So I've had higher end pioneer, alpines, Kenwood's etc. I just bought an obscure android unit because 1 it was cheap and two it mirrors flawlessly. Here's my question... Across all of these platforms whenever I adjust the frequencies either in the phone os or (now) on the head unit when one, say low 60hz or lower goes up I lose volume on the other end of the spectrum. This has been steady across everything, phone's too LG's, Samsung, HTC 10 my current phone. Also they have all been both rooted and stock, it's becoming infuriating. Is this just a limitation in the hardware not normally noticed or simply overlooked by manufacturers because most people im assuming dont listen at loud volumes over these specific frequencies, ie earbuds and such. Or have I been consistently messing something up? I've tried at least 100 different apps. rooted aftermarket sound mods, bluetooth,aux input. All with the same result. And the tracks aren't necessarily the issue either because I've gone in and re-amatured (sorry) those as well. I searched and searched many a waiting in the car for the wife and found nothing. But I think the search engines hate me. Any input would be appreciated.
I've found the same thing with a lot of EQ's available via the play store.
However, I'd highly recommend a mod that's been around forever called Viper4Android - it does NOT act like those EQ apps you get from the app store, where increasing the bass actually just lowers the mids and treble. Without Viper4Android on my MTCE PX5 head-unit, I would not be happy with the sound quality. With Viper4Android, the unit sounds better than any other headunit I've owned (although, I am using an external amp as well). But even with the internal amp, Viper4Android brings the sound quality to new levels.
I've tried all of the sound-patch MCUs and none of them make anywhere near the difference that Viper4Android does. It has a "real" EQ (10-band) as well as lots of other very cool (and useful) functions.
Some people will tell you that you should leave the EQ on your radio "flat" becuase that is "how the music is supposed to sound", but that is absolutely false. That may be true *if* your car was a recording studio, where everything is optimal for sound-quality, but a car is about the furthest thing from a recording studio. A car radio with a "flat" EQ sounds absolutely nothing like the artist intended because the car environment is an absolutely horrible place for good sound-quality. Viper4Android allows you to correct the issues caused by the car environment *and* tweak the sound to your specific liking.
When it comes to sound-quality, all that *really* matters is what *you* think of the sound (not what someone else tells you it should sound like) - and Viper4Android is the best tool I've found to make the music sound good to *you*.
Just my opinion, of course.
Had it
jtrosky said:
I've found the same thing with a lot of EQ's available via the play store.
However, I'd highly recommend a mod that's been around forever called Viper4Android - it does NOT act like those EQ apps you get from the app store, where increasing the bass actually just lowers the mids and treble. Without Viper4Android on my MTCE PX5 head-unit, I would not be happy with the sound quality. With Viper4Android, the unit sounds better than any other headunit I've owned (although, I am using an external amp as well). But even with the internal amp, Viper4Android brings the sound quality to new levels.
I've tried all of the sound-patch MCUs and none of them make anywhere near the difference that Viper4Android does. It has a "real" EQ (10-band) as well as lots of other very cool (and useful) functions.
Some people will tell you that you should leave the EQ on your radio "flat" becuase that is "how the music is supposed to sound", but that is absolutely false. That may be true *if* your car was a recording studio, where everything is optimal for sound-quality, but a car is about the furthest thing from a recording studio. A car radio with a "flat" EQ sounds absolutely nothing like the artist intended because the car environment is an absolutely horrible place for good sound-quality. Viper4Android allows you to correct the issues caused by the car environment *and* tweak the sound to your specific liking.
When it comes to sound-quality, all that *really* matters is what *you* think of the sound (not what someone else tells you it should sound like) - and Viper4Android is the best tool I've found to make the music sound good to *you*.
Just my opinion, of course.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had V4A on my stylo 2+ and didn't sound bad but,and again I was probably using something incorrectly but same deal raise the high end and signal to my subs would fade out and vice-versa. I was hoping it wasn't a hardware limitation but it really seems that way. Best idea I've found it phone and headunit slightly adjusted to define the signals then an active preamp equalizer / crossover to split said freq and supply some of missing wattage from the poor audio chips at least in the Android HU's. But thanks for the input. :good:
I'm sure that not all Android head-units are created equal, but I can say with absolute certainty that with Viper4Android on my Eonon-branded MTCE-WWW Android 8 head-unit, I am definitely not losing low end when I increase the high-end (or vice-versa). In fact, I get the best bass that I've ever had in a head-unit and I'm actually having to go out of my way to sound-deaden and "tighten up" the car interior in order to handle the bass without vibration-related sounds coming from the inteior parts at higher volume levels! The sound is incredible - even from on-line streaming sources such as Pandora and Spotify (I have mine setup to automatically use separate V4A profiles for each music app via Tasker).
However, I do have a small extenral 45Wx4 RMS Kicker KEY180.4 auto-tuning DSP amp and a small Pioneer TS-WH500A under-the-seat subwoofer. Between the EQ and the Convolver in V4A (I personally like the BBE5 convolver .irs file), this thing sounds incredible. I was really concerned about sound-quality with this Android head-unit, but that turned out to be a non-issue with V4A (probably would have been an issue without it).
But even with the stock amp, it sounded really good with V4A (not quite powerful enough for me though). The Kicker KEY180.4 auto-tuning DSP amp definitely helps though. Love that amp. It has a higher noise floor than I'd like, but it sounds fantastic (I originally had an Alpine KTP-445U 45Wx4 RMS amp and the Kicker sounds *so* much better).
I would defintiely give V4A a try if you are looking for better sound quality. I feel that car steroes can benefit from 4VA even more than phones.
Related
Hi,
I've just installed a new Joying Android Head Unit and I'm pretty disappointed by the sound quality - in fact it's awful - on radio and playing very high quality mp3s - I know it's not the car speakers because they sounded great on the old system.
So I came here wondering if there is anything I can do about it?
I've installed PowerAmp app and tweaked the equalizer, however the sound always sounds tinny - especially noticeable on the base.
At the moment I'm only getting sound from the front speakers which could be a wiring issue..
Looking around I notice there is a soldering solution to fixing the radio sound - is this a general fix for sound output? Anyone tried it?
Finally, would fitting an external amp improve things, or would the signal from the Joying unit still be too poor?
Yeah I completed 7floor's sound mode on mine. It helped with the squashed sound and tinny-ness now the sound is better, not that of a brand name head unit, but better.
welcome to the world of chinese android HUs. Add an external DSP and external amp. That would give you the most noticeable boost. Find a good deal on a used amp from your local craigslist, and for DSP, check out the minidsp 2x4. It's roughly $100 and is fantastic.
Can anyone explain the difference between DSP and Amp, and how this links in with the HU?
I get that the HU has the audio controlled by the Sound Processor IC which is controlled by the MCU - and the point of the mod is to control it via Android.
Does the DSP replace the processing of the Sound processor with/without the MCU, or does it process sound afterwards?
The Amp presumably comes last and only serves to boost the power of the provided signal.
I'm happy to buy a decent dsp and amp, as I think the android unit is fab apart from the sound quality, if the quality I can eventually produce rivals that of a reasonable audio system.
Sorry, but I'm somewhat of a noob when it comes to car audio systems.
dsp -
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
lets you set electronic cross-overs, equalization, and time alignment. Effectively a super advanced sound processor that overrides the HU sound processing. So what you do is set the HU EQ to flat, so that it's not doing any sound processing to the signal, and let the DSP do the work. the minidsp even has tools that let you auto-eq the system using an app called REW. Similar to how home audio receivers have tools like accueq etc.
an amp is exactly what you say. It becomes essential if you swap out the stock speakers for nicer ones that require more power. They accept low level RCA inputs, as does the DSP, so if you plan to add a DSP you may as well add an amp.
This becomes quite a bit of work to set up, as it's a lot of laborious wiring. But if you want the best sound out of these things, it's the way to go. I hated the stock audio system in my car, so for me it was a no-brainer. I'm on a quest to squeeze the best sound I can out of my unit, and while I'm still not quite there, it's miles better than where it started.
Hisma said:
dsp -
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
lets you set electronic cross-overs, equalization, and time alignment. Effectively a super advanced sound processor that overrides the HU sound processing. So what you do is set the HU EQ to flat, so that it's not doing any sound processing to the signal, and let the DSP do the work. the minidsp even has tools that let you auto-eq the system using an app called REW. Similar to how home audio receivers have tools like accueq etc.
an amp is exactly what you say. It becomes essential if you swap out the stock speakers for nicer ones that require more power. They accept low level RCA inputs, as does the DSP, so if you plan to add a DSP you may as well add an amp.
This becomes quite a bit of work to set up, as it's a lot of laborious wiring. But if you want the best sound out of these things, it's the way to go. I hated the stock audio system in my car, so for me it was a no-brainer. I'm on a quest to squeeze the best sound I can out of my unit, and while I'm still not quite there, it's miles better than where it started.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever use the mini dsp and if so how was the quality with Android being the source? Did you do the 7floors sound bypass mod as well or is there a better method now? I have 2 amps, 1 mono 1 4channel and would like better control and quality on my rk3188. Thanks
I've recently fitted an Xtrons PB88UNVP (MTCE_GS_V2.88_3) PX5 headunit. The speaker power is 4x45W (probably pretty standard on these things) and generally sounds good.
However, it's quieter than my previous WinCE unit and I find I have to run it higher up the volume scale for a decent listening volume.
Sometimes I like my music loud, and I can turn it up to MAX (30) without deafening myself or even experiencing clipping from the headunit's amplifier - output is still clean and undistorted. I'm running the EQ fairly flat and Loudness is set to ON.
My question is - NOT what volume should I be listening at in my car to still hear the engine, traffic around me and be safe on the roads - BUT is it safe to run these headunits at 25-30 (83-100%) continuously/for extended periods? Will it overheat or be damaged by running at this sort of volume?
Thanks
I noticed the exact same thing - again, compared to my previous WinCE units, just like you. These Android units just seem significantly less powerful in comparison. I have a feeling that the 45Wx4 max rating (I know it's not RMS) is a little on the "wishful thinking" side. My WinCE units (18->25Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 max) seemed considerably more powerful.
I haven't seen these Android units list the RMS power, but I have a feeling it's lower than a lot of the older WinCE units. It also seems like the volume scale is just "different" - it doesn't start getting even somewhat loud until the volume is 2/3rd's of the way up or higher.
It's really hard to say if they are clipping or not in those upper ranges, but I have a feeling they may be - depending on how you have the EQ set - even if you can't hear the distortion.
To me, it seems like you have to sacrifice a lot on the audio side of things for the flexibility that you get from Android.
@jtrosky: I have noticed distortion when the EQ is set to the Rock preset, which is very bass-heavy, and is turned up high. I don't personally like heavily biased EQ profiles and would prefer to run it as flat as possible across the frequency spectrum. A little bit of tuning seems to help these units particularly though. I agree with you that their amplifiers are weak, or rather underpowered. That said, my experience so far is that at medium volumes it sounds alright, to the extent that I didn't notice my sub wasn't working at first.
So do you regularly run yours at two thirds volume or above and do you think they can handle it for a sustained period?
Has anyone ever fried one of these?
Honestly, I connected an amp shortly after installing, so I can't say how they would last over time if used at louder volumes frequently with the internal amp. To me, it seems like they have the volume control setup in a way where it doesn't get very loud until at least 2/3rd's volume - and then every click makes a substantial difference. So I wonder if they just have the volume scale "tuned" differenlty than other head-units? But my point was that the unit can be clipping without you even hearing any distortion - clipping is not always audible. I had a LOC hooked up for testing briefly and it had a "clipping" light - and I was seeing clipping way before any distortion was audible. I think these units use pretty poor quality amps.
I've actually removed the Android head-unit completely and went back to my older WinCE-based unit. Just was not happy with the Android unit (sound quality, noise-related issues, etc).
I've actually removed the Android head-unit completely and went back to my older WinCE-based unit. Just was not happy with the Android unit (sound quality, noise-related issues, etc).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's sad to hear. I deliberated for so long before taking the plunge and buying one. I like the Android platform, and the few niggles I have with mine aren't sufficient to make me want to change it... yet.
I must admit though, when I made my first post I had been listening to DAB, which is probably the quietest source. FM is probably 15% louder at the same volume setting, and is the loudest of all the sources. I don't know if there is any way to make this louder, as a USB device, and there is no volume 'boost' option within realzoulou's DAB-Z app (only a <= 100% setting).
FM on full whack does distort a bit, but it's too loud to listen to constantly, so while a bit weak I think the on-board amp should be capable of more.
Better control of volume on different sources within Android would be nice, do you know if this is possible?
You can alter the volume of each source in the Factory Settings, under the "Voice" tab...
If you are coming from a stock radio with stock speakers, the Android head-units may be an upgrade in terms of sound-quality. But for me, coming from an aftermarket, high-quality WinCE unit, the sound quality just wasn't up to par. The WinCE unit I'm referring to (Dynavin N7) has high-quality audio components though (4V pre-outs, "high-resolution Burr Brown 24-Bit Digital to Analogue converters", etc) - so once I got used to the sound quality of the Dynavin (or even the Rosen GM1010 befoer it), it was hard switching over to the Android unit. Believe me, I went to great lengths to make it work, but it just wasn't mean to be, considering the sound-quality downgrade and the noise-related issues I had with the Android unit.
Don't get me wrong - I liked almost everything about having full-blown Android as the OS - it's just the sound quality that I wasn't 100% happy with - which, to me, is very important.
So I have a PX5 head unit equipped with DSP and I've tried tuning the sound with the stock 36 band dsp equalizer and installing Viper4Android. I've tried multiple IRS files but I still can not get a good sound setting! Either the audio sounds like it's playing in head phones, sounds like it's in a can or there is way too much bass and it muffles out the rest of the music. I've also had problems where the bass causes the volume to dip up and down. Other issues include configuring the direction of the audio, the tweeters work but sometimes it sounds like audio is only coming from the middle back. I'm running stock 2009 Honda Civic speakers which used to sound really good with the stock radio.
I'd really like to know what settings you guys have for your audio and how it's working out. If it persists I might just have to revert back to the stock head unit.
Sounds a lot like you have something wired wrong so that the polarity on one side is the reverse of the other side. Start by setting the fader to front only and see if the sound improves then try back only. If there is an improvement check that the speaker wire harness is pinned as per the label on the radio and that the wires go to the correct terminal on the speaker end.
nic2k said:
Sounds a lot like you have something wired wrong so that the polarity on one side is the reverse of the other side. Start by setting the fader to front only and see if the sound improves then try back only. If there is an improvement check that the speaker wire harness is pinned as per the label on the radio and that the wires go to the correct terminal on the speaker end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
If I set it to only the front it will play only from the front but I can not recreate that sweet spot that my stock head unit had. Either the sound sounds like it's too far back or too far front with no bass. It is very frustrating..
Of course you wouldn't want to listen to it with the fader all the way forward or back! That's only so you can figure out if there's a speaker wired backwards and which one it is.
Anyone have a good IRS solution? Or maybe there's a way to install Dolby Atmos?
Bump,
Ahhouai said:
Bump,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And of course: Remove Viper4Android as soon as possible.
On newer versions of Android and these units it will only make your sound worse. It was developed years ago for Android 4, or something like that, and the latest "official" supported android version is 7. And for devices without DSP.
It is not "even with Viper4Android". It is "and Viper4Android makes it even worse".
surfer63 said:
And of course: Remove Viper4Android as soon as possible.
On newer versions of Android and these units it will only make your sound worse. It was developed years ago for Android 4, or something like that, and the latest "official" supported android version is 7. And for devices without DSP.
It is not "even with Viper4Android". It is "and Viper4Android makes it even worse".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So then how can I adjust my sound. The stock DSP Equalizer on my unit is dog ****. It has 32 bands Eq but no setting to make an adjustment to the bass. Is it possible to flash a different DSP Equalizer to my unit?
Bumping again #YOLO
I've seen a few posts recently about how to set up Viper4Android on an Android head unit, so thought I would start this thread so that we could share some ideas. The configuration that I posted below is what I came up with in 15 minutes of experimenting yesterday. It's not a definitive or optimum config, it's just what I came up with, but I am very happy with the result. The purpose of this thread is to share ideas and configurations, due to there being a complete lack of this kind of information anywhere else that I could find.
First, a disclaimer: I'm half deaf, have constant ringing in my ears, and I am most definately not an audiophile, so take anything I say below with a grain of salt. Having said that, I do appreciate clarity when listening to music, so that is always my priority.
So I installed an android head unit in my car last week, installed the Hal9k ROM which came with Viper4Android (V4A) pre-installed. I've played around with V4A on my phone before with goods results, it's mainly geared towards phones with earphones, so don't expect too much from it using it in the car. But I played around with it yesterday and came up with a setup that I am really happy with, it gives in my opinion a richer, fuller sound, with no loss of clarity.
So here is what I did:
1) Select the speaker icon down the bottom. The headphone setup certainly has a lot more options available, but I went with the speaker setup as that's what I'm using.
2) Turn on the Master Limiter
3) I turned on Playback Gain control for a specific reason. My head unit has a bit of hiss with no signal at very high volumes. I can't hear it while the engine is running, but it's there. Bumping up the playback gain control let me turn down the gain on the head unit (look in Factory Settings) which reduced the hiss, but without any clipping or distortion that I can hear. I set Strength to 2, Max Gain to 9x, and output threshold to -1db.
4) I turned on the FIR equaliser. I was using the equaliser in the Amplifier app that came with my head unit, but I would rather just have all of these settings in one place, so I set the Amp equaliser to flat, and made all of my adjustments within the FIR equaliser. My setup tends to be a bit bass-heavy to my ears, so I just use the equaliser to gently taper off the bass, and I leave everything else flat. But just adjust it so that it sounds right to you in your car with your choice of music.
5) I turned on Reverberation. I dare say many will scoff at this, but I like the effect. It makes the sound more "full", without any loss of clarity that I can hear. I used fairly minimal settings to achieve this effect. Room size = 25m2, Sound Field = 6m, Damping Factor = 20%, Wet Signal= 20%, Dry Signal = 50%.
And that's what I came up with in 15 minutes. I'm really happy with the result though. Hopefully that will give others a starting point to do some more experimentation. And if you have your own ideas, please share them here
jrobbom5 said:
I've seen a few posts recently about how to set up Viper4Android on an Android head unit, so thought I would start this thread so that we could share some ideas. The configuration that I posted below is what I came up with in 15 minutes of experimenting yesterday. It's not a definitive or optimum config, it's just what I came up with, but I am very happy with the result. The purpose of this thread is to share ideas and configurations, due to there being a complete lack of this kind of information anywhere else that I could find.
First, a disclaimer: I'm half deaf, have constant ringing in my ears, and I am most definately not an audiophile, so take anything I say below with a grain of salt. Having said that, I do appreciate clarity when listening to music, so that is always my priority.
So I installed an android head unit in my car last week, installed the Hal9k ROM which came with Viper4Android (V4A) pre-installed. I've played around with V4A on my phone before with goods results, it's mainly geared towards phones with earphones, so don't expect too much from it using it in the car. But I played around with it yesterday and came up with a setup that I am really happy with, it gives in my opinion a richer, fuller sound, with no loss of clarity.
So here is what I did:
1) Select the speaker icon down the bottom. The headphone setup certainly has a lot more options available, but I went with the speaker setup as that's what I'm using.
2) Turn on the Master Limiter
3) I turned on Playback Gain control for a specific reason. My head unit has a bit of hiss with no signal at very high volumes. I can't hear it while the engine is running, but it's there. Bumping up the playback gain control let me turn down the gain on the head unit (look in Factory Settings) which reduced the hiss, but without any clipping or distortion that I can hear. I set Strength to 2, Max Gain to 9x, and output threshold to -1db.
4) I turned on the FIR equaliser. I was using the equaliser in the Amplifier app that came with my head unit, but I would rather just have all of these settings in one place, so I set the Amp equaliser to flat, and made all of my adjustments within the FIR equaliser. My setup tends to be a bit bass-heavy to my ears, so I just use the equaliser to gently taper off the bass, and I leave everything else flat. But just adjust it so that it sounds right to you in your car with your choice of music.
5) I turned on Reverberation. I dare say many will scoff at this, but I like the effect. It makes the sound more "full", without any loss of clarity that I can hear. I used fairly minimal settings to achieve this effect. Room size = 25m2, Sound Field = 6m, Damping Factor = 20%, Wet Signal= 20%, Dry Signal = 50%.
And that's what I came up with in 15 minutes. I'm really happy with the result though. Hopefully that will give others a starting point to do some more experimentation. And if you have your own ideas, please share them here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I downloaded Malay Mod {and got the Full Version}. It also came with V4A but I hear no difference no matter what I've got selected. Mine has "Headset - Phone Speaker - Bluetooth Device - USB/Dock" tried them all ..
My headunit pushes amps via RCAs, so maybe it doesn't work through those channels?
Good ideas on your tuning {I've for tinnitus too}.
Hi,
i recently recieved this unit (supposedly running 10.1 w. 9-inch screen, 1GB/16GB, but from other threads here i assume that this would not be quite true (Android version....)). Anyhow, after installing it in my car, i noticed that the stock car radio ceased to work and i wonder if it would be possible to get sound working from it again, even if this Android head-unit is connected?
No one has this problem? at all?
Sure, i have the radio of this Android unit working, but i'm just trying to understand why it would cut off the stock radio?
my03 said:
No one has this problem? at all?
Sure, i have the radio of this Android unit working, but i'm just trying to understand why it would cut off the stock radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm having the same problem did you manage to find a solution to the problem
yes and no. On my unit, there is this L+R "aux in" connectors hanging out of the main harness (that comes out of the Android unit) and the sellers (after 5 roundtrips of mails, videos of me explaining the issue, etc) told me to connect those two to the "aux-out". I believe they meant the aux-out on my car stereo (nothing such exists on the Kenwood unit that the car came with). What i DID try was to connect the audio-out (that also comes out of the Android head unit) to the aux-in and then i actually got sound from my car CD/Radio. Problem with that was that it now came out mixed together with the audio from the Android unit.
To make matters worse, as soon as i exited the Android unit radio app, the sound from my CD stopped playing as well (so muted). Only if i had either my radio on (android) or if i played something from USB (mp3) the sound came through.
The seller then told me to launch the AVIN app as that would be the only way to make it work, which it did not. To top it all off, having it connected like this (even if i dropped the volume on the Android unit to 0) was causing this constant "hum" in my speakers so it was not practical at all.
So no, it was never solved and imho it never will be solved (unless possibly if you have some aux-out connectors available?)
Thanks for reply I was thinking along the same lines myself which is good, as my car has an aux in so I was going to see if I could find aux out and connect it, I will have a good try this week and keep you updated, which vehicle is your unit installed in by the way
Hi Mercedes-w204, i have a Subaru Legacy 2005 with a Kenwood (gx-201-LHF2) radio/CD unit (without aux)
I got in touch with the sellers and now they are telling me that a filter might help sorting out the issue, lets see where it all ends up
In general, these units are replacing stock audio altogether. It's not recommended to keep stock stereos period.
I would tend to agree with you, but the issue i have is that the stock radio is rock solid where this one leaves certain things to desire (it sometimes has static, mutes occationally, etc). Also, i would like to keep the CD available and basically use it for maps/nav, USB audio and BT (prefferably routed through the stock stereo).
my03 said:
I would tend to agree with you, but the issue i have is that the stock radio is rock solid where this one leaves certain things to desire (it sometimes has static, mutes occationally, etc). Also, i would like to keep the CD available and basically use it for maps/nav, USB audio and BT (prefferably routed through the stock stereo).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't it be easier to just use your Android phone then? But I see what you mean and fully agree with you, which is why I heavily mod these units - hardware and software alike.
You can improve the radio quality considerably, nearly to DAB level. The sound can also be improved to very hi-end output levels. Frankly, enough things can be improved in these units at a very low cost (provided you have the equipment and intermediate soldering skills). T give you an example, this is what I know is possible to achieve with these units:
Enhance sound to HIFI quality
Improve radio to close to DAB output quality
Improve wifi speed 10-20x times
Improve microphone by up to 5 times
Enhance the speed of the operating system by 50%
Reduced overheating by up to 200%
Stabilize the Android OS while adding endless tweaking options for UI, sound, and other functions
Wow. Yeah it would be needed imho as those areas (that you describe) could be improved. Anywhere where mods like these are described?
iceblue1980 said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just use your Android phone then? But I see what you mean and fully agree with you, which is why I heavily mod these units - hardware and software alike.
You can improve the radio quality considerably, nearly to DAB level. The sound can also be improved to very hi-end output levels. Frankly, enough things can be improved in these units at a very low cost (provided you have the equipment and intermediate soldering skills). T give you an example, this is what I know is possible to achieve with these units:
Enhance sound to HIFI quality
Improve radio to close to DAB output quality
Improve wifi speed 10-20x times
Improve microphone by up to 5 times
Enhance the speed of the operating system by 50%
Reduced overheating by up to 200%
Stabilize the Android OS while adding endless tweaking options for UI, sound, and other functions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Consider posting "how tos" - if the results are as good as the claims.
marchnz said:
Consider posting "how tos" - if the results are as good as the claims.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The instructions are available here and on 4PDA forums, to name a few. It would take me an insanely long time to put everything here. I have a daytime job and a family so, unfortunately, no time to do what you asked. I might add some How-To videos to my Youtube channel later on.