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Just got a new motheboard which has high output USB charging for iPhones, pads etc.
Can this work on N1 ?
http://gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
edit: driver link is at the bottom for all the hackers. Hopefully its just changing string from apple to android hehe
kazprotos said:
Just got a new motheboard which has high output USB charging for iPhones, pads etc.
Can this work on N1 ?
http://gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
edit: driver link is at the bottom for all the hackers. Hopefully its just changing string from apple to android hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.
Dear lord what a crappy reply. Stick to disney mate.
It should, it basically just converts the USB port from .5 amps to 1 amp, like a wall charger.
elkyur said:
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF??? May want to lay off the halucinogenics
elkyur said:
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol I seriously hope this is a joke!
I agree with JCopernicus, it should definitely work.
I installed the software in the first post but it still charges very slow compared to wall outlet
Slightly OT, but I've got a USB adapter that plugs into the wall that came with my iphone and when I plug the N1 USB cable into this to charge the N1, it still charges very slowly compared to using the proper wall adapter, why is this? Does this iphone adapter restrict the voltage or something?
Generally, "charger detected" is a circuit that has USB data pins shorted together. So when the phone's USB device probes the lines and detects them shorted, it knows it's connected to a power supply.
But since USB max current spec is 500mA, the current draw is restricted - either by the phone or by the supply.
There might be some other connectivity trick that allows the phone to know it can draw x2 current from the socket and won't damage anything. Most phones probably don't limit the current draw and count on the board to do it. Some boards don't limit the current output, or limit it higher. And the fast chargers provide pulsing voltage - which isn't like USB.
So for the board to be able to charge the device, it needs to detect a device that can use pulsing voltage, and enable such voltage on the socket. It doesn't detect Nexus as such a device, I believe, and that's why the charging is slow.
Faster charging with USB
Building on Jack_R1's response, I believe that the phone is limiting the charge rate. You can make the phone "realize" it is connected to a charger rather than a data connection by shorting the 2 middle USB pins together. I have done this in several car chargers, and the N1 About/Status shows charging (AC), which is the faster charge mode. While you can short the pins in the larger end of a dedicated USB cable, if you can disassemble the connector, I found it much easier to open the charger itself to short the pins.
i also have a gigabyte mobo that has this feature but i havent gotten around to test it out yet. I dont think it would work because the feature is software based and will only bump up the voltage if the program detects an iphone connecting to your computer. Gigabyte doesnt want to be liable if they bump up voltage on every device you plug in and fry something.
btw I have tried charging my n1 from my computer and its extremely slow. started charging at around 5pm on sunday and at 11pm it went from about 23%-97% lol.
Yes, USB charging is very slow. It's actually good for the battery, though.
Maybe someone with some know how can look at the driver files for this 3x tech and see how it checks if its an Apple device. Then fool the check and presto!
Shame I don't know how to do any of this
There is a simple hardware (don't worry, it's on the cable) mod for faster charging; however, make sure the phone has good air vent (it means NO CASE when charging).
1. modify your microUSB cable, disconnect the data connector the A (host) plug, then shorten the data connector to the B plug. (This can charge N900 properly, and speed up n1 charging).
2. modify your powered (with AC adapter plugged) USB hub. Simply shorten the #2 and 3 connectors on USB jack. Make sure you cut the copper strip going to the chip or malfunction may occur.
These modification can greatly speed up the charging, but phone will produce a lot of heat (that's why you must have the phone "naked").
I don't understand this. If the phone + battery are capable of being charged at 1000 mAh from the wall charger then why need extra cooling when asking for 1000 mAh from a PC USB socket?
Mine's still defo getting only 500 mAh from the PC USB despite it being able to give up to 2700 mAh for iPad!!! All I want is my 100 mAh charge.
Because what he suggests isn't a proper charging but rather removal of slot power control, and will damage the battery / phone, if succeeds.
Proper charging at 1000mAh requires pulsing voltage - his hack doesn't provide that. Your MB does, but it requires SW intervention to turn it on.
So can someone brew the intervention ?
martinl1030 said:
i also have a gigabyte mobo that has this feature but i havent gotten around to test it out yet. I dont think it would work because the feature is software based and will only bump up the voltage if the program detects an iphone connecting to your computer. Gigabyte doesnt want to be liable if they bump up voltage on every device you plug in and fry something.
btw I have tried charging my n1 from my computer and its extremely slow. started charging at around 5pm on sunday and at 11pm it went from about 23%-97% lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are not doing anything to the voltage, simply allowing more current to pass.
And as said in this thread, any typical data USB cable will charge very slowly. And most standard USB ports charge well less than the max specced 500mAh, in fact my subnote at work I found charged my old phone at around 150mah one time when I was dead and needed to top off and it's all I had available.
i'm not sure of the pinout on the micro USB port but i'm pretty sure that that the Mini USB-B port that was used on phones like the G1 used shorting the -Data pin to the unused 5th pin (actually pin 4 on the connector pinout) to activate AC charge mode. some devices actually require a resister of a certain value to be placed across them to work(i know older motorola phones did like IDEN's)
one thing people often forget but should not forget is that current is drawn from the device using power. its not forced on the device. voltage is forced on a device and while a variance is usually ok for devices depending on how they were designed generally its not a good idea to exceed +1.5v on any low power DC device. 120V AC devices are designed to actually work in a much wider range like 100-130V but thats because of the power supply/nature of AC power. it always varies and in japan they use 100v 60hz AC so many electronics power supplies are designed to work in the full range to save costs and only have to make 1 unit for all (same deal with 220-240 switches on PC power supplies)
the reason why you don't want to do this mod is you could damage you PC's motherboard by pulling too much current from its circuits. USB spec is 500ma. performing this type of mod on a power adapter (car or AC) that does not get recognized as an AC charger by the phone is a safer way to go. worst case senario is you break the charger (unless you mess up on the pinout then you could damage you phone too though)
I have TPT for 10 days now.
I have usual iisue with USB charging. When used like standard smartphone = put it to charger overnight. Not usable anyway. Charge rate about 5% per hour, which means 20 hours per full charge???
I even consulted it with local technical support. I was adviced to buy docking station with external power adapter .....
So ... I took regulated power supply, made a USB socket connected to it and started to measure
.. and look what I found
When device is switched on, usb power oscilates sligthly under 1000 mA. It is NOT using all available power of 2 Amps of stock power adapter!!!!!
But ... when I power the device off using power button. The current goes down to 300mA for about 5seconds and then raises to full 2 A!
Conclusion? It seems like control issue of the charging ciurcits. What if we can enable full 2A power even when turned on? SW issue?
Is there any chance, how to instruct internal power circuity to use all available power? ADB?
Well I guess that explains the slow charging that people have been reporting. I picked up a dock for my tablet from amazon for about $30 shipped. Now I just put my USB charger in my bag for when I am out and about and dock it when I get home. That being said when I was charging via USB before I had the dock, a full charge seemed to take about 6 hours or so.
As for your question regarding modifying the input charging rate while powered on, I am not sure that can be done via ADB. I am taking a stab in the dark here, but I wouldn't be surprised if the charging rate was hard coded into the power circuit. Which would make some sense so as not to draw to much power if someone wanted to try and charge their tablet while having it plugged into a laptop or USB hub. I am not sure if it has an auto sense capability to determine whether or not it is charging via USB from a port or from the power adapter. I do know when I hook it up to my computer to transfer files it offers me the option to charge via USB, but I think that is a software thing and not hardware. I could be wrong. Maybe if we had access to the board schematics I could figure out. I can read schematics and might be able to figure it out.
Any chance you could get a proper reading via the docking port on the tablet? I would be curious to see if it is always at 2A. I haven't counted the pins but I don't see why you would need more than VCC+, VCC-, GND and maybe a sense line. But I know there are more than 4 pins.
Sent from my ThinkPad Tablet using xda premium
I would say this is a SW issue. Maybe if we had the kernel source code someone could cook up a custom kernel with that control feature tweeked.
Temetka said:
~
Any chance you could get a proper reading via the docking port on the tablet? I would be curious to see if it is always at 2A. I haven't counted the pins but I don't see why you would need more than VCC+, VCC-, GND and maybe a sense line. But I know there are more than 4 pins.
~
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best thing to use is a watt meter if anyone wants to pursue this.
My findings indicated that the dock has a similar issue as the USB charger when the TPT is on.
Maximum current allowed at the dock connector was measured at just over 1A . Dock should charge the battery at a maximum rate of just over 1% per minute provided the battery charge level is below 70%. So if you discharge the battery to around 50% and compare charge rates you should see the difference between TPT on/off.
Hi everyone!
Firstly I am not sure if this is correct forum, but its only one related with hardware...
I has built my own emergency charger powered with solar energy.
It can provide 5V with 2A max. (about 10W) and provides two USB ports for devices.
Althought I dont have any phone/tablet with USB OTG (Host) function, I d like to prepare it to provide all this functions:
- charge two client devices
- charge two host devices
- charge one host and one client device
But, there is one problem with power - some OTG devices provides power, and some not.
Thats the thing, why I am asking - if both chargers connectors are powered and one host device is connected in it there will be a power collision - on one wire will be 5V from both sides - from e.g. phone and from charger. This will surely damage the phone because of shortcut.
I am right? Or, is a hosts power enabled, only, if there is not any external power plugged?
Hope, that anyone will understand, I can also provide a schematics later it it could help
Thanks anyone !!!
The wire is the same, so there won't be any collision, it doesn't matter where the voltage source point is when it's applied on the same wire (without any component in between the voltage sources).
I guess maybe the only thing will happen is that the phone battery won't have much or perhaps even no drain?
And speculating here on same line of thought, dunno exactly how the charging circuits work on the phone, but i guess it won't charge when in OTG mode even with an external power power source available...
My Touchpad doesn't provide OTG power but refuses to charge when in OTG mode, maybe other devices are different though. OTG will still work on it even if I disconnect the +5v Vcc (red) wire. If you wanted to force USB devices to be powered from the external supply maybe you could try disconnecting Vcc from the device.
Thanks - more people, more ideas,more knowledge
As told - there are two kinds of OTG devices - self powered (few Xperia`s and Samsung devices) and non powered (spunkler88`s Touchpad and e.g. my Xperia X10i).
In case of non powered devices, there shouldn`t be any problem, think that host just won`t accept power and nothing bad happens. But in case ot self.powered devices there is in OTG mode voltage on vcc pin - 3,3 or 5V (low power or high power mode).
I`m not so demanding to want host and slave to be charged at the same time.
We dont have to worry about non powered host devices, but afraid about powered ones... Or even if we don`t know, if our device is powered or not
Elusivo:
I know, that it is the same wire You maybe didn`t caught my point - there could be two power sources on one wire - one could be phone (in OTG mode) and one power on hub.
Will post an scheme as soon as possible.
HeliumX10 said:
I know, that it is the same wire You maybe didn`t caught my point - there could be two power sources on one wire - one could be phone (in OTG mode) and one power on hub.
Will post an scheme as soon as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, actually there shouldn't be any issues with this now that I think of it. The phone if providing powered USB OTG would simply act as a parallel voltage source with the charger meaning voltage stays the same and the available currents add.
So, there is the block diagram of device which i have built:
The red cross indicates the one wire collision when DEVICE B provides power. If device B doesn`t provide power there won`t be any problems surely.
But as I thought of it, there is no solution for it - parallel voltage will surely damage one device on one side. The power sources providing high-efficient PWM power has very very low input resistance. So if we connect any voltage to its output, very high current will flow throught and surely damage the power source. This can happen very easily, because from phycisict`s point of view the higher voltage source will damage the less voltage source (there is +/- 10% tolerance on USB power, so this could happen everytime).
So now I am thinking about some mosfet auto switching circuit, which could automatically connect or disconnect power from master device... Or maybe will simple add an switch which will disconnect the power from master device everytime and power just a slave.
< wrong posting removed >
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Just connect all the Vcc's together.
I've been using something similar on my B&N Nook Touch for months.
It's not a solar charger, but a modified $10 USB hub.
I can use USB host mode on my Nook and charge at the same time.
Of course, all the peripherals are powered off the hub power supply too.
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Since USB was really not designed to charge in host mode,
there are two problems related to getting the device charging circuit to play nicely.
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
If the device charging circuit is still enabled it will try to charge itself using itself!
When using host mode with incoming power the device charging circuit must be convinced to charge.
Renate NST said:
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, mostly yes, but dont want to try if this is also for all devices. Most of them could take beatings,some not... So trying to design absolute save solution
Renate NST said:
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See that, diode is used as blocking diode, which prevents shortcut So VCCs cant be connected together without protection. It seems that is for case I spoke about power provided from OTG device....
So as I see, simpliest solution will be the best. I will add a switch at the output for one USB ports VCC wire. And if I will use my charger as host active hub, will disconnect power (with switch) to one port, second port will be powered all the time. When charging two slave devices, i could switch power back too to the second USB port.
Renate NST said:
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, mainly thankx for this lines, once it happened that my phone indicated, thats chagring, but battery ran down.... Thought that was some kind of software relaed thing....
Hi Renate,
I've read and re-read your points several times and I think I understand.
My goal is to put together a battery powered USB Hub that also charges the phone at the same time. From your points, the B&N Nook is capable of going into Host mode while still accepting a charge - do you believe this to be true of most/all devices?
Did you have to do anything to get the Nook to charge in host mode other than supplying power by putting a jumper in lieu of the diode?
What $10 powered USB hub did you use?
Sorry for all the questions.
Renate NST said:
It doesn't pay to overthink this.
These devices are usually designed to take a beating.
Just connect all the Vcc's together.
I've been using something similar on my B&N Nook Touch for months.
It's not a solar charger, but a modified $10 USB hub.
I can use USB host mode on my Nook and charge at the same time.
Of course, all the peripherals are powered off the hub power supply too.
A general schematic is attached, pull the diode and insert a jumper.
Since USB was really not designed to charge in host mode,
there are two problems related to getting the device charging circuit to play nicely.
When using host mode to directly power a peripheral you must make the device charging circuit go off.
To go into host mode the device must raise the Vcc line to 90% of 5V, i.e. >4.5V.
If the device charging circuit is still enabled it will try to charge itself using itself!
When using host mode with incoming power the device charging circuit must be convinced to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
From your points, the B&N Nook is capable of going into Host mode while still accepting a charge - do you believe this to be true of most/all devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will answer these lines
Nook can charge when in host mode. But some new devices form Sony and Samsung cant,because they are providing power to hosted device. And if you connect active hub to them in host mode, you will damage the phone - thats why I opened this topic, but I solved it with simple diode indicator and switch (manually disconnects power to the phone if it provides power itself).
zuberio said:
What $10 powered USB hub did you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just meant any generic hub. They are all about the same.
Usually the input diode is easy to identify.
Often it's the physically largest device present.
If you want, post a good photo.
The 4 port ones have one chip, 2 for 7, 3 for 10, 4 for 13.
I've never seen/heard of a hub chip with more than four outputs.
Yes, the USB spec does say only four outputs, but that's for unpowered hubs.
The spec for all the device USB chips have a maximum recommended of 7V on the lines.
I don't lose any sleep putting my 5V in.
Thanks for warning me off just going out and applying Vcc to my phone in host mode without first testing if it supplies it's own power.
When you say diode indicator do you mean an LED? And if the LED lights up you flip a switch to disconnect the hub power to the phone?
HeliumX10 said:
I will answer these lines
Nook can charge when in host mode. But some new devices form Sony and Samsung cant,because they are providing power to hosted device. And if you connect active hub to them in host mode, you will damage the phone - thats why I opened this topic, but I solved it with simple diode indicator and switch (manually disconnects power to the phone if it provides power itself).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------
Ah, I understand now.
I guess the safest option for my battery backup/powered usb hub device is to install a 'mode' switch. Either it's a battery backup, or it's a battery powered USB hub - depending on the 'mode'.
Now I just need to hunt down a cheap powered USB hub and a battery that will power it or my phone.......
Actually, would there be any issues using an inline powered USB hub and disconnecting the Vcc from the host side to instead attach to a 5V 1A power source? The power source could probably be two minty-boosts in parallel.
[EDIT] Doh, I looked again at your hub.jpg - I just need to use a powered USB hub setup like that with a switch to bypass the diode for the 'phone charge mode' mentioned above (probably with some special resistances between D+ and D- depending on the device).
Renate NST said:
I just meant any generic hub. They are all about the same.
Usually the input diode is easy to identify.
Often it's the physically largest device present.
If you want, post a good photo.
The 4 port ones have one chip, 2 for 7, 3 for 10, 4 for 14.
I've never seen/heard of a hub chip with more than four outputs.
Yes, the USB spec does say only four outputs, but that's for unpowered hubs.
The spec for all the device USB chips have a maximum recommended of 7V on the lines.
I don't lose any sleep putting my 5V in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
(probably with some special resistances between D+ and D- depending on the device).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, resistors between D+ and D- are only for charging devices that are not communicating.
If you want to charge and communicate then you have to leave those alone.
That's why I said that you may need a kernel driver mod or an app to turn on charging when communicating.
I agree and understand - I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post.
My device will have two separate modes.
Mode 1:
Battery powered USB hub that doesn't provide power upstream to the OTG host device.
Mode 2:
Battery backup power device - powered USB hub disconnected
Such a device would be compatible with all Android devices, regardless of weather they provide power in OTG Host mode or not
Renate NST said:
No, resistors between D+ and D- are only for charging devices that are not communicating.
If you want to charge and communicate then you have to leave those alone.
That's why I said that you may need a kernel driver mod or an app to turn on charging when communicating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zuberio said:
I agree and understand - I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post.
My device will have two separate modes.
Mode 1:
Battery powered USB hub that doesn't provide power upstream to the OTG host device.
Mode 2:
Battery backup power device - powered USB hub disconnected
Such a device would be compatible with all Android devices, regardless of weather they provide power in OTG Host mode or not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understood clearly
This is the exactly the same I made completely myself. It has only 2 ports (no active chip, simplier and more reliable solution). It has One connector only for OTG master and second one port is for host device. When switch is on, power is also delivered into OTG host port, otherwise poered are all of the slave ports. But mine is designed mainly as emergency charger (for OTG Master device or two slave only phones/devices), or as active hub (thats why I added the switch with resistor and diode as power check).
Will post a diagram if you want.
prie irgseha
My touchpad is not power OTG, but refuses to load when the OTG mode, other devices will be different. OTG still working on it, even if I disconnect Vcc +5 V (red) wire. If you force, the USB devices be powered by external power supply might try unplugging the device Vcc.
BC1.2 Usb battery charging specs
Hi All,
I see that the last post here is a month ago, but here goes anyway. I am looking to do the same thing - I want to hack a 4 port powered USB hub to also charge the host (upstream) device.
Two modes of operation shouldn't be required. The specs allow for the phone to act as the USB host, and simultaneously charge. A powered USB should be easy to hack to simultaneously charge the phone and give you a useable USB hub for keyboard/mouse/usb stick or high-powered devices you can't use directly on the phone like USB hard disks.
I've made a reasonably close study of the Battery Charging Specification rev 1.2 (dec 2010) (USB implementers forum). The relevant sections and diagrams are around section 6.3: Standard ACA (accessory charging adapter) which could be a modified 4-port powered USB hub, hacked to be an "Accessory Charger Adapter" (figure 6-1):
1. The charger port should be 5V; jump that to the 5V V+ pin on the "OTG Port" - the OTG port would be the USB upstream port on the hub.
2. An ID resistance needs to be fitted integral to the μ-A Plug connecting to the OTG device, 124kohm between the ID pin and GND. (ref table 5-3 Resistances: RID_A; table 6-2 row 6)
I won't be able to use it anywhere else, because of the short to the V+ pin I've put there, but I would then have a battery charger for my phone which simultaneously works as a 4 port hub.
I have a Galaxy Note N7000. Does anyone know if this is FULLY compliant with the above referenced BC1.2 spec? I wonder because the Note also does audio and HDMI out on that port. Presumably with non-standard Rid values at the connector end.
Different hardware supports different ID pin sensing and data pin multiplexing.
On the Nook Touch, which uses a TPS65291, ID sensing is just short/open.
There is ability to use UART through the ULPI interface, but I haven't noticed it.
Many devices have separate muxes to integrate MHL, UART, CarKit (audio) and USB.
The CarKit is the tricky one because the signal goes below ground.
scitobor said:
I have a Galaxy Note N7000. Does anyone know if this is FULLY compliant with the above referenced BC1.2 spec? I wonder because the Note also does audio and HDMI out on that port. Presumably with non-standard Rid values at the connector end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect that the N7000 is very similar in Specs to the I9100, and thus it is more likely that it conform to the BC1.1 as mentioned and linked in this thread/post here. Remember that HDMI (and possibly audio) is not covered by the BC specs and very manufacturer dependent.
I need to have an MHL adapter connected to my Samsung Galaxy s4 i9506 which mirrors it's screen to a monitor/info screen indefinitely, but the problem is that an MHL adapter outputs a measly 300mA (Tried lots of chargers but the output never changed) which is nowhere enough. I did some research and found out that I can up that number by installing a custom ROM that enables fast charging so tried that with my other phones doing the same task that are i9505 and SGH-M919. I managed to install a custom ROM that enabled fast charge through STweaks which upped the output all the way to 1000mA, but I haven't been able to find out a ROM that enables the feature for i9506. I tried LineageOS 14.1 which should have fast charge enabled by default, but when I used Ampere to check the charging current the output was 300mA, so I assume that fast charge didn't get enabled.
Does anybody know a ROM, that enables fast charge for i9506, or how I could scrape by with that measly 300mA when the only thing the phone needs to do is to mirror a web page to a monitor. Chrome cast isn't an option, because if the connection drops you need to manually connect it again, and since the phones should be operational for months without rebooting the connection is bound to drop sooner or later.
That's a kernel thing. So, unless you find a kernel for the I9506 that supports 1000 mAh USB charging, you're out of luck in this regard.
I guess the only way to survive with 300 mAh would be to turn the screen off, otherwise the phone will use more power than it receives.
Another solution would be wireless charging. I think this is your best bet.
Is there an app that I could use that timers off the screen during the night and then wakes it in the morning? There are a lot of apps that let you time music and other apps, and even turn off the screen, but I haven't found one yet that could also wake the phone up later.
nyoatype said:
Is there an app that I could use that timers off the screen during the night and then wakes it in the morning? There are a lot of apps that let you time music and other apps, and even turn off the screen, but I haven't found one yet that could also wake the phone up later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe Tasker.
@nyoatype
I'm searching for same as you.
Having mhl adapter (which is original as i think, working without power source and resolution is 1080p60). After connecting to AC 1.2A max charging power for phone (I9505) is only 300mAh, on original Samsung charger 2.1A is little bit more - 400mAh but obviously it's still not enough for me. Power output doesn't change even after enabling USB fast charging (700mAh or 1000mAh, doesn't matter).
I was looking to kernel source https://github.com/Slim80/Imperium_...ter/arch/arm/mach-msm/board-fusion3-battery.c
where are defined values of charging for MHL 500/MHL 900/MHL 1500 (phone probably can detect which one is plugged) but after increase charge_current_max and charge_current for every MHL type I do not see any difference unfortunately, so I'm searching still what's is going on and where i can increase power output from MHL to phone.
I'm searching for a way to change resolution of MHL video output too, so if anyone kernel master can follow me a little bit, will be great (maybe here https://github.com/Slim80/Imperium_Kernel_TW_5.0.1/blob/master/drivers/video/msm/external_common.c in line 40 -
HTML:
int hdmi_forced_resolution = - 1 ;
)
PolishVodka said:
@nyoatype
I'm searching for same as you.
Having mhl adapter (which is original as i think, working without power source and resolution is 1080p60). After connecting to AC 1.2A max charging power for phone (I9505) is only 300mAh, on original Samsung charger 2.1A is little bit more - 400mAh but obviously it's still not enough for me. Power output doesn't change even after enabling USB fast charging (700mAh or 1000mAh, doesn't matter).
I was looking to kernel source https://github.com/Slim80/Imperium_...ter/arch/arm/mach-msm/board-fusion3-battery.c
where are defined values of charging for MHL 500/MHL 900/MHL 1500 (phone probably can detect which one is plugged) but after increase charge_current_max and charge_current for every MHL type I do not see any difference unfortunately, so I'm searching still what's is going on and where i can increase power output from MHL to phone.
I'm searching for a way to change resolution of MHL video output too, so if anyone kernel master can follow me a little bit, will be great (maybe here https://github.com/Slim80/Imperium_Kernel_TW_5.0.1/blob/master/drivers/video/msm/external_common.c in line 40 -
HTML:
int hdmi_forced_resolution = - 1 ;
)
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I used this ROM to up up my numbers with i9505 to 500mAh-640mAh depending on charger and mhl adapter, so if it's of any help to you you can try it. Let me know if you find anything that could be of use : D https://forum.xda-developers.com/ga...dcteam-android-source-project-mra58v-t3251663
Is there any way to wake phone up with a timer? For example make the phone wake up every morning at 8 o'clock? I'm using automate to put the phone to sleep at a fixed time, but waking it up doesn't seem to be as easy (The timer block in automate actually has a checkbox with description "Awake device", but it doesn't actually wake the phone up).
nyoatype said:
Is there any way to wake phone up with a timer? For example make the phone wake up every morning at 8 o'clock? I'm using automate to put the phone to sleep at a fixed time, but waking it up doesn't seem to be as easy (The timer block in automate actually has a checkbox with description "Awake device", but it doesn't actually wake the phone up).
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I already told you to try Tasker. Did you do it?
Pwnycorn said:
I already told you to try Tasker. Did you do it?
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I haven't yet added a payment option to Google store (Since this is work related and I'd need to use the companys payment information) so haven't been able to try Tasker. I'll try it when I'm able to get my boss' approval.
I'm also trying to do some physical changes to one of the MHL adapters to bypass it, so that the current would come straight from the charger. This means I'll cut the Power and GND (red and black wires) of the microUSB cable connected to the phone and connect them in parallel with the red and black cables going to the MHL adapter. I'm not sure, but this might cause the MHL adapter get power from the charger, but instead of supplying the power to the phone, the phone would get it's power straight from the charger (although it would still be USB-charging since the data pins are being used, but that wouldn't matter since I usually get 1000mAh when USB charging with computer).
Another possible solution is to use wireless charging pad, because I read that if the USB-connection uses MTP or PTP the wireless charging will take priority, so the data would go through the USB but the power would come from the wireless charger. I'm not sure about this because I read it from another forum post, so if somebody could confirm/deny it I would be seriously grateful!
Thanks for your replies and suggestions so far! This is one heck of a situation I've been put into so I really appreciate the help!
Hello all,
First thread here and hoping you guys and girls with more experience can help.
Basically I am fitting my nexus 7 2012 in my car but its got the common charging problem where my battery drains faster than I can charge it.
I have ordered a new USB port strip as I've read that can fix it and fingers crossed with that.
My problem/requirement:
1. I want to charge the tablet via the usb port using a hardwired 5V 2A device this will be plugged into a otg y splitter which is then plugged into the tablet.
2. The USB A side of the splitter I want to connect to my cars ECU (it has a USB port) so I can read the data on that (basically a very expensive memory stick)
I wanted to confirm that this would work and id be able to read data at the same time as charging it.
I also wanted to double check I'm not somehow going to send my 5v 2a power down into my ECU and set it on fire
On a side note, if my new USB port replacement doesn't solve the issue of charging the tablet i will have to remove the battery and hardwire it in, will i still be ok with using the USB port for the ecu while charging hardwired with no battery?
Kind Regards
Tim
Getting any USB 2.0 device to take current while hosting is tricky.
Usually it involves talking directly to the PMIC (power management IC).
If it's a fixed installation, why not remove the battery?
It will avoid the grief of the battery swelling up, which is not too unusual for things plugged in all the time.
I've been using a Nexus 7 (2013) for a few years, but just charging on USB.
It started falling out of its nice holder.
That's when I realized that the battery was all puffed up making the back convex.
I cut off the battery cell itself on the metal tabs and soldered in wires to a 4 V 2 A supply.
I found out that the BMS is a bit balky, it refused to turn on.
So I connected it to USB to "charge" it for about 10 seconds.
Then I could turn it on (without the USB).
Ok, I could have bypassed the BMS entirely but that can be a whole 'nother can of worms too.