regardless of what I set in the "Shutdown delay in ACC mode" setting) - whenever I turn off ignition, it does a full shutdown. So in order to play with it, I have to keep ignition on, which is obviously not ideal.
Would anyone have any suggestions on what I should look into? I didn't build the harness - the unit came with one for the Mini, so I would imagine the right wiring is already in place. There are some unconnected wires like P.Conn, DVR, etc., but I am guessing those go unused.
Any help welcome!
The harness will have 2 live wires, switched and permanent which on mine are red and yellow. I fixed this exact problem by switching these wires over.
Thanks. When you say switch them over - to what?
[edit] ohh reread what you said - you mean switch their positions between each other, right?
Here’s my harness btw. I can't seem to find any Mini R56 pinout diagrams, to figure this out...
Hmm. I just went through the harness on the Mini side, and I don't seem to have a switched 12V wire on it. There's one that is 12V constant, but there is no wire that goes live with ignition and dead with no ignition. I might have to look for another wire to feed into the Topnavi?...
I have gone through a recent saga of getting stuck, pulling out batteries, and finally replacing my vehicle battery at quite a hefty cost and a bunch of grief. Flat battery again, and on finally checking with my multimeter I see immediately that I'm drawing a continual 0.8 A load. Pulling the head unit fuse out immediately drops it to about 0.14A. Massive difference!
Is my head unit dodgy? I really don't want to have to install a switch if I can help it.
Argh
Maybe wrong wiring of ignition and battery. 0.8A load is when its on, 0.0A off
0.14A isnt good anyway... 3.36Ah per day. 2-3 weeks and your battery may be drained completely.
Does your head unit work fine? I mean goes sleep after turning ignition off? Do you have enabled quick boot in Android setup?
What about powering up an external amplifier? Or even FM antenna amplifier?
wotii098 said:
0.14A isnt good anyway... 3.36Ah per day. 2-3 weeks and your battery may be drained completely.
Does your head unit work fine? I mean goes sleep after turning ignition off? Do you have enabled quick boot in Android setup?
What about powering up an external amplifier? Or even FM antenna amplifier?
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Wasn't sure I'd get any suggestions, thanks.
I'm a step closer possibly in finding out what's going on. I have stripped everything out of the unit (harness, usb, aerial, GPS) and when I put a multimeter between the constant input wire and the constant source (wire to my fuse box) that 0.50A load is right there.
I'm going to try connecting the constant to a separate 12v source from a spare car battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A. I doubt any difference but I'm getting desperate.
Yes it goes to sleep but the draw is still there even though nothing is obviously powered.
invertgoat said:
Wasn't sure I'd get any suggestions, thanks.
I'm a step closer possibly in finding out what's going on. I have stripped everything out of the unit (harness, usb, aerial, GPS) and when I put a multimeter between the constant input wire and the constant source (wire to my fuse box) that 0.50A load is right there.
I'm going to try connecting the constant to a separate 12v source from a spare car battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A. I doubt any difference but I'm getting desperate.
Yes it goes to sleep but the draw is still there even though nothing is obviously powered.
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Click to collapse
Does your car has a CAN bus? And it is by coincident a VAG (audi/seat/skoda/vw)? It could very well be that the constant 12V input (BAT) and the ignition switched input (ACC) are both constant. In that case only your screen switches off but the amp keeps being powered on and that one draws the power.
Some car brands that do have a CAN bus also have a CANbus enabled radio unit. The radio gets a CAN bus signal to completely switch off. These Chinese units don't understand that.
My Skoda has that as well and I had to connect a separate wire to make my unit switch off, instead of using the harness ignition switched ACC wire.
surfer63 said:
Does your car has a CAN bus? And it is by coincident a VAG (audi/seat/skoda/vw)? It could very well be that the constant 12V input (BAT) and the ignition switched input (ACC) are both constant. In that case only your screen switches off but the amp keeps being powered on and that one draws the power.
Some car brands that do have a CAN bus also have a CANbus enabled radio unit. The radio gets a CAN bus signal to completely switch off. These Chinese units don't understand that.
My Skoda has that as well and I had to connect a separate wire to make my unit switch off, instead of using the harness ignition switched ACC wire.
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It's a 2012 Nissan NV200 unfortunately. Whether it has a canbus I'm not sure but I presume so? I tested what I believe is the ACC with a multimeter and I get a reading when the key is turned, but no when it's out so I presume that it's correct. Whereas, I get a reading on the BAT irrespective of the vehicle being on or off. So I'm fairly sure that's the BAT input I need?
The bit that confuses me is why the unit is always drawing 0.5 a through the BAT input. I'll try wiring the BAT input directly to a spare battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A
Anything I'm missing?
invertgoat said:
It's a 2012 Nissan NV200 unfortunately. Whether it has a canbus I'm not sure but I presume so? I tested what I believe is the ACC with a multimeter and I get a reading when the key is turned, but no when it's out so I presume that it's correct. Whereas, I get a reading on the BAT irrespective of the vehicle being on or off. So I'm fairly sure that's the BAT input I need?
The bit that confuses me is why the unit is always drawing 0.5 a through the BAT input. I'll try wiring the BAT input directly to a spare battery tomorrow and see if it still draws 0.5A
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If I search for "canbus nissan nv200" I immediately find systems as of 2015 models. I have no idea for your model.
It looks indeed like the BAT and ACC lines of your car are correct.
It seems to me that the harness connected to your unit is not correct.
I think the BAT line of your car connects to the ACC line of your harness/unit, and that the ACC line of your car connects to the BAT line of your harness/unit.
To me that could be the only reason why your unit still draws 0.5A over the BAT line when the ignition is off. A unit in real sleep mode should draw 10~40 mA, not 500~800 mA.
Maybe you could try cross-connecting the wires and see if it functions then. We have also seen that in the past with other units where the harness ACC and BAT wire were incorrectly connected.
Edit: Note that most units take 2-10 minutes before going into deep sleep. In some units this switch off time is even an adjustable setting.