CPU upgeade / replacement musings - Galaxy Note 4 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I'm working on reviving a dead Note at the moment and so I'm looking at making a JTAG as it really doesn't want to come back to life. Various videos I watched got me thinking...
I wonder how difficult it would be to upgrade the CPU?
What matters is the pinout of the chip. After two hours of searching I've been unable to find the datasheet to give me the details on the snapdragon 805.
Getting the old one off with a heat gun would be no problem. Putting the new one on would probably require a reflow oven (which I happen to be buying anyway) and baking the old chip at close to 100° for a day or two to dry it out so it does not explode when heated above 100° (3 mins at 265° to reflow solder the new chip).
The new CPU has its own RAM (preferably one with more than 3GB) but could be matched with new cameras.
The Kernel would need to be modified to have the new features. Probably it would be best to take an off the shelf one from for example Note 7 source code and build in the Note 4 stuff needed. That would then get programmed into the flash with a JTAG programmer. But there is very little which is not on the CPU itself beyond SD card reader, sim card reader, wacom digitiser and antenna. Its basically just a power supply (battery and voltage control chips) flash chip, screen and USB connected peripherals.
Basically pick the best camera and camera and CPU combination where the CPU has the identical pin layout of the Snapdragon 805.
That should get it to the point of having a bootable phone with new CPU. It might need also a custom built ROM to go with the custom modified board.
So can anyone show me links to the Snapdragon 805 and newer chips?
If there is a pin replacement chip for the 805 then we could upgrade our beloved battery replaceable phones.
Otherwise it's just a lovely pipedream

Related

Archos 101 RAM upgrade.. research so far

I have been using my Archos 101 tablet for a few months now, I quite like it, and have tried a few of the different android builds available to download. I am keen to try and upgrade the ram, as 256MB is not alot. This is the progress I have made so far, I hope that maybe other people can add to it. First step is to find a suitable ram module that has the same pinouts, and specs, but with larger capacity. The ram module is marked "OVA18 D9LBZ". Using Microns FBGA decoder We find that the full part number of the ram module is "MT46H64M32LFMA-6 IT:A". If we go to microns list of available low power DDR modules we can see that there are available a 512MB and a 1GB version. (note that they are listed in megabits, not megabytes, so the original 256 megabyte module is a "2gb" size, 512MB is "4gb" and 1GB is "8gb")
I am in the UK, and havent yet found a uk supplier, but I found the 1GB module available in the US for about 50 US dollars.
I dont know what the max ram limit of the cpu is, I have read somewhere that the OMAP3630 cpu can support max 1GB, but cant remember where.
Im my mind there are two further problems once the chip has been bought:
1. physically removing the old ram module and fitting the new one. my plan is to setup a spring with one end glued/fixed somehow to the top of the old ram module, and then put the mainboard in the oven, and once the solder melts the spring will pull the ram chip off. Or it might pull the ram chip and the cpu at the same time. Then put tiny bits of solder on all the pins of the new ram module, align it ontop of the cpu, maybe under slight pressure, and put it back in the oven and hope that all of the solder joints connect properly. Quite a few of the pins are not used, so we can get away with 1 or 2 pins not connected. One concern I have is that in the spec sheet alot of the pins are labelled NC for not connected, but several have DNU which I take to mean "do not use". If these end up connected aswell then will this work or not. Another idea is instead of soldering the new chip on, we could polish the pins on the cpu really smooth and also polish the pins on the ram chip, and build a clip/holder type device, it might be possible to run the system with the ram chip just held under pressure on the cpu. We would need to stop the chip moving sideways also.
2. There may be a firmware issue with the new ram module, the system may not recognize the ram chip at all, or only address 256MB of it, because that is what its expecting to be there. I have seen a tutorial on upgrading the ram on an xbox and this is the problem they had, the new ram runs fine but only the original amount that was installed can be used without significant software changes. Hopefully archos have not made it too difficult for us.
These are my thoughts so far, I hope we can make some progress, or at least work out why it cant be done before destroying any hardware. I have links to the FBGA decoder, microns list of lp ddr chips, and the supplier of the 1GB chip, but as this is my first post I am not allowed to post links yet! PM me and I will send you the links.
Hi! Scholbert is good in this staff ask him . Bye
Sent from my A70H firmware 2.4.82 root oc 1.1GHz using Tapatalk
To be able to support bigger memory both memory controller of OMAP and pcb itself MUST have additional address lines. I almost sure that OMAP has at least 512MB support but not sure if Archos did preparation for bigger memory chip on board.
Also replacing of memory BGA chip not so simple and may cost more than new tablet
I am hoping that the larger memory chips still use the same interface, and therefore the same pin layout as the 256MB chip, as the link for the datasheet for 512MB and 1GB modules is the same as for the 256MB chip. So I dont think any additional data lines are needed.
Yes im sure your right, buying a later tablet will have larger ram module as standard, but I just like to tinker with things
Wikipedia list a few phones that use the omap 3630 cpu, and therefore probably use a ram module soldered ontop as in the archos. The motorola cliq 2 has 512MB of ram, as does the palm pre 2, the nokia n9 has 1GB ram but is a fairly new phone and still expensive to buy. I am going to looking out for a damaged mobile (cracked screen etc) and hope that the ram module is intact.
PPCtech did such an upgrade for the venerable HP hx4700, for $130 including material and shipment.
You'll need rework equipment (special kind of heat gun, not that expensive ($60 is the cheapest)), in an oven you'll probably kill components that were added later on (audio jack etc) and can't stand heat.
If you have the right equipment, it's not that hard to do. You'll heat the RAM chip till you can gently pull it off. Then you'll clean the PCB of solder residue. Next you put on solder paste using a BGA screen made for the chip you want to use.
Then you put the new RAM ic in the correct position (using a microscope to align it correctly), and locally heat it using the heat gun.
Then you pray it worked, or retry (best with a new RAM chip, but they can stand quite some heat, so reusing should be possible).
Problem is that you don't know for sure it could work, thus it's unclear if the error was in the soldering or in the firmware....
Sweet project! Any updates?

Changing Graphic Card galaxy mini

Hey developers,
Today i'm thinking if Samsung can
change the Adreno 200 of the SGM
S5570. Who beliefs in that ?
Hope Samsung will rebuild a new sgm
with a newer and smoother graphic card.
Greetings,Steexyl
There is no swappable graphics "card" in a phone.
Impossible.
On all smartphones I am aware of (all ARM Android ones for sure), the GPU is part of the same chip as the CPU.
The ONLY way you might be able to do an upgrade is if you are able to find a pin-compatible CPU upgrade.
e.g. Exynos 4210 ->4412 is theoretically possible, but completely impractical since it requires soldering a whole new BGA AND obtaining a bare 4412 somehow.
Utopia
I think it's impossible,but you can buy a better phone with larger screen for less than 200€
Is imposibile i think !
As everyone said, impossible.
Practically impossible . It would simply be better to buy a new phone .

Upgrade Nokia 6 TA-1000's CPU

Hi guys. I have a snapdragon 600 CPU. I am just wondering if it works if I replace the 430 in TA-1000 with this CPU? Would the hardware supports? I mean, you know for example we can't just replace an Intel Q6600 with an i5 because motherboard won't support it. Is it the same situation on smart phones? I never worked on smart phones. So please if someone could share any experience? Thanks guys!
Marsnomonkey said:
Hi guys. I have a snapdragon 600 CPU. I am just wondering if it works if I replace the 430 in TA-1000 with this CPU? Would the hardware supports? I mean, you know for example we can't just replace an Intel Q6600 with an i5 because motherboard won't support it. Is it the same situation on smart phones? I never worked on smart phones. So please if someone could share any experience? Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are talking about changing "heart".. on humans it is working in some instances (luckily where no s/w needed :laugh.. but machines need s/w to cope with h/w.. so, until unless you are able to let machine know that you changed his heart (cpu), it won't work..
This is the dumbest question I have ever seen in my entire life.
1) What do you mean you have a snapdragon 600 cpu? Thats not possible. Do you work at Qualcomm and you somehow managed to smuggle a single chip back home from their factories? Did you rip a motherboard from an old phone?
2) The chip is soldered onto the motherboard. Good luck desoldering it without destroying the board.
3) I doubt that the pin layout of the 430 is the same as 600.
4) Its highly unlikely that the other chips like gpu, fingerprint sensor are compatible with your snapdragon 600. Even if they are its going to require a lot of coding to get them to work.
5) The 430 is much better than the 600.
If you really want a nokia 6 with a snapdragon 600 then just buy a nokia 6, completely gut it until nothing is left except the shell, buy a complete motherboard with snapdragon 600 and all the other components and place your motherboard with the other components in your empty nokia. You might have to use a saw, tape and glue to get everything neatly in your nokia.
What you are proposing will end in failure.

[Nexus 7] Feasibility of replacing or upgrading Hynix HTC2G83CFR DDR3 RAM

Hi!
Having dug my old Google Nexus 7 2012 out of storage and found it both working and happy in terms of battery lifetime I let my mind wander towards fixing what I consider the main flaw with the device: Its 1 GB of system RAM.
Now, I have my fair share of microsoldering and idle work in BGA soldering and the like but my software hardware is far more lacking. I already know that the Nexus I have holds 4 x Hynix 2Gb HTC2G83CFR DDR3L RAM and the datasheets for it these are fortunately available, I also know that the Tegra T30L chipset supports up to 2GB of RAM. The closest I've been able to scrape together sofar are Hynix 4Gb H5TC4G43MFR but these use 78ball FBGA and 96ball FBGA, but atleast I'm on the right track in finding older chips...
This is where I run into the software knowledge lack; Simply finding fitting chips to replace the old ones and successfully soldering those on will not neccesarily just work out of the box? Depending on the kernel it might detect and make use of the new chips but it might also not.
Am I right in assuming that there will be a need for software side hacking to accomodate the upgrade?
On a sidenote I also found Daniel Sauvageau's musings on doing the exact same thing back in 2016 but there are no follow-ups to it. He does raise a concerning potential roadblock in his article on the matter:
"Find out, preferably in a non-destructive way, whether A15 is actually routed from the SoC to the DRAM BGAs. Without A15, I would need DDR3L DRAM that has 2KB pages instead of the typical 1KB ones found in all eight-bit-wide chips I have looked at. If neither are possible, then this idea is as good as dead"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any thoughts, ideas or inputs are welcome!
(Yes, I am aware that this is neither particularly economical nor for the faint of heart lacking a decent way to reball BGA)

Beginner's guide to building a PC: everything you know and don't already know!

When I saw the topic of a beginner's guide to building a PC, I jumped for it because I remember building my first PC. It actually wasn't nearly as long ago as you'd think. I also remember how clueless I was. Obviously, I know about everything that goes inside of a computer, but once I was faced with the task of putting all of that together, I was like a deer in headlights.
Prerequisites​Let's start off with a list of everything that you're going to need:
CPU
Thermal paste
Motherboard
CPU cooler
Case
Power supply
RAM
Storage
GPU (optional unless you have an Intel F-series processor)
An operating system
And then, of course, don't forget about the necessary peripherals:
Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speakers
Webcam
External peripherals are beyond the scope of this post, but take note of what you need, keeping in mind that the PC you're building doesn't have the built-in parts of an all-in-one PC, like a microphone, speakers, and a webcam.
How to get started or: Pick a CPU​First of all, and I cannot stress this enough, PCPartPicker is your friend. The site lets you plug in a list of parts that you're planning on using and it will tell you if there are any compatibility issues. It's super useful. In fact, even if you know that your parts should be good to go, run them through PCPartPicker anyway just to make sure.
The other key thing you need to do when getting started is to pick a CPU. This is an important first step because you're pretty much building out the PC around this choice. There aren't any motherboards that support both Intel and AMD CPUs.
Choosing between AMD and Intel (see, I didn't put the same company first twice in a row so you guys can't yell at me) is the first step. Once you do that, you can decide what kind of performance that you need. I wrote a guide to Intel CPUs and what the product names mean. With AMD, you have Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, and Ryzen 9, and performance goes according to how high that number is. The same goes with Intel and the Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, and Core i9.
Intel has a bunch of different suffixes. If there isn't one, it's a standard 65W desktop processor, so something like a Core i5-11600 is pretty mainstream. Add a K and it's now a 125W processor that's unlocked for overclocking. And as mentioned above, an F means that it does not have integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.
Pick a motherboard, or a case, or both​Next, you have to pick a motherboard and a case. I'm including both in this section because it's a matter of priorities. Do you want a case that fits your motherboard or a motherboard that fits your case? If you already know what case you want to use, start there and find motherboards that work. If not, start with a motherboard that has what you want.
First, let's cut your motherboard choices in half. If you're using AMD Ryzen, you need an AM4 socket. In you're using Intel 10th- or 11th-gen, you need an LGA 1200 socket. Note that with Intel, 12th-gen will use a new socket, so this is not upgradeable.
Next, you have to pick the size of your motherboard, and this is where compatibility with the case comes in. There's eATX, ATX, mATX, and mini-ITX, all in size order. This very much comes down to how big of a PC you want to build. Looking for something that's super-small and can hide behind your monitor? That's where mini-ITX comes in. Want something big and beefy that's going to have some serious power and thermals? Go for eATX.
When picking a case, it will tell you what size board it can fit. Obviously, the CPU, motherboard, and case choices go hand in hand.
Now that you've narrowed down your motherboard choices to the socket and the size, you're in good shape. It's time to start looking at ports, PCIe slots, and more. Make sure that you've got the ports to plug in what you need and the latest USB standard. Make sure you've got enough memory slots. A big one is the graphics card you want to use. Make sure there's room for it not only on the board, but in the case.
Pick a CPU cooler and thermal paste​Now, it's time to figure out how you're going to keep that CPU cool. Here's the bottom line. The more your CPU heats up, the worse the performance gets. The cooler you can keep it, the more it can sustain peak performance.
The first thing that you have to choose between is air cooling and liquid cooling, and there are pros and cons to each. Air coolers can be easier to install and more cost-effective, but if you want a good one, they take up a lot of space. Liquid cooling can be better if you plan on doing a lot of overclocking.
Personally, I'm a big fan of air coolers from Noctua. I use a Noctua NH-U12A, which is not only designed to be one of the best air coolers around, but it's quiet too.
So, after you decide if you want liquid or air cooling, you then have to looking at how cool it keeps the CPU and also how much noise it makes. That noise is important.
Then there's the thermal paste, which sits between the CPU and the CPU cooler. The more evenly it's applied, the better the cooling. Many CPU coolers, like the one I mentioned above from Noctua, come with thermal paste. You can always shop around though. A tube of thermal paste costs under $10, so using the best one there is should be an easy way to keep your CPU cool.
Pick a power supply and a GPU​As you can see, a lot of these parts go hand in hand. In fact, once you've put this all together, you'll find that they all go hand in hand. But we can't talk about the power supply without picking a GPU.
Picking a GPU is optional. Like I said, you might want a simple productivity machine with a Core i5 and integrated graphics. You also might want a gaming rig with an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090. And then there's everything in-between.
With that in mind, you need to pick a power supply. This is an area that you'd definitely be well-off to use PCPartPicker for. It will tell you the wattage of all of the parts you've picked so far, and then tell you if there are any compatibility issues with you pick a power supply. I'd suggest picking one with plenty of wattage to spare so you can upgrade down the line.
Another thing is that you should definitely get a modular PSU (power supply unit). That means that the power cables aren't attached to the PSU itself. You can add cables as you need to, and since you're a builder now, you're probably going to need to at some point.
The other thing that's important is efficiency. You'll see an 80 PLUS rating that can be Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, or Titanium. This is important, because it's based on how much power is lost due to heat.
RAM, storage, and OS​If you've made it this far, you're in good shape. This is the easy part.
With RAM, you want more, and you want faster. It's that simple. You can also look up how fast of memory your CPU supports and go for that. The same goes for storage. An M.2 SSD is the way to go if you can, but there are also SATA SSDs. You can get an HDD if you're on a really tight budget, but I don't recommend it.
As far as the OS goes, it's between Windows and Linux. Windows costs money; Linux doesn't. I'm not really here to tell you which one you should go for.
Putting it all together​Alright, you've got all of your parts and you're ready to build your dream PC! It's the second-most exciting feeling behind the first boot.
Most of this is going to be about plugging things in where they fit, but sadly, it's not that simple. You need to start working through the manuals that came with your motherboard and your case. Those are going to tell you exactly what to plug in where, and most of it is fairly straightforward. There are few things that will actually break if you do them wrong.
The one thing that will break if you do it wrong is installing the CPU in the motherboard. It's important not to apply any unnecessary pressure when doing this because you could bend the pins on the chip or the board (depending on who made the CPU). Damage one of those and you've got some very expensive paperweights very quickly. To be clear, there's nothing to be afraid of here and it's very easy to do. Practice some healthy caution and you'll be fine.
Installing the motherboard in the case is something you'll need to follow instructions to do, which is fine, as it's easy enough. Once it's screwed into place, there will be several cables in the case that have to plug into the board. These will be for fans built into the case, for additional USB ports, and so on.
The other thing you'll have to install in the case is the PSU. Read the instructions and make sure the fan in the PSU is facing the right way. This is not something that you want to do incorrectly. There are a few cables to plug into the case and the board. Once the GPU is installed, you'll have to plug that in too.
Next, you'll probably be installing the CPU cooler. Make sure to apply thermal paste before you do. A pea-sized dot right in the middle of the CPU will do it. Do your best to bring the cooler directly down on the CPU, rather than doing it from an angle. This will spread it evenly across the chip.
Obviously, the graphics card, the storage, and RAM can fit into their respective slot. Note that for most boards, if you have four RAM slots and you only have two RAM sticks, you're better off separating them by one slot for dual-channel memory.
Once that's all done, you should be ready to plug it in and boot it up. You might not want to close the case on first-run, so you can make sure all of the fans are spinning. You can plug your USB drive with the OS into a USB port and boot into it to install the operating system.
Something went wrong!​Well, you've made it this far and now something doesn't work. Isn't that always the way it goes?
The most common problem is probably that you pressed the power button and nothing happened. After all, if the thing that went wrong is that you broke something, you should just buy a new one.
If it's not booting, now it's time to start checking cables. Make sure that everything is plugged in securely, particularly the CPU cooler. Make sure that the PSU cables are plugged in at both ends. If there were any steps you weren't sure about, such as if you plugged something in in the right spot, revisit it.
If you just can't figure it out, come back here and ask for help.
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
svetius said:
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TBH CPU is always important. But RAM should definitely be a priority.
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Insanenity said:
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's XMP?
svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) is a technology that allows you to change memory settings by selecting a different profile, which takes advantage of higher than standard memory speeds. Simply stated, XMP is the "easy button" of RAM overclocking, as manual RAM overclocking can be an unnecessary headache!
svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM over 2400Mhz is overclocked. X.M.P is just a system to overclock your ram. It's standard now. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything over 3600Mhz as it gets too pricey for the performance. Go no lower than 2666, try for 3200 (this tends to be the cheaper one anyways). I believe you will need to enable X.M.P in your uefi when you install it otherwise you'll just be running 2400. Like Insanenity said, it's just a 1 click setup so there's no fuss.
If you're not focused on gaming; while 16GB is fine, if you find a 32GB kit in your budget than definitely get it. Get a fair CPU with over 6 cores. (so ryzen).
LTT just did a video on something that might interest you.
This could be a good option for your productivity build as it's bang for buck. But if you have the budget for R7 5000's than just go for that.
Tldr: Chrome is a ram and cpu whore, use firefox...
I'm kidding, invest in CPU and RAM more than others if chrome is your concern.
p.s. Feel free to ask questions
strongst said:
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Stransky said:
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
strongst said:
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
HipKat said:
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
strongst said:
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
HipKat said:
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
strongst said:
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll go look again when I get a break, but I'm pretty sure you're correct about it being the founders edition

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