Hey guys. For the last 3 days i've been trying to fix my headphones (original AKG) and i've burned my fingers with the solder and wasted almost 1/16 pound of solder. So now im here to help anyone trying to fix their own headphones.
WIRE GUIDE:
GREEN - LEFT CHANNEL
RED - RIGHT CHANNEL
BLACK (2 wires) - VOLUME UP/ VOLUME DOWN
So here we go.
I bought 2 of these:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32821...ZVf&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite
One for the AKG headphones and one for an apple pair.
First things first, cut the wire as close as you can to the jack. Then get a razor blade and cut off about 1/2 inch of nylon braiding. Continue by using the razor blade to peel 3/4 inches of rubber shielding from the 1/2 that was taken off of the nylon braiding. Once that is done, separate the wires from the white nylon, once it is done, cut the white nylon.
Here comes the tricky part. You will have in your hands 5 wires.
One Red, which is wrapped by a copper wire (which is the ground for that particular speaker side)
One green, same as the red.
2 black wires. Which have volume up and volume down functionality. One of the black wires has a copper & black wire wrapped around it. These are 2 separate wires. The SUPER THIN BLACK is the common ground for both speakers.(It'll sound muffled if you dont conect it).
And last but not least one copper wire.
Take: The last copper wire, the SUPER THIN black wire, the copper wire that was wrapped around the red and green wires and join them. This is your common ground.
Soldering for the headphone jack linked above:
This is a TRRS jack (Tip, Ring, Ring, Sleeve)
The common ground gets soldered to the first ring on the jack. The red to the one above it, the green to the upper most tip and the 2 black wires go to the outter sleeve (little metal paddle to the side.
But wait there's more!
Original apple headphone wiring color:
Green - Left
Red - Right
Red/Copper - Right ground
Green/Copper - Left ground
Red/Green - Mic, Volume UP/DOWN
Thats all Folks!
Reserved
Here are some pictures of the finished product
Quick observation:
I was playing pubg with the headphones and noticed i was creating a ton of static through the MIC. I did heat up the replacement jack a lot so im inclined to believe i melted the inner plastic that separates the contacts.will have to test another headphone to see if this is the case.
Soldering tip: Do NOT heat up the item to be soldered for too long (3+ seconds) if your solder wont melt instantly after you touch it, either your solder is bad or the iron is too cold.
respect
Related
Anyone knowing how to remove the display from the motherboard?
Krischu said:
Anyone knowing how to remove the display from the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The answer: Just do it or dare to do 8)
Well, it's a bit nifty. Cautiously remove the copper foil with the black plastic under it. Pull the brown plastic handles (red arrows in my photo below) and pull out the small flat cable plugs.
When bending up the foil above the large display flat cable plug the brown
cover strip sticks to the foil. (Green arrow) Hold it down while pulling the foil up so that the
adhesive permanent glue looses grip of the plastic piece.
If the brown plastic strip is freed, flip it upright (it stays in the little white plastic teeth holding it. Then you can pull the display cable.
Putting it back together just requires putting the flat cable back into the slot, press down the brown plastic strip, put the other two small flat cables back and press down the copper foil.
Hello all. Yes I am a noob to the forum, but not to small electronics and the dismantling of them. After getting everything set up on my machine necessary to Root my TF and side load the netflix app, I noticed my power button wasn't being as responsive as it should. Doing a quick google search I found that this was a common thing, even on TFs with stock firmware, so I took to dismantling the thing to figure out what is causing it.
I did a quick search to see if anyone has cracked the case open and found this thread. I didn't use a guitar pick, but rather a plastic and metal spuder set I had from repairing my mom's ipod touch (damn soldered batteries!).
Tools:
Tool Kit
Or
A T5 Torx bit
A spudger
#0 Phillips screwdriver.
Lock-Tite super glue gel (optional!)
1. Start by removing the two T5 torx bits from both sides of the charging/dock port
2. Use the plastic spudger or guitar pick and loose the seam around the entire case. If you look closely at the face, you will see the glass meet a black plastic rim and then the metal rim around that. What you are aiming to do is separate the black plastic from the glass. The plastic is glued to the metal so if you see adhesive separating, you are prying the wrong spot. There are various plastic tabs around the glass like a TV remote so using the plastic spuder is safer until you get some visible room to go in with the metal one.
3. Once you have the frame off, there are 4 #0 Phillips screws on the face, one at each corner, then 3 screws on the top and bottom of the frame (previously under the metal case
4. Removing all 4 face screws plus 6 rail screws will allow you to remove the back plastic. Now you can see everything
5. Bonus points for ASUS for giving us a battery that unplugs vs one that is soldered in (damn you apple). If you want some peace of mind, you can pop off the battery cable. I did not see any side effects from doing this (no data loss, etc).
6. On the side with the power and volume buttons, you will see a blue-tipped silver cable under a black tab. This black tab is what holds the ribbon down and lifts up like a toilet seat. It does not pull forward, it does not pop off (unless you broke it), but because it is plastic, be gentle. Once the tab is lifted, the silver cable will come out.
7. Unscrew the 3 #0 Phillip screws holding down the button board for easier access remove it.
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It doesn't matter whether you are having a volume issue or power button issue, so long as you know its hardware related. The way these buttons work is under constant pressure is "off" and removing that pressure turns it "on". So the metal tab pushes down on the plastic button, which pushes down on the switch. What is happening is over time, that metal tab gives way to less pressure on the daisy chain and the button stops working. The good news is, this metal tab is just held on via 'wings' around the soldered base. A razer knife is enough to gently lift the wings to pop the assembly apart for repairing. Given the construction of these switches, I wish ASUS just made the entire board available, but oh well.
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8. With the offending metal cap off, bend the middle thumb further down and back in to position and re-assemble the switch.
9. (Optional). I bent my tab further in to prevent me from having to re-do this operation several months from now, but doing so meant that ANY pressure on the button caused the metal cap to pop back off. That is really bad if the case is re-assembled. My solution was to swab some lock-tite super glue gel on the bottom wings and base of the metal cap and put it back on the switch. A very thin film is sufficient because it is a gel, it dries in seconds. WARNING> Once you reassemble the switch, keep pressure on the metal cap while you keep pressing the black button. If you don't, any glue leakage will lock that button in place.
I purchased the wireless charging cover for my Droid 4, and two LG wireless charging pads for work/home. I can't stand the beep it makes when it begins charging.
I opened up one of the pads, hoping there was an obvious speaker with some wire leads I could cut, but it's not obvious to me what makes the beep. I've attached a picture of the board if anyone has any input. I'll update this if I figure something out.
Here's a guy that pulled a speaker off the PCB with pliers, but didn't describe which component.
The speaker is actually the large box at bottom-right. I ran a knife around the edges and pulled at it with some pliers, and the top of it came off like a cover, with some piece inside. The beep is no longer emitted without this piece.
at first i couldnt figure out how to remove the back but found the screws under the four rubber nubs.
I followed the directions on the amazon link posted and pulled the entire black box off from the circuit board!
I put the thing back together and it now charges silently. I really dont see how this thing ever left the design room after the prototype was made with that terrible beep sounds
Component PZ1 (Bottom Right on that picture) is the buzzer. The other black thing with glue around it (Reference L1 on the silkscreen) is an inductor, which is very likely to be part of the charging circuit or voltage regulation circuit, removing it would end in tears, as was the case with one of the guys on that Amazon page.
Also, I strongly recommend against yanking parts off PCBs with pliers. Depending on how strongly it's held on you could crack the circuit board or damage neighboring components. You really want to clean away that adhesive, being careful not to cut the PCB, and then use proper desoldering equipment (soldering iron and solder wick, hot air gun, etc.) to remove the speaker.
What's the best way to get the back cover off? I can't seem to rip the rubber nubs out.
Ok I got the back cover off, but I'm having a hard time taking off the screws that hold the circuit board to the back.
Little Green Robot said:
What's the best way to get the back cover off? I can't seem to rip the rubber nubs out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a hard time with mine as well
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Ok, I finally got sick of hearing that annoying beep. So I searched it and found this post. Did the deed and fixed it. Thanks for all the help.
Now, I would also like to find the notification sound that comes on when I place my phone on the pad.
If I turn my phone sound "off" it doesn't make the sound (obviously). But I have gone through all the settings to try to find where I can switch it off permanently.
Unfortunately I can't find it. I thought it would have been under Settings/accessory/Dock Sound but that was not it. Does anyone know how to turn off this notification???
I couldn't find any instructions for how to deal with replacing the LCD screen/digitizer on a Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th generation device where the motherboard is a little different than previous generations. So I wrote up some instructions to help the next person who needs to replace the screen.
I bought the replacement screen by S-Union on Amazon.
There are two YouTube videos I recommend watching: one on how to replace the screen for Kindle Fire 7 https://youtu.be/_zaQVY2wu58 (I couldn't find one for Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th gen and this was a good enough overview.... any that show how to remove the glass screen are fine) and how to remove the motherboard for Kindle Fire 8 HD 8th gen https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4.
So here's what I did:
1. Remove the back cover. Use the plastic pry tool or guitar pick to wedge in between the side edge of the Kindle Fire and unsnap the back cover.
2. On the backside, carefully disconnect the battery by taking a flat head screwdriver and gently lifting upwards towards your face. The cable you're wanting to remove has little red and white wires and connects to the motherboard at the bottom of the Kindle Fire. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=90
3. Remove the broken glass on the front. I borrowed a heat gun from a neighbor, but I think I could have just as easily used a hair dryer. I used the heat gun to loosen up the glue around the edges and pry off the old glass with one of the plastic prying tools that came with this kit. I put packing tape over the glass to keep it together. I would recommend wearing rubber gloves, gardening gloves, or oyster gloves to keep from cutting your hands. It takes patience. After removing the glass, you can clean-up any extra pieces of glass and adhesive that get left behind.
4. There's a cable that goes from the LCD screen/digitizer to the motherboard on the back. It's OK if it comes apart in pieces. On the motherboard, there's a 1 cm black square that connects to the LCD screen/digitizer. First, you'll need to remove the yellowish tape covering it and the little ribbon cable. Next, you'll need to unplug the little ribbon cable by pulling the cable out towards the 1 cm black square. Next, take a flat head screw driver and scrape off the black square. It's just lightly glued to the motherboard. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=156
5. Back on the front, stick only one side of the white double-sided tape adhesive to the edges where the new glass will attach. Later, we'll pull off the top side of the double-sided tape with tweezers so that the glass will stay down.
6. Next, you'll need to remove the motherboard so that the ribbon cable and 1 cm black square from the new LCD screen/digitizer can pass through the Kindle Fire (from front of device to the back). There are four little phillip screws (similar to eyeglass screws) that need to be removed which attach the motherboard to the Kindle Fire. One screw may be covered by a little "S" sticker. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=53
7. Once the screws are out of the motherboard, you can take a flat head screw driver and pop out the motherboard. Wedge the flat head screw driver towards the edge where the volume and power buttons are and gently press up. Other than the battery and the little ribbon cable for the LCD screen/digitizer, you do not need to disconnect any wires as in the motherboard replacement video. See here: https://youtu.be/LLujM6w3CA4?t=214
8. When the motherboard is loose, just pull it back and pass the cable from the LCD screen/digitizer through the hole where the old ribbon cable went through for the LCD screen/digitizer from the front. Once it's through, you can gently snap the motherboard back into place and put the four phillips screws back in.
9. Practice plugging in the little ribbon cable from the 1 cm black square. It slides in like a plug (there are six pins on top and bottom and they will hold the little ribbon cable in place). Once you see how to reattach the ribbon cable, you can remove it, pull the tape off of the bottom of the 1 cm black square, attach the 1 cm black square to the motherboard, and then plug the little ribbon cable back into the motherboard.
10. Back on the front of the Kindle Fire, remove the top layers of the two-sided tape, remove the plastic film from the rear-side of the LCD screen/digitizer, and push the screen into place.
11. Plug the battery back in. If you bent any pins while removing the power cable, you may be able to gently straighten them with your finger or a flat head screw driver.
12. You can carefully attempt to power on the Kindle Fire by plugging it in or holding down the power button. Please don't touch the back while doing this as you might short out the device and get a nasty shock. If the device powers on, you should hear the start-up beep and see the Amazon logo on the screen. You now know your screen replacement attempt has been successful! If it doesn't power on, you will want to check the connection from the battery to the motherboard and any other cables.
13. If everything worked, power down the device, unplug it, snap on the back cover, and remove the clear plastic film from the front of the glass. Congratulations!
Hello, have a YT9216CH. Heres what I got going on.
Scroll down for FM Static fix
1. In order to get bass to truly work I have to go into factory settings-usb settings- then go to each bass-alto-Treble then back out to home . Then up to to the 2 lines and close all the tabs except what ever audio source I'm using. If I change Audio source ( like radio to Pandora, or YouTube ect) I have to do it all again. Anyway to avoid this?
2. Tried to hook up a Performance Teknique tv Module threw RCA but when I open the AUXIN app the screen stays black. Did try a few play store opinions ( Airtv, DVB-T, DVB-T2, TVLive) as well as a few others. All the same outcome " No Device Connected " . Even tried just opening a media player ( VLC, Android Media, Media Player still no joy.
I did figure out a way to correct the horrible static from FM Radio Reception.
Remove the board from the housing. Where the antenna plugs into the board look at the underside. You will see 3 solder joints that hold the antenna socket in place ( also the antenna ground) as well as a smaller joint in the center with a small hole ( that hole is where the Antenna connector from car gets the its positive signal) Resolder the 3 base connections ( grounds) of the antenna socket. Also Resolder the center smaller joint ( be sure not to put to much solder where the center pin of the antenna otherwise the antenna wont fit) Now with a drill bit just larger then the current holes ( I used a step bit ) make the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack threw hole 1 size larger. Lastly using some heat shrink, slide over the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack and shrink. ( I tried electrical tape, Did make it better but for me still had static) once i used think heat shrink. 90-95% of the static was gone.
The Frequency leak on these devices are crazy.
My unit does still get some static when i turn my A/C converter on.
What do you mean? statically receiving FM radio? where are they drilling a hole and putting a heat shrink? can you upload photos? well thank you
dodo6 said:
What do you mean? statically receiving FM radio? where are they drilling a hole and putting a heat shrink? can you upload photos? well thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More details, as well as pictures added. Sorry. Haven't taken mine back apart yet. Still waiting for the sdcard/sim card socket to arrive in the mail so I can solder those on.
JohnM81 said:
I did figure out a way to correct the horrible static from FM Radio Reception.
Remove the board from the housing. Where the antenna plugs into the board look at the underside. You will see 3 solder joints that hold the antenna socket in place ( also the antenna ground) as well as a smaller joint in the center with a small hole ( that hole is where the Antenna connector from car gets the center pin ) Resolder the 3 base connections ( grounds) of the antenna socket. Also Resolder the center smaller joint ( be sure not to put to much solder where the center pin of the antenna wont fit) Now with a drill bit just larger then the current holes ( I used a step bit ) make the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack threw hole 1 size larger. Lastly using some heat shrink, slide over the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack and shrink. ( I tried electrical tape, Did make it better but for me still had static) once i used think heat shrink. 90-95% of the static was gone.
The Frequency leak on these devices are crazy.
My unit does still get some static when i turn my A/C converter on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FM radio antenna socket
Drill the center hole where the car antenna plug's center plugs into? Doesn't that stripe away the metal for the connection? Or are you trying to drill away the plastic between center and outer metal sleeve so the antenna plug can insert in deeper? (mine doesn't plug in very deep)
GPS antenna socket
The center hole is tiny and outer ground is threaded on connector. Kind of like a smaller cable coax connector. What needs to be drilled here and why? Seems like it should make very good contact.
howardc64 said:
FM radio antenna socket
Drill the center hole where the car antenna plug's center plugs into? Doesn't that stripe away the metal for the connection? Or are you trying to drill away the plastic between center and outer metal sleeve so the antenna plug can insert in deeper? (mine doesn't plug in very deep)
GPS antenna socket
The center hole is tiny and outer ground is threaded on connector. Kind of like a smaller cable coax connector. What needs to be drilled here and why? Seems like it should make very good contact
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look closely both the fm antenna socket as well as the gps jack touch the outer rear casing. Which is grounding out the signals. You are drilling the outer case holes so there not touching the jack/socket. I circled and labeled in the pictures. Your NOT drilling anything on the board. Only the back case.
JohnM81 said:
If you look closely both the fm antenna socket as well as the gps jack touch the outer rear casing. Which is grounding out the signals. You are drilling the outer case holes so there not touching the jack/socket. I circled and labeled in the pictures. Your NOT drilling anything on the board. Only the back case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I see, drilling holes in the rear aluminum casing/heat sink to avoid touching antenna plugs+connectors. Thanks!
howardc64 said:
Oh I see, drilling holes in the rear aluminum casing/heat sink to avoid touching antenna plugs+connectors. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.
The center of the antenna socket has pretty weak solder. Adding a bit thicker or just alittle more solder seems to help ALOT