Hey guys, I am generally very pleased with X10 camera, but so far i was unable to find any explanation about camera modes. So far I had been using normal and night landscape only, cause i dont what other are for. I've seen people using Beach and snow mode for low light images etc, and results were quite fine.
So is there anyone here, who can explain things about modes, more from technical side like: shutter speed, ISO values and things like that? I think it will be usefull for everyone here.
Thanks
hibiskus said:
Hey guys, I am generally very pleased with X10 camera, but so far i was unable to find any explanation about camera modes. So far I had been using normal and night landscape only, cause i dont what other are for. I've seen people using Beach and snow mode for low light images etc, and results were quite fine.
So is there anyone here, who can explain things about modes, more from technical side like: shutter speed, ISO values and things like that? I think it will be usefull for everyone here.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, I am currently using the "touch mode" I could use the "normal" mode before. But for whatever reasons, couldn't use it
The sport mode is for capturing images of things moving, beach and snow mode is for pictures taken at the beach or outside in the snow. party says it self, landscape is for pictures taken fx a mountain
Well, more important than those modes is:
- use the EV compensation.
go with it minus one or two steps and keep the sun behind you.
also, lowering the EV helps in low light too because will reduce the ISO.
ofcourse, in low light you will need better hands
- another very very important thing is: metering modes.
for macro images use spot (also use spot if you have most of the image around your object with one color: ex. a kid in the snow. in this case camera will do the metering where your focus point is ... the kid ... so the kid will be "better exposed").
use average for landscapes and other "wide" images ....
center ... well, for close stuff.
- do not enable image stabilization.
trust your hands
the camera on X10 is compressing the images way too much so, they become soft.
image stabilization will make them even more soft than that.
What i don't like about the X10 camera is the focus.
I have no idea how is choosing the focus point(s) so, i decided the camera app is crap.
I started to use vignette but is slow as a pig riding a donkey so, i moved on.
Camera360 is working fine.
You have time to wait for the pic to be saved and you know you won't loose a good shot?
Vignette is better. Better quality and best focus from this 3 apps.
Camera 360?
Focus almost as good as vignette.
Quality almost as good as vignette but if you zoom a little you can see the difference.
Speed? A Ferrari vs. Ford Focus (not RS ) if you compare it with Vignette
Hope this helps.
The notes camera is by far the best I've had on a phone. There are plenty of camera apps out there that supposedly improves the camera. I'm no camera expert so I need input from someone who is. Do any of these apps really improve the camera or just add effects?
The ones I've heard are the best are camera 360 and vignette. Anyway, input will be appreciated
Thanks guys
Sent from da BEST
NOW IS SURE...there are somecamera HARDWARE fault component on Note ....
veeeeeeeery few...but we are .....
no good focus...no decent quality....
the problem is of few of us.....so...it does NOT exist,....
i am sorry....
I know some had issues but I was curious if any apps were worth getting
From the Best : Galaxy Note
Just plain NO, I've tried them all the stock is the best but not sharp enough.
Depends on what you want to do.
If you are looking for effects:
1. Camera 360 : it's free now, so do try, only it will not scale up to the screen size and may crash half the time, check color-shift and tikt-shift effects
2. Picsay: this is not a camera app, but has more effects than any camera app out there
If you are looking for features:
1. Photaf Panorama
2. Time lapse for Android
Most camera apps are crappy and only apply post-process filters.
Stock camera is very good.
If you need some extra features 360 camera, and for HDR photo - HDR Camera+.
What exactly is hdr?
From the Best : Galaxy Note
Just search for High dynamic range imaging in Wikipedia (I can't post links yet) Basically it makes pictures more lifelike by shooting several and combining them in a way that makes the dark areas dark and the bright areas bright.
I'd like to know if someone has Camera 360 working properly? I was using it for several days without any problems and then suddenly it started crashing if the phone is in portrait mode or not running in full screen in landscape mode.
Stock camera is the best for all tasks.
SsTE said:
Just search for High dynamic range imaging in Wikipedia (I can't post links yet) Basically it makes pictures more lifelike by shooting several and combining them in a way that makes the dark areas dark and the bright areas bright.
I'd like to know if someone has Camera 360 working properly? I was using it for several days without any problems and then suddenly it started crashing if the phone is in portrait mode or not running in full screen in landscape mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean it ever did run fullscreen on note?
Had a little bit of free-time so decided to do a simple test. What differences does the different camera modes provide in Low-Light?
Here is the album for the pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/iFc9Keoh9um1beks5
All shots were handheld, 8MP 16:9, landscape orientation. Unfortunately, I don't really have a DSLR sample for comparison but you can take my word that there wasn't much light (among the shots, SA and Handheld Twilight are closest to how dark the scene actually was but in reality, it was still a bit darker). On to the analysis:
Superior Auto - Night-Scene detected, NO tripod icon Even though it selected Night-Scene, it still seemed to select a rather high-ISO in this case, making it quite useless. How do you get the Tripod icon to appear when handheld? Do you have any tips for that or how long I have to wait for it to appear?
Manual Mode (ISO Auto, Metering Multi, Single Auto-Focus) - based on many observations, ISO in Manual mode generally is 1/2 of the ISO that is selected for Superior Auto. Most of the time I shoot stuff in this setting. Curiously, did anybody notice that the "Image Stabilizer" option disappeared?
Night Portrait - based on observations, seems to select a balance of the lowest ISO it could get with the slowest shutter-speed it can have to have a balanced exposure of the scene WITHOUT motion blur. This in contrast to the Night Scene mode.
Night Scene - based on observations, seems to prioritize getting the lowest ISO it can and slowest shutter-speed to get the best exposure BUT the main difference with Night Portrait is it does not care about motion blur! And yes, the shutter speed it selected was almost 1 sec but I have to be honest, it really took me quite a few tries to get that clear a shot without motion blur. You might also notice some wonky focus on the right-side.
Handheld Twilight - not really sure what this does but to me seems to perform like HDR? Takes a couple of pics then stitches them together to preserve detail? If you compare to the Superior Auto shot, it seems to have more detail in comparison (e.g. the frame with etched words).
Is there a best scene for shooting? I think it would depend on what you want to prioritize. For me, I would probably leave it in Manual / Night Portrait for general shooting and put it in Night-Scene mode for landscape shots. Lack of OIS is sad but not a deal-breaker for me, just have to be more patient and practice having steady hands to get that good shot.
Hope this have helped you and please feel free to add any information as needed!
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
Timaustin2000 said:
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish I could tell you, lol. Tuck your elbows in against your ribs - that helps. If you can, lean your elbows on a arm rest or lean against a wall. You just need to be as steady as possible but it's tricky to do.
One tip; half pressing the camera key re-sets Superior Auto when released. If you do this a few times, it means that the mode is more active in looking for changes in exposure and behaviour and may help it come up quicker.
Once it does come up, half press and hold it and it should lock the mode so that you can find your focal point and take the shot.
Hope this helps.
I would add from myself the best results especially in detail are available throght Maual Mode 8mpx.
The autofocus is fast, low manual ISO and the usage of white balance gives really detailed pics even in low light.
It's also good to use tap-to-focus and consciously use light metering.
---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tripod appears actually only when the phone is set on a completely stable surface/stand.
Otherwise the phone detects any movement. Which is logical.
Thanks both for the helpful tips! Can't wait to try out and do my best to practice my 'tripod mode' Btw, what metering do you leave your phone at?
I've found to get tripod to appear reliably, shoot either while sitting or leaning/braced on something. I found it was the body swaying, and not the hands, that was causing most of the movement for me. If the tripod icon does not at first appear, take an initial shot in SA (without tripod icon), and it should then appear for the next shot.
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow didn't know that before. Might be interesting to have a play around with those settings when I get the chance!
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting,.. but I've never once managed to get it to produce usable results.
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
Barthlon said:
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am totally for Manual 8mpx.
Just because in real low light it's more crisp than 23mpx.
Other than that Manual 23mpx is great.
I can bring up the tripod quite consistently after the first shot (it keeps showing all those running, walking icons first time due to almost unavoidable initial motions).. Thanks to some helpful tips here, I'll have to try to get it up before the first shot.
One off-topic tip that could be pretty convenient. I'm pretty sure most of the Xperia shooters already know this. I leave the camera in my fav. manual mode (basically favorite ISO/res. & everything else set to auto or you could just pick a scene mode). I launch the camera using the awesome shutter button to get to auto mode directly. I tap the icon to launch the camera only when I need to get directly to my favorite manual 'preset'.
If we lock the iso as 200 in manual mode, I guess it is like a tripod mode, because the camera will adjust the shutter speed to match the iso , and it takes good pics in most circumstances.
A friend recently asked me to take some photos/videos with my OnePlus as he is interested on buying the phone and the camera is an important feature for him.So I went for a ride on the mountain and took some...mixed feelings about the results,it needs Optical Image Stabilization that's for sure...
:/
https://youtu.be/OKShtpl1dyo
Sadly the only way to get good results every time is to use manual mode. For whatever reason auto mode makes the colour very unnatural, and also causes quite a bit of overexposure and grainyness.
I've had half decent low light photos with it simply through using manual mode, only things i leave to auto are shutter speed and focus (unless macro shots, which btw this this is amazing for).
Not a brilliant camera by any means, but any camera is only ever as good as the user.
I loved X-cam on my lg g3. Is there a better camera app for quick Quito mode pictures than the stock g6 one with all it's exciting and sharpening. Pictures look great infill you zoom in at all. I love it for manual mode and timelapse. But not on IG so the square camera is stupid IMO. Just looking for good alt. To the stock one. Camera 360 was decent but even with paid version the UI is awful
I too am looking at 3rd party cameras. But the ones i have are no better and don't do HDR well or panorama well and some are very slow to take a picture. I can't find a camera app to do panoramas well in HD. they're low resolution or stitched all messed up. I gave up on ever doing panoramas with this phone. Every panoramic picture i take is messed up. so much for those reviews on the test units saying it takes flawless panoramas. Also the apps i tried doesn't let me use the wide angle lens either. bummer.
railfan-eric said:
I too am looking at 3rd party cameras. But the ones i have are no better and don't do HDR well or panorama well and some are very slow to take a picture. I can't find a camera app to do panoramas well in HD. they're low resolution or stitched all messed up. I gave up on ever doing panoramas with this phone. Every panoramic picture i take is messed up. so much for those reviews on the test units saying it takes flawless panoramas. Also the apps i tried doesn't let me use the wide angle lens either. bummer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used panorama flawlessly. But IMO with the new wide angle there's almost zero need for panorama unless up close.
lg3FTW said:
I've used panorama flawlessly. But IMO with the new wide angle there's almost zero need for panorama unless up close.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the trees don't get double images in panoramas? Both this phone and the original has this problem.
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
railfan-eric said:
So the trees don't get double images in panoramas? Both this phone and the original has this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never had a issue. I tend to not use the wide lens for panorama though. 2nd pic the road dips a bit that's all. 1st pic is only a 3 part panorama not super huge