Hello, I've just received a Joying Head Unit, and would like to 'prepare it' calmly at home.
I would like to plug a computer's power supply to the Head Unit to boot it up, and check it before starting to mess up with the car.
Can anybody point me in some direction as what to plug where? I guess basically I would need to plug the 12V entry and ground, but don't know exactly where...
OK, these are the cables:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I see a red 'thick' cable that is labeled as 'ACC'. That one I guess goes to the 12V.
There is another orange one that has a cilinder labeled as "JY-VWA V01". I guess that could be an aerial fuse. I would connect it to 12V too
Then I miss a black cable to connect to ground (maybe I can connect the power supply black 0V cable to the metallic frame of the Head Unit) but I think maybe there should be a cable to achieve this.
Another question that I have: the 'thick red cable' labeled as VCC is the male of another thick red cable labelled "Note: if install in high configuration car, please disconnect label area connector" (WTF does it mean?)
I guess both red cables should be connected when I connect the unit in the car to the VW harness, but not sure there as I cannot understand what can that label try to say...
Any ideas?
Ok, finally I figured out.
1st, I unplugged the CANBUS module
2nd, I plugged the red male-female VCC cable
3rd, I took from my computer PSU out a yellow line (+12V) and a black line (GND).
4th, I plugged the PSU's yellow line (+12V) to the RED and YELLOW
It's working now...
thanks for posting this, I could never figure it out. Everyone just says "any 12v power source will work", which is true but, leaves out a bunch of steps
CadillacMike said:
thanks for posting this, I could never figure it out. Everyone just says "any 12v power source will work", which is true but, leaves out a bunch of steps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The principal is the same for all head units. You can view this clip that should help you:
Related
I have and igo with the microusb tip and my DI is headed home soon. I was checking stuff out at the store and I got a long lecture about how power ratings can be different. Clearly verizon sales reps are better than electrical engineers. Anyways so the power ratings on the igo happen to be 4-5w, does anyone know what the ratings on the DI stock charger.
Even better if anyones charged their DI using Igo, how is that working out?
My fuze used to run a little hotter than usual on the igo.
The HTC charger that comes with the phone is just a little stub that plugs into the wall with a female usb connector on it to accept the micro usb cable that ships with the phone.
It outputs 5v at 1 amp.
Here's a photo of the charger:
(the part that's obscured by the flash says 50-60Hz)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I have an iGo charger as well and was planning to order a tip for this phone. Is it the A97 tip? The iGo site doesn't have the Incredible in their system yet.
very nice picture, thanks for the detail. the igo is rated at 5 watts so its perfect for this. and yes i think a97 is micro usb, however there are many micro usb tips and all of them work. easiest way to make sure is just carry your phone when u go get the tip. unfortunately i have left my tip in the car so i cant say for 100% but the packaging reads A138 which is another microusb. on monday i get my phone so i can hook it to the car and verify.
Has the A138 been working for you? I ended up getting a few A46 tips instead of the micro USB tips because my local Radioshack had them on clearance for about $2.50 a piece. The micro USB tips were $10.
The A46 is a female USB-A connector so it will work for pretty much anything that uses USB, provided you have the proper USB cable to connect it. I got a few 1.5' micro USB cables from monoprice for that part of it.
I haven't used these enough to notice if it's charging significantly faster/slower than the stock charger, but it seems to work fine. I wish iGo would publish the specs for all the tips (amps, volts, etc) instead of just listing compatible devices.
link
Hey all. I ran across an article awhile back on how to modify a USB cable to fast charge my SGS3 from a 12v USB car charger. I took a USB cable, modified it, and plugged it into a 1A USB wall charger, then connected my USB cable from my Note to the extension cable and it started charging like it does with the huge 3 piece wall charger I got with my n8000. The Note (and my SGS3) are looking for a short on the USB cable to allow it to start charging. The following info is how I did it:
The USB cable extension has 4 wires in it.... Red, Black, White and Green.
Once you open the USB cable extension, cut the white and green wires. (These are the data wires.)
Strip about an inch of insulation off the white and green wires that would be coming from the device side of connection not the charger side.
Twist the white and green wires and secure them with a splice connector/tape. I soldered mine then used electrical tape.
The modified cable also allows you to charge from a 1A (or greater) USB car charger as well. :good:
Modified extension
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
n8000 charging
USB wall charger courtesy of Samsung
By the way...I assume no responsibility for anyone cutting their finger, ruining their carpet after cutting or burning down their house because they forgot to unplug the soldering iron etc.... :silly:
would it load from pc's usb port? it is only 0.5A as far as i know
Haven't tried yet but it just might be slower. Just remember it won't be able to transfer data as you are cutting the data wires. I was able to charge it from my dual USB car charger and I'm not sure if it is 1A but it worked.
Sent from my Wicked SGS3
My daughter's Nexus 7 wouldn't charge.
After trying ALL the tricks found here and elsewhere I bought a new battery for $40.
Replacing the battery gave me the ability to boot the tablet and I discovered that it was not charging anymore : when powered off, the white on black battery sign wouldn't show up and when booted, the small battery icon wouldn't show the lightning sign when plugged in.
I tried all the chargers and usb cables to no avail.
I then tried to power it using the pogo pins and THAT worked. :laugh: I was finally able to charge it but using the pogo pins.
Conclusion : sometimes the internal charging circuits that links the USB power to the battery is dead but another path exists between the pogo pins to the battery.
The best way to solve my problem was then to buy a dock but :
I couldn't find one below $40
My Daughter's cover wouldn't fit into a dock
So I decided to do a small hardware hack to resurect the Nexus 7 : to internally short-circuit the +5V pogo pin to the +5V USB pin.
It took me about 5 mn to do so and it's been working for a week now with no flaw.
Disclaimer :
I do NOT advise you to do this, Do not do this.
If you do, I'm not responsible of any damage you should encounter.
It really is a last chance option, and it only works if you have that (rare!) problem.
You can tell that you have the same problem if the tablet is charging with a dock and not charging with a USB cable.
If this is the case, you'd better buy a charging dock than doing this.
Hardware fix (see disclaimer)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
In the picture above, I just soldered the +5V pogo pin (bottom right when on the screen) to the USB +5V (right one when on the screen) using thin cable.
To do this I first removed the speakers (3 screws). The standard thin wire was preimpregnated with solder paste on both ends and I only briefly (2sec) heated the wire end on the pogo and usb pin to make them catch.
Problem solved.
Hello
I have a Peugeot 508 with start button ignition.
I have bought an android radio:
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9
Kernel: 4.4.167
MCU version: MTCE_MX_V3.41_1
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Android 9
The radio works great, but I have a problem/question. It only works when the engine is running. Right after I stop the engine, screen goes "Shutting down.." is a few seconds and done. The original radio was working even when engine off until the "Economy mode" got activated in 15minutes.
Any idea what needs to be done/set up? Do I need to change anything in the canbus factory settings menu? I already tried to press the power on/off radio button when engine off and didnt work.
Thanks guys!
You should find a way not to break the voltage on the ACC wire as soon as the engine stops.
As a very last chance you might add a manual switch to connect the battery B+ wire to the ACC wire, but it's pretty uncomfortable to have to manually control the head unit power on/off...
You may need to swap the red and yellow cable around. Sometimes cars use a different combo for their acc and 12v feed.
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
Thanks, the unit came with plug and play cables, should I remake the canbus power cable? I mean, measure the volts while inginition off and reconnect somehow?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Measure the red wire and the yellow wire connected to canbus when ignition is completely off. Generally the yellow wire is the 12v feed and red is ACC. So should only show voltage when ignition is switched to ACC. If red is live all the time and yellow is dead with ignition off then you need to switch them around. That should cure your problem.
Be sure that you have a switched live at the head unit end before connecting to head unit.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
I am toying around with an [IP camera](https://denver.eu/products/denver-ioc-221/c-1024/p-4103) and I want to get access to its UART interface (to then hopefully get access to a shell and dump the firmware). After taking it apart, we can see that it consists of two separate PCBs which you can see in the pictures below:
PCB 1 Front
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
PCB 1 Back
PCB 2 Front
PCB 2 Back
Every single open plug you can see there is taken up by a cable, connecting to motors, camera, lights, power supply, between PCBs, etc. At first I was excited because it says "UART" right there on the first circuit board, but what kind of UART interface has 5 pins? I thought it was only RX, TX, VCC and GND?
Furthermore, the multimeter readings I get from those points dont really make sense, at least to me. Can someone help me with this, or point me in the right direction? Apologies if this is somehow trivial, I am pretty new to hardware in general.
I don't understand where you see 5 pins(maybe I'm blind) with "UART" label nearby. "PCB 1 Front" has text "UART2" and the connector is unsoldered containing 2 pins only. One of them is probably TX and 2nd is RX. You don't need to connect +5V from your usb to uart converter, but it is very important to connect GND which you can find anywhere on PCB. For example "UART2" unsoldered connector spot has two big pads for connector support which can be connected to GND. Use multimeter to detain which of those two small pins in "UART2" is RX and which TX. If I remember correctly, RX suppose to give you "jumping" voltage with small values(Uart can be 3.3V for example) and TX suppose to be close to zero V.
OP hasn't been around in a while... Yo, @Maspital ?
PCB 1 doesn't have a lot of brains on it. The ULN2803A is just a driver for the pan/tilt motors.
The Nuvoton is just a small microcontroller
If UART2 belongs to that board it's probably not talking to a real OS, just the µC.
Also, it's hard to see the traces but maybe it's all leading to that 20 pin package that isn't installed.
Maybe it's a level converter or another controller.
You didn't say what non-sensical readings you got.
UARTs can be a 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V or even lower logic levels.
Usually the TX is riding high and the RX is floating without any pullups.