Anyone else notice this? I took some pictures comparing my iPad Mini (left) vs Nexus 7 2013 (right). The first attachment is from YouTube F4bnVZmdOKs @ 5:31 - notice the splotchiness in the darkest areas. The second is from G-R8LGy-OVs @ 3:56 - notice the halos around the stars. When I watch on my computer (HP LP2065 IPS LCD) it looks much more like the iPad's display.
Looks like video compression blockiness that you don't see on the iPad because of the horrible black levels. If you look at a black still picture do you see the splotches?
Dimethyl said:
Anyone else notice this? I took some pictures comparing my iPad Mini (left) vs Nexus 7 2013 (right). The first attachment is from YouTube F4bnVZmdOKs @ 5:31 - notice the splotchiness in the darkest areas. The second is from G-R8LGy-OVs @ 3:56 - notice the halos around the stars. When I watch on my computer (HP LP2065 IPS LCD) it looks much more like the iPad's display.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with the above poster, the splotchiness is video compression artifacts, and if you look past them, and take a step back, you'll actually see that you're getting much more detail and a better gamma on the N7 vs. the iPad. On the iPad side, the woman is completely black, yet on the N7, you can see her face and clothing detail that are simply missing on the iPad.
I would guess that the halos around the stars are similarly missing information on the iPad. With the N7, you're getting the whole picture.
That ipad mini picture is terrible. Talk about crushing blacks. ..... Look at the detail in the nexus picture. I hope your TV is not calibrated like the mini.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda app-developers app
I think its due to the high DPI. Try any HD video.
Actually the iPad Mini is quite terrible with the loss of dark details.
oh god that ipad looks awful dude.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
there's probably a video player out there that supports gamma adjustment if it's not to your liking.in a specific video. it's hard to tell from that picture how black crushing the ipad is but some would find it looks "better" when the video is of poor quality. one thing you might want to do is adjust the backlight first (no need to do it global if you've got something like mx player) as the new N7 is supposed to be very bright. in the old n7 you can get away with making mx player always use max brightness because the maximum brightness isn't very high.
Good points. I attached a comparison of the black level test from Lagom. On the Nexus 7 I can see the 1 square easily. On the iPad Mini I can see the 5 square fairly well and the 4 just barely (IRL; hard to tell from the picture). The brightness setting for this and the previous comparisons was 25% on the Nexus 7 and around 55-60% on the iPad Mini. The subjective brightness was similar.
I borrowed an iPad 3 (Retina) to do some more testing. This time to eliminate any variables with video streaming I downloaded the 720P MP4s on my computer and captured stills with VLC. I used Chrome on both Android and iOS to view the images. Same videos as before, roughly the same scenes. The first 2 attachments show the comparisons: iPad 3 on the top, and Nexus 7 2013 on the bottom.
The 3rd attachment is the black level test on the iPad 3. I can clearly see square 2 and if I stare enough I can faintly detect square 1 (IRL; hard to tell from the picture again). The 4th attachment is a comparison of a full white image to show that the brightness is matched fairly closely (easier to tell if you convert to greyscale to ignore white balance differences) - 25% on the Nexus and just a hair above 50% on the iPad.
The 5th and 6th attachments are the source images I used for testing. I converted from PNG to JPG to make the attachments fit, not that it matters much since it's from a lossy source.
I still get the feeling that something isn't right about the way the Nexus looks. I was able to simulate the effect almost identically by applying gamma correction of 1.6 in IrfanView. That would seem to indicate that the Nexus's gamma may be way off, but after I finally found a way to view Lagom's gamma test image without scaling on the Nexus it looked pretty much spot-on correct. It it possible that only the very dark areas are "shifted" in a way that wouldn't affect the gamma test image?
This leads to the last attachment - a new black level test on the Nexus. Again, the brightness was calibrated similarly to the iPad, and the camera was set on full manual mode with all the same settings, so you can directly compare it to the iPad black level test image. Notice how the squares get brighter way faster than on the iPad? It's a lot more pronounced in the darkest squares, but the difference shrinks by the time you get up to the 40 square (last one before full white).
For my final test, I took pictures of Lagom's contrast test image on the Nexus 7 2013 and iPad 3. I then applied a Gaussian blur, converted to greyscale, and determined the RGB value for the first 13 bars. The first attachment is a chart of the results. The brightnesses converge around the 10th bar (RGB = 79 in the source image), but before that the Nexus's brightness is inflated. This explains why the gamma test looked fine, because even in the 10% luminance test, the RGB value of the ideal point is 88. The 2nd and 3rd attachments are the Nexus and iPad (respectively) displaying the test image.
you should bring all this to the "yellow tint" thread. this is a nice showcase on what's wrong with Nexus screen.
I recently purchased an X-Rite i1Display Pro display calibrator. I used it to make really accurate luminance measurements* of the Nexus 7 (2013) and iPad Mini while displaying shades of gray from 0 to 255 in steps of 5. I then calculated the effective gamma** at each step to create the attached chart. It also includes the effective gamma of the reverse sRGB transformation.
My conclusion is that the Nexus is fine if sRGB is the ideal target. I'm not sure what the ideal target is though; in fact, I don't really think there is one. A display gamma calibration of 2.2 to 2.4 seems like the most common recommendation. But almost everyone ignores the fact that sRGB's effective gamma is a lot lower in darker areas. I get the feeling that most people calibrate to a fixed target. sRGB is probably more technically correct. But if fixed 2.2 to 2.4 is more common, does that make it a de facto standard? E.g. if professional movie studios edit their movies on monitors calibrated to fixed gamma, but I watch it with sRGB gamma, doesn't that mean I'm not viewing it as intended by the creator? I'm not saying this is necessarily the case. I'm really, really confused .
So anyway, I just wanted to share my results. You will have to draw your own conclusions.
* I used spotread.exe from Argyll with the -x swtich. The first number from the "Yxy" result is luminance in cd/m^2.
** Effective gamma meaning: the gamma value you'd have to use to get the same luminance value from the input value. Formula is log(luminance) / log(input), where luminance and input are percentages from 0 to 1. I adjusted the luminances to account for non-perfect black levels.
mannequin said:
you should bring all this to the "yellow tint" thread. this is a nice showcase on what's wrong with Nexus screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would say the iPad is just warmer (red) and the N7 looks more cooler (greenish-blue) Not by much though, just a few degrees off. No one device is perfect.
With the dark areas, it seems the brightness and/or gamma is too high. I use my screen at half brightness which seems on par with other devices and haven't noticed a big difference.
Hopefully we get a screen calibrator like on the N4 and can make adjust individual adjustments.
Sent from Nexus 7 FHD from XDA Premium HD
Dimethyl said:
My conclusion is that the Nexus is fine if sRGB is the ideal target...
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Click to collapse
all the measurements that you did are only true to the device that you own. the screens in the wild would differ (sometimes drastically) from yours and from one another.
I totally agree with you. I also see lots of artifacts with any dark scene on my 2013 Nexus 7. It doesn't matter if I am playing a higher resolution (HD) scene or lower resolution one. I wish there was a way to fix that.
Dimethyl said:
I recently purchased an X-Rite i1Display Pro display calibrator. I used it to make really accurate luminance measurements* of the Nexus 7 (2013) and iPad Mini while displaying shades of gray from 0 to 255 in steps of 5. I then calculated the effective gamma** at each step to create the attached chart. It also includes the effective gamma of the reverse sRGB transformation.
My conclusion is that the Nexus is fine if sRGB is the ideal target. I'm not sure what the ideal target is though; in fact, I don't really think there is one. A display gamma calibration of 2.2 to 2.4 seems like the most common recommendation. But almost everyone ignores the fact that sRGB's effective gamma is a lot lower in darker areas. I get the feeling that most people calibrate to a fixed target. sRGB is probably more technically correct. But if fixed 2.2 to 2.4 is more common, does that make it a de facto standard? E.g. if professional movie studios edit their movies on monitors calibrated to fixed gamma, but I watch it with sRGB gamma, doesn't that mean I'm not viewing it as intended by the creator? I'm not saying this is necessarily the case. I'm really, really confused .
So anyway, I just wanted to share my results. You will have to draw your own conclusions.
* I used spotread.exe from Argyll with the -x swtich. The first number from the "Yxy" result is luminance in cd/m^2.
** Effective gamma meaning: the gamma value you'd have to use to get the same luminance value from the input value. Formula is log(luminance) / log(input), where luminance and input are percentages from 0 to 1. I adjusted the luminances to account for non-perfect black levels.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow....I just look at my screen. It looks nice.
Not sure WTF all that shizz you posted is about. 250 device = 250 device. /shrug
Mine's right about fine xD .
I wonder if the shield can, through a custom kernel, adjust rgb, gamma, or color calibration. similar to a nexus 6p with a custom kernel like franco or elementalx i can adjust to a much cooler screen similar to the galaxy series.
Also I saw in the shields display settings there is a dynamic range setting which i changed to full and the screen seemed to have dramatically changed. the darks seemed much darker. i dont have an hdr tv but a sony bravia about 2 yo so i didnt think it was actually hdr but only the output from the shield.
dontbeweakvato said:
I wonder if the shield can, through a custom kernel, adjust rgb, gamma, or color calibration. similar to a nexus 6p with a custom kernel like franco or elementalx i can adjust to a much cooler screen similar to the galaxy series.
Also I saw in the shields display settings there is a dynamic range setting which i changed to full and the screen seemed to have dramatically changed. the darks seemed much darker. i dont have an hdr tv but a sony bravia about 2 yo so i didnt think it was actually hdr but only the output from the shield.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
full vs limited is in the range that the device will output colors to the screen. with limited the normal range of 0-255 values per color is limited to 16-235. (256 values per color ^3 equals 16,7million colors (3 colors: RGB)
most particularly (older) tv's won't process the full amount of 16,7m colors, in comparison to monitors which almost always do. Reason why is probably cost, to make them cheap, and to save bandwidth. So they compressed the output, losing some of the detail in between (more like MP3 in comparison to using 160kbps vs 320kbps mp3's, most people won;t notice the difference, but it is there unconsciously)
Anyway. by compressing the range, the tv then stretches these out so that those values become the new white and black. Else everything would look greyish and faded. But now you have less detail because you miss some information, because some of the gradient is missing.
Your TV is set up to the limited range, so that it stretches those to be the new black and white. But when you switch the incoming signal to the full 256 range, the tv will still stretch these as if they were the limited range, and it basically cuts off black and white information, making everything higher contrast but losing a lot of information because it's cut off. And then you'll have to set your TV to full as well, but that's not always possible. Because most tv's can't process more color information.
That's why HDR is such a big improvement, more color information, more visible dark and bright gradients and the overall brightness contrast is wider.
But I think in your case by setting it to full you will get the feeling of more contrast, but essentially you are cutting off a bunch of information. You'll probably notice in dark scenes that you can't see much, because it's clipped out.
If this makes sense to you. (I may have made some mistakes explaining this)
Regarding calibration, you should calibrate your tv in stead. There's no use in calibrating your shield. That's only necessary if you can't control your screen, which TV's can, but phones can't. So mess around with your tv color settings.
So here comes a long post, sorry upfront
Being a professional (fashion) photographer, and personally a true lover of good photos and all that entails photo quality, the main thing I look for in a smartphone is the best possible camera. So after some reviews I decided to get the new Samsung S10+.
And I am not happy at all.
Problems:
1. There are only «natural» and «vivid» modes for the screen «calibration». Natural shows really flat tones and saturation, and vivid (with all the other adjustments) can't get anywhere close to render tones appropriately. It washes out all the highlights to blend them with those a bit darker - no depth; some colors pop out intensely (strong reds for example) while others don't match.
Along with that neither of the two modes helps to get the dark tones shown as dark as they really are, the shadows are always too bright, which adds to the washed out look of photos/low contrast.
This alone made me want to return it, until I figured out a way to make it better - by leaving it on Vivid, and turning on blue light filter on 0 - 15% opacity. Not sure why from the blue light filter, but the colors and white balance are all much more true this way than on either natural on vivid, and the contrast is better a bit, so I suggest you try it out
2. Software in the camera has an inexcusable bug (at least I hope it's a bug and it will be fixed with an update soon):
HDR is not selected, I take a photo, immediately go open it, get a spinning circle on the lower part of the screen for maybe a second, and the photo shifts in front of my eyes to an HDR kind of photo.. washes out all the highlights, pumps and fades the shadows, leaving really noticeable blotchy artifacts where there were shadows (being a professional photographer I spot that immediately, so maybe some of you haven't payed attention, but I promise you there are blotchy artifacts in brightened shadows on any S10+ camera). Obviously it does that via software in the second after the photo was taken, so you can notice it only if you open the photo from the camera app immediately after it was taken. If you continue shooting the same scene (same light), for the next immediate shot you won't see it changing, so it obviously remembers some «settings» it applies. Just mentioning this if you go try out, you can see that shift best while changing the scenes you take photos of (brighter, darker, etc).
SO - S10+ takes HDR photos, or makes HDR processing to photos, when HDR is not turned on!
And it does a lousy job at it, because the photos in general look really washed out - the are no whites, no blacks, no contrast or depth. They obviously look better on my calibrated desktop screen, because as I mentioned before, the screen on S10+ lacks in contrast of the shadows as well as in the photos, so putting those together - all the photos on S10+ screen look dull and without contrast. Other issue is that most of the times when I tried photographing the same scene with HDR on and HDR off, photos looked the same, and in some cases with HDR on it would do just a stronger HDR. Please, please, does anyone have any idea how to stop it from processing photos taken without HDR to make them look like I actually wanted that dullness?
P.s. today I did a test with Note9 and S9+, neither have that problem.
3. This is not just Samsung's problem, at least I know Huawei Mate 20Pro has the same problem - photo effects inside the camera and extra ones that you can get are so outdated that they are unusable. In today's world driven by instagram and all the apps for color «filters» (VSCO, Snapseed, etc), these on Samsung are prehistoric. I tried to find a way to make my own and load them somehow, but can't find a way. Any ideas?
4. Same scene photographed with S10+ is 3mb, and with my older Samsung S7 it's 4mb. How can that be? Why isn't there no more a setting in the camera app to choose resolution?
Looking forward to your thoughts! I love everything else about this phone, but can't stand those HDR photos from the get go, would hate to go return it just because of it..
Go to Camera, settings, save options, check if you have "HEIF pictures" enabled.
This is the same format iPhones use now if i'm not mistaken. This format saves the pictures in half size as compared to JPEG.
Unselect it and test new pictures if it improves to your picture taste.
Another option is to use GCAM (Google Camera) app. This app is directly from Google for the Pixel phones converted to use in our Galaxy S10 phones. You can get them here in XDA
HEIF pictures are not enabled.
I tried to find GCAM mod for Exynos S10+, but can't find one.. since you mentioned it, do you maybe know of one somewhere? Not sure if I'm missing something, new to XDA..
Thanks!
jbalic said:
So here comes a long post, sorry upfront
Being a professional (fashion) photographer, and personally a true lover of good photos and all that entails photo quality, the main thing I look for in a smartphone is the best possible camera. So after some reviews I decided to get the new Samsung S10+.
And I am not happy at all.
Problems:
1. There are only «natural» and «vivid» modes for the screen «calibration». Natural shows really flat tones and saturation, and vivid (with all the other adjustments) can't get anywhere close to render tones appropriately. It washes out all the highlights to blend them with those a bit darker - no depth; some colors pop out intensely (strong reds for example) while others don't match.
Along with that neither of the two modes helps to get the dark tones shown as dark as they really are, the shadows are always too bright, which adds to the washed out look of photos/low contrast.
This alone made me want to return it, until I figured out a way to make it better - by leaving it on Vivid, and turning on blue light filter on 0 - 15% opacity. Not sure why from the blue light filter, but the colors and white balance are all much more true this way than on either natural on vivid, and the contrast is better a bit, so I suggest you try it out
2. Software in the camera has an inexcusable bug (at least I hope it's a bug and it will be fixed with an update soon):
HDR is not selected, I take a photo, immediately go open it, get a spinning circle on the lower part of the screen for maybe a second, and the photo shifts in front of my eyes to an HDR kind of photo.. washes out all the highlights, pumps and fades the shadows, leaving really noticeable blotchy artifacts where there were shadows (being a professional photographer I spot that immediately, so maybe some of you haven't payed attention, but I promise you there are blotchy artifacts in brightened shadows on any S10+ camera). Obviously it does that via software in the second after the photo was taken, so you can notice it only if you open the photo from the camera app immediately after it was taken. If you continue shooting the same scene (same light), for the next immediate shot you won't see it changing, so it obviously remembers some «settings» it applies. Just mentioning this if you go try out, you can see that shift best while changing the scenes you take photos of (brighter, darker, etc).
SO - S10+ takes HDR photos, or makes HDR processing to photos, when HDR is not turned on!
And it does a lousy job at it, because the photos in general look really washed out - the are no whites, no blacks, no contrast or depth. They obviously look better on my calibrated desktop screen, because as I mentioned before, the screen on S10+ lacks in contrast of the shadows as well as in the photos, so putting those together - all the photos on S10+ screen look dull and without contrast. Other issue is that most of the times when I tried photographing the same scene with HDR on and HDR off, photos looked the same, and in some cases with HDR on it would do just a stronger HDR. Please, please, does anyone have any idea how to stop it from processing photos taken without HDR to make them look like I actually wanted that dullness?
P.s. today I did a test with Note9 and S9+, neither have that problem.
3. This is not just Samsung's problem, at least I know Huawei Mate 20Pro has the same problem - photo effects inside the camera and extra ones that you can get are so outdated that they are unusable. In today's world driven by instagram and all the apps for color «filters» (VSCO, Snapseed, etc), these on Samsung are prehistoric. I tried to find a way to make my own and load them somehow, but can't find a way. Any ideas?
4. Same scene photographed with S10+ is 3mb, and with my older Samsung S7 it's 4mb. How can that be? Why isn't there no more a setting in the camera app to choose resolution?
Looking forward to your thoughts! I love everything else about this phone, but can't stand those HDR photos from the get go, would hate to go return it just because of it..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
best camera phone?
Pixel3
Mate20Pro
Yes, I have a S10.
Its the second one, the first was so bad with the screen and with the camera.
Se Second one is good in camera and very good in the screen.
But it not compares with my Mate20Pro in the camera.
Well, Pixel3 and Mate20Pro were definitely top choices along with S10+, shades decided.. I have a week left to return it and go for either of these two if I don't find a way to resolve this, or decide to play lottery by waiting on a software upgrade which would fix it. And that doesn't seem like a good idea..
What was wrong with the screen and camera of your first S10? Mine feels very wrong, my first instinct was to go exchange it, but then I tried out others in different stores and got the same thing with them concerning screen and camera :/ stunned it could be this awful.
jbalic said:
Well, Pixel3 and Mate20Pro were definitely top choices along with S10+, shades decided.. I have a week left to return it and go for either of these two if I don't find a way to resolve this, or decide to play lottery by waiting on a software upgrade which would fix it. And that doesn't seem like a good idea..
What was wrong with the screen and camera of your first S10? Mine feels very wrong, my first instinct was to go exchange it, but then I tried out others in different stores and got the same thing with them concerning screen and camera :/ stunned it could be this awful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my first S10 was updated and the camera was very bad.
The screen was dull, with low brightness comparing with my Mate20Pro.
This one didn't update an the camera is soo much good but the detail that my Mate20Pro captures its insane.
And the screen its top notch!
I think I will not update the software... for now..
For me, its a display problem. I looked at this photo comparing the XS and the S10 https:// photos5.appleinsider.com/gallery/30033-48976-iPhone-XS-Max-and-Samsung-Galaxy-S10-Plus-Human-Portrait-mode-l.jpg and compared it side to side from my s10 to my macbook and on the S10 its pale, like the guy is dead. What's the problem with the display?? I shouldnt have to activate color adjustment, no ?
Color Washed
Just a heads up to everyone who has the S10. The color saturation of the screen even when Vivid is enabled doesn't display the saturation correctly... To fix this "enable blue light filter" and set it at the lowest possible then go back and look at a picture you will see how it is no longer washed out. I assume they are going to fix this in a future update. Cheers ?
---------- Post added at 01:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:44 AM ----------
XDromeda said:
For me, its a display problem. I looked at this photo comparing the XS and the S10 https:// photos5.appleinsider.com/gallery/30033-48976-iPhone-XS-Max-and-Samsung-Galaxy-S10-Plus-Human-Portrait-mode-l.jpg and compared it side to side from my s10 to my macbook and on the S10 its pale, like the guy is dead. What's the problem with the display?? I shouldnt have to activate color adjustment, no ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn on Blue Light Filter and set the effect to minimum. This will correct the "dull" look and restore the full color saturation
jbalic said:
Well, Pixel3 and Mate20Pro were definitely top choices along with S10+, shades decided.. I have a week left to return it and go for either of these two if I don't find a way to resolve this, or decide to play lottery by waiting on a software upgrade which would fix it. And that doesn't seem like a good idea..
What was wrong with the screen and camera of your first S10? Mine feels very wrong, my first instinct was to go exchange it, but then I tried out others in different stores and got the same thing with them concerning screen and camera :/ stunned it could be this awful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn on Blue light filter and set the effect to minimum, then go and check the color saturation ? I'm sure they will be fixing this in a future update.
dmdelgado said:
Turn on Blue light filter and set the effect to minimum, then go and check the color saturation I'm sure they will be fixing this in a future update.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wrote in my original post that the best you can get out of this screen is by turning on blue light at minimum; managed to find that, helps at least 80%. But the camera HDR shadowless dimensionless photos - worst software processing of any Samsung phone up to date. I have 5 days to return it for full amount, so I'll do that, don't want to take chances on waiting for that update if it even comes.. Then I'll just wait a bit for either them to fix it and I buy it again (I am only sad to leave the superior battery and wide angle camera, that's it) or wait for a new Huawei or Pixel to see what they're up to.
dmdelgado said:
Turn on Blue light filter and set the effect to minimum, then go and check the color saturation I'm sure they will be fixing this in a future update.
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Click to collapse
Thank you so much!!! You made my day guys!
Professional photographer yet you don't know about HEIF?
As a professional fashion photographer you should also know that you shouldn't rely on what the picture looks like on the display because many different factors come into play. Some displays and brighter than others just like some are for saturated. As long as you know that you're lighting and exposure is correct you should be fine.
On another note you can also save a raw file of the image.
-Alan said:
As a professional fashion photographer you should also know that you shouldn't rely on what the picture looks like on the display because many different factors come into play. Some displays and brighter than others just like some are for saturated. As long as you know that you're lighting and exposure is correct you should be fine.
On another note you can also save a raw file of the image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Corv0 said:
Professional photographer yet you don't know about HEIF?
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@Corv0:
how can HEIF help me with lousy color and luminosity rendering (screen problem) and bad software processing (camera problem)?
@-Alan: maybe you should read my first post again? I already wrote that the screen on S10+ is poorly calibrated (no really dark tones = bad contrast, color shift, natural and vivid modes are both awful, blue light filter on low opacity saves it mostly, still not good enough compared to most other phone screens I used); and that photos look a bit better contrast wise on my calibrated desktop screen. That doesn't make it ok if I use a lousy screen on my phone all the time and look at photos on it which are miles away from saying "yeah, I know amoled phone screen can't be anywhere close to my Eizo but it's good enough for a phone".
There will always be compromises, but this is too big of a compromise if everything looks awful on the screen of a phone I use extensively every day.
That goes for the screen, and then there is the added problem of bad processing of photos from the camera, which I can't counteract on except shooting everything raw. So when you mention being ok with knowing the exposure is ok - for everyday use of phone camera I will never shoot anything in RAW because that would require spending extra hours and hours to postprocess everything on my own to usable jpegs, which is not why raw is there in phones in the first place. Camera in a phone like this should give you good enough starting point of their jpeg processing so you don't need to do it on your own to make it look ok for everyday stuff. This one doesn't. And if it forces users to shoot everything in RAW to make it look ok, that's a huge fail. On any professional SLR camera you will shoot RAW when it's important or desired to get the look of a jpeg better than the one the camera processes, but you can rely on mostly any SLR camera to give you a decent jpeg if your exposure is ok (shutter speed, aperture, WB, focus, ISO). S10+ simply does not produce a good enough jpeg to start with when the exposure is ok, because it processes that jpeg as a lousy HDR when HDR is off, and by lousy I mean shadowless, flat, wihout any depth and dimension. That is not my problem while taking photos (exposure wise), it's a software problem.
Well then either wait for updates or change phone Mr Photographer, I personally dont agree with you at any point so I can't provide any help either.
Corv0 said:
Well then either wait for updates or change phone Mr Photographer, I personally dont agree with you at any point so I can't provide any help either.
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Click to collapse
Lousy puns with no merit, but ok. Still didn't get a reply from you - how does HEIF help anything I outlined as issues on this phone? This MRS Photographer doesn't know so I'd be happy if you could enlighten me? Thanks.
jbalic said:
Lousy puns with no merit, but ok. Still didn't get a reply from you - how does HEIF help anything I outlined as issues on this phone? This MRS Photographer doesn't know so I'd be happy if you could enlighten me? Thanks.
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Click to collapse
I never said HEIF is supposed to help anything.
jbalic said:
4. Same scene photographed with S10+ is 3mb, and with my older Samsung S7 it's 4mb. How can that be? Why isn't there no more a setting in the camera app to choose resolution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just pointing out how this stupid question contradicts the rest of your boasting around, you should have studied that in your course.
But yes, you can change resolution by changing aspect ratio in the main interface, there's absolutely no other reason to provide multiple resolutions besides for ratio testing, if you are so worried about size you can digitally reduce the resolution in the post-processing phase.
*edited to remove accidental double post
Corv0 said:
I never said HEIF is supposed to help anything.
Just pointing out how this stupid question contradicts the rest of your boasting around, you should have studied that in your course.
But yes, you can change resolution by changing aspect ratio in the main interface, there's absolutely no other reason to provide multiple resolutions besides for ratio testing, if you are so worried about size you can digitally reduce the resolution in the post-processing phase.
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Click to collapse
You are really trolling me here.. first you write "Professional photographer yet you don't know about HEIF?", than I ask what you meant by that since I never mentioned HEIF anywhere, besides answering a question of another poster if it was turned on maybe, and the answer was no. HEIF has no influence on any problem I wrote of. Trolling.
As for the resolution, it hardly underestimates my profession or knowledge, which, I assure you is vast on matters like this. Older Samsung phones had a choice between two resolutions for the same aspect ratio (for example 4:3 in Samsung S7 you can choose 12M, or 6.2M; for 16:9 9.1M or 3.7M etc.). On S10+ there is only one resolution for 4:3 or any ratio, and its low.
So I still see no merit to your undermining my knowledge in what I do professionally, except to troll or just be rude.
jbalic said:
You are really trolling me here.. first you write "Professional photographer yet you don't know about HEIF?", than I ask what you meant by that since I never mentioned HEIF anywhere, besides answering a question of another poster if it was turned on maybe, and the answer was no. HEIF has no influence on any problem I wrote of. Trolling.
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Boy, HEIF is why files of the same resolution and scene occupy less space, other users already explained that, you need to engage a few more brain cells before calling trolls.
No need to be hostile because you failed to prove yourself, move on with your life.