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Repairing/Polishing Bezel and aluminum frame?

Hey guys, I dropped my Note 4 once awhile back and it left a few scratches and dents in the bezel, and some nearly-invisible abrasions on the frame. I used the green scrubby part of a sponge to get the dents and scratches out, but it looks dull on the parts I repaired - any way to get it looking shiny again? And is there any way I could remove the tiny abrasions on my aluminum frame? Thanks guys

Solvol Autosol or an equivalent metal polish.
But go easy and use a test area at the bottom.

Can't replace glass without replacing LCD

Just wanted to inform everyone that despite the fact that you can buy replacement glass for the Priv, without some magic solvent I don't have access to, there is no way to remove the glass from the LCD without breaking it too. So probably don't bother paying for a replacement digitizer if it doesn't include an LCD

Did you use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive or is it literally not possible to separate the glass from the lcd and frame

gonka95 said:
Did you use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive or is it literally not possible to separate the glass from the lcd and frame
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i tried using a heat gun, but due to how it's designed and how thin and fragile this LCD is unless you got some kind of solvent that literally removed the adhesive it's going to break whenever you try to separate them. Luckily i had bought two of them with cracked glass and only destroyed one in this process, and the cracks aren't bad enough to impair the function or visibility of the screen on the one left over. Only problem is i'm using the Verizon model, which can't use LTE band 9 as far as i know, on T-mobile. The thing that bothers me most though is the fact that people DO sell replacement glass for it when you can't only replace that. If anyone feels like they have better skills than i do and wants to prove me wrong, though, i'm rooting for you.

Glass only repair is possible. After 7 hours I did it

DEXEIL said:
Glass only repair is possible. After 7 hours I did it
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Solvent or 7 hours worth of application of heat gun?

Isopropyl alcohol

7hrs?!
DEXEIL said:
Isopropyl alcohol
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Hi there, just wondering how you went about doing this? Did you use heat first and then the alcohol?
Would you be able to provide a few steps? I imagine it would be heat edges, use pry bar/card to loosen glass, insert solvent and repeat. Can I drop solvent directly into craked surface or "holes"?
I watched the youtube tear down and was hoping to avoid all of that.
I bought a glass screen replacement from ebay ~$15.
Presently the glass is cracked, and shattered but the screen works perfectly, and I'm considering just slapping a film on it instead, unless the glass swap is easy?
7hrs?!

mellofellow said:
Hi there, just wondering how you went about doing this? Did you use heat first and then the alcohol?
Would you be able to provide a few steps? I imagine it would be heat edges, use pry bar/card to loosen glass, insert solvent and repeat. Can I drop solvent directly into craked surface or "holes"?
I watched the youtube tear down and was hoping to avoid all of that.
I bought a glass screen replacement from ebay ~$15.
Presently the glass is cracked, and shattered but the screen works perfectly, and I'm considering just slapping a film on it instead, unless the glass swap is easy?
7hrs?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never used heat, just remove glass with a thin card and alcohol, then remove piece of plastic BUT make sure LCD be attached to frame I used tape, see pics

Thank you! I will give this a try

Update
This is NOT worth it! And 7 hours sounds about right!
I can verify no heat is needed, simply pick at the broken shards till there's exposed LCD. Drop in isopropyl alcohol and keep picking. use goggles as broken pieces flew up at my eyes and across the room. Do it in the garage! Wipe off excess with gauze. After 2 hours I got through maybe a 1/4 of the screen. I then made the mistake of taking the digitizer with LCD assembly off to slide a card under the cracked glass edges. It really sped things up, but ended up damaging the LCD (purple lines) permanently. Basically once it's disassembled, the piece is actually quite flimsy and bends too much beyond what the LCD can take.
In short, no way this is worth it.

DEXEIL said:
Never used heat, just remove glass with a thin card and alcohol, then remove piece of plastic BUT make sure LCD be attached to frame I used tape, see pics
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what the hell ... how is the glass digitizer all curled up like a paper ?

[GUIDE] Rear glass replacement

So recently I cracked the rear glass on my Pixel 2 XL. After searching around, I found the "official"repair places wanted around $80 to replace this. Then I found eBay had replacement glass for $13 (in the US, cheaper from China), and decided to give it a try. Figured worse case scenario I end up at the repair place getting the glass replaced anyway, and I'm out $13 extra.
This was not a difficult process necessarily, what I will say is that the glass used is extremely thin (stock and aftermarket), and the process of removing the old glass is likely to produce many tiny glass fragments.
Here's how I did it, if anyone is interested in giving this a try:
1. Mis en place. I used a couple plastic and nylon spudgers, guitar picks, one metal spudger, a hair dryer, and packing tape. I did this repair in the bathroom near the sink so I could easily brush small glass pieces into the sink and wash them down the drain.
2. Start off by heating up the rear glass with the hair dryer, but not too hot. You need to be able to hold the phone afterall. Take a piece of packing tape and place it over the rear glass to somewhat keep it together.
3. I used the thin metal spudger to get started on one side of the glass. I started on the broken side as I already had a gap there to work with. Slowly go around and remove the glass and double sided tape from the rear frame.
3. Remove the camera lens cover from the glass. It's attached to the glass with double sided tape. Most likely going to be small chunks of glass stuck to the front of the lens assembly.
4. Clean up any leftover glue/double sided tape and chunks of glass, so you have a nice clean surface to stick the new glass to.
5. Install the lens cover on the replacement glass, and clean the inside and outside of the lens cover and inspect the camera assembly itself for chunks of glass/dust/etc.
6. Install the new glass (with lens cover now attached) to the back of your Pixel 2 XL. Be very careful to line it up exactly where you want it to sit before dropping it onto the frame of the phone (you likely will not be able to peel it off and reapply it if you mess up, as the glass is very thin and would probably shatter if you try to remove it).
7. Profit.
That's about it. All in all this took me about 30 minutes from start to finish, and saved me just over $60. Worth it for a cheapskate like me ?
Hope this helps someone.

Excellent write up, and the great photos!
Thanks for posting

Superusefull!! Thank so much!

do you feel like this compromised the water resistance part of the phone?

im pretty sure the waterproof feature is gone

jyn1989 said:
im pretty sure the waterproof feature is gone
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It has never been waterproof.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Hello everyone,
I've broken lil bit the glass and considering replacement. But don't want to lose waterprofness. What do you think about this statement:
"The glass back of the Pixel 2 is purely decorative, and the Pixel 2 will still be waterproof with a broken glass back.
Why? As can be seen in the teardown video at https://youtu.be/Zq7nyzldgr4 at 4:14, the back cover of the Pixel 2 goes underneath the glass. Also, it looks like replacing the glass back would not require a teardown, since there seem to be no screws holding the glass in place from the inside. I suspect the glass back is merely glued on or clipped in."
For me it sounds reasonable that waterprofness might still be there after replacement. Attaching screenshot of mentioned back cover which is going under the glass.
Thanks for your opinion!

Pixel 2 is waterproof
Pixel 2 is IP67 rated meaning it's good for up to a metre depth of water, hence it being waterproof but if anyone was wondering even if you do break the back glass as I have it's purely cosmetic as there is some pretty strong plastic and glue behind it keeping the waterproof feature in place

How do you fix it to be waterproof like factory?
|Use waterproof glue around camera lens and LED lens or is there a adhesive to buy?

buying a g6 with broken camera glass...

Getting it for 200aud..
Can replace the glass piece for about 10 off eBay.
My question is how tight that area is in general in terms of the ip68 rating, consisting that the "glass" is just an adhesive. I.e. is the rating still intact

jewnersey said:
Getting it for 200aud..
Can replace the glass piece for about 10 off eBay.
My question is how tight that area is in general in terms of the ip68 rating, consisting that the "glass" is just an adhesive. I.e. is the rating still intact
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Click to collapse
if you only replace the glass from the camera and if you replace it with the ORIGINAL part, then you will have the IP rating the same way, BUT...if you buy cheap glass with cheap adhesive...i didnt know how it takes the IP at same level, and how long it will take to lose the glue and maybe crack again.
Better safe than sorrow...
see this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qfQ1TH_KBs

It's very tight. I bought one for a 3rd the price of new the glue was discolored, but the glass was otherwise ok.
Love Jerry's Videos. But he'd already removed that lens, and had an appropriate crack to help leverage up a piece of the glass. I couldn't even get a scalpel blade under the edge let alone a box cutter, I'm quite dexterous. Before I replaced mine I watched someone jam a spudger down there to get it out. Maybe my spudger wasn't thin enough but I could see the main back glass flexing while I did it so I tried something different..
I realize yours is pre-cracked, but just detailing everything I did.
What worked for me:
1) apply just enough force between the lens and the edge, you want a crack to extend outward to the edge, but avoid having dust near the actual camera lens. Saw a video of someone puncturing a hole right where the camera lens is - not smart if you like clear pictures.
2) clean all dust now!
3) take out a shard from the edge with tweezers being careful to not puncture the tape on the under side
4) heat lens then apply a cut and shaped piece of tape on top of the lens to hold in any dust when you peel.
5) place tweezers into the edge in the hole you made where the shard was, try not to put pressure on the back glass - mine was surprisingly tough, ymmv.
6) peel the edge of the under tape slowly upward try not to bend much or the glass will make a ton of dust.
7) vacuum and use compressed air around the opening.
Hope that helps.

Thanks for the comments. New glass arrives tomorrow so I'll be going through the process then. Seems pretty straightforward, but yes, probably will avoid submerging it etc just to be safe.
As far as cleaning the lens, I will use acetone (cotton balls) and compressed air. Good?

No acetone, just alcool

Just an FYI: Thin solvent liquids like alcohol will seep in the gap between the lens cover and the glass back and onto the sticky reflective tape discoloring it. I've seen it a bunch of times with the G6, the effect is worse with replacement lens covers as there isn't any adhesive on the edge.
If I was to redo this job, I'd consider using some B-7000 applied with a tiny brush around the thin edge of the lens cover to seal it. Once dry I wouldn't be concerned about cleaning with alcohol. Maybe depends how obsessive you are lol.
As always YMMV, hope the replacement goes well.
Pic shows discoloration around the edge.
https://i.imgur.com/6JB3uuc.jpg

What adhesive or glue should I buy to repair the split between the lcd and the rest of the digitizer frame?

I noticed a white light on one side of the screen wjile I was using it. It was leaking from the back of the lcd. There is nothing wrong while using it so far.

Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!

blackhawk said:
Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are some pictures of how the glass/digitizer/lcd panel is separating from the rest of the frame. Based on iFixit, it would be best to use double sided tape.

Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.

blackhawk said:
Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.
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Click to collapse
It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.

andruyd said:
It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.
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Check frame rail with a straight edge to see if bent. That can cause an adhesive failure.