Bought a new display and frame to my old note 3 from china.
Problem is that the frame does not have heatpad for the pm8941 power management chip.
There isn't even any metal frame where the pad should be only a hole in the frame.
Look for yourself. On the left is the frame with missing piece. Roughly the shape and size of a sim card slightly left and up from cpu heatpad.
I bet the heatpad for the power management chip is not there just for fun, but how hot does the chip get?
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I got my hands a E970 screen with a cracked digitizer. I hoped to use it to replace my cracked E960 screen,with a cheap 30 buck digitizer. So I carefully checked the pin-outs and it looked good. I then plugged it in and what do you know,worked just fine. So for what its worth,if its useful to anyone else,the LCD screen from an E970 will in fact work in an E960. Unfortunately it didnt work out. The screen,like the nexus 4 display,was glued t the front frame. I tried getting it out and ended up destroying the lcd. However,I did experiment with heating the front and separating it with a molybdenum wire. That part seemed to go smoothly. If anyone else has to do this,heres my best suggestion. Get some sandpaper,perhaps 80 grit and glue it to a board. Then sand the edge,moving parallel to the plane of the screen until you have ground away the frame and exposed the edge of the glass digitizer. Repeat on all four sides. This way you should be able to get to the adhesive under the digitizer without further cracking any glass. Remember,the front of the digitizer is cracked,so the lcd is vulnerable. I would get a piece of window glass and cut it to about the same size as the glass digitizer. Then used adhesive transfer tape to bond it to the front cracked glass.
Keep in mind,Ive not separated one successfully yet,so this is a combination of a report of my experiments and my educated guess on how to proceed in the future. It goes back to a previous attempt I did on a broken LCD. I conjectured that if I were to separate the plastic digitizer from the FRONT glass,I could more easily peel it away from the LCD. SO I took separated about a mm of the digitizer from the front glass. Then I ran a qtip dipped in acetone along the edge. The acetone was drawn into the gap by capilary action. I then waited a few minutes,repeated the acetone dipped qtip procedure,and then carefully slid the corner of the foil coated plastic package of a nicotine patch through the gap. The packet is very very thin,way thinner than a credit card,but very stiff. It easily removed another mm or so of the adhesive,and better still,left a gap,so that your not forcing the display to bend. This went well until I got near the last half inch of a shard of glass,about 1/3 of the way up the display. At that point,I applied a bit of upward force and that shard,about two inches long,with a sharp point,held only by a the last half inch by perhaps 1/3 inch section of adhesive shattered the LCD under the point. The lesson learned is,a cracked digitizer is going to have this lever effect on the shards that crack the lcd with a tiny amount of force due to the combination of the long lever arm and sharp point. So the glass is to hold that all together and keep it from doing the lever thing.
My experience tells me that ,yes,those techniques you see on the internet with the credit card and the heat gun MIGHT work,but your going to need a lot of skill. And that skill is developed by trashing DOZENS of LCDs. And its still not going to be 100%. Probably no more than 50%. My guess is that these were developed by people who repair these for a living. If you do,then you probably have a big box of broken displays. Some only have broken digitizers,some broken LCDs,and you think "If I had a way to reuse some of these parts,I could make a bunch of extra money" so you start with the broken ones,and then when you get something that works,even 50% of the time,you can make 50 bucks or more extra profit per screen you can fix,from parts that were previously worthless junk to you.
But I want something 100%,not for my nexus,but because more and more phones are made like this,and in the future they all will be. So I want to make a procedure that will fix it all the time. So far,I suspect that you have to choose one part to save. Either the frame or the LCD digitizer stack. I may try working around the edge with a plastic tool and heat with a glass bonded to the front and see if I can get the glass free of the frame without destroying the LCD,but Im not optimistic,first Id like a sure fire way to save an LCD.
My feeling is that if you bond the front glass to a ridged substrate,you can then use the sandpaper to grind the edge away. If you do it parallel to the plane of the screen,it should be very gentle on the display,avoiding any damage. Then you can perhaps with the aid of heat,cut the digitizer away from the frame. Im thinking at this point,you need a screen separator.
So Im going to make one. My plan is that I will make a device from plywood. It will have a backing and a part that slides. The part that slides will have a heated piece of aluminum with a thermostat that holds it at 175F and an inductive heating coil behind the aluminum. This "carriage" will slide back and forth,and there will be an guide that will constrain its motion to one axis. The "carriage" will actually be made from two blocks,one that will be in the guide,then a second that bolts to that,using some studs,and washers and wing nuts. Between these two plywood layers,I will uses sheets of paper as shims to adjust the height so that a 0.08mm molybdenum wire (I have 100' of it I got off ebay) is at the right height to separate the screen. The screen will be stuck to the glass with adhesive transfer tape,the edges ground away,then mounted to the separator with adhesive transfer tape,and shimmed to the right height. I can then heat it to temperature (the glue *I* use SHOULD be strong enough to hold it in place,if not,I just buy one of the higher temp adhesives. I can then separate the digitizer from the front glass AND the frame. At that point,the LCD should be free of the frame. Now,if the digitizer is OK,I can simply ,carefully clean the adhesive off of it and repair it using a 12 dollar front glass.
Some people use optically clear adhesive that is uv cured,because its easier to get a bubble free bond without a vacuum oven or autoclave so I will just use an optically clear adhesive transfer tape. I however have access to a vacuum oven at work,so I'm good to go. Even if I did not,I suspect that there are other options. I might try one of those vacuum storage containers they sell at target that go with those "food saver" vacuum packers. (I want one anyway to freeze food in,very handy. Buy 40lbs of chicken breasts when they come on sale for 1.89 a lb and freeze them! Pays for itself in no time) My hope would be that ,perhaps of first heated to say 180F or so,then placed on paper to avoid melting the plastic container ,you and a vacuum pulled,it would remove the bubbles. But I have access to the oven so I don't care much about that.
If not,then I can probably make sure the wire is on the other side of the digitizer and separate it from the lcd instead. Then the same procedure can be used to bond the LCD to a new digitizer/glass assembly. But first I need to find some more broken LCDs to play with. But hopefully my experiences will help others in their quest. The end result of what I have determined though is,Im going to have to make the separator,becuase while its obvious that its POSSIBLE without it,its just not reliable or practical.
So my friend gave me his old sgs5 for free because it is missing the battery and back plate, both of which i ordered off amazon and are arriving later today, i have a question about the amoled panel
the glass of the digitizer is flawless, no cracks to be seen whatsoever and is very smooth and scratch free to the touch; however, inside on what i can assume only to be the amoled panel itself, (unless there is another thin layer of glass between the GG3 and amoled display , which i am not sure of) on the very top right corner and about 1.5-2mm in, there is a small hairline fracture that cuts the corner, also, there is a very small fracture of the same type on the top of the panel about two-thirds of the way to the left that extends roughly 1.5-2ish-mm down the screen, but ends without cutting back to the edge of the screen.
my question is this; When i recieve the battery and back plate today in the mail, will i put it together only to find that i get no video on the amoled at all? or simply black screen except for that tiny cut-off corner on the top right, as from what i can tell that is where the main video ribbon connects?
the phone has been -somewhat- manhandled, as there are a couple fractures in the glass over the camera and some indentations on the plastic chrome ribbon that encompasses the device on the corners from what i can only assume are drops. Otherwise the device looks to be in perfect working order, and i cannot imagine that it has sustained enough impact trauma to actually hurt anyone on the mainboard if the gg3 screen itself is flawless with no blemishes.
thanks for your time, any insight is much appreciated.
-Valkry
Valkry said:
will i put it together only to find that i get no video on the amoled at all?
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There is a big chance of that happening...
I have an S3 mini screen here that is in almost perfect condition, except for a tiny fracture in the AMOLED panel very similar to yours, and the whole display doesn't turn on.
Hello everyone. My note 4 screen has gone loose a bit. It`s not broken or anything, just at one small part the uv glue has loosened up and the display can be pressed on, and you can see it moving down a bit. Is there any way to add glue to that particular spot, or the entire screen has to be lifted up ?
Sold the phone. Apparently the entire screen must be taken apart, and only one guy dares to do it.
Hi there,
my S8 is slightly bent due to a crash with my bike. The screen is shattered, the digitizer and the glass are broken, too.
Now's my question: does the S8 have a separate frame in which the screen/glass-set is placed or is this frame (seen as the aluminum sides on the outside) part of the screen/glass-set which will be replaced by the repair shop?
I'm asking so I'll know if the bend-problem will be fixed with the screen/glass-replacement or if they'll try to charge more for it.
thank you!
ohrenstaebchen said:
Hi there,
my S8 is slightly bent due to a crash with my bike. The screen is shattered, the digitizer and the glass are broken, too.
Now's my question: does the S8 have a separate frame in which the screen/glass-set is placed or is this frame (seen as the aluminum sides on the outside) part of the screen/glass-set which will be replaced by the repair shop?
I'm asking so I'll know if the bend-problem will be fixed with the screen/glass-replacement or if they'll try to charge more for it.
thank you!
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Click to collapse
aluminum frame isn't part of screen dont worry
You can change just the screen, or some screens will come with the frame, but the latter requires you to transfer all of the components. Have a look on ifixit, search Galaxy S8 screen replacement on google and read the ifixit guide:
Use this guide to replace a cracked or broken display on your Samsung Galaxy S8.
Note: This guide instructs you to replace only the display while leaving the original frame, logic board, and battery in place. However, some replacement screens for this phone come pre-installed in a new frame (a.k.a. chassis), which requires a very different procedure—transplanting your phone's internals and installing a new battery. Make sure you have the correct part before starting this guide.
This guide involves removing the rear glass cover, you will need replacement adhesive to reattach the back cover to the phone. If your replacement screen does not come with adhesive, you will need to use tape to secure it as well.
If the frame is damaged or bent, it's important to replace it, or else the new screen may not mount correctly and can suffer damage from uneven pressure.
The process of separating the display from the frame usually destroys the display, so don't follow this guide unless you intend to replace the display.
This may be of very limited use but I believe I'm far from the only one still using this device and the torn speaker membrane is very common.
Prerequisites:
Moto G3 with torn speaker membrane, preferably in need of replacement screen
Donor Moto G3
Standard tools for disassembly (see iFixit etc. for reaching the point where you have the screen removed)
As this requires removing the LCD it's hardly worth doing unless you have a cracked screen that needs replacing. In my case I had a device with various issues, bought another device with a broken screen but otherwise functioning, and simply swapped screens. You can get spares & repairs Moto G3s for very little (<£15/$15).
Ideally your donor screen doesn't have a torn membrane. If it does, as in my case, you can do the following to repair it:
The entire grille/ membrane is stuck to the glass from the inside.
Carefully run a sharp knife underneath the hard silver plastic and lever it out.
The plastic membrane is actually 2 sheets. Use a knife, fingernail, tweezers etc. starting at the edge to peel the first layer away: it is a thin tranparent plastic sheet surrounding the hole. You don't need to worry about removing cleanly, you won't need these any more.
Then do the same on the grey membrane, which is thicker and held on more securely, requiring more force to remove.
Now remove the entire bottom main speaker grille part from the your broken screen (i.e. whichever screen you'll no longer be using)
This simply has some sort of material mesh-like grille which can be peeled off carefully.
Once removed, align the edge of the material with your earpiece speaker piece and stick on. The mesh is longer so you have to trim the end off with scissors.
You now have a new earpiece speaker grille, with a cloth-like membrane like the main speaker grille, rather than the original plastic membrane.
This can now be replaced as the glue should still hold.
Hope this helps somebody despite being a rather convoluted process. Waterproofing not tested yet! And note the battery light is not diffused as before so appears brighter.
Great write up and thanks for taking the time to post
Nice one even I tore but no issues facing on speaker
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!
ceanosri said:
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!
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I could add some pics of the parts if that would help? Didn't think to take pics during the process unfortunately